Repairing the hull - Wooden boat restoration - Boat refit - Travels With Geordie #56
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- Опубликовано: 28 апр 2018
- This week we continue with the wooden boat restoration of my friends boat. This will be the beginning of a complete boat refit.
Here we start in earnest with hull repairs, fixing rusting nails, leaky seams and other nasty wooden boat grief.
Every week I'll also introduce a beer of the week, sharing some of my favorite, and not so favorite beers.
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Travels With Geordie. A weekly video series about wooden boat restoration and liveaboard life for Peter Knowles and his dog, Geordie.
My day job is design and 3D visualization of custom homes.
If you're interested,...bit.ly/2AGi1wH
Some viewers may be interested in some previous videos about Land Rovers. They're at my previous channel, Riverport Rovers.
bit.ly/2Bm7IOW
Here is the build series about my truck. A rather modified Series II Land Rover.
bit.ly/2ziYQbv
I rather silly build and road trip to the famous Land Rover Winter Romp in Maine.
bit.ly/2zjtPUW
A slightly less silly road trip to Cape Breton that does involve painting flames on a Land Rover.
bit.ly/2KlEKBx
The series that started it all. A crazy plan to build a Land Rover in one day from assorted bits lying around.
bit.ly/2Qa9rPD
There's a few other videos that might be of interest at Riverport Rovers including the beginning of a Boler trailer refit.
Feel free to drop us a line at...
peter@travelswithgeordie.com
geordie@travelswithgeordie.com
Big brother is watching
Hi Peter
Your a lucky man living in BC and messing around with wooden boats.. My own woody took 5 years to refit and still going... Lots of sins committed as well...
Keep up the vids, great stuff
Cheers
Thanks Richard. If I'm a lucky man I'll finish the boat on the day I die...
A TIP! After application of filler to keep it from coming back out of holes and seems lay some good fresh 2” masking tape over the filler before it sets and run the spreader over the tape to fair it. Remove the tape right after filler sets and bam a clean flat fill that needs minimal fairing! Good luck!
Woo Hoo, best tip in a long time. Thanks.
Forgot to mention precut the tape and tap it near the fill areas before mixing the filler makes fast work!
Get em Geordie! You da man!
Wow, how far she has come.
i was looking for a video like this for a long time im also in victoria restoring an old wood boat your knowledge would be extremely useful
Hi Jimmy, got your email, will reply.
Love your videos! We just posted our latest episode on more boat repairs - this time in exotic places!!
Anyone got any tips for the smaller chip repairs in the seams? been using a putty with hardening compound then sand + Primer + Sand+ Primer+ Sand +Paint. I tape the seams super tight but can't seem to get that perfectly smooth finish I'm looking for, ways end top with a minor lip or edge. I'd appreciate any tips !!
On the next Hall out use a product called extend it's the best way to stop iron or steel from rust the nails you have that are bleeding rust can be stopped from bleeding with an application of said product EXTEND. It turns rust back into carbon a building product of steel!!! And other wise use copper screws for back-up fasteners!!!
I'll have to look into that!
It’s called calk used to fill seams
did you replace the worm shoe?
Great information. I am helping out on the restoration of a "1945 80' foot" wood hull with minor leaks. The owner was told to GEL coat after sealing it over sealing and Painting. Would you suggest a different approach? Maybe fiberglass first than Paint or GEL coat. The idea is to not deal with the out of date leaking model
of this type of construction.
Thank you for your insight.
Thanks Clay,
I would stay away from any fiberglass or gel coat on a wooden boat. It will kill the boat in short order.
Wooden boats need periodic maintenance, that's just the cost of their joy. They can't be "updated" successfully, although many try. and largely destroy their boats.
Very interesting, I never really thought about how wooden boats are sealed...cotton wool... who knew...
Simple materials are (almost) always best.
It's mostly the wood swelling even with the calking and the paying when they first go in the water they leak like a sieve for days to a week or more and will if you don't pump them out sink
I am restoring my old 22 foot yacht and have come across a grey sealant that in THIS case I need to use again for sealing fittings that may need to be removed later. I need something that won't bond permanently but will seal to stop crevice corrosion on stainless. The stuff you call "slickstene"? could be the same thing. Can you let me know how it is spelt so I can try & track it down? I have looked locally (NZ) for a while but can't find anything similar so may have to look overseas.
My friends and I have used Davis "Slick Seam" for years on antique wooden boats and it has now been discontinued. Does anyone know of a source for it or can you recommend a suitable replacement for sealing seams on antique wooden boats?
John Hutchinson
You can get a 4"block chisel and try that with a mallet
Ok, I'll look into that.
When you refinish your wood us penetrating epoxy and then you can polish it
Thanks Patrick, I am using it in quite a number of spots.
Hey one more tip mix saw dust with the epoxy filler it makes it go a lot farther economical yeah cheers
Thanks again Patrick, good tip!
Can’t do that with all bad spots. Maybe fix all the bad spots and seal the whole boat
Take a shot or drink every time he says cheers :) cheers!
Heh, Tarman, watch out, I may up the frequency.
nice video hi im a pakistani boat makar and you.
Im gonna use asphalt instead of 291
I live aboard my 1926 wooden boat on the Fraser River in BC. A seam opened up on the south side above the water line. I have cotton, oakum and a caulking hammer. I have watched several videos and was curious what product you applied from the tube. I am a woman doing my own repair as my husband died 2 years ago, it needs to be simple.
Hi Shelly. If it's a seam above the waterline opening up in this hot, dry weather it's perfectly normal. Don't put anything in it, it will swell up again in the damp season and if you put anything in it it will ruin the seam by crushing the fibres of the wood. Be careful of you go cruising though as wake might leak in and you'll take on some water. happily that will close the seam too, but not immediately.
@@TravelsWithGeordie this was wholesome.
Hi
Did you remove all of the concrete in between the frames in the bilge ? Why people have used concrete in wooden boats as counter weight or Ballast is beyond understanding ? This type of product will do nothing but promote rot in the Floor timbers and or frames.
I have owned along with my family a marina / boatyard for almost fifty years. If you need help or advice on the repairs of your vessel please let me know.
I haven't removed it all yet, I'd rather not do it while afloat!
There's some who believe the lime in the concrete actually preserves the wood. Everywhere I've exposed wood it's been in great shape.
@@TravelsWithGeordie hi i have a woodeng boat planing on epoxy and fiber glas all the botom exterior what you recomend ? Thanks.
Why not enclose the boat . Definitely not try to dry it out exposed to the weather
True, but can't be justified for one week haulout.