Thanks! I can honestly say it is a lot of practice and repetition. I have often joked with my buddies that I wish I would have practiced with my bottom feeders as much as I practice with the wheel guns!
@@RootinTootinRevo Yeah, I mix it up quite a bit at IDPA. I love shooting revolver (S&W Model 66 2.75") but will go PCC with an MP5 that turns heads. 😁
I have several friends who run K frames and all of them agree that they seem to load cleaner and faster than the big L frames. I need more friends that run MP5s in PCC matches though lol.
Excellent catch - correct, that is a Talo GP100. You will notice I also mix in a "normal" MC in .357/.38 from time to time as well but my main is the Talo version. I have found that I seem to shoot better but just the little bit more weight out in front on the barrel from the full underlug that the Talo version provides. The "normal" MC has a cut underlug and (for me) it moves faster between targets but even with 110PF factory ammo, I still have to settle it a little more on rapid shots as compared to the Talo. I usually run big fat recoil absorbing Hogues (that have the blue gel in the backstrap) on guns but it was done more for commonality - so my S&W and Ruger revolvers feel the same when I am using them for competition. As this season has gone on, I wanted to go back to the regular MC wood grips to see how they felt and so far, I am really enjoying them. I am a strong handed reloader, so for me the wooden grips are just flat out faster for me to get the gun open, empty, loaded, and into action again. Hogues are grippy which in most cases is great except when you need to break your grip a bunch of times in a stage to reload with a revolver. Go back through my videos for more good Talo videos - WV Championship and Rust Belt were both with the Talo GP100. Great spot and thanks for the comment and feel free to ask any questions!
@@RootinTootinRevo I'mma watch all your videos for educational purposes. I'd like to start practicing IDPA rev and I think I prefer Ruger cylinder release, because you can pretty much push the button and the cylinder at the same time and it pops out. Since you use both, do you ever push Smiths and slide Rugers by accident? What holster and speedloader holders do you use for the GP100?
Anyone who shoots revolver is happy to welcome others! Once you run it at a match the first time, you will either hate every waking second of it or it will grab you and you are hooked. Shooting revolver is a lot more "complicated" than I expected when you get into the details - like cylinder release, grips, gun weights, gun reliability, etc. The very basics though for when you start out are to remember to count to 6 over and over again, make your shots count since makeup shots sometimes are not possible or are not worth it. Along with that is reloading - figuring out how you want to reload. I do a strong hand reload - it just fits me and how I shoot. Lots of other guys who are much faster than me do weak handed reload and they could not imagine doing strong handed. Once you have those couple of items down and put a match under your belt, then you can get into the nitty gritty of things like lightening trigger pulls, figuring out what cylinder release you like, grips, sights and all that. This may sound strange, but the Ruger cylinder release is easier to hit and open - you just press in, and the cylinder will open, the S&W is smoother, and I think easier to open but since you are pushing forward it is easy to not quite get it pushed far enough and your cylinder doesn't quite want to open yet. I highly recommend you put revolvers in your hands and see what fits and what works for you - for your hand size, how you plan to reload, whether you are left or right-handed, etc. I am in my third season of only shooting revolver and I have not accidentally opened a cylinder when I did not want to on Ruger or S&W. The releases are placed well enough and if your thumbs are where they should be, you should not be that close to them to accidentally hit either one - even if you have a bad grip or are under heavy recoil. Holsters and speedloaders are easy for both Ruger and S&W. Speedbeez and/or Comp-Tac for holsters for both the revolver and the speedloaders. Revo-gear and Midwest Competitions Works also make nice speedloader holders but Speedbeez is a great place to start. For speedloaders the go to is Safariland Comp III. They are tall so easier to grab, they release well, and are pretty tough. If you watch anything and have questions - by all means ask. Also going to your local IDPA match and seeing if there are any revolver guys there - hit them up and talk to them too. By far, in IDPA and other shooting sports, revolver shooters have been some of the most welcoming and friendly folks I have ever run into.
@@RootinTootinRevo I've been told by an expert IDPA REV shooter to always count your rounds as you said and to never stay with an odd number of extra shots, or you'll have to alpha-reload-alpha every third target instead of reloading during transitions. My previous questions actually was, since you race with both, if you ever get confused and try to open a Ruger cylinder as if it were a Smith and vice versa.
That is absolutely excellent advice. Depending on where you are in the country (as in what IDPA Area you are in), if you are shooting a speedloader gun (SSR) you may be able to dump live rounds on the ground out of the revolver without incurring a penalty. I would advise asking the match director or send a message to your Area Coordinator to verify. That helps with the count too, so you do not have to dump extra shots on target with a danger of hitting a non-threat. On stages that I find are going to be complicated or have a lot of shots where I may or may not need extras (like pieces of steel), I usually break the stage down and try to find hard reload points. By that, I mean, points where no matter what I have in the cylinder, I should be full before the next target/array. So if I bomb some steel plates, have an extra reload and then am coming into a 3 target array with 4 rounds in the cylinder, I know that I should be initiating the reload before I get there no matter what. One of the prime-time revolver skills that pays off the most is learning to make the reloads work in the movement of the stage - we have to reload so much, one of the best ways to gain time is to reload on the move (when legal) and be doing those 2 things at once. I actually have not mistaken one for the other in switching back and forth. To me - the revolvers themselves are just too different and I have not made the mistake in a match. The Ruger trigger pulls are all much longer than S&W, the Rugers balance differently in the hand a little bit, the feel is just different so even under stress, my subconscious brain has not mixed them up.
Nice reloads!
Thanks! I can honestly say it is a lot of practice and repetition. I have often joked with my buddies that I wish I would have practiced with my bottom feeders as much as I practice with the wheel guns!
@@RootinTootinRevo Yeah, I mix it up quite a bit at IDPA. I love shooting revolver (S&W Model 66 2.75") but will go PCC with an MP5 that turns heads. 😁
I have several friends who run K frames and all of them agree that they seem to load cleaner and faster than the big L frames.
I need more friends that run MP5s in PCC matches though lol.
Nice! First time I see someone with the Talo GP100 MC. Are you more comfortable with the regular MC wooden grip?
Excellent catch - correct, that is a Talo GP100. You will notice I also mix in a "normal" MC in .357/.38 from time to time as well but my main is the Talo version. I have found that I seem to shoot better but just the little bit more weight out in front on the barrel from the full underlug that the Talo version provides. The "normal" MC has a cut underlug and (for me) it moves faster between targets but even with 110PF factory ammo, I still have to settle it a little more on rapid shots as compared to the Talo.
I usually run big fat recoil absorbing Hogues (that have the blue gel in the backstrap) on guns but it was done more for commonality - so my S&W and Ruger revolvers feel the same when I am using them for competition. As this season has gone on, I wanted to go back to the regular MC wood grips to see how they felt and so far, I am really enjoying them. I am a strong handed reloader, so for me the wooden grips are just flat out faster for me to get the gun open, empty, loaded, and into action again. Hogues are grippy which in most cases is great except when you need to break your grip a bunch of times in a stage to reload with a revolver.
Go back through my videos for more good Talo videos - WV Championship and Rust Belt were both with the Talo GP100.
Great spot and thanks for the comment and feel free to ask any questions!
@@RootinTootinRevo I'mma watch all your videos for educational purposes. I'd like to start practicing IDPA rev and I think I prefer Ruger cylinder release, because you can pretty much push the button and the cylinder at the same time and it pops out. Since you use both, do you ever push Smiths and slide Rugers by accident? What holster and speedloader holders do you use for the GP100?
Anyone who shoots revolver is happy to welcome others! Once you run it at a match the first time, you will either hate every waking second of it or it will grab you and you are hooked. Shooting revolver is a lot more "complicated" than I expected when you get into the details - like cylinder release, grips, gun weights, gun reliability, etc. The very basics though for when you start out are to remember to count to 6 over and over again, make your shots count since makeup shots sometimes are not possible or are not worth it. Along with that is reloading - figuring out how you want to reload. I do a strong hand reload - it just fits me and how I shoot. Lots of other guys who are much faster than me do weak handed reload and they could not imagine doing strong handed. Once you have those couple of items down and put a match under your belt, then you can get into the nitty gritty of things like lightening trigger pulls, figuring out what cylinder release you like, grips, sights and all that.
This may sound strange, but the Ruger cylinder release is easier to hit and open - you just press in, and the cylinder will open, the S&W is smoother, and I think easier to open but since you are pushing forward it is easy to not quite get it pushed far enough and your cylinder doesn't quite want to open yet. I highly recommend you put revolvers in your hands and see what fits and what works for you - for your hand size, how you plan to reload, whether you are left or right-handed, etc.
I am in my third season of only shooting revolver and I have not accidentally opened a cylinder when I did not want to on Ruger or S&W. The releases are placed well enough and if your thumbs are where they should be, you should not be that close to them to accidentally hit either one - even if you have a bad grip or are under heavy recoil.
Holsters and speedloaders are easy for both Ruger and S&W. Speedbeez and/or Comp-Tac for holsters for both the revolver and the speedloaders. Revo-gear and Midwest Competitions Works also make nice speedloader holders but Speedbeez is a great place to start. For speedloaders the go to is Safariland Comp III. They are tall so easier to grab, they release well, and are pretty tough.
If you watch anything and have questions - by all means ask. Also going to your local IDPA match and seeing if there are any revolver guys there - hit them up and talk to them too. By far, in IDPA and other shooting sports, revolver shooters have been some of the most welcoming and friendly folks I have ever run into.
@@RootinTootinRevo I've been told by an expert IDPA REV shooter to always count your rounds as you said and to never stay with an odd number of extra shots, or you'll have to alpha-reload-alpha every third target instead of reloading during transitions. My previous questions actually was, since you race with both, if you ever get confused and try to open a Ruger cylinder as if it were a Smith and vice versa.
That is absolutely excellent advice. Depending on where you are in the country (as in what IDPA Area you are in), if you are shooting a speedloader gun (SSR) you may be able to dump live rounds on the ground out of the revolver without incurring a penalty. I would advise asking the match director or send a message to your Area Coordinator to verify. That helps with the count too, so you do not have to dump extra shots on target with a danger of hitting a non-threat. On stages that I find are going to be complicated or have a lot of shots where I may or may not need extras (like pieces of steel), I usually break the stage down and try to find hard reload points. By that, I mean, points where no matter what I have in the cylinder, I should be full before the next target/array. So if I bomb some steel plates, have an extra reload and then am coming into a 3 target array with 4 rounds in the cylinder, I know that I should be initiating the reload before I get there no matter what. One of the prime-time revolver skills that pays off the most is learning to make the reloads work in the movement of the stage - we have to reload so much, one of the best ways to gain time is to reload on the move (when legal) and be doing those 2 things at once.
I actually have not mistaken one for the other in switching back and forth. To me - the revolvers themselves are just too different and I have not made the mistake in a match. The Ruger trigger pulls are all much longer than S&W, the Rugers balance differently in the hand a little bit, the feel is just different so even under stress, my subconscious brain has not mixed them up.
You should figure out how to sync your videos with @cptnbrad aka @captincaveman aka @nopastersneeded and display them side by side.
That would monetize me for sure with the amount of views we would get lol.