I have the same tuner on my wr250r also went gig gun exhaust as fmf has been out stock for 2 years now..but the power increase is very noticeable. On gavel roads and the like it will flat out go sideways on you and on pavement the front tire will come up a lot easier
@@hisride I couldn't say for sure I changed my gearing with 14/49 and that made a huge difference in low end tourqe. I did add a little fuel in low to mid and took out a little top seems to work where I live but definitely depends on elevation where you live and ride
I've also done that and I agree! It's hard to document the exact difference though because the speedo is inaccurate now and I haven't corrected it yet.
@@Jesse-ei6hq Yea I am interested in the difference between stock and 13/49 (that is what I have currently) I bought the bike with the 49 rear, never tried stock gearing but apparently it is not that great especially 6th gear.
@@adventureeng9892 Did you have to make any adjustments to the fuel programmer or was it just plug and play? Also, have you tried the no toil filter? Thanks
@@JohnnyBoy919 The programmer was plug and play. There are adjustment options but by default it is tuned for an aftermarket exhaust and airfilter. No I haven't tried the no toil filter but I imagine results would be similar.
Well done mate. Very interesting results. I bought a GYTR pipe for my WRR, but no other power mods. Also changed the rear sprocket to 47. It certainly feels a little bit quicker and better on the trails now. Main noticeable difference is extra torque at low to mid revs. I can now cruise along tight trails in 2nd or 3rd, without having to change up and down as often. Whereas before I was having to drop down gears at every corner or hill to keep the revs up. It's a much more useable bike for the trails now.
JD settings pls, And altitude tested at? I have the JD on my 2013 wr250r. It says it comes set to "off-road" after install I verified settings and 2 or 3 of them were wrong. I corrected, and went testing. I immediately had a bogging/stutter upon punching the throttle at different speeds so played with the accel pmp setting. I reduced it from 5 to 3(factory). This cleaned up that bog. Then I set the idle mix which liked 4. Then I worked from idle up to full. I have AIS, exup, and flapper. Looking for a slip on currently(hoping Q4). I live at 4500ft. My current settings are: Green low 3 Yellow mid 3.5 Red high 4 Blue green idle 4 Blue yellow low mid 4 Blue red accel pmp 3 Q4 exhaust will likely require a bit more fuel. I very happy with it now. Snappy, much better low end, mid is ok, top is spicy as this is where the engine is optimized for.
@@ricebruh596 Sup Ricebruh!? I found a Q4 on Amazon for a raptor 700. This was the only one I could find for sale and I looked all over! So I had to get some cutting and welding done, but it's on and gave an incredible increase over stock! It rips, and I'm stoked hard now! Off idle is punchy, sometimes too much for the amount of throttle twist. So, the settings now: Green 5.5 Yellow 4 Red 3.5 Green/Blue 3.5 Yellow/blue 4 Red/blue 3 Idle(green Blue), and Accel pump(red blue) were the two areas that are the farthest off from the recommendations. Any higher on accel and it's boggy off the hit. And idles like shit unless close to factory setting of 3 to 3.5 Soon I will put in a new plug, go ride for a couple hours, then pull it out to inspect. After that, I'll know a bit more. Fyi, my air filter is a bit dirty currently. I'm thinking I'll leave dirty until after the plug read. It'll give me a more realistic world conditions. My filter is more likely dirty than clean :) Anyways, Hollar back at me in a couple weeks for another update. Oh, and if ya want a FMF Q4 get on Amazon and do some welding or die waiting. Ditching the factory pipe was the biggest uncork. Ride on homies!!
@@chriscote3701 that's my problem right now when i punch the throttle Bikes bogs out .. Only mods I did is slip on and air box mod I might try your settings see if that helps
@@ricebruh596 write down what you're running now. Then try mine. You could also keep yours and just adjust your accel pump to a lower setting. I think this will sort ya out, if not then your likely too rich one one of the other settings is my guess. Hollar back what ya figure out bro. Brap brap ;)
yes, but only if installed at the correct angle using a flux capacitor module to eliminate the centrifugal hypoid inbalance caused by the static electric discharge transfer from your body through the sticker and into the CDI unit.
Did you remove the air box flapper. And the airfilter door? It makes a big difference. I bought mine for the reliability and how nimble it is. I've been thinking about selling my 450 to do a big bore and stroker. But afraid it won't be enough.
Because they are just looking at paper numbers for increase see 2/3 horse power and say don’t bother. Completely forgetting that it not only adds that hp but shifts the use ability range to be lower. Same with programmer. Won’t add 10 hp but will add a couple hp and make the throttle waaay more responsive. Fuel and exhaust netting a 4hp increase on a 29 hp bike isn’t anything to sneeze at
Since its fuel injection , to be honest i wouldnt be surprised to see the stock beeing even a little faster , because without an fp the bike isnt giving as much fuel and air as the exhaust wants..
A WR would be fine but they are quite tall. You might have to look at lowering options if you don't have long legs just for increased confidence in the beginning. The CRF250L is another good option that's a bit shorter, cheaper as well.
John M figured since it’s been 5 months I’d tell you from a view point of someone that doesn’t own one YET and has watched countless videos. Everyone loves that the bike is fuel injected and I’ve never heard people complain about the factory fuel injector. Worst complaints are valves needing to be adjusted out of factory and the chain eats the swing arm. Just get a smaller sprocket and do a quick valve check
@@brianskate024stock fuel injection tubing is fine for a stock motor, if you "uncork" the bike by blocking off AIS, put on a new exhaust, remove the airbox flapper etc then it will run too lean and that's why you need to add fuel.
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
great video thanks for making this
Nice Video and nice Composition to Wr250 👍🏻👍🏻
How about fuel consumption before and after? Did you do any gas mileage comparison?
I have the same tuner on my wr250r also went gig gun exhaust as fmf has been out stock for 2 years now..but the power increase is very noticeable. On gavel roads and the like it will flat out go sideways on you and on pavement the front tire will come up a lot easier
where would you say the power is gained - is it more aadding to the top end or does it gain some low end torque?
@@hisride I couldn't say for sure I changed my gearing with 14/49 and that made a huge difference in low end tourqe. I did add a little fuel in low to mid and took out a little top seems to work where I live but definitely depends on elevation where you live and ride
Idk why i was recommended this but hey i’m here
amazing vid bud! Sybbed!
Nice video..... Very informative
Great vid
hay I have about the same things on my bike including the jd powerComand and I'd love to know how it's tuned for you bke?
very informative, thanks
Cool thanks for doing this vid
Thank you!
If you ever do a sprocket change plz make updated video, i changed mine and it made a huge difference.
I've also done that and I agree! It's hard to document the exact difference though because the speedo is inaccurate now and I haven't corrected it yet.
@@Jesse-ei6hq Yea I am interested in the difference between stock and 13/49 (that is what I have currently) I bought the bike with the 49 rear, never tried stock gearing but apparently it is not that great especially 6th gear.
@@VOILAA how much was the gearing and were you able to install yourself?
Header and no toil filter should improve even a little more than that
I watched the Hermit DaVlog review of the FMF headers he seems to think they make little or no difference. Not sure it would be worth the cost anyway.
@@adventureeng9892 Did you have to make any adjustments to the fuel programmer or was it just plug and play? Also, have you tried the no toil filter? Thanks
@@JohnnyBoy919 The programmer was plug and play. There are adjustment options but by default it is tuned for an aftermarket exhaust and airfilter.
No I haven't tried the no toil filter but I imagine results would be similar.
Not worth the money for the statistics. But the feel is amazing. Night and day difference.
Well done mate. Very interesting results. I bought a GYTR pipe for my WRR, but no other power mods. Also changed the rear sprocket to 47. It certainly feels a little bit quicker and better on the trails now. Main noticeable difference is extra torque at low to mid revs. I can now cruise along tight trails in 2nd or 3rd, without having to change up and down as often. Whereas before I was having to drop down gears at every corner or hill to keep the revs up. It's a much more useable bike for the trails now.
JD settings pls, And altitude tested at? I have the JD on my 2013 wr250r. It says it comes set to "off-road" after install I verified settings and 2 or 3 of them were wrong. I corrected, and went testing.
I immediately had a bogging/stutter upon punching the throttle at different speeds so played with the accel pmp setting. I reduced it from 5 to 3(factory). This cleaned up that bog. Then I set the idle mix which liked 4. Then I worked from idle up to full.
I have AIS, exup, and flapper. Looking for a slip on currently(hoping Q4). I live at 4500ft.
My current settings are: Green low 3
Yellow mid 3.5
Red high 4
Blue green idle 4
Blue yellow low mid 4
Blue red accel pmp 3
Q4 exhaust will likely require a bit more fuel. I very happy with it now. Snappy, much better low end, mid is ok, top is spicy as this is where the engine is optimized for.
Do you have updated settings?? I run aftermarket exhaust and k&n air filter and air box mod ...
@@ricebruh596 Sup Ricebruh!?
I found a Q4 on Amazon for a raptor 700. This was the only one I could find for sale and I looked all over! So I had to get some cutting and welding done, but it's on and gave an incredible increase over stock! It rips, and I'm stoked hard now! Off idle is punchy, sometimes too much for the amount of throttle twist.
So, the settings now:
Green 5.5
Yellow 4
Red 3.5
Green/Blue 3.5
Yellow/blue 4
Red/blue 3
Idle(green Blue), and Accel pump(red blue) were the two areas that are the farthest off from the recommendations. Any higher on accel and it's boggy off the hit. And idles like shit unless close to factory setting of 3 to 3.5
Soon I will put in a new plug, go ride for a couple hours, then pull it out to inspect. After that, I'll know a bit more. Fyi, my air filter is a bit dirty currently. I'm thinking I'll leave dirty until after the plug read. It'll give me a more realistic world conditions. My filter is more likely dirty than clean :)
Anyways, Hollar back at me in a couple weeks for another update. Oh, and if ya want a FMF Q4 get on Amazon and do some welding or die waiting. Ditching the factory pipe was the biggest uncork.
Ride on homies!!
@@chriscote3701 that's my problem right now when i punch the throttle Bikes bogs out .. Only mods I did is slip on and air box mod I might try your settings see if that helps
@@ricebruh596 write down what you're running now. Then try mine.
You could also keep yours and just adjust your accel pump to a lower setting. I think this will sort ya out, if not then your likely too rich one one of the other settings is my guess. Hollar back what ya figure out bro. Brap brap ;)
@@chriscote3701 it runs perfect now thank you I did put accelerator pump back to 3 .
super ❤
Will my new stickers increase my bhp?
ExilityX yep by 2 percent
Only if applied correctly
yes, but only if installed at the correct angle using a flux capacitor module to eliminate the centrifugal hypoid inbalance caused by the static electric discharge transfer from your body through the sticker and into the CDI unit.
@@mattkeno2405 very accurate, thank you sir
What settings did you set your tuner up? And what air filter did you use
What setting in jd jetting tuner did you use
Did you do these mods all at once or one at a time. If the latter what made the biggest improvement?
Did you remove the air box flapper. And the airfilter door? It makes a big difference. I bought mine for the reliability and how nimble it is. I've been thinking about selling my 450 to do a big bore and stroker. But afraid it won't be enough.
Awesome
What settings did you use for the JD Jetting tuner?
What is up with all the misinformation? People everywhere saying exhaust doesn’t help etc etc. it obviously does. I felt this in mine back in the day.
Because they are just looking at paper numbers for increase see 2/3 horse power and say don’t bother. Completely forgetting that it not only adds that hp but shifts the use ability range to be lower.
Same with programmer. Won’t add 10 hp but will add a couple hp and make the throttle waaay more responsive.
Fuel and exhaust netting a 4hp increase on a 29 hp bike isn’t anything to sneeze at
What settings did you use on programmer?
Straight out of the box, plug and play.
I would curious to see the results with just the slip on and no fuel programmer.
Since its fuel injection , to be honest i wouldnt be surprised to see the stock beeing even a little faster , because without an fp the bike isnt giving as much fuel and air as the exhaust wants..
Is the WR a good bike for learner's? I'm thinking of getting one and not sure what to get.
@@agibitable The TW? Seriously? WR250R or CRF250L.
A WR would be fine but they are quite tall. You might have to look at lowering options if you don't have long legs just for increased confidence in the beginning. The CRF250L is another good option that's a bit shorter, cheaper as well.
Thanks guys. I'm about 6ft so i think i should be alright height wise.
I’m 182cm! My WR250x is a perfect bike for me. Yeah you should get it since it’s a good bike for all beginners!
If I was a starter start on a Ktm 85 of Kk 85 safer and easy to handle
Did you have to make any adjustments to the fuel injection controller?
John M figured since it’s been 5 months I’d tell you from a view point of someone that doesn’t own one YET and has watched countless videos. Everyone loves that the bike is fuel injected and I’ve never heard people complain about the factory fuel injector. Worst complaints are valves needing to be adjusted out of factory and the chain eats the swing arm. Just get a smaller sprocket and do a quick valve check
@@brianskate024 smaller rear sprocket? Seems like a larger counter would solve that. was that fixed on later models?
@@brianskate024stock fuel injection tubing is fine for a stock motor, if you "uncork" the bike by blocking off AIS, put on a new exhaust, remove the airbox flapper etc then it will run too lean and that's why you need to add fuel.
good for learning wheelies??
Full exhaust or just slip on?
Just a slip on
Did you also do the air box flapper modification?
I've got the flap taped down to prevent it closing.
Not Worth it at all😂😂😂 complete waste🗑️🗑️🗑️