You made that look too easy😅. Thanks for the information. I'm currently resurrecting a 2002 sportsman 400 and finding out the fun of working on a 20 year old machine which was so far maintenance free 😆
Thank you for the positive feedback. I hope it helped. Yeah I’ve just been working on these things for so dang long. I don’t want to miss it but sometimes I rebuild them in my sleep. Lol
Thank you for taking the time and sharing your expertise. This is exactly what I needed to see before I start replacing rear boots and bushings on my son's 2004 late Polaris Sportsman 700 EFI Twin. Have you made other videos pertaining the 2004 Polaris Sportsman 700 EFI ? For instance replacing fuel pump; servicing and flushing radiator; changing all the fluids (transmission, front and rear gearcase, engine oil). Thanks again.
Thanks for the comment, those are great ideas for videos though. I should , I have similar Atvs here to cover those topics, thanks for the feedback. Have him help you so he knows how, or if you supervise that’s always better lol
Do it before moisture and dirt gets in there or you’re gonna be replacing the whole axle, although you can replace the whole axle for not much more, 🤷♂️
Great video! Makes thing so easy. I can only hope mine go so easy. A couple of questions. I have a 2002 Sportsman 700 that has the gear side boot ripped open. Since these are the original boots, I am looking to replace both boots while the axle is off. Can I just slide the gear side boot off the wheel side while I have it disassembled or do I need to remove the inboard joint? Also, where did you get the “parrot” pliers and tube of grease? TIA
I had to use a come along on both sides hooked to a T post I pushed deep into the ground with the skid loader, then when it was super tight I hit the fence post with a sledge and got one side out. Then I just hammered the other out from the other side
If you have any trouble with axles not coming out, soak and turn them & repeat with Blaster (some brand of penetrating oil ) May even for a day or so .. so you don’t ruin your bearings or your case of your seals. A good soaking will make them come out way easier.
Because they are a sealed bearing, and you can damage the seal if you try. Once you hurt the seal it won’t last long….There are tools that you can grease them with, but usually you do more harm than good, (just replace the bearing)rather than trying to grease it because more than likely if it needs grease it’s too late to save it anyway.
One other reason is if you get too much grease in the cavity where the bearing assembly goes remember you sandwich the bearing in the carrier with the axle and torque it to a certain specifications & there is nowhere for the extra grease to go and you can hydraulically break the housing/ carrier or whatever when you torque it down.
Hi there, yeah so the front axle nut torque is 75 foot pounds, and that axle spline and thread protector. Is actually an old Ford seal driver it’s made out of aluminum so really you could go down to your machine shop and you can have one made out of aluminum but that’s actually just an old Ford spindle seal driver
What about that little ring you had to spread? You didn’t put it back or it’s wrapped around before you popped it in? I’m a greenhorn here trying to do my own work
If you are referring to the ring in the cv joint it lives and is retained in the joint and you are just releasing it from the groove in the end of the axle.
Usually, it’s about $50-$60 per boot and usually costs $75-$100 to have a repair shop change it. Depends on how long the boots have been torn whether the axle is worth replacing or not.
@@allwegottadois okay thanks for the reply wish I had someone like you around me who worked on four wheelers all I have are big name shops that want an arm and a leg just to look at it
@@417garage9 I learned my lesson getting ripped off by the Polaris shop where I bought my 850 XP. They charge way too much for repairs as do other shops. I don't know how they can get away with it cause they only pay their mechanics around $30 an hour and the shop gets 5x that. Best to find a cheap under-the-table mechanic or fix it yourself and learn something. Lots of good RUclips videos to help guide you.
![Small Rubber Balls For A Quiet Air Compressor? | [0043] 💨](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/KyUflgU8vvc/mqdefault.jpg)
You made that look too easy😅. Thanks for the information. I'm currently resurrecting a 2002 sportsman 400 and finding out the fun of working on a 20 year old machine which was so far maintenance free 😆
Thank you for the positive feedback. I hope it helped. Yeah I’ve just been working on these things for so dang long. I don’t want to miss it but sometimes I rebuild them in my sleep. Lol
That clip is a mother and lover to spread out.
Yeah, it helps to have a good snap ring pliers makes all the difference
Thank you for taking the time and sharing your expertise. This is exactly what I needed to see before I start replacing rear boots and bushings on my son's 2004 late Polaris Sportsman 700 EFI Twin. Have you made other videos pertaining the 2004 Polaris Sportsman 700 EFI ? For instance replacing fuel pump; servicing and flushing radiator; changing all the fluids (transmission, front and rear gearcase, engine oil). Thanks again.
Thanks for the comment, those are great ideas for videos though. I should , I have similar Atvs here to cover those topics, thanks for the feedback. Have him help you so he knows how, or if you supervise that’s always better lol
great video, thank you for taking the time to make it:)
Great job.
I definitely have to replace my rear left inner boot
Do it before moisture and dirt gets in there or you’re gonna be replacing the whole axle, although you can replace the whole axle for not much more, 🤷♂️
Great video! Makes thing so easy. I can only hope mine go so easy. A couple of questions. I have a 2002 Sportsman 700 that has the gear side boot ripped open. Since these are the original boots, I am looking to replace both boots while the axle is off. Can I just slide the gear side boot off the wheel side while I have it disassembled or do I need to remove the inboard joint? Also, where did you get the “parrot” pliers and tube of grease? TIA
Hey there, yes you can slide the inner boot off if you already removed the outer cv & boot , the pliers are from Amazon, and lots too choose from.
I had to use a come along on both sides hooked to a T post I pushed deep into the ground with the skid loader, then when it was super tight I hit the fence post with a sledge and got one side out. Then I just hammered the other out from the other side
If you have any trouble with axles not coming out, soak and turn them & repeat with Blaster (some brand of penetrating oil ) May even for a day or so .. so you don’t ruin your bearings or your case of your seals. A good soaking will make them come out way easier.
Thanks man this will help
Why would you not grease the wheel bearings as you’re putting it back together?
Because they are a sealed bearing, and you can damage the seal if you try. Once you hurt the seal it won’t last long….There are tools that you can grease them with, but usually you do more harm than good, (just replace the bearing)rather than trying to grease it because more than likely if it needs grease it’s too late to save it anyway.
One other reason is if you get too much grease in the cavity where the bearing assembly goes remember you sandwich the bearing in the carrier with the axle and torque it to a certain specifications & there is nowhere for the extra grease to go and you can hydraulically break the housing/ carrier or whatever when you torque it down.
8:07 where did you get the sleeve to protect the axle??? What's the torque spec for the front axle nuts??
Hi there, yeah so the front axle nut torque is 75 foot pounds, and that axle spline and thread protector. Is actually an old Ford seal driver it’s made out of aluminum so really you could go down to your machine shop and you can have one made out of aluminum but that’s actually just an old Ford spindle seal driver
What about that little ring you had to spread? You didn’t put it back or it’s wrapped around before you popped it in? I’m a greenhorn here trying to do my own work
If you are referring to the ring in the cv joint it lives and is retained in the joint and you are just releasing it from the groove in the end of the axle.
@@allwegottadois do you need to open that ring when putting back on.
How much does this cost ? I just picked up a 2005 Polaris sportsman and it has a rip in the rear boot and one in the front boot
Usually, it’s about $50-$60 per boot and usually costs $75-$100 to have a repair shop change it. Depends on how long the boots have been torn whether the axle is worth replacing or not.
@@allwegottadois okay thanks for the reply wish I had someone like you around me who worked on four wheelers all I have are big name shops that want an arm and a leg just to look at it
@@417garage9 I learned my lesson getting ripped off by the Polaris shop where I bought my 850 XP. They charge way too much for repairs as do other shops. I don't know how they can get away with it cause they only pay their mechanics around $30 an hour and the shop gets 5x that. Best to find a cheap under-the-table mechanic or fix it yourself and learn something. Lots of good RUclips videos to help guide you.