Oh wow! You are 100% correct! I just looked at the pictures in the product listing and the instructions. Some of the pictures show it backwards, some show it installed correctly. That's the last time I trust instructions :)
I have the big brother to this, the 2200 lb Rugcel. My welder/fabricator put a 1/2" 2x2 ft. steel plate under the trailer deck with grade 8 bolts (threw the Chinese ones away) and double box iron across the width of the trailer and welded to the frame to boot. I also had him place it just in front of the wheels so the weight gets taken up on a 3500lb axle instead of the corner or the tongue there. An outrigger or jack will help that and I'm sure you've got her tuned up right by now. I lift 1000 lb marble sculptures on mine and deliver and set them up in public sculpture parks and it works great mostly. A couple things I'm not thrilled about is lifting real heavy items will run the battery down fast even with my truck running and having it plugged in. I need more power than a 12 volt heavy duty battery and my 4Runner. The reverse won't work if the power gets low from lifting and so you're stuck with a 1000 lb rock just hanging there until you charge the battery up again and that can take time and be a real pain. I'd love to get a 3/4 ton with big dual alternators, but I'm not rich and interest rates are too high to switch trucks right now anyway. Oh, and don't forget to grease the main bearing regularly or the crane will rust and seize up. Last but not least, my winch and yours didn't come with a "fair lead" block so when you reel in the cable it can bind and Criss cross over and cause the wires to fray. I emailed Rugcel about this and never got any response. Maybe you have to buy that separate? You know what I'm talking about, the rollers in front of the winch that make the wire spool up properly. You've inspired me to do a video on my next marble drop and I appreciate seeing how others addressed the same sort of challenges I had in getting this all to work. Good job.
As noted by many others, the trailer frame needs to be substantially beefed up so it doesn't bend/break the trailer. However....you could also weld a very strong ring or U-bolt to the top of the mast, but below the parts that rotate. Run a chain and a ratcheting chain binder from the mast to the opposite side of the trailer. Make a big "V" so you don't lose all the support when you rotate the boom into the trailer.
I bought one made by Velvor last year, I had to reinforce the bottom also, where the boom sits, the brackets were not square. A bit of advice, if you take this on the street, drill a hole all the way through the boom and base, as it will walk, no matter how tight you turn the lever.
@rustyassets weight limit is due to extended distance from center, so once you get the boom right way around, should be able to lift more at closer proximity to the trailer. Why not weld some supports just below the pivot, angled down to the trailer? that arm that fell off, put a longer one (perhaps removable), it will help you rotate large loads that you dont want to be under (again, once boom is right way around). If you put a pulley at the hook, and run the cable back up to an attachment on bottom near end of the boom, you'll put less strain on the winch and the cable. might want to upgrade to a winch that has a load holding brake.
The lean you got was exactly the reason I have not bought one of these yet. It will need a lot of reinforcement below deck. Possible but even a bigger chore since I don't weld.
So no local Harbor Freight? $189.99 Note: you are beating yourself up by not Center lifting your loads, and keeping the Boom to low. 2 extended C-channels will stop the flex. Good luck as you learn with this crane and always stay clear of your load.
Get a 1/2” steel plate that’s trailer width and 2 ft wide. That will hold and not flex. Bolt plate to trailer or weld then your hoist. Hoist was backwards
Instead of the added cost of a trailer jack, mounting time, and inconvenience of placement, just get a piece of rectangular steel that will fit through the tiedown, with multiple holes of course for different terrain, and make a bolt on foot. Cheaper, just as effective. Just need to brace that corner. Just my thoughts.
When the trailed deck bent downwards, you said "it wasn't the brace weld failing, it was the deck weld". I don't see how that could be possible if the brace was under the deck and supporting it.
He needed to use either washers or a spacer to take up the gap between the trailer deck and his reinforcement braces, or he should have clearance the brace ends for the flanges of his trailer crossbeams to weld the braces flush to the underside of the trailer deck. He left a gap
@@dodgeme1986truckI would've put the braces right up against the deck to better distribute the load. Leaving any sort of a gap is asking for trouble. looking at the amount of movement, I think the weld gave way.
@@MakeitZUPER that's what I was stating the braces weren't flush underneath the deck and there were no spacers to fill the gap which caused the problem
Yep,.. I don't know why he didn't mount it through the channel main frame just a couple inches away. And cope the 1 additional cross member to be flush to the bottom of the deck.
Hey how are ya I found your video because I was looking for a crane similar to this but do you think the vertical pipe can be shortened and still work probably? I need it to be as short as possible.
By ny opinion you have all wrong - position of the crane should be somewhere on the back around trailer wheels so they can take weight. Crane arm is installed opposite than it is designed so your lifting angles are not sufficient enough to lift anything serious or long, etc....
Your boom is on backwards. Pivot is on the tail hole.
Oh wow! You are 100% correct! I just looked at the pictures in the product listing and the instructions. Some of the pictures show it backwards, some show it installed correctly. That's the last time I trust instructions :)
I looked at the Amazon page - the pics there show the boom mounted both ways - wow, they need to
get it Together
How is it going after 12 months. I need the same setup but for the back of the ute. Thanks in advance.
Got mine at Princess Auto for $110.00. I had a 2000lbs winch that I had repaired and I put it on my crane on my trailer. Works awesome.
I have the big brother to this, the 2200 lb Rugcel. My welder/fabricator put a 1/2" 2x2 ft. steel plate under the trailer deck with grade 8 bolts (threw the Chinese ones away) and double box iron across the width of the trailer and welded to the frame to boot. I also had him place it just in front of the wheels so the weight gets taken up on a 3500lb axle instead of the corner or the tongue there. An outrigger or jack will help that and I'm sure you've got her tuned up right by now. I lift 1000 lb marble sculptures on mine and deliver and set them up in public sculpture parks and it works great mostly. A couple things I'm not thrilled about is lifting real heavy items will run the battery down fast even with my truck running and having it plugged in. I need more power than a 12 volt heavy duty battery and my 4Runner. The reverse won't work if the power gets low from lifting and so you're stuck with a 1000 lb rock just hanging there until you charge the battery up again and that can take time and be a real pain. I'd love to get a 3/4 ton with big dual alternators, but I'm not rich and interest rates are too high to switch trucks right now anyway. Oh, and don't forget to grease the main bearing regularly or the crane will rust and seize up. Last but not least, my winch and yours didn't come with a "fair lead" block so when you reel in the cable it can bind and Criss cross over and cause the wires to fray. I emailed Rugcel about this and never got any response. Maybe you have to buy that separate? You know what I'm talking about, the rollers in front of the winch that make the wire spool up properly. You've inspired me to do a video on my next marble drop and I appreciate seeing how others addressed the same sort of challenges I had in getting this all to work. Good job.
As noted by many others, the trailer frame needs to be substantially beefed up so it doesn't bend/break the trailer. However....you could also weld a very strong ring or U-bolt to the top of the mast, but below the parts that rotate. Run a chain and a ratcheting chain binder from the mast to the opposite side of the trailer. Make a big "V" so you don't lose all the support when you rotate the boom into the trailer.
I bought one made by Velvor last year, I had to reinforce the bottom also, where the boom sits, the brackets were not square. A bit of advice, if you take this on the street, drill a hole all the way through the boom and base, as it will walk, no matter how tight you turn the lever.
@rustyassets weight limit is due to extended distance from center, so once you get the boom right way around, should be able to lift more at closer proximity to the trailer. Why not weld some supports just below the pivot, angled down to the trailer? that arm that fell off, put a longer one (perhaps removable), it will help you rotate large loads that you dont want to be under (again, once boom is right way around). If you put a pulley at the hook, and run the cable back up to an attachment on bottom near end of the boom, you'll put less strain on the winch and the cable. might want to upgrade to a winch that has a load holding brake.
The lean you got was exactly the reason I have not bought one of these yet. It will need a lot of reinforcement below deck. Possible but even a bigger chore since I don't weld.
I have a box scraper like that, when it's sitting on the ground it won't even budge, it's seriously like trying to move a brick wall it's so heavy.
So no local Harbor Freight? $189.99
Note: you are beating yourself up by not Center lifting your loads, and keeping the Boom to low. 2 extended C-channels will stop the flex.
Good luck as you learn with this crane and always stay clear of your load.
Get a 1/2” steel plate that’s trailer width and 2 ft wide. That will hold and not flex. Bolt plate to trailer or weld then your hoist. Hoist was backwards
Instead of the added cost of a trailer jack, mounting time, and inconvenience of placement, just get a piece of rectangular steel that will fit through the tiedown, with multiple holes of course for different terrain, and make a bolt on foot. Cheaper, just as effective. Just need to brace that corner. Just my thoughts.
Get a small snatch block. Should help pulling
You need a couple of dollies to put your stuff on so they can roll
When the trailed deck bent downwards, you said "it wasn't the brace weld failing, it was the deck weld". I don't see how that could be possible if the brace was under the deck and supporting it.
He needed to use either washers or a spacer to take up the gap between the trailer deck and his reinforcement braces, or he should have clearance the brace ends for the flanges of his trailer crossbeams to weld the braces flush to the underside of the trailer deck. He left a gap
@@dodgeme1986truckI would've put the braces right up against the deck to better distribute the load. Leaving any sort of a gap is asking for trouble. looking at the amount of movement, I think the weld gave way.
@@MakeitZUPER that's what I was stating the braces weren't flush underneath the deck and there were no spacers to fill the gap which caused the problem
Yep,.. I don't know why he didn't mount it through the channel main frame just a couple inches away. And cope the 1 additional cross member to be flush to the bottom of the deck.
Maybe using a movers dolly on the trailer would assist in placing the load without much effort on your part.
Hey how are ya I found your video because I was looking for a crane similar to this but do you think the vertical pipe can be shortened and still work probably? I need it to be as short as possible.
It should work just fine. It should be an easy modification
I think you got your boom on
Should adjust from flat to up not flat to down.
Heck yeah pretty tough u got it ❤💪🙏
I believe that you have it put together wrong. If you reverse where the arm is attached to the pivot bracket you will have more lift height.
Always hold your saw at 45degree angle
its bending the decking a little reinforcement is needed
You put the top of the crane on backwards lol
Yep,.. what good is a crane if the boom is at ground level?
The jib is backwards ...
One bolt not tightened ...
By ny opinion you have all wrong - position of the crane should be somewhere on the back around trailer wheels so they can take weight. Crane arm is installed opposite than it is designed so your lifting angles are not sufficient enough to lift anything serious or long, etc....
That was painful to watch, learn how to use a portaband! It has a stop/rest for a reason!
Turn ur arm around it will go a lot higher
Using small hoist like that for 10yrs the higher your boom is less stressed your crane is USA engineer
hello from the Netherlands .
thanks for the video .
Sincerely Hollandduck
Thanks for watching!
C channel is stronger the other way.
You mounted it the wrong way….
There’s cheaper ones you can buy new
Design flaw #1. Needs the boom to go higher.
Nope - assembly mistake. Boom mounted backward.
555
Хорошая вещь дураку досталась!
Chinese....strong but CRUDE and UGLY.