I noticed after you did your series on the tekno mt 410 other RUclips channel's did videos on it too. But they mostly show it in action, you did 12 videos showing from building it to bashing it. That's true dedication to your viewers and I really appreciate that. Thanks 😊!
Excellent series and could not agree more with you opinion. I also fly RC planes and look at those like you did with the Tekno. I can buy multiple foamies RTR’s or one large gas plane. So the decision is simple. 6 different planes for the cost of 1 large gas plane. The cars/trucks are in the same category to me!
I have owned both of these and several more from both brands. Arrma holds nothing to Tekno when you know what to fix. The first thing that has to be replaced is the chassis. Tekno made a huge mistake sending this rc out with a RACE drilled out "LOL" chassis. I bet that's what caused the diff issues. These diffs are bulletproof when built right. You dont need the Alum diffs but you do need the alum chassis from m2c. You also should swap out the battery tray to an Arrma tray. pretty ez mod. The shock caps do need the alum caps, they should have included those but didnt. Again I knew all this going into my build. Long story short I wanted my Tekno to end up being a Kraton killer since. I bought the m2c Chassis for the ET. It is longer than the stock chassis. Makes it the same length as Kraton basically. Problem I found then is to much shock travel. If I could go over again to build the best 1/8 scale basher/racer I would buy a Tekno ET48 2.0. Get m2c chassis couple things and there ya go. The way a Tekno drives is unique. When it rolls down the road through the throttle curve you can just HEAR quality in the components. When you turn it just FEEls great. Once you get the must haves you will love it. You dont need 2k. Get the Chassis of your choice. arrma battery tray. alum shock caps. and m2c shock towers, almost forgot about that. I broke so many front shock towers. So thats the trade off I see. You want a better sounding better driving, better exp car you have to upgrade a few parts. Tekno is a race company and they dont build bashers. Its a shame they dont. They could do well if they tried I bet. Their plastics are superb, you will not break many plastics. And they have a big discount if you send broke parts back. If you dont race anybody like some bashing races you may not enjoy the Tekno as much. That is really where it shines, when it does what it was engineered to do. Lay the smack down on those corners and jumps. FLY BABY FLY> You wanna beat your buddies Kraton or outacast? Get a Tekno and upgrade it. One more thing, the toughest basher I ever had was a Tekno sct410 converted to a buggy. 4s 6s lmao my god. could not break the thing without going full on into a wall. It was stupid fun, stupid fast. ATE up any 4x4 1/10 that looked at it in a race. Hands down by a mile the best rc car I ever owned. And that one didnt really require any upgrades. almost all stock. Love your channel hope my rant helps in some way bud
Totally fair review Earl. 👍 At the end of the day, regardless of whatever rc somebody drives, it may need upgraded or modded depending on how hard the owner wants to run it or how personalized they want it to be. Enjoyed every bit of this series even though I haven’t run an rc monster truck in 30 years.
You comprehensive run review does bring to light issues I personally wouldn’t have thought of ….. I guess it falls into the risk vs reward scenario when building this model ….. Always Gr8 content E …. Thank You for sharing your tech wisdom…… 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻💯
4s backflips is the way to go, i actually went to 1/8 tire on my cen reeper because staying away from bigger tires means less weight on the corners so less stress on suspension as well less weight on the drivetrain so less strain and drag, improved reliability and less likely to shatter pins and strip teeth
It's definitely a great build, but dam expensive for sure. I feel for the money you paid ally shock caps and metal diffs should have been included. I like how the softer plastics absorb impacts but it's no good for the threads on shock caps. Still a few hundred more to replace the parts and where does it stop. Looks a fun RC for sure but for me ird prefer something cheaper that bashes well enough.
Thanks for the detailed breakdown. In my opinion, from observation and minimal real world experience, I don’t see the value of kits for anything beyond learning. Everyone should buy at least one kit to build, build it and run it for the experience - to learn the mechanics, and get hands on experience of how all the systems work, and learn why some things fail. Then, after that, if someone wants a particular style RC for a particular usage, buy the individual parts, and build it from scratch, not from a kit. You’ll get exactly what you want, and in the long run, you’ll save money, because you didn’t waste the money on the throw-away parts to begin with. Buy a chassis, buy the arms you want, axles, spindles, carriers, diffs, shocks, body mounts, body, powertrain and electronics… all of it. Gather your own “kit” of bits and pieces, and put together exactly what you want out of the gate. HOWEVER - Earl, your videos going over the details of each platform give such in-depth insight to what does and doesn’t work, so thanks to you and sharing your efforts with us, we have a better idea of where to start. I really hope your efforts bring you enough return to make it continue to be worth your while, because I really enjoy all of it, from builds to repairs to speed runs to drag hits to bashes, and I especially like that your kids are often involved. Good times! Remember folks - the manufacturers do what they can to cut costs in their offerings to keep the price point within a market range. Thus, injection-molded parts wherever possible. And they get away with it because most people probably run the thing around in their backyard, not off 60-foot jumps. I’ll be choosing platforms and buying components to assemble vehicles, not buying RTR’s or kits, for the most part, except maybe for collectible type RTR’s.
Great video Earl! Was considering getting this kit but after further thought, I'm going to pass. I already have some money pits, I don't want another! Thank you for your honesty 🙏
The new corally sketer is out and same wheelbase, but the track is more narrow. So for a rtr at the near price that just this chassis costs, is this really worth it? No tires , no body even! I don't know. I'll be assembling my 410 soon. I'm not expecting to be blown away. I think this thing is overhyped and overpriced for an old design. We'll see. I'm tempted to sell my 410 before even though assembling it based on your vids on this. You're absolutely right on the fun per dollar assessment. You're the only honest reviewer not getting free cars or compensation.
Yes you don't need aluminum diff cups just put fast Eddie grease in between the gasket you do need the lightened spur gear and the aluminum shot caps when you spend the money on a kit don't scrimp on anything you going to do it do it all the way
The MT410 is an odd kit. It’s price point is low enough to attract customers looking at MT’s like the Arrma’s Outcast RTR because people do some quick math and figure they can get it running for around the same price. Once assembly begins, they see that for a small difference in price, they can upgrade individual components, like shock caps. Here is where we lose sight of the overall cost as it’s normal to focus only on the costs of each upgrade. Before we know it, we’re at the $1500-$2000 and a new question arises. Do we want to send a $2000 RC?
@@earlmoorhead5555 $479 + $300 for motor/esc/tires is ~ cost of Outcast EXB RTR. That’s what I meant by “up and running “. At least that’s how I initially did the math in my head. I’m WAY over that and it hasn’t even done it’s first run 😬
Servo radio and body ? Plus heat sink fans servo horn paint shoe goo 🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️there more replacing fluids shock caps and wheelie bar as it tend to flip ? It all adds up quickly tried showing today’s price increase has made it expensive to build a kit vs rtr my three outcast on my bench is the cost of one tekno build for me even with the 10 th anniversary add outcast 😳😳
Plus I’d spend it again as I love the tekno I just don’t want ppl thinking it’s cheaper then an rtr when it really isn’t but it’s fun to build and built your way and a fun rc 💯💯
@@earlmoorhead5555 The jury is still out for me until I run it. I will say that the Tekno does bring the additional benefits of building it yourself. You’re right about those additional costs. As a new builder I didn’t realize I needed all those additional items. You could also add some additional or higher quality tools. I probably spent $300-400 getting tools. Of course, as I also own a tool box full of Snap-On so that’s a drop in the bucket for me 😉
Wasn’t expecting that much damage after one run actually wasn’t expecting any since the Traxxas RTR’s go through repeated bashes and worse crashes and can go back out for more. The Tekno is definitely not a basher in stock form as it comes in the kit. I would still consider building one but not for bashing. I’ll keep my Traxxas RTR’s for that even though people say they’re junk 🤣🤣
@@earlmoorhead5555 I have 2 corally s and there awesome few problems just like any rc and diffs way beefier than arrmas and this new skeeter is everything the 6s cars should have been and will be...and they have adjustable links u can get
@@earlmoorhead5555 the guy that does that channel is very truthful and he'll tell you if something doesn't work right or is junk and you can tell by just looking at the truck on the videos how beefy it looks
All things considered I’ll pass on this RC … sure it’s a performer and quality is there but got several RCs that put that smiles for miles 😁😁😁 thanks for the open Review …
Corally hasn’t made it past my speed bump shock test as the steering links are all to small I won’t buy another intill this issue is solved doesn’t take much just some bigger links 👍👍
Yes for sure it is an expensive rig to build and it’s a lot of money for a basher but it’s not just any old basher it’s not some ready to run Arrma or Traxxas it’s tekno we’re talking about and you feel the difference when your driving it! There’s really no difference in building this or buying an Arrma infraction, limitless, or felony the completely rebuilding it so that it will hit 150 mph that’s an easy 2500 easy! In general this is just an expensive hobby and until you’ve sit down to build a rig like this or a speed run rig and actually kept track of how much money you’ve spent on the build before most realize how expensive it really is. Just my opinion…….
But to build a kit then realized you need to take it apart several times to upgrade it sometimes cost more in time then the parts would have 😳meaning I built this rc as a kit on my time off work knowing it’s a tekno ( best of the best ) putting expensive electronics because I felt I didn’t need to upgrade it ! Now realizing that it needs upgrades I’ll have to order parts and find time to install them before I can use it again ..and in today’s increased market value everything’s 15% more then last year but rtr still give you value fir what you get like my V2 infraction rtr 👍👍
I think the 6s backflips are to big for both trucks the 4s look a lot better imo.and Earl can u run ur battery the other way so it doesn't get into the gear
My center diff leaked right off the bat with the steel spur.in my eyes it unacceptable for a brand new rc.nobody I talked to said anything about needing aluminum diff cases.I haven’t even ran mine yet or finished building it and I already still like my exb’s better for the simple reason the Arrma comes with better standard parts.learning a lot of good stuff from these videos 🤪
Hey man I have to ask you I’ve been really looking at the Mojave exb it seems great but I don’t have a million dollars and want to know is it worth it at the end of the day , keep in mind I have an x maxx and typhon tlr
Yes I did I even explained them sitting off the side covered in grease but that ok 👍 most missed it 💯💯it comes from the gasket area when the plastics expand since it’s now putting so much power down to the wheels ⚠️⚠️
Was 19:35 in the first video showing I set up a bag to grease o-rings and explained it more in the shock video I had to double check as I did a lot off Camara since it’s soo long 👍👍
Pocketbook you keep saying pocketbook more like Swiss bank account is what you need for 410 it seems. And you're touching on the scale wars that were always talking about one company's 1/10 is not another company's 1/8 visa versa. And even myself I have said it before the one 10th scale mt410 unless they go with a version 2 will not be in my collection just like the xmax too many things needing to be upgraded OTB kit or RTR
I noticed after you did your series on the tekno mt 410 other RUclips channel's did videos on it too. But they mostly show it in action, you did 12 videos showing from building it to bashing it. That's true dedication to your viewers and I really appreciate that. Thanks 😊!
Thanks 🙏 I appreciate the support from everyone here 🙏
Excellent series and could not agree more with you opinion. I also fly RC planes and look at those like you did with the Tekno. I can buy multiple foamies RTR’s or one large gas plane. So the decision is simple. 6 different planes for the cost of 1 large gas plane. The cars/trucks are in the same category to me!
Appreciate your honesty and true findings earl. It let's everyone make their own decisions if it's worth it for them . Great video
I'm feeling a little jealous. man I'm jonesing to run. it's just too dam cold. Great vid Earl. 👍✌
I run 4 s and not 6 s for this reason. Minimal damage and still a wild cat. This is a great series 👍💯👍
Same. I run only 4s and it’s Uber durable
I have owned both of these and several more from both brands. Arrma holds nothing to Tekno when you know what to fix. The first thing that has to be replaced is the chassis. Tekno made a huge mistake sending this rc out with a RACE drilled out "LOL" chassis. I bet that's what caused the diff issues. These diffs are bulletproof when built right. You dont need the Alum diffs but you do need the alum chassis from m2c. You also should swap out the battery tray to an Arrma tray. pretty ez mod. The shock caps do need the alum caps, they should have included those but didnt. Again I knew all this going into my build. Long story short I wanted my Tekno to end up being a Kraton killer since. I bought the m2c Chassis for the ET. It is longer than the stock chassis. Makes it the same length as Kraton basically. Problem I found then is to much shock travel. If I could go over again to build the best 1/8 scale basher/racer I would buy a Tekno ET48 2.0. Get m2c chassis couple things and there ya go. The way a Tekno drives is unique. When it rolls down the road through the throttle curve you can just HEAR quality in the components. When you turn it just FEEls great. Once you get the must haves you will love it. You dont need 2k. Get the Chassis of your choice. arrma battery tray. alum shock caps. and m2c shock towers, almost forgot about that. I broke so many front shock towers. So thats the trade off I see. You want a better sounding better driving, better exp car you have to upgrade a few parts. Tekno is a race company and they dont build bashers. Its a shame they dont. They could do well if they tried I bet. Their plastics are superb, you will not break many plastics. And they have a big discount if you send broke parts back. If you dont race anybody like some bashing races you may not enjoy the Tekno as much. That is really where it shines, when it does what it was engineered to do. Lay the smack down on those corners and jumps. FLY BABY FLY> You wanna beat your buddies Kraton or outacast? Get a Tekno and upgrade it. One more thing, the toughest basher I ever had was a Tekno sct410 converted to a buggy. 4s 6s lmao my god. could not break the thing without going full on into a wall. It was stupid fun, stupid fast. ATE up any 4x4 1/10 that looked at it in a race. Hands down by a mile the best rc car I ever owned. And that one didnt really require any upgrades. almost all stock. Love your channel hope my rant helps in some way bud
Totally fair review Earl. 👍
At the end of the day, regardless of whatever rc somebody drives, it may need upgraded or modded depending on how hard the owner wants to run it or how personalized they want it to be.
Enjoyed every bit of this series even though I haven’t run an rc monster truck in 30 years.
Thanks 🙏
Great info and the zip tie thing is a great tip.
Amazing video series.. Thank you
You comprehensive run review does bring to light issues I personally wouldn’t have thought of ….. I guess it falls into the risk vs reward scenario when building this model ….. Always Gr8 content E …. Thank You for sharing your tech wisdom…… 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻💯
Thanks 🙏
Man that thing is quiet! Even in the not so windy shots. I mean you can hear it’s not a Traxxas or Arrma! 🤣 Nice one Earl. 👍👌 Thanks for sharing
Great vid. Some things I don’t agree with but it’s your opinion. Glad u enjoyed the build bro
4s backflips is the way to go, i actually went to 1/8 tire on my cen reeper because staying away from bigger tires means less weight on the corners so less stress on suspension as well less weight on the drivetrain so less strain and drag, improved reliability and less likely to shatter pins and strip teeth
Great video and thanks for posting at 3:46am
Great. Really like the slow motion.
🙏👍👍
Man, that wind was brutal! “The trench of doom…” 🤣 👍
😜
It's definitely a great build, but dam expensive for sure. I feel for the money you paid ally shock caps and metal diffs should have been included. I like how the softer plastics absorb impacts but it's no good for the threads on shock caps.
Still a few hundred more to replace the parts and where does it stop.
Looks a fun RC for sure but for me ird prefer something cheaper that bashes well enough.
What do you run now as yr basher?
What would you buy as a basher in 4- 6s?
Thanks for the detailed breakdown. In my opinion, from observation and minimal real world experience, I don’t see the value of kits for anything beyond learning. Everyone should buy at least one kit to build, build it and run it for the experience - to learn the mechanics, and get hands on experience of how all the systems work, and learn why some things fail. Then, after that, if someone wants a particular style RC for a particular usage, buy the individual parts, and build it from scratch, not from a kit. You’ll get exactly what you want, and in the long run, you’ll save money, because you didn’t waste the money on the throw-away parts to begin with. Buy a chassis, buy the arms you want, axles, spindles, carriers, diffs, shocks, body mounts, body, powertrain and electronics… all of it. Gather your own “kit” of bits and pieces, and put together exactly what you want out of the gate.
HOWEVER - Earl, your videos going over the details of each platform give such in-depth insight to what does and doesn’t work, so thanks to you and sharing your efforts with us, we have a better idea of where to start. I really hope your efforts bring you enough return to make it continue to be worth your while, because I really enjoy all of it, from builds to repairs to speed runs to drag hits to bashes, and I especially like that your kids are often involved. Good times!
Remember folks - the manufacturers do what they can to cut costs in their offerings to keep the price point within a market range. Thus, injection-molded parts wherever possible. And they get away with it because most people probably run the thing around in their backyard, not off 60-foot jumps. I’ll be choosing platforms and buying components to assemble vehicles, not buying RTR’s or kits, for the most part, except maybe for collectible type RTR’s.
Great video and analysis! I think your comments were fair and unbiased
Thanks 🙏
I want this so bad!!!! This thing is a beast!!!! 🤣🤣🤣🤣nice bash!!!!
Great video and always great info. Your opinions and facts are always worth every penny spent and saved👊👊💯💯
I have the m2c shock caps built emulsion shocks no more worries
I run most of my 6s machines on 4s dboots,they seem less clumsy cornering than the 6s size.✌️
Awsome explanation earl thumbs 👍
Awesome series on the tekno
Thanks Earl, just about to pull trigger on the mt410. After watching your vid I'm definitely gonna pass, my kraton is way better.
Earl nice honest vid man nice mt 410 u did a reall nice job explaining the cost and i hear were you are coming from stay safe and later man 👍👍
Thanks 🙏
M2C Racing has all the upgrades you need for the Mt410 including the diff cups .
Thanks 🙏
Great video Earl! Was considering getting this kit but after further thought, I'm going to pass. I already have some money pits, I don't want another! Thank you for your honesty 🙏
Missing out. Earls right about some things yes. But just can’t beat the quality of tekno and wat they have to offer
@@deontay79ify probably true, just a little too rich for my pockets ✌✌
@@sbontheswitches definitely understand. Not for everyone
Great video Earl 👍💯🛠️
The new corally sketer is out and same wheelbase, but the track is more narrow. So for a rtr at the near price that just this chassis costs, is this really worth it? No tires , no body even! I don't know. I'll be assembling my 410 soon. I'm not expecting to be blown away. I think this thing is overhyped and overpriced for an old design. We'll see. I'm tempted to sell my 410 before even though assembling it based on your vids on this. You're absolutely right on the fun per dollar assessment. You're the only honest reviewer not getting free cars or compensation.
Hard to consider a corally against a tekno but I understand what you mean 👍💯
Love the video and your opinion about all rc's 💯💯💯 We agree that it's getting ridiculously expensive to build or upgrade rc's
Yes today’s prices make me think there sometimes a better option for what each person is doing with there rc cars 👍👍
Yes you don't need aluminum diff cups just put fast Eddie grease in between the gasket you do need the lightened spur gear and the aluminum shot caps when you spend the money on a kit don't scrimp on anything you going to do it do it all the way
The pins holding the spider gears are cutting into the plastic cups already from expanding and having no washers supporting them 🤔🤔
I keep saying cup but the housing 👍👍
The MT410 is an odd kit. It’s price point is low enough to attract customers looking at MT’s like the Arrma’s Outcast RTR because people do some quick math and figure they can get it running for around the same price. Once assembly begins, they see that for a small difference in price, they can upgrade individual components, like shock caps. Here is where we lose sight of the overall cost as it’s normal to focus only on the costs of each upgrade. Before we know it, we’re at the $1500-$2000 and a new question arises. Do we want to send a $2000 RC?
At 450.00 for the kit I can’t see it being anywhere near an outcast 6s platform 🤫🤔🤔
@@earlmoorhead5555 $479 + $300 for motor/esc/tires is ~ cost of Outcast EXB RTR. That’s what I meant by “up and running “. At least that’s how I initially did the math in my head. I’m WAY over that and it hasn’t even done it’s first run 😬
Servo radio and body ? Plus heat sink fans servo horn paint shoe goo 🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️there more replacing fluids shock caps and wheelie bar as it tend to flip ? It all adds up quickly tried showing today’s price increase has made it expensive to build a kit vs rtr my three outcast on my bench is the cost of one tekno build for me even with the 10 th anniversary add outcast 😳😳
Plus I’d spend it again as I love the tekno I just don’t want ppl thinking it’s cheaper then an rtr when it really isn’t but it’s fun to build and built your way and a fun rc 💯💯
@@earlmoorhead5555 The jury is still out for me until I run it. I will say that the Tekno does bring the additional benefits of building it yourself. You’re right about those additional costs. As a new builder I didn’t realize I needed all those additional items. You could also add some additional or higher quality tools. I probably spent $300-400 getting tools. Of course, as I also own a tool box full of Snap-On so that’s a drop in the bucket for me 😉
Wasn’t expecting that much damage after one run actually wasn’t expecting any since the Traxxas RTR’s go through repeated bashes and worse crashes and can go back out for more. The Tekno is definitely not a basher in stock form as it comes in the kit. I would still consider building one but not for bashing. I’ll keep my Traxxas RTR’s for that even though people say they’re junk 🤣🤣
I think a track tekno in dirt racing around as it really handles better then any rtr I’ve run before 👍👍
@@earlmoorhead5555 that’s exactly what I was thinking perfect track R/C
Nasty terrain.. like it very much!😂
How much to do hardcore bashing, around $2500😒. -it’s true🤣
You need the m2c shock caps there pretty awesome on my kraton 6s but it also has everything they make for it on it
👍👍
Gotta get the new skeeter from corally looks amazing
Videos are deceiving but I’ll look at one and see if they fixed the steering links if there the same I’ll pass 👍👍
@@earlmoorhead5555 I have 2 corally s and there awesome few problems just like any rc and diffs way beefier than arrmas and this new skeeter is everything the 6s cars should have been and will be...and they have adjustable links u can get
@@earlmoorhead5555 the guy that does that channel is very truthful and he'll tell you if something doesn't work right or is junk and you can tell by just looking at the truck on the videos how beefy it looks
Your honest... its to much money for me... its a great truck but its the same money as the traxxas xmaxx!
Dang. Even the Kaiju doesn't break shock caps and have leaking diffs. Sad.
Yes best basher in my opinion is the original Kaiju 👍👍$500.00 all said and done with diff cup retaining disc 👍👍
All things considered I’ll pass on this RC … sure it’s a performer and quality is there but got several RCs that put that smiles for miles 😁😁😁 thanks for the open Review …
Any plans on you getting the corally sketer! Would love it see your opinion on it.🙂
Corally hasn’t made it past my speed bump shock test as the steering links are all to small I won’t buy another intill this issue is solved doesn’t take much just some bigger links 👍👍
Yes for sure it is an expensive rig to build and it’s a lot of money for a basher but it’s not just any old basher it’s not some ready to run Arrma or Traxxas it’s tekno we’re talking about and you feel the difference when your driving it! There’s really no difference in building this or buying an Arrma infraction, limitless, or felony the completely rebuilding it so that it will hit 150 mph that’s an easy 2500 easy! In general this is just an expensive hobby and until you’ve sit down to build a rig like this or a speed run rig and actually kept track of how much money you’ve spent on the build before most realize how expensive it really is. Just my opinion…….
But to build a kit then realized you need to take it apart several times to upgrade it sometimes cost more in time then the parts would have 😳meaning I built this rc as a kit on my time off work knowing it’s a tekno ( best of the best ) putting expensive electronics because I felt I didn’t need to upgrade it ! Now realizing that it needs upgrades I’ll have to order parts and find time to install them before I can use it again ..and in today’s increased market value everything’s 15% more then last year but rtr still give you value fir what you get like my V2 infraction rtr 👍👍
I would stick with the Outcast 6s... $2000 for an RC is to much for my pocket lol
Yes if your bashing it’s better in the long run 👍👍
I think the 6s backflips are to big for both trucks the 4s look a lot better imo.and Earl can u run ur battery the other way so it doesn't get into the gear
The other way is to close to the front differential and center drive shaft 👍👍
Thats 1 of the best rc trucks around,did u just get it?
Yes just built it as sooooo many comments saying it better then any rtr basher and cheaper 🤔🤔
My center diff leaked right off the bat with the steel spur.in my eyes it unacceptable for a brand new rc.nobody I talked to said anything about needing aluminum diff cases.I haven’t even ran mine yet or finished building it and I already still like my exb’s better for the simple reason the Arrma comes with better standard parts.learning a lot of good stuff from these videos 🤪
Nice earl
Hey man I have to ask you I’ve been really looking at the Mojave exb it seems great but I don’t have a million dollars and want to know is it worth it at the end of the day , keep in mind I have an x maxx and typhon tlr
It’s not a basher like an xmaxx and the ExB roller idk about the differential
Gonna just go with a rock rey or sbr 2.0 seems better choice for me too many issues with quality control with horizion
Earl your the only one with all the rcs I need to know an honest opinion before I spend big money losi sbr 2.0 or dbxle 2.0
You didn’t use the grease on the outdrives during install video. Grease o rings and out drives
Yes I did I even explained them sitting off the side covered in grease but that ok 👍 most missed it 💯💯it comes from the gasket area when the plastics expand since it’s now putting so much power down to the wheels ⚠️⚠️
Was 19:35 in the first video showing I set up a bag to grease o-rings and explained it more in the shock video I had to double check as I did a lot off Camara since it’s soo long 👍👍
Pocketbook you keep saying pocketbook more like Swiss bank account is what you need for 410 it seems. And you're touching on the scale wars that were always talking about one company's 1/10 is not another company's 1/8 visa versa. And even myself I have said it before the one 10th scale mt410 unless they go with a version 2 will not be in my collection just like the xmax too many things needing to be upgraded OTB kit or RTR
👀🤔
Why are you buying things you don't need yet?
First
Notification squad 🔥👍