I ran a TA340 prostock with a stupid amount of lift and fast duration on a 1.5-1 valve ratio with valves that all but touched they were so big and a bunch of compression. As a result, the best tune we could get at the time (before computer controlled ignition) had a spark that, as shown on the graph of a scope, would squiggle out and loop over itself because it would actually blow out the spark at its peak. lol. The engine was extremely built on the webbed block of the 340 so it could take some abuse so, although pulling a bit of timing stopped the spark from extinguishing, it lost too much power so, we let 'er ride... But we found the compression point that would blow the head gasket whenever we fired it up, backed it off a couple points and had a fast, bulletproof engine (built by the late, great Jack Patrick of Green Flag Automotive in Valdosta, GA. The point of my stroll down memory lane? People make and usually break their overall engine performance by knowing how timing actually works and what can (and can't) be done with it. Thanks for a great video. You gave a great understanding about the physics of engine performance and it's simplicity of logic, once you understand how all the parts of the system work and that is something you either have... Or you don't. Be a mechanic, not a parts changer/breaker.
I agree with you. But I'm having trouble with my NA 355 12.5 to 1 210 AFR headed 260 264 @ .050 cam engine on VP E85 actually X85. Currently 37 deg locked out timing MSD 6 system. .740 to .800 Lambda, with the richest at top rpm. I can definitely tell that .800 is getting closer to lean but I"m a little uneasy adding more timing. I did have 40 in it when it was richer. Do you think I still have plenty of room to add timing to the 37? Some say with E85 a few degrees of timing doesn't make any more power. Right now it seems to run terrific.
Well said! A lot of people will have detonation with say 87 octane. Then they cure it when they put 93 octane in the tank not understanding what is really happening in the combustion chamber. The 87 is pre ignited due to the heat before the spark plug lights the mixture in the chamber. The 93 slows this down to keep this from happening stopping the pre ignition/detonation. It may just be caused from incorrect timing. Then you go to alcohol that takes more BTU’s than gas (aprox twice as much as you stated) General population buying ethanol thinking they are saving money because it’s cheaper ( when subsidized by the government). If they crunched the numbers they would be surprised. If you save anything it’s not worth filling up more frequently. Depending on the % mixture can change dramatically of coarse . Again great explanation!👍👍👍
Good video , really good coverage . I’d be more curious on when to add more boost vs timing for the particular fuels . Everyone has timing theories that work like peak torque should have the less timing and throwing it all in up top. Maybe a video on both of those topics, timing and boost, when to add, when to take away . Order of operations
Rob thanks for making the videos man! Awesome work. I aside from the knowledge I gotta say when you run the different accent impersonating ‘someone’ from the track or whatever giving bad advice it cracks me up!
Ralph Rubino lots of plug readings and looking at mph/et. If you add a degree and don’t get .05 better et or 1 mph then you’re done. After that point you’re just hurting the engine.
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Awesome video
Quote of the Decade!!! 😂 1:44 Seriously though…..that’s the dang truth!
Next video can you talk about your target AFR’s with the different fuels and motor combinations (NA, boost, nitrous)
And cam timing!
I ran a TA340 prostock with a stupid amount of lift and fast duration on a 1.5-1 valve ratio with valves that all but touched they were so big and a bunch of compression. As a result, the best tune we could get at the time (before computer controlled ignition) had a spark that, as shown on the graph of a scope, would squiggle out and loop over itself because it would actually blow out the spark at its peak. lol.
The engine was extremely built on the webbed block of the 340 so it could take some abuse so, although pulling a bit of timing stopped the spark from extinguishing, it lost too much power so, we let 'er ride... But we found the compression point that would blow the head gasket whenever we fired it up, backed it off a couple points and had a fast, bulletproof engine (built by the late, great Jack Patrick of Green Flag Automotive in Valdosta, GA.
The point of my stroll down memory lane? People make and usually break their overall engine performance by knowing how timing actually works and what can (and can't) be done with it. Thanks for a great video. You gave a great understanding about the physics of engine performance and it's simplicity of logic, once you understand how all the parts of the system work and that is something you either have... Or you don't. Be a mechanic, not a parts changer/breaker.
Keep it coming brother I’m learning as I go... cheaper to learn on a white board sometimes 😎
I agree with you. But I'm having trouble with my NA 355 12.5 to 1 210 AFR headed 260 264 @ .050 cam engine on VP E85 actually X85. Currently 37 deg locked out timing MSD 6 system. .740 to .800 Lambda, with the richest at top rpm. I can definitely tell that .800 is getting closer to lean but I"m a little uneasy adding more timing. I did have 40 in it when it was richer. Do you think I still have plenty of room to add timing to the 37? Some say with E85 a few degrees of timing doesn't make any more power. Right now it seems to run terrific.
Well said! A lot of people will have detonation with say 87 octane. Then they cure it when they put 93 octane in the tank not understanding what is really happening in the combustion chamber. The 87 is pre ignited due to the heat before the spark plug lights the mixture in the chamber. The 93 slows this down to keep this from happening stopping the pre ignition/detonation. It may just be caused from incorrect timing.
Then you go to alcohol that takes more BTU’s than gas (aprox twice as much as you stated)
General population buying ethanol thinking they are saving money because it’s cheaper ( when subsidized by the government). If they crunched the numbers they would be surprised. If you save anything it’s not worth filling up more frequently. Depending on the % mixture can change dramatically of coarse .
Again great explanation!👍👍👍
What happened to the "no prep racing" video? that was hilarious
I love this guy!!!
GREAT VIDEO ROB, THANKS
Spot on
Good video , really good coverage . I’d be more curious on when to add more boost vs timing for the particular fuels . Everyone has timing theories that work like peak torque should have the less timing and throwing it all in up top. Maybe a video on both of those topics, timing and boost, when to add, when to take away . Order of operations
are all eight 02s in header bungs needed for NITROUS Car ? shooting a progressive big shot
I concur. Good stuff.
Great video
Rob thanks for making the videos man! Awesome work. I aside from the knowledge I gotta say when you run the different accent impersonating ‘someone’ from the track or whatever giving bad advice it cracks me up!
How are you judging your timing limit before it detonates while adding fuel?
Ralph Rubino lots of plug readings and looking at mph/et. If you add a degree and don’t get .05 better et or 1 mph then you’re done. After that point you’re just hurting the engine.
Love all your videos but I do disagree with lean Killing in terms of a nitrous motor. Timing kills plugs and motors
Chad B We all have our own opinions. We wish you great success!!
@@RobD828 very true and thanks. Best to you also. Cant wait for the next video