REPLACING D LINK COUPLINGS IN SECONDS at Chadwick Model Railway | 196.
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- Опубликовано: 29 июн 2023
- Fed up with D Link Couplings? Let's replace them, it doesn’t take long, with help from Chadwick Model Railway 196.
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Bachmann Couplings 36-026 (Type Long)
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Хобби
To hide the nut, use matt black nail varnish (hides a multitude of stuff) and does not require brush cleaning; it will also act as a form of loctite. Great video as always. Tom.
Thanks OOE, what a great suggestion. Regards, Charlie
There is always matt black paint!😊
"I dont want to drill thru me mat. So I'll drill into my finger instead".....!!
Love this video. I have some Hornby RR teaks I want to change the couplings on. I may attempt to follow your guide here. Good video
Thanks Denno, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Regards Charlie
A 20 minute swift for the price of 10? Great value.
Nice one Charlie.
Thanks,
Bob
Yes, Bob, this one seemed to grow legs. Regards, Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway It's didn't seem to last more than 10 minutes, though - went by in a flash!
Charlie, I have worked in the aviation industry for over 46 years and may have some ideas that would make the coupling appearance a little cleaner.
If you were to countersink the heavier plastic and use a countersunk flat head screw and on the other side, use a tinnerman nut, it would be almost unnoticeable. A touch of flat black paint and it shouldn't be noticed at all.
I really enjoy your channel and look forward to each release. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Ernest, however, I shall have to look up tinnerman nut! Regards, Charlie
Hi Charlie! I'm new to the hobby and have been binge watching you're videos for a while now. I've found so much useful information that the hobby doesn't seem quite so scary now (shame it doesn't make it any cheaper though!). I'm currently building up a batch of Airfix/Parkside vans and wagons and these couplings look ideal. Will be loosing those nasty large D ring couplings from my other rolling stock too. All the items you listed in the video now duly ordered....and have another subscriber! Cheers! Steve
That’s great news, Steve, welcome aboard. Regards, Charlie.
A tip, Charlie, for removing plastic carefully and accurately ..
A 2 or 3 inch thick block of wood, to raise up and support the item. ( The block can be shaped to hold the part more easily).
A file which has never tasted cold steel, but only plastic, used on an item supported on a block ,will remove material far swifter than trying to bring two trembling paws and a spinning machine against a tiny plastic part.
A jewellers bench peg is the superior version of my suggestion.
Wise words, John. Many thanks for your guidance, regards, Charlie
A lot of scary sharp tools in this one Charlie! The small black bachmann coupling fixing screws or the ones that hold Oxford cars in place etc. can be used in place of the bigger nut and bolt method, drill a smaller pilot hole and use the screw's self tapping properties to hold the coupling in place.
A sensible alternative William. Regards, Charlie
I did it similarly but with an M2 tap and black nylon screws
Thanks Charlie, as some one whos just found you I've spent far too much time of the last 2 weeks watching your videos. Great stuff.
Thanks Martin, it’s great to have you on board. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie.
Going back to some of your older vlogs.
Found this one very helpful as are all your tutorials.
Got an assortment of couplings on my rolling stock. You have made it look nice and easy, thank you Charlie.
Stay safe buddy.
Pete.
Thanks Pete, that’s very kind of you to say so. Regards, Charlie
Enjoyed that one, really interesting way of altering old couplings and addressing the gap. Thanks Charlie
Thanks Scott, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards Charlie
Great description and demonstration Charlie, and a good cosmetic improvement.
And next week Charlie shows us all how to make a level work bench lol. Looks like the Camel show went well by the number of videos posted. Cheers, Bob.
Thanks Bob, yes the show was a great success. Thank you. Regards, Charlie
I thought the workbench was just one of those “self clearing “ types! 🤣🫡✌️
Hi (youngish) Charles.
More sound advice from the maestro!
I always paint my coupling screws etc. with acryllic matt black. It disguises them nicely from a distance.
Paul. 👍❤
Sensible idea, Paul. I shall do mine once the trains are complete. Regards Charlie
Spot on Charlie! Thanks a million 👍 I've some pressed metal D couplings too, so I'll see if they can have similar treatment.
That’s great news Edward.
Good luck with the modification.
Regards Charlie
A reply useful video. I’ve bought some new couplings, now I know how to fit them. Thanks Charlie. Roy.
Thanks Roy, the pleasure is all mine. Regards, Charlie
Enjoyed your tutorial. I used your tutorial to fit Hunt screw T bar magnetic couplings to Lima/Hornby bogie on R4997
I’m so pleased that you found the video useful Kenneth. Regards, Charlie
Another great and informative video, Charlie.I look forward to another informative video soon.
Thanks Mark, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards Charlie
A very interesting and useful 'how to' Charlie!! Thanks for sharing mate! Cheers Onno.
You’re most welcome Onno. Regards, Charlie
Charlie, what can I say, a lot of palava.
As you said in the Patreon email, I find this a bit on the funny side.
In Australia, all the "local" locos, and rolling stock, use Kadee couplers, that so far, touch wood, work fairly well, and look almost prototypical.
Anyway, great engineering work on getting your couplers to look better.
Thank you for sharing, as I am sure this will help a great number of people.
Cheers, and stay safe, Michael
Thanks Michael, I’m so pleased that you show sympathy to this ridiculous situation in which we suffer. Good luck with your project, regards, Charlie
With the Lima ridge you can also leave it, level off with a 1mm piece of plasticard cut to size glued behind it and then glue and screw in a Bachmann cranked coupling. Both methods work. Very helpful video Charlie.
I’m so pleased that you found a workable solution as well. Peter. Regards, Charlie
Hi Charlie ,, great video to help us get better connections happening and for ease of running trains.
I remember when i was a kid that any derailments would never ever happen in front of me but would always be in a tunnel or at thee furtherest point of my layout at the time.
Cutting these old plastic D couplers off will be a pleasure as i know they will always in my eyes see a cheap way out from hornby but when it comes to business and i suppose 10 cents times a billion can add up quite nicely tidy sum for the company.
You done a great job with the nuts and bolts and yes the nuts look best on the top filed down a tad and painted matt black you hardly even see them. Again good work and gr8 video.
Cheers from John in Australia
Thanks John, that’s very kind of you to say so. Regards, Charlie
This is great I’m getting on Amazon as soon as I get home
I might try my mini heat shrink gun to see if I can warm the boggie flange to sit level
But having the description of the required screws etc is Great
Keep up the great work I will try this modification see what the spacing between wagons and maybe fit nem pockets so I can swap out to magnetic couplings
Thanks Chris, however it’s eBay you need to seek not Amazon. Regards, Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway
Oh sorry watching on phone will do better on my laptop
Thanks for letting me know
Another very enjoyable video as you take a Dremel to your rolling stock! Great Job!
Thanks Gavin, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Was it risky, perhaps. Regards, Charlie
Charlie love all the videos some I have tried.But don't have much space. Used cardboard from cereal boxes great fun. Kept me safe in lock down Keep up the great work Joe
Thanks Joe, it’s great to have you onboard. Regards Charlie
Nice video Charlie. Like you, I have a dislike for the large D couplings and have converted all mine. However, although I used a similar process to you, I have fitted NEM pockets and Kadee couplings.
That’s interesting TJ, where did you sort the NEM pockets from? Regards, Charlie
Superb work ! I take note from you because I have bought some Parkside and Dapol wagon kits, and I want to put Kadee no. 5 on them. You put forward some issues you can have while fiddling with couplers, and some clever solutions. I have thought first to simply glue my Kadee boxes below my wagons, but I will certainly take your nut and screw method in action. It seems mechanically sounder than simply glueing, and you can replace a faulty/badly dimensoinned coupler (shank too short for instance, common problem while choosing the right size for a Kadee coupler).
I know what you mean, Oliver, I do love KDs but the choice is huge.
great video Charlie always something interesting look forward to your next one
Thanks mate, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Regards Charlie
You make it look so easy Charlie , nice one
Thanks John, but it is quite a simple modification. Regards, Charlie
Charlie you have been watching to many of my vids and catching the QUICK 10 minute and in reality 20 minutes of quality. Great stuff. I agree they look much more prototypical but Bless Hornby for a method that’s going on now what 50+ years lol
I do agree, but it’s time they moved on. Regards, Charlie
Great video Charlie a very informative how to do that job thank you for sharing 👍
You’re most welcome Clive, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards, Charlie
Very useful video - thank you.
You’re very welcome, Tom. Regards, Charlie.
Always a pleasure Charlie... Thanks.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it NDV. Regards, Charlie
Hi Charlie, Another great video🙂I've done this to my Lima 100 ton tankers and they look so much better, I used a self tapping screw to secure the Bachmann coupling. I just cut the old D type coupling off with cutters as you did, however when I tried this on some Hornby double vee cement wagons I discovered that the plastic bogies were made of a different plastic and didn't take to kindly to having the D coupling cut off, unfortunately the bogie frame shattered 😱I had to use a small razor saw instead. Regards, David.
Thanks David, for an interesting revelation. Regards, Charlie
Did this with my Lima 100 t tanks too, great improvement.
Morning Charlie I watched your video about changing D link couplings on your DMU and I thought I would give it a try on my hornby class 55 dcc loco I have trimmed the D link down and have glued a nem pocket to one end to see how it goes before I tackle the other end thanks again for all your ideas I really enjoy your tips to make things look better on our model railways
Kind regards
Kev swift Beighton Parkway Sheffield
Thanks Kev, and good luck with your project. Regards, Charlie
A great short video, Charlie 👍
Thanks Jeff, much appreciated. Regards, Charlie
Very good Charlie another fine business of railway modelling. thank you Charlie.
You’re most welcome, Tony. Regards, Charlie.
It's not the washer, that's hanging down. It's the nut and the end of the scrue 😉. I really enjoy ass always enjoy your video. Very inspirion. Sorry for the spelling. I'm danish. Steen, DK.
No problems DK. I’m so pleased to have you on board. Regards, Charlie
Hey Charlie, Leroy here, from Tennessee in the states, Great video, I always look forward to each new one! A Sharpie or felt tip will easily hide the fastener
Thanks Sterling, for a most useful suggestion. Regards Charlie
Another highly informative video Charlie. From an engineering point of view, for me, the screw always goes downward (Ie..the screwhead facing the sky) - that way, should the worst happen and the nut falls off the screw acts as a bolt giving the chance of salvation. If it were inserted from the bottom and the nut fell off the screw would bounce down the track derailing all-comers! :) .
You are of course, right Roger. I did that from my helicopter maintenance days. However, we are just playing trains. Regards, Charlie
Hi Charlie, if you drill an under sized hole and use self tapping screws you could do away with the the nut and washer. I have done this loads of times and never had a problem.
That’s interesting Terry. What size self tapper did you use? Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie. The self tapping screws I use are made by 'EXPO' part number A33010 PK, 100 2g x 1\4'' self tapping screws. you may want longer ones, depending on the thickness of plastic you are going through. (Am I teaching you how to suck eggs! lol) Kind Regards. Terry
@@ChadwickModelRailway Hi Charlie. Sorry I did not reply to you correctly and added my reply to the thread! so here it is again. The screws I use are made by EXPO part number A33010 PK 2g x 1/4'' self tapping screws. longer may be required depending on the thickness you are working with. Kind Regards. Terry
Thanks Terry, that’s most useful. Regards Charlie
Bloody good stuff, Charlie as usual. Many years ago I did some mods like this. I drilled a hole slightly smaller to use with the tiny Black Computer screws to bite into the plastic without having a nut attached. Though if weathering the rolling your M2s will hid better too. For me, with them being a smaller screw I found it helped to blend them in with the coupling and bogie while still holding the coupling in place. If you want to make it permanent, then after all the work and testing is done, is to finish off by adding some superglue and then remove the screw fix altogether. Hopefully this will help as well to anyone that wants to do this mod on their own rolling stock.
Excellent suggestions T M. Much appreciated. Regards Charlie
@ChadwickModelRailway Anytime, Sir.
Great video Charlie, really useful maybe a bit of a matt black enamel paint over the screws and bolt would hide the sight of it and blend in a bit more? If anyone was worried about seeing it close up, thanks for sharing and something I need to do with some of my old rolling stock - Mark
Thanks Mark, some good advice. Regards, Charlie
Thank you Charlie, very interesting video
Thanks Paul , I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards, Charlie
Use a thimble, protect your fingy!
Good advice, Daniel. Regards, Charlie
Charlie mat you should use a block of sacrificial wood to rest the item that you are drilling in the future to make it easier.
Thanks Earl, a bit of a schoolboy error there mate. Regards, Charlie
Well done with another informative swift video Charlie.
That is such a simple modification.
Much simpler than the mods I had changing all my goods wagons from D links to Kadee's, where araldite had to be involved, no reverting back to D links now.. lol.
Take care and stay Safe
Gosh, David, that must be one hell of an undertaking. Regards, Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway It was Charlie, but luckily all the surfaces on the underside of the chassis under the "buffer bar" were the same height from the track top once all the original coupling moulding was cut off and surfaces cleaned. So just a matter of gluing the Kadee "gear box"assembly, with the whisker coupling, to that surface. All looks really good and more realistic than the big D links, in my opinion..lol. Take care
I recall someone demonstrating the use of an old propelling pencil, the kind with 3 jaws that open up to let the pencil lead through, for picking up and handling of small nuts.
I can understand why, it’s such a fiddly job. Regards, Charlie
very useful chum, thanks Paul
Thanks Paul, I imagine that you’re missing your railway but not the stress of RUclips. Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway I think that about sums it all up chum, almost ready to start the new build, just so so e refinements to timber work then off we Jolly well go, lol. Cheers P
Hi Charlie, well done thats a tricky job made harder by filming it at the same time.
I seem to recall those D couplings on Triang stock and always thought they looked terrible these smaller ones are far more discrete ...... and we got a double helping of swift to boot!!
Have a great weekend
Thanks David, it is about time the manufacturers moved on. Regards, Charlie
Cracking little video Charlie
Thanks Alan, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards Charlie
Hello Charlie, I am an n gauge modeller and even replacing the D couplings as you have done they still look very "toylike" and clunky. The gap between the coaches still looks far too big and I would suggest shortening further. Plus fitting corridor connectors. Im no expert on OO gauge couplings but this type just dont look right on the front or back of trains. I think you did the right thing removing them from the DMU.
Yes Robert, it’s a real shame.
Regards Charlie
if the screw faces up and comes loose the coupling will detach and you will have to search the track for the nut washer and screw, A touch of thread locker, crazy glue or even clear nail varnish will lock the nut in place. thanks for another great swift, Charlie ven if it ran over.
Thanks John, I will use some Loctite, once they’ve proved successful. Regards, Charlie
One thing which Im going to try looking at is 3d printing a nem socket for my 80s Hornby Teak I recently repainted into Blue & Grey, as the couplings and non-flush glazing ruin an otherwise good model.
I might also try this for my hornby, triang, and wrenn rolling stock
I wish you luck with your project NWG, regards, Charlie
Ooh very useful, thanks charlie!
Thanks SB, regards, Charlie
Very good video Charlie. I did something very similar with my class 101 DMU, but instead of using the small tension couplings, I used the hunt magnetic ones. This prevented the separation on slopes and bends, but also closed the gap between the gangways.
That’s interesting, did yours come with NEM pockets.? If not which pockets dId you use? Regards Charlie
Always loved the ease of removal and robustness of Lima bogies, but hated the ridiculously big D couplings. When replacing with a better coupling I bought some small brass screws to attach the better couplings. File off the tips when installed and quite robust. Wagons are the pain though!
I feel your pain Mick. Regards, Charlie
Another good one Charlie, I would be tempted to shorten the screws but agree, screw from bottom
Perhaps a little black paint too. Regards, Charlie
Well it may be swift, but full of content Charlie. Couplings really are a pain in the neck and this is a simple process to try and get some kind of uniform system. Simple and well explained, but I do worry about the level of your table!!!!
Thanks mate, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. As you say, couplings haunt us all. Regards, Charlie
Nice little vid......good to see the older models getting some attention too not the latest whizz bang pricey stuff....i like that 3 car dmu.
I’m so pleased that you found it. Interesting mate. Regards, Charlie
Hey there Charlie, I would look at using a small amount of epoxy between the bogie frame and new coupling plus a dab of black paint on the screw assemby to make it neat.
I recall about a decade ago I was going to go down the Kaydee coupling path but abandoned it after converting a similar 3 car DMU because of the cost.
Cheers though much appreciated.
Don't forget your safety glasses with the Dremel chum!
Regards from Oz. Gaz
You make an excellent point Gaz. However, if I wanted to swap it out for an NEM socket, then it would be more difficult. Regards, Charlie
There's a reason top-level wire cutter snips at electrical supplies cost so much more than those budget 'snips'. They look the same but are not the same. Took me years to invest in good ones and immediately regretted not doing so earlier
Yes Stephen, you’re dead right, buy cheap, buy twice. Regards, Charlie
That’s very similar to how I’ve done mine except I fitted Kadee couplings instead.
Thanks mate, but I’m trying to keep this one away from the KD option. Regards Charlie
awsome video Charlie
Thanks Christopher, that’s very kind. Regards Charlie
Charlie! I thought you had decided to be sensible and go for proper coupling options these days 😢
Like myself, a healthy mixture of Kadees and magnetic couplings!
With not a tension lock in sight!...
That said - been here myself, snipping away.. fiddly work..
Glad to see you posting, got a bit worried for a while without old chadders in my feed! ;)
All the best Charlie!
Thanks Charlie, but I need to post videos for everyone’s needs, not just the knuckle coupling guys. Regards, Charlie
Hi Charlie Ive been using these short Bachmann couplings on my rake of Airfix mk2Ds as well as Hunt Magnetic ones within the rakes. A bit of modification and there's really close coupling to be had. Ive been playing about with Lima couplings and cutting the D off one and using the other to hook onto the lip which gives a good close coupling with Lima stock. Unfortunately it still looks wildly inaccurate but a few more experiments will be necessary...
Thanks DJ, I certainly haven’t finished experimenting with the various options either. Regards, Charlie
Excellent Charlie. I'm glad you went to the block when drilling. I also managed to drill holes in my fingers trying to not doing things properly. I can see why you have done this and it is much better, however I would have thought that NEM pockets so you could fit magnetic couplings or other close couplings would have been useful. I like to use the Hornby flexible couplings as well.
I find it frustrating because the lack of capitiblity of couplings. It started 60 years ago with the metal Ds of Tri-ang qnd Hornby Dublo. I tried to standardise on Hornby/Peco, but they would often uncouple while running, which the Tri-Ang ones didn't but I hated the huge gaps of them. In the 70s I tried to standardise on the Mainline small Ds, but fortunately kept the very small Ds from Airfix. And so it has continued. I have some beautiful coaches in the Pines Express set except for the dreadful HUGE D couplings. I did write to Hornby and ask if they would supply the new push in bogies as a spare, to no avail. I will have to study them to see if I could safely modify them. But like you say, it is the pushing up hill which is as important as pulling down. The thing is that there is a value to having the original sets unmodified. So if I modify the couplings does it reduce the value of a limited number set?
Thanks for a great comment, Don. I see that we have both drilled holes in our fingers then! Regards, Charlie
Regarding Hornby-Dublo, my recollection of them is that they were not fitted with D couplers, but had crude metal knuckle couplers like Peco and similar to Trix Twin but slightly smaller. My 3-rail ac powered Trix locos would run in a (poor) fashion and couple up on a friends 3-rail dc Hornby Dublo track. Also, Airfix/Kitmaster used the NMRA designed (but not officially approved by them) plastic horn-hook coupling which was another variant of knuckles.
@@MervynPartin I wasn't saying that Hornby Dublo had the D couplings. What I was trying to say, badly, that even then I was trying to standardise on couplings, the two types were the D and the Hornby and even these varied since they started out as metal and changed to plastic.
@@donsharpe5786 Sorry if I misunderstood. My model railway has a mix of couplings and I would like to standardise too. I would love to use Kadee, but conversion of all the stock would be too expensive. I certainly don't like the big d-couplings, but I will have to deal with them after I have sorted out some problems with the signalling circuits.
I am really surprised that they don’t use Knuckle couplers everywhere to me they look more realistic than the type that you get on your side of the pond.
Indeed. Can anyone tell me why they still use those type of couplers on models in the UK? Is it because knuckle couplers were not used in the real railways in the 1960s and 70s?
The 1st generation DMUs still used screw couplings as did locomotives (except for Southern Region push pull fitted locos such as the 33/1s and 73s). Coaching stock used Buckeye (ie knuckle) couplers which swung down to reveal a hook for locomotives to hitch on to.
As to models using the D couplings they were pretty ugly but foolproof. They earned and you got fewer derailment with them if they all matched and were the same height. Perfect for train set stock but jarring to the eye, obviously.
I feel sure that the manufacturers would worry that, manufacturing new rolling stock with knuckle couplers would be less popular with many people who stay with tension lock couplings.
It’s a dreadful situation.
Regards, Charlie
Thanks for sharing Charlie but this coupling is not for me . I put these in the bin 😮that how much I hate this coupling. I have some D coupling which I have cut off coaching stock and they are waiting for new couplings to be fixed. Thinking of putting pockets to them . I don't know where I can buy them from. I can then I a choice of couplings to go for 😊 but not these couplings. Once again thanks for sharing take care stay safe
@@peterainsworth8466 I find it interesting that the old Hornby Dublo models had a variation on a knuckle coupling, which looked much neater than the tension lock, but when Triang took over Hornby, the D tension lock began to take over.
That's a good move Charlie, I think that I would use a drop of Loctite, due to any vibration which may help with them come separated.
Good idea, but only once they’ve proven their reliability. Regards, Charlie
Absolutely brilliant Charlie, I was looking at using Hunts Magnetic coupling to replace my large D-link's, but this is much better. On another note, I asked a couple of weeks ago about how you shape/cut cork under you points/turnouts. I could not find the information in your videos, is there a chance you could do a short video on how you add cork to your points?...Simon
Certainly Simon, I shall cover it when I lay the track in the branch line area. Regards, Charlie
Have to admit, I was a bit terrified when the Dremel came out! I couldn't help but think you'd have much more control with a small file. I was also going to suggest using a self tap screw, but as I'm late to the party, I see a few others have already suggested that, as they have my other suggestion to paint the shiny metal screw/bolt & nut to help hide it.
Yes Andrew, there has been some sound advice on this one. Regards Charlie
You'll find that the "old Bachmann" DMU is in fact a old Lima DMU!
Thanks Mike, I should’ve checked on that earlier. Regards Charlie
Brilliant thank you
Thanks, KYM, regards, Charlie
It was a de-luxe edition Swift, Charlie! 😉 I have done similar with several old Hornby wagons and their huge couplings faces which have been filed, smoothed and repainted to neaten the job. I don’t mind them as they are from a time when things were less fussy and as I know you agree, if they work for people’s needs, why change them? Plus I have some mint old timers that I couldn’t bare to alter as they are ‘of an era’, though I am not aversion buying old knackered wagons and giving them a whole new lease of life, like my Triang grey CEMFLO project. I have accumulated several knackered old models of said wagon and will be using the bodies to create different variants of the wagons. Because I feel like it! 😂 But they will definitely be getting better couplings! 🤓
Another thing I have done is file a space and superglue a NEM pocket on stock that I might want to run in multiple at some point. So far it has worked OK though I have only done it on about 3 or 4 vehicles so far. Works well if you like magnetic couplings 😎
Cheers Charlie! Have a great weekend mate 👍🍻🍀😉
Great stuff Charli
Thanks Tim, great comment. From where did you buy the NEM pockets.? Regards, Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway: ooh blimey now you’ve got me! It would have been about three years ago now and I have a feeling it was just a random thing off ebay 🤔 I still have a wee bag with some unused somewhere amongst my toot which unfortunately is packed away, as are the bloody wagons 🙄 I’ll try to find a link if I can though mate. I also found some great budget magnetic couplings which another chap 3D printed. Guess where they are? 😂
Cheers mate 🍻👍🍀
Great video Charlie (as always). Have you considered looking into Keen Systems close couplings? I have used these in the past in a lot of my older stock, and it just transforms how close you can get the coaches.
Yes I have Antony, on my Mk1 and Mk2 coaches. I was suffering from break-aways and moved to solid hose couplings. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, an excellent video and whilst I have Kadees on all my locos and rolling stock, I agree with you that the large Hornby D couplers are hideous. Cheers Greg
Thanks Greg, I just wish we were as lucky as you are with the manufacturing of couplings. Regards, Charlie
Think you need a couple of beer mats under the table legs to level up your mat and stop things rolling off. 😊
Good video Charlie, maybe you could add another nut on the spare thread and lock the nuts together but leaving the bolt slightly loose so that the coupling could swivel
Or use a nyloc nut?
Interesting options gentlemen, many thanks, regards, Charlie
good vid on the channel keep up the good vid you do on the channel thanks lee
Thanks Lee, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Regards, Charlie
Your quick 10 minute video ended up 21 minutes lol. Maybe it was a slightly swift :).
Always enjoy your videos. Thanks for all the time you put into these.
Thanks EA, this one did seem to grow legs. Regards, Charlie
I’d put some thread lock on that screw before tightening the bolt up, otherwise it’ll work loose over time.
I agree, Phil, however, I want to prove its function before I do so. Regards, Charlie
@15.45. Hard plastic may become pliable with heat blown from a hairdryer! Also I think that hoping that a derailment would occur on camera is dependent on ' sod's law '.
Thanks David, I tried using heat before but it’s very hit and miss. Regards, Charlie
14:58 : Can hear Denis Nordon: "never work with children or animals or modified DMUs"
An interesting comparison mate. Regards, Charlie
Great swift or should we say super swift anyway very helpful video and excellent idea.
Thanks Arthur, this one did seem to grow legs. Regards, Charlie
I couldn't do that Charlie ive got butter fingers 😂😂😂😂❤
There is no doubt in my mind, Bob that you can. Just give it a go mate, regards, Charlie
Thank you for another interesting video, Charlie. As a note, nuts, bolts, and washers are available in black. I was a bit worried about your fingers when using the Dremel, have you considered investing in a cheap modellers vise ?🤣🤣 I was wondering if you could produce one of your informative videos on how to put Directional Lighting into a DCC Ready (8 pin) Class 35 Hymek ? It would certainly help me !. Thanks again.
That’s a strange question, Neil, my DCC ready Hymeks, have directional lighting, with a decoder fitted. Regards, Charlie
I replace the couplings with kadee couplings, but then the more recent stuff has nem pockets. I have a medium length kadee on one car and a short one on the other, then the gangways are practically touching, and of course you have the expanding gap on curves
Nice that you found a reliable alternative Michael. Regards, Charlie
I think for safety and reliability reasons bolts go in from the top then they can remain in place by gravity should the nut come off. It gives someone a little bit of time to find the fault before catastrophic failure.
I do agree from a technical perspective. However, it does look better this way! Regards, Charlie
Charlie I was surprised you did not install a NEM pocket and then you have a choice of couplers to use.
You’re beating me to the next videos, Eamonn. Regards, Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway Sorry, it's just your usually so up to date and I know your not a fan of any d link coupling
Of course, if Triang had standardised on the Hornby Dublo/Peco buckeye-type coupling after they bought up Meccano ,instead of these awful tension lock items, you wouldn't be having this trouble - and you would be able to lift individual items of stock out of the trains without ending up with a string of de-railed wagons or coaches still hooked together.
Tell me about it, Peter, it’s a nightmare. Regards, Charlie
Hornby-Dublo couplings were a nightmare. Very easily bent in our enthusiasm in the 1950's/60's. Of course, we are talking trainset days I suppose, and our handling of stock not so respectful!
Interesting stuff. It took me a year to remove TLCs large and small from all my stock and convert to Kadee’s. Dapol seemed to be the worst for drooping and excess play. The old massive TLCs were better for running and reversing reliability
I too found of the Dapol and Heljan NEM sockets droopy,. It’s quite difficult to shim them up. Regards, Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailwayyes and the Dapol NEM pockets so poorly attached, found it better to completely remove and instead fit a kadee draft gear box coupling to the floor of their wagons.
Hi Charlie re your D Lunk coupling conversion. Given your not needed to break up the DMU. You could use magnetic coupling. They work brilliantly on rakes that run in either direction and can’t ride up. I also found Porter House are good value vs some others and look better. Just a thought.
You are bang on the money, Howard. However, some folks wish to stay with tension locks hence the video. Regards, Charlie
I still have to mix it up so that there is an uncoupling end to shut etc. . But I heard from West Hill wagon works they might have an uncoupler for magnetic couplings at Waverly! Be interesting if they do.
Yes Howard, that will be an interesting revaluation. Regards Charlie
Attachments for Dremel, Hart, and Iron Tough rotary tools should fit that tool. Small diameter Chicago screws might have worked better than those with visible nuts since both ends have a slotted head on them.
Thanks mate, although I have never heard of Chicago screws. Regards, Charlie
Many thanks for another informative video Charlie. Do you have any advice on how best to replace the D link couplings fitted to Hornby Freightliner wagons? - unfortunately, the bogies do not pull off as they are "riveted" on and have a different design. Best wishes.
Sorry Jeff, the only option is Kadee’s. Regards, Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway - OK, thank you for confirming Charlie.
In my humble opinion, a bit of a palaver. Having cut the dee part off and trimmed the edges, one then needs to check the height of the coupling, as Charlie did. If that is OK why not a drop of plastic cement? It can always be separated later to fit different couplings
Hi Stewart,,this that was exactly my point. Should you wish to swap it out for a different type of coupling or NEM socket, it would be a simple removal.
Regards, Charlie
Hi Charlie,
Another good 'un. There is a wider issue underlying your detailed video, Perfect track, cleaned to perfection and still it derails or uncouples. And then you realise different (however small) couplings. I seem to have less problems with the dreaded D but maybe I need to think smaller. How good will they be on tight radius curves?
Conversion of an entire stock seems quite expensive. Would it be possible to use superglue or epoxy instead of screws and nuts and their visibility problems?
Dissimilar couplings are more of a problem than we recognise...
PS Love the Chinchilla sand- perfect effect and quiet cheap at Pets-are-us. I did dry clean my Chinchillas but they shrank. They want their sand back. (No slur on any Cheshire related town intended).
Best wishes as always
You are, of course, right Graham.
It’s the dilemma between reliable, running and better Asthetics.
Stay safe, regards, Charlie
Might just be worth saying that you can't pull out those Lima coach bogies forever, the little bits of plastic which keep the bogie inside the coach soon wear or break off and that's why there is a mass of Lima rolling stock were the bogies just fall out... It can happen after on a couple of pulls if you're really unlucky.
Bit of glue added then filed sorts that
You are, of course, right gentlemen, they do get somewhat brittle. Regards, Charlie
I have loads of stuff with d-link couplings
Good luck with your modifications TST.
Regards Charlie
I'd never have anything accurascale as their customer services would rather block people that complain
That’s very interesting MH. Regards, Charlie.
I agree Charlie nut up👍
You’re right, Martin, we’re all nuts! Regards, Charlie
More of a medium than a short! 😄 But a good demonstration nevertheless. I am slowly but surely replacing all mine with magnetic couplers. Never seen the point of the end couplers on DMUs as I've never seen anyone run them as multiple units. Cheers
Thanks Davie, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards Charlie
Great vid Charlie and timely too. I have dreaded 'D's on several wagons which I wish to update. But I'm having a problem however on my Murco TEA bogie tankwagons. The bogies don't just pull out and I've tried pretty hard. Would be interested to learn if anyone here knows how to get them off. The bogies are affixed to conical housing on the underside of the tank sub-frame. Do I need to get even more physical or is there a trickI'm missing?
Can you reply to Chadwick modelrailway @gmail.com, with a photo. Regards, Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway sent!
Curious to know why you didn't fit NEM boxes? Then you could convert to Kaadee couplings if you want to as well. I know there's a height issue you would have to overcome, but it seems like there'd be some advantages in many cases.
I was thinking the same thing - though since this is a fixed rake DMU, I'd think about skipping the Kadee's and going with some of those new fangled magnetic or fixed close couplers!
I’m on the case with Hunt Couplings at the moment guys. Regards, Charlie