Hello Maker Muse, I use a Raise 3D N2 + professionally. I have overcome some of the issues you described in your video, I would suggest you print with a Raft. The nozzle height off of the bed needs to be 0.25mm. The Raise includes a feeler gauge of 0.2mm to help set the height. To reduce the possibility of the nozzles colliding with the print, set the Zhop to a distance slightly higher than the layer height. Also when using a larger nozzle, the raft offset height needs to be adjusted. I print with a 0.8mm nozzle, usually with a 0.6mm layer height and my offset is 0.45mm. The same goes for the supports. You will need to experiment a little to get the settings right. The Raise3D N2 Plus is a sweet machine. I have printed some seriously huge prints for work as well as 0.1mm layer height items. Both have been exceptional. Cheers
Have you had issues with the touch screen? I see quite a few users have suffered failing screens. Some of them use a plugged mouse, others diy replacement screens (stock screens are hard to find and quotes run at 500 USD). I can have a great deal for this machine but am quite hesitant because of the know screen issue + lack of support from the brand about it. Seller says there is "just" an issue with the screen.
I got this printer for work and it's key feature is how easy it is to get people printing on it. Default print settings are spot on, and it can be trusted to run overnight when required. Most people that have used it hadn't 3D printed before and I haven't had to hand hold through raft/brim/support placement, they just click the quality setting they want and support on/off and it's printing. We've printed the max Z height and it turned out great, but I'm not sure how often we'll need to do that, but it's good to have the option. I'm tempted to put a 0.6 or 1mm nozzle in the second position, but I don't think I'll ever get it level again, I've had that issue on a DIY printer I made.
I've had one of these printers for about a year now. I replaced one of the nozzles with a .8mm and keep the other one at .4mm. That way I don't need to change the nozzle, just the settings in the slicer when I'm wanting to print something fast versus something detailed. You kinda brushed off the detail this printer can handle, but I've found it does very small things very well. Better than any other printer I've ever had. And while sometimes it seams silly to have a massive printer print a part that's only 20mm long, it's nice that it can do both.
I don't have a 3d printer and I don't think I intend to get one any time soon, but I'm still subscribed with notifications turned on because I love your videos! It's really interesting to hear you talk about these things, and I like how you always present your thoughts in a well-reasoned, easy-to-understand manner.
It needs both a touch probe and an inductive probe. Capacitive touch sensors can be used to detect missed steps, in addition to levelling the bed. They can be overly sensitive to stray stimulation though, so you need the inductive sensor to act as a baseline.
I have a Raise 3D N2 I bought on their Kickstarter. Love it. One thing you didn't mention was their wireless printing. One of the best features. No need to carry a thumb drive. You can also monitor the printer and send new jobs while it's printing.
Have you had issues with the touch screen? I see quite a few users have suffered failing screens. Some of them use a plugged mouse, others diy replacement screens (stock screens are hard to find and quotes run at 500 USD). I can have a great deal for this machine but am quite hesitant because of the know screen issue + lack of support from the brand about it. Seller says there is "just" an issue with the screen.
Fair review Muse. We haven't had your issues with levelling, but we've helped a few customers who have. Despite your frustrations, this is our go to machine for customer prints and we've printed some amazing things. You can buy all the Raise3D printers at iMakr and we deliver across the globe. Won't spam you with a link but we're easy to find.
Have you had issues with the touch screen? I see quite a few users have suffered failing screens. Some of them use a plugged mouse, others diy replacement screens (stock screens are hard to find and quotes run at 500 USD). I can have a great deal for this machine but am quite hesitant because of the know screen issue + lack of support from the brand about it. Seller says there is "just" an issue with the screen.
Windows *always* claims there are errors on a USB device that's just been freshly inserted. The only exception is *sometimes* if you last used it on Windows, and eject it before removing it from the plug. It usually doesn't actually mean anything, most flash-memory devices are able to detect power loss and quickly stow any unresolved data before things go dark. The one exception is if you're *writing* files to a flash memory device on a Mac or Linux device, where the final file write is usually deferred. Removing these devices without ejecting won't necessarily result in damage to the files or device, so much as the files won't have been written yet in the first place. All this is to say: Windows is being paranoid, there's a 99% chance your USB key is perfectly fine.
One suggestion. To really test the function and use of a machine, especially of this caliber, and cost, it would be great to see prints that are mechanically complex something like a part you would use in a real application like in the automotive, medical, communications, aircraft industry, or at the least something that one can use inside a home, a better doorknob, tool holders for the garage, shop, lamps, or something like a custom baseboard trim, as I had to do for my home, because no one makes one, instead of props, toys or figures that are or no use other than for pure amusement and maybe for size comparisons. As another example, I have an anycubic I3 Mega that I have done a lot of mechanical and pretty darn precise parts to fully test the function and use of the machine to the max. It is a great machine for the price, and so far it has not let me down. Complex and precise mechanical devices, with gears, cams, hinges, inlays, undercuts, and geometries beyond your basic geometric shapes. My RC Helicopter, Autogyro Ultralight, Microlight and LandYacht Kits have a lot of mechanical parts that I have done, originally by CNC machining, but I have revamped many of them and redesigned new ones for 3D printing. Parts for these types of products need higher tolerance than the more organic props and toys typically shown by everyone who does 3D Printer reviews, that must be held for the parts to work structurally, mechanically and aerodynamically and if a 3D printer can pull these off with precision, and repeatability it is a testament of its capability IMO. Show a mini V8 engines block or a tranmission system, something along those lines. After all for $3K, I would want a machine to do more than just print toys and it would do the product more justice to show parts that are used in real and more serious industries. OK it is obvious the machine is large enough and by the looks of the lead screws, and structure it does show to be rigid, so let's see some more serious 3D printed parts. If I was the manufacturer of that machine I would have provided you with a part design STL file to show the full capability of the machine. $3K sounds like a lot of dough for something that looks like it will do basically the same as an CR10 or I3, ok so it has larger volume and more rigidity, but this is not enough for me, show me the real power of the machine, a part your 3D print review competitors will be salivating they had shown with their reviews. Otherwise, I like your reviews.
I think using basic setup that monitors the situation every 1 minute and pauses the print if something goes wrong could prevent things like that from happening. Basic comparator setup would work because if the model is detached from build surface or if no material is being extruded, it could catch that before it's too late.
Great review! I decided to become a US reseller for Raise3D after experiencing the quality for myself. It's a great machine and I concur on the bed leveling. Hopefully a new version makes that change but would like to see your changes! If anyone has any additional questions, happy to answer.
There's a handy trick to keep the screws from backing off if you are willing to wait, and already know how it should be honed and leveled; if you mark the correct adjustments of screws (where the screw meets the material), then you can apply some thread locking compound (often genericized as Loctite, for the recognizable brand) and wait for it to cure before printing. The marker lets you see where to stop, which means it'll be right every time. If the screws adjust something else and you have no means of marking the screws with some felt-tip marker, mark the components being adjusted so you can then make adjustments as necessary and then remove the screws or fill with thread locker any way you can find how to make the screw remain firm against vibrations.
The other thing you'd want in a bed leveling system for such a huge machine with 100 hour prints is "leveling fade" where the bed leveling Z adjustment tapers off gradually over the first cm of the print height, and after that the machine stops moving the Z axis throughout the print, saving energy and reducing heat. I added this feature to Marlin's bed leveling a few months ago, and other firmware may also have this option.
$ per sq inch it is not that expensive. For the dual extruder model is almost exactly $1 per sq inch. In comparison, the Tronxy is 5.9" square or 205 sq inch and is $180 which is $0.89 per sq inch. It's more down to what you need as a printer.
I have a N2, the touch screen is crap, but plug in the mouse and you are good to go. Everything about this machine is just so awesome. When I bought it, i was a newbie, no idea of retraction, bed levelling, or other settings. I clicked print without those knowledge and 3 hours later, my 3D benchy came out beautifully :) The real time progress and time estimate is only available if you slice using idea maker. Bed levelling sucks, they kinda warp.
Have you had issues with the touch screen? I see quite a few users have suffered failing screens. Some of them use a plugged mouse, others diy replacement screens (stock screens are hard to find and quotes run at 500 USD). I can have a great deal for this machine but am quite hesitant because of the know screen issue + lack of support from the brand about it. Seller says there is "just" an issue with the screen.
@@HyperSculptor yep the original N2 had a issues with dead touch screens due to some grounding issue. but i believe they fixed that in their latest models
Regarding usb error fix, did you try formatting natively on the tablet? Usually tablets, phones and others small devices corrupt usb memory's. It helps making the usb stick native to its device. It's advisable. Even for my cameras i format it on camera...
Their bed leveling system is what's held me back from buying one. A few friends have these printers and they agree, the leveling is absolutely maddening.
I have one now for the last 9 months. True about the bed leveling and micro switch (you do get used to them). but I use it printing colorfab XT-cf20 with 0.4 nozzle with 80micron layer height Longest print so far 136hrs the level of detail is great (Prototypes). Once Dialed in it is a great setup.
Have you had issues with the touch screen? I see quite a few users have suffered failing screens. Some of them use a plugged mouse, others diy replacement screens (stock screens are hard to find and quotes run at 500 USD). I can have a great deal for this machine but am quite hesitant because of the know screen issue + lack of support from the brand about it. Seller says there is "just" an issue with the screen.
Wouldn't a double head be useful as a backup filament source? If you can calculate about far one roll will last, pre-program it to print the rest in the other "colour"? (which would probably be just a duplicate roll) Seems like that would be useful on such a large printer. Obviously the issue where the second printer head rubs into the print would still be there.
The height adjusting screw does not move due to vibration, as it has a preload spring to prevent that. Yes, it's trial and error to set it in the first place, but once set it almost never ever needs to be touched again. My N2 has been running 12-24 hour prints virtually non-stop for months now, and I haven't touched that screw in ages. Regarding adhesion and your cat's support detachment, you have to know when a raft is a good idea. Yes, it takes time to print a raft, but that hour or so is pretty negligible on big prints, where as you point out, failure is extremely frustrating. I go raftless only when there's a big solid bottom layer for adhesion at all important parts of a print. IdeaMaker support by itself without a raft is hit or miss, as you found. Just as importantly, a raft makes bed flatness and level much less critical. It may be less macho than going raftless, but if what's important to you is a successful print, I recommend just embracing the raft. I got rid of the Buildtak ages ago and switched to a PEI sheet adhered to the glass, it works perfectly. 60ºC for PLA, 80ºC for PETG. Failures are very rare. I fully agree re the second extruder, mine was removed long ago. I thought I'd be using it for removable support material (PolySupport), but IdeaMaker's support is so easy to remove that it's not necessary.
Have you had issues with the touch screen? I see quite a few users have suffered failing screens. Some of them use a plugged mouse, others diy replacement screens (stock screens are hard to find and quotes run at 500 USD). I can have a great deal for this machine but am quite hesitant because of the know screen issue + lack of support from the brand about it. Seller says there is "just" an issue with the screen.
Thanks for the review. I'm a Magician and use my wanhao i3 for making a few gadgets and small props. However I'm thinking of branching off to stage work and you are so right. This machine will be amazing for props and set dressing!
Hy, i've been useing this printer for a year only for 12+ hour jobs it dose superb work, yes the bed is hard to adjust but when done right is the best! Only isshue wit it is fillament cloging but i can not blame the printer. Right now i have a power surge protector on it and thinking of geting a UPS because of small, 5-10 min, blackouts. Longest time printing was around 1 week, not one print but 24-ish hour prints for a weeh long, the endurance is grate on this baby! The dual extruder is good but also the nozzel need to be level... After a 3-4 moth of useing it, the filament was sticking so good to the buidtak that i broke the glass trying to remove it, replace the glass and buidtak and worg grate again. Another good thing is that the extruded amount of material, feed rate, temperatures and fan speeds can be modified even when printing without stopping the machine. Best regards!
Have you had issues with the touch screen? I see quite a few users have suffered failing screens. Some of them use a plugged mouse, others diy replacement screens (stock screens are hard to find and quotes run at 500 USD). I can have a great deal for this machine but am quite hesitant because of the know screen issue + lack of support from the brand about it. Seller says there is "just" an issue with the screen.
we have one of these printers, and its good to see you have pointed out the quirks with it, ive had a few builds fail near the end which has not been good and it is down to the level of the bed, i will try using a larger nozzle though as it looks like it works well. If you do the mods it would be good to see a video and explanation of them as we may do the same
They should add the filament outage sensor and make it so that you can load both extruders eith the same material and when it has used all of 1 reel it auto.atically changes to the next. That seems like the most sensible reason for dual extruders on a machine of this size and also reduces the risk of having to start again just a couple of hours from the end of a 100+ hour print due to filament running out.
You can get a Bigger Machine for 700$ and has a workspace of 500x500x500 , the name is Cr10s5. Probably for Prop making you don`t need the precision of a 3500$ machine, because you always finish up your products with spraying fillers on it and sanding them afterwards. You would use a machine like i mentioned professionally just for bigger prints ??? (not just prop making) Great Channel btw, thanks for your work Angus!!
I recognize the spool you're holding in the video. I have same color+spool and I had the same strange/cool/interesting result while printing. It gets from matte to glossy and then in certain small parts of the same print it gets metallic.
Very cool, i have the same machine and ran into the same problem, the nozzle height is a little bit tricky. Bed levelling i will check some large stuff failed. Maybe it is the bed levelling then, great tip. I fully agree it should get these upgrades, or even better they provide a aftermarket kit to get the autobed and nozzle height automatic. I wonder if you could could make that yourself on this machine.. now that would make the ultimate printer. The volume, the large touchscren, the build quility and then this upgrade on it. I am not sure if it can be done, what do you think? I mean i see a lot of screws for levelling the bed no idea how that would work out if you want to automate it..
Loved the review, although I gotta point out that even if you don't really care for dual extruder or a second colour, it would of been nice if you still tested and print atleast 1 object in 2 colours making use of the 2 extruders? You are reviewing the machine itself and its capabilities. Other than that, love the channel and you're vids!
When will we get some image recognition based 3d printers? If not for the printing, for detecting when a print is failed and stopping the printer . What is the current consumption of this printer ?
Very interesting printer! The real downside is the lack of auto bed-leveling. My dual-head printer with BL-touch and a heated bed have approximately 1,5x larger printing volume (400x400x470) in one-head mode, but don't have an enclosure.
IMO, a simple 3-thumbscrew bed leveling is perfect. You set it once every month or so and it works more consistently than software compensation techniques.
Couldn't you use the dual extruders loaded with the same filament on both to do bigger prints and not worry about running out half way through? Like start printing with one then switch to the other.
If you want to print something with this that takes more than 1 spool of filament, you could have 2 spools loaded of the same colour and just switch to the other nozzle.
Seems like for the cost vs size, the creality CR-10S4 is 1/3 the cost and pretty much the same performance. You could build a nice enclosure with the $2k you saved.
i wonder what it takes to accelerate fdm printing while keeping details if you reached the mechanical limits. maybe a variable size nozzle or something.
Have you thought about raising the 2nd nozzle one step level (it sounds like you took it out to avoid it hitting your 3D prints) and using it to deposit normal salt instead of support structures? If the salt can just fall down, then it seems to me like it'd make an OK support structure you can dissolve away and reuse... You'd need to stop the support structure one level early, but it doesn't seem like it'd be that problematic... Disclaimer: I don't have a 3D printer, but I would try this if I did since my 3D prints will probably be mostly dome shaped...
Apparently Imaker has a support material they use in the 2nd nozzle... I wonder how it'd compare to just regular Morton salt (probably is a lot less of a hassle to work with, but a lot more expensive) ruclips.net/video/DpDI5CWiIqk/видео.html
What about having the second extruder ready with another roll of filament if your print goes beyond 1kg ( or what ever you have on the roll) to avoid running out?
lasersbee I bough a dual one and I find them redundant, they aren't as reliable yet. I will only use them when I need two material prints for engineering project
Hi , after seeing all your videos on riase 3D n plus , I just went and buy one . I am designing some air ducts so need bigger bed . Now after 2 weeks really got disappointed by this printer . This printer is a biggest failure in ABS . I have almost tried around 1 kg material on this printer and still now didn't got a results. Now you said that you got good support raise 3d , but I am not able to get that as well in this . Every day I get a mail from a guys to try something new . If you find out a way to print a big part in ABS please share so that I can also do the same before I return this
Hello Maker Muse, since you have the Raise3D now can you figure out the best setting to use for flexible filaments, like ninjaflex, semiflex. Thanks in advance
No mention about the poor part cooling? The dual nozzle seems to cause ringing on my Raise3D if I print much over 50mm/s. One thing I must say is I like how ideamaker hides retraction and seams over Simplify3D.
I was warned about the part cooling issue before I got the machine and even ordered some fans, but honestly at the speeds i've been printing I haven't noticed much issues with droop or cooling. Probably about the same, 50mm/s or so. With the 0.6mm nozzle faster could end badly.
Cool review! I don't have experience with this printer, but I do have experience with the Raise3d Pro3. All I can say is, I'm NOT a fan. I will be posting an in depth review of this printer and why I don't care for it (or Raise3d in general) on my channel in the next few weeks!
That machine have a backup battery. It keeps printing and when the battery is gonna run out. it saves the progress so it can be resumed when the electricity back.
I'm looking for a printer like this, with a vertical Z for architectural prints, the bed size is perfect, but I don't need this tall. I had a CR-10 S4 that had too much mass in the bed and cause way too much echo for architectural printing. Couldn't you use the second extruder with the same filament, so it would swtich to it halfway through a big print, or have the software know when it's almost empty and switch it over?
with modifications yes, but doing that would need two sensors for filament, and heating the 2nd nozzle mid print, and i dont know a slicer that has the settings or support for that
When a print breaks free in the middle of a 24h print.... I once managed to pause the printer and saved the day just when the warping was lifting up the print. I Literally glued with superglue the print to the aluminium bed and then used duck tape (I was using a big raft, and the tape worked great keeping the raft in contact the bed) The model was a Parantropus Boisei skull and it survived with only an ugly layer. Also, the raft was not easy to remove :P
please share how you do the mods, have 2 raise3d n2 and bed leveling is beyond frustrating, plus no filament out sensor is like one of those things that really needs to be standard
Hey Muse, can you give me your general impression of XYZprinting's DaVinci Mini w printer? It's a hobby printer, but I was given one as a gift, and it works allright, but I'd love to know your thoughts.
Those flaws are terminal for me. The idea of the machine failing after 90 hours simply because it was too stupid to detect that it was out of filament is criminal, as is the fact that you need to manually level the bed.
Just got one of these at work (should be delivered soon) and only got the single nozzle machine for exactly the reasons you cited. Nice to know about the leveling stuff, thanks for the review! What would you think about ignoring most of the bed screws and just use three around the perimeter?
Have you had issues with the touch screen? I see quite a few users have suffered failing screens. Some of them use a plugged mouse, others diy replacement screens (stock screens are hard to find and quotes run at 500 USD). I can have a great deal for this machine but am quite hesitant because of the know screen issue + lack of support from the brand about it. Seller says there is "just" an issue with the screen.
@@HyperSculptor You make a very good point, there isn’t a lot of support for the touchscreen from the manufacturer. Really your options are: sort it out on your own, or pay them for an entire new touchscreen assembly. That’s the screen, housing, and the control board. They do offer a pretty decent trade-in program on a old screen that reduces the cost, but to your point… no, you cannot just replace the touch panel. A mouse will work, and I have experienced panels going dead. Personally, I’d like to do some more research into purchasing a direct replacement for the touch panel.
@@lockbotCRM TY. I saw a thread on the official forum I think, about direct replacement. From what you are saying, if the control board is toast too, it might be problematic. Like I said, for the same money I can get a prusa.which makes the decision tricky.
Could anyone point out the filament he used for the deathclaw at 7:27? I heard him say but couldn't quite make out of what he said, the shading that changes the shade of the purple looks amazing.. really want that filament
I have this vision of your house. Deathclaw gate posts in the yard Deathclaw garden ornaments. Tiny Garden gnomes hunting tiny deathclaws through lady muses flower garden. The deathclaw door knocker. and the death claw gravy boat for feast days. My favorite would be the giant deathclaw themed canopy bed and linnen set. ;)
I came to post that to some people, the manual bed leveling would be a feature, and it also cuts down on price...then I heard this is $3000+, and well, I think they just got cheap unless they truly believe manual is better and that's what people want.
Nice Video mate, you seen the Formlabs Fuse 1 Angus ? An SLS machine that is around $10,000 USD thats bonkers, 5-10 years from now we may have desktop SLS machines.
Yep I have a sample part printed off it to show off soon, it's pretty darn cool. Still a few technical limitations before we could have true desktop powder systems though!
Looks good Angus - I am a noob to 3D printing and I must ask how important is auto bed levelling? Would I need to manually level it every print? I love the size - is there a big printer around that has self levelling and nozzle setup?
No need to manually level for every print. the Raise manual bed leveling system is a "one and done" setup, where after you have the bed leveled precisely, it's not going to move. (barring any disaster like hitting it hard)
is there anyway can you give any advice on Support setting on idea maker ? some how my supports are not coming off easy like everyone talks about and seems like it is using more supports materials than my Makerbot z18.
![Lil Uzi Vert - Chill Bae [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/D7F42F_JM3U/mqdefault.jpg)
Hello Maker Muse, I use a Raise 3D N2 + professionally. I have overcome some of the issues you described in your video, I would suggest you print with a Raft. The nozzle height off of the bed needs to be 0.25mm. The Raise includes a feeler gauge of 0.2mm to help set the height. To reduce the possibility of the nozzles colliding with the print, set the Zhop to a distance slightly higher than the layer height. Also when using a larger nozzle, the raft offset height needs to be adjusted. I print with a 0.8mm nozzle, usually with a 0.6mm layer height and my offset is 0.45mm. The same goes for the supports. You will need to experiment a little to get the settings right. The Raise3D N2 Plus is a sweet machine. I have printed some seriously huge prints for work as well as 0.1mm layer height items. Both have been exceptional.
Cheers
Have you had issues with the touch screen? I see quite a few users have suffered failing screens. Some of them use a plugged mouse, others diy replacement screens (stock screens are hard to find and quotes run at 500 USD). I can have a great deal for this machine but am quite hesitant because of the know screen issue + lack of support from the brand about it. Seller says there is "just" an issue with the screen.
I got this printer for work and it's key feature is how easy it is to get people printing on it. Default print settings are spot on, and it can be trusted to run overnight when required. Most people that have used it hadn't 3D printed before and I haven't had to hand hold through raft/brim/support placement, they just click the quality setting they want and support on/off and it's printing.
We've printed the max Z height and it turned out great, but I'm not sure how often we'll need to do that, but it's good to have the option. I'm tempted to put a 0.6 or 1mm nozzle in the second position, but I don't think I'll ever get it level again, I've had that issue on a DIY printer I made.
I've had one of these printers for about a year now. I replaced one of the nozzles with a .8mm and keep the other one at .4mm. That way I don't need to change the nozzle, just the settings in the slicer when I'm wanting to print something fast versus something detailed.
You kinda brushed off the detail this printer can handle, but I've found it does very small things very well. Better than any other printer I've ever had. And while sometimes it seams silly to have a massive printer print a part that's only 20mm long, it's nice that it can do both.
I don't have a 3d printer and I don't think I intend to get one any time soon, but I'm still subscribed with notifications turned on because I love your videos! It's really interesting to hear you talk about these things, and I like how you always present your thoughts in a well-reasoned, easy-to-understand manner.
If ONLY it has a different bed leveling system...
It needs both a touch probe and an inductive probe.
Capacitive touch sensors can be used to detect missed steps, in addition to levelling the bed.
They can be overly sensitive to stray stimulation though, so you need the inductive sensor to act as a baseline.
I have a Raise 3D N2 I bought on their Kickstarter. Love it. One thing you didn't mention was their wireless printing. One of the best features. No need to carry a thumb drive. You can also monitor the printer and send new jobs while it's printing.
Have you had issues with the touch screen? I see quite a few users have suffered failing screens. Some of them use a plugged mouse, others diy replacement screens (stock screens are hard to find and quotes run at 500 USD). I can have a great deal for this machine but am quite hesitant because of the know screen issue + lack of support from the brand about it. Seller says there is "just" an issue with the screen.
Fair review Muse. We haven't had your issues with levelling, but we've helped a few customers who have. Despite your frustrations, this is our go to machine for customer prints and we've printed some amazing things. You can buy all the Raise3D printers at iMakr and we deliver across the globe. Won't spam you with a link but we're easy to find.
why can't you just make a kit with a bed leveling sensor and a G-code for a sensor mount, and then make a firmware update to include the sensor?
Have you had issues with the touch screen? I see quite a few users have suffered failing screens. Some of them use a plugged mouse, others diy replacement screens (stock screens are hard to find and quotes run at 500 USD). I can have a great deal for this machine but am quite hesitant because of the know screen issue + lack of support from the brand about it. Seller says there is "just" an issue with the screen.
Windows *always* claims there are errors on a USB device that's just been freshly inserted. The only exception is *sometimes* if you last used it on Windows, and eject it before removing it from the plug. It usually doesn't actually mean anything, most flash-memory devices are able to detect power loss and quickly stow any unresolved data before things go dark.
The one exception is if you're *writing* files to a flash memory device on a Mac or Linux device, where the final file write is usually deferred. Removing these devices without ejecting won't necessarily result in damage to the files or device, so much as the files won't have been written yet in the first place.
All this is to say: Windows is being paranoid, there's a 99% chance your USB key is perfectly fine.
Since it's dual nozzle, consider using one of them for 0.3 and one for 1.2 mm!
I love that you are so honest in your reviews!!!!
Lets say the filament is running out, does the the printer detect that and pause? I feel like it should.
One suggestion. To really test the function and use of a machine, especially of this caliber, and cost, it would be great to see prints that are mechanically complex something like a part you would use in a real application like in the automotive, medical, communications, aircraft industry, or at the least something that one can use inside a home, a better doorknob, tool holders for the garage, shop, lamps, or something like a custom baseboard trim, as I had to do for my home, because no one makes one, instead of props, toys or figures that are or no use other than for pure amusement and maybe for size comparisons.
As another example, I have an anycubic I3 Mega that I have done a lot of mechanical and pretty darn precise parts to fully test the function and use of the machine to the max. It is a great machine for the price, and so far it has not let me down. Complex and precise mechanical devices, with gears, cams, hinges, inlays, undercuts, and geometries beyond your basic geometric shapes. My RC Helicopter, Autogyro Ultralight, Microlight and LandYacht Kits have a lot of mechanical parts that I have done, originally by CNC machining, but I have revamped many of them and redesigned new ones for 3D printing. Parts for these types of products need higher tolerance than the more organic props and toys typically shown by everyone who does 3D Printer reviews, that must be held for the parts to work structurally, mechanically and aerodynamically and if a 3D printer can pull these off with precision, and repeatability it is a testament of its capability IMO.
Show a mini V8 engines block or a tranmission system, something along those lines. After all for $3K, I would want a machine to do more than just print toys and it would do the product more justice to show parts that are used in real and more serious industries. OK it is obvious the machine is large enough and by the looks of the lead screws, and structure it does show to be rigid, so let's see some more serious 3D printed parts.
If I was the manufacturer of that machine I would have provided you with a part design STL file to show the full capability of the machine. $3K sounds like a lot of dough for something that looks like it will do basically the same as an CR10 or I3, ok so it has larger volume and more rigidity, but this is not enough for me, show me the real power of the machine, a part your 3D print review competitors will be salivating they had shown with their reviews. Otherwise, I like your reviews.
I think using basic setup that monitors the situation every 1 minute and pauses the print if something goes wrong could prevent things like that from happening.
Basic comparator setup would work because if the model is detached from build surface or if no material is being extruded, it could catch that before it's too late.
Great review! I decided to become a US reseller for Raise3D after experiencing the quality for myself. It's a great machine and I concur on the bed leveling. Hopefully a new version makes that change but would like to see your changes! If anyone has any additional questions, happy to answer.
Man, I am in LOVE with that purple Death Claw head!!!!! ARRGH It's so awesomely beautiful!!!!
There's a handy trick to keep the screws from backing off if you are willing to wait, and already know how it should be honed and leveled; if you mark the correct adjustments of screws (where the screw meets the material), then you can apply some thread locking compound (often genericized as Loctite, for the recognizable brand) and wait for it to cure before printing. The marker lets you see where to stop, which means it'll be right every time.
If the screws adjust something else and you have no means of marking the screws with some felt-tip marker, mark the components being adjusted so you can then make adjustments as necessary and then remove the screws or fill with thread locker any way you can find how to make the screw remain firm against vibrations.
The other thing you'd want in a bed leveling system for such a huge machine with 100 hour prints is "leveling fade" where the bed leveling Z adjustment tapers off gradually over the first cm of the print height, and after that the machine stops moving the Z axis throughout the print, saving energy and reducing heat. I added this feature to Marlin's bed leveling a few months ago, and other firmware may also have this option.
that would be the COOLEST printer to have... if only it wasn't $3,000
ikr i would love to have something that builds that big, im thinking of making my own giant one.
AUD$6500 ??? "Tell him he's dreaming...."
build your own with nema-23 steppers and cnc components :P would be cheaper then 3.000 and be a seriously badass machine :D
$ per sq inch it is not that expensive. For the dual extruder model is almost exactly $1 per sq inch. In comparison, the Tronxy is 5.9" square or 205 sq inch and is $180 which is $0.89 per sq inch. It's more down to what you need as a printer.
Not sure why you need nema-23 motors for a machine like this
I have a N2, the touch screen is crap, but plug in the mouse and you are good to go. Everything about this machine is just so awesome. When I bought it, i was a newbie, no idea of retraction, bed levelling, or other settings.
I clicked print without those knowledge and 3 hours later, my 3D benchy came out beautifully :)
The real time progress and time estimate is only available if you slice using idea maker. Bed levelling sucks, they kinda warp.
Have you had issues with the touch screen? I see quite a few users have suffered failing screens. Some of them use a plugged mouse, others diy replacement screens (stock screens are hard to find and quotes run at 500 USD). I can have a great deal for this machine but am quite hesitant because of the know screen issue + lack of support from the brand about it. Seller says there is "just" an issue with the screen.
@@HyperSculptor yep the original N2 had a issues with dead touch screens due to some grounding issue. but i believe they fixed that in their latest models
@@kimchikoalaa714 Good to know. The unit I can get is an original N2 model. Might be worth the hassle to solve the screen issue.
Regarding usb error fix, did you try formatting natively on the tablet? Usually tablets, phones and others small devices corrupt usb memory's. It helps making the usb stick native to its device. It's advisable. Even for my cameras i format it on camera...
Their bed leveling system is what's held me back from buying one. A few friends have these printers and they agree, the leveling is absolutely maddening.
I have one now for the last 9 months. True about the bed leveling and micro switch (you do get used to them). but I use it printing colorfab XT-cf20 with 0.4 nozzle with 80micron layer height Longest print so far 136hrs the level of detail is great (Prototypes). Once Dialed in it is a great setup.
Have you had issues with the touch screen? I see quite a few users have suffered failing screens. Some of them use a plugged mouse, others diy replacement screens (stock screens are hard to find and quotes run at 500 USD). I can have a great deal for this machine but am quite hesitant because of the know screen issue + lack of support from the brand about it. Seller says there is "just" an issue with the screen.
Can't wait to see more of these large format printers come down in price and increase in reliability. They can really build large functional parts.
Wouldn't a double head be useful as a backup filament source? If you can calculate about far one roll will last, pre-program it to print the rest in the other "colour"? (which would probably be just a duplicate roll)
Seems like that would be useful on such a large printer.
Obviously the issue where the second printer head rubs into the print would still be there.
The height adjusting screw does not move due to vibration, as it has a preload spring to prevent that. Yes, it's trial and error to set it in the first place, but once set it almost never ever needs to be touched again. My N2 has been running 12-24 hour prints virtually non-stop for months now, and I haven't touched that screw in ages. Regarding adhesion and your cat's support detachment, you have to know when a raft is a good idea. Yes, it takes time to print a raft, but that hour or so is pretty negligible on big prints, where as you point out, failure is extremely frustrating. I go raftless only when there's a big solid bottom layer for adhesion at all important parts of a print. IdeaMaker support by itself without a raft is hit or miss, as you found. Just as importantly, a raft makes bed flatness and level much less critical. It may be less macho than going raftless, but if what's important to you is a successful print, I recommend just embracing the raft. I got rid of the Buildtak ages ago and switched to a PEI sheet adhered to the glass, it works perfectly. 60ºC for PLA, 80ºC for PETG. Failures are very rare. I fully agree re the second extruder, mine was removed long ago. I thought I'd be using it for removable support material (PolySupport), but IdeaMaker's support is so easy to remove that it's not necessary.
Have you had issues with the touch screen? I see quite a few users have suffered failing screens. Some of them use a plugged mouse, others diy replacement screens (stock screens are hard to find and quotes run at 500 USD). I can have a great deal for this machine but am quite hesitant because of the know screen issue + lack of support from the brand about it. Seller says there is "just" an issue with the screen.
@@HyperSculptor No, I've never had an issue with the touch screen. Printer still going strong now after nearly 7 years.
@@juliatruchsess1019 Good to know, TY. I can get one for 1,000 euro, which makes it tempting if the screen repair doesn't turn into a nightmare.
Thanks for the review. I'm a Magician and use my wanhao i3 for making a few gadgets and small props. However I'm thinking of branching off to stage work and you are so right. This machine will be amazing for props and set dressing!
Hy, i've been useing this printer for a year only for 12+ hour jobs it dose superb work, yes the bed is hard to adjust but when done right is the best! Only isshue wit it is fillament cloging but i can not blame the printer. Right now i have a power surge protector on it and thinking of geting a UPS because of small, 5-10 min, blackouts. Longest time printing was around 1 week, not one print but 24-ish hour prints for a weeh long, the endurance is grate on this baby! The dual extruder is good but also the nozzel need to be level...
After a 3-4 moth of useing it, the filament was sticking so good to the buidtak that i broke the glass trying to remove it, replace the glass and buidtak and worg grate again.
Another good thing is that the extruded amount of material, feed rate, temperatures and fan speeds can be modified even when printing without stopping the machine.
Best regards!
Have you had issues with the touch screen? I see quite a few users have suffered failing screens. Some of them use a plugged mouse, others diy replacement screens (stock screens are hard to find and quotes run at 500 USD). I can have a great deal for this machine but am quite hesitant because of the know screen issue + lack of support from the brand about it. Seller says there is "just" an issue with the screen.
we have one of these printers, and its good to see you have pointed out the quirks with it, ive had a few builds fail near the end which has not been good and it is down to the level of the bed, i will try using a larger nozzle though as it looks like it works well.
If you do the mods it would be good to see a video and explanation of them as we may do the same
They should add the filament outage sensor and make it so that you can load both extruders eith the same material and when it has used all of 1 reel it auto.atically changes to the next. That seems like the most sensible reason for dual extruders on a machine of this size and also reduces the risk of having to start again just a couple of hours from the end of a 100+ hour print due to filament running out.
could use the 2nd extruder in case the 1st roll of filament runs out....
just calculate when the 1st 1 is about to be empty then go to the 2nd :)
The bed doesn't move in the XY, nor does it move fast in the Z; it has gravity as a sort of pre-tensioning, so are ballscrews really necessary?
You can get a Bigger Machine for 700$ and has a workspace of 500x500x500 , the name is Cr10s5. Probably for Prop making you don`t need the precision of a 3500$ machine, because you always finish up your products with spraying fillers on it and sanding them afterwards. You would use a machine like i mentioned professionally just for bigger prints ??? (not just prop making) Great Channel btw, thanks for your work Angus!!
Looks good and for such a machine the price is very honest.
I recognize the spool you're holding in the video. I have same color+spool and I had the same strange/cool/interesting result while printing. It gets from matte to glossy and then in certain small parts of the same print it gets metallic.
Very cool, i have the same machine and ran into the same problem, the nozzle height is a little bit tricky. Bed levelling i will check some large stuff failed. Maybe it is the bed levelling then, great tip. I fully agree it should get these upgrades, or even better they provide a aftermarket kit to get the autobed and nozzle height automatic. I wonder if you could could make that yourself on this machine.. now that would make the ultimate printer. The volume, the large touchscren, the build quility and then this upgrade on it. I am not sure if it can be done, what do you think? I mean i see a lot of screws for levelling the bed no idea how that would work out if you want to automate it..
I have an N2 and it's huge. Can't imagine how immense the N2+ is, 2x taller than mine!
Loved the review, although I gotta point out that even if you don't really care for dual extruder or a second colour, it would of been nice if you still tested and print atleast 1 object in 2 colours making use of the 2 extruders? You are reviewing the machine itself and its capabilities. Other than that, love the channel and you're vids!
When will we get some image recognition based 3d printers? If not for the printing, for detecting when a print is failed and stopping the printer . What is the current consumption of this printer ?
Would it be smart to invest in a ups to reduce the risk of power loss?
Would you recommend the Raise3d Pro or an Ultimaker 2+/3?
Very interesting printer! The real downside is the lack of auto bed-leveling.
My dual-head printer with BL-touch and a heated bed have approximately 1,5x larger printing volume (400x400x470) in one-head mode, but don't have an enclosure.
IMO, a simple 3-thumbscrew bed leveling is perfect. You set it once every month or so and it works more consistently than software compensation techniques.
Couldn't you use the dual extruders loaded with the same filament on both to do bigger prints and not worry about running out half way through? Like start printing with one then switch to the other.
My printer is bigger. (by 1cm^3) Get rekt Angus.
1cm3 !? Oh no, the shame ;.;
Weeellll... Back to eBay I go for some longer rails! (I'm designing a printer right now) 😎
Is it 0.5mm higher?^^
I still have a 470 x 430 x 690 printer still sitting unbuilt in its box. I should get around to selling it. It's one of these: www.cultivate3d.com
Where are you at in the design now?
If you want to print something with this that takes more than 1 spool of filament, you could have 2 spools loaded of the same colour and just switch to the other nozzle.
The one problem I had with IdeaMaker is that it wasn't properly putting minimum layer time into the gcode, at least for my I3 clone.
Why don't you adjust it with a bubble level? The printer seems big enough to get one in there.
Seems like for the cost vs size, the creality CR-10S4 is 1/3 the cost and pretty much the same performance. You could build a nice enclosure with the $2k you saved.
i wonder what it takes to accelerate fdm printing while keeping details if you reached the mechanical limits. maybe a variable size nozzle or something.
Maker's Muse what about printing other materials, such as abs, nylon and pc, on this machine?
Btw windows says there's a problem with your usb disk every time you plug it in on android devices aswell even though there's nothing wrong with it.
How do you survive VOC fumes - be very careful. Be nice to get a steer on the best practice for this - extractors, filters etc.
Have you thought about raising the 2nd nozzle one step level (it sounds like you took it out to avoid it hitting your 3D prints) and using it to deposit normal salt instead of support structures? If the salt can just fall down, then it seems to me like it'd make an OK support structure you can dissolve away and reuse... You'd need to stop the support structure one level early, but it doesn't seem like it'd be that problematic...
Disclaimer: I don't have a 3D printer, but I would try this if I did since my 3D prints will probably be mostly dome shaped...
Apparently Imaker has a support material they use in the 2nd nozzle... I wonder how it'd compare to just regular Morton salt (probably is a lot less of a hassle to work with, but a lot more expensive) ruclips.net/video/DpDI5CWiIqk/видео.html
I have an E3D BigBox which also has dual Z screws. Shame it never went into full production ...
What about having the second extruder ready with another roll of filament if your print goes beyond 1kg ( or what ever you have on the roll) to avoid running out?
7:07 I had constant print collisions on my Davinci 2.0 until I removed the 2nd Nozzle.
Don't do 2 color prints either.
lasersbee I bough a dual one and I find them redundant, they aren't as reliable yet. I will only use them when I need two material prints for engineering project
I removed the 2nd nozzle from my Leapfrog Creatr Dual for the same reason. Now I have spare parts :)
Hi , after seeing all your videos on riase 3D n plus , I just went and buy one . I am designing some air ducts so need bigger bed . Now after 2 weeks really got disappointed by this printer . This printer is a biggest failure in ABS . I have almost tried around 1 kg material on this printer and still now didn't got a results. Now you said that you got good support raise 3d , but I am not able to get that as well in this . Every day I get a mail from a guys to try something new . If you find out a way to print a big part in ABS please share so that I can also do the same before I return this
Swap the format type on the stick from fat32 to ntfs or ntfs to fat32 cant remember which is correct to sort your problem with the usb pen
Hello Maker Muse, since you have the Raise3D now can you figure out the best setting to use for flexible filaments, like ninjaflex, semiflex. Thanks in advance
Please visit the forums on the Raise 3D website. There is extensive discussion about settings in relation to filaments.
I get knock overs on my cr10s5. Lift nozzle during retracting fixed it. Zhop I believe?
No mention about the poor part cooling? The dual nozzle seems to cause ringing on my Raise3D if I print much over 50mm/s. One thing I must say is I like how ideamaker hides retraction and seams over Simplify3D.
I was warned about the part cooling issue before I got the machine and even ordered some fans, but honestly at the speeds i've been printing I haven't noticed much issues with droop or cooling. Probably about the same, 50mm/s or so. With the 0.6mm nozzle faster could end badly.
Cool review! I don't have experience with this printer, but I do have experience with the Raise3d Pro3. All I can say is, I'm NOT a fan. I will be posting an in depth review of this printer and why I don't care for it (or Raise3d in general) on my channel in the next few weeks!
Someone I know had a electricity cut at a 99 hours print.
That machine have a backup battery. It keeps printing and when the battery is gonna run out. it saves the progress so it can be resumed when the electricity back.
It's probably worth getting a UPS if your prints are going to take that long.
If that happens you can always print the last missing part of the print and glue it on
A binding nut might be a good way to keep the Z adjust screw from shaking loose.
I'm looking for a printer like this, with a vertical Z for architectural prints, the bed size is perfect, but I don't need this tall. I had a CR-10 S4 that had too much mass in the bed and cause way too much echo for architectural printing.
Couldn't you use the second extruder with the same filament, so it would swtich to it halfway through a big print, or have the software know when it's almost empty and switch it over?
with modifications yes, but doing that would need two sensors for filament, and heating the 2nd nozzle mid print, and i dont know a slicer that has the settings or support for that
The N2+ is 24" tall. but the N2 is 12" tall. I have that one and love it. I recommend it, but the single nozzle version.
wow awesome. I need a lot of luck to print such big ones.
What do you think of the upgrades to the Newer Raise3D printer? Worth the 4k price?
Thanks for your review
Matthews Fabrication its aweful. Horrible UI, slow and stupid slicer
dual nozzle for on-the-fly extruder switching when roll runs out, maybe?
so satisfying how the Z Height is the X height plus Y ;-; im pleased
When a print breaks free in the middle of a 24h print....
I once managed to pause the printer and saved the day just when the warping was lifting up the print. I Literally glued with superglue the print to the aluminium bed and then used duck tape (I was using a big raft, and the tape worked great keeping the raft in contact the bed)
The model was a Parantropus Boisei skull and it survived with only an ugly layer.
Also, the raft was not easy to remove :P
Do you mean "duct tape"?
English is not my main language and I dont know the name of the product, when someone says it in a YT video it sounds like "du... tape"
Stick a jam nut on the bottom of your homing screw to keep it from moving during printing
Dual extruders are best for pva support.
please share how you do the mods, have 2 raise3d n2 and bed leveling is beyond frustrating, plus no filament out sensor is like one of those things that really needs to be standard
The USB is not corrupted, this is the default behavior when mounting a USB in a linux filesystem and then open it in a windows system
Hey Muse, can you give me your general impression of XYZprinting's DaVinci Mini w printer? It's a hobby printer, but I was given one as a gift, and it works allright, but I'd love to know your thoughts.
Those flaws are terminal for me. The idea of the machine failing after 90 hours simply because it was too stupid to detect that it was out of filament is criminal, as is the fact that you need to manually level the bed.
Just got one of these at work (should be delivered soon) and only got the single nozzle machine for exactly the reasons you cited. Nice to know about the leveling stuff, thanks for the review!
What would you think about ignoring most of the bed screws and just use three around the perimeter?
UnTiedMusicStudio
Look at the forum were they have a user solution with 5 points with Springs. It works fantastic
Just ordered one!
I assume you were sent this printer, as when you order these you have a choice of single or dual extruder
I love this machine; it's slow, but man...the print quality is phenomenal.
Have you had issues with the touch screen? I see quite a few users have suffered failing screens. Some of them use a plugged mouse, others diy replacement screens (stock screens are hard to find and quotes run at 500 USD). I can have a great deal for this machine but am quite hesitant because of the know screen issue + lack of support from the brand about it. Seller says there is "just" an issue with the screen.
@@HyperSculptor You make a very good point, there isn’t a lot of support for the touchscreen from the manufacturer. Really your options are: sort it out on your own, or pay them for an entire new touchscreen assembly. That’s the screen, housing, and the control board. They do offer a pretty decent trade-in program on a old screen that reduces the cost, but to your point… no, you cannot just replace the touch panel.
A mouse will work, and I have experienced panels going dead. Personally, I’d like to do some more research into purchasing a direct replacement for the touch panel.
@@lockbotCRM TY. I saw a thread on the official forum I think, about direct replacement. From what you are saying, if the control board is toast too, it might be problematic. Like I said, for the same money I can get a prusa.which makes the decision tricky.
I tried out that slicer and it didn't let me print with an different printer than listed
Absolute unit
Could anyone point out the filament he used for the deathclaw at 7:27? I heard him say but couldn't quite make out of what he said, the shading that changes the shade of the purple looks amazing.. really want that filament
Our company just bought this printer weeks ago!
How does this compare to the Pro2 Plus?
How does it compare to TEVO little monster?
For my cr10 s5 I have like five brand new roles that I expect to get 7 prints with
Would you be able to do custom prints for clients on this printer?
I have this vision of your house. Deathclaw gate posts in the yard Deathclaw garden ornaments. Tiny Garden gnomes hunting tiny deathclaws through lady muses flower garden. The deathclaw door knocker. and the death claw gravy boat for feast days. My favorite would be the giant deathclaw themed canopy bed and linnen set. ;)
I came to post that to some people, the manual bed leveling would be a feature, and it also cuts down on price...then I heard this is $3000+, and well, I think they just got cheap unless they truly believe manual is better and that's what people want.
Great review, as always you keep it simple but straight forward....happy extruding
Nice Video mate, you seen the Formlabs Fuse 1 Angus ?
An SLS machine that is around $10,000 USD thats bonkers, 5-10 years from now we may have desktop SLS machines.
Yep I have a sample part printed off it to show off soon, it's pretty darn cool. Still a few technical limitations before we could have true desktop powder systems though!
Does this come with multiple nozzles?
Looks good Angus - I am a noob to 3D printing and I must ask how important is auto bed levelling? Would I need to manually level it every print? I love the size - is there a big printer around that has self levelling and nozzle setup?
No need to manually level for every print. the Raise manual bed leveling system is a "one and done" setup, where after you have the bed leveled precisely, it's not going to move. (barring any disaster like hitting it hard)
Great, thankyou for clarifying that. I got the impressioon from some printer makers that self- levelling was really important or had to be done often.
Absolutely! I can answer any and all questions re: Raise 3D printers you may have. I work for them :)
OMG very cool. Way more than I can afford though, well if maybe I sold off all my other toys, then yeah. Love your vids. Keep 'em coming.
is there anyway can you give any advice on Support setting on idea maker ? some how my supports are not coming off easy like everyone talks about and seems like it is using more supports materials than my Makerbot z18.
I have the same USB and after using it on my Makerbot it gave me the same error. Weird
if i think that is big, try the new Creality CR-10 Extra large printer coming in with a build volume of 500mm x 500mm x 500mm
is there a machine for making Failure used filament into reusable filament ?