That's a UK Apple USB plug. It's the best and safest design in the world...from an electrical perspective. It's the least safe and worst design in the world, from a standing on one of the bloody things perspective :)
@@S41t4r4 Probably over engineered to whats really needed. And its not the plug on its own but the plug and socket that makes it safer, all plugs have an earth pin (or plastic pin where the earth pin would be if the equipment doesnt need it) and that pin opens shutters that cover the live and neutral sockets. Makes it harder for curious kids to jam something metalic into them. Their only downside is size and agony induced when you step on them since most plugs are flat backed so naturally fall on the floor pins up.
@@greebobrat , I'm working on my angle grinder now, and what do you know, the plugs do fall pins up. Never noticed that before. I've also never stepped on one before. Why would I? Do you guys just leaves these things all over the floor? I leave mine in the sockets on the wall. Because every socket has it's own button switch, so there is never any reason to pull out the plugs.
how has that worked out 9 months later. after having mine in the same room for 2 nights i heard the sounds in my head for weeeeeks . to be fair it wasnt my ender the but a cheaper little mini printer.
The layer line in the high 5 could be due, in prusaslicer at least, to a setting called detect bridging perimeters (parameters?). It shows on benchies at the deck layer also and has been coined the waterline mark.
11:43 "A bracket. A brace. A thing that holds 2 pieces together." Woodworkers call them "clamps". This piece is a 90-degree corner clamp, which is perfect for clamping a glue joint at exactly 90 degrees. (Remember to use a joint with more surface area than a butt joint)
After watching this vudeo, my 4 year old days to me, "can we get a one of those so we can make a bunch of things?" Something else just got added to the "we're saving for" list. Thanks for the inspiration!
I would love it if you made a video of how to fix that layer imperfection, my ender three has been doing something kind of like that randomly and with more layers at a time so I am having a lot of trouble with printing flat walls, especially with short things like gears
The imperfection displayed on Raise is definitely not random in nature, it will be reproducible. If you're having a random issue, the investigation of this issue will not help you. You may want to hit up some forums or the support group on Facebook and give them the pictures of what's happening, perhaps they can help you investigate your issue.
@@RetroOnSpeedDial its because of the difference in outlet. Americans went for a simplistic approach, small and efficient. This does mean lack of room for safty features. While the UK took a safer approach but this limited the size to a brick. This give room to some safty features that is arguably unnecessary due to the fact that you don't hear about Americans frying themselves even though they use the plugs multiple times a day.
@@johnschwalb it is not unnecessary (in the UK) its because of the difference in power coming out of the socket it's probably unnecessary in the USA tho (hence why they didn't bother with safety features) USA uses 110v UK uses 240v so UK plugs NEEDED to be made safer as there's more than double the voltage flowing through it and a much higher chance you'll die if you electrocute yourself (however I have electrocuted myself with 240V and although it's not nice,it didn't kill me, the chances of somebody being fataly injured by 110v is much lower hence why you don't hear of people frying themselves in the USA (and why the lack of safety features), there's simply not enough power coming out of a US socket to do the job for most healthy people, sure it will give you a jolt but it aint gonna kill most people. however you don't hear of people frying themselves in the UK either (coz our plugs have built in safety features like fuses and automatic covers that seal the outlet once you take a plug out of the wall ;) each plug is as safe as it needs to be for the power grid you are plugging it into
One of the reasons I subscribed to your channel was for the enthusiasm you have for 3D printing and the printing useful things. This episode reaffirmed that. Thank you for being the Happy 3D Guru that you are. It's a good thing for these weird and scary times.
Joel, I'd love to dig into what's causing the layer line in the transition between the bottom and the wall. I'm seeing that pop up all over on 2 Original Prusa MK3S (Prusa Slicer) and a Lulzbot Workhorse (Cura). It's worse on the Workhorse.
Firstly... 3D printing is surely amazing. I have a Llama that's in a llama in a llama in a llama in a vise in a llama stowed neatly into a Spannerhands rocket. I'd like to see an injection moulding press do that as cheaply! Second... that iPhone charger is a UK spec plug. One of (if not ) the safest plugs in use for these reasons: The ground pin acts as a safety interlock and when inserted into a socket, drops a shutter that covers the line and neutral pins. Without the ground pin it's very difficult to safely insert a plug into the socket. We have well rated fuses in all compliant plugs to prevent overloading if a device shorts out The plug has an intentionally wide body and sleeved line and neutral pins to prevent the user from touching the live pins when inserting the plug.
I'd love to see you tackling the layer issue. It's always puzzled me a little and happens on both of my printers. Infill contracting would make sense, at least.
Tools making tools is a cool concept. Seeing what kind of functional and useful tools can be made, how strong they can be and potentially how durable they can be.
The adapter is a Type G plug, used in the United Kingdom, Ireland, Malta, Malaysia & Singapore.("You've obviously never been to Singapore.") And that EVA foam filament looks very interesting. (since EVA is used extensively in cosplay)
I use Prusa i3 mk3s and that layer line in high 5 black part appear very often. Especially between a soild base and a wall. I really want to know how to solve that problem.
The Apple plug is from the UK. The top prong is mainly a safety protocol that is a standard for any electronic device in the UK. In our power outlets it has a small catch which enables the earthing and to make sure nothing gets connected mistakenly. The top prong pushes the clip within the power outlet and connects the earth. Odd explanation but that’s around about what it’s for 😂
6:00 wow. I’ve never gotten supports to make that clean of a layer on top of them. It always looks kind of like it’s woven, more like the chin but more organized.
So that happens to me on my mk3s with BMG extruder. I printed two modular storage containers, after the first print I tried to tighten my z-axis steppers and supports. While it did not completely fix the issue it did significantly reduce how much the line protruded. Same G-code and settings.
Can you print the holster from multiple materials to see if the layer line disappears/diminish depending on material. I believe that will help determine if its material vs infill issue
Its a UK apple charger, The UK sockets have a cover over the live and neutral to stop children sticking stuff in and getting a shock, the Earth pin opens the slots to allow the live/neutral to go in. and provide an earth path before the live is connected to prevent shock if the case of the appliance went live and trigger the fuse to blow again to protect
I think the line is caused by the printer slowing down on that layer, and trying to create a better foundation for the print. Looking at the bottom it has the same curve as that of the base layer going into the upper layers. Plus if it is a smaller layer, the slower printing increases the time the printer head is their heating the filament. But the main problem must Also be adhesion, as then the layers following seem fine after the 3rd layer. As the second layer comes in, most likely covering and adhering from the first layer. With the third sticking better with the last layer setting the foundation over the imperfection. With out the previous layers having adhesion, the base layer at the imperfection could have been dragged and pushed to the side by the printer head, since they did not cool on the shorter printer layer print time.
Great video. I'm curious on what you would rate this printer now that you've had it a few months. Or what printer you would choose over this at this price range.
I've had a hankering to print some stuff so I think I'll make a few from this list! I like the two vises and also I just NEED to print a high-five guard!
This was a great video showcasing some really functional prints! I really like the USB flash drive/microSD card organizer and the circuit board vise. Very, very nice! I really like this product by Raise3D. I had visited their website a few months ago and it has a great presentation of the products. This is what my idea of an ideal 3D printer is when you consider ease of use, build quality, versatility of materials that can be used and general access to your physical print at all times. Now I have to find the $3500 to get one! Thanks, Joel.
Thank you Joel for printing the llama planter, you did a great job pronouncing my name the way you did, it's Arabic so yeah. sorry to make the llama chine so hard to print, LOL. Please say Hi to Ann, and tell her to post a picture when she plants in them, high five from Lebanon, Middle east.
I don't have much need, normally, for a food dehumidifier. Is it really that big of a deal to make sure the filament is THAT dry? (Bought an ender 3 pro, hasn't arrived yet. Very new to 3d printing.)
Hey Joel.. Can you do a full video about TPU Filament Designing With Fusion 360, Extruding Filament Control, Storage of Filament, Using Filaments, Printing of Filaments,? I got a Tronxy X5SA 3D Printer now and just started the long learning of Filaments. My Printer will soon have a upgrade of a Titan Extruder designed for this Printer to do Flexible TPU filament. I only done some testing of PLA and ABS ( that one is hard to use ) But I would love you to go through the TPU use etc.? HI FIVE : ) great video BTW.
Definitely would love a foam battle video, it’s a very very very exciting material, the fubar though 🤣 love it, for the first few hits i so thought the spike was going to penetrate the plywood!
Please go all in and explain/ explore those lines that appear when the model changes in x y axis, I get them aswell sometimes and would very much want to get rid if those
would definitely love to get the EVA foam filament working. maybe on an E3D Lite6 PTFE lined hotend?maybe sacrifice a Pulse, replace the V6 with a Lite6 and some Capricorn, maybe that would help things?
I've had the 'Christmas' feeling quite a lot this weekend too, but it only lasts through removing the brim as the sanding of many supports mode kicks in. Sigh... Love your little pick-me-up clips though. That should carry me all day!
I have been looking for EVA filament for over a year now. Was tempted to make an extruder specifically for making it because I couldn't get a factory to make it for me for less than a few thousand dollars.
I have a suggestion for a practical print. Can you 3D print a functionally identical pair of Wiley-X SG-1 polycarbonate bullet proof goggles/glasses? The lens material needs to be optically clear, possibly with auto-tinting to adjust from dark to light under varying light conditions. The frame can be any color as long as it provides the same characteristics of the original. Use the foam filament to make the removable gaskets. As in the original design of the SG-1 the lenses need to be removable and stop a .15 caliber object travelling at a rate of 600 to 650 feet per second. Can the elastic head strap be 3D printed of a similar elastic filament? The SG-1 is touted as being able to convert to glasses by unclipping the head strap to attach the temples. This design never really worked and so without the retention cord placed at the ends it would always fall off. Is that something you could correct with your version?
Hey Joel, thanks for the videos and I'm really interested in seeing the EVA prints also a comparison of it with different flexible materials would be great !!
I would like to see more prints with the soluble support PVA and dissolve it with water. We have an ancient Stratasys printer at work that uses soluble support and I would like to replace it with the Raise 3d printer.
How's thie Raise3D E2 compare with BCN3D R19 Sigma? Both 3D printers has many similarities.... Independence Dual Extruders, Duplication mode, A4 size print volume (E2's a bit larger)
I'd love to see a video in which you print something like the tent spike in multiple copies with several materials and test how well and how far each can be hammered into materials of various hardness
Joel's Garden, a poem: Mamma llama, little llama, high five blue. Benchy by the blossom bulbs, abandoned by it's captain. Planter with a pointy chin, Printed jaws to capture him. Clamps for corners, clips for a vice. Seven called for, six shall do. Mamma llama, little llama, high five blue.
I have it on Prusa MK3S. A possibility is that it's happening when the top layer isn't exact multiple of the the layer height Ex: top layer 5mm layer height 0.2mm ( includes first layer height ) =25 layers. If you have the layer height at 0.18 and the first layer at 0.2.. (5−0.2)÷0.18=26.6666666667 layers.... My idea is that it's probably print 0.2mm + 26×0.18mm+ the final layer at 0.12mm ( squeezed ).
I have experienced that a lot on my Prusa i3 mk2.5 and I would love to see a video detailing the issue as I’m sure a lot of people have also experienced it
Usb charger is English/UK pattern plug the long pin is the earth pin , the other 2 are depends whether your looking but ones live/positive , other is negative cool you got 1 of the safest plugs made cool video
You mentioned a rose works filament clipper.. but did not post a link (since it was a throw-away reference)... was that found on Thingaverse? I was unable to find it. You also mentioned an Olsen Ruby
The filament clipper was a gift from a show I went to, and Olsson makes a Ruby nozzle and the thing I showed is what people can use to unscrew the nozzle
@@3DPrintingNerd Thank you so much. I have a filament clipper that I printed, and it works fine, yours was just more compact, and it's always fun to try new things. Thanks again for your channel!
You should make a new shift knob for your car from the ASA material. I remember long ago you made it from the HTPLA, but you might try now the ASA to see how it stands up compared to the HTPLA. Awesome video as always.
Is the E2 able to print filled filament, ie, plastic wood or carbon combo? Is 280 C hit enough or does it have to be 300 C? ps, excellent video, than you for sharing!!
I am interested in purchasing a 3D Printer something like CR 20 Pro 3D Printer or something with the same specs. Do you have any suggestions. Great video as always.
I see that layer line issue on any print that has a top layer, supports, or features like writing when it stops and the perimeters keep going. Ive not been able to fix it. Not sure what's causing it either.
Hello teacher, I have a 3d pohon. I want to scan and create some ideas but I don't know how to start designing and printing. Could you help me? I'm from Mexico.
Thanks for another great episode! Very informative and entertaining. I think cabin fever has started though because now your beating thing to death. LOL. Keep up the good work!
That's a UK Apple USB plug. It's the best and safest design in the world...from an electrical perspective. It's the least safe and worst design in the world, from a standing on one of the bloody things perspective :)
It is not really safer in comparison to other plugs used in their repective systems.
@@S41t4r4 Probably over engineered to whats really needed. And its not the plug on its own but the plug and socket that makes it safer, all plugs have an earth pin (or plastic pin where the earth pin would be if the equipment doesnt need it) and that pin opens shutters that cover the live and neutral sockets. Makes it harder for curious kids to jam something metalic into them. Their only downside is size and agony induced when you step on them since most plugs are flat backed so naturally fall on the floor pins up.
@@greebobrat , I'm working on my angle grinder now, and what do you know, the plugs do fall pins up. Never noticed that before. I've also never stepped on one before. Why would I? Do you guys just leaves these things all over the floor? I leave mine in the sockets on the wall. Because every socket has it's own button switch, so there is never any reason to pull out the plugs.
Nigel Brodt-Savage Anyone can make something that works, but it takes an engineer to make something that barely works.
Sore dose alright 😅
I have an Ender 3 printing next to me, and that's mostly because of you. Thanks a lot.
how has that worked out 9 months later. after having mine in the same room for 2 nights i heard the sounds in my head for weeeeeks . to be fair it wasnt my ender the but a cheaper little mini printer.
@@wickedcityracer SKR Mini E3 V2 with TMC 2209, super quiet!
@@wickedcityracer silent stepper drivers should improve that
The layer line in the high 5 could be due, in prusaslicer at least, to a setting called detect bridging perimeters (parameters?). It shows on benchies at the deck layer also and has been coined the waterline mark.
I thought he had used idear maker
Try adding a small fillet to the inside corner where the rim intersects the top surface of the base.
11:43 "A bracket. A brace. A thing that holds 2 pieces together."
Woodworkers call them "clamps". This piece is a 90-degree corner clamp, which is perfect for clamping a glue joint at exactly 90 degrees. (Remember to use a joint with more surface area than a butt joint)
After watching this vudeo, my 4 year old days to me, "can we get a one of those so we can make a bunch of things?" Something else just got added to the "we're saving for" list. Thanks for the inspiration!
I would love it if you made a video of how to fix that layer imperfection, my ender three has been doing something kind of like that randomly and with more layers at a time so I am having a lot of trouble with printing flat walls, especially with short things like gears
The imperfection displayed on Raise is definitely not random in nature, it will be reproducible. If you're having a random issue, the investigation of this issue will not help you. You may want to hit up some forums or the support group on Facebook and give them the pictures of what's happening, perhaps they can help you investigate your issue.
Siana Gearz I never said anything here but I think the issue was from my lead screw not being secure and was not moving it like it should
That USB Charger is from the UK
@@RetroOnSpeedDial its because of the difference in outlet. Americans went for a simplistic approach, small and efficient. This does mean lack of room for safty features. While the UK took a safer approach but this limited the size to a brick. This give room to some safty features that is arguably unnecessary due to the fact that you don't hear about Americans frying themselves even though they use the plugs multiple times a day.
@@johnschwalb it is not unnecessary (in the UK) its because of the difference in power coming out of the socket
it's probably unnecessary in the USA tho (hence why they didn't bother with safety features)
USA uses 110v UK uses 240v so UK plugs NEEDED to be made safer as there's more than double the voltage flowing through it and a much higher chance you'll die if you electrocute yourself
(however I have electrocuted myself with 240V and although it's not nice,it didn't kill me, the chances of somebody being fataly injured by 110v is much lower hence why you don't hear of people frying themselves in the USA (and why the lack of safety features), there's simply not enough power coming out of a US socket to do the job for most healthy people, sure it will give you a jolt but it aint gonna kill most people.
however you don't hear of people frying themselves in the UK either (coz our plugs have built in safety features like fuses and automatic covers that seal the outlet once you take a plug out of the wall ;)
each plug is as safe as it needs to be for the power grid you are plugging it into
I’d like to see more on the EVA.
Seriously impressed with this printer. The USB storage box was simple, but so clean and the first layer of the high five palm looked perfect.
could you explore the EVA filament please, i would be very interested to hear more about that filament! love you vids, all the best!
One of the reasons I subscribed to your channel was for the enthusiasm you have for 3D printing and the printing useful things. This episode reaffirmed that. Thank you for being the Happy 3D Guru that you are. It's a good thing for these weird and scary times.
Yes: more tests and prints of flexible filaments !
(and showing the prints like in this episode :)
Joel, I'd love to dig into what's causing the layer line in the transition between the bottom and the wall. I'm seeing that pop up all over on 2 Original Prusa MK3S (Prusa Slicer) and a Lulzbot Workhorse (Cura). It's worse on the Workhorse.
Please investigate the line! Struggling with a more severe version of that
That corner clamp is awesome! I do just as much woodworking as 3d printing, and I never have enough clamps.
YES! Another nerdy video is always welcome!
Firstly... 3D printing is surely amazing. I have a Llama that's in a llama in a llama in a llama in a vise in a llama stowed neatly into a Spannerhands rocket. I'd like to see an injection moulding press do that as cheaply!
Second...
that iPhone charger is a UK spec plug. One of (if not ) the safest plugs in use for these reasons:
The ground pin acts as a safety interlock and when inserted into a socket, drops a shutter that covers the line and neutral pins. Without the ground pin it's very difficult to safely insert a plug into the socket.
We have well rated fuses in all compliant plugs to prevent overloading if a device shorts out
The plug has an intentionally wide body and sleeved line and neutral pins to prevent the user from touching the live pins when inserting the plug.
I'd love to see you tackling the layer issue. It's always puzzled me a little and happens on both of my printers. Infill contracting would make sense, at least.
Tools making tools is a cool concept. Seeing what kind of functional and useful tools can be made, how strong they can be and potentially how durable they can be.
The adapter is a Type G plug, used in the United Kingdom, Ireland, Malta, Malaysia & Singapore.("You've obviously never been to Singapore.")
And that EVA foam filament looks very interesting. (since EVA is used extensively in cosplay)
I'm loving that tent peg. That's a beautiful print.
I use Prusa i3 mk3s and that layer line in high 5 black part appear very often. Especially between a soild base and a wall. I really want to know how to solve that problem.
yes - we want to see you mitigate the layer contraction issue. Try measuring it and offset the first few layers to accomodate warping.
To print elastic on Raise machines just remove Teflon guide tubes. No clogging anymore and no additional friction. That is all secret.
Highly interested in the EVA filament and also eager to get my hands on some. Especially to make custom inserts for cases for camera equipment etc...
How about multi layer spike?
Inner part to the tip hard material outer layer not so hard so it has some give..
Like special knives are made(San Mai).
The Apple plug is from the UK. The top prong is mainly a safety protocol that is a standard for any electronic device in the UK. In our power outlets it has a small catch which enables the earthing and to make sure nothing gets connected mistakenly. The top prong pushes the clip within the power outlet and connects the earth. Odd explanation but that’s around about what it’s for 😂
Are you using the IDEAMAKER software to set up your dual nozzle prints (like the Llama with the PVA under the chin and the wipe wall)?
WOW the print quality is amazing! Sadly the price of the printer is overwhelming. :D
it's not expensive when you compare it to an ultimaker. and the e2 is better in every way.
ms3bani Nothing is expensive when you compare it to an Ultimaker
6:00 wow. I’ve never gotten supports to make that clean of a layer on top of them. It always looks kind of like it’s woven, more like the chin but more organized.
For the tent spike, I think the word you're looking for is "tough," which formally means a material's "resistance to fracture."
I'd like to see an episode on that EVA filament. It looks like a really interesting material. Also great video!
So that happens to me on my mk3s with BMG extruder. I printed two modular storage containers, after the first print I tried to tighten my z-axis steppers and supports. While it did not completely fix the issue it did significantly reduce how much the line protruded. Same G-code and settings.
Fact that you printed 4 lama planters shows that quarantine is getting your mind.
Can you print the holster from multiple materials to see if the layer line disappears/diminish depending on material. I believe that will help determine if its material vs infill issue
It’s the first time I’ve noticed the voice of Sean icon pop up! I must say I thought it was an awesome idea! Well played Sean!
Its a UK apple charger, The UK sockets have a cover over the live and neutral to stop children sticking stuff in and getting a shock, the Earth pin opens the slots to allow the live/neutral to go in. and provide an earth path before the live is connected to prevent shock if the case of the appliance went live and trigger the fuse to blow again to protect
I think the line is caused by the printer slowing down on that layer, and trying to create a better foundation for the print. Looking at the bottom it has the same curve as that of the base layer going into the upper layers. Plus if it is a smaller layer, the slower printing increases the time the printer head is their heating the filament. But the main problem must Also be adhesion, as then the layers following seem fine after the 3rd layer. As the second layer comes in, most likely covering and adhering from the first layer. With the third sticking better with the last layer setting the foundation over the imperfection. With out the previous layers having adhesion, the base layer at the imperfection could have been dragged and pushed to the side by the printer head, since they did not cool on the shorter printer layer print time.
Great video. I'm curious on what you would rate this printer now that you've had it a few months. Or what printer you would choose over this at this price range.
I've had a hankering to print some stuff so I think I'll make a few from this list! I like the two vises and also I just NEED to print a high-five guard!
I run into that sidewall problem a lot - would love to see you look into it!
This was a great video showcasing some really functional prints! I really like the USB flash drive/microSD card organizer and the circuit board vise. Very, very nice! I really like this product by Raise3D. I had visited their website a few months ago and it has a great presentation of the products. This is what my idea of an ideal 3D printer is when you consider ease of use, build quality, versatility of materials that can be used and general access to your physical print at all times. Now I have to find the $3500 to get one! Thanks, Joel.
Love from southeast Washington. Stay safe up there & have fun while staying home!
Very very very interested in doing something about that shrink on the High Five Protector
love to see a large PC Max print on the E2 to see if there are shrink and warp issues...
how do you get the supports to look like that? and to come off that easily? i always have trouble with my supports.
Thank you Joel for printing the llama planter, you did a great job pronouncing my name the way you did, it's Arabic so yeah. sorry to make the llama chine so hard to print, LOL. Please say Hi to Ann, and tell her to post a picture when she plants in them, high five from Lebanon, Middle east.
How have the nozzles held up with abrasive filament on the e2?
I don't have much need, normally, for a food dehumidifier. Is it really that big of a deal to make sure the filament is THAT dry? (Bought an ender 3 pro, hasn't arrived yet. Very new to 3d printing.)
Hey Joel.. Can you do a full video about TPU Filament Designing With Fusion 360, Extruding Filament Control, Storage of Filament, Using Filaments, Printing of Filaments,? I got a Tronxy X5SA 3D Printer now and just started the long learning of Filaments. My Printer will soon have a upgrade of a Titan Extruder designed for this Printer to do Flexible TPU filament. I only done some testing of PLA and ABS ( that one is hard to use ) But I would love you to go through the TPU use etc.? HI FIVE : ) great video BTW.
Definitely would love a foam battle video, it’s a very very very exciting material, the fubar though 🤣 love it, for the first few hits i so thought the spike was going to penetrate the plywood!
At equal print quality compared to lower priced printers, can you print a single part _faster_ with a Raise3D E2?
Please go all in and explain/ explore those lines that appear when the model changes in x y axis, I get them aswell sometimes and would very much want to get rid if those
I would like to see a 0 to 1" outside micrometer desk holder with some sort of non-marring screw to lock it in. Thanks.
Does this printer let you change the nozzles? I would love to see how it does with materials that are glass fiber infused or carbon fiber infused.
would definitely love to get the EVA foam filament working. maybe on an E3D Lite6 PTFE lined hotend?maybe sacrifice a Pulse, replace the V6 with a Lite6 and some Capricorn, maybe that would help things?
You should do a fishing rod with the PCTPE material, the fishing rod should be printed in parts
I've had the 'Christmas' feeling quite a lot this weekend too, but it only lasts through removing the brim as the sanding of many supports mode kicks in. Sigh...
Love your little pick-me-up clips though. That should carry me all day!
Did you print the electronic vice clamp all in one go?
Hey Joel, here’s a question: What’s the cheapest way to build/buy a multimaterial setup? Just curious, I’m not actually in the market. Thanks!
What did you change in the settings to get such good printing results with the Lama?
I have been looking for EVA filament for over a year now. Was tempted to make an extruder specifically for making it because I couldn't get a factory to make it for me for less than a few thousand dollars.
I have a suggestion for a practical print. Can you 3D print a functionally identical pair of Wiley-X SG-1 polycarbonate bullet proof goggles/glasses? The lens material needs to be optically clear, possibly with auto-tinting to adjust from dark to light under varying light conditions. The frame can be any color as long as it provides the same characteristics of the original. Use the foam filament to make the removable gaskets. As in the original design of the SG-1 the lenses need to be removable and stop a .15 caliber object travelling at a rate of 600 to 650 feet per second.
Can the elastic head strap be 3D printed of a similar elastic filament? The SG-1 is touted as being able to convert to glasses by unclipping the head strap to attach the temples. This design never really worked and so without the retention cord placed at the ends it would always fall off. Is that something you could correct with your version?
Hey Joel, thanks for the videos and I'm really interested in seeing the EVA prints also a comparison of it with different flexible materials would be great !!
Question how do you get so many visually smooth prints
Hey Joel I would love to see that layer imperfection trouble shoot. My ender does the same thing but I doubt it has anything to do with infill
Very interested in the EVA foam filament.. Please do more research and show us all how to use it without clogging our nozzles.. ;)
Can you talk about metal injection moulding and how it could change additive manufacturing forever?
more durable tent pegs would be an amazing thing. you have no idea how many i've broken over the years...
Just buy cheap 10" nails at the hardware store, they do a perfect job and are unbreakable.
Ooh, man really like that idea.
I would like to see more prints with the soluble support PVA and dissolve it with water. We have an ancient Stratasys printer at work that uses soluble support and I would like to replace it with the Raise 3d printer.
Hi. Would you recommend the Pro 2 or the E2 for exotic filaments like ABS ect..? Thank you.
How's thie Raise3D E2 compare with BCN3D R19 Sigma? Both 3D printers has many similarities.... Independence Dual Extruders, Duplication mode, A4 size print volume (E2's a bit larger)
nice! 🤘😲🤘. hey is thingiverse not really working for anyone else
??
I'd love to see a video in which you print something like the tent spike in multiple copies with several materials and test how well and how far each can be hammered into materials of various hardness
Joel's Garden, a poem:
Mamma llama, little llama, high five blue.
Benchy by the blossom bulbs, abandoned by it's captain.
Planter with a pointy chin,
Printed jaws to capture him.
Clamps for corners, clips for a vice.
Seven called for, six shall do.
Mamma llama, little llama, high five blue.
Joel, you may want to try the Tree Support in Cura, produced great prints for me.
I have it on Prusa MK3S. A possibility is that it's happening when the top layer isn't exact multiple of the the layer height
Ex: top layer 5mm layer height 0.2mm ( includes first layer height ) =25 layers. If you have the layer height at 0.18 and the first layer at 0.2.. (5−0.2)÷0.18=26.6666666667 layers....
My idea is that it's probably print 0.2mm + 26×0.18mm+ the final layer at 0.12mm ( squeezed ).
I seriously love your channel, you never fail to amaze me.
That's a funny idea for a plug. I'm guessing it's annoying, cause it doesn't fit in an extention cord or whatever it's called.
I have experienced that a lot on my Prusa i3 mk2.5 and I would love to see a video detailing the issue as I’m sure a lot of people have also experienced it
The circuit board holder would be good to try in ESD safe filament.
Print some Eva armour?? Since people use it to make armour already..
Or maybe some EVA v TPU/TPE ..
Just curious about the printer's hot end housing; looks like a PA 11 nylon.
Usb charger is English/UK pattern plug the long pin is the earth pin , the other 2 are depends whether your looking but ones live/positive , other is negative cool you got 1 of the safest plugs made cool video
You mentioned a rose works filament clipper.. but did not post a link (since it was a throw-away reference)... was that found on Thingaverse? I was unable to find it. You also mentioned an Olsen Ruby
The filament clipper was a gift from a show I went to, and Olsson makes a Ruby nozzle and the thing I showed is what people can use to unscrew the nozzle
@@3DPrintingNerd Thank you so much. I have a filament clipper that I printed, and it works fine, yours was just more compact, and it's always fun to try new things. Thanks again for your channel!
Am I wrong or are there often problems with warping at the prints you show here? Looks like.
You should make a new shift knob for your car from the ASA material. I remember long ago you made it from the HTPLA, but you might try now the ASA to see how it stands up compared to the HTPLA. Awesome video as always.
Is the E2 able to print filled filament, ie, plastic wood or carbon combo? Is 280 C hit enough or does it have to be 300 C?
ps, excellent video, than you for sharing!!
Can you show examples of carbon fiber alloy plastics? Thnx :)
I am interested in purchasing a 3D Printer something like CR 20 Pro 3D Printer or something with the same specs. Do you have any suggestions. Great video as always.
I see that layer line issue on any print that has a top layer, supports, or features like writing when it stops and the perimeters keep going. Ive not been able to fix it. Not sure what's causing it either.
That would be really cool, you can go fishing with it then
Hello teacher, I have a 3d pohon. I want to scan and create some ideas but I don't know how to start designing and printing. Could you help me? I'm from Mexico.
What blue filiment for the Cubes?
What are you doing with all the empty spools?
what is you support settings , i cant get my support to work like yours
what about making a tent spike out of the metal type of filament and then doing a similar test :D see what happens.
I got an iPhone when I was visiting friends in Lebanon and It came with that plug. (I live in turkey, we have EU-like plugs normally)
Great test
Like the prints
Thanks for sharing👍😀
Thanks for another great episode! Very informative and entertaining. I think cabin fever has started though because now your beating thing to death. LOL. Keep up the good work!