On Sandy it’s a very nice card. They probably got you on the centering both on the front & back. Also take a good hard look at the surface. Any in perfections? Wishing you better luck next time.
@@wandtvdougwolfe1 Thank you for watching and commenting. Check out some of my other videos if you get a chance. I crack the Sandy Case and send it in for another submission. Check out the results it gets. Let’s just say I was much happier with the 2nd submission. Appreciate you! Take care!
Nice sub for sure. Too bad about the Campy. I have the SGC and PSA don't just grade the min size cards. Its a error from the company and its not trimmed. I hope to get some new blind reveal videos up soon. Keep the videos coming and you gained a new subscriber.
@@3gslabs483 Thank you very much for watching, commenting and subscribing. I really appreciate you. Thank you for the info as well. I appreciate you. Take care!
@@patrickdaniele7803 That is a great idea! Thank you very much! Have a card show coming here in a few weeks. So I will use your idea then. Thank you for commenting! Appreciate you!
If they judged authenticity based on condition at ALL, they would have to reject all good condition cards of that type as fake. My guess is the printing characeristics is what they based their judgement on.
@@mam362 Thank you very much for watching. You are so right about the condition aspect. Some really old cards out there in amazing new like condition that we know are real. Take care!
The green "50" was a dead giveaway that the card was not real. Also, the detail in the picture on the counterfeit is lacking...especially when you see how strong the coloring is.
It's definitely the cantering on the Koufax. SGC hit me hard with a beautiful Mantle last year, and lots of people mentioned that SGC in particular is tougher with that. It's a beautiful card, though, much better than my 1960 raw Koufax. If you're strictly a collector, just enjoy the nice card. Resubmitting will unfortunately give you a similar grade, imho. As for the Mantle, that's the worst scenario. All of the suggestions are great in retrospect, but most of us don't think all those steps when buying a card.
@@inthebiginning Thank you very much! From what you have said and others the centering is definitely the problem. It will be a card I keep most likely. I did send it in but for more of an experiment. Will see how it does. Thank you for watching and commenting. Appreciate you!
Sgc is consistent(saw your previous video)…it’s the centering my friend, still a great looking card…gave you a sub🤙🏽save you money…a 5 is a great grade for a 1960 Topps card…you said it yourself… card looks good…don’t focus on the number…it won’t be higher then a 5
@@LouRokTV Thank you very much for subscribing! I bet you are correct and it will be the same. Just mainly experimenting with it. I do think it looks great no matter. Take care of yourself and Thanks again!
All you have to do is use your phone flashlight behind it. If the light shines through, it's counterfeit. My son and I have been in the card business for 35+ years and I've seen many counterfeits. We check with the flashlight first thing on 1950s and 1960s cards. There are a few exceptions but 99% of counterfeits of that era will let the light through.
@@thondomain Thank you so much! That is great to know. Will start making sure I have my flashlight on me. Really appreciate you. Do you have any other tips? What if it is online? Or do you avoid online raw card purchases. Thank you again! Have a good one!
@@RYANKBPRODUCTIONS If it's online look for "weasel clauses" such "It looks real to me" or "I bought it at a yard sale and they said it was real". Ebay won't back you up in that case. Normally I won't buy expensive vintage ungraded unless it's a reputable dealer like Burbank Sports Cards. If you can hold the card feel of it raw. Fake cards are usually smooth front and back while real vintage is rough on the back. Also magnify the black ink of the name. Vintage was printed in two stages; first the picture and colors and then the lettering. The lettering should be solid, not pixilated. Counterfeits are usually printed in a single run.
@@RYANKBPRODUCTIONS Online watch for "weasel clauses" like "it looks authentic to me but I'm no expert" or "found at yard sale, looks real". Ebay won't back you on those types of listings. If you can examine the card feel the front and back. Counterfeits are often smooth on both sides while a legit card is rough on the back. Also magnify the card and look at the black ink. Real cards were printed in two stages; first printing was the photo and colors and second printing was any black borders or letters, like the box around Mantle's photo. The colored part would be a blend of inks and have a pixelated-like pattern but the black would be solid and not a blend of inks. Counterfeits are mostly printed in one pass, mixing inks on colors and the black. Beware any ungraded vintage that looks as sharp as that 1966 Mantle. Why wouldn't they grade a card that near mint? For expensive cards I don't buy ungraded vintage online unless from a very reputable seller like Battersbox. Any other help I can give let me know. Our store is Instant Replay Sports Cards in Panama City, Fl.
@@RYANKBPRODUCTIONS Online watch for "weasel clauses" like "it looks authentic to me but I'm no expert" or "found at yard sale, looks real". Ebay won't back you on those types of listings. If you can examine the card feel the front and back. Counterfeits are often smooth on both sides while a legit card is rough on the back. Also magnify the card and look at the black ink. Real cards were printed in two stages; first printing was the photo and colors and second printing was any black borders or letters, like the box around Mantle's photo. The colored part would be a blend of inks and have a pixelated-like pattern but the black would be solid and not a blend of inks. Counterfeits are mostly printed in one pass, mixing inks on colors and the black.
Beware any ungraded vintage that looks as sharp as that 1966 Mantle. Why wouldn't they grade a card that near mint? For expensive cards I don't buy ungraded vintage online unless from a very reputable seller like Battersbox. Any other help I can give let me know. Our store is Instant Replay Sports Cards in Panama City, Fl.
@@RYANKBPRODUCTIONS Online watch for "weasel clauses" like "it looks authentic to me but I'm no expert" or "found at yard sale, looks real". Ebay won't back you on those types of listings. If you can examine the card feel the front and back. Counterfeits are often smooth on both sides while a legit card is rough on the back. Also magnify the card and look at the black ink. Real cards were printed in two stages; first printing was the photo and colors and second printing was any black borders or letters, like the box around Mantle's photo. The colored part would be a blend of inks and have a pixelated-like pattern but the black would be solid and not a blend of inks. Counterfeits are mostly printed in one pass, mixing inks on colors and the black.
Beware any ungraded vintage that looks as sharp as that 1966 Mantle. Why wouldn't they grade a card that near mint? For expensive cards I don't buy ungraded vintage online unless from a very reputable seller like Battersbox. Any other help I can give let me know. Our store is Instant Replay Sports Cards in Panama City, Fl.
@@threeg6966 Thank you! I did end up cracking it and sending it in. Should be receiving it back soon. Will most likely get the same grade. I appreciate you. Take care!
Regarding your Koufax, grading companies are much stricter than in the past regarding centering. It was hard to see your card very well, but I would have guessed a 5-6 just by looking at it. I dont think the added expense would justify getting it regraded. This is just my opinion and i am wrong all the time! Good luck!
@@tomwerdenhause3922 You are most likely going to be correct. More as an experiment I sent it in again. We shall see. Take care and thanks for watching and commenting. I appreciate you!
I'd be weary of buying any high end vintage cards that are not graded. It might mean that the seller knows the card has been trimmed etc and would not pass the basic test of minimum size
Noticed stripes on his pants were more bold on the counterfeit card. Bummer it was COU! I think it would be interesting to see what they would do with a re-grade.
Cantering top to bottom and left to right is too off for them to grade higher despite the overall nice eye appeal I have a very very similar Clemente Rookie SGC graded 4.5 with similar cantering issues and good eye appeal so not surprised The registration on the card is super though Call it a high end 5 on your Koufax
@@davidgannon8663 Thank you very much! Call it a high 5! I like that. Thanks to you and others I am learning a lot. I know more and more what to look for. I sent it off and we will see what it gets soon. Either way it is a keeper for me for sure. I really appreciate you. Thank you for watching and commenting. I have a lot to learn. Take care.
Online watch for "weasel clauses" like "it looks authentic to me but I'm no expert" or "found at yard sale, looks real". Ebay won't back you on those types of listings. If you can examine the card feel the front and back. Counterfeits are often smooth on both sides while a legit card is rough on the back. Also magnify the card and look at the black ink. Real cards were printed in two stages; first printing was the photo and colors and second printing was any black borders or letters, like the box around Mantle's photo. The colored part would be a blend of inks and have a pixelated-like pattern but the black would be solid and not a blend of inks. Counterfeits are mostly printed in one pass, mixing inks on colors and the black.
Beware any ungraded vintage that looks as sharp as that 1966 Mantle. Why wouldn't they grade a card that near mint? For expensive cards I don't buy ungraded vintage online unless from a very reputable seller like Battersbox. Any other help I can give let me know. Our store is Instant Replay Sports Cards in Panama City, Fl.
@@thondomain Thank you very much! That is some great things to watch out for. Thank you for taking the time to share all this info with me and everyone who watches and reads this. I appreciate you very much! Take care!
@@b-man1232 I let the person know and he instantly said request a refund. He apologized and said he had it for a long time. He gave me a full refund. So it was a real eye opener and a lesson for me to be more careful. Really appreciate you watching and commenting. Thank you very much! Take care of yourself!
@@rnklv8281 Maybe? But it did not say reprint on it. I believe they mark them reprint when they are printed from the real company. I really don’t know. I hope to learn more about it.
@@JC-pu7gi I let the seller know and he had me send it back and gave me a full refund. He apologized and said it was not intentional. So luckily it ended up a non expensive lesson. Thank you for watching and commenting. Appreciate you!
@@ronaldsmith1282 Dang! That would be a rough one. I was lucky on mine that the seller gave me a refund. He said he had no idea. He had really good reviews. So I trusted it. Thank you for commenting and watching
SGC grades the centering really tough these days, I think that’s what got you on the Koufax. You might get a 6 or an 8OC from PSA, SGC is just harder on the centering once it gets past 70/30 or so. On vintage grading PSA seems to really focus on technical grade while SGC takes eye appeal more into account. SGC also seems to reward centered cards. Just my two cents. all the best, Ronnie
@@vintagecardnerd Thank you Ronnie. Check out my other video SGC submission reveal to see how Sandy did when I sent it back in. Appreciate you! Thank you and take care!
On Sandy it’s a very nice card. They probably got you on the centering both on the front & back. Also take a good hard look at the surface. Any in perfections? Wishing you better luck next time.
@@wandtvdougwolfe1 Thank you for watching and commenting. Check out some of my other videos if you get a chance. I crack the Sandy Case and send it in for another submission. Check out the results it gets. Let’s just say I was much happier with the 2nd submission. Appreciate you! Take care!
Nice sub for sure. Too bad about the Campy. I have the SGC and PSA don't just grade the min size cards. Its a error from the company and its not trimmed. I hope to get some new blind reveal videos up soon. Keep the videos coming and you gained a new subscriber.
@@3gslabs483 Thank you very much for watching, commenting and subscribing. I really appreciate you. Thank you for the info as well. I appreciate you. Take care!
Man, those Black SGC Holders look really cool...makes the card "pop"!
Thank you! I agree with you!
Always have some commons from different eras with you. You can use them to measure against the cards you are buying to check for trimming.
@@patrickdaniele7803 That is a great idea! Thank you very much! Have a card show coming here in a few weeks. So I will use your idea then. Thank you for commenting! Appreciate you!
The bottom right area looks like it was printed on a desk jet printer. The back is too white & pristine for being 60 years old. Very easy to tell.
@@stoneyj1a1 Thank you very much! You are right. It took me seeing it in person with my readers to really see it. Appreciate you!
If they judged authenticity based on condition at ALL, they would have to reject all good condition cards of that type as fake. My guess is the printing characeristics is what they based their judgement on.
@@mam362 Thank you very much for watching. You are so right about the condition aspect. Some really old cards out there in amazing new like condition that we know are real. Take care!
Sharp corners are not enough, the card surface, for instance might have wrinkles, ding, scratches, humidity damage
The green "50" was a dead giveaway that the card was not real. Also, the detail in the picture on the counterfeit is lacking...especially when you see how strong the coloring is.
You can see the darkness on mantles face and can tell it looked faked
Obvious Mantle non-genuine card: card number is wrong color.
It's definitely the cantering on the Koufax. SGC hit me hard with a beautiful Mantle last year, and lots of people mentioned that SGC in particular is tougher with that. It's a beautiful card, though, much better than my 1960 raw Koufax. If you're strictly a collector, just enjoy the nice card. Resubmitting will unfortunately give you a similar grade, imho. As for the Mantle, that's the worst scenario. All of the suggestions are great in retrospect, but most of us don't think all those steps when buying a card.
@@inthebiginning Thank you very much! From what you have said and others the centering is definitely the problem. It will be a card I keep most likely. I did send it in but for more of an experiment. Will see how it does. Thank you for watching and commenting. Appreciate you!
And touch the surface, it is rigid not the same Topps quality and the shinning orange back card color and of course the green number
@@caesarvalentin6332 Thank you for watching and Thank you for the tips and what to look out for. Appreciate you. Take care!
Sgc is consistent(saw your previous video)…it’s the centering my friend, still a great looking card…gave you a sub🤙🏽save you money…a 5 is a great grade for a 1960 Topps card…you said it yourself… card looks good…don’t focus on the number…it won’t be higher then a 5
@@LouRokTV Thank you very much for subscribing! I bet you are correct and it will be the same. Just mainly experimenting with it. I do think it looks great no matter. Take care of yourself and Thanks again!
All you have to do is use your phone flashlight behind it. If the light shines through, it's counterfeit.
My son and I have been in the card business for 35+ years and I've seen many counterfeits. We check with the flashlight first thing on 1950s and 1960s cards. There are a few exceptions but 99% of counterfeits of that era will let the light through.
@@thondomain Thank you so much! That is great to know. Will start making sure I have my flashlight on me. Really appreciate you. Do you have any other tips? What if it is online? Or do you avoid online raw card purchases. Thank you again! Have a good one!
@@RYANKBPRODUCTIONS If it's online look for "weasel clauses" such "It looks real to me" or "I bought it at a
yard sale and they said it was real". Ebay won't back you up in that case. Normally I won't buy expensive vintage ungraded unless it's a reputable dealer like Burbank Sports Cards. If you can hold the card feel of it raw. Fake cards are usually smooth front and back while real vintage is rough on the back. Also magnify the black ink of the name. Vintage was printed in two stages; first the picture and colors and then the lettering. The lettering should be solid, not pixilated. Counterfeits are usually printed in a single run.
@@RYANKBPRODUCTIONS Online watch for "weasel clauses" like "it looks authentic to me but I'm no expert" or "found at yard sale, looks real". Ebay won't back you on those types of listings.
If you can examine the card feel the front and back. Counterfeits are often smooth on both sides while a legit card is rough on the back.
Also magnify the card and look at the black ink. Real cards were printed in two stages; first printing was the photo and colors and second printing was any black borders or letters, like the box around Mantle's photo. The colored part would be a blend of inks and have a pixelated-like pattern but the black would be solid and not a blend of inks. Counterfeits are mostly printed in one pass, mixing inks on colors and the black.
Beware any ungraded vintage that looks as sharp as that 1966 Mantle. Why wouldn't they grade a card that near mint?
For expensive cards I don't buy ungraded vintage online unless from a very reputable seller like Battersbox.
Any other help I can give let me know. Our store is Instant Replay Sports Cards in Panama City, Fl.
@@RYANKBPRODUCTIONS Online watch for "weasel clauses" like "it looks authentic to me but I'm no expert" or "found at yard sale, looks real". Ebay won't back you on those types of listings.
If you can examine the card feel the front and back. Counterfeits are often smooth on both sides while a legit card is rough on the back.
Also magnify the card and look at the black ink. Real cards were printed in two stages; first printing was the photo and colors and second printing was any black borders or letters, like the box around Mantle's photo. The colored part would be a blend of inks and have a pixelated-like pattern but the black would be solid and not a blend of inks. Counterfeits are mostly printed in one pass, mixing inks on colors and the black.
Beware any ungraded vintage that looks as sharp as that 1966 Mantle. Why wouldn't they grade a card that near mint?
For expensive cards I don't buy ungraded vintage online unless from a very reputable seller like Battersbox.
Any other help I can give let me know. Our store is Instant Replay Sports Cards in Panama City, Fl.
@@RYANKBPRODUCTIONS Online watch for "weasel clauses" like "it looks authentic to me but I'm no expert" or "found at yard sale, looks real". Ebay won't back you on those types of listings.
If you can examine the card feel the front and back. Counterfeits are often smooth on both sides while a legit card is rough on the back.
Also magnify the card and look at the black ink. Real cards were printed in two stages; first printing was the photo and colors and second printing was any black borders or letters, like the box around Mantle's photo. The colored part would be a blend of inks and have a pixelated-like pattern but the black would be solid and not a blend of inks. Counterfeits are mostly printed in one pass, mixing inks on colors and the black.
Beware any ungraded vintage that looks as sharp as that 1966 Mantle. Why wouldn't they grade a card that near mint?
For expensive cards I don't buy ungraded vintage online unless from a very reputable seller like Battersbox.
Any other help I can give let me know. Our store is Instant Replay Sports Cards in Panama City, Fl.
I wouldn't crack the Koufax case.
@@threeg6966 Thank you! I did end up cracking it and sending it in. Should be receiving it back soon. Will most likely get the same grade. I appreciate you. Take care!
Regarding your Koufax, grading companies are much stricter than in the past regarding centering. It was hard to see your card very well, but I would have guessed a 5-6 just by looking at it. I dont think the added expense would justify getting it regraded. This is just my opinion and i am wrong all the time! Good luck!
@@tomwerdenhause3922 You are most likely going to be correct. More as an experiment I sent it in again. We shall see. Take care and thanks for watching and commenting. I appreciate you!
I'd be weary of buying any high end vintage cards that are not graded. It might mean that the seller knows the card has been trimmed etc and would not pass the basic test of minimum size
Noticed stripes on his pants were more bold on the counterfeit card. Bummer it was COU! I think it would be interesting to see what they would do with a re-grade.
I cracked that Sandy Koufax. Check out my new video. Hoping for a better grade this time.
Cantering top to bottom and left to right is too off for them to grade higher despite the overall nice eye appeal
I have a very very similar Clemente Rookie SGC graded 4.5 with similar cantering issues and good eye appeal so not surprised
The registration on the card is super though
Call it a high end 5 on your Koufax
@@davidgannon8663 Thank you very much! Call it a high 5! I like that. Thanks to you and others I am learning a lot. I know more and more what to look for. I sent it off and we will see what it gets soon. Either way it is a keeper for me for sure. I really appreciate you. Thank you for watching and commenting. I have a lot to learn. Take care.
Online watch for "weasel clauses" like "it looks authentic to me but I'm no expert" or "found at yard sale, looks real". Ebay won't back you on those types of listings.
If you can examine the card feel the front and back. Counterfeits are often smooth on both sides while a legit card is rough on the back.
Also magnify the card and look at the black ink. Real cards were printed in two stages; first printing was the photo and colors and second printing was any black borders or letters, like the box around Mantle's photo. The colored part would be a blend of inks and have a pixelated-like pattern but the black would be solid and not a blend of inks. Counterfeits are mostly printed in one pass, mixing inks on colors and the black.
Beware any ungraded vintage that looks as sharp as that 1966 Mantle. Why wouldn't they grade a card that near mint?
For expensive cards I don't buy ungraded vintage online unless from a very reputable seller like Battersbox.
Any other help I can give let me know. Our store is Instant Replay Sports Cards in Panama City, Fl.
@@thondomain Thank you very much! That is some great things to watch out for. Thank you for taking the time to share all this info with me and everyone who watches and reads this. I appreciate you very much! Take care!
Did you let the Ebay Seller know that it came back as counterfeit? Man, that's too bad - beyond frustrating!
@@b-man1232 I let the person know and he instantly said request a refund. He apologized and said he had it for a long time. He gave me a full refund. So it was a real eye opener and a lesson for me to be more careful. Really appreciate you watching and commenting. Thank you very much! Take care of yourself!
Seller knew it was a fake.
If the seller is reputable, he will refund you what you paid for it.
@@tomwerdenhause3922 I contacted him and he did! He gave me no problem on returning it.
the yankees red banner and yellow contrast is way off , you see how bad color off/ it is compared to the real one it is
i saw the mantle from new jersey being fake the number 50 on the back should not be green
Too white and too bright, unless a card from that era was kept inside of a book there would be normal fading.
Hope you report this fraudulent ebay seller ASAP!
He knows he's selling fakes. Don't be fooled when he denies it.
Is it possible that the Mantle card was a Topps issued reprint, issued at a later date?
@@rnklv8281 Maybe? But it did not say reprint on it. I believe they mark them reprint when they are printed from the real company. I really don’t know. I hope to learn more about it.
A real Topps that is a reprint will have the Topps copyright symbol on the back with the year the card was printed.
No lol
Hope you get your money back from eBay
@@JC-pu7gi I let the seller know and he had me send it back and gave me a full refund. He apologized and said it was not intentional. So luckily it ended up a non expensive lesson. Thank you for watching and commenting. Appreciate you!
I got beaten only once, on a 1934 Guidry Babe Ruth 🥴😖🫣🥲🥲.
@@ronaldsmith1282 Dang! That would be a rough one. I was lucky on mine that the seller gave me a refund. He said he had no idea. He had really good reviews. So I trusted it. Thank you for commenting and watching
SGC grades the centering really tough these days, I think that’s what got you on the Koufax. You might get a 6 or an 8OC from PSA, SGC is just harder on the centering once it gets past 70/30 or so. On vintage grading PSA seems to really focus on technical grade while SGC takes eye appeal more into account. SGC also seems to reward centered cards. Just my two cents. all the best, Ronnie
@@vintagecardnerd Thank you Ronnie. Check out my other video SGC submission reveal to see how Sandy did when I sent it back in. Appreciate you! Thank you and take care!