***Update*** - I just did the fix today on a second Ocean. This time I did not remove the bracket. If you have a long enough extension for the 10mm socket on the ratchet, you can easily reach one of the nuts on the terminal. Go through the bracket opening on top. The second one required me to use the compact ratchet I used in the video. So it can be done without removing the bracket. That should make things a lot easier!
We found out a part 2 to the fix from engineers at Fisker. The small insulated wire coming from the sensor needs to be pushed or zip tied to the bracket so it’s not touching anything. It’s more important than it seems as European cars have voltage in the negative line that US and Japanese cars don’t. So if the sensor line is too close, it can cause false readings for the sensor.
I ll be honest. Have had 5 different evs from 4 different manufacturers. The issue i have had most or single most problem from all 5 have been with the 12v batteries. This looks like a complete pain in the mother in law and of poor design - why Fisker/M.Steyr ?
Btw , just got done applying PPF myself. Kinda impressed that I did it myself . Next project would to be to tap into the reverse light car to add extra lights when reversing. The reverse camera is quite atrocious at night.
Hi, I am very glad that I found your channel, thank you for all your efforts! Did you notice less or no more warnings on the dashboard after this fix? Or this has nothing to do with random warnings on the dash? Tnx in advance
Six months ago when I did this video it was version 1.10 and the fix reduced some of the telltale icons on the driver screen. The real improvement for me was 1.11 and 2.0 updates. If you watch some of my follow up videos on the 12 V battery, keeping the voltage above 12.0 is important for the subsystems to work correctly.
Great video. It kinda makes sense that it’d be a mix of hardware configuration and software problems leading to the 12v battery problem. If it was just software they probably would have fixed it by now. Hope this does the trick! Maybe a follow-up video where you go battery tender free for a couple weeks?
Well, I only had the battery tender on twice. And that was before I got the monitor installed (coming soon, backlog of editing). I think my low 12V battery warnings were coming right before the HV pack started charging it. Which happens every 2 hours or so. The big problem is that the car waits too long (11.9 V) to charge it back up. Yes, I will be monitoring the change.
Why did they have to make it so complex to reach the 12v. Most other cars, you can reach it in seconds. Does not bode well for maintenance costs. Thanks for sharing this.
This is the part: Super Start Platinum 140RPLT 12V AGM battery www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/platinum/super-start-platinum-agm-battery-group-size-140r/ssbq/140rplt
Great video, I have a question about that emergency plug (green), I pulled the red tab and removed the end and now I can't put it back into place. can you help on this? Thanks
OK, I found the info, it's in the Owner's manual. I put the instructions here: drive.google.com/file/d/1M11Y1Tkc9gqeY4Ng76Ij25fgLCRinv5D/view?usp=sharing
Thank you! I’ve had to jump start mine twice in the last month. It has the correct alignment and I reoriented the middle of the wire slightly because it was pretty tight. I also checked all of the positive terminal connections (always be careful and avoid touching any positive terminal connection to any metal part of the car with a tool…you can however touch the 12 V terminals with your fingers if really needed and you will probably be ok). When I got back in, I received a message that the 12 V battery was low, but the message went away after about 20 seconds. May be my problem is fixed, or could it be something else? I also noticed that the interior overhead button lights and PRND selector lights are on when I get in frequently. Sometimes the lower ambient lights are on too and back passenger lights, but I have all lights set to turn off after 15 seconds. I really hope Fisker fixes this lighting issue in Version 2.2. All interior and exterior lights should be turning off after 15 seconds or the time I select.
If you have had to jump start twice that may indicate the 12 V battery is going bad. I would look into getting it replaced. Yes, the ambient and other lighting has been happening since it has been released. I have noticed less with update 2.0.
Thanks, I did the wire optimization and terminal check after the two jump starts. If I need to jump start again, I will follow your advice and get the 12 V battery replaced.
Awesome video!! Thanks for showing this! I’ll bring it up to Fisker to check this before delivery. Shouldn’t have to do this but I understand as an early adopter it won’t be perfect. I know you’ll keep us posted how it does and if you remove the 12V battery charger setup you have in place! Appreciate you!
Great video and I’m interested if this has a positive impact for you. I’m not impressed with the layout of the front there. 12v won’t last forever and that looks an absolute pain to get to.
Great video and very clear explanation. I had to open my hood today because my 12v battery died (at 3.4v). Before I jumpstart, I will make this fix. Thanks again!
Sadly the UK version is a bit more complicated. there are more bolts to undo including one to a flange on another unit that makes it really tricky to get the bracket out of the way. I just did this half an hour ago and sort of managed to shift the bracket but then moving the battery feed and the sensor feed apart was also more complex. I have tried, but we'll see...
No I haven't messed with anything like that yet. I still have to test the towing package electrical connection. There are several fuse boxes in the car. If I do find something, I'll do a video.
It works well, it keeps a week of data before needing to connect via bluetooth to the phone app. I have a video coming on it, but it's stuck in editing.
***Update*** - I just did the fix today on a second Ocean. This time I did not remove the bracket. If you have a long enough extension for the 10mm socket on the ratchet, you can easily reach one of the nuts on the terminal. Go through the bracket opening on top. The second one required me to use the compact ratchet I used in the video. So it can be done without removing the bracket. That should make things a lot easier!
I thought this has been fixed by Fisker before delivery?
@@gregoryalee2457Apparently not, quite a few people have reported this issue.
@@MTNRanger - Maybe I am wrong but I could swear that Sean said an OTA fixed this issue but reading about it, I don't know how.
We found out a part 2 to the fix from engineers at Fisker. The small insulated wire coming from the sensor needs to be pushed or zip tied to the bracket so it’s not touching anything. It’s more important than it seems as European cars have voltage in the negative line that US and Japanese cars don’t. So if the sensor line is too close, it can cause false readings for the sensor.
Thanks, I’ll look into that for an update video!
I ll be honest. Have had 5 different evs from 4 different manufacturers. The issue i have had most or single most problem from all 5 have been with the 12v batteries. This looks like a complete pain in the mother in law and of poor design - why Fisker/M.Steyr ?
Btw , just got done applying PPF myself. Kinda impressed that I did it myself .
Next project would to be to tap into the reverse light car to add extra lights when reversing. The reverse camera is quite atrocious at night.
I can barely apply protection sheets to my phone. I don't have the patience for installing PPF myself. Good for you!
Thanks man! Your videos are definitely an inspiration to dig deeper! Keep em coming!
Mine was wrong and I fix it Thank YOU I did mine with a 10mm open end wrench
Great, sure there are multiple tools that can do this job.
This is awesome.❤
Do let us know if you see an improvements in cameras not enabling or reduced warnings!
Thanks for sharing!!! 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Hi, I am very glad that I found your channel, thank you for all your efforts!
Did you notice less or no more warnings on the dashboard after this fix?
Or this has nothing to do with random warnings on the dash?
Tnx in advance
Six months ago when I did this video it was version 1.10 and the fix reduced some of the telltale icons on the driver screen. The real improvement for me was 1.11 and 2.0 updates. If you watch some of my follow up videos on the 12 V battery, keeping the voltage above 12.0 is important for the subsystems to work correctly.
Great video. It kinda makes sense that it’d be a mix of hardware configuration and software problems leading to the 12v battery problem. If it was just software they probably would have fixed it by now. Hope this does the trick! Maybe a follow-up video where you go battery tender free for a couple weeks?
Well, I only had the battery tender on twice. And that was before I got the monitor installed (coming soon, backlog of editing). I think my low 12V battery warnings were coming right before the HV pack started charging it. Which happens every 2 hours or so. The big problem is that the car waits too long (11.9 V) to charge it back up. Yes, I will be monitoring the change.
Yes, Great video 📹. Much appreciated 👍🏾 👏🏾👏🏾
Why did they have to make it so complex to reach the 12v. Most other cars, you can reach it in seconds. Does not bode well for maintenance costs.
Thanks for sharing this.
I totally agree, on an EV, the 12V is the most important item for reliability and needs to be easily accessed.
Horrible design
Do you have any idea what type is the 12v battery, as i waiting my ocean to arrive and seems the battery will be flat? Thanks.
This is the part: Super Start Platinum 140RPLT 12V AGM battery
www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/platinum/super-start-platinum-agm-battery-group-size-140r/ssbq/140rplt
Great video, I have a question about that emergency plug (green), I pulled the red tab and removed the end and now I can't put it back into place. can you help on this? Thanks
I haven't removed the emergency plug - that's the kill switch for the HV battery pack. I'll have to look into that.
OK, I found the info, it's in the Owner's manual. I put the instructions here: drive.google.com/file/d/1M11Y1Tkc9gqeY4Ng76Ij25fgLCRinv5D/view?usp=sharing
Thank you! I’ve had to jump start mine twice in the last month. It has the correct alignment and I reoriented the middle of the wire slightly because it was pretty tight. I also checked all of the positive terminal connections (always be careful and avoid touching any positive terminal connection to any metal part of the car with a tool…you can however touch the 12 V terminals with your fingers if really needed and you will probably be ok). When I got back in, I received a message that the 12 V battery was low, but the message went away after about 20 seconds. May be my problem is fixed, or could it be something else? I also noticed that the interior overhead button lights and PRND selector lights are on when I get in frequently. Sometimes the lower ambient lights are on too and back passenger lights, but I have all lights set to turn off after 15 seconds. I really hope Fisker fixes this lighting issue in Version 2.2. All interior and exterior lights should be turning off after 15 seconds or the time I select.
If you have had to jump start twice that may indicate the 12 V battery is going bad. I would look into getting it replaced. Yes, the ambient and other lighting has been happening since it has been released. I have noticed less with update 2.0.
Thanks, I did the wire optimization and terminal check after the two jump starts. If I need to jump start again, I will follow your advice and get the 12 V battery replaced.
Is this a common problem in every Fisker Ocean One? And will they not have serviced this before delivery?
This happens to some of the Ocean at port when they reattach the 12 V battery leads. It's possible that they now fix this before delivery.
Awesome video!! Thanks for showing this! I’ll bring it up to Fisker to check this before delivery. Shouldn’t have to do this but I understand as an early adopter it won’t be perfect. I know you’ll keep us posted how it does and if you remove the 12V battery charger setup you have in place!
Appreciate you!
🎉 amazing video
Awesome video!!! Will try it tomorrow.
Ridiculous we’d have to do this ourselves
You can contact service to have it corrected.
Great video and I’m interested if this has a positive impact for you. I’m not impressed with the layout of the front there. 12v won’t last forever and that looks an absolute pain to get to.
I'll be tracking and noting any changes to the battery and warnings.
Great video and very clear explanation. I had to open my hood today because my 12v battery died (at 3.4v). Before I jumpstart, I will make this fix. Thanks again!
Sadly the UK version is a bit more complicated. there are more bolts to undo including one to a flange on another unit that makes it really tricky to get the bracket out of the way. I just did this half an hour ago and sort of managed to shift the bracket but then moving the battery feed and the sensor feed apart was also more complex. I have tried, but we'll see...
Interesting, thanks for the information. I was unaware of differences between international versions - most likely to be due to homologation.
Hey, would you know how to access the tail light plug? Trying to access it to plug in a backup LED bar for better night visibility.
No I haven't messed with anything like that yet. I still have to test the towing package electrical connection. There are several fuse boxes in the car. If I do find something, I'll do a video.
Great video, thanks! I noticed you installed the same bluetooth battery monitor I picked up, how's it working for you?
It works well, it keeps a week of data before needing to connect via bluetooth to the phone app. I have a video coming on it, but it's stuck in editing.
thank you