Really nice build there, Alan, lovely looking guitar. I did a similar build a few years ago with Iron Gear Steel Foundry in the bridge and an Alchemy P90 in the neck, and a 4-way switch. Always a winner.
Great video. Just subbed. I got a tele kit guitar a couple of years ago that ive done a bit of work on. I put a tonerider hot classic in the bridge. and a artist bullbucker in the neck but with standard 250k pots. although a slight upgrade to full size alphas in place of the no name mini pots. can you xplain your 500k pot capacitor or resistor mod to me. or better still do you have a video explaining it. Thanks Jim
Thanks very much James! I don't have a video and I've despatched that guitar now, but it couldn't be easier - you simply solder the wire on one side of the resistor to the same lug on the switch where the bridge pickup attaches (usually the one nearest the volume pot) and ground the other side on the back of the volume pot. There's a better explanation and wiring diagram on the Fralin site here: www.fralinpickups.com/2018/10/17/using-resistors-in-guitars-101/ I'll do a video of he next one! All the best, Alan
Hi Jason. I could do, but i'm in the UK and I think you might pay more in import duty and shipping than the body is worth, so not economically viable for you
@AlansGuitarShack but would I be supporting one of my favorite tele builders on the planet? Also I trust you and might want to work out a custom build over time. Talking with the wife, LoL. Anyway, thanks for the response.
@@JasonViator wow, that’s very kind. Thank you! Always happy to chat, if you’ve got anything specific in mind please do drop me a message via my website alansguitarshack.com
20:00 I’ve only recently built my first partscaster Teles and thought that with the traditional bridge design a ground wire wasn’t needed, as the bridge mounted pickup is the ground. Is that wrong, or is having the ground wire a ‘belt and braces’ approach? 🤔
It’s belts and braces. As long as you have a metal base plate in your bridge pickup, and it is connected the ground wire of the pickup, then yes your mounting screws through the bridge plate should provide a ground. But that’s not a solid connection, and your springs or rubber tubes are what is holding it tight, so I always add a separate ground wire for the five minutes it takes. NB the same is true of the Player series method of adding a lug, but that’s a wider and more positive connection in my view so I go with it if it there in the first place. Key thing is check for continuity with a multimeter - if it is grounded it is grounded!
Really nice build there, Alan, lovely looking guitar. I did a similar build a few years ago with Iron Gear Steel Foundry in the bridge and an Alchemy P90 in the neck, and a 4-way switch. Always a winner.
Cheers Frazer. A winner indeed!
17:25 Regarding the “What makes it a Fender?” question and the ‘Trgger’s Broom’ principle - fwiw, I’d come to the same conclusion, Alan. 👍
Great video. Just subbed.
I got a tele kit guitar a couple of years ago that ive done a bit of work on.
I put a tonerider hot classic in the bridge. and a artist bullbucker in the neck but with standard 250k pots. although a slight upgrade to full size alphas in place of the no name mini pots. can you xplain your 500k pot capacitor or resistor mod to me. or better still do you have a video explaining it.
Thanks Jim
Thanks very much James! I don't have a video and I've despatched that guitar now, but it couldn't be easier - you simply solder the wire on one side of the resistor to the same lug on the switch where the bridge pickup attaches (usually the one nearest the volume pot) and ground the other side on the back of the volume pot. There's a better explanation and wiring diagram on the Fralin site here: www.fralinpickups.com/2018/10/17/using-resistors-in-guitars-101/ I'll do a video of he next one! All the best, Alan
Do you ship to Mobile, Alabama USA?
I like that Jag body....
Hi Jason. I could do, but i'm in the UK and I think you might pay more in import duty and shipping than the body is worth, so not economically viable for you
@AlansGuitarShack but would I be supporting one of my favorite tele builders on the planet? Also I trust you and might want to work out a custom build over time. Talking with the wife, LoL. Anyway, thanks for the response.
@@JasonViator wow, that’s very kind. Thank you! Always happy to chat, if you’ve got anything specific in mind please do drop me a message via my website alansguitarshack.com
20:00 I’ve only recently built my first partscaster Teles and thought that with the traditional bridge design a ground wire wasn’t needed, as the bridge mounted pickup is the ground. Is that wrong, or is having the ground wire a ‘belt and braces’ approach? 🤔
It’s belts and braces. As long as you have a metal base plate in your bridge pickup, and it is connected the ground wire of the pickup, then yes your mounting screws through the bridge plate should provide a ground. But that’s not a solid connection, and your springs or rubber tubes are what is holding it tight, so I always add a separate ground wire for the five minutes it takes. NB the same is true of the Player series method of adding a lug, but that’s a wider and more positive connection in my view so I go with it if it there in the first place. Key thing is check for continuity with a multimeter - if it is grounded it is grounded!
@@AlansGuitarShack Thanks for that, Alan! 🙏👍🙂