I have a Tracker grizzly 1754. I just bought a 2021 Mercury 20hp efi motor. This is the first outboard ive ever owned. I was about to drill holes in the transom then decided to do more research. The dealer said i should permanently mount the motor so theres no chance of losing it. The cavitation plate is about 1/4" higher than the bottom of the boat. Do you think i should do some test runs first before i drill? I have to break it in 2hrs with no full throttle, just puttin' around. Then 8 hrs with very limited full throtttle to reach the 10hrs break in period.
Thanks for the feedback, as long as it gets you there! I ended up getting a 1648 grizzly with a 25hp Yamaha. Going to install a permatrim hydrofoil and either this mini jacker or an on the fly jack plate to run as shallow as possible
I’m thinking of mountain my jack plate at a similar height as yours . We’re you concerned about the extra stress on your hull? Would love to see a picture of the mount out of the water and see where you placed your bolts . Thanks for the video
How many wholes did that take to mount? I could raise my motor slightly but I really need mine to be further back because my tiller arm hits the back of my seat
Nice set up! I just got a grizzly 1448 the transom 17.5 inches it’s a little too high for a short shaft is a little too low for long shaft thinking I might have to do the same thing I don’t know I have used doel fins before I might try that works great to get it up on plane
I don’t have the boat anymore. The cavitation plate sat 1 1/2” above the bottom of the boat. However, I lowered it back after this to 1” above the bottom and it ran the same as this 1 1/2” above.
Very helpful video - especially about where your cavitation plate sits. I have a Grizzly 1448 with a 25 Merc 4 stroke. It porpoises on plane. I have added sponsons to the stern for added flotation and I have just gotten an TH Marine/Atlas microjacker. This way i should be able to adjust the height on the water. We will see
So to make sure I understand correctly - The boat you have is a Tracker Grizzly 1648 which was built with a 21" transom. You have a 20hp mercury that is a long shaft which is rated at 20", but they actually measure around 22-23". So you felt that the long shaft, was too long for the boat - and that's why you decided to go with the jack plate?
Yes, correct. The motor cavitation plate when placed straight on the transom hung about 4" too low. I had to use the jack plate to bring it up at least even with the bottom and then I just went from there to dial it in.
J Swoozy So if you had a short shaft motor that actually would work on the set up wouldn’t you agree? I don’t think you would need the jack plate. I have a 20 hp Suzuki and I’m going to buy a job boat. I just wanna make sure I pair the right one for a short shaft
@@jswoozy517 that is exactly where I was going with my question. I just purchased a "short shaft" mercury 20hp, and it actually measures about 23-24" from where the motor rests on the transom to the bottom of the lower unit. So to me that would be the same difference as what this guy was trying get by using the jackplate. Once you've got weight in the boat, the prop should sit about 4-5" under water and leave the cavitation plate where his was sitting with the jack plate
Correct, I did use the jack plate to bring the cavitation plate up to level or just above the bottom of the hull. I am not sure if a short shaft would work on this boat because I have not ever tried it. However, the jack plate also sets the motor back 4-6" I can't remember the exact measurement. In doing so, it allows for the motor to run in shallower and cleaner water. No matter if the motor sits at the right height or not, I always use a jack plate on my boats for these reasons.
J Swoozy That’s unfortunate. Going to make the DIY from tiny boat nation and set it four inches low so I don’t have to cut into the transom. Please advise otherwise before I’m finished lol
Not gonna lie, pretty jealous of your setup. Maybe a Jackplate would help my setup but I ight be expecting too much due to weight of my boat. I just put on a 10p stainless prop and looking forward to testing it out. Did you go with the 12p Mercury/Quicksilver?
MVB Outdoors Where is your cavitation plate located in relation to the bottom of your hull? The only reason I got the jack plate was because before it, the cavitation plate was almost 4” below the bottom...I went with a 12p Solas prop. It was half the price of the quicksilver.
@@jswoozy517 The plate sits around 1-2" below, not as bad as your setup it sounds. I took the boat out yesterday to try the 10p stainless and it was noticeably faster. Fully loaded we got up to 23-24mph from 19-21mph but when it was just me I took it for a spin and hit 27mph! Also, I'm sitting in the 6100-6200 RPM range so I think I might have room for an 11p or maybe even 12p prop like you have going!
MVB Outdoors Gotcha, mine sits about 1 1/2” above the bottom of the boat. I gained 300rpms just by moving it up that extra 1”. Sounds to me like you have yours dialed in perfectly!
20hp 08 merc 12p 1548 grizzly no jake plate two battery's gear and trolling motor 27mph. Upgrading to 25hp Yamaha 12p with jack plate and lithium battery's expecting 33mph+ Still keeping the 20 for local hp restricted lakes to also see what a Jack plate does to top end.
Maybe 250-300lbs total. Just me, trolling motor, battery and tackle boxes. The key is weight distribution and the right height for the motor. Keeping the battery up front helps a lot.
Pretty sure jack plates are not supported on Trackers (and most jon boats), and void's the hull warranty. Having said that if you were on the lower end of the HP and weight limit with your outboard, you will probably be fine with a simple jack plate with minimal set back. But if you are near the HP and weight limit with your outboard, keep in mind that the chances you will irreparably damage the transom go up dramatically and this will not be a covered repair/replacement. Looking at this installation, you mounted it too high by quite a bit. I would say at least 1.5-2 inches. This is based on several observations and experience. One, your anti-cav plate is too high in the water column at top speed. This will cause at least two main problems. Your risk of starving the water pump impeller is high thus greatly increasing the chance for an overheat and high speed turns will be difficult to perform without a blow out. Two, because the outboard COG is so high this will make the boat more tippy at slow/stop. Three, when you add a passenger or other weight up front, the anti-cav will be raised even further out of the water column and the overheat/blow out risk will be amplified even more. Four, if it gets rough at all and you start proposing, its overheat/blow out city. Five, the top of the jack plate where it mounts to the transom is too high, and you have further amplified the cantilever effect on the transom. Overall, this is a lesson in how not to do it. The main thing you learn here is that getting that extra 1-2 inches really is not worth it. It is better to set up to have a highly reliable, safe, predictable, load flexible (one rider, two rider, etc.) boat, than to get that extra (perceived) 1-2 inches and live with all those problems. At the end of the day, that little bit more height translates into nothing meaningful in real world use. Most of the time you dont actually get less draft anyway. This is because when you set back the outboard the overall COG also goes back and it makes the rear bottom of the boat actually go deeper into the water column. You have to consider this in your rise/run formula. I am sure you will say I wrong and I dont know what I am talking about. Just my two cents.
@@toppin7114 LOL, I'm sorry that reading comprehension makes your head hurt. Also, math and science. Also, logical, well-laid out arguments. How many points did I make in the original comment? Five? How many did you make? One, and that point is that it is popular? Genius! Those addy's are making all the difference for you.
Thanks for the video. This definitely helped me decide on ordering the Mini Jacker today for my little 14ft fiberglass.
Nice rig. Perfect cavitation height, and perfect rpm for top speed.
I have a Tracker grizzly 1754. I just bought a 2021 Mercury 20hp efi motor. This is the first outboard ive ever owned. I was about to drill holes in the transom then decided to do more research. The dealer said i should permanently mount the motor so theres no chance of losing it. The cavitation plate is about 1/4" higher than the bottom of the boat. Do you think i should do some test runs first before i drill? I have to break it in 2hrs with no full throttle, just puttin' around. Then 8 hrs with very limited full throtttle to reach the 10hrs break in period.
Yes, I would test it before you drill holes. Just make sure it is clamped good with a lock or something through the clamps to prevent it coming off.
How did your 1754 perform with a 20? I was thinking of getting a 1648 with a 20 or a 1754 with a 30
@@johnalvarado1337 its kind of a dog, only hitting 12-15 full throttle with 2 men and full load, but thats ok with me!
Thanks for the feedback, as long as it gets you there! I ended up getting a 1648 grizzly with a 25hp Yamaha. Going to install a permatrim hydrofoil and either this mini jacker or an on the fly jack plate to run as shallow as possible
I’m thinking of mountain my jack plate at a similar height as yours . We’re you concerned about the extra stress on your hull? Would love to see a picture of the mount out of the water and see where you placed your bolts . Thanks for the video
I’d like to see the same. I’m in the same situation as well, that height is where mine needs to be and I’m worried about how high it is.
Hell yeah brother, nice vid
How many wholes did that take to mount? I could raise my motor slightly but I really need mine to be further back because my tiller arm hits the back of my seat
If you trimmed it up a bit with the pin you could probably throw a little rooster😂😂
Nice set up! I just got a grizzly 1448 the transom 17.5 inches it’s a little too high for a short shaft is a little too low for long shaft thinking I might have to do the same thing I don’t know I have used doel fins before I might try that works great to get it up on plane
Did you use a long shaft with it?
Can we get a video of where your cavitation plate is relative to the keel?
I don’t have the boat anymore. The cavitation plate sat 1 1/2” above the bottom of the boat. However, I lowered it back after this to 1” above the bottom and it ran the same as this 1 1/2” above.
looks good for shallow water!
Very helpful video - especially about where your cavitation plate sits. I have a Grizzly 1448 with a 25 Merc 4 stroke. It porpoises on plane. I have added sponsons to the stern for added flotation and I have just gotten an TH Marine/Atlas microjacker. This way i should be able to adjust the height on the water. We will see
Did you ever get that stoped? Mines doing that and trying to figure out what to do
Where did you originally have it set flush with the transom?
Really, really good video! But I'll never understand why folks have kill switches and don't use them?
Have an old flat bottom Jon boat with a 12 inch transom. Would this mini jacker allow me to use a short shaft outboard?
So to make sure I understand correctly - The boat you have is a Tracker Grizzly 1648 which was built with a 21" transom. You have a 20hp mercury that is a long shaft which is rated at 20", but they actually measure around 22-23". So you felt that the long shaft, was too long for the boat - and that's why you decided to go with the jack plate?
Yes, correct. The motor cavitation plate when placed straight on the transom hung about 4" too low. I had to use the jack plate to bring it up at least even with the bottom and then I just went from there to dial it in.
J Swoozy So if you had a short shaft motor that actually would work on the set up wouldn’t you agree? I don’t think you would need the jack plate. I have a 20 hp Suzuki and I’m going to buy a job boat. I just wanna make sure I pair the right one for a short shaft
@@jswoozy517 that is exactly where I was going with my question. I just purchased a "short shaft" mercury 20hp, and it actually measures about 23-24" from where the motor rests on the transom to the bottom of the lower unit. So to me that would be the same difference as what this guy was trying get by using the jackplate. Once you've got weight in the boat, the prop should sit about 4-5" under water and leave the cavitation plate where his was sitting with the jack plate
Correct, I did use the jack plate to bring the cavitation plate up to level or just above the bottom of the hull. I am not sure if a short shaft would work on this boat because I have not ever tried it. However, the jack plate also sets the motor back 4-6" I can't remember the exact measurement. In doing so, it allows for the motor to run in shallower and cleaner water. No matter if the motor sits at the right height or not, I always use a jack plate on my boats for these reasons.
My question is where do i knlwnwhere to start when i install ?
Did the mini jacker come with the green board you have on it or you put that on?
It comes with it. It is just a regular plywood board. I painted it with green oil based enamel to seal it.
How much speed did you gain ? I’ve got the same set up just a side console
My shaft is too short. Do you think you can turn the plate upside down to mount the motor lower on the transom?
No, it is not made to hold weight in that direction. The angles would be off as well.
J Swoozy That’s unfortunate. Going to make the DIY from tiny boat nation and set it four inches low so I don’t have to cut into the transom. Please advise otherwise before I’m finished lol
@@thomasr.stroheiii4672 I have the same problem. Every woman I've ever been with has told me that
Not gonna lie, pretty jealous of your setup. Maybe a Jackplate would help my setup but I ight be expecting too much due to weight of my boat. I just put on a 10p stainless prop and looking forward to testing it out. Did you go with the 12p Mercury/Quicksilver?
MVB Outdoors Where is your cavitation plate located in relation to the bottom of your hull? The only reason I got the jack plate was because before it, the cavitation plate was almost 4” below the bottom...I went with a 12p Solas prop. It was half the price of the quicksilver.
@@jswoozy517 The plate sits around 1-2" below, not as bad as your setup it sounds. I took the boat out yesterday to try the 10p stainless and it was noticeably faster. Fully loaded we got up to 23-24mph from 19-21mph but when it was just me I took it for a spin and hit 27mph! Also, I'm sitting in the 6100-6200 RPM range so I think I might have room for an 11p or maybe even 12p prop like you have going!
MVB Outdoors Gotcha, mine sits about 1 1/2” above the bottom of the boat. I gained 300rpms just by moving it up that extra 1”. Sounds to me like you have yours dialed in perfectly!
How shallow of water can you run with this setup?
20hp 08 merc 12p 1548 grizzly no jake plate two battery's gear and trolling motor 27mph. Upgrading to 25hp Yamaha 12p with jack plate and lithium battery's expecting 33mph+ Still keeping the 20 for local hp restricted lakes to also see what a Jack plate does to top end.
What kind of weight do you have in your boat to get 26 mhp
Maybe 250-300lbs total. Just me, trolling motor, battery and tackle boxes. The key is weight distribution and the right height for the motor. Keeping the battery up front helps a lot.
What size is the prop dia.thx
I don’t have this boat anymore but it was whatever the stock prop size is for that motor when it is sold.
short shaft?
Long shaft
Is your water pump inlet even getting water into it
Don't you see it peeing
What is the model number of the boat in the video?
It’s a 1648 tracker grizzly.
Did you drill bottom bolts in it for the motor?
Yes, I bolted the motor to the jack plate using the 2 holes on the motor.
Do you think 20 go is enough for that boat?
1 fast boat my 2 year old son sais boater
Pretty sure jack plates are not supported on Trackers (and most jon boats), and void's the hull warranty. Having said that if you were on the lower end of the HP and weight limit with your outboard, you will probably be fine with a simple jack plate with minimal set back. But if you are near the HP and weight limit with your outboard, keep in mind that the chances you will irreparably damage the transom go up dramatically and this will not be a covered repair/replacement. Looking at this installation, you mounted it too high by quite a bit. I would say at least 1.5-2 inches. This is based on several observations and experience. One, your anti-cav plate is too high in the water column at top speed. This will cause at least two main problems. Your risk of starving the water pump impeller is high thus greatly increasing the chance for an overheat and high speed turns will be difficult to perform without a blow out. Two, because the outboard COG is so high this will make the boat more tippy at slow/stop. Three, when you add a passenger or other weight up front, the anti-cav will be raised even further out of the water column and the overheat/blow out risk will be amplified even more. Four, if it gets rough at all and you start proposing, its overheat/blow out city. Five, the top of the jack plate where it mounts to the transom is too high, and you have further amplified the cantilever effect on the transom. Overall, this is a lesson in how not to do it. The main thing you learn here is that getting that extra 1-2 inches really is not worth it. It is better to set up to have a highly reliable, safe, predictable, load flexible (one rider, two rider, etc.) boat, than to get that extra (perceived) 1-2 inches and live with all those problems. At the end of the day, that little bit more height translates into nothing meaningful in real world use. Most of the time you dont actually get less draft anyway. This is because when you set back the outboard the overall COG also goes back and it makes the rear bottom of the boat actually go deeper into the water column. You have to consider this in your rise/run formula. I am sure you will say I wrong and I dont know what I am talking about. Just my two cents.
So jack plates that raise the motor 5-6 inches are trouble waiting to happen? Seems to be quite popular
@@toppin7114 I guess very thorough explanations are just not your thing.
I can just see what a dumb fuck you are but hey that's normal on the web lmao🤡🤡🤡
@@toppin7114 LOL, I'm sorry that reading comprehension makes your head hurt. Also, math and science. Also, logical, well-laid out arguments. How many points did I make in the original comment? Five? How many did you make? One, and that point is that it is popular? Genius! Those addy's are making all the difference for you.
Muy buena explicación, me gustaría mandarte un vídeo para que me des tu opinión de la altura de mi motor, puede ser?