Great video Justin! I have to admit, I am new to your channel and learned about you from the Ultra live feed on the xTool channel. I too am lucky enough to be playing with the Ultra but mine came super late so definitely behind the curve of video reviews being released. Keep up the great work and now that I am subscribed, I am looking forward to more great videos of yours.
Liked and subscribed. I have an Xtool M1 and the Ultra on order. I've watched many videos on laser machines where the maker says something to the effect of "Well, this is the first time I'm doing this material in this machine, so I'm going to guess at the settings and see if this huge experiment works." I appreciate your use of tests on each material to get the settings right *before* sending the big project to the machine. Great video, thanks :)
@@BitnerBuilt Just being there is huge! And you’re right, he will take the next two years to hone his craft and be first choice! Love your channel. Be well 🙏
My first laser was a 7watt diode that connect to my Shapeoko CNC router. I loved it but it was very difficult to set up a project and it took a very very long tome to engrave. I bought a 60watt CO2 laser with a 20x28 inch bed. I used it all the time. I do all kinds of projects and incorporate it into my woodworking. I do tumblers and they are pretty quick, depending on the engrave. I just ordered the F1Ultra bundle which will ship after July 31. I was hoping earlier but that's okay. I will do some coins but not many. I am exciting for it because the conveyor will allow me to do my small batch projects much quicker. Setting up will be much easier. I also like the ability to engrave into the bottom of boxes and bowls I make. Can't do that with a gantry laser. Thanks for your video.
This video has definitely helped make up my mind to finally purchase the F1 ultra. One material I've not seen anyone use is Black Acrylic. I wonder if it can engrave 2-3mm deep and cut an 8mm sheet? I can't find much info on this online
@@BitnerBuilt thanks for such a prompt reply! This is helpful and I must say your reviews + videos are by far the most detailed and practical use oriented. Thanks for the amazing work!
Thanks for including my mylar request. It went by so fast in the video though... were the edges clean, or were they a bit melty? I couldn't tell how clean they were from the video shooting through the plastic shield.
They were fairly clean (this was my 10th setting attempt 😅 but if I ran my fingers at the edge you feel some melted balling that has to be removed. The capability is there just have to dial it in so it’s cut and clean I was just trying to to get to “good” to show capability
I saw it arrived today and I’m home sat so I will get right on it! Thanks! He came in top 20 but didn’t make it this time, but he’s 13 and went against 16yr olds so we will try again in 2 years!
Thanks Jim! Ben won a gold silver and bronze. Owen didn’t make the team this time, he was going up against 16yr olds (he’s 13) for that top team but he will try again in 2 years! Good experience overall though!
@@BitnerBuilt wow that amazing Congrats Ben and amazing try Owen going up against kids 3 years older and your right it’s a great experience Congratulations to both boys 🎉🎊🇺🇸
Thanks so much! Yes did well (not the top 6 like he wanted) but he’s 13 and went against 16yr olds. He’s doubling down his training for in 2 years when he’s 16 they will have the tournament again and the winners that time go to the 2026 jr Olympics in Africa 👍
Good luck to your son! Several decades ago I was invited to the Pan Am qualifiers and competed in 2 different sport Worlds. Tell him to savor it! On to the video thank you for the information. You stated for the embossing a depth file is needed I have not heard of those what extensions is that? Thank you. New subscriber.
Thanks so much! It was quite an expierence, he didn’t make it this time but he’s 13 and went against 16yr olds so we will try again in 2 years. On the embossing file, doing something like my bitner built logo going straight down no special file needed, but doing something like the lion that changes each layer you need a file called a grayscale height map. This will tell the machine when it slices it into layers what to do each time. Now xTool showed its ai making one (that’s great, I didn’t have access to that during testing)
@@BitnerBuilt That is still awesome! And what a great experience and life lesson! thank you sir for the information. I have not used my D1 in a while and used Lightburn. If I get the Ultra I am going to have to learn xcs. I have gone down the CNC for a bit and I think the Ultra or the S1 with the 40/IR will be a good compliment. Not doing shows right now was asked to put somethings in a Maker Market booth. So thinking slate coasters and small engraved jewelry.
@@kevinrich4637 thanks! Oh that’s cool! This will work in lightburn with the rotary but the conveyor won’t be in there yet (they are working on it) but inevitably xcs will always support it better. It’s easy if you know lightburn already
I’ve ordered mine with the conveyor. I’m not sure what to do with the standard F1. Maybe that can go to the shows. I want an inexpensive large laser for cutting big projects. Suggestions appreciated.
Well that all depends on what work you do, acrylics? Larger metals? If your talking taking it to shows you going to need enclosed so bear that in mind, since your saying cutting if it’s a diode your prob wanting a 40w. You obviously have the xTool d1 and s1. If your looking for cheapo cheapo there are dozens, I do circle back to enclosures though, I won’t review any that don’t come fully enclosed anymore - the flimsy tents aren’t good enough, I questioned several manufacturers about them, they said “they should be treated as a secondary safety item and goggles should still be worn.”
Hi from Australia! Thanks for such a great video. I’ve been looking at the F1 because of he portability to take to events and fairs/markets. However, love he power, speed and batch capability of the F1 Ultra, but was concerned that I couldn’t run it off a battery bank. You’re the first person that has touched on this. Their is a distributor in Australia that sells the Jackery Explorer 1000 Pro Portable Power Station, which I would think is more than enough to run the Ultra. What do you think? Would appreciate any thoughts. Cheers.
Thanks so much! Yes the jackery would be more than capable to run this machine (I tested it the other day on something comparable) I do think the explorer 1000 would satisfy your need for this machine for an entire event, barring what else your attaching to it (laptop would be fine) I have to say I love the ultra, I haven’t touched the standard F1 since that came in. And it definitely is easily portable to an event but of course there is a huge price difference, there! I actually just went and visited a live event today with three woodworkers there, one rocking his xTool. He was doing well! Good luck on your ventures!
@@BitnerBuilt Thanks so much for taking the time to respond. I actually found another video with a guy who tested the F1 Ultra on a 500W system but was relying on portable solar panels to keep it charged. I would be more comfortable with 1000W. Thanks again for your videos. Very informative. Cheers from Australia! 😊
I cut 1/4 wood out in the testing section very quick one pass. I had my reservations because galvo doesn’t use air assist but it cuts well. If your cutting wood or anything high smoke, there is a button to avoid smoke, make sure to check that, it will jump around so the smoke doesn’t obstruct the lasers view of the material
Thanks! I believe I showed it cutting through an aluminum business card in the video. Those business cards are .007 in thickness. . This machine is “capable” of completing that task but it would take some time. If it’s a mission critical thing, you can always send me a piece to do a test on it and I can let you know exact specs.
@@BitnerBuilt It would be great if I could send a couple of small pieces to try cutting. Can I email you to get your mailing address or another secure way to message you?
Fantastic video! I just wonder why the times are so high for all that fibre stuff… everyone says it’s fast but half an hour for a small multicolour titanium is slow or not? Just have a 40watt diode laser and never have such long laser sessions… is it the metal stuff? There are fibre lasers with 60 watt for the same prize one the market. Three times faster?
It’s all about the material in the settings, on a more expensive fiber, Laser for certain items you’d still be running it at 20% power but 50% on this machine because you might cause warping due to heat etc, on other materials yes, a more powerful lasers is going to be able to remove more material in each pass, thus making a faster engraving. When it comes to colorizing metals, a mop, fiber, Laser is going to be your best option, because you’re able to change the frequency at a greater range in order to achieve that oxidization, so there are specifically two things that a higher powered fiber Laser would do better than this machine which is colorizing metals and if you’re doing very deep engraving, it will do it faster, but this is not the same relation that you would see with a diode laser. With a dialed Laser in order to cut thick wood, you need a more powerful laser because running additional passes is just going to charge the wood at a certain point. This is not the case with metals you’re going to get the final results. It’s just a question of how many passes
@@BitnerBuilt thank you so much for your answer.this helps me alot... So I have to make a decision. Mopa with no extras autofocus and camera or this one. Hard one... Colors on metall look so good what I have seen from some videos but engraving on a curved surface is pretty awesome...
I have a great friend that uses X-Tool Fiber Optic 50w Laser. He takes his machine to every event around Mobile and has a permanent stall at the local Fleamarket. He engraves tumblers and cuts customized coins and other items. He has found a unique way for protecting that fiber cable. *FIRST, He found the correct ID of a pool noodle that with house his fiber cable comfortably and securely. *SECOND, He found a piece of PVC tubing that has the correct ID of the pool noodle's OD. *Third, He puts slow curing epoxy on the outside of the pool noodle then inserts(+) it inside the PVC tube, which has been cut two inches longer than that pool noodle to allow for padded PVC caps to be placed on the ends of the PVC tube. Works like a charm!! (*) He places a strong string through the PVC tube and pool noodle, with a small block of wood tied to the end of string, to allow easier insertion of the pool noodle.
Well hey good on him! He obviously did all of that because it’s highly delicate so kinda reiterates the point, you either need to hard core protect it to transport it safely or you have a unit like this that is already easily portable
Thanks for this informative video. The question I have concerns plastics with PVC. One should never laser cut material containing PVC, but what about marking such as you did (assuming it contains PVC)? Is that safe to do, i.e. does not cause chlorine to escape?
PVC is Polyvinyl Chloride, the AirPods cases I was sent are laser safe polycarbonate. Here are some “safe” plastics (some put off bad fumes but not the hydrochloric acid you’re thinking of) Acrylic: Acrylic is one of the best plastics for laser cutting due to its ability to produce clean, polished edges and its compatibility with both laser cutting and engraving. Acrylic is available in various colors, thicknesses, and finishes, making it a versatile choice for a wide range of applications. Polycarbonate: Polycarbonate is another popular choice for laser cutting, as it is a strong and durable material that can withstand high temperatures. However, it is essential to use a low-power laser when cutting polycarbonate, as higher power settings can cause the edges to become discolored or warped. PETG: PETG is a type of polyester that is also suitable for laser cutting. It is known for its clarity, durability, and resistance to chemicals. PETG can also be easily cut and engraved using a laser, making it an ideal choice for creating intricate designs and patterns. Polyethylene: Polyethylene is a versatile and lightweight plastic that can be laser cut. However, it is important to note that polyethylene can produce toxic fumes when cut with a laser, so proper ventilation and safety precautions are necessary.
@@BitnerBuilt 👍👍Thank you for clarifying. As I started with laser cutting & engraving, most videos and other internet resources warned about the chlorine in PVC and pointed out to make sure to only use laser safe materials. Therefore I am always very careful in choosing the material I am cutting or engraving. In many F1 Ultra reviews the AirPod cases are used as an example for lasering plastic, I am glad to hear it these are made of polycarbonate. I feel that such new product reviews may benefit from adding a warning to only cut and engrave laser safe materials. Especially when reviewing a new type of product (here a combined fiber/diode laser) that may attract viewers new to lasers. Being careful with choosing materials, your answer made me look again into what materials are laser safe and I found that the numbers in the recycling symbols (often found on plastic products) indicate the type of plastic. For PVC that is 3. Just another example why I like watching your videos.
Very true! Now Mike said there’s another option we didn’t test which was to de-focus and raise the machine higher, it will reach more but different settings needed and we didn’t have time to try so we will play with that when I get back.
Great video!! Would the F1 non ultra still be a good fit for a hobbyist/gift giver or is the extra power and size worth saving up for? Was about to pull the trigger on the F1 but saw they had released the Ultra and not sure now. I see all the great stuff that the F1 mini can make and wonder if that is good enough. Thanks
@BitnerBuilt right. I have the f1 as well. Debating the ultra ir a traditional fiber. not sure how much deep engraving and cutting would be needed for me...but up in the air
That third bottle looks like the moon is oval. On my test I had a circle that was stretched as well. The first and second bottles look like they have perfect circles. Is this because of the speed?
no that was user error, that third bottle is a different diameter and I just stretched the image to fit due to the height constraint that's why its an oval, was just a tester so wants being as diligent as I should be lol
Hi, thanks for making the video. How do you need to prep the files for good embossing? I know you were talking about number of layers but I am not familiar with the number of layers in xcs. What do you mean by layers on the coins?
So when you do an embossing it’s going to do a pass for each layer as it goes deeper and deeper into the material. You need a “grayscale height map” of what you want to engrave. The lion pic was pure white at the nose of the lion and then it shifts to gray on the fur and then black (deepest) on the background. When you set the setting of the file it asks how many layers you want to slice this pic into (how deep and detailed you want it) 256 layers is the max. Obviously more layers = deeper = longer engrave time. You will have the settings for number of layers and then it will ask you if you want to move the laser lower every xyz number of layers (this keeps the power strong as it gets further away)
@@BitnerBuilt thanks! That is very helpful info! I will look for grayscale height map app.if you have any app recommendations, I am interested in hearing them.
@@BitnerBuiltLuckily I only did a 45min challenge coin. I ran a few more of those junky coins to be sure. Glad I still had some legit solid brass coins left for the embossing
@@TripodsGarageyea honestly the 30min coins look great for 90% of projects, the deep ones are cool but can’t see doing that often with this one. Zinc coins did well as well
Hmmm that’s a good one, not sure let me see if I can find some to test on or if you need a specific thing tested your more than welcome to send it over and I’ll test it out
I believe Delrin fumes are very toxic. Better use a superb exhaust system. I burned Delrin with a hot metal rod once, (don't ask), the fumes were horrific. Burned my eyes and it felt like they were scorching my lungs.
@29:01 you said it too 1:07 hours to run that cup. What would you charge for that? I just ordered my ultra today and I would think I'd have to get at least $70 for a cup like that. Guidance please?
So that’s the age old impossible question that’s different for every person : 1: whats your time worth 2: how many they ordering 3: whats being engraved 4: whats the cost of each blank - cover your costs and assign a multiple based on what your times worth Then of course are people willing to pay that number. That same cup can be done in 15min -20min when nailing down the settings.
The bottom plate does not open like the f1 so no this one stays flat. Now that being said it’s 6 screws on the bottom sooo I’m sure some industries people will be modding this
I just did a post on this at the link below, answers yes but results vary based on rocks facebook.com/groups/xtoolf1/permalink/1187426538948255/?mibextid=W9rl1R
My XCS software will only let me do 10 passes at once (per process). If you do 150 passes, are you simply redoing the process 15 times, or is there a setting to allow more passes per process?
That was only the case in early versions of the current software, make sure you update your software. It should allow you to do past 10 now. I just did a 300 round pass on a project the other day with the ultra.
@BitnerBuilt Oh man, you're making me hesitant about clicking the button on a 50w JPT !!! But I have a question -- I'm doing primarily metal work, mostly coins. And I'm not seeing anyone talk about lenses. Since I'll be doing coins between 32mm and 70mm, I've been told I should have a lens like a 70mm. Are there no differences in lenses when using an X-tool? And it still gets detail like the lion? I'm a hobbyist, not a pro and will only be making coins for friends and gifts. But I'll definitely be using depth maps in Lightburn and am looking to do things like your lion coin.
So the lens unscrews easily but to my knowledge there are currently not any other lenses for this machine. It’s a great machine and I’m testing the conveyor now that’s awesome but if you’re looking to do deep coins all the time you might be served with the more powerful machine. If your looking for that ability as well as a lot of other versatility like having a diode in it as well, then this is a solid fit
@@BitnerBuilt what was the diameter of the coin you engraved the lion on? (And thanks so much for this video and fast reply. I’m definitely going to subscribe!)
Oh cool good to know, yea that was just a test file on a first go test. Since a lot of people have gotten their hands on the machine now there’s been some really cool designs out there on Facebook.
Sorry, I didn’t test that in the video but yes, it can cut leather with both the diode and fiber, laser, leather has a lot of different variables settings, and how clean that would be will depend on the type of leather and how it’s cured
Hi, So I'm wondering about your claim that it "super accurate": you do this test with the very small sticks. And it shows on the screen all the text items located on the wooden sticks. yet when you briefly film the result, it appears to me that at least two seem not good: the one on the right side: the letter "i" is not on the stick but on the plate underneath. And the lower right stick: font seems to be too low. Now this is obviously in the corners of the working area, so if the system works better in the center (as it seems to) then that can be excused. The same result is visible in your coin embossing tests: from what I can tell on screen the "embossed" round areasdo not seem to be centered. Did you position those manually or was that the AI alignment function? (Does that feature even work if you don't feed the material via the conveyor belt)?
No, it’s extremely accurate, you should look at my video on the Wecreat vision. I run the same test on every laser that I review now. In that one we create sponsored the video and I ended up saying don’t buy the machine because it was absolutely horrible on that stick test. That’s because it’s a fish eye lenses in that machine. The f1 intro doesn’t use a fish (high range of motion on a small area) so your getting a precise result
Good luck to your son! You must be so proud!!!
Oh crazy proud!
This is really helpful and appreciate the interview portion. Weighing the F1 vs the Ultra for my hat bar business. This is great info
Glad it was helpful!
Very good video, when mine comes in i will for sure refer back to this for settings. Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Friggin' GREAT video. Thank you for all you do!
Thanks! Appreciate that!
Great video Justin! I have to admit, I am new to your channel and learned about you from the Ultra live feed on the xTool channel. I too am lucky enough to be playing with the Ultra but mine came super late so definitely behind the curve of video reviews being released. Keep up the great work and now that I am subscribed, I am looking forward to more great videos of yours.
Thanks Monkey Woodworks! Have fun with it, it is a really versatile machine! I will check out the channel!
Liked and subscribed. I have an Xtool M1 and the Ultra on order. I've watched many videos on laser machines where the maker says something to the effect of "Well, this is the first time I'm doing this material in this machine, so I'm going to guess at the settings and see if this huge experiment works." I appreciate your use of tests on each material to get the settings right *before* sending the big project to the machine. Great video, thanks :)
Thanks! Yes I have nightmares about material grids now 😂
Congratulations for your Son and the Family 🎉
Thanks so much! You didn’t make it this time, but it was an honor to try, he’ll work hard and make it in two years when the next trial is
@@BitnerBuilt Just being there is huge! And you’re right, he will take the next two years to hone his craft and be first choice!
Love your channel. Be well 🙏
My first laser was a 7watt diode that connect to my Shapeoko CNC router. I loved it but it was very difficult to set up a project and it took a very very long tome to engrave. I bought a 60watt CO2 laser with a 20x28 inch bed. I used it all the time. I do all kinds of projects and incorporate it into my woodworking. I do tumblers and they are pretty quick, depending on the engrave. I just ordered the F1Ultra bundle which will ship after July 31. I was hoping earlier but that's okay. I will do some coins but not many. I am exciting for it because the conveyor will allow me to do my small batch projects much quicker. Setting up will be much easier. I also like the ability to engrave into the bottom of boxes and bowls I make. Can't do that with a gantry laser. Thanks for your video.
Oh that’s great, yes I had a similar progression which makes you value good accurate camera and the conveyor!
This video has definitely helped make up my mind to finally purchase the F1 ultra. One material I've not seen anyone use is Black Acrylic. I wonder if it can engrave 2-3mm deep and cut an 8mm sheet? I can't find much info on this online
Black acrylic is actually able to be cut and engraved by diode or co2 interestingly enough, shouldn’t be a problem. It can cut 12mm
@@BitnerBuilt thanks for such a prompt reply! This is helpful and I must say your reviews + videos are by far the most detailed and practical use oriented. Thanks for the amazing work!
Thanks for including my mylar request. It went by so fast in the video though... were the edges clean, or were they a bit melty? I couldn't tell how clean they were from the video shooting through the plastic shield.
They were fairly clean (this was my 10th setting attempt 😅 but if I ran my fingers at the edge you feel some melted balling that has to be removed. The capability is there just have to dial it in so it’s cut and clean I was just trying to to get to “good” to show capability
@@BitnerBuilt thanks. I appreciate it.
Can't wait to see your video with the conveyor! Good luck to your son!
I saw it arrived today and I’m home sat so I will get right on it! Thanks! He came in top 20 but didn’t make it this time, but he’s 13 and went against 16yr olds so we will try again in 2 years!
great info! Hope your son did well!!
Great video as always Justin such a cool machine. Best of luck to your son wishing him the best at his tryouts. 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
Thanks Jim! Ben won a gold silver and bronze. Owen didn’t make the team this time, he was going up against 16yr olds (he’s 13) for that top team but he will try again in 2 years! Good experience overall though!
@@BitnerBuilt wow that amazing Congrats Ben and amazing try Owen going up against kids 3 years older and your right it’s a great experience Congratulations to both boys 🎉🎊🇺🇸
Hope your son did great and was safe too. great vid
Thanks so much! Yes did well (not the top 6 like he wanted) but he’s 13 and went against 16yr olds. He’s doubling down his training for in 2 years when he’s 16 they will have the tournament again and the winners that time go to the 2026 jr Olympics in Africa 👍
So helpful. Thank you and good luck to your son
Thank you so much!
Good luck to your son! Several decades ago I was invited to the Pan Am qualifiers and competed in 2 different sport Worlds. Tell him to savor it!
On to the video thank you for the information. You stated for the embossing a depth file is needed I have not heard of those what extensions is that? Thank you. New subscriber.
Thanks so much! It was quite an expierence, he didn’t make it this time but he’s 13 and went against 16yr olds so we will try again in 2 years. On the embossing file, doing something like my bitner built logo going straight down no special file needed, but doing something like the lion that changes each layer you need a file called a grayscale height map. This will tell the machine when it slices it into layers what to do each time. Now xTool showed its ai making one (that’s great, I didn’t have access to that during testing)
@@BitnerBuilt That is still awesome! And what a great experience and life lesson! thank you sir for the information. I have not used my D1 in a while and used Lightburn. If I get the Ultra I am going to have to learn xcs. I have gone down the CNC for a bit and I think the Ultra or the S1 with the 40/IR will be a good compliment. Not doing shows right now was asked to put somethings in a Maker Market booth. So thinking slate coasters and small engraved jewelry.
@@kevinrich4637 thanks! Oh that’s cool! This will work in lightburn with the rotary but the conveyor won’t be in there yet (they are working on it) but inevitably xcs will always support it better. It’s easy if you know lightburn already
I’ve ordered mine with the conveyor. I’m not sure what to do with the standard F1. Maybe that can go to the shows. I want an inexpensive large laser for cutting big projects. Suggestions appreciated.
Well that all depends on what work you do, acrylics? Larger metals? If your talking taking it to shows you going to need enclosed so bear that in mind, since your saying cutting if it’s a diode your prob wanting a 40w. You obviously have the xTool d1 and s1. If your looking for cheapo cheapo there are dozens, I do circle back to enclosures though, I won’t review any that don’t come fully enclosed anymore - the flimsy tents aren’t good enough, I questioned several manufacturers about them, they said “they should be treated as a secondary safety item and goggles should still be worn.”
Hi from Australia! Thanks for such a great video. I’ve been looking at the F1 because of he portability to take to events and fairs/markets. However, love he power, speed and batch capability of the F1 Ultra, but was concerned that I couldn’t run it off a battery bank. You’re the first person that has touched on this. Their is a distributor in Australia that sells the Jackery Explorer 1000 Pro Portable Power Station, which I would think is more than enough to run the Ultra. What do you think? Would appreciate any thoughts. Cheers.
Thanks so much! Yes the jackery would be more than capable to run this machine (I tested it the other day on something comparable) I do think the explorer 1000 would satisfy your need for this machine for an entire event, barring what else your attaching to it (laptop would be fine) I have to say I love the ultra, I haven’t touched the standard F1 since that came in. And it definitely is easily portable to an event but of course there is a huge price difference, there! I actually just went and visited a live event today with three woodworkers there, one rocking his xTool. He was doing well! Good luck on your ventures!
@@BitnerBuilt Thanks so much for taking the time to respond. I actually found another video with a guy who tested the F1 Ultra on a 500W system but was relying on portable solar panels to keep it charged. I would be more comfortable with 1000W. Thanks again for your videos. Very informative. Cheers from Australia! 😊
How does it work for light cutting? Like 1/8 or 1/4 wood?
I cut 1/4 wood out in the testing section very quick one pass. I had my reservations because galvo doesn’t use air assist but it cuts well. If your cutting wood or anything high smoke, there is a button to avoid smoke, make sure to check that, it will jump around so the smoke doesn’t obstruct the lasers view of the material
Great review, thank you. I’d like to be able to cut out blanks and engrave 0.025” T6061 aluminum. Would the F1 ultra do that?
Thanks! I believe I showed it cutting through an aluminum business card in the video. Those business cards are .007 in thickness. . This machine is “capable” of completing that task but it would take some time. If it’s a mission critical thing, you can always send me a piece to do a test on it and I can let you know exact specs.
@@BitnerBuilt It would be great if I could send a couple of small pieces to try cutting. Can I email you to get your mailing address or another secure way to message you?
@@FLiar3 sure email me at justin@bitnerbuilt.com
Fantastic video! I just wonder why the times are so high for all that fibre stuff… everyone says it’s fast but half an hour for a small multicolour titanium is slow or not? Just have a 40watt diode laser and never have such long laser sessions… is it the metal stuff? There are fibre lasers with 60 watt for the same prize one the market. Three times faster?
It’s all about the material in the settings, on a more expensive fiber, Laser for certain items you’d still be running it at 20% power but 50% on this machine because you might cause warping due to heat etc, on other materials yes, a more powerful lasers is going to be able to remove more material in each pass, thus making a faster engraving. When it comes to colorizing metals, a mop, fiber, Laser is going to be your best option, because you’re able to change the frequency at a greater range in order to achieve that oxidization, so there are specifically two things that a higher powered fiber Laser would do better than this machine which is colorizing metals and if you’re doing very deep engraving, it will do it faster, but this is not the same relation that you would see with a diode laser. With a dialed Laser in order to cut thick wood, you need a more powerful laser because running additional passes is just going to charge the wood at a certain point. This is not the case with metals you’re going to get the final results. It’s just a question of how many passes
@@BitnerBuilt thank you so much for your answer.this helps me alot... So I have to make a decision. Mopa with no extras autofocus and camera or this one. Hard one... Colors on metall look so good what I have seen from some videos but engraving on a curved surface is pretty awesome...
If it doesn't come out dark enough when finished, if left in the same spot, can you make it do another pass to darken it?
Yes definitely you can, I pulled it thinking it would clean up with LA and a magic eraser but no, that’s all just the testing process tho!
Nice first video review of F1 ultra!
Thanks!
I have a great friend that uses X-Tool Fiber Optic 50w Laser. He takes his machine to every event around Mobile and has a permanent stall at the local Fleamarket. He engraves tumblers and cuts customized coins and other items. He has found a unique way for protecting that fiber cable.
*FIRST, He found the correct ID of a pool noodle that with house his fiber cable comfortably and securely.
*SECOND, He found a piece of PVC tubing that has the correct ID of the pool noodle's OD.
*Third, He puts slow curing epoxy on the outside of the pool noodle then inserts(+) it inside the PVC tube, which has been cut two inches longer than that pool noodle to allow for padded PVC caps to be placed on the ends of the PVC tube.
Works like a charm!!
(*) He places a strong string through the PVC tube and pool noodle, with a small block of wood tied to the end of string, to allow easier insertion of the pool noodle.
Well hey good on him! He obviously did all of that because it’s highly delicate so kinda reiterates the point, you either need to hard core protect it to transport it safely or you have a unit like this that is already easily portable
Thanks for this informative video.
The question I have concerns plastics with PVC. One should never laser cut material containing PVC, but what about marking such as you did (assuming it contains PVC)?
Is that safe to do, i.e. does not cause chlorine to escape?
PVC is Polyvinyl Chloride, the AirPods cases I was sent are laser safe polycarbonate. Here are some “safe” plastics (some put off bad fumes but not the hydrochloric acid you’re thinking of) Acrylic: Acrylic is one of the best plastics for laser cutting due to its ability to produce clean, polished edges and its compatibility with both laser cutting and engraving. Acrylic is available in various colors, thicknesses, and finishes, making it a versatile choice for a wide range of applications.
Polycarbonate: Polycarbonate is another popular choice for laser cutting, as it is a strong and durable material that can withstand high temperatures. However, it is essential to use a low-power laser when cutting polycarbonate, as higher power settings can cause the edges to become discolored or warped.
PETG: PETG is a type of polyester that is also suitable for laser cutting. It is known for its clarity, durability, and resistance to chemicals. PETG can also be easily cut and engraved using a laser, making it an ideal choice for creating intricate designs and patterns.
Polyethylene: Polyethylene is a versatile and lightweight plastic that can be laser cut. However, it is important to note that polyethylene can produce toxic fumes when cut with a laser, so proper ventilation and safety precautions are necessary.
@@BitnerBuilt 👍👍Thank you for clarifying. As I started with laser cutting & engraving, most videos and other internet resources warned about the chlorine in PVC and pointed out to make sure to only use laser safe materials. Therefore I am always very careful in choosing the material I am cutting or engraving.
In many F1 Ultra reviews the AirPod cases are used as an example for lasering plastic, I am glad to hear it these are made of polycarbonate. I feel that such new product reviews may benefit from adding a warning to only cut and engrave laser safe materials. Especially when reviewing a new type of product (here a combined fiber/diode laser) that may attract viewers new to lasers.
Being careful with choosing materials, your answer made me look again into what materials are laser safe and I found that the numbers in the recycling symbols (often found on plastic products) indicate the type of plastic. For PVC that is 3.
Just another example why I like watching your videos.
Great comments nice review. keep it up brother
Thanks so much!
What would be cool for Mike's full wrap would be the ability to use the conveyor and the RA2 in conjunction to finish that last half inch to inch.
Very true! Now Mike said there’s another option we didn’t test which was to de-focus and raise the machine higher, it will reach more but different settings needed and we didn’t have time to try so we will play with that when I get back.
Great video!! Would the F1 non ultra still be a good fit for a hobbyist/gift giver or is the extra power and size worth saving up for? Was about to pull the trigger on the F1 but saw they had released the Ultra and not sure now. I see all the great stuff that the F1 mini can make and wonder if that is good enough. Thanks
So if it’s just for gifts save your money and buy the f1 it’s a very capable small machine.
@@BitnerBuilt Thank you very much for your reply.
Did that say 20,000 passes for the brass cut at 11:54 ?!?
Yes it did, it’s a galvo however a pass is seconds to complete it’s not like on a gantry laser
@BitnerBuilt right. I have the f1 as well. Debating the ultra ir a traditional fiber. not sure how much deep engraving and cutting would be needed for me...but up in the air
That third bottle looks like the moon is oval. On my test I had a circle that was stretched as well. The first and second bottles look like they have perfect circles. Is this because of the speed?
no that was user error, that third bottle is a different diameter and I just stretched the image to fit due to the height constraint that's why its an oval, was just a tester so wants being as diligent as I should be lol
Hi, thanks for making the video. How do you need to prep the files for good embossing? I know you were talking about number of layers but I am not familiar with the number of layers in xcs. What do you mean by layers on the coins?
So when you do an embossing it’s going to do a pass for each layer as it goes deeper and deeper into the material. You need a “grayscale height map” of what you want to engrave. The lion pic was pure white at the nose of the lion and then it shifts to gray on the fur and then black (deepest) on the background. When you set the setting of the file it asks how many layers you want to slice this pic into (how deep and detailed you want it) 256 layers is the max. Obviously more layers = deeper = longer engrave time. You will have the settings for number of layers and then it will ask you if you want to move the laser lower every xyz number of layers (this keeps the power strong as it gets further away)
@@BitnerBuilt thanks! That is very helpful info! I will look for grayscale height map app.if you have any app recommendations, I am interested in hearing them.
You’re the best. Such a neat machine
Thanks! Yea lots of fun!
Great review! See that you mentioned like I did about not to use junky plated coins 😂.
Yea 😅 that was not a happy surprise after a 4hr engrave.
@@BitnerBuiltLuckily I only did a 45min challenge coin. I ran a few more of those junky coins to be sure. Glad I still had some legit solid brass coins left for the embossing
@@TripodsGarageyea honestly the 30min coins look great for 90% of projects, the deep ones are cool but can’t see doing that often with this one. Zinc coins did well as well
Do you think a Delrin or Nylon block could be embossed to maybe to molds for repoussé on soft metals or clay reliefs, especially metal clay?
Hmmm that’s a good one, not sure let me see if I can find some to test on or if you need a specific thing tested your more than welcome to send it over and I’ll test it out
I believe Delrin fumes are very toxic. Better use a superb exhaust system. I burned Delrin with a hot metal rod once, (don't ask), the fumes were horrific. Burned my eyes and it felt like they were scorching my lungs.
@@doen.8724 I didn’t know that. Thank you.
@@doen.8724ooo thanks for the heads up on that one!
@29:01 you said it too 1:07 hours to run that cup. What would you charge for that? I just ordered my ultra today and I would think I'd have to get at least $70 for a cup like that. Guidance please?
So that’s the age old impossible question that’s different for every person : 1: whats your time worth
2: how many they ordering
3: whats being engraved
4: whats the cost of each blank
- cover your costs and assign a multiple based on what your times worth
Then of course are people willing to pay that number. That same cup can be done in 15min -20min when nailing down the settings.
Can you angle it like you can the regular f1? Like if you wanted to engrave on a wall or something bigger, vertical?
The bottom plate does not open like the f1 so no this one stays flat. Now that being said it’s 6 screws on the bottom sooo I’m sure some industries people will be modding this
@@BitnerBuilt ok, thank you!
do you think I could engrave text into rocks? feldspar, quartzite and such, 0.2mm depth
I just did a post on this at the link below, answers yes but results vary based on rocks facebook.com/groups/xtoolf1/permalink/1187426538948255/?mibextid=W9rl1R
My XCS software will only let me do 10 passes at once (per process). If you do 150 passes, are you simply redoing the process 15 times, or is there a setting to allow more passes per process?
That was only the case in early versions of the current software, make sure you update your software. It should allow you to do past 10 now. I just did a 300 round pass on a project the other day with the ultra.
@BitnerBuilt thanks! I just got the machine and I'm still figuring it all out.
@BitnerBuilt Oh man, you're making me hesitant about clicking the button on a 50w JPT !!! But I have a question -- I'm doing primarily metal work, mostly coins. And I'm not seeing anyone talk about lenses. Since I'll be doing coins between 32mm and 70mm, I've been told I should have a lens like a 70mm. Are there no differences in lenses when using an X-tool? And it still gets detail like the lion? I'm a hobbyist, not a pro and will only be making coins for friends and gifts. But I'll definitely be using depth maps in Lightburn and am looking to do things like your lion coin.
So the lens unscrews easily but to my knowledge there are currently not any other lenses for this machine. It’s a great machine and I’m testing the conveyor now that’s awesome but if you’re looking to do deep coins all the time you might be served with the more powerful machine. If your looking for that ability as well as a lot of other versatility like having a diode in it as well, then this is a solid fit
@@BitnerBuilt what was the diameter of the coin you engraved the lion on? (And thanks so much for this video and fast reply. I’m definitely going to subscribe!)
@@mdemarco6695 thanks they were 1.5” coins
at 15.36 the dragon is a copy of a dragon on an Australian pure gold coin. The actual coin is incredibly beautiful.
Oh cool good to know, yea that was just a test file on a first go test. Since a lot of people have gotten their hands on the machine now there’s been some really cool designs out there on Facebook.
Love everything about this and I think your channel is dynamite. I love how you told us what coin works best with the laser. Can’t wait to see more.
Thanks!
Nice review
Thanks!
I just checked on the x-tool website and it says the F1 ultra is lightburn compatable
Yes it is however not all features (atleast that’s how it was at release)
Unless I missed it, does this cut leather?
Sorry, I didn’t test that in the video but yes, it can cut leather with both the diode and fiber, laser, leather has a lot of different variables settings, and how clean that would be will depend on the type of leather and how it’s cured
Can the F1 cut sterling silver ?
Unfortunately I don’t have any of that to try at the moment so unsure
Hi,
So I'm wondering about your claim that it "super accurate": you do this test with the very small sticks. And it shows on the screen all the text items located on the wooden sticks.
yet when you briefly film the result, it appears to me that at least two seem not good: the one on the right side: the letter "i" is not on the stick but on the plate underneath. And the lower right stick: font seems to be too low.
Now this is obviously in the corners of the working area, so if the system works better in the center (as it seems to) then that can be excused.
The same result is visible in your coin embossing tests: from what I can tell on screen the "embossed" round areasdo not seem to be centered. Did you position those manually or was that the AI alignment function? (Does that feature even work if you don't feed the material via the conveyor belt)?
No, it’s extremely accurate, you should look at my video on the Wecreat vision. I run the same test on every laser that I review now. In that one we create sponsored the video and I ended up saying don’t buy the machine because it was absolutely horrible on that stick test. That’s because it’s a fish eye lenses in that machine. The f1 intro doesn’t use a fish (high range of motion on a small area) so your getting a precise result
HIGHLY PORTABLE AND HIGHLY EXPENSIVE.
Yes to both but it is a really nice machine, it’s transitioned to my primary laser honestly
✌️