Aputure Amaran P60c & P60x Review | Budget LED Panels Redefined
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- Опубликовано: 6 июл 2024
- In this video I review the Amaran P60c and P60c, two new budget LED panel lights from Aputure.
These are my new go-to recommendation for budget LED panels because they are well made, include a ton of features, and support the highly coveted Aputure Sidus Link mobile app.
Another one of my favorite features is that each individual LED has a focusing lens in front of it, so these lights have a beam angle of 45 degrees for greater brightness and control.
Did I mention that they include a custom padded carrying case, softbox, and grid too?
For the price, the Aputure Amaran P60c (RGBWW) and P60x (bi-color) are hard to beat, and in my opinion, have redefined what we should come to expect from budget LED panel lights.
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== LINKS ==
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Aputure Amaran P60c (RGBWW) - geni.us/aputureamaranp60c
Aputure Amaran P60x (Bi-Color) - geni.us/aputureamaranp60x
Compare these lights using my Light Comparison Tool: newlayer.com/gear/lights/comp...
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== TABLE OF CONTENTS ==
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0:00 - Intro
0:32 - Carrying Cases
1:12 - Included Softbox & Grid
2:00 - Build Quality
2:24 - Battery Power & Charging!
3:36 - Fan Noise
4:11 - Brightness & Color Accuracy
6:39 - Features & Controls
8:38 - Green/Magenta Tint Control
9:06 - Mobile App Control
9:25 - Pricing & Final Thoughts
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== CONNECT ==
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Instagram: / newlayercom
Facebook: / nwlyr
Twitter: / nwlyr 
Хобби
![[NON TLDR] Amaran p60x vs Amaran p60c Review: Which should you get?](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/55h6tF3UEEQ/mqdefault.jpg)
![[NON TLDR] Amaran p60x vs Amaran p60c Review: Which should you get?](/img/tr.png)
All I'm saying is that you had better watch out for Aputure in 2022 😱😱😱
Any sense if it’s updates or new products that’s worth watching out for?
@@108u9 They keep releasing new Aputure and Amaran lights and they are killing it. I am excited to see what new products they come out with in 2022!
Great job! I was throughly impressed with these lights as well. Especially that P60c!
Thanks. I wasn't a huge fan of the 100/200/d/x, not that they were bad at all, just not groundbreaking for me. These on the other hand, are an instant recommendation and it will take something insane to beat them for the price.
Just here to show some love. Love these lights.
Thanks for the support, me too :)
This is so sick! Now I can do soft hop framework stuff.... for the low 😈
I am more excited about them than I seem in the video haha. I was coming off strep throat and only like 50% back to normal 😅
Great video as always. How good is the softbox? Would you consider this setup light + softbox as you desk light for videos like this one?
The softbox is great, just not quite as big as a COB light + softbox. My light is 2' x 2', but these are closer to maybe 12" x 16" with the softbox on, so definitely softer than a bare panel. If you are using them at a pretty close range, they would be perfect for lighting talking head, etc.
I’m a newbie. Can any other type of diffusion be used to create larger light source, like shooting though a white reflector?
Nice, helpful video. I had a chance to demo the P60C and was impressed with it. Plan to use it as a key light for my small setup. Now, since I don't have the use for an RGB light ( Have a Godox M1) is the P60X a better choice considering the smaller form factor and almost similar output?
Thanks! If you don't need the RGB, I'd get the P60x because it's small and cheaper and the output is comparable.
@@NewLayer Thanks again. It's now down to the P60 and the ML60. I had the FL100 also in mind. So much for choices
My P60C just arrived today before I left for work, so haven't had much time yet to play with it and get familiar. I did a lot of research on lights as I am in the process of upgrading my game. This light seemed like a no brainer. It ticks all the right boxes for me, is an incredible value with quality, and is a Must Have in my lighting kit. It is likely going to be my most used light. This past summer I got their Amaran 100d. Now I am just waiting for the COB 60d lights to come out. I will probably get at least a couple of them. The battery power really closed the deal for me. Aputure and their Amaran line is responsible for me to up my game so much.
My thoughts exactly! You might be able to save a tiny bit of money with something else, but there's drawbacks to be had, and really the P60 lights are as perfect as can be for the price!
I really wonder which one of the budget bicolor LED panels you'd recommend if color accuracy was the most important metric. I'm looking to primarily use it in a small painting studio with photography in mind. From comparing different options on your website it looks like the neewer 660 might be the best option even though it came out quite a while back it even seems to compare quite nicely to the P60x if brightness isnt that big of a concern?
i much appreciate your videos btw Thanks!
Honestly, any light I've ever reviewed will be just fine. It's very hard to find a modern LED that has a glaring issue with color. The much more important thing is to properly set your white balance and tint. Ideally, you'd use a color card and create a custom profile for the most accurate colors. Whenever I take photos of art, I do that, and they come out amazing!
@@NewLayer I will definitely look into that! thanks!
Good review my friend
Thanks!
Hey JT, any thoughts on mounting the lights facing straight down off the 1/4”-20 thread? Do you think it would be too heavy? (E.g. for a top light) If so, any ideas what might be a solution for such a setup?
Also does the colour picker camera feature on Sidus work with the RGB model?
If you tighten the 1/4"-20, the pressure is actually put on the shoulders of the spigot adapter, not shearing the threads or screw portion itself. If you use a tripod head and attach the light to a quick release on that, the shoulders (flat part of the plate) are even bigger so that would be the best solution I think.
I don't recall testing that exact function on Sidus Link for that light, but it should work just fine. Next time I get them out I'll try to remember to check.
@@NewLayer thanks for mounting info. Wondering if you have an explanation as to why the force is on the shoulder of the spigot/plate? I’m curious because that I’d think that the male thread is bearing at least some the load. Like hanging an overly heavy object on a nail?
I can shed some light on the 1/4-20 screw forces. With the spigot adapter screwed tight against the light fixture, it cannot be compared to hanging something on a nail on a wall because that object is only in contact with the nail, and the nail takes all the gravitational force, and transfers that force to the wall with the minimal surface area of the nail . In the case of the light fixture and spigot mount, the fixture is in effect PRESSED against the flat face of the spigot mount, creating much more surface contact. There is force of the fixture pressed against that surface imparted by the screw (linear force rather than just shear force). This tightness causes some of the weight of the fixture to be transferred to the face of the spigot adapter. This greater surface area relieves some of the weight from the screw.
I am a Journeyman Toolmaker and am familiar with such principles of mechanical design. I hope that helps. Lots of words, but I hope I was able to get the information across effectively.
@@northcoaststudios Thanks for adding those details! It's actually quite surprising how much a 1/4"-20 screw can hold if it's pulling whatever is mounted onto another surface like this :)
@@NewLayer - You're welcome. Yes, quite impressive. I was concerned about a 5/16 screw holding a chain to a hoist and lifting 1,500 pounds. I looked up the shear strength of a Grade 8, 5/16 screw and found it was just over 9,000 pounds. Of course the 1/4-20 screws we are using are just "house-hold" strength and are nothing like a Grade 8 screw, but the surface area mentioned fortunately makes a difference. I believe I am going to be getting a better adjustable bracket for it thought. I've seen other reviews where it was demonstrated to be insufficient in holding a radical adjustment. I am not complaining though, for the price of this light.
Since the 60x is smaller, do you think it could be used as a fill light on a small production set?
I think so. It's about 2/3 stops brighter than a 60 watt COB bare bulb (newlayer.com/gear/lights/compare?light1=Aputure+Amaran+60x&light2=Aputure+Amaran+200d), so from 1 meter you'll get full proper exposure at ISO 100, 1/50 sec, and f/6.3, which is a good amount of light. A lot of video is shot at higher ISO, so you should have some leeway, especially as a fill light. Hope that helps.
@@NewLayer thank you so much 🙏🏾
Do you recommend Gvm 1500D over this because of the value for 3 light kit ?
That's for you to decide since it's highly dependent on the importance of budget to you. You can definitely create amazing content with the GVM lights, and the more you buy, the bigger the savings, as you saw!
@@NewLayer gotcha thank you
how does the p60c compare to the gvm 1200d at that price point of 369?
P60c is 1 full stop brighter, built way better, and has the unbeatable Sidus Link mobile app Vs the GVM app. The case is nicer, and it includes the grid and softbox, where the 1200d does not for the base price. So if you can swing it, I highly suggest the P60c. Hope that helps.
Quick Q: Nanlite Forza 200 or Aputure 120 ds II ? Cheers m8!
Normally I'd ask you a few questions about your needs Vs. budget, but right now the 120d II is on sale and cheaper than the Forza 200, so go grab it now! geni.us/aputurels120dii
great vid. thanks! i just have the gvm 800d RGB led lights lol. they kinda hurt my eyes whenever i look into them :p
Haha, understandable. I find a lot of people aim to get settings like 1/50, f/8, ISO 100, which ends up making it nearly impossible to open your eyes. Not saying you're doing that too, but it's funny.
For video, a good range is around 1/50 second, f/2.8-4, ISO 200-400 or something equivalent.
A Philips Energy Light. Usually used to treat lack of sunlight during the winter. They have max. 10,000 lux and are adjustable. If you had one, wouldn't this be a really smart (free) lighting for interviews, once correclty positioning of course?
I'm not familiar with that specific light, but 99% of non-filmmaking specific lights have very low color accuracy (CRI/SSI), poor green/magenta tint, flicker, etc. so they are just not suitable for video.
The P60C surely is fun with it's colors, but if you are doing some type of run&gun remember that the P60X is half the weight for basically almost the same daylight output (2 vs 1 kg). And a bit smaller too.
For sure. RGB functionality can be alluring, but definitely consider whether you actually need it.
I got the neweer 660 rgb pro. Love it
Good light, glad you are loving it!
I have no use for rgb lighting. Why should I go for C instead of X?
The only reason would be for green/magenta tint control in CCT mode, although that is a huge bonus, and I'd argue it's almost a must-have if you plan to match other lights in your scene. Hope that helps!
Having paid about the same for their Amaran HR672 panel not too long ago, I'm bitter! That price is way less than I expected and you get a crapload more with the P60C than the HR672. Not bad Aputure. Not bad.
When you put it like that, they are an even better deal! These are closer to Aputure lights at Amaran prices, whereas the 100/200/d/x are definitely in the budget realm all around.
The only mayor downfall might be that the P60X/C only offers a 45 degree beam angle, whereas the HR672 panels in the daylight versions did have a beam angle of 60 degree (WIDE) and 25 degree (NARROW). Also the remote is gone. SidusLink is not always the best option.
@@GrenlandUnderVann I agree. I think 45 degrees is the most useful single beam angle, but sometimes there's better options, even though you can make 45 work in 99% of scenarios.
And you are right again, SidusLink is amazing, but sometimes you want a dedicated remote, so people should keep that in mind!
You can fit both the softbox and grid into the small pocket its not an issue
The softbox fits relatively easily, although it still bulges out a lot in my opinion. If you absolutely smash it in there, the grid fits too. But it's like overpacking a suitcase and having to sit on it to get it to close. To me it's clear that they didn't design it with the purpose of fitting that inside, because it's difficult and looks bad.
Unless they changed the grid design since I got mine, the grid is so thick and rigid that it completely deforms the shapes of the case on top of the difficulty getting it in. If the small pocket was 1/2" deeper, it'd completely eliminate those annoyances and would be perfect. Long story short, I stand by my opinion that it was an oversight in the case design, or perhaps error in the first production run of cases.
This also only applies to the RGB light. The bi-color is smaller, and the case is smaller, and it's completely physically impossible to fit the grid into the pocket on that one. Again, unless they've changed the grid design to not have a rigid frame.
One note: CRI may now be considered obsolete to TM30 and SSI but it’s important to remember, relative to say a low R9 value, the problem with CRI was not in the value of the individual color metrics but rather in the limited number of colors (15) in the CRI metric…. Seeing a low R9 in a CRI score should still give us pause… it still indicates an issue in the red itself but the overall CRI score becomes problematic because it relies on too limited a selection of colors allowing manufacturers to “game” the system etc and therefore does not give us a true understanding of overall color metrics, but it does tell us a lot about these specific 15 colors.
Agreed. A good CRI or individual R numbers doesn't really mean much to me, but when there's a low number somewhere, it requires extra investigation. If the SSI and other metrics check out, then I consider it a "false alarm" and it shows that there should be no issues with the light in real world use.
The gaming comes in when I get a high CRI/TLCI, but some individual R numbers suffer and the TM-30/SSI are also lacking.
@@NewLayer the other metrics use many more colors, but getting a high SSI or TM30 does not make R9 red suddenly better or a false alarm… this is def something I’ve been trying to dig a bit deeper into because I’ve tested lights with overall excellent color metrics but a low R9 value. Some manufacturers have been claiming that the current color metric standards don’t really hold up relative to the chipset in their lights… I’m not sure where the real truth lies, but low R9 relative to skin tone does give me pause for sure.
@@NYCgaffer Correct, it doesn't necessarily discredit any poor measurements. I put false alarm in quotes, meaning that if some metrics are a below average while others are above average, overall they balance out in my opinion. Others might disagree, but that's why I share it all, so you can take my opinion and the stats together and make the choice you want.
R9 is a value for one type of Red, deep saturated red that is out of gamut on many cameras, not for Red itself. The TM-30 metric combines the scores of 8 different commonly occurring shades of Red to give a more accurate description of Red rendering. This score average is group 1 of the TM-30 metric. In addition TM-30 shows hue accuracy and saturation. The CRI R9 combines these two scores, so you don't know if there is a hue accuracy problem or a under/over saturation problem or if both are contributing to the score. Another problem with r9 reproduction is that it requires deep reds bleeding into IR from the light source to get a high score. This part of the light spectrum is filtered out by your cameras IR cut filter. Without the IR cut, deep blacks and blues go rusty, colors shift and appear nothing like how your eye perceives them. The idea is that Tungsten is the perfect score and how color appears under it, is the target. But Tungsten has a major amount of IR, and has to have it's spectrum filtered so that your camera sees color as your eyes do.
@@nshea3286 Thanks for sharing all those extra details about IR!
Every metric has strengths and weaknesses, so it's important to consider CRI, TLCI, TM-30, and SSI altogether for sure. I think TLCI is the least useful, as long as whatever CRI score you see includes the extended individual R values.
TM-30 is also very helpful, but is the hardest for most people to grasp. SSI in my opinion is the easiest to understand and most useful as a single metric.
What is the difference between Amaran P60x and Neewer 660 rgb panel? Does it worth triple the price?
The P60x is the bi-color version, so I presume you mean the P60c vs the Neewer 660 RGB.
The Neewer is a good light, but just not bright enough to be used with any kind of diffusion really. It's a good accent light, but the brightness, wireless control, and build quality of these lights is far superior, and they come with both the softbox and grid which is very important.
If you just need a little accent light, the Neewer could be a better choice, although, I'd rather just get a pocket light instead of that's the case, and the P60c for more serious lighting. Hope that helps!
@@NewLayer Ok so if I were looking for an accent light you would advise me to take a pocket light? Like for example Falcon Eyes F7
@@gianmarcomartini1671 Yep, that's what I'd do. The F7 is nice, but relatively expensive and very heavy for its size, but if those things don't bother you and you like it otherwise, it's a good choice.
I thought the falcon eyes F7 was a good compromise for a pocket rgb light that was very powerful and portable, with a good battery and also equipped with a diffuser and grille. The aputure mc also seems interesting to me, but I'm afraid it's not very powerful for what it costs.
@@NewLayer Do you recommend me any pocket rgb light in particular since you told me that the falcon eyes f7 might not be the best choice for its price?
It is a bit unfair, that how expensive these lights are in Germany. €450, for p60c. That is like $500. :(
Thanks for sharing, great video.
Ouch, that definitely makes them a harder sell :-/
@@NewLayer yes JT Man.. There is a significant difference. Like the Forza 200 you suggested in other comment, it is €700.
You are doing such an amazing job with this channel. I really appreciate the good info you share. Wish you were in Germany too; then we would have shot a short-film together ;)
First!
Woohoo! Good to see you around Paul :)
@@NewLayer Great to see you back!
That was boring, only praises and praises. I wish I was not so badly tempted with these new lights... and there are also the cube COBs waiting for review. What was that? Amaran 60d?
That's going to be a nightmare BTW: Aputure 60d, Aputure Lightstorm 60d, Aputure Amaran 60d...
LOL, hey, I mentioned the accessories not fitting in the cases, the low CRI I found, and the fact that they cost more, but really they are just exceptionally good. The only other thing that might be cool is if they had a u-yoke, but that would make them much bigger.
@@NewLayer not enough complaining, the lights still look like worth buying!