Vladimir Olegovich Not true, it’s like nylon except It has higher stiffness. Higher stiffness is extremely important for parts that are under stress. The impact strength is reduced but the stiffness makes it incredible for structural parts and allows 3d printing to be used in things which under go high strain and even hard impacts.
Great review :) we use this nozzle since about half a year in the rapid prototyping lab at our university with all sorts of material, also very abrasive ones and so far prints like on day on ;) sure you can get 100 standart nozzles for that money, but in a production enviroment this nozzle is gold ;)
I think that's just it. Getting 100 standard brass nozzles is great for any DIY person, but, in a production environment, something like the Olsson Ruby is perfect!
It seems the 3D printing industry has completely overlooked or ignored basalt fibers, which are much cheaper than carbon fiber and have a higher ultimate tensile strength, 4840 vs 4137 MPa. That is unless they start using the patented "Toray T1100G" variety, which would probably bring the cost of a roll of filament to more than the ruby nozzle. The Toray 1100G is also export restricted. Then again neither nylon nor PLA is going to be able to bond to any of these fibers well enough for those differences to make a difference in the final material strength anyway, so why not go with the less expensive option?? While I'm here .. basalt fiber also handily beats Kevlar, which only comes in at 3757 MPa. Additionally basalt fibers can withstand a working temperature of 1200C and some specialty varieties are good to 1500C.. Kevlar might be good to about a tenth of that as it is basically an improved plastic/nylon.
Nice. As someone else mentioned below, another benefit of the Olsson Ruby nozzle is that since it is primarily brass, it won't need the additional heat that a hardened steel nozzle will require.
Just got this nozzle. Hands down the best nozzle I have ever used! NylonG and NylonX comes out amazing! Already through a roll of NylonG and the prints are still prefect!
@Michel van der Meij you be silly not to dry filament, I am sure this youtube user or cnc kitchen has a video showing what it like when not dry as bubbles/boils if water in it and often put in a drying or storage box with pipe from there to printer to keep nice
3D printing has its good times and its awfully frustrating times, especially jobs that take overnight, come to find out the entire job is trashed when you check it in the morning. And if acquiring the Olsson Ruby mitigates that, then the projects moves forward, it's worth it. I'll be picking these up!
So I bought two of these for my pair of Anycubic I3 Megas. I have to say the difference is striking. I print primarily with PC and Nylon-CF and the initial print quality is amazingly sharp. I purchased from a different vendor than the one promoted here and had the nozzles in 2 days. Brilliant, very happy with these and I'll get more of these as my printer array grows!
Ive been using the ruby for about two months and have printed almost only 3dx carbon nylon with great results and zero signs of wear. However if i print with proto pastas carbon htpla I do have to oil my filament. I didnt have to do this with a e3d hardened nozzle but If thats all I have to do to keep from going through a nozzle every few spools I'm fine with that. I think like Joel said if you print primarily in abrasive filaments its worth the cost. The ruby in combination with a TitanAero running on a Prusa mk2s is a solid combo for anyone. Ive had nothing but good results.
Great review! I would love to see a follow up segment on how this holds up to other abrasives like glow in the dark filaments and glass filed, as well as how it's holding up 6 months from now.
I know of people who have used the Olsson Ruby for 6+ months and 20kg+ of different abrasive filaments without any signs of wear and perfect print quality, so they should be fine.
Now that you have a good exotic filament nozel, Please print a model of Mars out of the iron filiment and rusy it to make it a natral rust red the way Mars is in reality. I'm sure a 3d model can be made or possibly taken from another program and converted into a printable format.
Pook365 if only I had a 3d printer lol, hopefully he sees this and decides to try and print it. I've suggested it in the past but I'm not sure he had the right nozel at the time.
Am I the only one who will mention how adorable the strowlberry is and how CRISP it printed? My first (personally owned) printer will come next week, and I wish even 1/2 of my prints would come out so crisp lol. Maybe I will use this as a personal overhang benchmark xD
Anders has put a lot of time and research into that design. With the hardened steel nozzles, you'll find yourself having to crank up the heat due to the heat loss, versus the Olsson being brass. Nice prints (sorry, Darth!)
Thank you for this very informative video of the Olsson Ruby nozzle. I'm quite new to 3D printing and have recently received my Prusa i3 MK2S 3D printer (your review of it certainly helped me with my decision to purchase it). As of right now, I have only printed with PLA (with complete success); yet I am looking/researching about printing with other materials. So keep up the good work!
My two concerns about the Olsson are: 1) multiple people report that the ruby tip itself can pop out of the nozzle. Its a fairly common issue from what 've seen. At that point the nozzle is useless. I believe Olssen has good warranty coverage but it's a hassle to return and deal with replacements. 2) if the nozzle gets blocked or clogged, it's going to be really tough to clear it out? I go through a new nozzle every few months, and it's generally not because it's worn out it's that the nozzle gets blocked by residue or clogs. You can do a "pull" to melt the residue and yank it out, but then I'd be worried about dislodging the ruby tip. Given the price of that one tiny part, and how susceptible nozzles are to damage, clogs and similar issues, that's a lot to pay.
Pook365 I have tried scratching a glass plate with the Olsson Ruby and it just slides along my glass plate without scratching even with quite substantial force. I even put up a video of it here on RUclips.
Erik Cederberg I just watched you're video, that's very odd. Do you have any explanation as to why it isn't scratching the bed? Even with a nice smooth finish as these nozzles look to have, it should still scratch it very easily -If you hold the curved surfaces of two wine glasses together, you can still feel they are scratching each other.
Pook365, i think i do. Ruby besides being exceptionally hard, is also very slippery. This is why they used to make bushings in precision clocks and watches out of it. And it will be very finely polished along crystal layers before it's shaped into a tool.
Solder the inner sleeve (the part that holds the ruby) into the outer part! They are two separate hunks of brass, only press-fit together. Thought I had an obstruction, so I ran an Atomic Pull. The inner sleeve and ruby came out with the filament! I used a lead-free electronics solder; melts around 340C. Clean all the parts, acid flux, clean up with water. This happened with an Olsonn 0.4 nozzle; I soldered the 0.6 and 0.8 before using them. Don't worry about hurting the ruby, they can glow orange-hot and not be harmed. Brass can get pretty hot too, melting around 700C. If you can find hard-solder/silver-solder with melting temps around 450c, all the better.
Olsonn Ruby's are great, but there are some caveats! The inner sleeve that secures the ruby is only press-fit; this is why 'cold-pulls' are cautioned against! Yes, I pulled a sleeve out of position that way. Yes, I played with the ruby tip. Yes, I re-installed the sleeve and ruby tip. Yes, I soldered the sleeve into place. Any solder with a melting point higher than your filament is OK; lead-free melts around 370C. Solder holds the sleeve and improves heat transfer. Ruby can run red-hot, so a little soldering heat aint gonna hurt.
Congrats! While I’m sure it’ll improve your print quality significantly with abrasives, I do have to laugh a bit that you’re putting a $100 nozzle on your $200 printer. It’s like you got the best quality, most premium engine and stuck it inside a used 1980 Toyota Corrola. Either way, good luck!
It is also the most important non-electronic part of your printer and will outlast the rest of the printer so you can put it on your next 3D printer is my impression. What good is a pen without the tip speaking as someone who writes with 0.5 mm gel ink pens.
Great review! Also really liked the engraved text on that snaplink you made! Looked like you didn't use any support for that, got any tip/video on how to make it like that?
Hi! I am new to the 3D printing world and I have found your videos really helpful and educative. I have a little question, I was watching a video you made a while ago about nozzles wearing down because of abrasive materials, you mention that here as well. A year after this video (and two after the other one) have you notice or experienced the Ruby Nozzle wearing down as well?
Carbon fiber vase ... right. I guess most people would have liked to see mechanical parts like clamps, bushings, brake levers, fan cowlings, bike pedals etc. ... but I suppose a Darthy noggin is ok as well...
Joel- Whats the benefit of printing with carbon fiber impregnated filament? I have seen some test that show regular nylon actually outperforms CF infused filament. That might help answer the: "why should you buy this expensive part?" question.
The CF in the Nylon gives it what I think is a different look once the model is done. I've always heard the CF adds a certain stiffness to the nylon strength, though, I haven't done any specific testing of this to verify. Yet.
@3D Printing Nerd. Hey Joe, very interesting nozzle and filament you shown us. Is it possible if you could share the print setting for that filament and what did you use for bed adhesion if you can recall? Thanks :) Btw absolutely love this channel and the contents you guys been putting out :)
This was great to watch. I am brand new to 3d printing with my new MP Maker Select Plus. Should I replace the stock nozzle? What would you recommend for that?
You can find a part similar to this inside a water jet. It's a ruby lined nozzle and replacements are only about $15. I think someone is running people through the ringer.
i like the idea of having ONE nozzle to rule them all... er i mean to print anything. Now, i use brass nozzle, and would swap out for a stainless steel nozzle to print abrasives filaments, then swap back to brass for the better thermal conductivity. Now, i could just have one, and never swap it out nor change it...
If you hollow out the top of Vader's head you could use that model as a container for many different things. Drill vertical holes down into the head and use it as a pen holder with a lid. Or use it as a candy bowl. Paper clip container. Piggy bank... The list is endless :)
What about glass instead of ruby? I know rubies are used in wristwatches as bearings for the gears, that's probably where the idea for a ruby nozzle comes from, but glass is also harder than steel and is a great heat conductor, but it's much cheaper than ruby.
I have been printing with the bog standard chinese 1.0 nozzle that came with my printer for three years now, and my prints have been fine once I had set up the ideal tweaks for PLA and Nylon, so I won't be rushing out to print anything for the royal family just yet, great vid though :-)
Been using ruby nozzles from Olsson since the first beta and I could not use anything else atm on my printers. Wow that did sound so adver.. anyhow, it freaking rocks
Would be interesting to see how to clean that nozzle properly. I would guess you can throw extreme heat to it. You wouldn’t be able to do that to the hardened nozzle either without softening the steel. No sure how they hardened it. Later
I love carbon nylon however I've gone through many " hardened " nozzles to date it's madness ! How long do these last in reality ? £45 approximately is alot to spend on one if it lasts afew month's !
This is really cool... I was looking at this online... and new the canadian price... I would like to see how well it prints with standard pla after a few 100 hours of carbon fiber. That will be the real test.
Yes, but the good thing about the ruby is that you likely don't own a drill that can hurt it, so if you get a bit in the right diameter you should be able to clear anything.
Nice south park reference. I cant imagine what south park would come up with for a 3d printing episode. My God that would be hilarious. I can only imagine cartman using it for something rediculous.
Hi Joel do you have any videos about what types of filament will or will not print on a CR 10. I am working on a project that needs to be impact resistant and strong so I was thinking of using fiber filament and kevlar fibers for the final product. If you do not have can I ask for a in depth look at what types of filaments will work with certain types of desktop 3d printers. Thanks.
hurt me so much that you use the carbon fiber filament to print decorative figures
So glad I’m not the only one that thought this as well
What else it good for? It worse that nylon and worse than carbon fiber. Even with actual fiber inside instead of dust it will have layers.
Vladimir Olegovich Not true, it’s like nylon except It has higher stiffness. Higher stiffness is extremely important for parts that are under stress. The impact strength is reduced but the stiffness makes it incredible for structural parts and allows 3d printing to be used in things which under go high strain and even hard impacts.
ikr
Exactly. I would think it would be good for structural/mechanical parts.
I would have loved to see a comparison between a regular nozzle, and a hardened nozzle.
Great review :) we use this nozzle since about half a year in the rapid prototyping lab at our university with all sorts of material, also very abrasive ones and so far prints like on day on ;) sure you can get 100 standart nozzles for that money, but in a production enviroment this nozzle is gold ;)
I think that's just it. Getting 100 standard brass nozzles is great for any DIY person, but, in a production environment, something like the Olsson Ruby is perfect!
Well copper... but yeah. LOL
That ruby nozzle is about 1/3 the cost of my entire 3D printer...
its 2/3 the cost of mine lol
Its 1/2 of mine!
1/1.2 of mine
Where do you guys get a 3D printer under $200?!?!
from china some are good printers like the 180$ c 10 clone only is dont have heted bead
So glad you reviewed this as i was considering this upgrade for my prusa i3 mk2s, keep up the good work and high five!
It seems the 3D printing industry has completely overlooked or ignored basalt fibers, which are much cheaper than carbon fiber and have a higher ultimate tensile strength, 4840 vs 4137 MPa. That is unless they start using the patented "Toray T1100G" variety, which would probably bring the cost of a roll of filament to more than the ruby nozzle. The Toray 1100G is also export restricted.
Then again neither nylon nor PLA is going to be able to bond to any of these fibers well enough for those differences to make a difference in the final material strength anyway, so why not go with the less expensive option??
While I'm here .. basalt fiber also handily beats Kevlar, which only comes in at 3757 MPa. Additionally basalt fibers can withstand a working temperature of 1200C and some specialty varieties are good to 1500C.. Kevlar might be good to about a tenth of that as it is basically an improved plastic/nylon.
Nice. As someone else mentioned below, another benefit of the Olsson Ruby nozzle is that since it is primarily brass, it won't need the additional heat that a hardened steel nozzle will require.
I've been using one of these for about 3 months and I can not say anything bad about it. It has been an absolute champ.
3:18 - That legitimately made me laugh out loud. Not the joke, but the "Come on, you get it" look, immediately interrupted by "I don't get it".
Was the joke a south park reference?
Sure was
i liked the south park pun ^^ now hes canadian xD
Ikr I got it
Everyone knows the south park Canadians
Just got this nozzle.
Hands down the best nozzle I have ever used!
NylonG and NylonX comes out amazing!
Already through a roll of NylonG and the prints are still prefect!
Do you dry NylonG and NylonX before printing? I guess so huh?
Heard of nylonX but not G
@Michel van der Meij you be silly not to dry filament, I am sure this youtube user or cnc kitchen has a video showing what it like when not dry as bubbles/boils if water in it and often put in a drying or storage box with pipe from there to printer to keep nice
“Now he’s Canadian”
Got me laughing out loud. Thank you.
Hahaha welcome :)
"And now its Canadian!" I litterally laugt for 2 minutes straight ! XD
I love Southpark.
3D printing has its good times and its awfully frustrating times, especially jobs that take overnight, come to find out the entire job is trashed when you check it in the morning. And if acquiring the Olsson Ruby mitigates that, then the projects moves forward, it's worth it. I'll be picking these up!
So I bought two of these for my pair of Anycubic I3 Megas. I have to say the difference is striking. I print primarily with PC and Nylon-CF and the initial print quality is amazingly sharp. I purchased from a different vendor than the one promoted here and had the nozzles in 2 days. Brilliant, very happy with these and I'll get more of these as my printer array grows!
00:23 good lord! That windows chime warped me back in 1995 !
I wish i could print half smooth as your prints
Ive been using the ruby for about two months and have printed almost only 3dx carbon nylon with great results and zero signs of wear. However if i print with proto pastas carbon htpla I do have to oil my filament. I didnt have to do this with a e3d hardened nozzle but If thats all I have to do to keep from going through a nozzle every few spools I'm fine with that. I think like Joel said if you print primarily in abrasive filaments its worth the cost. The ruby in combination with a TitanAero running on a Prusa mk2s is a solid combo for anyone. Ive had nothing but good results.
Great review! I would love to see a follow up segment on how this holds up to other abrasives like glow in the dark filaments and glass filed, as well as how it's holding up 6 months from now.
Sapphire is chemically the same as ruby (with different impurities for color) and they use that for watch faces so I suspect it'll be fine.
I know of people who have used the Olsson Ruby for 6+ months and 20kg+ of different abrasive filaments without any signs of wear and perfect print quality, so they should be fine.
Also try Tungsten ABS or other extremely abrasive materials
Do you know if it prints normal materials just as well as other nozzle or should I also buy a normal nozzle?
So far it's printed PLA, ABS, and PETG just fine
"Now he's Canadian" Excellent made me laugh till INowed
Now that you have a good exotic filament nozel, Please print a model of Mars out of the iron filiment and rusy it to make it a natral rust red the way Mars is in reality. I'm sure a 3d model can be made or possibly taken from another program and converted into a printable format.
mtndewv www.thingiverse.com/thing:2413622 :)
Pook365 if only I had a 3d printer lol, hopefully he sees this and decides to try and print it. I've suggested it in the past but I'm not sure he had the right nozel at the time.
He be like: "400% it! it will be the biggest 3D printed Mars in the known universe!"
+
Am I the only one who will mention how adorable the strowlberry is and how CRISP it printed? My first (personally owned) printer will come next week, and I wish even 1/2 of my prints would come out so crisp lol. Maybe I will use this as a personal overhang benchmark xD
I loved the editing style of this video :)
Thanks!
"Now he's Canadian..." LOL So Hilarious Joel!
Omg Joel I can't believe you did that, as always high five
Xander yay congrats Xander!!
Anders has put a lot of time and research into that design. With the hardened steel nozzles, you'll find yourself having to crank up the heat due to the heat loss, versus the Olsson being brass. Nice prints (sorry, Darth!)
Thank you for this very informative video of the Olsson Ruby nozzle. I'm quite new to 3D printing and have recently received my Prusa i3 MK2S 3D printer (your review of it certainly helped me with my decision to purchase it). As of right now, I have only printed with PLA (with complete success); yet I am looking/researching about printing with other materials. So keep up the good work!
"I don't get it" lmao! Why am I laughing so hard at that??
My two concerns about the Olsson are:
1) multiple people report that the ruby tip itself can pop out of the nozzle. Its a fairly common issue from what 've seen. At that point the nozzle is useless. I believe Olssen has good warranty coverage but it's a hassle to return and deal with replacements.
2) if the nozzle gets blocked or clogged, it's going to be really tough to clear it out? I go through a new nozzle every few months, and it's generally not because it's worn out it's that the nozzle gets blocked by residue or clogs. You can do a "pull" to melt the residue and yank it out, but then I'd be worried about dislodging the ruby tip.
Given the price of that one tiny part, and how susceptible nozzles are to damage, clogs and similar issues, that's a lot to pay.
I love that brief look of disbelief when the cameraman said he didn't get the flappy-headed Canadian joke. :P
TRY OUR NEW DIAMOND TIP NOZZLE! DESIGNED TO SCRATCH THE FUCK OUT OF YOUR BUILD PLATE
The ruby one would do that almost as easily, ruby is still exceptionally hard.
Pook365 I have tried scratching a glass plate with the Olsson Ruby and it just slides along my glass plate without scratching even with quite substantial force. I even put up a video of it here on RUclips.
Erik Cederberg I just watched you're video, that's very odd.
Do you have any explanation as to why it isn't scratching the bed?
Even with a nice smooth finish as these nozzles look to have, it should still scratch it very easily -If you hold the curved surfaces of two wine glasses together, you can still feel they are scratching each other.
Learn to level your plate, mate.
Pook365, i think i do. Ruby besides being exceptionally hard, is also very slippery. This is why they used to make bushings in precision clocks and watches out of it. And it will be very finely polished along crystal layers before it's shaped into a tool.
Thanks for the info. Was planning on only printing with NylonX, so this was very helpful.
that fiber force is off the charts
Solder the inner sleeve (the part that holds the ruby) into the outer part!
They are two separate hunks of brass, only press-fit together.
Thought I had an obstruction, so I ran an Atomic Pull.
The inner sleeve and ruby came out with the filament!
I used a lead-free electronics solder; melts around 340C.
Clean all the parts, acid flux, clean up with water.
This happened with an Olsonn 0.4 nozzle; I soldered the 0.6 and 0.8 before using them.
Don't worry about hurting the ruby, they can glow orange-hot and not be harmed.
Brass can get pretty hot too, melting around 700C.
If you can find hard-solder/silver-solder with melting temps around 450c, all the better.
That Dart Vader NOOOOOOOOOUUUUU after he knew about he’s head is hilarious!!!! Hahahahahhaha
You lucky one!! I want this nozzle so badly!! One more item to add to my NYMF purchasing list!! + your HighFive Filament!!
Just bought one! Actually two!
The south park referance got you a subscription! 🤘🤘
It is excellent. It processes the wood particle filament which was impossible with the standard nozzles we got with our Prusa MK3.
Olsonn Ruby's are great, but there are some caveats!
The inner sleeve that secures the ruby is only press-fit; this is why 'cold-pulls' are cautioned against!
Yes, I pulled a sleeve out of position that way.
Yes, I played with the ruby tip.
Yes, I re-installed the sleeve and ruby tip.
Yes, I soldered the sleeve into place.
Any solder with a melting point higher than your filament is OK; lead-free melts around 370C.
Solder holds the sleeve and improves heat transfer.
Ruby can run red-hot, so a little soldering heat aint gonna hurt.
That's a nice faceplate you got there haha. I totally want a ruby nozzle.
Talk to Matterhackers, maybe they could sponsor a cool NylonX project with you!
I just received my Olsen ruby nozzle for my anet a8. Can't wait to install!!!
Congrats! While I’m sure it’ll improve your print quality significantly with abrasives, I do have to laugh a bit that you’re putting a $100 nozzle on your $200 printer. It’s like you got the best quality, most premium engine and stuck it inside a used 1980 Toyota Corrola. Either way, good luck!
A fused diamond noxxle recently got started on Kickstarter. It will be available soon.
better heat transfer than gold or copper
That Canadian joke make me laugh so hard😂
YOU GOT IT!
@@3DPrintingNerd 👏👏👏👏👏👏
That's a nice strowlberry
It is also the most important non-electronic part of your printer and will outlast the rest of the printer so you can put it on your next 3D printer is my impression. What good is a pen without the tip speaking as someone who writes with 0.5 mm gel ink pens.
That sold me on the ruby nozzle, using one of your sweet, sweet affiliate links for it now! :D
YOU SIR ARE AWESOME
My birth stone just turned into awesomeness.
Great review! Also really liked the engraved text on that snaplink you made! Looked like you didn't use any support for that, got any tip/video on how to make it like that?
"Now he's Canadian"
"I don't get it"
😂😂😂
Hi! I am new to the 3D printing world and I have found your videos really helpful and educative. I have a little question, I was watching a video you made a while ago about nozzles wearing down because of abrasive materials, you mention that here as well. A year after this video (and two after the other one) have you notice or experienced the Ruby Nozzle wearing down as well?
Carbon fiber vase ... right. I guess most people would have liked to see mechanical parts like clamps, bushings, brake levers, fan cowlings, bike pedals etc. ... but I suppose a Darthy noggin is ok as well...
Hi Joel, Josh gets a nerd point for being an Star wars fan, but then loses it, by not being a South Park fan ;) Good video... Thanks.
Splendid Video thank you for the review!
@ 3:16 LMAO!! Terrance and Phillip rule!
Joel- Whats the benefit of printing with carbon fiber impregnated filament? I have seen some test that show regular nylon actually outperforms CF infused filament. That might help answer the: "why should you buy this expensive part?" question.
The CF in the Nylon gives it what I think is a different look once the model is done. I've always heard the CF adds a certain stiffness to the nylon strength, though, I haven't done any specific testing of this to verify. Yet.
It's been almost than 3 and a half years since this nozzle was reviewed. How is the wear on the nozzle? And how is the wear on the extruder gear(s)?
Long-term testing would be a good idea.
I also wonder if it can be made with an 0.1 millimeter nozzle diameter.
@3D Printing Nerd. Hey Joe, very interesting nozzle and filament you shown us. Is it possible if you could share the print setting for that filament and what did you use for bed adhesion if you can recall? Thanks :) Btw absolutely love this channel and the contents you guys been putting out :)
This was great to watch. I am brand new to 3d printing with my new MP Maker Select Plus. Should I replace the stock nozzle? What would you recommend for that?
Hi Joel,
How does it compare with a metal nozzle for staying clean? I.e. does it get glazed with burnt plastic like metal does or does it stay clean?
You can find a part similar to this inside a water jet. It's a ruby lined nozzle and replacements are only about $15. I think someone is running people through the ringer.
These are obviously only going to get made in very small numbers, rather than being mass produced.
Wow! Well placed South Park reference. Kudos.
i like the idea of having ONE nozzle to rule them all... er i mean to print anything. Now, i use brass nozzle, and would swap out for a stainless steel nozzle to print abrasives filaments, then swap back to brass for the better thermal conductivity.
Now, i could just have one, and never swap it out nor change it...
i like how you can hear the vase crack as he's talking about how strong it was while he cut to some other filler video. l0l
I like the models you printed of "Black blob #1" and "Slightly Smaller Black Blob #2"... #lowcontrastscreen 😅
If you hollow out the top of Vader's head you could use that model as a container for many different things.
Drill vertical holes down into the head and use it as a pen holder with a lid.
Or use it as a candy bowl. Paper clip container. Piggy bank... The list is endless :)
What about glass instead of ruby? I know rubies are used in wristwatches as bearings for the gears, that's probably where the idea for a ruby nozzle comes from, but glass is also harder than steel and is a great heat conductor, but it's much cheaper than ruby.
Wow thats one Angry Looking Bird wait.......you know what I mean, Great video Joel......now print some ruby red slippers !!!
Nozzle at the price of a printer (Anet a8) is sheer marketing! Anyway, nice vid!
This may be irrelevant but I wonder how well it prints flexibles?
I'm going to be feeding it some soon, though with the Ultimaker and it's Bowden setup, nothing super flexi.
HI Mate Love the show.... are most of these plastics thermosetting or just thermoplastic? what would happen if you baked the thermos plastic?
Some waterjets are using the similar ruby nozzles and they cost only about 1/10 of the price of Olsson Ruby nozzle.
Hmm… do you know if any water jet nozzles have any M6 threads?
I have a hypercube build i am working on. Wondering if i should just spoil myself and go with the ruby nozzle
Neato. First time on your channel. You explain things very well! What's a good starter printer in your experience?
the Canadian joke made my day hahahahahahah nice one
after a year do you recommend it as a good nozzle/investment?
im asking because in that price you can get arround 800 cheap nozzles on aliexpress
cheap aliexpress nozzle would wear out before a single print with these materials. even steel, let alone brass wears out FAST with carbon fiber/nylon.
CF chews through brass like crazy!
Halloween is coming up. I'd love to see the nozzle hold up with glow in the dark filament.
I have been printing with the bog standard chinese 1.0 nozzle that came with my printer for three years now, and my prints have been fine once I had set up the ideal tweaks for PLA and Nylon, so I won't be rushing out to print anything for the royal family just yet, great vid though :-)
I'm assuming this nozzle won't work in any of the LulzBot printers as they rely on an electrically conductive nozzle tip for auto bed levelling.
Been using ruby nozzles from Olsson since the first beta and I could not use anything else atm on my printers. Wow that did sound so adver.. anyhow, it freaking rocks
Nice one mate
Would be interesting to see how to clean that nozzle properly. I would guess you can throw extreme heat to it. You wouldn’t be able to do that to the hardened nozzle either without softening the steel. No sure how they hardened it. Later
I love carbon nylon however I've gone through many " hardened " nozzles to date it's madness ! How long do these last in reality ? £45 approximately is alot to spend on one if it lasts afew month's !
There is a 28 dollar version on AliExpress, can you do a comparison and see if there are any major differences?
I'm rocking the Olsson rubby copper version along with my mosquito; loving it, though it isnt a cheap pair of mods
Damn i need to get one of those for my UM2 ext. Those prints look so clean. what speed were you printing at on the vase and how long did it take?
Awesome stuff - BLAME CANADA!!!! hahah - is the Ruby compatible with the CR-10???
Is the CR-10 compatible with E3D style nozzles? If it does then the ruby nozzle will work just swell :)
wouldn't the brass BEHIND the ruby wear out instead then? the filament is still rubbing at the brass behind the ruby, not JUST the orifice and tip.
This is really cool... I was looking at this online... and new the canadian price... I would like to see how well it prints with standard pla after a few 100 hours of carbon fiber. That will be the real test.
Do you have links to the filament you used that carbon-fiber and blue sparkle is really cool. Thanks for the video
Failed print, or chance to hollow it out and have a great candy dish?
I understood your Southpark Canadian joke lol
What about clogs? Getting a chunk stuck in a $90 nozzle if you can't clear it out with solvent or drill would suck.
Yes, but the good thing about the ruby is that you likely don't own a drill that can hurt it, so if you get a bit in the right diameter you should be able to clear anything.
how strong do you reckon that shackle is .... it could probably carry your weight!
@2:31 The force is strong with Joel
Nice south park reference. I cant imagine what south park would come up with for a 3d printing episode. My God that would be hilarious. I can only imagine cartman using it for something rediculous.
Hi Joel do you have any videos about what types of filament will or will not print on a CR 10. I am working on a project that needs to be impact resistant and strong so I was thinking of using fiber filament and kevlar fibers for the final product. If you do not have can I ask for a in depth look at what types of filaments will work with certain types of desktop 3d printers. Thanks.
Ruby lasting a life time: is this still the case?
Wouldn't the metal around the ruby tip eventually wear out?
That’s a very good question - I’m not sure. That’s a question for them.
I'd like to see you go through lots of abrasive filament to get a more clearer picture of ruby vs. hardened steel tips.