I rebuilt my 4l60e too. Lots of fun. I think I may know why you don't have 2nd gear. And likely your 3rd is also MIA too. Specifically, its the ECU needs to be re-flashed. Or, like I did which was I just bought a re-flash unit off a guy that does them for $90. Mine lost 2nd and 3rd one morning and I took it to every shop I could to see if I could get them to run a diagnostic. Well, every single place flat out said I needed to rebuild my trans because it was shot and was why I had lost 2nd and 3rd. So, I found a youtube vid of a guy who made up a switch box using stuff around the house to shift his dragster using a 4l60e and googled my wiring diagram to locate the solenoids and soldered up my own switch box. Found out immediately, my trans was fine, the reason it wasn't shifting was because ECU had crapped out. Ordered new ECU and shifts like new again. Anyway, before that I too dropped the pan replaced solenoids, replaced the servo seals and apply pin and just about everything else everyone thought was wrong. Start with the simple solution, make up a switch box, if nothing else it will be a good tool to have just in case. Oh I see you posted back in July. Well, you probably got it fixed by now. What did it end up being wrong?
Hi @Greg Boswell , could you point me to the directions to make the shift box, I too have the same problem like you and would like to try it before I pull the transmission out and rebuild. Thank you
I pull transmissions all the time on just jackstands in the front only e brake on and rear wheel chocks works great I think your 95% comments were from pansy's
I swapped my 4l60e in the driveway on jackstands... it all went smoothly. The “built” 4l60e ended up costing just under $1100 w a circle d converter. It’s held so far with no issues. I’m preparing for a little more rowdy build in the next few months... it will have a 4l60 in it as well
I’d swap to a heavy duty 4l60e or 4l80e I mean, I plan to turbo mine probably this summer or next year (depending on how things go and how much $ I have) But I’ll have to pull and rebuild my 5.3 since I’d rather it be reliable that just pure guessing. I was told cluster was swapped with 180k mi…engine is solid as far as I know tho. And cluster says 291k.. I’m in process of pulling my trans now and swapping with another 4l60e so I can earn some $ plowing snow lol I lost 3rd and 4th a week ago and a few days ago, reverse started grinding…..so…..yeah..hopefully the new trans works.
Randy, you should reconsider a 4l80e swap. I have the same '00 Silverado 1500 nbs 5.3 turbo long bed, which had a 4l60e. The '00 cross member has a tab facing forward, which you cut and weld facing back. The overall length of the '00 60e and the 80e are the same, so your 60e drive shaft works. You don't need an hd2 kit. A running $135 bargain 80e, with stock converter, takes a beating and won't shit the bed. Get an 80e with the slip yoke, 4.8/6.0 80e flex plate/ spacer, some fluid line to splice together and a dipstick tube. Lt1.com describes simple pin changes at the pcm connectors. 1350 to 1330 u joint? Segment swap the file. I felt unsure, until doing it. Do what you have to for your move. Just keep in mind that you'll do another video, when the 60e shits again. PM me, if you have questions.
I am considering a budget rebuild for my 2007 Yukon XL but the rebuild kit is only half the cost . You also need tools , assembly lube , fluid , cleaner it adds up but I know it's done right and still half the cost of a reman . Also I believe the 4L80E also requires a new 6 bolt flex plate .
How did you remove the neutral safety switch without removing the clips on 13:14 ? . I’m having a problem trying to get the screw under the connected wires and it’s not letting me un plug
Yes that’s exactly my reasoning for rebuilding the 60e at this point rather than doing an 80e swap, it will cost me less time and money. I still plan on doing a transmission swap at some point but this will have to do until I have a bigger budget. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I don't think the jack stands would be a problem, but using the jack stands while on a sloping driveway is. For added safety, I guess you could have put the ramps under the tires in case it did fall off the jack stands.
1jeffr yes That would have worked to put ramps under the wheels. Ended up just moving it into the garage where it was on a level surface not on a slope.
My 4l65 trans is doing the exact same shifting as yours. It did make it for a year with 526 rwhp. I have a 4l80e setting on the stand ready. Been dreading the trans pull.😁
Turbo Tim's Garage yeah I’m hoping mine will last another year or so after I put a rebuild kit in it, then hopefully I’ll have some funds in the budget to do a 4l80e upgrade or Turbo 400
I had someone say the same thing to me when I was talking about pulling the trans on my 2000 Silverado 4X4. They were getting so annoying and wouldn't shut up about it so I dropped and log rolled under the truck from one side to the next. (Truck was still on the ground) Jumped up and said. "Oh yeah you're right, that fucker will squash me like a bug!" Everyone laughed and the person shut up. I wouldn't do something if I wasn't sure it was safe. Not to mention I was going to put ramps under all 4 tires as a backup safety. I used the Jack stands to get that extra height and I always perform a shake test just like when I put a car on a lift.
I don’t know why these people say u r gonna die if u put it on jack stands if these are on good quality as well as condition no worries then, we have use them many times before and no problems accursed make sure the jacks are 3ton and more
Exactly. Sound like folks who never done serious work to their own vehicle or fortunate enough to have a lift. I have (4) 6-ton stands and plan on doing the same thing on my `00 Tahoe.
Myles R it was high enough for doing most of the job, but I had to put it up on tall jack stands again when it was time to actually lower the transmission with the jack and pull it out from underneath the truck.
Jack Stand safety is important. I have been working under cars for 40 years and never had a lift. First the stands themselves, the wider the base the better. I like the 6ton ratcheting type. Obviously, it must be placed on a secure spot on the frame meaning a flat area not prone to slipping. After the vehicle is set use your hands to push on the vehicle from the side. If it moves you did it wrong. Keep applying pressure until you can lean into it like a line backer. Then grab it and pull, back and forth hard as you can. If it passes that test you aren't going to put anywhere near that type of a side load on it from underneath and someone coming up and leaning on it isn't going to kill you. Common sense really, but if you can just push it off the jack stands it isn't safe to be under the car. Better to know that BEFORE you get under the car. Also, using ramps on the rear and jack stands on the front or vise versa, can give you a lot of lift and still retain the same level of safety. I avoid using four jack stands.
Michael Dose good advice, thanks for sharing it. I’m thinking for my next transmission swap I may build some stands out of wood that would support the truck under the wheels instead of supporting the frame. May be doing a 4L80e swap in this truck at some point.
Hugo Ayala if you are sure you have all the bolts out you should be able to grab it by the tail shaft housing and shake it loose. But make sure you have all the bolts out, some of the ones at the top are difficult to see. The alignment pins are probably corroded and could be sticking in their bores but shaking the rear of the transmission should break them free.
Are you Canadian? just wondering (I'm a Buffalonian.) More on topic, why did you remove the converter instead of just leaving it on the flexplate? You got life by the balls there---you're working on a 2WD Fullsize! Try a 4WD Envoy/Trailblazer--heck, even just removing the trans lines--for a challenge!
Yes I’m Canadian. I took the converter off so I could try and flush the old dirty fluid out of it. It’s also easier to make sure the converter is installed correctly when reassembling if it’s not attached to the flex plate.
@@LowbuckLS Forgive me, you sounded Canadian to someone who's spent a great deal of time there. I didn't want to sound like I was criticizing. It's generally faster & easier taking the converter off the flexplate after the trans comes out. YES, of course, install the converter into the trans properly before installing everything into the vehicle. It's easy to cause major damage, hoping/trying to get it engaged properly with the pump rotor, if you leave it attached to the flexplate.
Chock the jack-stands it'll be fine . I did a Duramax clutch/flywheel with a 6 speed , K3500 with stands like those . Hardest part was finding a bit to remove the FW blots .
You shouldn't need to remove the starter to remove the plastic inspection covers on the front of the bell housing. I took them both off doing an oil pan gasket before without touching the starter
I rebuilt my 4l60e too. Lots of fun. I think I may know why you don't have 2nd gear. And likely your 3rd is also MIA too. Specifically, its the ECU needs to be re-flashed. Or, like I did which was I just bought a re-flash unit off a guy that does them for $90. Mine lost 2nd and 3rd one morning and I took it to every shop I could to see if I could get them to run a diagnostic. Well, every single place flat out said I needed to rebuild my trans because it was shot and was why I had lost 2nd and 3rd. So, I found a youtube vid of a guy who made up a switch box using stuff around the house to shift his dragster using a 4l60e and googled my wiring diagram to locate the solenoids and soldered up my own switch box. Found out immediately, my trans was fine, the reason it wasn't shifting was because ECU had crapped out. Ordered new ECU and shifts like new again. Anyway, before that I too dropped the pan replaced solenoids, replaced the servo seals and apply pin and just about everything else everyone thought was wrong. Start with the simple solution, make up a switch box, if nothing else it will be a good tool to have just in case. Oh I see you posted back in July. Well, you probably got it fixed by now. What did it end up being wrong?
I've got to pull a transmission on a 2000 chevy 1500 my dad gave me. What's an ECU? Just trying to learn everything I can. Don't have any experience
@@batimaes1 ECU is electronic control unit. Good luck on yours.
@@gregboswell2843 okay thanks man
Hi @Greg Boswell , could you point me to the directions to make the shift box, I too have the same problem like you and would like to try it before I pull the transmission out and rebuild. Thank you
Same here. How do I make a switch box please?
I pull transmissions all the time on just jackstands in the front only e brake on and rear wheel chocks works great I think your 95% comments were from pansy's
Sitting on four jack stands now trust them way more ramps
I dont even set the e brake...4 stands and two Jack's as backup (front, rear) no problems.
I swapped my 4l60e in the driveway on jackstands... it all went smoothly. The “built” 4l60e ended up costing just under $1100 w a circle d converter. It’s held so far with no issues. I’m preparing for a little more rowdy build in the next few months... it will have a 4l60 in it as well
2001 RedGMC good to hear. I think a lot of guys are too quick to get rid of the 60e. Glad yours is holding up.
I’d swap to a heavy duty 4l60e or 4l80e
I mean, I plan to turbo mine probably this summer or next year (depending on how things go and how much $ I have)
But I’ll have to pull and rebuild my 5.3 since I’d rather it be reliable that just pure guessing. I was told cluster was swapped with 180k mi…engine is solid as far as I know tho. And cluster says 291k..
I’m in process of pulling my trans now and swapping with another 4l60e so I can earn some $ plowing snow lol
I lost 3rd and 4th a week ago and a few days ago, reverse started grinding…..so…..yeah..hopefully the new trans works.
Randy, you should reconsider a 4l80e swap. I have the same '00 Silverado 1500 nbs 5.3 turbo long bed, which had a 4l60e. The '00 cross member has a tab facing forward, which you cut and weld facing back. The overall length of the '00 60e and the 80e are the same, so your 60e drive shaft works. You don't need an hd2 kit. A running $135 bargain 80e, with stock converter, takes a beating and won't shit the bed. Get an 80e with the slip yoke, 4.8/6.0 80e flex plate/ spacer, some fluid line to splice together and a dipstick tube. Lt1.com describes simple pin changes at the pcm connectors. 1350 to 1330 u joint? Segment swap the file.
I felt unsure, until doing it. Do what you have to for your move. Just keep in mind that you'll do another video, when the 60e shits again. PM me, if you have questions.
Exactly what my 05 2500 is doing, it’s slipping right now and when hot won’t go back to 1 or 3. Planning on a rebuild
I am considering a budget rebuild for my 2007 Yukon XL but the rebuild kit is only half the cost . You also need tools , assembly lube , fluid , cleaner it adds up but I know it's done right and still half the cost of a reman . Also I believe the 4L80E also requires a new 6 bolt flex plate .
How did you remove the neutral safety switch without removing the clips on 13:14 ? . I’m having a problem trying to get the screw under the connected wires and it’s not letting me un plug
You ever figure out????
I am having the same problem
I’m really keen to see the 60e stuff, it’s all we can get in this part of the world unless you want a second morgatge.
Yes that’s exactly my reasoning for rebuilding the 60e at this point rather than doing an 80e swap, it will cost me less time and money. I still plan on doing a transmission swap at some point but this will have to do until I have a bigger budget. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I don't think the jack stands would be a problem, but using the jack stands while on a sloping driveway is. For added safety, I guess you could have put the ramps under the tires in case it did fall off the jack stands.
1jeffr yes That would have worked to put ramps under the wheels. Ended up just moving it into the garage where it was on a level surface not on a slope.
My 4l65 trans is doing the exact same shifting as yours. It did make it for a year with 526 rwhp. I have a 4l80e setting on the stand ready. Been dreading the trans pull.😁
Turbo Tim's Garage yeah I’m hoping mine will last another year or so after I put a rebuild kit in it, then hopefully I’ll have some funds in the budget to do a 4l80e upgrade or Turbo 400
I had someone say the same thing to me when I was talking about pulling the trans on my 2000 Silverado 4X4. They were getting so annoying and wouldn't shut up about it so I dropped and log rolled under the truck from one side to the next. (Truck was still on the ground) Jumped up and said. "Oh yeah you're right, that fucker will squash me like a bug!" Everyone laughed and the person shut up. I wouldn't do something if I wasn't sure it was safe. Not to mention I was going to put ramps under all 4 tires as a backup safety. I used the Jack stands to get that extra height and I always perform a shake test just like when I put a car on a lift.
Just watch out for the Harbor freight jack stand recall haha
I don’t know why these people say u r gonna die if u put it on jack stands if these are on good quality as well as condition no worries then, we have use them many times before and no problems accursed make sure the jacks are 3ton and more
Exactly. Sound like folks who never done serious work to their own vehicle or fortunate enough to have a lift. I have (4) 6-ton stands and plan on doing the same thing on my `00 Tahoe.
How was it working with the ramps? Was it up high enough for you? I always use stands, ramps would be easier.
Myles R it was high enough for doing most of the job, but I had to put it up on tall jack stands again when it was time to actually lower the transmission with the jack and pull it out from underneath the truck.
@@LowbuckLS I was able to drop on just ramps but couldn't roll it around had to man handle it
I feel like ramps are. Not high enough
I have a 2005 cadillac escalade 5.3l. How do you determine if a torque converter has gone bad and not the transmission?
@@chrisg1364 take it out of overdrive
Probably a good idea to flush the crap out of the cooler lines.
Jeff H yes I plan to flush out the cooler and the lines for sure. Not sure how I’m going to get the old dirty fluid out of the converter though
I wonder if you could drill a hole in it then weld it up?
Jeff H maybe, or drill and tap a hole for a 1/8” npt pipe plug. That might make it unbalanced though I guess
@@LowbuckLS take the converter to a trans shop and have it flushed
Pour transmission fluid in it thats how you flush them out and poor it out do 5 times in your case
Jack Stand safety is important. I have been working under cars for 40 years and never had a lift. First the stands themselves, the wider the base the better. I like the 6ton ratcheting type. Obviously, it must be placed on a secure spot on the frame meaning a flat area not prone to slipping. After the vehicle is set use your hands to push on the vehicle from the side. If it moves you did it wrong. Keep applying pressure until you can lean into it like a line backer. Then grab it and pull, back and forth hard as you can. If it passes that test you aren't going to put anywhere near that type of a side load on it from underneath and someone coming up and leaning on it isn't going to kill you. Common sense really, but if you can just push it off the jack stands it isn't safe to be under the car. Better to know that BEFORE you get under the car. Also, using ramps on the rear and jack stands on the front or vise versa, can give you a lot of lift and still retain the same level of safety. I avoid using four jack stands.
Michael Dose good advice, thanks for sharing it. I’m thinking for my next transmission swap I may build some stands out of wood that would support the truck under the wheels instead of supporting the frame. May be doing a 4L80e swap in this truck at some point.
Good explanation needed to show bolt sizes and removal tools
180mph on the gauge cluster?
In the intro, on the test drive, I noticed his kilometers were the large number.
I took all the bolts off but I can't separate the transmission from the engine can anybody tell me how to do it
Hugo Ayala if you are sure you have all the bolts out you should be able to grab it by the tail shaft housing and shake it loose. But make sure you have all the bolts out, some of the ones at the top are difficult to see. The alignment pins are probably corroded and could be sticking in their bores but shaking the rear of the transmission should break them free.
@@LowbuckLS thanks a lot for your help that is what I'm going to do tomorrow
you have to pull the starter and unbolt the torq converter from the flex plate if it’s an automatic
Love the videos keep up the great work and remember keep God first and everything else last thanks
Thanks for watching and commenting.
Can God remove and replace my transmission?
At 21:21 , is that a broken bell housing flange that I see. Just wondering if you had trouble with that bolt . great video by the way.
Thomas Harlos yes I did end up having trouble with that top bolt which resulted in that broken bell housing.
@@LowbuckLS was it not accessible? I heard you can reach it easier from the top once you pull the inlet manifold
What’s the microphone thing for on by your flashers
Shane Duffel it’s just the microphone for the hands free/bluetooth feature of my stereo, lets me talk on the phone through the audio system
Lowbuck LS ohhhh, because my pickup has one too and I’ve never found out what it was for.
3 hrs for 1 bolt now I'm scared 😂
Why you not show most important things in video including the tranny coolers line!
Are you Canadian? just wondering (I'm a Buffalonian.) More on topic, why did you remove the converter instead of just leaving it on the flexplate? You got life by the balls there---you're working on a 2WD Fullsize! Try a 4WD Envoy/Trailblazer--heck, even just removing the trans lines--for a challenge!
Yes I’m Canadian. I took the converter off so I could try and flush the old dirty fluid out of it. It’s also easier to make sure the converter is installed correctly when reassembling if it’s not attached to the flex plate.
@@LowbuckLS Forgive me, you sounded Canadian to someone who's spent a great deal of time there. I didn't want to sound like I was criticizing. It's generally faster & easier taking the converter off the flexplate after the trans comes out. YES, of course, install the converter into the trans properly before installing everything into the vehicle. It's easy to cause major damage, hoping/trying to get it engaged properly with the pump rotor, if you leave it attached to the flexplate.
You said in the video that you just recently changed the transmission fluid? That my friend is why your transmission died.
What's the transmission design number on this model truck?
Just like the title of the video, it’s a 4L60E
@@LowbuckLS isn't there a I.D. number on the side of it besides 4L60E?
Is this 2wd or 4x4
2WD
Awesome series man ! . . . You just saved me a butt ton of money, Thanks !
Chock the jack-stands it'll be fine . I did a Duramax clutch/flywheel with a 6 speed , K3500 with stands like those . Hardest part was finding a bit to remove the FW blots .
You shouldn't need to remove the starter to remove the plastic inspection covers on the front of the bell housing. I took them both off doing an oil pan gasket before without touching the starter
before you reinstall the trans, roll that pinch weld back to afford yourself more room.
Randy Richardson good call, thanks for the advice. And usual thanks for watching and commenting, appreciate your input.
Randy Richardson I’ll be removing my trans soon. What pinch weld are you referring to?
@@jaimeocaneda394 the seam/pinchweld where the trans tunnel meets the firewall.
Great info keep it up!
Question. . .Which jack stands did you use? Were they 2 ton? 3 ton?
How long did this take?
Thats like 2 days of work 1 if you have help
Finally found a video of exactly what mine has been doing. Just the other night I lost 4ths gear on the highway. But the 2nd gear vanished months ago
4wd???
Mauricio Chavez no just 2 wheel drive
Thanks u
U sound like ur from Canadia lol ur going from first to third ur 2 4 clutch is burnt more than likely or the band is fried
I.be.afraid.it.fall.on.stands
You.need.to.use.6000.lb.stands.they.be.harder.to.fall
Here is a simple build that you can use safely under your wheels ruclips.net/video/wmdwo3UPQtY/видео.html
Hammer.a.sockle.on.that.drain.bolt
That's.what.mine.done.before.it.stoped.working.it.want.do.any.thing.now.jus.whining.noise
I.got
To.take.mine.out.it.want.do.anythiny
I would just say if you aren't sure how to safety check your jack stands you probably shouldn't be attempting to rebuild a transmission.
Nobody said anything about not knowing how to safety check jack stands