Coming off a torn LCL and a litany of chronic injuries the stoke has been wavering despite my hunger for pushing my sport grade. A summertime send of the classic Directissima 5.9 in the Gunks of New York starts with a rightwards trending ramp and a traverse around a blind turn following into pitch two: a menacing leftwards finger crack to fray your nerves a bit before the reachy vertical cruxes protected by the trusty ol' rusted pin. This upload is as much for myself as it is for you beta-seekers as a personal reminder there's still climbing to be done in my broken state :'(
Hey just a suggestion, that slippery ramp right off the deck can be protected by not extending the piece. Then it isn't just worthless psychological gear; it's real gear. You can place another piece, higher up, as soon as you get on the rock, and then reach down and back-clean the first piece.
I’m only leading 5.6 routes at the Gunks right now. An occasional 5.7 but I’d love to follow on some 5.8-5.9’s. I don’t like to lead anything I haven’t followed on before but my partner is leading 5.6-5.7 too 😂 great job!
the gunks forces you to take every grade seriously. For leading I think what helps your head is less so the grade but to seek out climbs with good protection reputation and work from there. I'd rather climb The Sting 5.11d than Annie Oh! 5.8 again hahah
Coming off a torn LCL and a litany of chronic injuries the stoke has been wavering despite my hunger for pushing my sport grade. A summertime send of the classic Directissima 5.9 in the Gunks of New York starts with a rightwards trending ramp and a traverse around a blind turn following into pitch two: a menacing leftwards finger crack to fray your nerves a bit before the reachy vertical cruxes protected by the trusty ol' rusted pin. This upload is as much for myself as it is for you beta-seekers as a personal reminder there's still climbing to be done in my broken state :'(
Hey just a suggestion, that slippery ramp right off the deck can be protected by not extending the piece. Then it isn't just worthless psychological gear; it's real gear. You can place another piece, higher up, as soon as you get on the rock, and then reach down and back-clean the first piece.
thanks, that's a great suggestion. There's so much odds and ends to trad I still need to learn 🥲
that was fun coming along for this ride! Thanks for filming.
thanks for the kind words!!
Blasted through both pitches in no time! 🙌
terror is a hell of a drug!
I’m only leading 5.6 routes at the Gunks right now. An occasional 5.7 but I’d love to follow on some 5.8-5.9’s. I don’t like to lead anything I haven’t followed on before but my partner is leading 5.6-5.7 too 😂 great job!
the gunks forces you to take every grade seriously. For leading I think what helps your head is less so the grade but to seek out climbs with good protection reputation and work from there. I'd rather climb The Sting 5.11d than Annie Oh! 5.8 again hahah
Living vicariously through the videos since I’m still too afraid to climb higher than 5.6 at the gunks lol
I'll be there again this saturday! Thanks for watching man. If you're there let me know. I have some shenanigans I'm thinking about getting into
LCL!? Zoinks broh
Get well for fall
thanks man 😢working on ittt
I don't remember purchasing a ticket to the gun show
more pewpew less q_q