Very comprehensive and excellently compiled video. I see now why it takes so long. I would classify myself as a competent amateur mechanic but I think this job has got me beat before I even start. Love your systematic approach getting yourself the space to work in.
Since I'm more stubborn and broke than I am smart I just finished this job by myself in my garage without a lift or special jacks so it can be done but I cannot stress enough to be very careful and take your time. I would like to make some observations and suggestions based on my experience (and not sure if it makes any difference but our MINI is USDM). Let me make my comments in the same order of this video: Take everything off and out of the way on the top of the motor like he says but also get the headlight then too (he'll come back to that later). I pulled back the two coolant lines he talks about at 4:08 and zip tied them out of the way to make all that access even easier. Also, there is no reason to remove the brackets for the linkage cables like he does in 6:32 and again I zip tied those cables off to the side. Under the car now: You will need to take off the exhaust but you don't have to take off those two brackets he says to remove at 9:58, you can just slide it out but you will need to take off the two mount nuts and I took off the exhaust hanger brackets instead of messing with the rubber. My biggest advice here is to leave the steering rack and sway bar attached to the subframe and take that whole thing down in one piece. To do that you will need to disconnect the sway bar end links and steering rack from the hub assembly (which he doesn't show). Then leave on the four bolts he says to take off at 11:22, skip the steering rack bolts he goes after at 13:26, and skip tying it up because it will come down in one piece with the subframe. I balanced the subframe in the center where those two brackets I left on from removing the exhaust on a floor jack and was able to carefully lower it down to the floor by myself. I didn't have an engine hoist thing for the top so I used a 2x4 and tied it off there with a cable. I also didn't have a transmission jack so I made a kind of jig out of lumber and tied it off onto my floor jack to cradle the transmission and lower it out, same to put it back in. Oh, and it took me forever to find but the flywheel torque specs are 66 ft lbs and the clutch plate is 17 ft lbs The trick to doing this by yourself and without a lift ETC is to TAKE IT SLOW and easy. There were many opportunities to get seriously hurt but with patience and forethought you can get this done without anything more than the normal bloody knuckles you would expect of any home mechanic job 🙂
I am contemplating doing clutches on our 2012 fwd and 2013 all4. I didn't see how you disconnect the drive shafts. Do they just pull out? Amazingly concise, yet detailed video. Thanks
@@TEAMR4ULTV It looks like a big job. I've done timing belts and clutches in my other cars so I know how it can be but this one looks tough. I'll make a weekend of it when I do it.
@@17oggerdoesGood luck, just take your time, if you've done clutches before you should be ok, once you have the sub frame off its pretty much like other clutches
Amazing great job well done very sure not for faint hearted I salute you. Do you know how to do the wishbones on this car does it involve dropping the subframe as well like the older models to get access to the 2 bolts hidden at the top of the end bush or you can simply do them from the bottom of the subframe, thanks?
Thanks for watching really appreciate it. I think maybe you can get away without dropping the sub frame. But to make it easier I would drop it a little, do one side at a time
I didnt use any. But just bear in mind when you take the battery off make sure car is properly off and when refitting it the car is off. If it gets a power Serge could damage the foot well module
Awesome video! A couple of questions: What other parts would you recommend replacing while the sub-frame is off? I'm thinking control arm bushings, anything else? Also, how can you tell if the flywheel needs to be replaced or not? Mine has the dual-mass flywheel.
Thanks for watching really appreciate it. As far as the fly Wheel goes I would recommend Replacing it such a headache job you dont want to do it again. Other parts I would say if it's not broke dont fix it.
Raul! That was brilliant, thank you!! I have a garage quoting my 2014 JCW Countryman clutch change at 14.5 hours of labour and that the “whole front clip has to come off”. Does this sound right to you? Sorry, I’m in Canada or I’d definitely use your garage! Haha!! Please and thank you, good sir! 🙏🏼
Thanks for watching really appreciate it. It is a mammoth job to be honest I would say about 10hrs should cover it. I never took the front end of just tell drop the sub frame and everything should be accessible.
Great video, I’m going to be doing mine next week and this video really helped. One thing, how did you the connect the support bar to the engine? Thanks.
2008 Mini/Hatch 1.6L Petrol Clutch Replacement, check ths best video from Kevin Albert Williams You Tube channel. The best and easy way. My labor for this $1000.00
Very comprehensive and excellently compiled video. I see now why it takes so long. I would classify myself as a competent amateur mechanic but I think this job has got me beat before I even start. Love your systematic approach getting yourself the space to work in.
Since I'm more stubborn and broke than I am smart I just finished this job by myself in my garage without a lift or special jacks so it can be done but I cannot stress enough to be very careful and take your time. I would like to make some observations and suggestions based on my experience (and not sure if it makes any difference but our MINI is USDM).
Let me make my comments in the same order of this video: Take everything off and out of the way on the top of the motor like he says but also get the headlight then too (he'll come back to that later). I pulled back the two coolant lines he talks about at 4:08 and zip tied them out of the way to make all that access even easier. Also, there is no reason to remove the brackets for the linkage cables like he does in 6:32 and again I zip tied those cables off to the side.
Under the car now: You will need to take off the exhaust but you don't have to take off those two brackets he says to remove at 9:58, you can just slide it out but you will need to take off the two mount nuts and I took off the exhaust hanger brackets instead of messing with the rubber. My biggest advice here is to leave the steering rack and sway bar attached to the subframe and take that whole thing down in one piece. To do that you will need to disconnect the sway bar end links and steering rack from the hub assembly (which he doesn't show). Then leave on the four bolts he says to take off at 11:22, skip the steering rack bolts he goes after at 13:26, and skip tying it up because it will come down in one piece with the subframe. I balanced the subframe in the center where those two brackets I left on from removing the exhaust on a floor jack and was able to carefully lower it down to the floor by myself.
I didn't have an engine hoist thing for the top so I used a 2x4 and tied it off there with a cable. I also didn't have a transmission jack so I made a kind of jig out of lumber and tied it off onto my floor jack to cradle the transmission and lower it out, same to put it back in. Oh, and it took me forever to find but the flywheel torque specs are 66 ft lbs and the clutch plate is 17 ft lbs
The trick to doing this by yourself and without a lift ETC is to TAKE IT SLOW and easy. There were many opportunities to get seriously hurt but with patience and forethought you can get this done without anything more than the normal bloody knuckles you would expect of any home mechanic job 🙂
Thanks for watching really appreciate it
great video bro thanks for sharing your hard work
So, it's a good idea to change the exhaust while at it? Is there anything else worth doing a service on as well?
To be honest it's a really bad design. You cant go replacing everything it'll cost you too much.
I am contemplating doing clutches on our 2012 fwd and 2013 all4. I didn't see how you disconnect the drive shafts. Do they just pull out? Amazingly concise, yet detailed video. Thanks
Hi thanks for watching really appreciate it. The Drive shafts just pull off. Or pry off with pry bar
Ah ha. I’ve been waiting for a good video on this. My last clutch was covered by mini under my service package but not the next one I need!
Not the easiest clutch to do, take your time. If you have someone to help you will be good too
@@TEAMR4ULTV It looks like a big job. I've done timing belts and clutches in my other cars so I know how it can be but this one looks tough. I'll make a weekend of it when I do it.
@@17oggerdoesGood luck, just take your time, if you've done clutches before you should be ok, once you have the sub frame off its pretty much like other clutches
Very similar to the R53, Happy days 😊
Amazing great job well done very sure not for faint hearted I salute you.
Do you know how to do the wishbones on this car does it involve dropping the subframe as well like the older models to get access to the 2 bolts hidden at the top of the end bush or you can simply do them from the bottom of the subframe, thanks?
Thanks for watching really appreciate it. I think maybe you can get away without dropping the sub frame. But to make it easier I would drop it a little, do one side at a time
Great Help thanks
Great video!
Are there any special BMW or MINI tools required for this job?
I didnt use any. But just bear in mind when you take the battery off make sure car is properly off and when refitting it the car is off. If it gets a power Serge could damage the foot well module
Thank you so much ! 🤩
It's the same for countryman S 1.6 all4 2012 ? 🙏
Thanks for watching. Sorry Am not too sure might be
Awesome video! A couple of questions: What other parts would you recommend replacing while the sub-frame is off? I'm thinking control arm bushings, anything else? Also, how can you tell if the flywheel needs to be replaced or not? Mine has the dual-mass flywheel.
Thanks for watching really appreciate it. As far as the fly Wheel goes I would recommend Replacing it such a headache job you dont want to do it again. Other parts I would say if it's not broke dont fix it.
Thanks for the video man! Gonna help me quite a bit as I just ruined my clutch last night. I'll keep you updated haha
Great video!! Cheers
Your welcome
Raul! That was brilliant, thank you!! I have a garage quoting my 2014 JCW Countryman clutch change at 14.5 hours of labour and that the “whole front clip has to come off”. Does this sound right to you? Sorry, I’m in Canada or I’d definitely use your garage! Haha!! Please and thank you, good sir! 🙏🏼
Thanks for watching really appreciate it. It is a mammoth job to be honest I would say about 10hrs should cover it. I never took the front end of just tell drop the sub frame and everything should be accessible.
@@TEAMR4ULTVand I really appreciate the response and advice, Raul! Best blessings!!
Great video, I’m going to be doing mine next week and this video really helped. One thing, how did you the connect the support bar to the engine? Thanks.
Thank for watching
There should be a engine mounting bracket on top plus I got a metal hook on the bracket
@@TEAMR4ULTV thanks for replying, I should be able to get a hook connected to my support bar.
Did you put the front end in service mode for this?
No I didnt just done it like any other clutch,was ok
@@TEAMR4ULTV Sweet, thanks for the reply
Al be honest it's not the easiest job
Well DONE!!!
What was the torque specs for flywheel and clutch disc?
Al be honest just do it tight
How long did it take in real time
It took me a most of day, to be honest
2008 Mini/Hatch 1.6L Petrol Clutch Replacement, check ths best video from Kevin Albert Williams You Tube channel. The best and easy way. My labor for this $1000.00