Planing Beams with Electric Hand Plane - How to Attach Planer Jig

With the hand planer jig, it is possible to flatten timber frame beams, or very wide boards.
Lumber height can be adjusted precisely.
This video builds on my first video, where I showed how to make a base frame with a sled.
Here you can see how to attach the jig to an electric hand planer.
The accuracy of your jig will depend on the rigidity of the frame. If you use an aluminum profiles, you can plane very, very wide boards.
In my opinion, for "weekend woodworkers", this jig is just perfect. It is cheap and precise. You do not have to buy machine planer. However, for professional use it is too slow.
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Here is a link to the first video mentioned earlier: • Planing wide Boards or...
#diyprojects #woodworkingtools

[@roydom5]

Great, thanks for sharing your creative ideas. Much appreciate the camera close ups and details. I’ll definitely use this idea!

[@architechdesign]

No problem. Definitely give it a shot. I enjoyed planing beams even more than planing boards.

[@JimPudar]

Really great idea, never seen this before. Will definitely try this out next time I need to flatten something very long!

[@chrismcg7856]

Brilliant. Thanks so much for putting this out.

[@architechdesign]

I'm happy to help!

[@variacenavsiav9945]

Super idea. Thank you.👍🙂🙂👍

[@Funknwanker]

That might be one of the best ideas ever.

[@theoriginalmonstermaker]

Ingenious idea! And whenever a 'maker ' displays the skill And resourcefulness to make their creative idea a reality, they deserve credit, and respect for sharing their process w others
.... BUT, i think you could've easily made some improvements: being that the end to end degree of level (in the board currently being processed) may be affected by either the planner 'arms' lifting off the ' running beams; i think you could've saved yourself the effort (and potential inconsistency of not applying ample and controlled downwards pressure)b by simply connecting those 2 boards... i know they need to move freely, but if you just had a ,L bracket attached to end of planner arm, the bottom of L riding along bottom of runners, they'd be kept from lifting, and you wouldn't need to constantly pay attention to that (and again, thiose runners are petty long and relatively thin wood... so if you don't apply pressure, the planner may lift... and if you DO, there's possibility of 'runners' flexing (and that may lead to low spot in middle of processed board.... So i bet you could've fixed that by making those outer runners out of square tubing.
But regardless, it's a great concept, and you can continually improve design!

[@tmarticle2065]

Thanks for the beautiful video

[@architechdesign]

My pleasure. Your videos are also nice. I was watching how you work with a scroll saw. I am now a CNC guy, impatient, too digital, but it reminds me of my childhood, when I also worked with a scroll saw.

[@josefranciscorojasluna3757]

Really great idea,

[@rolands4175]

👌

[@ericlipps7152]

I think the cell phone has tapped into my conscience, just picked up a oak beam yesterday.

[@sergueiothonucci1638]

😃😃😃😃😃

[@karltaylor486]

Can I ask how thick your metal poles are and how thick the wooden beams are?
I have bought some wooden beams at 25mm wide/thick. So with a 12mm rod, I've got 13mm of clearance, but wondering if a 10mm rod would be strong enough

[@karltaylor486]

I guess I can try with the 10mm rod, and if not stable, go up to a 12, not the other way round 😅

[@architechdesign]

The metal bars have a diameter of 10 mm. Wooden studs are 30 x 18 x 1000 mm. I certainly wouldn't try studs thinner than 30 mm (for 1000 mm length). A deflection would occur.

[@Goodellsam]

I don't get it. You have a drill press, but you use a hand drill.

[@BigSteelThrill]

You sell these? 😘

[@architechdesign]

I don't sell

[@BigSteelThrill]

@@architechdesign Thank you for the reply. No worries. Keep on choppin!