Auto reversing seems much more interesting now that you demonstrated how the units can line the switches. Was also a great tip about not getting the correct board, SC version for Kato in particular. From previous videos. i get the impression that you are not a fan of metal wheels but will be curious to know how it affects train lengths vs loop size. Thanks again for the great videos.
Yes, metal wheels will be an issue depending on where your isolation joints are placed. in my case, they're at the turnout so as far into the loops as possible. if a car is hanging off the end of the turnout when it switches, i'd have more problems than just the track alignment and polarity. My standard train of about 26 cars fits comfortably in the loop, so even if i had all metal wheels on a train of about 30-40 cars, i could still flip my trains successfully. like all autoreversing, the reverse section needs to be as long as your longest train.
Hi C Mastracci , hope you had a good Thanksgiving . Some good information that is the way to go with a reversing loop . You don’t have to chase the train around the layout to change the switch. I’m finally back to running trains. . Been breaking in some new locomotives. Thanks for sharing. Have a good weekend . 😎😎 👍
I've been working on the number one main. Had to re-lay a section of new track because i reused some old flex and it was just a bit funked up and the big boy was not a fan. Got that laid in place and now it runs much better on new track. about to start working on the number two main. hopefully by this weekend, i'm running double trains in happy little loops again! i also have a new loco to break in - get ready to see that soon!
I love your channel. I mostly 3d print and do scale models. I have an N scale train that i've wanted to make a little "end table tunnel" layout for. I also live in Allegheny County! Feels like I'm chillin with my neighbor!
3D printing is the way of the future. i've benefited from it, but haven't jumped into it just yet. a little too much going on to expand the hobby any further BUT i definitely plan to. i downloaded the software and have been researching the printer options - actually not terribly expensive all things considered. a lot to learn and account for - that seems to be by and large the biggest investment.
Carlos, very informative subject matter covered very well. I do have a question, if you are running metal wheels do you have to have the whole train inside the loop to operate and throw the turn outs? I understand you have a long train run but just wondering about smaller loops.
So I haven't tested it yet - however - I'm guessing yes - the entire train will need to be in the reverse section including any metal wheels on rolling stock or DPUs. If the track was configured in such a way the train could exit prior to the whole thing reversing - it would probably short because you'd end up shorting at both ends and the AR wouldn't be able to match. As it is, my isolation joints are at the turnout so i can't make the loop any larger - which will dictate longest possible train. Otherwise, it'll look like one of those old time 'snake' games where you lose when you run into yourself.
So does the switch go straight after a time, without resetting the power or you throwing the switch? Or does the train run around the reversing loop in the opposite direction next time through?
it does not automatically restart unless it loses power - so a restart of the dcc command/booster or a short circuit. the train will enter and exit the turnout in alternating pattern unless the user interacts with it.
This is a huge unlock for my setup!
Do you know if it has enough power to throw two turnouts?
Auto reversing seems much more interesting now that you demonstrated how the units can line the switches. Was also a great tip about not getting the correct board, SC version for Kato in particular. From previous videos. i get the impression that you are not a fan of metal wheels but will be curious to know how it affects train lengths vs loop size. Thanks again for the great videos.
Yes, metal wheels will be an issue depending on where your isolation joints are placed. in my case, they're at the turnout so as far into the loops as possible. if a car is hanging off the end of the turnout when it switches, i'd have more problems than just the track alignment and polarity. My standard train of about 26 cars fits comfortably in the loop, so even if i had all metal wheels on a train of about 30-40 cars, i could still flip my trains successfully. like all autoreversing, the reverse section needs to be as long as your longest train.
Hi C Mastracci , hope you had a good Thanksgiving . Some good information that is the way to go with a reversing loop . You don’t have to chase the train around the layout to change the switch. I’m finally back to running trains. . Been breaking in some new locomotives. Thanks for sharing. Have a good weekend . 😎😎 👍
I've been working on the number one main. Had to re-lay a section of new track because i reused some old flex and it was just a bit funked up and the big boy was not a fan. Got that laid in place and now it runs much better on new track. about to start working on the number two main. hopefully by this weekend, i'm running double trains in happy little loops again! i also have a new loco to break in - get ready to see that soon!
I love your channel. I mostly 3d print and do scale models. I have an N scale train that i've wanted to make a little "end table tunnel" layout for. I also live in Allegheny County! Feels like I'm chillin with my neighbor!
3D printing is the way of the future. i've benefited from it, but haven't jumped into it just yet. a little too much going on to expand the hobby any further BUT i definitely plan to. i downloaded the software and have been researching the printer options - actually not terribly expensive all things considered. a lot to learn and account for - that seems to be by and large the biggest investment.
Carlos, very informative subject matter covered very well. I do have a question, if you are running metal wheels do you have to have the whole train inside the loop to operate and throw the turn outs? I understand you have a long train run but just wondering about smaller loops.
So I haven't tested it yet - however - I'm guessing yes - the entire train will need to be in the reverse section including any metal wheels on rolling stock or DPUs. If the track was configured in such a way the train could exit prior to the whole thing reversing - it would probably short because you'd end up shorting at both ends and the AR wouldn't be able to match. As it is, my isolation joints are at the turnout so i can't make the loop any larger - which will dictate longest possible train. Otherwise, it'll look like one of those old time 'snake' games where you lose when you run into yourself.
So does the switch go straight after a time, without resetting the power or you throwing the switch? Or does the train run around the reversing loop in the opposite direction next time through?
it does not automatically restart unless it loses power - so a restart of the dcc command/booster or a short circuit. the train will enter and exit the turnout in alternating pattern unless the user interacts with it.