The problem here is that the sub out is “pre-fader” and should be “post-fader”. First, understand that I’m a pro audio guy who mixes concerts for a living and set up very complex PA systems all the time. So think of the volume knob as a rotary fader, which in effect a fader on a mixer is a linear potentiometer instead of rotary. Check. Now any controls on that channel will be pre or post fader. Some things we want to be set pre fader, like sending a signal to another zone where we want that volume to stay the same regardless of fader position, AKA pre-fader. Post-fader simply means that whatever signal you’re sending out is dependent on the fader position, AKA post-fader. Sometimes we put our subs output on an aux instead of it just being in with the main crossover for the PA. You would want that send for the sub to be post-fader, otherwise when you pull the fader on the kick drum or bass channel the subs are still going while the rest of the PA is getting quieter, same problem as with this head unit. Simply having an outboard volume control does not fix the problem. I mean, yeah, it’s a solution, if you call having to continuously fiddle with controls to get properly balanced sound a “solution”, then stop reading here and go about your business. But the subwoofer output should by default “follow” the master volume knob, or post-volume(fader), and certainly not pre-fader. In fact, in car stereos, I can’t think of a single reason why you’d want anything to be pre-fader. Yes, there should be a master volume control for the subs, but that control should “follow” the master for the rest of the stereo, namely the main L&R outs, in this case RCA line level. If you want an external volume control for the subs, fine, and it might even be good because of the massive differences in mastering of today’s music. I can tell when tracks are recorded, mixed, or mastered by someone who knows what they’re doing or not just by listening to the track. If there’s tins of bass or tons of “s” like hi-hats and the esses in a voice, that tells me that their control monitors were high end deficient, so they made up for it in the mix or master using a poor excuse for a reference as their, well, reference. Then when that track is played through a proper flat response 20hz-20khz sound system, the highs are excessive. Same with bass. But here’s an opposite example. Let’s say the bass is lacking on the track released to the public. That means the guys in the studio got fat and happy with subs which were set too loud as their reference, thereby putting all the bass in a spot which sounded good on that monitor system, yet when played back through a correctly eq’d rig, the bass is lacking. ATOTO, listen up, fox the pro, it’s as simple as an update to the OS which theoretically could be emailed to customers with an interface to load the correct OS setup into the unit, requiring less returns and more happy customers and maybe even making a name for yourselves to put you right on top. The foundation is obviously there. People LOVE THE UNITS! I’ve read dozens of reviews, and I’m about to buy one for my Magnum and one for my Suburban so I can have Bluetooth that will start playback right where I left off when I got out and also have a backup camera for hitching up the trailer and to keep from flattening morons who just HAVE to walk behind a vehicle which is backing up, bright white reverse lights and all. I’m about to put cut-outs in both vehicles just for that, so I can just jab the throttle in Park or neutral and scare the shit out of the idiots who go through life oblivious to what’s going on around them. Entitled? More like entitled to get the hell out my way! People can be so stupid, you gotta wonder how they tie their shoes, brush their teeth, even get dressed in the morn, and then live to be 30, 40, 70 years old. Oh, yeah, their mom’s still do all that for them, that’s how. Wow.
I've had the unit for about a year and a half and immediately noticed the subpar sub controls especially coming from the well thought out Pioneer headunits. I paid $130 for the unit after a lightning deal so I'll live with it and its other great features. I did not realize until watching your video that sub volume was set according to main volume setting in "manual mode". Then once the volume is increased from 0 to 1 the bass kicks in immediately (no subtle increase based on main volume as it should be). My other gripe is that I haven't figured out how to change main player interface colors (bluetooth, aux, usb, sd )from magenta to something else. Good video!
I had the same problem with the sub output. So I ran the manual wired remote for the sub so I could just reach down by my seat and turn the dial up and down to change the sub level and it made a huge difference.
Did you ever try just using the regular stereo preouts and adjusting the level on the amp till it sounds fine? Instead of using the subwoofer rca jack? Use one of the rear or front? Does the volume stay consistent when used that way?
What.? Learn how to adjust a amp.. my stereo sounds right. Plus this is a Android head unit. Of course your not going to be able to adjust fine tuning without a pre EQ.
I have the A6 Pro (with buttons), and while the subwoofer controls are sub-optimal, I do not suffer the volume issue @ctuan13 had with his factory sub/amp (though I feel his pain). My sub is an old Infinity BassLink: a 10", 200W powered sub with it's own built-in amp. The sub has 4 RCA inputs that expect to be connected to the 4 RCA line-level outputs on the head unit (or at least 2 of them). Since the A6 Pro has 4 RCA outputs AND the 1 RCA sub output, I chose to use the sub output with a splitter to connect to the front right and front left inputs on my sub. Since everything sounds great and the A6 Pro's "Subwoofer Auto volume" setting works fine as far as my sub's volume is concerned, I haven't tried just using the regular RCA outputs to the subwoofer. My hope was that the A6 Pro's internal amp would act as a crossover when subwoofer output is turned on and filter out the low frequencies going to my 4 speakers that are connected directly to the head unit (but I honestly can't tell if that's happening or not :-).
I have the atoto a6 with the hard face buttons and its awsome. I was surprised the sounds quality it held with a bose system in my 03 gmc. And my subs sounds great. Use the eq adjustment to play with the sub bass and not the subs setting it self.
I don't have an issues with mine and 4 of my friends bought one too and they don't have any issues either . You probably got a bad unit. Replace it then do your review.
@ctuan13, Does this head unit have a seperate subwoofer output from like a left/right channel pre-amp output? Couldn't you just use the L/R pre-amp outputs and use the integrated crossover and gain control on the amp to make the subwoofer function proportionally to volume at all times?
Had a similar problem with my unit the sub out put was always cutting the bass on and off. It eventually blew my subs got the pro version and it did the same thing.features are great but sound quality is horrible I would stay away from atoto if your planning on using amps and subs!!!
It has a built in equalizer that will correct lot of those issues. What did you end up going with instead of it though? I have the a6 pro and love it. Debating getting the s8 pro now, just wondering what else may be out there.
Not having much issues with a s8 Ultra 10.1 display. But I did need to integrate an Epicenter for my 2x P2 Rockford 12s pushing only 800 watts for songs that are a bit lighter on bass. Volume matching has not been an issue just output. Door speakers sound amazing.
The question I would ask, is why use the head unit to control the sub channel in the first place? Most amps will obtain their sub signal from the main low level inputs, and then offer control with a dedicated knob
Like I covered in the video and in my original setup video, this is a factory system and factory sub. There is no sub level control and no amp adjustments. If you've got an aftermarket sub than these issues won't apply to you.
I hear ya. I just bought an A6Y10SB and while I do mostly love it, always some massively annoying issue. My sub output works perfectly fine so that's odd. But for my mine absolutely refuses to play any music from my SD card or USB stick except for the stock music app which sucks. I can see the drives, PowerAmp even sees the folders and all but just will not show any music/artist etc. I also can't update it since the method for that is via a zip file on USB and it gives me some file read write error FFS. I might send mine back if I can't get this fixed soon despite the pain it is to take back out. EDIT: Factory reset fixed the issue. Was some kind of permission being denied somehow. Updates work and music plays fine.
Oh yeah that definitely sucks, but surprising your sub output seems to function okay. The issue with the music is probably a hard coded permissions thing. Have you had any luck with their customer service?
@@juane3131 Oh no it works now. I did a factory reset. Seemed to be a permissions denial problem. Mp3s, M4a and FLAC all play fine now. I still don't love the stock music app so I use Musicolet instead.
I just got this unit and went thru the same issue you explained, however their latest update seems to fix that issue. now my sub setting remains on every boot. Not sure about the volume control tho since I haven't really messed with that. Thanks for the awesome video.
Atoto customer service is good. They normally get back to you you by email 24-48hr. I'm dealing with a hotspot/wifi no internet issue now. Trying to troubleshoot it first before I send it back for replacement. But other than that I love the unit.
@@melvino9693 Same with that too. I have to turn on wifi hotspot with my phone which is a ton of steps vs just letting it auto connect to Bluetooth 2 like it is supposed to.
I have the s6 pro with the physical buttons and don't have this problems. It can control the subwoofer just fine. I'm actually waiting for the s8 pro to be available as they have been sold out twice. I need 2 units for my other cars. The wait is killing me. It anyone has actually seen this in person and can recommend something equal or better would be great.
Yeah the S8 Pro actually looks great! I wish it'd been available back when I was looking for a unit for my Marauder. But I'm still happy with my Joying unit. Glad to hear the physical button model doesn't suffer from the same issues as this model though!
The issue with the sub amps volume sounds like your gain setting on the amp is way too high. Gain setting basically adjusts the level of input the amp will see.
Not looking to bust your chops as I am actively seeking the largest and sharpest screen to use in my 03 rubicon with a sub to run offline maps while off roading and allowing BT connection to Note 10 Plus running android 9.0 for music and phone. I checked the Joying site and was happy to see they have single DIN units with larger screens, also checked Phoenix but realized I might not be able to use 1st, 3rd, or 5th gear without contact to the 12.8 screen. Jumped on Amazon to read some pretty poor reviews for Joying. However you mention the Atoto A6Y272P as solving some of the problems you were having with the sub bass controls and wonder why did you not go with that? My logic for using a less popular brand is cost, but also want durability. I used to own a Duel which worked great in the honda for music and not having a name brand product on display in the dash reduces the theft potential.. Any response is appreciated.to offer suggestions, Great video! Thanks for posting!
Hey man thanks for the comment! As to your point about the other model, I said in the video it solved the issues with the horrible air gap in the display. It however, shares the exact same software as this model and thusly still has the same sub volume control issue.
@@ctuan13 thanks for that feedback. It's been years since I built my last car stereo using active crossovers and separate amps for everything and I remember having similar problems with the sub being on a different volume curve than the front and rear speakers when using the low level RCA outs. My solution was to send full range to the speakers and let the active crossover separate the low frequency from the smaller surrounds to power the sub using Rockford Fosgate amp. Even then I had to choose my listening level ( pretty loud ) and adjust the amp gain to get a clean deep bass. when I lowered the volume, I would loose the base. I understand the jeep sends the 4 speaker outs to a crossover to power the sub and hope I do not experience the curve you are dealing with. I think I will get the model you recommend and hope you find a solution that works for you.
Joying is good until you need warranty. They will tell you to repair it yourself or to send it to China at your own cost. My two cents based on my own experience.
@@jdelavi Yeah that is a definite downside with Joying, but I felt I didnt have many other options to both give me the features I wanted and the faceplate design to match my car's interior.
Great video . I have been into systems for many years and I've always used a parametric eq in my jeeps . Basically my eq is my volume and adjusts subs ect . Have this in wifes jeep and like the features it has . Question solid output to Eq with volume and bass and treble not being adjusted on hed unit will it hold , your opinion?
Hey! I really hope I can get a reply on one of your old videos, but you may be the perfect person to ask from the looks of your car. I have the 2001 Lincoln Town car and I'm looking for decent double din stereo that can fit under the vent inside the dashboard, does your car by chance have this vent in the way?
No gain control is for beginners but then again if you’re that concerned about audio quality don’t buy a 140$ head unit. To say nothing of the fact that your gain is wayyyy to high on that amp. You shouldn’t be maxing it out. Go JL or go home.
As far as the sub issue. Proper procedures to set up a sub to a head unit is to turn the gain alll the way down on the Sub amp, then play a typical song on your HU, turn up the volume until it clips then back it down a few, then adjust the gain on the amp to match the output the subs can handle, you will need to calculate volts and measure the output. Now when you turn up your volume in regular play, your bass will linearly increase with the volume.
So the only 2 things are the touch angle and the subwoofer control? I have a old ATOTO unit and this new one (the cheap one) and yes, the angle in the car affects how you should touch the screen (I got used to it fast). The subwoofer control is just a first world problem honestly. You should turn it OFF and ADJUST on the amp side like 90% of people do anyway and get a sub controller for on the fly AMP adjustments. First point is annoying but the second point is just nitpicking honestly
Well for me, I didnt want to have to deal with a second control for a sub and especially considering I am retaining the factory sub, an external control isnt possible. I'll be releasing a video soon on what I replaced it with.
@@ctuan13 If im not mistaken you could add a control to the factory sub if you have an aftermarket amp but that's a different story and is still adding an extra control which you don't want. What do you think about the Gesture controls? (If you have them).
I just bought an incar android deck for $111. It has android 7.0, nav, mirror image, wireless back up camera, cd, DVD player and so much more. I love this unit. I have compared Kenwood and Alphine. But neither brand has what android decks offers. When you’re shopping around for android unit, do some research.
noahsobd I bought the unit on eBay. It is called Eincar 2015. It has 2 knobs. I had it for over about a month. I really like the unit. But there are 2 issues. 1. FM radio reception so-so. 2. The clock always have a different time. Other than that, I think it is well worth the money. The fact that I can tether my phone to the unit, I have full usage of android and apps.
I have an Atoto a6 pro with physical buttons. I got it professionally installed and I don't have the subwoofer problem. It goes up and down fine along with the volume. Maybe it wasn't installed correctly?
Yeah, I have the A6pro with touch sensitive buttons. And I can't stand it. The touch buttons are super difficult to operate. You touch the buttons and nothing happens. You have to keep trying till you find the exact tiny spot that it will recognize. It doesn't sound very good. If I turn the volume up the bass is too much, I have to turn the bass almost to nothing just to have it at a decent level. So really I can only use it at low volume. No matter how much I play with the EQ it just sounds bad. I'm just going to go for a good kwnwood or something. The android UI was cool but it just isn't worth it.
I have the physical button version of it, and I'm about to rip it out of my dash because the buttons have stopped working correctly. The power button will turn the unit on when I go over bumps, and the volume buttons will turn the volume to 0. The track buttons no longer work. It's been in my car for a little over a year and a half, and I'm done with it. I have the same issue with the bass kicking in at volume 9-10 WITHOUT a sub. It will also randomly lock up for about half a second while playing music.
Seriously?? Wow that is not good. Have you tried contacting ATOTO at all? I'm not sure how long you've had the unit but that's definitely not normal and not common from what I've seen. Either way I'm sorry you've had such bad luck. I've long since swapped out my ATOTO unit for a Joying unit, not sure if you've seen that video: ruclips.net/video/4BS_EOJlW2c/видео.html
@@ctuan13 I have had it almost 2 years, and it's been reliable-ish most of the time. Just a few mild annoyances. About 2 weeks ago the buttons started acting erratically. Warranty is long gone. I am replacing it with another ATOTO unit (S8) so I hope I have a better experience. I would go with another brand but the ATOTO is cheap and had features I need that the other units don't have.
@@ctuan13 So far I am much happier with the S8 than the A6. It was basically plug and play, all the connections from the old one fit the new one. Unit is waaaaaay faster, sound quality seems better, EQ is much easier to use and more robust, I can run Poweramp as my music player and now I can actually read the fonts (they were insanely tiny on the A6). Also like that I can put my car's logo on startup, and change the color of the backlights on the buttons. Only problem I am trying to figure out is my power antenna and amplifier stay on for about 5 minutes after the car is turned off. For me, though, if it ends up being reliable the upgrade was totally worth it.
I understand that would work. I bring it up as one of the possible solutions, but to me, the idea of having to separately adjust the sub volume every time I want to change the system volume is not something I want to do. Thanks for commenting though!
@@ctuan13 its alot of things that I hate about the device as well, far as the updates and slow download when you have good internet. But the bass control is simple if you get a nob. But great video
Yes the Marauder has a factory sub. But if you only have four main drivers and no separate sub, just like I say in the video, you should have no issue. But I would still recommend the physical button version, since the super large air gap in the display is still a problem. Its linked in the description. Hope this helps!
Does anybody know how to fix bluetooth 1 not working shit always CUTS offs reconnects and after like 20 mins turn off completely and switch to "detecting bt device"
All you have to do is adjust your subwoofer settings...get a DD1 and problem solved...how about get a dsp since you have a subwoofer and problem is solved... this is completely user error
Man, this is why I've been hesitant about these Android HUs. The actual audio part. I mean yea its great having pretty UIs but at the end of the day we're still in car audio world and fancy touch screens dont mean shit if the the basic car audio functionalities are not present. Hell, a $30 Boss Audio stereo can dictate all the necessary car audio duties appropriately, which is more than I can say for anyone of these entry to mid-level Android units can. I'll stick to my single Din Alpine for now cause I love my Sundown Audio 12 and my Type R interior speakers too much to sacrifice them for a tablet on my dashboard.
Well I've been happy with it for about one month but now it won't fucking connect to the internet. It's connected to my wifi. My phones on my wifi. My laptop is on my wifi. The atoto is connected and even says signal strength "good" but I can't do a goddamn thing. I should've known better than to upgrade from the W3 which was plagued with problems.
@@danielchavez6161 I'm pretty happy with it. Like most of these units, it could do with slightly more RAM and a tad bit faster processor but it does everything else I need quite well.
yeah probably shudn't be worried about youtube while driving.. if ur parked then small buttons shudn't matter.. lol... and im thinking ur audio troubles are yours and not the units.. everyone knows the android unit sound can't compare to brands like sony, kicker, etc so if u bought this unit as great sounding radio.. they are only average my friend.. do some research before purchase. android are only a little better then stock.
Well the big issue with small UI buttons aren’t just for watching RUclips and the like while driving, but for changing navigation displays/controls and the sort. Difficult to hit, small elements and touch accuracy make that much more dangerous as well. And as for the audio issues, like I stated in the review, the sound quality from speakers is quite good, it is the completely mis-matched and broken sub output volume ramping. This is neither isolated to me or a small issue it was also stated in several reviews on RUclips as well as the product page on Amazon. While sound quality is by far not the primary purpose of an Android head unit, it should be at least as functional as a stock system, if it cannot even play properly with the factory SUB, it isn’t a good replacement.
everyone who has any experience with these units know they are not the best idea if sound is your number one goal with ur head unit. you shouldn't listen to amazon reviews and always come to youtube first as you u will find first hand knowledge and cud of saved yourself the headache. atoto has updated its unit since then but idk if they resolved that problem or not. don't watch youtube and drive. take care
Get a gain control device for your amp and that'll cancel out the lack of sub control from the head unit... Problem solved
The problem here is that the sub out is “pre-fader” and should be “post-fader”. First, understand that I’m a pro audio guy who mixes concerts for a living and set up very complex PA systems all the time. So think of the volume knob as a rotary fader, which in effect a fader on a mixer is a linear potentiometer instead of rotary. Check. Now any controls on that channel will be pre or post fader. Some things we want to be set pre fader, like sending a signal to another zone where we want that volume to stay the same regardless of fader position, AKA pre-fader. Post-fader simply means that whatever signal you’re sending out is dependent on the fader position, AKA post-fader. Sometimes we put our subs output on an aux instead of it just being in with the main crossover for the PA. You would want that send for the sub to be post-fader, otherwise when you pull the fader on the kick drum or bass channel the subs are still going while the rest of the PA is getting quieter, same problem as with this head unit. Simply having an outboard volume control does not fix the problem. I mean, yeah, it’s a solution, if you call having to continuously fiddle with controls to get properly balanced sound a “solution”, then stop reading here and go about your business. But the subwoofer output should by default “follow” the master volume knob, or post-volume(fader), and certainly not pre-fader. In fact, in car stereos, I can’t think of a single reason why you’d want anything to be pre-fader. Yes, there should be a master volume control for the subs, but that control should “follow” the master for the rest of the stereo, namely the main L&R outs, in this case RCA line level. If you want an external volume control for the subs, fine, and it might even be good because of the massive differences in mastering of today’s music. I can tell when tracks are recorded, mixed, or mastered by someone who knows what they’re doing or not just by listening to the track. If there’s tins of bass or tons of “s” like hi-hats and the esses in a voice, that tells me that their control monitors were high end deficient, so they made up for it in the mix or master using a poor excuse for a reference as their, well, reference. Then when that track is played through a proper flat response 20hz-20khz sound system, the highs are excessive. Same with bass. But here’s an opposite example. Let’s say the bass is lacking on the track released to the public. That means the guys in the studio got fat and happy with subs which were set too loud as their reference, thereby putting all the bass in a spot which sounded good on that monitor system, yet when played back through a correctly eq’d rig, the bass is lacking. ATOTO, listen up, fox the pro, it’s as simple as an update to the OS which theoretically could be emailed to customers with an interface to load the correct OS setup into the unit, requiring less returns and more happy customers and maybe even making a name for yourselves to put you right on top. The foundation is obviously there. People LOVE THE UNITS! I’ve read dozens of reviews, and I’m about to buy one for my Magnum and one for my Suburban so I can have Bluetooth that will start playback right where I left off when I got out and also have a backup camera for hitching up the trailer and to keep from flattening morons who just HAVE to walk behind a vehicle which is backing up, bright white reverse lights and all. I’m about to put cut-outs in both vehicles just for that, so I can just jab the throttle in Park or neutral and scare the shit out of the idiots who go through life oblivious to what’s going on around them. Entitled? More like entitled to get the hell out my way! People can be so stupid, you gotta wonder how they tie their shoes, brush their teeth, even get dressed in the morn, and then live to be 30, 40, 70 years old. Oh, yeah, their mom’s still do all that for them, that’s how. Wow.
I've had the unit for about a year and a half and immediately noticed the subpar sub controls especially coming from the well thought out Pioneer headunits. I paid $130 for the unit after a lightning deal so I'll live with it and its other great features. I did not realize until watching your video that sub volume was set according to main volume setting in "manual mode". Then once the volume is increased from 0 to 1 the bass kicks in immediately (no subtle increase based on main volume as it should be). My other gripe is that I haven't figured out how to change main player interface colors (bluetooth, aux, usb, sd )from magenta to something else. Good video!
I had the same problem with the sub output. So I ran the manual wired remote for the sub so I could just reach down by my seat and turn the dial up and down to change the sub level and it made a huge difference.
Did you ever try just using the regular stereo preouts and adjusting the level on the amp till it sounds fine?
Instead of using the subwoofer rca jack? Use one of the rear or front?
Does the volume stay consistent when used that way?
I'm watching this video a year later have they fixed it
I have the s6 pro with the physical buttons and don't have this problems.
What.? Learn how to adjust a amp.. my stereo sounds right. Plus this is a Android head unit. Of course your not going to be able to adjust fine tuning without a pre EQ.
I have the A6 Pro (with buttons), and while the subwoofer controls are sub-optimal, I do not suffer the volume issue @ctuan13 had with his factory sub/amp (though I feel his pain). My sub is an old Infinity BassLink: a 10", 200W powered sub with it's own built-in amp. The sub has 4 RCA inputs that expect to be connected to the 4 RCA line-level outputs on the head unit (or at least 2 of them). Since the A6 Pro has 4 RCA outputs AND the 1 RCA sub output, I chose to use the sub output with a splitter to connect to the front right and front left inputs on my sub. Since everything sounds great and the A6 Pro's "Subwoofer Auto volume" setting works fine as far as my sub's volume is concerned, I haven't tried just using the regular RCA outputs to the subwoofer. My hope was that the A6 Pro's internal amp would act as a crossover when subwoofer output is turned on and filter out the low frequencies going to my 4 speakers that are connected directly to the head unit (but I honestly can't tell if that's happening or not :-).
I have the atoto a6 with the hard face buttons and its awsome. I was surprised the sounds quality it held with a bose system in my 03 gmc. And my subs sounds great. Use the eq adjustment to play with the sub bass and not the subs setting it self.
What kit did u have to use to install with bose?
@@joshuarivera7622 i believe it was the
pac gm21a
I don't have an issues with mine and 4 of my friends bought one too and they don't have any issues either . You probably got a bad unit. Replace it then do your review.
@ctuan13, Does this head unit have a seperate subwoofer output from like a left/right channel pre-amp output? Couldn't you just use the L/R pre-amp outputs and use the integrated crossover and gain control on the amp to make the subwoofer function proportionally to volume at all times?
What he said... just use the amps lowpass feature.
they should not accept your return .... the unit is not faulty .. I think your due diligence on the unit prior to purchase is what's at fault
So, basically, if were to get the button version for my factory sound system Swift, I'd be gucci?
Had a similar problem with my unit the sub out put was always cutting the bass on and off. It eventually blew my subs got the pro version and it did the same thing.features are great but sound quality is horrible I would stay away from atoto if your planning on using amps and subs!!!
It has a built in equalizer that will correct lot of those issues. What did you end up going with instead of it though? I have the a6 pro and love it. Debating getting the s8 pro now, just wondering what else may be out there.
So this is perfect if you don't have aftermarket subs?
I got the Rockville 8" slim sub about a month ago and I can control it straight out of my s6 pro with the physical buttons. No problems for me.
Not having much issues with a s8 Ultra 10.1 display. But I did need to integrate an Epicenter for my 2x P2 Rockford 12s pushing only 800 watts for songs that are a bit lighter on bass. Volume matching has not been an issue just output. Door speakers sound amazing.
The question I would ask, is why use the head unit to control the sub channel in the first place?
Most amps will obtain their sub signal from the main low level inputs, and then offer control with a dedicated knob
Like I covered in the video and in my original setup video, this is a factory system and factory sub. There is no sub level control and no amp adjustments. If you've got an aftermarket sub than these issues won't apply to you.
I hear ya. I just bought an A6Y10SB and while I do mostly love it, always some massively annoying issue. My sub output works perfectly fine so that's odd. But for my mine absolutely refuses to play any music from my SD card or USB stick except for the stock music app which sucks. I can see the drives, PowerAmp even sees the folders and all but just will not show any music/artist etc. I also can't update it since the method for that is via a zip file on USB and it gives me some file read write error FFS. I might send mine back if I can't get this fixed soon despite the pain it is to take back out.
EDIT: Factory reset fixed the issue. Was some kind of permission being denied somehow. Updates work and music plays fine.
Oh yeah that definitely sucks, but surprising your sub output seems to function okay. The issue with the music is probably a hard coded permissions thing. Have you had any luck with their customer service?
The music needs to be converted to wav. Format.
@@juane3131 Oh no it works now. I did a factory reset. Seemed to be a permissions denial problem. Mp3s, M4a and FLAC all play fine now. I still don't love the stock music app so I use Musicolet instead.
@@ctuan13 what is meant by no gesture sensor
@@daharv There are two models, one with a gesture sensor that allows the use of hand gestures to control it and one without the sensor.
I just got this unit and went thru the same issue you explained, however their latest update seems to fix that issue. now my sub setting remains on every boot. Not sure about the volume control tho since I haven't really messed with that. Thanks for the awesome video.
Does anyone know if the DSP on the newer S8 version will solve the issue with overdriving the sub?
Atoto customer service is good. They normally get back to you you by email 24-48hr. I'm dealing with a hotspot/wifi no internet issue now. Trying to troubleshoot it first before I send it back for replacement. But other than that I love the unit.
I have the same hotspot problem. Bluetooth 2 doesn't work at all.
@@repairdrive it connect to my home WiFi no problem. So I figured its maybe security with my mobile phone/carrier.
@@melvino9693 Same with that too. I have to turn on wifi hotspot with my phone which is a ton of steps vs just letting it auto connect to Bluetooth 2 like it is supposed to.
If you wana use subwoofer the need amplifiers
I have the s6 pro with the physical buttons and don't have this problems. It can control the subwoofer just fine. I'm actually waiting for the s8 pro to be available as they have been sold out twice. I need 2 units for my other cars. The wait is killing me. It anyone has actually seen this in person and can recommend something equal or better would be great.
Yeah the S8 Pro actually looks great! I wish it'd been available back when I was looking for a unit for my Marauder.
But I'm still happy with my Joying unit.
Glad to hear the physical button model doesn't suffer from the same issues as this model though!
What version is this ? I k ow its the 6pro but what numbers was on the box?
So which Atoto reciver would you recommend is good all over ?
this looks like a gain on your subs problem and not the headunit, I have the same one(physical button) and it doesn't do this at all.
What did you replace it with?
The issue with the sub amps volume sounds like your gain setting on the amp is way too high. Gain setting basically adjusts the level of input the amp will see.
Not looking to bust your chops as I am actively seeking the largest and sharpest screen to use in my 03 rubicon with a sub to run offline maps while off roading and allowing BT connection to Note 10 Plus running android 9.0 for music and phone. I checked the Joying site and was happy to see they have single DIN units with larger screens, also checked Phoenix but realized I might not be able to use 1st, 3rd, or 5th gear without contact to the 12.8 screen. Jumped on Amazon to read some pretty poor reviews for Joying. However you mention the Atoto A6Y272P as solving some of the problems you were having with the sub bass controls and wonder why did you not go with that? My logic for using a less popular brand is cost, but also want durability. I used to own a Duel which worked great in the honda for music and not having a name brand product on display in the dash reduces the theft potential.. Any response is appreciated.to offer suggestions, Great video! Thanks for posting!
Hey man thanks for the comment! As to your point about the other model, I said in the video it solved the issues with the horrible air gap in the display. It however, shares the exact same software as this model and thusly still has the same sub volume control issue.
@@ctuan13 thanks for that feedback. It's been years since I built my last car stereo using active crossovers and separate amps for everything and I remember having similar problems with the sub being on a different volume curve than the front and rear speakers when using the low level RCA outs. My solution was to send full range to the speakers and let the active crossover separate the low frequency from the smaller surrounds to power the sub using Rockford Fosgate amp. Even then I had to choose my listening level ( pretty loud ) and adjust the amp gain to get a clean deep bass. when I lowered the volume, I would loose the base. I understand the jeep sends the 4 speaker outs to a crossover to power the sub and hope I do not experience the curve you are dealing with. I think I will get the model you recommend and hope you find a solution that works for you.
Joying is good until you need warranty. They will tell you to repair it yourself or to send it to China at your own cost. My two cents based on my own experience.
@@jdelavi Thanks for your input, make my decision to go with Kenwood from Crutchfeild a better choice
@@jdelavi Yeah that is a definite downside with Joying, but I felt I didnt have many other options to both give me the features I wanted and the faceplate design to match my car's interior.
that's weird. My A6 atoto has the same settings for sub, but the sub does get louder as volume gets louder.
Sweet crown vic bro! I'm about to install something in mine
Its a Marauder, but thanks man and good luck!
@@ctuan13 did u manage to figure out the bass issue? I want to buy this deck but don't want the sub issues
Great video . I have been into systems for many years and I've always used a parametric eq in my jeeps . Basically my eq is my volume and adjusts subs ect . Have this in wifes jeep and like the features it has . Question solid output to Eq with volume and bass and treble not being adjusted on hed unit will it hold , your opinion?
Hey! I really hope I can get a reply on one of your old videos, but you may be the perfect person to ask from the looks of your car. I have the 2001 Lincoln Town car and I'm looking for decent double din stereo that can fit under the vent inside the dashboard, does your car by chance have this vent in the way?
No gain control is for beginners but then again if you’re that concerned about audio quality don’t buy a 140$ head unit. To say nothing of the fact that your gain is wayyyy to high on that amp. You shouldn’t be maxing it out. Go JL or go home.
It doesn't have video output for the rear
Pop POP up AND down headlightss
I have touching issues as well just bought to long ago and can't exchange it or return it to get my money back 😒
Thanks for honest opinion guess i will have to see what happens with the one waiting to be installed.
As far as the sub issue. Proper procedures to set up a sub to a head unit is to turn the gain alll the way down on the Sub amp, then play a typical song on your HU, turn up the volume until it clips then back it down a few, then adjust the gain on the amp to match the output the subs can handle, you will need to calculate volts and measure the output. Now when you turn up your volume in regular play, your bass will linearly increase with the volume.
So the only 2 things are the touch angle and the subwoofer control? I have a old ATOTO unit and this new one (the cheap one) and yes, the angle in the car affects how you should touch the screen (I got used to it fast). The subwoofer control is just a first world problem honestly. You should turn it OFF and ADJUST on the amp side like 90% of people do anyway and get a sub controller for on the fly AMP adjustments. First point is annoying but the second point is just nitpicking honestly
Well for me, I didnt want to have to deal with a second control for a sub and especially considering I am retaining the factory sub, an external control isnt possible. I'll be releasing a video soon on what I replaced it with.
@@ctuan13 If im not mistaken you could add a control to the factory sub if you have an aftermarket amp but that's a different story and is still adding an extra control which you don't want. What do you think about the Gesture controls? (If you have them).
@@SupportNoob Well I already returned the unit but also gesture controls are more than a bit gimmicky for me. I would never use them.
@@ctuan13 I guessed so, was wondering if I should save those extra $50 and skip the gestures. Thanks man.
I just bought an incar android deck for $111. It has android 7.0, nav, mirror image, wireless back up camera, cd, DVD player and so much more. I love this unit. I have compared Kenwood and Alphine. But neither brand has what android decks offers. When you’re shopping around for android unit, do some research.
what brand and model was that?
noahsobd I bought the unit on eBay. It is called Eincar 2015. It has 2 knobs. I had it for over about a month. I really like the unit. But there are 2 issues. 1. FM radio reception so-so. 2. The clock always have a different time. Other than that, I think it is well worth the money.
The fact that I can tether my phone to the unit, I have full usage of android and apps.
I have an Atoto a6 pro with physical buttons. I got it professionally installed and I don't have the subwoofer problem. It goes up and down fine along with the volume. Maybe it wasn't installed correctly?
That boy got that merc ok nih
Will this unit work on an atotto 10.1" inch screan display , apposed to the 7" display
I don't have this subwoofer problem
Used a external pre amplifier
Yeah, I have the A6pro with touch sensitive buttons. And I can't stand it. The touch buttons are super difficult to operate. You touch the buttons and nothing happens. You have to keep trying till you find the exact tiny spot that it will recognize. It doesn't sound very good. If I turn the volume up the bass is too much, I have to turn the bass almost to nothing just to have it at a decent level. So really I can only use it at low volume. No matter how much I play with the EQ it just sounds bad. I'm just going to go for a good kwnwood or something. The android UI was cool but it just isn't worth it.
I have the physical button version of it, and I'm about to rip it out of my dash because the buttons have stopped working correctly. The power button will turn the unit on when I go over bumps, and the volume buttons will turn the volume to 0. The track buttons no longer work. It's been in my car for a little over a year and a half, and I'm done with it. I have the same issue with the bass kicking in at volume 9-10 WITHOUT a sub. It will also randomly lock up for about half a second while playing music.
Seriously?? Wow that is not good. Have you tried contacting ATOTO at all? I'm not sure how long you've had the unit but that's definitely not normal and not common from what I've seen.
Either way I'm sorry you've had such bad luck. I've long since swapped out my ATOTO unit for a Joying unit, not sure if you've seen that video:
ruclips.net/video/4BS_EOJlW2c/видео.html
@@ctuan13 I have had it almost 2 years, and it's been reliable-ish most of the time. Just a few mild annoyances. About 2 weeks ago the buttons started acting erratically. Warranty is long gone. I am replacing it with another ATOTO unit (S8) so I hope I have a better experience. I would go with another brand but the ATOTO is cheap and had features I need that the other units don't have.
@@zeketaney5567 Ahh okay, I gotcha. Well let me know how it works out for you! I've been intrigued by the S8.
@@ctuan13 Will do!
@@ctuan13 So far I am much happier with the S8 than the A6. It was basically plug and play, all the connections from the old one fit the new one. Unit is waaaaaay faster, sound quality seems better, EQ is much easier to use and more robust, I can run Poweramp as my music player and now I can actually read the fonts (they were insanely tiny on the A6). Also like that I can put my car's logo on startup, and change the color of the backlights on the buttons. Only problem I am trying to figure out is my power antenna and amplifier stay on for about 5 minutes after the car is turned off. For me, though, if it ends up being reliable the upgrade was totally worth it.
What is meant by no gesture sensor?
Try a bass knob
You should buy a lvl control for your sub that works for me
I understand that would work. I bring it up as one of the possible solutions, but to me, the idea of having to separately adjust the sub volume every time I want to change the system volume is not something I want to do.
Thanks for commenting though!
@@ctuan13 its alot of things that I hate about the device as well, far as the updates and slow download when you have good internet. But the bass control is simple if you get a nob. But great video
@@ctuan13 always PAC LC-1 Bass knob.. Could be the way your amp gain is set though as well.
Do you have separate subwoofer speakers? Would this be an issue with normal factory installed door mounted speakers?
Yes the Marauder has a factory sub. But if you only have four main drivers and no separate sub, just like I say in the video, you should have no issue.
But I would still recommend the physical button version, since the super large air gap in the display is still a problem. Its linked in the description.
Hope this helps!
mine froze on me and i looked into it and no one could fix the problem
Why didnt you adjust the sub gains.at the amp?
Good review
Does anybody know how to fix bluetooth 1 not working shit always CUTS offs reconnects and after like 20 mins turn off completely and switch to "detecting bt device"
Ye I returned mine two a long time ago as the radio reception was crap no matter what I did
So if you have a newer car you should be good
Dude u just gotta email them and update when it comes out or jailbreak it and put something else
All you have to do is adjust your subwoofer settings...get a DD1 and problem solved...how about get a dsp since you have a subwoofer and problem is solved... this is completely user error
Man, this is why I've been hesitant about these Android HUs. The actual audio part. I mean yea its great having pretty UIs but at the end of the day we're still in car audio world and fancy touch screens dont mean shit if the the basic car audio functionalities are not present. Hell, a $30 Boss Audio stereo can dictate all the necessary car audio duties appropriately, which is more than I can say for anyone of these entry to mid-level Android units can. I'll stick to my single Din Alpine for now cause I love my Sundown Audio 12 and my Type R interior speakers too much to sacrifice them for a tablet on my dashboard.
Anyone know if the atoto a6y2710s has adjustable equalizer
Well I've been happy with it for about one month but now it won't fucking connect to the internet. It's connected to my wifi. My phones on my wifi. My laptop is on my wifi. The atoto is connected and even says signal strength "good" but I can't do a goddamn thing. I should've known better than to upgrade from the W3 which was plagued with problems.
Understand... so what did you recommand ?
I have a video coming out soon that will go into detail, but I ended up going with a new unit from Joying.
ctuan13 how are you liking the joying?
@@danielchavez6161 I'm pretty happy with it. Like most of these units, it could do with slightly more RAM and a tad bit faster processor but it does everything else I need quite well.
@@ctuan13 be looking for that video.
That interview is a great 1 I was going to buy one I will not buy 1 now
Didn't watch the entire video, can't get passed having the sub at 120hz. In my opinion, that's too high for a sub.
Depends on the setup.
Yeah that's not the a6 pro
Used a pretty am
yeah probably shudn't be worried about youtube while driving.. if ur parked then small buttons shudn't matter.. lol... and im thinking ur audio troubles are yours and not the units.. everyone knows the android unit sound can't compare to brands like sony, kicker, etc so if u bought this unit as great sounding radio.. they are only average my friend.. do some research before purchase. android are only a little better then stock.
Well the big issue with small UI buttons aren’t just for watching RUclips and the like while driving, but for changing navigation displays/controls and the sort. Difficult to hit, small elements and touch accuracy make that much more dangerous as well. And as for the audio issues, like I stated in the review, the sound quality from speakers is quite good, it is the completely mis-matched and broken sub output volume ramping. This is neither isolated to me or a small issue it was also stated in several reviews on RUclips as well as the product page on Amazon.
While sound quality is by far not the primary purpose of an Android head unit, it should be at least as functional as a stock system, if it cannot even play properly with the factory SUB, it isn’t a good replacement.
everyone who has any experience with these units know they are not the best idea if sound is your number one goal with ur head unit.
you shouldn't listen to amazon reviews and always come to youtube first as you u will find first hand knowledge and cud of saved yourself the headache.
atoto has updated its unit since then but idk if they resolved that problem or not.
don't watch youtube and drive.
take care
dude just get a bass knob lmao
Good vid. But too late I already orderd the correct one before I even saw your video. Mu ha ha ha.
Wish one it's the correct one?
Yea, which one!!??
I removed my A6 Pro because its trash! My Joying Head Unit is so much better.
Usually the other way around