TOYOTA 3.4L Timing Belt / Water Pump V6 tundra tacoma 4runner t100 5VZ-FE Part2
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- Опубликовано: 10 сен 2024
- On Amazon:
*3.4L TIMING KITS: amzn.to/2Gg7BGS
*DAYCO KIT I USED: amzn.to/2vq86M0
*(3) ACCESSORY BELTS: amzn.to/31uxBrh
*CRANK HOLDER TOOL: amzn.to/3816Cpv
*CAM HOLDER TOOL: amzn.to/2XXzide
*LISLE SPILL FREE FUNNEL KIT: amzn.to/32yr6nd
*MECHANICS TOOL SET: amzn.to/2NctGIC
*CRANK PULLEY PULLER: amzn.to/2OuuKZX
*LISLE TAP HOLDER SET: amzn.to/381T7WH
*PERMATEX THE RIGHT STUFF: amzn.to/2XXsJLY
THIS VIDEO IS ULTRA FAST PACED. THINK I HAD TOO MUCH COFFEE BEFOREHAND! LOL. Lots of good info and tips in this vid though. Just be ready to pause it. :)
~PART 1 VIDEO HERE: • TOYOTA 3.4L 5VZ-FE Tim... `
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Thank you!! About a month went by and I was not confident in the reassemble of my 4runner after replacing the water pump. you made a daunting task look easy! Thanks again, I needed that!!!
You make this job look easy! I lined up the 2 cam pulleys and crank pulley with the marks on the belt, rotated the engine 2x and then the marks on all 3 of them were off by 2 teeth.
Spoke with a Toyota mechanic, he said it takes about 700 revolutions for it to line back up..this scared me at first until he told me it was okay.
Also, the A/C compressor bracket is a son of a bitch to get back on (and take off). If anyone is doing this job, please, try to use the swivel and extension with someone else's help to get the tensioner bolts off - rear bolt from underneath the truck. It will save you a couple hours of work and frustration, no joke.
Thanks for the video. I watched several videos and you were the only one to mention the 10mm 1.25 threads to get the crankshaft pulley out. This really helped. I had to tap the threads and sent my son to HD to grab bolts. Needless to say, used a puller to get the pulley out. It was rusted on. Thanks again,
I think you hit your goal; "a fast paced video designed for experienced DIYER's". Well done, and thanks!
a little too fast for me.
Great vid! It's been a few years since I did my last timing belt/water pump and this video helped me get my mind straight for my Tacoma and prepare....In addition, it's nice to see how you order the removal of components and saves me from a more trial-n-error approach.
On Amazon:
*3.4L TIMING KITS: amzn.to/2Gg7BGS
*DAYCO KIT I USED: amzn.to/2vq86M0
*(3) ACCESSORY BELTS: amzn.to/31uxBrh
*CRANK HOLDER TOOL: amzn.to/3816Cpv
*CAM HOLDER TOOL: amzn.to/2XXzide
*LISLE SPILL FREE FUNNEL KIT: amzn.to/32yr6nd
*MECHANICS TOOL SET: amzn.to/2NctGIC
*CRANK PULLEY PULLER: amzn.to/2OuuKZX
*LISLE TAP HOLDER SET: amzn.to/381T7WH
*PERMATEX THE RIGHT STUFF: amzn.to/2XXsJLY
~PART 1 VIDEO HERE: ruclips.net/video/n9kzzVUmlBM/видео.html
I have a 04 tundra 3.4 v6 . Your link for the dayco kit says it doesn’t fit on Amazon?
Wow, this is exactly what I needed. By keeping the video to 8m30s you made this very quick reference friendly.
I always shoot to keep the how-to videos as short as possible. I appreciate you dropping a comment and I'm glad it was helpful to you
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow 221,000 and still rolling on my 5VZ because of how much Toyota people care about their trucks, and how willing they are to help others in the same niche
Thanks man! no nonsense crap I don't need to see. Thanks RUclips University
Spill proof funnel FTMFW! They are worth there weight in gold. Lisle makes a good product and a nice selection of specialty tools. That funnel, the trim clip tools, impact screwdriver, impact master torx socket set, and the serp belt tool alone are some of my most used 'specialty' stuff that I've owned. The quality is good and the price is reasonable on the Lisle stuff as well. I bought the majority of mine at Sears when they were still in business around here. Good DIY. T-belt/ water pump/ t-stat jobs are some of the most important maintenance jobs on pretty much anything, except if it has a chain instead. Lol then its plastic guide rails, and tensioners that fail instead along with stretched chains.
Best video by far for me ! Save me from having leaking thermostat since I put gasket oring then then then thermostat and knew it was weird so it's still fully open so I can go put the oring over thermostat. My Dad was right as always saying .." going leak " something not right ! He's always right ..I never learn. So thank you .your the only one with those instructions that I could find and I watched a lot of videos. This first job going into the engine this deep . So thank you for great vid.
Happy to hear you found it useful. Thanks for dropping a comment!
Lisle tools are great. Affordable and simple tools made right here in Iowa!
So many timing belt is done in you tube i think I understand more of ur procedure straight fwd no b/s😎🦾 awesome job
Thanks Nelson
Hey thanks a lot for these two videos. I set my iPad on the intake and went through it step by step. Great videos and you saved me a ton of bacon in labor!
No problem man! Glad to to hear they helped you out. I know I went pretty fast especially in the second one. But glad to know that they are still useful vids. thx
Like others said great video, two things I like to mention, buy a Toyota thermostat no matter what it cost, the aftermarket ones are going to fail and you know how much work it takes to replace it, you forgot to say to pull the tensioner pin. it is very important, but thank you for making this video.
Hey I followed your guide but I lost a 6", 1/4" drive extension. You made it seem like I'd find them all no problem if I did it along with you.
HEY JIMMMMAYYYYY
i have a 2003 v6 . i thought 60 k was early also . took cover off and looked at my belt at 70k -looked new still. will wait till 90 or 100k
Can’t wait to do my first timing task on this tundra.. everyone says it’s a nightmare so i’m praying for myself once it gets here.. doing LBJ & timing kit from aisin.
Thumbs up 👍 running through the fix 😊
When you rotate the crank shaft twice, the "timing marks line up" is not referring to the belt marks. Installed it twice because of that.
Yes that is correct. The belt marks will not line back up. Sorry if I wasn't ultra-clear about that in the video
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow Holy..ahem. You still keep track of this stuff? Right on.
Also, I figured out that the hose bracket goes over top of the AC bracket down low there. Paused me for a bit. Might've swore. Really great video though, man. Sure appreciate your effort. Cut right to the chase. Handy.
@@72mak51 yeah man I try to respond to any and all comments when I can.
@@72mak51 glad to hear you're able to get it knocked out. Certainly not the easiest timing belt in the world but not too bad. Appreciate your comment and yeah I strive to get right down to it. Sometimes I go a little too fast though. Trying to work on that
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow You're a rock star.
Going through the timing belt change. Thanks for the video.
Good stuff! Thanks for dropping a comment
I like it. No BS just facts,
Heck yeah
Freakin awesome man!
Great tutorial... one of the best I’ve seen and probably because of the pace. Outstanding!
Thx again!
Thanks man I appreciate that! Yeah probably a little bit too fast-paced for some people, but that's just kind of how my style is for the most part.
NoNonsenseKnowHow
Mine too!
Thanks again...!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge, tricks of the trade and time savers. Best I’ve seen!
No problem! Glad to hear you found some of it helpful. thanks
Hey there. Following your awesome video to replace 3.4L Toyota timing belt. What’s it mean when the timing belt moves one belt notch ahead after the engine is rotated two full revolutions?
You're talking about the notches on the belt itself? Once you rotate the engine two turns ahead disregard those marks. Just look at the mark on the cams and crank
If I had a machine shop..I would notch out the AC compressor bracket, it would make accessing the back tensioner bolt, so much easier. When you get to that point, you'll know what I am referring too.....
One of the best how to videos I’ve seen. Thanks for sharing!
-morgs bf who is too lazy to sign into his own RUclips account.
No problem! Glad you found it helpful. I feel like I really rushed and went too fast with it, but I was shooting to make a video that wouldn't take up too much time for people. Thanks for commenting
Great shot of all the timing belt marks! I was having trouble with the crank mark on the new belt because it is set right on a belt tooth, but the mark on the crank gear it set right on a tooth also, which does NOT match up correctly. The mark on the belt should have been placed between 2 teeth so that it would match exactly. So I did what you did and put the crank belt mark just past the crank mark going down. Great job on both videos!
Awesome to hear it was helpful. And thanks
Nice sweet and to the point . just like he said , no nonsense.
Thank you! I really appreciate the feedback and comment
That crank pulley bolt is single use only. My last tacoma whoever replaced the timing belt, they red lock tighted it and it lasted I’m assuming years but it inevitably fell out and dropped the crank pulley while I was driving one night
Like your "to the point" video style!
Sailing doodles? Im down with all your other channel recommendations but never heard of no sailing doodles.. lol
Just bought a 01 tundra with this engine, looks like the original belt in it at 293k, no water pump leakage so wasn't going to change it till it snapped as I thought these were non interference engines, have you heard of any of them bending valves somehow when they let go I'm afraid of towing anything with it and always ease into it when takin off.
Awesome video everything in order and lot of knowledge.
You are the PRO👍 excellent job 👏
Thank you! Cheers!
Thank you !
Man, that was fast! Great video though, you know your sh1t!!
Haha yeah, looking back on it it was definitely a little too fast-paced. I'll have to slow it down next time. Thanks for your comment and good luck on yours if your doing one
Great DIY video! Thank you
Dude. Thank you!
Who needs an ac, it’s 27 degrees. That’s a great engine
Yeah definitely an awesome engine! He still hasn't put his AC compressor back in, and we're moving into the next winter LOL. My brother that is
NoNonsenseKnowHow I have that engine in a 97 t00. 231k one timing belt, that’s it besides consumables
@@sweetwilliam49 awesome! Yeah I've beat the hell out of my truck and she's been Ultra reliable. This engine definitely lacks some balls. But it makes up for it in reliability
NoNonsenseKnowHow mine is pretty stout for a 6 banger. It’s no v8 but it serves my needs. Thanks for reply
Great video, helped a lot. Thanks!!
Glad it helped!
Great job with the video. You should be doing tv the way you can talk on the video 👍🏿
Thanks Jeff! I appreciate the feedback too!
Cool video you make it look easy ...
It's not too bad once you tear into it. Having the right tools is what makes a world of difference. Doing this job on the side of the road would be a real PITA.
Dude! I done did it, danke.
Awesome videos very informative refresher for me!
Do you also have a vid of the 4.7? Not sure if you’ve ever done that job on your tundra.
Very confusing video. What belt actually drives the water pump? The Timing belt or the grooved belt installed after the cover was replaced? I searched for a video replacing the water pump only and all I found was a video stipulating changing the timing belt and the water pump. However, at the end, you were reinstalling the old water pump not the new one. What is going on?
It's best to watch a video all the way through to understand it. You can watch it in 2x if it's too slow for you. Yes the timing belt drives the water pump. And I did not put a used one back in. I replaced it
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow ; Okay. If that is your response then you need to fire whoever is editing your videos. Because; In the beginning you showed an immaculately spotless shiny new water pump in the parts kit. However, at timing point 4.41 in part 2, the water pump in the video is an old, rust and dirt stained water pump. What happened to the new one? The video showed the Old, rusty water pumped BOLTED to the engine with a brand new timing belt behind it!! So I repeat, what is going on??
Second: IF the timing belt drives the water pump, where is the connection because it does not appear anywhere in the video. There is no pictorial anywhere showing how the timing belt drives the water pump.
Third: In part one of the video, you showed a picture of the DAYCO parts kit and openly praised them for the quality of their product. In the picture shown at 1:10 the brand new water pump is shown at the top left of the screen with a smooth cylinder on the shaft. This is NOT the water pump shown being taken off the engine nor being put back on the engine.
Would you care to modify your response at this point?
Ill check it out tomorrow to see what u might be talking about.
I just looked now. You are confused as to what is the water pump and what is not. That old looking part is the fan clutch bearing. If you look behind it you see the shiny water pump is already bolted on
And I edit all my own videos
Good vid bud!! 👍🏻
What if the timing marks on the belt lined up when you installed the belt but not after you rotated it. My belt marks are off but the cams and crank are in sync?
Great question. That's completely normal. If you want to verify the timing after rotating it, just take a look at the marks on the cam and Crank.
Sweet! I had a hell of a time getting the belt on. The pin to the hydraulic tensioner bent on me the first time I installed it and I couldn't get it out. So I had to remove the tensioner and the pin and install it with the piston extended. Pain in the ass! Thanks for the info great job on the videos.
I got nervous, had this happen to me as well.. had to watch this again and thankfully it’s normal as long as my crank and cam marks are timed
son of a bitch, I hate to sound stupid but I've removed and replaced that f@*$&%g belt at least 6 times trying to figure out why when I rotated around the belt marks didn't line anymore... even called a 50 yr experienced mechanic and ask but he just told me to tighten it up between cams. Now I come sit down and start looking thru the commits and find this? dammit I could've been done last night if I'd known this yesterday. You know that's a pretty important thing to include in there. However your excellent with your teachings. I really like that you time-laps it so you still show almost everything in the video but shorten it so one can get thru it faster and get to work. Thanks I'll be watching for yours if You have anymore on things I'm doing. Great video Sir
I recently did this and had to go back in because the harmonic balancer crankshaft pulley was wobbling so I replaced it. IT STILL WOBBLES! I made sure to torque all to specs including the crankshaft bolt. The accessory belts are a bit tight but have about 1/2inch or less of give... shouldn't cause the pulley to wobble. My last thought is maybe I did face the crankshaft washer in the wrong direction, before I dig in again. Do you have any suggestions?
that funnel is a cool deal. i always end up spilling coolant all over when i do radiator related work lol. is there a way to wire my turn signals on my XL to burn the full time it's running...i know i would have to get different bulbs with dual filaments but i think you would have to wire them into the stator somehow if that's even remotely possible
colt ACP yeah the Lisle funnel definitely works great! And yeah you could certainly do that. But you would need to replace the turn signals as well since the sockets would not adapt to those bulbs
that VT750 shadow i got running is set up like that but screw it by the sound of it it's going to start costing money lol
How did you tighten the crank pulley bolt?
Great video
Thanks Damian
15 degrees either way of 12 o'clock for jiggle valve
On another note...always count the cogs on the new timing belt...compared to your old one. DO NOT TRUST YOUR SUPPLIER....ASK ME HOW I KNOW !!!
Awesome videos! Great information.
How long did it actually take to compete?
if things go smooth it's usually like a three-and-a-half to four hour job
what coolent did u use I see u used green toyota uses a red coolent
Yeah the coolant I used is rated for all makes and models. The Toyota red is good stuff. But you don't have to use it. At least that's been my experience.
thanks good to know
No problem.
The crank pulley holder u posted does not work...read Amazon posting regarding engine on your video.....
Thanks for bringing that to my attention, I'll look into it and update the description. I appreciate that.
NoNonsenseKnowHow .....great diy video though...
NoNonsenseKnowHow ...Schley product 64400 is the tool to have. I'm ending up asking a friend with impact wrench to handle the crank case pulley bolt...
The only concern I have is how can I take off a 200 ft lb nut without power tools?
What i did is i used the trucks starter to take it off.
I had a long 1/2 inch ratchet with 19mm socket. Put the ratchet handle on the frame and bumped the starter.
thank you . Might have to do this.
bought a 2003 Tacoma with 3.4. it overheats but not too bad, if I set the heater on and fan on full blast temps stay in check. I just replaced the fan clutch with an AISIN unit and its doing the same. Next is the water pump, what do you think
It's rare on these to have the water pump causing overheat. Unless somebody didn't change the coolant for a very long time and the impeller is rotted away. Which is pretty uncommon on these. More common for the water pump to start leaking. Could have a clogged radiator
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow I just went outside and the car is overheating and the lower radiator hose is relatively cold.
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow thermostat? Clogged rad ?
Yeah. One of the two. Start with thermostat.
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow pulled the t stat out. Placed it in a bowling water and it opened. So the thermostat "works". Despite that I took the grinder to the thermostat and cut the middle part. Put it back, bled the system. Went for drive the engine took longer to warm up ( expected) but never went past 1/2 on the temp gauge. I even found service road with mud and puddles, had to test them! Temp never went above 1/2.
Fucking awesome video
5vzfe on mine says only 184ft lbs for the crank?
What model truck?
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow 1997. Maybe i saw it for somwthing else? I mean the more lbs the better? ☺️
followed your instructions exactly, and bought the exact same parts. I can't for the life of me get the crank timing mark to line up with the mark on the belt. I don't have near the slack you do. I even tried without putting the tensioner in at all, any other tips?
Sorry to hear you're having trouble. There are not really any other tips I can think of. Like I said in the video I was able to get it on by leaving the tensioner bolt out some threads. It was still tight getting the belt on. Maybe try getting it on in a different sequence on the pulleys. Or it might be worthwhile to take a look at another video to see if there's a better technique
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow thanks for the reply, just wanted to make sure i wasn't missing anything obvious. I wemt ahead and ordered new belt in case something is off with mine. Love your vids thanks so much for everything
No problem. Good luck with it and let me know how you make out.
I tend to doubt it's going to be the belt causing your problem. Unless it's like way off. But if you're just having a problem stretching it over the tensioner or last pulley then you might want to try using a ranch on one of the camshaft to try to take up the slack in the rest of the routing. Not sure if I explained that great. But you have to make sure the rest of the belt is taught
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow with the cam timing marks lined up with the belt, it doesn't seem to allow me to line the bottom belt mark up with the crank sprocket. I can get it but it's about 2 teeth off. Which is no big deal as long as all the timing marks line up. However when I go to install the tensioner, it begins to pull the crank making it 1-2 teeth off with the cams. We'll see with this other belt does today. I've watched several video's besides yours, and looks like other people have more slack then i seem to have. I took the tensioner all the way out to rule out any tension issues.
You forgot to check AT fluid , other than that you knocked it out of the park
You're right! I'm sure I checked it but just forgot to put that in the video. 99% of the time the fluid level is fine. Not much came out. Thanks
Love your videos! One question about the water pump gasket. I bought a timing belt kit that comes with the OE gasket.. Do I need to use the right stuff on this one? Or am i better off getting a fel-pro gasket and using the right stuff?
Thanks man, I appreciate your comment. When you say it's an OE gasket, is it the MLS one? (multi layer steel) if so, yes I would definitely use that one and if it was me personally I would still coat both sides with a very light smear of the right stuff. I swear by that stuff! Ever since I've been using it I've never had anything come back leaking.
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow Thanks man! Yeah, it looks like the MLS gasket. And I'll definitely use the right stuff... i don't want to do this twice.
It looks like the previous owner of my truck replaced the water pump once before.. it has the paper gasket. and i'm having trouble getting it cleaned up. What's the best way to remove it? Right now I'm using acetone and a plastic blade.. and it's taking forever..
@@thomasrichardcannon it's a cast-iron block, so you can be pretty aggressive with it. I usually use a wire wheel or 3M pad on a quarter inch angle whizzer
@@thomasrichardcannon razor blades work well too. When you're scraping gaskets from aluminum that's when you have to be really careful. Hope that helps. Let me know how you make out
hate to tell u buddy but clutch fans should NOT spin that easy with the belt installed..there should be some resistance telling u the fluids are moving in the clutch fan and never ever lay the clutch fan flat after its been used..always keep it standing up straight. something to do with the fluid inside the clutch..
While I do appreciate your comment, I hate to tell you buddy but but you're wrong. I agree with your statement however it doesn't pertain to this setup. The fan belt is not on, so the entire assembly is freewheeling on the bearing. Once the fan belt is in place, there is plenty of resistance and this fan clutch works just as you described in your comment. When you take yours apart, you'll see what I'm talking about. Or if you look back at the segment you were referring to in this video you'll see. Thanks for watching! :)
instead of using your big fat finger to point out the area of interest try a $1 laser pointer instead?
😆
Amatuer....