for adding clearance to the models where we used a surface cut, couldn't we do a symmetric two-sided extrusion on our cutting surface and then do a surface cut with either side of that newly created body? If that works, then we can adjust the clearance just by editing the extrusion length of that 'thick surface'.
I did my first Fusion 360 project last Saturday, by following a step-by-step tutorial video by Kevin of Product Design Online (PDO) to make a customizable stamp designed to be 3D printed. Gave the result to my sister last Sunday as part of her birthday present. The most important thing about that video, for me, was getting a feel for the Fusion 360 workflow, particularly how to make use good of the timeline, which may be The Beginner's Favorite First Fusion Feature to understand. This video was my second Fusion 360 tutorial ever. I didn't even know this was something you did! It just showed up in my queue. I can't say I caught all that you shared, but I do know I'll be able to "git'er done" when trying it on my own. Kevin's video gave me a basic workflow "tree trunk", and your video added vital "limbs" to that tree. Next, I'll go through the rest of your Fusion 360 videos. Why yours, instead of continuing with the rest of Kevin's excellent series? I simply like how you avoid jargon, using precise language when needed, but otherwise staying informally conversational: You move your hands around as if "shaping" your explanation. Both you and Kevin get the job done, and done very well,, but your approach provides a more pleasant and enjoyable experience. Thanks! BTW: I've been an engineer for over 30 years, focused primarily on embedded real-time systems such as sensors, instrumentation, vision systems, control systems and robotics. I can write software, design circuits, layout PCBs, program FPGAs, and use every machine in the workshop like a boss. But 3D CAD has always kicked my ass. I've tried all the popular programs, having limited success with SketchUp, Tinkercad, 3D Builder, OpenSCAD and more. I kept finding that some operations were intuitive and easy in one tool while being almost impossible in another, leading me to move a model back and forth between tools over and over again so I could do things in ways that I could actually accomplish. Ugh. Turns out I needed the right tool with the right teachers!
Thanks for the kind words! I am largely self taught beyond solidworks at uni years ago, so not a big fan of jargon either. I learn through examples so that's the approach I prefer to use.
@@MakersMuse Learn something every time you do videos like this, Thank You! I particularly like these more advanced ones, and while I know they are not as accessible for everyone, thank you for diversity to include more advanced concepts! Exposure to these for those purposes I don't see typically, and they absolutely open new approaches and concepts how to use the avalible tools.
Title is misleading as Fusion now has CAM for 3d printing. 'Slicing' in this context means using that CAM package, whereas in the context of the video it means to 'chop' a model.
Great vid :) I often use press/pull for my clearances too, but doesn't always work, ddpending on the geometry. In those cases, (and more often than not even if I use a single command these days) I setup a single parameter to hold my clearance value, that way people can adjust any and all of them at the same time, simply by changing a single value no matter which command I hapeen to use :)
I use 3 main parameters for clearance: 0.1mm press-fit, 0.2mm tight-fit, 0.3mm clear fit. those 3 are easy to remember, and come very close to the ISO standards for fits and tolerances used in machining.
A bit of a constructive criticism at the 13:25 mark... Fusion 360 DOES allow you to EASILY align two halves PERFECTLY - when using threads to attach two halves. There are two simple tricks that you can use - I will use your, @Maker's Muse, two football halves, as an example: "the hardest of the two"... >skip the 'extrusion' of the upper half till later - upper half must "bottom-out" at the lower half, at least for now >create matching threads on both halves >make each half a 'component' - basically create two "components" >select the bottom & top halves/components - right click - select 'rigid group' - so the upper & lower halves/components will never go through each other >select, and right click on the bottom half/component, select 'ground' - so the bottom half will never move >select the upper half/component - go to 'assemble' subtab, and select 'joint' - 'snap' points, on both halves/components, should be at the lowest points where the two halves touch - HENCE, why I earlier mentioned to leave the extrusion, of the upper part, to the very end - make sure, while creating the joint, you select for the upper half/component to 'revolve' >go to the 'assemble' subtab again - select 'drive joints' - click on the joint you just created - and in the options, make sure that the joint is at the zero position/rotation >if the upper part is not snuggly fits inside the lower part, and keeps on popping out, then you can try another 'joint' for the upper part, but this time, specify for the 'snap' point to be a 'slider' - the lowest point, where the two parts/components touch, should be the start point of the 'slider' - the end point of the slider, can be anywhere above the starting point - just make sure that your path is centered, and is going straight up, from the bottom half/component >again, "zero-out" the joint in the 'drive joints' option >NOW, Fusion 360 will "automatically" snap the two halves/components together, and will align the threads perfectly >do your 'extrusion', if need to >continue creating your designs, on both halves - 3D print - and you will see your designs match up at the final "screw-in"... "the easiest of the two"... >keep your 'extrusion' on the upper part >create desired thread ONLY on the BOTTOM part >create a 'copy' of the BOTTOM part - in same exact position - and 'hide' the original "copy" of the bottom part >having your upper part in its final, "inserted"(like in 13:25 of the video) position - inside the lower part (copied lower part) - go to 'create' subtab, select 'boundary fill' - for 'select tools' select the "copied lower part" - for 'select cells', select all the cells of the "copied lower part" - for 'operation', choose an option to 'CUT' - click 'OK' >NOW, the thread from the "copied lower part"(an invisible part now) is "cut" into the upper part >"UNHIDE" the original lower part, and you will see how threads, on both parts, are aligned perfectly to each other >proceed with your designs, and 3D print without worrying about misalignment!!!;) @Maker's Muse, if you, or anyone else watching your video, were not aware about these techniques/applications, then I hope I helped. In the end, I'm just trying to return a favor for all the help/education you have provided me - with all your awesome, and very informative videos. Great video - keep it up mate. Cheers!
Hi Angus, thanks for your tutorial series - its really helped. can you tell me what the clearance is that F360 uses when you create a male and female thread and is this something that can be adjusted ???
With the newest Fusion 360 update this was a little misleading to me - I thought it was going to be a demo of the new FFF slicing and gcode generation features :) still a very good watch though!
Often, you can even save the 'combine' step and just use the 'cut' option of the 'thicken' function. (I love your name, Dibbs. You could give Benedict Cumberbatch a run for his money.)
Very useful type of video! As someone who's just figuring stuff out over time by using the program, I've come across most of the ideas, but on some things I realize "oh sure, this is much better/easier than what I was doing!" :D
Thank you so much. I love this content. I especially like the part on clearances. First, thanks for using the word "clearance" instead of calling it "tolerance" which happens in so many Fusion tutorials. More importantly, the push-pull technique is brilliant. I've been creating a "clearance" parameter and then adding it to my sketch dimensions. It does work, but it's so much more effort. I can't wait to try it your way.
Man, these tutorials are so well-made. You’re a phenomenal teacher, and you always come across as honest and genuine. This is definitely somewhat advanced for me, but I’m hoping after absorbing a few more of your videos I’ll feel confident enough to dive into Fusion. Until then, Microsoft 3D Builder is my tool of choice. It’s not a very good tool (perhaps it’s even the worst?), and the models always come out ridiculously rough. But I’m learning how to avoid these weird artifacting issues and the software is extremely intuitive, though it is a bit sluggish even on a high-end PC.
Thanks Angus! This was awesome! I've never used surfaces for cutting, but that made that dovetail look so easy! And thanks for the tip on clearances too. They're so many good ideas here. I often have prints that are to large for my prusa i3 mk3s print bed, so this will be very very handy.
Oh I know about Fusion 360...through your videos. I use Sketchup and get decent results but can't do the cool things like patterning or threads. I probably can add an extension but I'm good so far. I've just been doing pegs with friction fit. But I've wanted to try more complicated stuff like you did in the video. :{
Love this stuff. I need to play more in the surface section, didn't realize how useful it is. That's funny, the rotating nub is something I did a decade ago with a dremel and a steel bearing.
ANGUS!! You are needed more than ever now! Watch NY TIMES video about 3D printing PPE SUPPLIES for hospitals etc IN DESPERATE NEED. You have one of the largest 3D printing communities. You can show them how to help their nearby hospitals with dwindling supplies.
Thanks for your videos. I'm just getting started with Fusion 360 for 3D printing. I'm an older EE and have quite abit of technical know-how. I've worked through several different RUclips videos and a few Udemy classes related to Fusion 360. But I feel I need more. Can you recommend any more detailed and complete training classes related to Fusion 360 and designing for 3D printable objects? Appreciate any guidance you can offer. Thanks.
I don't understand how slicing in Fusion has ANYTHING to with my print volume over slicing in Cura, Simplify 3d, or any other slicer. You tell the slicer what machine you have, what the build plate volume is...and Fusion's new slicer can't do that any better or any worse. Also I don't see how the Fusion360 slicer is any better than Simplifyi3d....for overhangs.
Please do more F360 advance videos. Your presentation and teaching methods are the best. The problem with other RUclipsrs, is they have no teaching ability and/or don't know anything about making videos. Not to mention loud shitty "music", or talking with such thick accents that I can't understand. I'm designing 3D printable planes (like eclipson does) and struggling with making inner ribs with lightening holes, as a part of the shell body, so as to print with 0% fill. The free downloadable files "Eclipson Model A" from their site, shows the end result. They print in continuous vase mode with no retracts, which is nice.
I often just join flat surfaces, maybe with a little "registration", but it's basically very easy to weld the pieces with a soldering iron controlled to around 200°C
Thank you Angus! Since I am a complete layman when it comes to CAD modelling, I was struggling a little bit to wrap my mind around some of the problems that a design project presented to me. I kind of arrived at the concepts you described here, but the tools and methods how to implement them were not yet known to me. I learned something today.
This is really good Angus. I first learned Fusion using your videos a couple years ago now and I learned something new yet today. I've been sketching my clearances since the beginning but I can see huge value in the press/pull on these complex shapes. This is going to save me a pile of time. Thanks for sharing!
Another technique to be aware of is cutting other models to use previously modelled features that you might otherwise have trouble making from scratch. For example, I wanted to model an internal tapered pipe thread. So I looked around on thingiverse and found a simple flange with the correct thread. Then imported it into Windows Builder because my real CAD software cannot do any Boolean operations on STL models. So I created some simple hollow cylinder in Builder and 'cut away' the part of the flange that I didn't need. Saved that as a new solid and imported it into Cura and placed it in a cavity hole in my real model. I had to make sure there was some overlap between the two models so that Cura would print it as one model. This means oversizing the cutout model because precision placement is/was impossible to do in Cura.
I love your videos and try to keep all this stuff into my brain. Sometimes it seems to get an implosion when I wake up in the morning after having a full night youtube video watching session and I sit in front of my computer and all the seen stuff is gone. Learning by doing is the best way to get things learned for me, but with an Ipad in my left hand, the computer mouse in the right, and switching eyes between the iPads surface and my monitor makes my head imploding twice. 🤯🤯🤯 The only thing I‘m really sad of is that you are in Australia and I sit in Germany. Too far away to come for a coffee and have a talk. RUclips must be enough. Especially when I have special questions to the seen stuff.
Not complaining, just whining, but I thought this was going to be about designing for creating fusion 360 assemblies. As in I know how to do many things with fusion 360 but often times after doing something I realize there was a far easier/more efficient/more versatile method of doing something. I wish there was a video that told me when I needed to use 2 sketches instead of 1 or 2 parts could actually be 1 before I waste hours of time. I always figure it out and I always get smarter but sometimes it just takes too long.
for assemblies with more than a handful of joined parts, the press-pull method might be cumbersome. I generally model clearances into my sketches using a couple of clearance parameters (clearance_fit, clearance_motion). The one downside to this is extruding to another surface minus the clearance distance. I have to create an offset plane of clearance distance from the surface I want to extrude to and then use that plane as the extrusion endpoint. What do you think? Is there a better way? Do people prefer to press-pull clearances at the end of design even with multipart assemblies?
4:20 I have done this kind of joint before... and turns out the size of 3D printed models are a bit off from than design, and therefore it does not fit in... and I have to sand it for a while... and your sliced objects seems to have structural overhangs when printing, which cause quiet some trouble for me.
I always enjoy vids like these cos it helps enlighten me on what's possible with 3D printers and how to design for them, thanks a lot Angus! say hi to your bird lol
I saw all these reports of people 3D printing medical ventilators, which reminded me of you, which reminded me that I haven't seen your videos in a while... Then you posted!
Just thinking... for the nubs part, could you not instead make a springy "trampoline" that the nub slides over, that lets the nub pass in one direction, but not in th other?
I’ve been struggling to get the tolerances right on a dovetail from someone else’s box/drawer model that needs to have enough friction to not slide around when opening the drawer, but easy enough to slide together both to 1 box or 4 boxes (one on each side) without a hammer.
Nice pointers for the design features but the clearance thing is still very messy. For accurate models I need to try multiple times before it actually fits and I really just add the clearance from the sketch other than those for the screws
As always, very informative and interesting! Keep up the good work! Just a quick tip - the model with the thread could be easily modelled by making a thread on one of the parts and then just use the same part as the tool body do cut the needed clearance in the second part using the combine function.
Just wondering, I use onshape for school, but eventually I’m going to stop being able to use it for free. Will I be able to fairly easily switch to something like fusion 360 in the future?
Amazing video - I thought from the presentation that you were going to show the Fusion 360 Additive manufacturing as well. I think it would be very interesting to play with multi method manufacturing in Fusion 360. We have machine components produced on an Anycubic Photon Mono X that needs to be CNC finished on one or two surfaces afterwards. Fusion should be the perfect system for such hybrid manufacturing,
Thanks another great tutorial Angus. Although I use Solidworks and FeatureCam at work I have Fusion360 at home for all my 3D printing needs. Always good to learn a new software. Keep up the vidoes.
Thanks, this is super useful! I’m hoping to start creating figurines soon in Fusion 360 with inner working parts(like LEDS and speakers), so a video like this is exactly what I needed in my subscription box lol
As always, yet something more to learn! Double thanks, Angus - first for expanding our knowledge, and second for providing such a worthwhile distraction from sitting (working??) from home for the next "X" weeks....... Keep it Up, Young fella!
Great summary Angus, thank you! I suggest you a thing 'cause I don't see it in your contruction histories. After you use surfaces (or bodies) as cutting tools you can remove them from the Bodies tree by right-clicking on them and select "Remove". Of course if you're sure you don't need them later in the modeling process. By doing so you can keep your Bodies tree clean and have your main bodies displayed without any auxiliary geometry. It's expecially handy also when you split a body and you don't need to keep all the resulting splitted parts. Keep up the great work!
Great video as always, though since Fusion360 has a slicer function now, i thought for the first few moments you are talking about slicing in fusion360, not splitting the body ;)
Why are you worried about the shelf on the top of the "threaded football", but not the entire bottom floor underneath that 5mm Pull that is going to a HUGE overhang?
I think that's because the big overhang is an uninterrupted bridge with solid structure on all sides so it could be printed with no support, but the thin overhang would have no structure to bridge across.
Thank you Angus. I’ve always struggled to put pieces together and make them fit. Typically used a screw connection, but as you mentioned, they do not perfectly align. I was blown away by the other various ways parts can be connected. Thanks for the video, very helpful and informative indeed. Btw, do you do clearances when in sketch mode?
I made a snapping ring following your tips from the "Designing Buckles, Clips, and Snaps" video =D It was kinda interesting trying to make a snapping function for something that is essentially a pipe with a 4 mm shell. It took a couple of tries but I finally got it working on the 3rd version.
This is great content. The spirit of why 3D printing can serve any useful purpose. I am sick of videos where people print cat and dog figurines on 3D printers. Thanks very much and keep going.
Personally this is the type of content I like most from you. Keep it up, Angus! :)
Agree 100%. This is one of your best videos. Thanks for sharing.
for adding clearance to the models where we used a surface cut, couldn't we do a symmetric two-sided extrusion on our cutting surface and then do a surface cut with either side of that newly created body? If that works, then we can adjust the clearance just by editing the extrusion length of that 'thick surface'.
I've done it that way before. In the surface menu, click "thicken" just make sure to do it symmetrically!
I did my first Fusion 360 project last Saturday, by following a step-by-step tutorial video by Kevin of Product Design Online (PDO) to make a customizable stamp designed to be 3D printed. Gave the result to my sister last Sunday as part of her birthday present. The most important thing about that video, for me, was getting a feel for the Fusion 360 workflow, particularly how to make use good of the timeline, which may be The Beginner's Favorite First Fusion Feature to understand.
This video was my second Fusion 360 tutorial ever. I didn't even know this was something you did! It just showed up in my queue. I can't say I caught all that you shared, but I do know I'll be able to "git'er done" when trying it on my own. Kevin's video gave me a basic workflow "tree trunk", and your video added vital "limbs" to that tree.
Next, I'll go through the rest of your Fusion 360 videos. Why yours, instead of continuing with the rest of Kevin's excellent series? I simply like how you avoid jargon, using precise language when needed, but otherwise staying informally conversational: You move your hands around as if "shaping" your explanation. Both you and Kevin get the job done, and done very well,, but your approach provides a more pleasant and enjoyable experience.
Thanks!
BTW: I've been an engineer for over 30 years, focused primarily on embedded real-time systems such as sensors, instrumentation, vision systems, control systems and robotics. I can write software, design circuits, layout PCBs, program FPGAs, and use every machine in the workshop like a boss. But 3D CAD has always kicked my ass. I've tried all the popular programs, having limited success with SketchUp, Tinkercad, 3D Builder, OpenSCAD and more. I kept finding that some operations were intuitive and easy in one tool while being almost impossible in another, leading me to move a model back and forth between tools over and over again so I could do things in ways that I could actually accomplish. Ugh. Turns out I needed the right tool with the right teachers!
Thanks for the kind words! I am largely self taught beyond solidworks at uni years ago, so not a big fan of jargon either. I learn through examples so that's the approach I prefer to use.
@@MakersMuse Learn something every time you do videos like this, Thank You! I particularly like these more advanced ones, and while I know they are not as accessible for everyone, thank you for diversity to include more advanced concepts! Exposure to these for those purposes I don't see typically, and they absolutely open new approaches and concepts how to use the avalible tools.
Title is misleading as Fusion now has CAM for 3d printing. 'Slicing' in this context means using that CAM package, whereas in the context of the video it means to 'chop' a model.
Ah... good point. I have a video planned for that, but this was a requested video. I'll change the terminology.
Great vid :) I often use press/pull for my clearances too, but doesn't always work, ddpending on the geometry. In those cases, (and more often than not even if I use a single command these days) I setup a single parameter to hold my clearance value, that way people can adjust any and all of them at the same time, simply by changing a single value no matter which command I hapeen to use :)
I use 3 main parameters for clearance: 0.1mm press-fit, 0.2mm tight-fit, 0.3mm clear fit. those 3 are easy to remember, and come very close to the ISO standards for fits and tolerances used in machining.
A bit of a constructive criticism at the 13:25 mark... Fusion 360 DOES allow you to EASILY align two halves PERFECTLY - when using threads to attach two halves. There are two simple tricks that you can use - I will use your, @Maker's Muse, two football halves, as an example: "the hardest of the two"... >skip the 'extrusion' of the upper half till later - upper half must "bottom-out" at the lower half, at least for now >create matching threads on both halves >make each half a 'component' - basically create two "components" >select the bottom & top halves/components - right click - select 'rigid group' - so the upper & lower halves/components will never go through each other >select, and right click on the bottom half/component, select 'ground' - so the bottom half will never move >select the upper half/component - go to 'assemble' subtab, and select 'joint' - 'snap' points, on both halves/components, should be at the lowest points where the two halves touch - HENCE, why I earlier mentioned to leave the extrusion, of the upper part, to the very end - make sure, while creating the joint, you select for the upper half/component to 'revolve' >go to the 'assemble' subtab again - select 'drive joints' - click on the joint you just created - and in the options, make sure that the joint is at the zero position/rotation >if the upper part is not snuggly fits inside the lower part, and keeps on popping out, then you can try another 'joint' for the upper part, but this time, specify for the 'snap' point to be a 'slider' - the lowest point, where the two parts/components touch, should be the start point of the 'slider' - the end point of the slider, can be anywhere above the starting point - just make sure that your path is centered, and is going straight up, from the bottom half/component >again, "zero-out" the joint in the 'drive joints' option >NOW, Fusion 360 will "automatically" snap the two halves/components together, and will align the threads perfectly >do your 'extrusion', if need to >continue creating your designs, on both halves - 3D print - and you will see your designs match up at the final "screw-in"... "the easiest of the two"... >keep your 'extrusion' on the upper part >create desired thread ONLY on the BOTTOM part >create a 'copy' of the BOTTOM part - in same exact position - and 'hide' the original "copy" of the bottom part >having your upper part in its final, "inserted"(like in 13:25 of the video) position - inside the lower part (copied lower part) - go to 'create' subtab, select 'boundary fill' - for 'select tools' select the "copied lower part" - for 'select cells', select all the cells of the "copied lower part" - for 'operation', choose an option to 'CUT' - click 'OK' >NOW, the thread from the "copied lower part"(an invisible part now) is "cut" into the upper part >"UNHIDE" the original lower part, and you will see how threads, on both parts, are aligned perfectly to each other >proceed with your designs, and 3D print without worrying about misalignment!!!;) @Maker's Muse, if you, or anyone else watching your video, were not aware about these techniques/applications, then I hope I helped. In the end, I'm just trying to return a favor for all the help/education you have provided me - with all your awesome, and very informative videos. Great video - keep it up mate. Cheers!
Hi Angus, thanks for your tutorial series - its really helped. can you tell me what the clearance is that F360 uses when you create a male and female thread and is this something that can be adjusted ???
With the newest Fusion 360 update this was a little misleading to me - I thought it was going to be a demo of the new FFF slicing and gcode generation features :) still a very good watch though!
If you are using surface geometry to split then you can use "thicken" to add clearance and then split using "combine".
Yep that's another approach! I do that sometimes if it's a simple part and I don't need to add offsets to multiple faces at once.
Often, you can even save the 'combine' step and just use the 'cut' option of the 'thicken' function. (I love your name, Dibbs. You could give Benedict Cumberbatch a run for his money.)
The day Angus has become a maestro of 3D design. Wholesome ❤❤❤
If this is 'advanced', please continue to provide this level of content; I found it to be a nice refresher.
Very useful type of video! As someone who's just figuring stuff out over time by using the program, I've come across most of the ideas, but on some things I realize "oh sure, this is much better/easier than what I was doing!" :D
Thank you so much. I love this content. I especially like the part on clearances. First, thanks for using the word "clearance" instead of calling it "tolerance" which happens in so many Fusion tutorials. More importantly, the push-pull technique is brilliant. I've been creating a "clearance" parameter and then adding it to my sketch dimensions. It does work, but it's so much more effort. I can't wait to try it your way.
I love the Fusion 360 advanced videos! More of this please :)
Man, these tutorials are so well-made. You’re a phenomenal teacher, and you always come across as honest and genuine. This is definitely somewhat advanced for me, but I’m hoping after absorbing a few more of your videos I’ll feel confident enough to dive into Fusion.
Until then, Microsoft 3D Builder is my tool of choice. It’s not a very good tool (perhaps it’s even the worst?), and the models always come out ridiculously rough. But I’m learning how to avoid these weird artifacting issues and the software is extremely intuitive, though it is a bit sluggish even on a high-end PC.
Thanks Angus! This was awesome! I've never used surfaces for cutting, but that made that dovetail look so easy! And thanks for the tip on clearances too.
They're so many good ideas here. I often have prints that are to large for my prusa i3 mk3s print bed, so this will be very very handy.
Oh I know about Fusion 360...through your videos.
I use Sketchup and get decent results but can't do the cool things like patterning or threads. I probably can add an extension but I'm good so far.
I've just been doing pegs with friction fit. But I've wanted to try more complicated stuff like you did in the video. :{
7:52 is a really "gooder" way of doing it lol
Love this stuff. I need to play more in the surface section, didn't realize how useful it is.
That's funny, the rotating nub is something I did a decade ago with a dremel and a steel bearing.
Portal FPV
: The man who invented the bayonet-fitting light bulb must have known a thing or two! :o)
Hi Angus you probably know this but if you need to you can also make another body and combine it but with cut selected
Yep! I use that approach often too.
Thanks Angus... Needed a bit of inspiration to do some drawing.
At 16:41 the king of r...andom
Great tips and instructions! Mahalo for sharing! : )
Perfect timing! I just pm'ed my printers and have been refreshing my F360 skills. You just made my week so much more interesting... Thanks Angus!
The one thing that this community has that nobody else has: OUR 3D PRINTERS! Great video Angus! Stay strong!
You mean the 3D printer community? No duh =P
Great tips, loved the video, it's always fun to dive into your channel
Loved this!
There are always different ways to achieve things in fusion and there were some new ones in this for me
Instead of clearance I just heat one of the components slightly before the very first time I attach the parts.
ANGUS!! You are needed more than ever now! Watch NY TIMES video about 3D printing PPE SUPPLIES for hospitals etc IN DESPERATE NEED. You have one of the largest 3D printing communities. You can show them how to help their nearby hospitals with dwindling supplies.
Thanks for your videos. I'm just getting started with Fusion 360 for 3D printing. I'm an older EE and have quite abit of technical know-how. I've worked through several different RUclips videos and a few Udemy classes related to Fusion 360. But I feel I need more. Can you recommend any more detailed and complete training classes related to Fusion 360 and designing for 3D printable objects? Appreciate any guidance you can offer. Thanks.
I don't understand how slicing in Fusion has ANYTHING to with my print volume over slicing in Cura, Simplify 3d, or any other slicer.
You tell the slicer what machine you have, what the build plate volume is...and Fusion's new slicer can't do that any better or any worse.
Also I don't see how the Fusion360 slicer is any better than Simplifyi3d....for overhangs.
Clearences are to be handled by the slicing software, so they're not dependant on the machine of the end-user
I feel that the hexagon index is overkill for a part that has no need for structural integrity
Hah, very much so... But the extra geometry is free so I guess why not!
Please do more F360 advance videos.
Your presentation and teaching methods are the best.
The problem with other RUclipsrs, is they have no teaching ability and/or don't know anything about making videos.
Not to mention loud shitty "music", or talking with such thick accents that I can't understand.
I'm designing 3D printable planes (like eclipson does) and struggling with making inner ribs with lightening holes, as a part of the shell body, so as to print with 0% fill.
The free downloadable files "Eclipson Model A" from their site, shows the end result. They print in continuous vase mode with no retracts, which is nice.
I often just join flat surfaces, maybe with a little "registration", but it's basically very easy to weld the pieces with a soldering iron controlled to around 200°C
Thank you Angus! Since I am a complete layman when it comes to CAD modelling, I was struggling a little bit to wrap my mind around some of the problems that a design project presented to me. I kind of arrived at the concepts you described here, but the tools and methods how to implement them were not yet known to me.
I learned something today.
This is really good Angus. I first learned Fusion using your videos a couple years ago now and I learned something new yet today. I've been sketching my clearances since the beginning but I can see huge value in the press/pull on these complex shapes. This is going to save me a pile of time. Thanks for sharing!
Wait, how was I not already subscribed? Oh well, I am now. Thanks for a great tutorial. I learned more than I thought I would!
Another technique to be aware of is cutting other models to use previously modelled features that you might otherwise have trouble making from scratch.
For example, I wanted to model an internal tapered pipe thread. So I looked around on thingiverse and found a simple flange with the correct thread. Then imported it into Windows Builder because my real CAD software cannot do any Boolean operations on STL models. So I created some simple hollow cylinder in Builder and 'cut away' the part of the flange that I didn't need. Saved that as a new solid and imported it into Cura and placed it in a cavity hole in my real model. I had to make sure there was some overlap between the two models so that Cura would print it as one model. This means oversizing the cutout model because precision placement is/was impossible to do in Cura.
I love your videos and try to keep all this stuff into my brain. Sometimes it seems to get an implosion when I wake up in the morning after having a full night youtube video watching session and I sit in front of my computer and all the seen stuff is gone. Learning by doing is the best way to get things learned for me, but with an Ipad in my left hand, the computer mouse in the right, and switching eyes between the iPads surface and my monitor makes my head imploding twice. 🤯🤯🤯
The only thing I‘m really sad of is that you are in Australia and I sit in Germany. Too far away to come for a coffee and have a talk. RUclips must be enough. Especially when I have special questions to the seen stuff.
Not complaining, just whining, but I thought this was going to be about designing for creating fusion 360 assemblies. As in I know how to do many things with fusion 360 but often times after doing something I realize there was a far easier/more efficient/more versatile method of doing something. I wish there was a video that told me when I needed to use 2 sketches instead of 1 or 2 parts could actually be 1 before I waste hours of time. I always figure it out and I always get smarter but sometimes it just takes too long.
This was super, thanks. Some of those I'd discovered on my own but some was new and to see it all together in one place is fantastic.
When you added that 5mm pocket to make sure it screws all the way in, all I could think of was the SNL skit, "You put your weed in there!"
for assemblies with more than a handful of joined parts, the press-pull method might be cumbersome. I generally model clearances into my sketches using a couple of clearance parameters (clearance_fit, clearance_motion). The one downside to this is extruding to another surface minus the clearance distance. I have to create an offset plane of clearance distance from the surface I want to extrude to and then use that plane as the extrusion endpoint.
What do you think? Is there a better way? Do people prefer to press-pull clearances at the end of design even with multipart assemblies?
What fdm printer do you use that can print with a .4mm nozzle and get a .1mm clearence?
it's too bad threads don't have option for 3d printing, autodesk please !
This is a quality content. Thanks dude for this huge sharing! I appreciate your design guides und tips.
4:20 I have done this kind of joint before... and turns out the size of 3D printed models are a bit off from than design, and therefore it does not fit in... and I have to sand it for a while... and your sliced objects seems to have structural overhangs when printing, which cause quiet some trouble for me.
Splitting a body from a sketch line like at 5:00 can be done without extruding a surface- just select the line itself from the split body tool!
Guys can someone help me: I can't do sweep from the curve live, had do create a little offset, perform a tiny profile and then Sweep. Is that right?
I always enjoy vids like these cos it helps enlighten me on what's possible with 3D printers and how to design for them, thanks a lot Angus! say hi to your bird lol
Thank you. This was a nice, concise, simple, and helpful video.Thanks
That’s a real shame that you don,t work with DesignSpark, but thank you very much you are an ace anyway .
your accent is getting more and more american
We need more Aussie youtubers, it's all I've been exposed to for the past 2 weeks!
As someone who has to change models to print on my prusa mini, this is incredibly valuable. The only one like it I could find in fact.
I saw all these reports of people 3D printing medical ventilators, which reminded me of you, which reminded me that I haven't seen your videos in a while... Then you posted!
Great video. Banging my head on the wall with a simple design and this has me rethinking my part a bit. There maybe a better way.
Just thinking... for the nubs part, could you not instead make a springy "trampoline" that the nub slides over, that lets the nub pass in one direction, but not in th other?
Is there a particular thread style we can use that prints better? Standard threads have pretty extreme angles, over 45 degrees.
Gracias! muy bueno! saludos desde Argentina!
I’ve been struggling to get the tolerances right on a dovetail from someone else’s box/drawer model that needs to have enough friction to not slide around when opening the drawer, but easy enough to slide together both to 1 box or 4 boxes (one on each side) without a hammer.
Try to angel those grooves and in the end have bigger cutout what is stopping it moving back. Like thread has pitch.
pull for cleareance will deform object, isnt better design with cleareance in mind?
I think you can cut the model with sketch, don't have to extrude sketch to make it surface.
am I right?
Nice pointers for the design features but the clearance thing is still very messy. For accurate models I need to try multiple times before it actually fits and I really just add the clearance from the sketch other than those for the screws
Can anyone point me to some tutorials for 3d sketches in fusion? I know how to do it in solidworks, but I don't quite get how it works in fusion.
can't you use a metal ball with spring to apply pressure to the rotary snap like on walking sticks or umbrellas in place of the sacrificial catch?
All those solutions still have those damn overhangs, just saying :(
Awesome video! So much good stuff in this one video. Can't wait for your Easter project it looks very cool.
13:43 You can just use Boolean operations using existing thread to create a new thread. In this case you can exactly predict the ending point.
Great video and demonstration. It would have been great to see printed examples of those parts.
Why multi body parts instead of actual assemblies?
17:09 Is this appropriate for RUclips? 🤣
It would have been hilarious if he had blurred that geometry.
19:15 too
Very informative. Thank you very much!
As always, very informative and interesting! Keep up the good work!
Just a quick tip - the model with the thread could be easily modelled by making a thread on one of the parts and then just use the same part as the tool body do cut the needed clearance in the second part using the combine function.
Huh, good point! A boolean difference would definitely work.
That adding clearances trick is just what I need! Thanks, Angus!
At 22:50, that cross section's a bunny mixed with an egg, isn't it?
Awesome video Angus, Very interesting methods.
@ 3:12, did you know that you can also split body’s with sketch curves? The cut will append perpendicular to the sketch plane.
Need to pixelate the cut @ 19:30, Angus! Rude! :D
Love these advanced tutorials. Can we get some more?
please make more joint videos. not as easy to make both bodies. Still a noob
Thanks so much dude. Super helpful.
Just wondering, I use onshape for school, but eventually I’m going to stop being able to use it for free. Will I be able to fairly easily switch to something like fusion 360 in the future?
You're a talented industrial designer. Do MORE like this. Fewer mylar wallets--seriously. Pulling that out would scream, "Dork!"
But... I am a dork? 😬
@@MakersMuse It was a compliment, Angus. Yea, that's it. A compliment.
Amazing video - I thought from the presentation that you were going to show the Fusion 360 Additive manufacturing as well. I think it would be very interesting to play with multi method manufacturing in Fusion 360. We have machine components produced on an Anycubic Photon Mono X that needs to be CNC finished on one or two surfaces afterwards. Fusion should be the perfect system for such hybrid manufacturing,
It's awesome seeing real life project with explain all its complexity.
Man this was brilliant! Thank you!!!
this was great mate thanks heaps
Thanks another great tutorial Angus. Although I use Solidworks and FeatureCam at work I have Fusion360 at home for all my 3D printing needs. Always good to learn a new software. Keep up the vidoes.
Thanks, this is super useful! I’m hoping to start creating figurines soon in Fusion 360 with inner working parts(like LEDS and speakers), so a video like this is exactly what I needed in my subscription box lol
thanks! i really good tips :)
As always, yet something more to learn!
Double thanks, Angus - first for expanding our knowledge, and second for providing such a worthwhile distraction from sitting (working??) from home for the next "X" weeks.......
Keep it Up, Young fella!
Great summary Angus, thank you! I suggest you a thing 'cause I don't see it in your contruction histories. After you use surfaces (or bodies) as cutting tools you can remove them from the Bodies tree by right-clicking on them and select "Remove". Of course if you're sure you don't need them later in the modeling process. By doing so you can keep your Bodies tree clean and have your main bodies displayed without any auxiliary geometry. It's expecially handy also when you split a body and you don't need to keep all the resulting splitted parts. Keep up the great work!
Great video as always, though since Fusion360 has a slicer function now, i thought for the first few moments you are talking about slicing in fusion360, not splitting the body ;)
Why are you worried about the shelf on the top of the "threaded football", but not the entire bottom floor underneath that 5mm Pull that is going to a HUGE overhang?
I think that's because the big overhang is an uninterrupted bridge with solid structure on all sides so it could be printed with no support, but the thin overhang would have no structure to bridge across.
Thank you Angus. I’ve always struggled to put pieces together and make them fit. Typically used a screw connection, but as you mentioned, they do not perfectly align. I was blown away by the other various ways parts can be connected. Thanks for the video, very helpful and informative indeed. Btw, do you do clearances when in sketch mode?
I made a snapping ring following your tips from the "Designing Buckles, Clips, and Snaps" video =D It was kinda interesting trying to make a snapping function for something that is essentially a pipe with a 4 mm shell. It took a couple of tries but I finally got it working on the 3rd version.
This is great content. The spirit of why 3D printing can serve any useful purpose. I am sick of videos where people print cat and dog figurines on 3D printers. Thanks very much and keep going.
I make 3D drawings of furniture, you can make them according to the drawings