This is awesome I love the “I had to sneak a lost foam casting into the video” aspect the dry sense of humor was really appreciated!! You do some amazing stuff and all self taught you are very talented.
Very nice informative video Kelly. I use to run a 5 x 10 foot Thermwood model 53 turret CNC. I use to make large drawings with a shop built insert sharpie holder. Always wanted to get a drag knife for it, boss didn't understand its use. Caught the CNC on fire once and had to use the machine to cut a new plenum out of HDPE. Good times 😂
quite detailed and interesting, thank you ! Could one position the "woopdidoos" in lost area, like where the start of a plasma cut start is located to preserve cutting edge quality ?
It's because they are automatically placed by the plugin/script and I haven't figured out how to make them land on the waste side of the stock. The plugin was written by a CB Forum member. I'm not sure he is still active but I've gone back and posed the question again. Best, Kelly
Over the years I've made a lot of gaskets using a LASER engraver setup. And even some with what looked burnt on the edges after being cut out worked perfectly. Another idea is to either take the old gasket, or the part that it is going to fit one, if you can, and use a scanner to copy the gasket surface needing a gasket and transfer that to the LASER engraver to cut a new gasket out. Some times you have to get creative... Thumbs Up!
Thanks for the additional information. I have an SST knife and I like it for the cardboard and coroplast that I cut but I too have had issue cutting small holes/radiuses. I use LDF for my waste board. I never been able to use MDF. I'm going to have to try one of the vinyl cutting knife and the peg board.
Even with the peg board, if you have a very small piece of stock, the hold down strength may not be enough depending on the material, depth of cut, and resulting cutting forces. In that case, I use tape to hold the stock. The same is true if you drill a bunch of holes that cause loss of vacuum. Best, Kelly
I make gaskets with low angle V shaped bit. Haven't yet made vacuum table, so I just tape perimeter of material with painters tape. Works well with your type of gasket material, gasket cardboard and exhaust gasket with steel wire in it too [: Edges not as crisp as with the knife but work well enough.
WOW Why cant I find a friend with your kind of intelligence:) I am super impressed with your channel and cannot wait to see some more of your castings!! I just built a diesel furnace half the size you have and I have a 4x8 CNC that I want to try this smaller vac table on. Can you suggest the size of shop vac you use?
Nothing special about my shop vac other than it's one of the higher capacity ones....15 amps. Other than that just make sure it's a wet/dry vac to the motor cooling air is seperate from the vacuum air.....which will be dead headed. Best, Kelly
8:03 I thought about making one of these boards using pladtic beads that would seal the hole i it was uncovered when the vacuum us turned on. If something covering the holes, the vacuum will pull it down. It would be a pain to assemble. Multiple layers, then tiny beads and possibly springs and the with holes on roughly 5/16" - 3/8" centers, automatically closing when turned on if not covered the rushing air moves the bead sealing the holes. It could be interesting..
Carbide 3D sells a somewhat similar spindle mounted drag knife that also uses those small cheap vinyl cutter blades. Not sure how good it is but it's very reasonable priced less than $50 including fair number of blades.
Another question for smaller holes could you set the depth shallow , . You just answered my question at about the 27 minutes mark. I was going to suggest just marking the holes. And using a separate punch tool to cut perfect holes. My set, made for leather, goes from 1/8", 3/16", 1/4", 5/16", 3/8", 7/16", 1/2", 9/16", 5/8", and 3/4". Im sure they would make perfect holes in gasket material, just like they do in leather, vinyl and heavy cloth.
The holes could be milled or drilled too, but that can cause loss of vacuum/holding, and optimally, I want to avoid a tool change (I dont have an auto changer) or secondary ops, especially if cutting a large number of nested features/gaskets. Best, Kelly
I'm not sure what links or website you are referring to, but those links are in the signature block of any of my posts on www.TheHomeFoundry.org You must be a member and be logged in to see the signature block of any forum member. Best, Kelly
There is nothing wrong with that. I use those for my vintage car, 1931 Riley 9 War Department and motorbikes. Same way it was done 100 years ago and work perfectly. I cut up my boots for seals in the rear axles.
They are press fit. I bought 1/4" diameter precision ground dowel pins from McMaster Carr of the desired length. They pressed nicely into the 1/4" bearing bore. Best, Kelly
It's because they are automatically placed by the plugin/script and I haven't figured out how to make them land on the waste side of the stock. The plugin was written by a CB Forum member. I'm not sure he is still active but I've gone back and posed the question again. Best, Kelly
Once again, you have opened my eyes as to what is possible in one man's garage. Thank you for your video.
This is awesome I love the “I had to sneak a lost foam casting into the video” aspect the dry sense of humor was really appreciated!! You do some amazing stuff and all self taught you are very talented.
Very nice informative video Kelly. I use to run a 5 x 10 foot Thermwood model 53 turret CNC. I use to make large drawings with a shop built insert sharpie holder. Always wanted to get a drag knife for it, boss didn't understand its use. Caught the CNC on fire once and had to use the machine to cut a new plenum out of HDPE. Good times 😂
Thanks for sharing the learning you did.
Yes, what great research, and clear, detailed video - thanks!
My first job after college was working for a plotter manufacturer that made vinyl sign cutters.
quite detailed and interesting, thank you ! Could one position the "woopdidoos" in lost area, like where the start of a plasma cut start is located to preserve cutting edge quality ?
It's because they are automatically placed by the plugin/script and I haven't figured out how to make them land on the waste side of the stock. The plugin was written by a CB Forum member. I'm not sure he is still active but I've gone back and posed the question again. Best, Kelly
Over the years I've made a lot of gaskets using a LASER engraver setup. And even some with what looked burnt on the edges after being cut out worked perfectly. Another idea is to either take the old gasket, or the part that it is going to fit one, if you can, and use a scanner to copy the gasket surface needing a gasket and transfer that to the LASER engraver to cut a new gasket out. Some times you have to get creative... Thumbs Up!
Do you recall the gasket material, thickness , and laser wattage? Best, Kelly
@@kellycoffield533 Well mostly I used the typical auto store gasket material and cut on a 25 watt C02 LASER system. Never had any issues ever...
Thanks for the additional information. I have an SST knife and I like it for the cardboard and coroplast that I cut but I too have had issue cutting small holes/radiuses. I use LDF for my waste board. I never been able to use MDF. I'm going to have to try one of the vinyl cutting knife and the peg board.
Even with the peg board, if you have a very small piece of stock, the hold down strength may not be enough depending on the material, depth of cut, and resulting cutting forces. In that case, I use tape to hold the stock. The same is true if you drill a bunch of holes that cause loss of vacuum. Best, Kelly
I make gaskets with low angle V shaped bit. Haven't yet made vacuum table, so I just tape perimeter of material with painters tape. Works well with your type of gasket material, gasket cardboard and exhaust gasket with steel wire in it too [: Edges not as crisp as with the knife but work well enough.
WOW Why cant I find a friend with your kind of intelligence:) I am super impressed with your channel and cannot wait to see some more of your castings!! I just built a diesel furnace half the size you have and I have a 4x8 CNC that I want to try this smaller vac table on. Can you suggest the size of shop vac you use?
Nothing special about my shop vac other than it's one of the higher capacity ones....15 amps. Other than that just make sure it's a wet/dry vac to the motor cooling air is seperate from the vacuum air.....which will be dead headed. Best, Kelly
8:03 I thought about making one of these boards using pladtic beads that would seal the hole i it was uncovered when the vacuum us turned on. If something covering the holes, the vacuum will pull it down. It would be a pain to assemble. Multiple layers, then tiny beads and possibly springs and the with holes on roughly 5/16" - 3/8" centers, automatically closing when turned on if not covered the rushing air moves the bead sealing the holes. It could be interesting..
Great video as usual Kelly! Those drag knives are something else! I am wondering if you would ever sell your aluminum holders at some point. Cheers.
Carbide 3D sells a somewhat similar spindle mounted drag knife that also uses those small cheap vinyl cutter blades. Not sure how good it is but it's very reasonable priced less than $50 including fair number of blades.
عمل رائع واصل.شكرا جزيلا.
Always impressed. Some day I hope to have a project worthy of your help.
Another question for smaller holes could you set the depth shallow , . You just answered my question at about the 27 minutes mark. I was going to suggest just marking the holes. And using a separate punch tool to cut perfect holes. My set, made for leather, goes from 1/8", 3/16", 1/4", 5/16", 3/8", 7/16", 1/2", 9/16", 5/8", and 3/4". Im sure they would make perfect holes in gasket material, just like they do in leather, vinyl and heavy cloth.
The holes could be milled or drilled too, but that can cause loss of vacuum/holding, and optimally, I want to avoid a tool change (I dont have an auto changer) or secondary ops, especially if cutting a large number of nested features/gaskets. Best, Kelly
Will there be any more videos on the CNC that you were casting? How about a tour of your furnace? The links on the website are dead.
I'm not sure what links or website you are referring to, but those links are in the signature block of any of my posts on www.TheHomeFoundry.org You must be a member and be logged in to see the signature block of any forum member. Best, Kelly
Look at the neje max 4 laser engraver they have those drag knifes on sale now at neje shop
That beats the exacto knives and the ball pin hammer
There is nothing wrong with that. I use those for my vintage car, 1931 Riley 9 War Department and motorbikes. Same way it was done 100 years ago and work perfectly. I cut up my boots for seals in the rear axles.
Oh thats looks so neat! Way cheaper to make them yourself i assume as well?
Are you accepting new work? How would one get in contact with you?
Would you be willing to share any details on the construction of the final aluminum drag knife. How is the 1/4" shaft connected to the bearings.
They are press fit. I bought 1/4" diameter precision ground dowel pins from McMaster Carr of the desired length. They pressed nicely into the 1/4" bearing bore. Best, Kelly
@@kellycoffield533 Thank You.
Is there a reason that you don't do the "drop in" woop-d-doos, in the waste area, opposed to in the finished gasket.
It's because they are automatically placed by the plugin/script and I haven't figured out how to make them land on the waste side of the stock. The plugin was written by a CB Forum member. I'm not sure he is still active but I've gone back and posed the question again. Best, Kelly
👍👍😎👍👍
Always great to see your new videos!