Was always wondering, why planers cannot be mounted to rods like routers. Great solution to the Problem: Planers should have a much better cut quality than routers for the bigger diameter of the cutting tool.
Looks like a good alternative to the router flattening jigs out there. Way faster as plane has way more cutting area, unless you go with monster router bits...
I know I'm way behind the times, but I'm only just venturing out into the world of woodworking. Your videos are truly amazing and instructional, thank you
Love it! but I thought you were going to lose a finger reaching for that bevel cutoff on the table saw! Looks like you have it down to a science - but knowing myself i might slide the planer too far to one side and have the bars slip off the guide rails. I'd have to put some sort of stopper on the end of the bars to help prevent that.
Great video J...and a great innovation. Maybe some day tool makers will think like tool users and things like this will come with the tools we buy. Until then, we have you showing us how things cane be done if we think a bit and try new ideas. Really well done my friend.
Awesome idea! Thanks for sharing. I have an 8 foot long workbench slab to flatten and am planning to use this with some 10 foot unistrut as my side rails. In thinking about this it seems like the guide rail on the back of the planer is not necessary since the back plate behind the blades will limit the depth of cut.
Actually none of it is necessary. That was a whole lot of work that a couple planes, winding sticks, and a makita electric planer would do just fine (probably better) than trying machine something as if 3/8 steel rods don’t flex or bend. If you need that much production in flattening boards you need a jointer and / or an electric planer. Hand planes don’t take that long on small projects. I flattened a 5’ side table top last night in about 5 minutes with a smooth plane. Needs 5-10 more minutes with my jointer plane to be ready to sand or perhaps even leave the jointer plane finish. I do not own an electric jointer nor an electric thickness planer.
Ok, the solution is easy and straight forward. But: I would make some stoppers at the end of the metal rods to prevent them from slipping of the wooden bars. Also I would have liked some mechanism to change the hight so I could define the thickness of the workpiece. As for now I get a nice surface but this doesn´t help if the workpiece still is too thick. Exept for this it is a great video. Thx 4 sharing. Greetings from Switzerland 🇨🇭
They should make planers with this added feature. Even if they didn't provide the rod, at least provide the 2 holes that aligns back and front, with maybe a steel pipe kind of fitting inside with various thickness. This was if the hole made is too big or small from the rod you can find where you are u can switch the pipe with different thickness, like a thicker one to fit a smaller rod etc. With a jig like this, it would make planing larger and wider boards much more consistent and accurate.
I love vids like this, it shows ways I can use my limited set of tools to do things that would normally require more sophisticated toots. BUT, they (almost) always require other sophisticated and expensive tools, that I haven't got, to build. I sometimes feel that the people showing me this stuff are building kit they they don;t need because they already have a ton of great kit. Just sayin' :O)
Routers have one advantage. You can adjust the depth of cut much more easily than with this setup, which if I have understood correctly relies on packing up the board from below. Which isnt so easy, especially if the faces are not parallel.
Brilliant. Next, expand the same concept, using long aluminum box extrusions (e.g. 80/20) as support/reference rails, and motorized head from cannibalized 12" lunchbox thickness planer. 10 times faster than typical router sled, plus readily executable dust collection via planer's dust port.
@@j-woodworking9573 Please let me know if you succeed in creating this type of planing machine. I thought of doing it many years ago, before I had more industrial equipment. But I was always too busy with client work and other invention projects to get around to it. Since then, I've seen a RUclips video by a man in Russian who did what you've done, but with a wider electric hand plane. A 12" planer head would make short work of most jobs. One detail you might consider: presuming you end up stripping down a 12" planer with straight knives, I think it might prove a worthwhile refinement to mount the head at a slight skew angle to the direction of the carriage travel. A shearing cut would reduce power requirement somewhat and, more importantly, provide much cleaner results, especially on highly figured stock, than a straight knife entry. Good luck! BTW, the execution of your current model is impressive.
I'm trying to come up with alternatives to buying an expensive jointer planer combo.. so watching your video, looking good... And you have the same Jet JPT-310 there on the background that I've almost ordered, lol. I know, you can do wider pieces with this jig If I may ask, which is noisier: the Makita or the Jet? Do you have the helical head or straight knives?
Brilliant, man! Fantastic work! 😃 I confess I don't like the idea of gluing the piece of wood in the back of the planer, but... I really don't see any other way. 😕 Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
It would take not much effort to drill two 6mm holes in the back of the planer and bolt/screw the block on. I''ve made a sled to use my router on wide boards but the tiniest amount of flex in the sled results in a step in the board. I wonder how much movement will come from the 10mm rods. Maybe planing longitudinally is better than cross-cutting with the router?
At least in my Makita larger than this hand planer, model 1912B, a full 4 3/8" wide planer; the rear of the body has enough space for drilling the required holes, and also perhaps, for a pair of bushings slightly larger pipe bushings, so that the plastic body is not worn against the steel rods!
Buen trabajo , una regruesadora casera muy original , gracias por compartir tanta creatividad , un saludo cordial y por supuesto un gran like desde Narón , Galicia ( España) 🤓 😜
Мне с самого начала стало страшно смотреть ваш ролик. Такое ощущение, что у вас на каждой руке по 10 пальцев. Работать болгаркой без защитного кожуха может только человек у которого в запасе есть ещё две руки и 4 глаза.
A rubber band on each side of the metal rod will keep the rod from sliding...or you could use a round metal rod bushing with screw to lock it in place. Neat video. Thank You!!
I think it's supposed to slip a little. You can see how he pulls them out bit by bit as he moves on to the next "track" when he's planing. That way he can use shorter rods. Theoretically if you had a rigid frame and washers at the ends of the rods (so they only slide forwards/backwards), you could see the planer as the only part that allows sideways motion. It would be able to slide right and left on the rods, while the rods would slide forwards an backwards on the frame. I think I'd build it that way.
Looking to buy an electric hand planer-which brands/models would work for something like this? I haven’t been able to come up with a way to mount cross bars to most of the planers available online. Great video, BTW!
was wondering how youp manage to adjust for different thickness boards. Is it just a mater of spacers underneath the board to be planed or something with the rails? Thanks for this great video!
real minimalism at work here. focus and simplify the problem and solution so you can maximize your capacity to solve other problems. the result is very close to planer results with little or no extra sanding
Brilliant! I noticed some did make the comment that the back block on the planer wasn't required since the back plate behind the blades is controlling the depth of cut. Is that correct? Also, what sort of glue did you use to stick the back block on the planer? You have let me defer buying a planer/thicknesser to another day thank you.
Since the front rod is ahead of the blade, wouldn’t the back keep rotating down and taking cuts if the back rod wasn’t there so the back rod stops the back dropping and lifts the blade clear when the set thickness is reached
@@1988dgs how could it keep rotating down when the whole back plate ("shoe") is sitting on the freshly cut surface? In order for the cutter to drop lower as it moves forward, the back of the shoe would have to somehow drop down even lower than where the cutter is, which is impossible since it sits on top of what has already been cut
Maybe I'm missing something. But I don't have much trouble flattening boards just using the hand planer itself without any jigs. I mean, that kind of what it is designed for.
I see what you mean...i was thinking the same thing, flat is generally fine for my projects, but now I'm thinking this method makes it Perfectly flat... I'm not that picky, but i like this...
Nice and easy. I don't know how easy that steel may flex, but it could be easily reinforced by pushing the rods through some wood, although it will lose the ability to slide those rods through the tool for adjustment.
Brilhante ideia. Meus parabéns e gratidão por compartilhar. Faço tábuas de corte e tenho dificuldade de plainar. Vou copiar seu projeto imediatamente. Espero que funcione com madeira dura.
@@reginaldoserra8944 ainda não meu caro , estou terminando uma encomenda de uma mesa de escritório e sinceramente tenho apanhado muito kkkkk Vou começar a produzir umas tábuas no meio de março e vou copiar seu projeto. Obrigado e grande abraço
Well done, Sir! I really like your imaginative solution👏👏👏 Like some other commentators here, I wonder about the best way to height-adjust. The options that occur to me are: • have a selection of ‘wooden feet’ that are of slightly different heights, for the wooden side pieces… and inter-change them as the piece you’re working on gets thinner; or • instead of using one long wooden piece on each side, use two - with vertical slots in both ends of each pair so you could connect them and adjust the height using a bolt and washer/nut though the slots (hard to describe without a picture! 😬😖😂) Also, was that hot glue you used to connect the wood piece to the back of the planer, or something else? Again, brilliant idea and thanks for posting👍👏
the steel rod needs to be stiff enough so that it does not bend to the weight of the planer, especially when suspended tight in the middle. I think there is a limit on how long the rods should be before it yields and starts drooping, affecting the consistency of the depth of the shaving.
Bro I needed this one for real lol right on time ! My planer would have done this but it’s more specifically a great trick for slabs . . . That router one doesn’t look awesome
please please please always use push sticks at the router table. One time I did exactly what you were doing and the wood launched! my fingers were pulled into the router bit. I got very lucky and only lost a chunk of my finger but you may not be so lucky.
Muy buena alternativa para los que recién comenzamos este oficio. Una consulta, qué pegamento debo usar para estar seguro que no se despegue mientras trabajo? Gracias.
![planing wide boards perfectly with electric hand planer / amazing way of planing [woodworking]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Mp2vSodcTOQ/mqdefault.jpg)
![planing wide boards perfectly with electric hand planer / amazing way of planing [woodworking]](/img/tr.png)
Something very simple and very practical, never ceases to amaze me, congratulations
Was always wondering, why planers cannot be mounted to rods like routers.
Great solution to the Problem: Planers should have a much better cut quality than routers for the bigger diameter of the cutting tool.
Thanks for watching sir.
Well done J ! I admire your clever ideas and attention to detail. Thank you for sharing this with an excellent video. 👍🏼
Thanks for watching sir.
Looks like a good alternative to the router flattening jigs out there. Way faster as plane has way more cutting area, unless you go with monster router bits...
Thanks for watching sir.
With Router though you get much more precise work. This is still kinda free hand work with plane lifting it up and all.
@@milkod2001 Not exactly. how are you going to mess it up if the planner is all the time at a constant height??
Clever planing jig. We shared this video in our homemade tools forum this week :)
I really enjoy your channel! Thank you for putting it all together and sharing your knowledge.
I think it’s a great idea. No nonsense, very worthy. Whatever else you do I’m sure it is also. You have good taste in tools.
You have saved me a BUNCH of money...thanks for sharing this, buddy.
The cinematography and the whole process is amazing! Everything is so technical!
I know I'm way behind the times, but I'm only just venturing out into the world of woodworking.
Your videos are truly amazing and instructional, thank you
Thanks for this excellent idea. How long does the glue keep the rear piece attached? Does it move after 30, 60, or 120 minutes of use, for example?
Great idea. Be careful with the angle grinder. The way you are using it can cost you fingers
Excellent videos and craftsmanship; well done Sir!
Love it! but I thought you were going to lose a finger reaching for that bevel cutoff on the table saw!
Looks like you have it down to a science - but knowing myself i might slide the planer too far to one side and have the bars slip off the guide rails. I'd have to put some sort of stopper on the end of the bars to help prevent that.
this is so unthinkable. really creative modification
Great video J...and a great innovation. Maybe some day tool makers will think like tool users and things like this will come with the tools we buy. Until then, we have you showing us how things cane be done if we think a bit and try new ideas. Really well done my friend.
⁶
Brilliant. Definitely trying this the first chance I get.
Very interesting idea. Thanks!
Awesome idea! Thanks for sharing. I have an 8 foot long workbench slab to flatten and am planning to use this with some 10 foot unistrut as my side rails. In thinking about this it seems like the guide rail on the back of the planer is not necessary since the back plate behind the blades will limit the depth of cut.
Actually none of it is necessary. That was a whole lot of work that a couple planes, winding sticks, and a makita electric planer would do just fine (probably better) than trying machine something as if 3/8 steel rods don’t flex or bend.
If you need that much production in flattening boards you need a jointer and / or an electric planer.
Hand planes don’t take that long on small projects. I flattened a 5’ side table top last night in about 5 minutes with a smooth plane. Needs 5-10 more minutes with my jointer plane to be ready to sand or perhaps even leave the jointer plane finish. I do not own an electric jointer nor an electric thickness planer.
Olá, ótima idéia,eu tive essa idéia e agora vendo esse vídeo ficou fácil colocar em prática
Great job as usual J & that looks like a very handy jig for that hand planer! 👍👍👏👏
Thanks for watching sir.
Excelente ideia amigo 👍👍 parabéns 👏👏.🇧🇷🇧🇷🇧🇷
rewelacyjna robota
Ok, the solution is easy and straight forward. But: I would make some stoppers at the end of the metal rods to prevent them from slipping of the wooden bars. Also I would have liked some mechanism to change the hight so I could define the thickness of the workpiece. As for now I get a nice surface but this doesn´t help if the workpiece still is too thick. Exept for this it is a great video.
Thx 4 sharing.
Greetings from Switzerland 🇨🇭
They should make planers with this added feature. Even if they didn't provide the rod, at least provide the 2 holes that aligns back and front, with maybe a steel pipe kind of fitting inside with various thickness. This was if the hole made is too big or small from the rod you can find where you are u can switch the pipe with different thickness, like a thicker one to fit a smaller rod etc.
With a jig like this, it would make planing larger and wider boards much more consistent and accurate.
Alcuni produttori le fanno
This idea is simple great. I think about combining it with my doghole bench as a basis for fixing the workpiece. :) Thank you very much.
Thanks for watching sir.
Most excellent sir! My full admiration!
Hello, it was a very interesting idea, I will definitely make this jig for myself, thanks for this video
I love vids like this, it shows ways I can use my limited set of tools to do things that would normally require more sophisticated toots. BUT, they (almost) always require other sophisticated and expensive tools, that I haven't got, to build. I sometimes feel that the people showing me this stuff are building kit they they don;t need because they already have a ton of great kit. Just sayin' :O)
Brilliant.This is my next build.Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching sir.
Супер идея!!! Обязательно повторю!!! Спасибо!!!
It's such a great idea and so simple. Great work.
Thanks for watching sir.
Great idea much better than a router and way faster
Great video, great jig. Bravo !
Наконец-то увидел достойное уважения устройство. Никаких излишеств, все сведено к минимуму. Иду в магазин за электрорубанком.
Absolutely brilliant! Never understood why people used router sleds and other methods. This is much quicker and easier.
Thanks for watching sir.
Routers have one advantage. You can adjust the depth of cut much more easily than with this setup, which if I have understood correctly relies on packing up the board from below. Which isnt so easy, especially if the faces are not parallel.
@@richardsinger01 measure from to rails,shim board on spacers and get a happy medium.Plane,turn around and you should be alright?
Brilliant. Next, expand the same concept, using long aluminum box extrusions (e.g. 80/20) as support/reference rails, and motorized head from cannibalized 12" lunchbox thickness planer. 10 times faster than typical router sled, plus readily executable dust collection via planer's dust port.
Thanks for your helpful tip sir.
@@j-woodworking9573 Please let me know if you succeed in creating this type of planing machine. I thought of doing it many years ago, before I had more industrial equipment. But I was always too busy with client work and other invention projects to get around to it. Since then, I've seen a RUclips video by a man in Russian who did what you've done, but with a wider electric hand plane. A 12" planer head would make short work of most jobs. One detail you might consider: presuming you end up stripping down a 12" planer with straight knives, I think it might prove a worthwhile refinement to mount the head at a slight skew angle to the direction of the carriage travel. A shearing cut would reduce power requirement somewhat and, more importantly, provide much cleaner results, especially on highly figured stock, than a straight knife entry. Good luck! BTW, the execution of your current model is impressive.
That's a great idea! Especially since the lunch box style planers are typically much cheaper than the really large handheld electric planers.
High Technology, High Skill, and Masterpiece. Thank's you information.
Thanks for watching sir.
Well hello from Texas. Nice job 👍🏽 sir. Thanks for sharing.
I'm trying to come up with alternatives to buying an expensive jointer planer combo.. so watching your video, looking good... And you have the same Jet JPT-310 there on the background that I've almost ordered, lol. I know, you can do wider pieces with this jig
If I may ask, which is noisier: the Makita or the Jet? Do you have the helical head or straight knives?
Excellent idea! Do you use shims under the piece to prevent it twisting on side one? Anything to prevent it from sliding forward?
Yes, I do.
Thanks for watching sir.
What adhesive did you use to mount the rear wooden block onto the planer.
Thanks
넓은 판재 전기 대패 밀때마다 불편했었는데, 아이디어 좋으시네요 굿굿👍👍👍
감사합니다.
I would buy this as an aftermarket kit.
Wide slabs are all the rage…
Planing them down is just rage.
Thanks for watching sir.
Admirable!!!
Daaaaa
Super ideea
Great like from România
Brilliant, man! Fantastic work! 😃
I confess I don't like the idea of gluing the piece of wood in the back of the planer, but... I really don't see any other way. 😕
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thanks for watching sir.
Always appreciate your kind comment.
It would take not much effort to drill two 6mm holes in the back of the planer and bolt/screw the block on. I''ve made a sled to use my router on wide boards but the tiniest amount of flex in the sled results in a step in the board. I wonder how much movement will come from the 10mm rods. Maybe planing longitudinally is better than cross-cutting with the router?
At least in my Makita larger than this hand planer, model 1912B, a full 4 3/8" wide planer; the rear of the body has enough space for drilling the required holes, and also perhaps, for a pair of bushings slightly larger pipe bushings, so that the plastic body is not worn against the steel rods!
Buen trabajo , una regruesadora casera muy original , gracias por compartir tanta creatividad , un saludo cordial y por supuesto un gran like desde Narón , Galicia ( España) 🤓 😜
Thanks for watching sir.
Nice! How come you put paper under the work piece? Did you max out the deph om your plainer?
Just a little advice.
If you use a saws all with a metal blade.
It will take you like three seconds to cut that metal pipe.
Dear Sir
It's very nice and perfect👍👍👍👍
Simple, yet great idea.
Thanks for watching sir.
와우~ 간단하면서도 완벽한 아이디어~ 저도 전기대패하나 있는데 해보고 싶네요~
감사합니다.
Too good!
Keep 'er lit Bro!
That is a very practical and neat trick to plane wood. Thank you. Enjoyed video.
Мне с самого начала стало страшно смотреть ваш ролик. Такое ощущение, что у вас на каждой руке по 10 пальцев. Работать болгаркой без защитного кожуха может только человек у которого в запасе есть ещё две руки и 4 глаза.
Awesome. Way better alternative to doing it with a router!! Maybe manufacturers will adopt this.
Thanks for watching sir.
A rubber band on each side of the metal rod will keep the rod from sliding...or you could use a round metal rod bushing with screw to lock it in place. Neat video. Thank You!!
Thanks for your kind tips sir.
I think it's supposed to slip a little. You can see how he pulls them out bit by bit as he moves on to the next "track" when he's planing. That way he can use shorter rods.
Theoretically if you had a rigid frame and washers at the ends of the rods (so they only slide forwards/backwards), you could see the planer as the only part that allows sideways motion. It would be able to slide right and left on the rods, while the rods would slide forwards an backwards on the frame. I think I'd build it that way.
Looking to buy an electric hand planer-which brands/models would work for something like this? I haven’t been able to come up with a way to mount cross bars to most of the planers available online. Great video, BTW!
was wondering how youp manage to adjust for different thickness boards. Is it just a mater of spacers underneath the board to be planed or something with the rails? Thanks for this great video!
I use spacers and use cardes for fine adjustment. Thanks for watching sir.
Parabéns , genial !!!!
Very clever solution!
real minimalism at work here. focus and simplify the problem and solution so you can maximize your capacity to solve other problems. the result is very close to planer results with little or no extra sanding
Bem legal !! Ganhou mais um inscrito !!!
Good Job ! Now you can add a few screws on the standoff wood you used under the workpiece to adjust for different thicknesses of workpiece..
This is gold ❤️
champion thankyou and a great idea buddy!!!
That took a long time to get there, but damn, what a fine result.
Well it worked really good
Buen invento.que sencillo y super practico
Great video I've seen similar things with a router but this is better.
Brilliant! I noticed some did make the comment that the back block on the planer wasn't required since the back plate behind the blades is controlling the depth of cut. Is that correct? Also, what sort of glue did you use to stick the back block on the planer?
You have let me defer buying a planer/thicknesser to another day thank you.
Since the front rod is ahead of the blade, wouldn’t the back keep rotating down and taking cuts if the back rod wasn’t there so the back rod stops the back dropping and lifts the blade clear when the set thickness is reached
@@1988dgs how could it keep rotating down when the whole back plate ("shoe") is sitting on the freshly cut surface? In order for the cutter to drop lower as it moves forward, the back of the shoe would have to somehow drop down even lower than where the cutter is, which is impossible since it sits on top of what has already been cut
Show de bola 👏👏👏👏
You are a genius.....
PERFECT for track saws
How do you accommodate different thickness boards?
Maybe I'm missing something. But I don't have much trouble flattening boards just using the hand planer itself without any jigs. I mean, that kind of what it is designed for.
I see what you mean...i was thinking the same thing, flat is generally fine for my projects, but now I'm thinking this method makes it Perfectly flat... I'm not that picky, but i like this...
That's if you have that skill. I've never figured out how to use a planer to make a board flat with each pass level with the previous one.
Nice video. Well done. Are both sides parallel to each other this way?
thanks for the toturial very helpful for me
hello new friend
Thanks for watching sir.
Simple and clever solution.
Nice and easy. I don't know how easy that steel may flex, but it could be easily reinforced by pushing the rods through some wood, although it will lose the ability to slide those rods through the tool for adjustment.
Good IDEA brathers 👍👍
Thanks for watching brother.
3:42 You need a SawStop if you're going to keep doing that.
Gran idea. Excelente
Thanks for watching sir.
사용하신 전기대패 모델 알수 있을까요?
저도 도전 해 보렵니다😂
Very clever idea!
Thanks for watching sir.
Nice! Good idea.
Thanks for watching sir.
Magnífico 👍
Thanks for watching sir.
Brilhante ideia. Meus parabéns e gratidão por compartilhar. Faço tábuas de corte e tenho dificuldade de plainar. Vou copiar seu projeto imediatamente. Espero que funcione com madeira dura.
Marcus 🇧🇷
Thanks for watching sir.
E aí Marcus, vc fez o Jig para suas tábuas? Deu certo?
@@reginaldoserra8944 ainda não meu caro , estou terminando uma encomenda de uma mesa de escritório e sinceramente tenho apanhado muito kkkkk
Vou começar a produzir umas tábuas no meio de março e vou copiar seu projeto. Obrigado e grande abraço
Well done, Sir! I really like your imaginative solution👏👏👏 Like some other commentators here, I wonder about the best way to height-adjust. The options that occur to me are:
• have a selection of ‘wooden feet’ that are of slightly different heights, for the wooden side pieces… and inter-change them as the piece you’re working on gets thinner; or
• instead of using one long wooden piece on each side, use two - with vertical slots in both ends of each pair so you could connect them and adjust the height using a bolt and washer/nut though the slots (hard to describe without a picture! 😬😖😂)
Also, was that hot glue you used to connect the wood piece to the back of the planer, or something else?
Again, brilliant idea and thanks for posting👍👏
It looked like silicone sealant to me.
Super ideia gostei mesmo um forte abraço do ateliemaritom, 🇧🇷🇧🇷🇧🇷🇧🇷🇧🇷
Thanks for watching sir.
Awesome!!!
the steel rod needs to be stiff enough so that it does not bend to the weight of the planer, especially when suspended tight in the middle. I think there is a limit on how long the rods should be before it yields and starts drooping, affecting the consistency of the depth of the shaving.
Ok
3:45 Crazy!!!!!
Very nice brow 👍👍
이번에 전기대패를 하나 구매했는데..
목재의 옆면 같은 좁은 면은 쉽게 가공이 되는데 넓은 면은 자꾸 파먹게 되더라구요.
영상보면서 저도 만들어보고 싶다는 생각이 드네요.
그렇지만 갖고 있는 장비가 넉넉치 않아 어떻게 따라할 수 있을까 고민도 되네요..ㅜ
Süper 👏👏👏
Bro I needed this one for real lol right on time ! My planer would have done this but it’s more specifically a great trick for slabs . . . That router one doesn’t look awesome
Thanks for watching sir.
please please please always use push sticks at the router table. One time I did exactly what you were doing and the wood launched! my fingers were pulled into the router bit. I got very lucky and only lost a chunk of my finger but you may not be so lucky.
what glue did you use for the slanted wood on the back?
Silicon glue.
Thanks for watching sir.
Muy buena alternativa para los que recién comenzamos este oficio. Una consulta, qué pegamento debo usar para estar seguro que no se despegue mientras trabajo? Gracias.
Também quero saber qual cola foi usado.