Anyone wondering, the ebrake works on ratcheting systems. When you turn in the piston it resets. Then you ratchet the ebrake at the caliper and pull the ebrake handle until it works, go back and forth. If the caliper ebrake is stuck "closed" it's in neutral. The first caliper is not bad rachet the arm forward and out of neutral.
How do you pull the mechanism out? That’s my issue it’s leaking the seal they used it complete garbage. edit; you can’t. Ford has a special tool to pull the ebrake mechanism which is both hydraulic and fuckin cable driven for some reason. You have to replace the whole entire caliper even if it’s just your ebrake seal that roasted. I’m thinking the ebrake was accidentally left up. But yeah, your ebrake is shot or the seal is fried? Gotta replace the whole entire caliper
Oh wow so The correct way to fix an brake issue is to understand your brake Your brake is a brake an brake all in one it has a ratcheting mechanism when you pull the handle To replace your brakes you need a tool to rescrew the caliper piston back to its say factory setting so you can Install new pads an rotors or you won't be able to install the pads in there correct placement Opening the bleeder valve or disconnect the ebrake or forcing the piston back with a clamp is your first major mistake
Just a quick question. If my parking brake was stuck engaged on one side, how could I manually disconnect it so it doesn't burn my pads before I can fix it?
Hey sorry man, didn't see your comment. You should dissconnect the cable going to the rear calipers and pull the e brake up then back down to see if the cable goes back out freely first. If it doesn't, start with replacing the rear e brake cable. You can leave the e brake cable disconnected from the caliper if you don't wanna replace it right away, but make sure its zip tied out of the way of any moving parts.
If the caliper is still locking after the cable is disconnected then the caliper is no good and you should start with that. There is also 1 adjustment bolt inside the center console. I believe it's a 13mm and you have to take off a small plastic piece that is part of the open arm rest. You're gonna need long extension and a deep 13mm or 15mm socket can't remember.
Is there a way to disconnect the parking brake from one side temporarily? I'm going to get into it tonight and see what I can do but if you could give some advice that would be sweet@
Bought my escape with a loose handbrake and now i did rear brakes and turns out the cable wasnt connected on one side, and after i did that side handbrake got tight, then i did the other side rotors+pads, and after assembly handbrake is loose again
Did you adjust the front cable? Also, i did have a problem with another escape that I drove myself crazy trying to figure out why the e brake wasn't working. Ended up being both calipers. Also, if the cable came off one side, did you make sure that the part where the cable pulls the arm on the caliper is moving freely? Took alot of cleaning to get the arm on this one to move freely.
@@SevTheReaper handbrake mechanism was stuck or broken. found out because the escape started reeking of burnt clutch. went to a junkyard and picked a caliper from assortment of fords and mazdas. the 2003 mazda3 has the exact same caliper. i got mine off a 2014 escape with some miles on it but the caliper was good. took out the piston - no rust. seals like new. handbrake works good now. people talk down about fords but i like that you can get parts from a junkyard.
@Вася I actually love this year range for the fusion and escape. I've bought, sold, and worked on at least 50 of them with high mileage. None of them had any major issues, if any. This one was definitely time-consuming, but not that bad. The biggest job I've had to get done was a turbo, and it was $500 to get fixed. For a turbo job, that is cheap. My sister and brother both have fusions in the same year range. They've had zero issues, except for a turbo job on my bros, which again was cheap for a turbo job. Compared to all the other manufacturers in this year range, they are by far the least problematic and nicest to drive. Don't get me started on the pos gmc and chevys 2010 and up.
Most of the time the calipers are junk. Last 2 that I had, both the calipers needed to be replaced. If it was any other car I would have been surprised that both went at the same time.
@redihoxha2940 You're gonna have to replace the calipers, the spring isn't something you can get separately. Just make sure it's not the cable that is causing the problem.
Anyone wondering, the ebrake works on ratcheting systems. When you turn in the piston it resets. Then you ratchet the ebrake at the caliper and pull the ebrake handle until it works, go back and forth. If the caliper ebrake is stuck "closed" it's in neutral. The first caliper is not bad rachet the arm forward and out of neutral.
How do you pull the mechanism out? That’s my issue it’s leaking the seal they used it complete garbage. edit; you can’t. Ford has a special tool to pull the ebrake mechanism which is both hydraulic and fuckin cable driven for some reason. You have to replace the whole entire caliper even if it’s just your ebrake seal that roasted. I’m thinking the ebrake was accidentally left up. But yeah, your ebrake is shot or the seal is fried? Gotta replace the whole entire caliper
Hmm? It would have been nice to actually see you do it but thanks.
Oh wow so The correct way to fix an brake issue is to understand your brake
Your brake is a brake an brake all in one it has a ratcheting mechanism when you pull the handle
To replace your brakes you need a tool to rescrew the caliper piston back to its say factory setting so you can Install new pads an rotors or you won't be able to install the pads in there correct placement
Opening the bleeder valve or disconnect the ebrake or forcing the piston back with a clamp is your first major mistake
Just a quick question. If my parking brake was stuck engaged on one side, how could I manually disconnect it so it doesn't burn my pads before I can fix it?
Hey sorry man, didn't see your comment. You should dissconnect the cable going to the rear calipers and pull the e brake up then back down to see if the cable goes back out freely first. If it doesn't, start with replacing the rear e brake cable. You can leave the e brake cable disconnected from the caliper if you don't wanna replace it right away, but make sure its zip tied out of the way of any moving parts.
If the caliper is still locking after the cable is disconnected then the caliper is no good and you should start with that. There is also 1 adjustment bolt inside the center console. I believe it's a 13mm and you have to take off a small plastic piece that is part of the open arm rest. You're gonna need long extension and a deep 13mm or 15mm socket can't remember.
Is there a way to disconnect the parking brake from one side temporarily? I'm going to get into it tonight and see what I can do but if you could give some advice that would be sweet@
Elbow grease, use a screwdriver and a c clamp to the caliper and the lever to keep it back
Bought my escape with a loose handbrake and now i did rear brakes and turns out the cable wasnt connected on one side, and after i did that side handbrake got tight, then i did the other side rotors+pads, and after assembly handbrake is loose again
Did you adjust the front cable? Also, i did have a problem with another escape that I drove myself crazy trying to figure out why the e brake wasn't working. Ended up being both calipers. Also, if the cable came off one side, did you make sure that the part where the cable pulls the arm on the caliper is moving freely? Took alot of cleaning to get the arm on this one to move freely.
@@SevTheReaper handbrake mechanism was stuck or broken. found out because the escape started reeking of burnt clutch. went to a junkyard and picked a caliper from assortment of fords and mazdas. the 2003 mazda3 has the exact same caliper. i got mine off a 2014 escape with some miles on it but the caliper was good. took out the piston - no rust. seals like new. handbrake works good now. people talk down about fords but i like that you can get parts from a junkyard.
@Вася I actually love this year range for the fusion and escape. I've bought, sold, and worked on at least 50 of them with high mileage. None of them had any major issues, if any. This one was definitely time-consuming, but not that bad. The biggest job I've had to get done was a turbo, and it was $500 to get fixed. For a turbo job, that is cheap. My sister and brother both have fusions in the same year range. They've had zero issues, except for a turbo job on my bros, which again was cheap for a turbo job. Compared to all the other manufacturers in this year range, they are by far the least problematic and nicest to drive. Don't get me started on the pos gmc and chevys 2010 and up.
I don't know what's the problem with mine, the spring doesn't turn the arm and wire back
Most of the time the calipers are junk. Last 2 that I had, both the calipers needed to be replaced. If it was any other car I would have been surprised that both went at the same time.
@@SevTheReaper means that i need to replace the calipes?
Or only a spring...looks like the spring doesn't have enough power to push
@redihoxha2940 You're gonna have to replace the calipers, the spring isn't something you can get separately. Just make sure it's not the cable that is causing the problem.
@@SevTheReaper the cable is free