SafetyDang--you're the man. I just changed my timing belt, water pump, tensioners, thermostat, and belts on my 2001 Taco for my first time! The last belt change was done by a garage from the previous owner. The belt was not in sync or lined up correctly. The power was low and sounded like the valves were tapping. Now, it runs awesome. For those thinking about this doing this work, I used genuine Toyota parts. Watch the video several times--it's right on. The Toyota timing belt has arrows for lining up the cam and crankshafts. Just know the timing belt will shift a couple of teeth when you rotate the engine a couple of times. You can see the timing belt shift in the video. Don't stress if this happens. Just make sure the cams and crank shafts are ALL lined up after cycling through it. As mentioned in the video, the crankshaft washer is slightly curved and should face outward away from the timing belt. BIG thank you to SafetyDang for making this video.
This is one of the better videos I've seen. You actually explain and show everything you are doing. Thanks for this. It will be super helpful in the near future. I have 310k miles right now and we haven't done the pump and belt since 210k. (the first time we did it)
Me and my brother changed the timing belt on my 1999 3.4L 4runner at 150k miles several years ago. I'm approaching 300k miles so I'm overdue for another timing belt change. I will be replacing valve cover gaskets and front oil seal also. Thanks for refreshing my memory with a good video.
Dexter Christian 150k on a timing belt? lol. That is one awesome belt. Toyota recommends the timing belt on the 1st gen to be changed at 60k. The newer models at 90k.
I am going to do this on my 96 Toyota t100 with 270 000 miles. local shops want $$ 650-850$$, you guy's gives me the confidence to do it myself, thanks a million!!
Sorry, Google changed notifications for some reason. You are very welcome. Good luck and take your time.
8 лет назад+4
Thanks guys, very helpful . Your thorough videos eliminate the apprehension for moderate DIY week end mechanics , who would otherwise spend a fortune at a dealership shop. Thanks for the motivation and confidence building video. A tip, when you go this far, check all tensioners and pulleys for wear, I found my AC tensioner tight and rough rotation, and a flat spot in the pulley groove, and replaced it, no more sporadic belt squeal.
Quick tip for a slightly easier way to remove the radiator: instead of removing the 4 front facing bolts that hold mount the radiator to the frame (can be difficult to access with grill / bumper) you can also just unbolt the radiator from its sub-frame mount. To do this, just remove 4 bolts on each corner of the radiator sub-frame. They are much easier to access, and face towards the sides of the car. One of them can be seen at 2:33. Pull these 4 bolts, and the radiator will slide right out!
Used your video as my number one source for doing this job on my 2002 4Runner. The Hayes manual I had was worthless. Thanks guys. Job completed successfully.
Thank you! I know my video is still missing a lot of information. And some people would do other steps differently. However, making this video took a lot of time and I appreciate all the positive comments.
Great video! Did my timing belt and water pump this weekend. I made a crankshaft pulley holder but it broke the harmonic balancer off from the inside of the crankshaft pulley. My bolts didn't go all the way through the pulley. So I tapped the existing metric holes for 5/16-18. Threaded the bolts all the way through and it worked perfect. Just wanted to point that out.
Nice relaxed video. "Don't Panic or freak out" is a good thing to keep in mind when things don't go picture perfectly right away. ALSO... Factory torque specs for the main Damper pulley bolt is 250 lbs ft/lbs. Your engine sounds great. Many more miles to go. Toyota manual likes it if we replace the Damper/pulley bolt with a brand new one. Makes some sense if you consider that, properly cared for, this job may be done at least 3 or 4 more times. We do not want to mess up those threads for sure. Thanks for doing this video.
Factor in the tensioner. My older mechanic cousin taught me this. As long as the lines on the OEM belt line up you should be good. Remember there is slack in the belt. When you release the tensioner all the slack is removed. Go to 8:46 should help .
I just changed my timing belt after 17 years of used. My old timing belt still look good. I love Toyota products. For those of you the Toyota owner don't forget to pick up original Toyota Part. I am a living proof.
Thank you for this video. I replaced the timing belt, water pump, radiator, hoses, belts, and fan clutch following this video. I just rolled 209,000 miles on my 1999 4Runner Limitied.
I did mine without pulling the radiator, but I have a manual transmission. Did not have a tool for the crankshaft bolt, so to get it off I just set my breaker bar against the frame and bumped the starter. The bolt loosened right up. To reinstall I had to use two small chains bolted into the pully and wrapped around the frame, one pulling from the top and one from the bottom. That prevented the pully from moving so I was able to apply correct torque. Worked perfectly. Dont freak out if you rotate the engine after installing the belt and see the white line has moved from the mark on the cams, like in the video. Mine did that and I almost lost it till I realized that is normal.
Awesome. Had to come back the next morning because we couldn't find/fabricate the damn crankshaft bolt remover but... We did it. Used this video as reference the whole time too - I have a 2000 4runner that needed this exact fix - same engine and all. Thanks for the upload! The trick we used to get the thing off - We cut the timing belt, wrapped it around the center pully and used a few vice grips on it. When we went to pull the crankshaft bolt - didn't even budge.
Nice Job on the project and the video! I agree with mkrp4. Very methodical and organized. I hate learning from people that jump all over the place. I don't post comments on here often but was extremely impressed with you guys.
This is video is perfect ! The only thing I would change is the screen shot and title for searching . It took me watching three time wasting videos to get here .
Good job guys! Here's a Tip: You don't have to remove the A/C Compressor/Bracket if you have this tool. (Schley SCH97300 Toyota Timing Belt Tensioner Compressor) You can get it on Amazon for around $30 shipped. It'll save you time if you're not going to replace the tensioner. :)
Or you can use 1/4" ratchet with long extension to get to the tensioner bolts without removing the compressor and bracket--takes 5 minutes. You do have to loosen the plastic bracket at the bottom front of the engine even with the top of the oil pan(2 small machine screws) so you can access the rear tensioner bolt
Hey Thanks for the reply. The truck Toyota T100 DX 1995 3.4 Liter / V6 / 5VZFE was running good when the water pump started leaking. I decided to replace the water pump & timing belt along with the front main seal, fan belts, Hydraulic Tensioner, timing belt, Tensioner Roller. It all went very hard as it was my first time. Needless to say the engine would not start. It would chug for a minute and the engine light came on. I dis assembled the the covers on the timing belt and all the marks are lined up (both cams TDC, camshaft gear mark lined up with the water pump, and the crankshaft pulley mark on 0. So I replaced the Camshaft Position Sensor 19300-62010 and put it all back together. It will only chug for a minute and just grind. Wait about 15 minutes and it will do the same thing. I checked the fuel filter on the engine side and it is getting fuel through the filter. I also smelled the exhaust pipe after its done chugging and it smells like fuel. Now I noticed that the crankshaft gear is smaller than the camshaft gears? In my strugel to remove the crankshaft bolt I know I turned the crank shaft a few turns more than the camshafts. My questions is as long as all the marks line up shouldn't I be good on the timing? Any help or guidance you could give me would be much appreciated.
See my reply to Sam Sores above. Sorry it wouldn't let me copy and paste it here. Basically make sure #1 piston is coming up on compression stroke and when it is at the top of its travel on compression stroke all timing Mark's should line up. If not, then your timing will be off. Possibly 180 out.
Thumbs up video. Note the purpose of the removable section of the fan shroud is so you can remove and install the radiator with the shroud bolted to it. The lower piece easily clips in from the bottom once the radiator is mounted to the core support. Also, removal of the (PITA) AC compressor and bracket can be eliminated by using a screw jack special tool to compress the tensioner with the AC junk in place. (Schley Products SP97300) A crank holding tool is also a worthwhile purchase. (Schley Products SL64400) Search Ebay for the best prices on the special tools.
It is virtually impossible to break the tensioner pulley or the water pump pulley if you stop cranking on the tool when the capture pin hole aligns with the hole in the tensioner piston. I understand some folks may have more time than cash and it is good that there is an alternative way of compressing the tensioner, albeit, more difficult and time consuming. I have changed more 3.4l timing belts and water pumps than I can count, all using an in situ compression tool and have never damaged a pulley or pump.. Some wrongly believe that a tensioner compression tool exerts enormous force on the pulleys, when in fact, there is only slightly more force than what the tensioner is already exerting on the timing belt and thereby back at the pulleys. Anyway, just tossing my two cents into the Internet knowledge gumbo. Sometimes that is not a good thing. LOL. Keep up the good work.
Just got done doing mine. I was able to leave my AC/AC mount, I just used a long swivel extension to get to the tensioner to remove it. Installing the tensioner was just as easy. I used a vice to compress the tensioner then inserted a 1.5mm allen before installing.
Very nice video. Thanks for your time. If I may be permitted I would like to add; 1) a torque wrench should NEVER be used as a breaker bar. Only for TORQUING of the fasteners. 2) A 1.50” tip of a machinist scratch awl bent 90 degrees (or buying a one made as such) can be a great tool to get under rubber hose and between the hose and the neck to break the seal and make removal much easier. 3) The battery should be disconnected also to prevent any possibility of cranking the engine by mistake.
Great video. Thanks for the tip on the turn the crank a little to line the marks on the belt up with the dot. I tried and tried until I came across this. Thank man. Keep turning the wrenches and showing us how it’s done. Great video.
Great video. Watched it several times before attempting to change my belt and pump etc. Definitely worth the watch. Felt like I had already done it. My only tip is unbolt the power steering pump and set it to the side to get to the AC bracket. Made my life much easier after trying for 2 hours to get it off w/o removing PS pump. Once removed only took 10 minutes to get bracket off. Anyways.., thanks SafteyDang!!
This video helped alot. I just bought a 94 4runner with the 3.0. Still have to get off the bracket connecting the power steering to the water pump and a few pulleys.
Nice video. For the tbelt tensioner closest to the engine, use a 1/4 extension connected to a universal connected to a short 12mm. You can definitely sneak your way around the annoying bracket. I am actually doing that right now and was using this video as a guide. That'll save at least 30 min
3/8th will not work. I did try it because i felt like I was going to break my 1/4 set lol Luckily owning a high quality snap-on set actually comes in handy now and then :)
Convenience. Just changed timing belt on my 2001 Tacoma 3.4L for the second time and didn't remove radiator either time. Good idea to cut piece or cardboard or similar and place over inside of radiator for protection, though.
Excellent video!!!! Thanks for actually showing the work and not an "after" video. I will definitely use this video when it comes to the taco! Great job!
Thank you for the video. I just finished my 1996 4runner with your help. I would like to ad one thing though. make sure bottom line for crank shaft is opposite of top mark on crank shaft. As I unfortunately learned .
Good job guys, excellent video, thank you for making this video. If you could add a short video on working with the timing belt tensioner, that would be fantastic. I haven't worked on this Tacoma previously. I bought it new in 2001 and had all the scheduled mainenance and repairs done at the local Toyota delaership. Big mistake! They do the work, but they don't go out of their way to clean up after themselves and use some degreaser. I've had 3 scheculed timing belt/water pump replacements done at the dealership, but the last timing belt change resulted in an issue at 20,000 miles into the new timing belt. My truck overheated because of a leaking water pump at the water pump gasket due to poor work habits by the toyota technician, He did not clean the engine block where the water pump bolts in. I spent the next several hours removing old gasket materails left behind by prevoius toyota techs who simply didn't notice, didn't care, I don't know. They also did not take the time to clean away some of the grease buildup. This truck timing belt/water pump area was absolutely caked in a petroleum residue, not good! I'm good in all areas of this except what to do to replace the timing belt tensioner. Will keep looking, thanks for you videos, you guys rock!
Thanks for watching MIchael. The main issue with making these videos is that the truck never needs service that often. :D A toyota problem I guess. If I ever get a chance I will try to make the video.
great video ! air compressor bracket was the toughest part ,maybe enhance this on your instruction ,for people wondering the special tool that holds the flywheel ,the spacing on the bolts that go into the balancer were spaced at 2-7/8" on center and I used 5/16 x 2-1/2" grade 8 bolts drilled through and welded to 1/2" x 3" x 18" and with a torch I burned a hole for the socket . ratchet wrenches are a must ! thanks again SafetyDang
Thanks a million for this! I just did this job today with a buddy and it went super smooth thanks to your video! I did end up buying that Schley pulley holder tool which made taking the main crank pulley off a non issue, as well as putting it back on. I'm definitely not a fan of that dang AC bracket though. I also think whoever changed the belt before me (If it was changed?) installed the Timing Belt guide backwards, cupped side towards the engine. It looked like it did scrape up the belt or something. I have 205,000 miles on the taco, but no idea when the belt was ever changed. Good to go now!
SafetyDang... thanks for the great vid... It is helping me do my job! True.. the worst part is getting the PITA bolt off (Hydraulic tensioner). I've just re-installed the Aircon pump and the rest should be a piece of cake. Thanks for the vid... Cheers, Doug. (Australia)
What should I charge for labor time on this job? I would not be as fast as Mr dang so add on a couple more hours to whatever time it takes him to do it. I want a realistic time for a experienced but doesn't do this job every day type mechanic, not just the Factory book time which would probably be way fewer hours than I would take. Thanks for any help I'm an experienced mechanic but I don't do these everyday so it would be somewhere between the slowest and the fastest time for me to do it. Mr. Dang is very quick and knows exactly which tools and what he's doing through the entire job. Very impressed with this video Thanks for any help.
Nice video! I have a 2000 tacoma and was thinking of taking this on. Removing compressor seems a little daunting. Is it necessary to disconnect refrigerant lines from the compressor as well? That means draining/refilling refrigerant, yuck.
Unfortunately I ended up disconnecting and letting the crap leak out since there was no other way to get my socket wrench in there. (Regular Wrench was looking like it would strip it since it's so damn tight) I just replaced the thermostat and waterpump looking to finish it up tomorrow. Gonna have to refill the compressor. Sure good time to clean up the bolts and engine with everything out.
@modestmoose83 Hm... Between work and school 2 weeks. Keep in mind I had to record everything. If you have 2 people who know what they are doing around 5 hours is correct.
I've seen people use an impact to get it off. I have also seen people use an impact and it not get it off. If your impact can do it then great. Just know it needs a special torque value around 200 something in the FSM.
Thanks for the feed back!! My 99 4runner is fixing to undergo this. I have watched the video about a dozen times. I feel like I have already done the job. Great video!! Seems like making the tool is better. Keep up the good work!! Trying to do it this week. I got all the parts in a kit on ebay. Many thank's to you for videos like this!! Your the man!!
24" chain wrench (www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000TDGHGY/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) with a piece of the old timing belt to protect the harmonic balancer works great--but does take 2 people and a lot of force to torque to the FSM 217 ft/lbs. Just did the belt, water pump, tensioner, pulleys, seals and thermostat with 218,000 original miles--no wonder 4Runners have a bulletproof reputation!
Yes it matters. Look at the CAM Gear, there is a line. If you use the toyota belt the line should match up with that cam gear line during installation. On the CRANK shaft there is also a line. Line that mark up with the Belt line.
Noticed your valve cover on the passenger side looks extremely clean. Keep an eye on that b/c the gaskets are notorious for leaking. I say keep an eye on it b/c I just did mine and cleaning off that old grime and oil is a pain!!!
+SafetyDang For sure, it's not so fun and company would've been helpful haha. Swap out your rear cam plug seals (mine had a bit of a leak), spark plug tube seals, and re seal those half moons. I got a pretty sweet kit on amazon for $70. Had everything and more, hopefully I never need to use exhaust manifold and head gaskets!!!!!
Milwaukee ratchet, 12in. 1/4" drive extension and 12mm uniwiggle socket and some good fishing skills and the ac bracket can stay put. Yeah I know, everyone mentioned that already haha
Im replacing mine right now and this video is a great reference ! Thanks for going out of your way ! I laugh every time I hear that guy grunt trying to get the crank shaft bolt out ! LMAO :-)
You have to loosen the bolt in the center of the idler pulley in order to tighten the belt. Screw in idler pulley adjustment screw to tighten belt then re-tighten pulley center bolt.
Hi, Thanks for the helpful video. I did not see in the video the use of a harmonic balancer installer tool. I thought that tool is necessary to seat the balancer fully in place.
My friend has the 2004 Tacoma with the 3.4 and locking diff. He is getting vibration when stopping 15-0 MPH and same vibration accelerating from 0-15MPH. Went through all suspension components and they are mint. (today we flushing both diffs, transfer case, transmission, coolant, did shocks and brakes.) coupler bearing going to driveshaft? This issue is very common in the forums. He does off road a lot.
Spark plugs, fuel filter and carrier bearing tonight. Still same vibration 10-0 and 0-10. But better. Driveshaft perfectly marked, exact same spline on the adapter plate, securing nut torqued to exact same location. Thinking spline damage, transfer case damage or driveshaft damage. or clutch only in 1st gear.
Great video!! Quick question if when installing the timing belt the right camshaft move a little to the left should I turn it two time resetting to tDC
it appears we have the same truck. are you having any problem when you hit the brake, the truck sometimes shake or vibrates. i tried replacing all my brakes (front rotors including calipers/pads and the back drums), front suspension with no avail
Excellent video.. The only suggestion is to review the coolant requirement since you used prestone green.. The truck looks newer in video and Toyota recommends the red or pink coolant. I personally use Zerex G-05 for all cars I own with no issues
I need to tighten the 3rd belt you took off. Not the Alternator or fan belt. But the "Middle" one. Can I just tighten the tensioner or do I have to loosen that pully as well like you did?
Did you have to discharge your AC system in order to remove the AC compressor? According to the Haynes manual, the AC compressor needs to be removed in order to remove the bracket in the way of loosening the belt tensioner.
Pin can be a small allen or screw driver anything that is strong enough and small enough to fit the pin hole. The Cam tool was made. If you read the description there is a link to the page.
Well it's a known issues with the tacomas and 4runner that the trans cooler in side the rad fails and mixes coolant with the transmission fluid. So alot of guys bypass the rad to a external transmission cooler. Its a pretty easy mod to do. I think most guys use the B&M cooler. The TRD one is pretty expensive.
I am on the same timing belt and water pump for the last 11 yrs. I have about 185k on them, truck has 285k and will think about changing them out at about 350k. this thing just last forever and runs forever, only changed 4 sets of tires, two batteries, one set of starter contacts and that's it, plus the usual fluid changes.
Wow! What a great video! I have been trying to find an in depth video for my install. I am pretty sure i will use this video as a guide. Way to go dang.
Question, How do I make sure that the pistons are TDC before I put the timing belt on? Do I just align the pulley with the marks on the engine by rotating the cams clockwise until they are aligned?
Yes! that is correct. Best not to try to go counter clock wise more than 1 tooth. So if you go past it once its ok. Also watch for your Crank shaft pulley on the bottom. It also has a line. Best to adjust it with the old belt before removing it.
Not sure on this engine, but if you remove the #1 spark plug on a Chevrolet or engine with similar valve train, on compression strike all valves are closed and if you place your finger or a compression guage where the #1 spark plug was you will feel/see pressure build u as the piston comes toward TDC. Then you can insert a long plastic or wooden stick in the sparkplug hole and slowly turn the crank watching the stick move up and out until it starts to change direction of movement. Then you are just passed TDC. Also watch the timing mark alignment on the crank pulley or gear as it lines up. Not sure if rotating it backwards if you barely go past will matter, but it seems it's not recommended to do counterclockwise rotation of the engine. Get video. Though I have seen a couple where the radiator was not removed. I guess it depends on the space available in different model engine compartments or preference. FYI! I will say a new crank bolt and correct torquing of said bolt seems imperative to prevent loosening and potential computer timing adjustment issues and possible failure. Saw one video where the crank gear key way was worn to twice its normal width and the owners had replaced several other parts trying to track down a loss of power problem due to timing constantly shifting.
awesome brother i have a question where can i get the tool to remove de fan bolt and the big pulley because im trying to buy but i do not where than you
great vid - my valve seals are leaking oil and I'm looking at pulling the heads for a complete valve job at a machine shop. If I'm not mistaken, I would do everything you've done here but obviously continue on with actually pulling the heads off right? Of course the exhaust and intake systems would be removed too, but I would also be replacing my timing belt and water pump as part of the job.
Got my 98 Tacoma took apart and went ahead and put the water pump on. Looks like the piece below the water pump I think it's the oil pump seal is also leaking oil. Going to fix that oil leak while I've got everything else off. What all goes into replacing that gasket or seal?Ps the video for the water pump has been awesome! Very helpful
One of the best informative videos I've seen. Sorry for the noob question, but why are the belt lines off when your turned the pulley to adjust the belt?
I realize this video is a few yrs old, hopefully this question gets answered. After installing the belt & you manually rotate the assembly, how many times did you have to rotate the assembly back to TDC to get the cam pulleys & crank pulley back to TDC? Odd question, but I'm getting multiple answers that don't add up. I'm having a no start issue since doing mine & have cranked it via starter multiple times, after a couple attempts to manually set it to TDC the passenger side cam pulley & crank are at TDC, but the driver side cam pulley is 180° out at BDC. Which makes me think the belt wasn't properly aligned. Hence the no start.
hi great video I did my t belt before I watch this how come after u set TDC and install toyota belt with marks when u bring it back around the belt marts a a little off but everything still seems to be at TDC ?
+Garen Watts I just did my belt and had the same result I also noticed the same result in this video the belt seams to move one notch but the cams and crank indicators indicate that everything is still at top dead center. upon further research I found an explanation from someone else here is what they said "DrWooPigSooie The belt marks are only for initial calibration, once tensioner is set watch only the notches on cam and crank pulleys for alignment" in other words as long as the cams and crank continue to line up on TDC your good to go
+John Gubler marks on the belt are used to assure correct amount of teeth between timing marks to prevent slack ("extra teeth") and late timing. Having pre-printed marks makes installation a lot easier (you don't have to count the teeth or calculate number of them (dividing belt segment length by tooth pitch )
Hi, Thanks for the video. I am sure I am overdue for timing belt replacement. My water pump seems ok (128,000miles), but I was thinking I should change it out as I will have everything off to do it easily then. How do I adjust the correct tension on the new belt? Thanks, Doug
Thank you for the video. I just to replace my timing belt and water pump and belts on my 4runner 5vz-fe 3.4L V6. what kind of tools do I need and what happen when you timing belt is not line up? help please do this on my own.
Safety dang that pin that you pull out after you install the belt is that special tool time 6:30. Because you did not mention anything placing that pin. Regarding about that bar that you were using to turn the cam any chance you know the part number for that or what company might be selling it. Tnx
SafetyDang--you're the man. I just changed my timing belt, water pump, tensioners, thermostat, and belts on my 2001 Taco for my first time! The last belt change was done by a garage from the previous owner. The belt was not in sync or lined up correctly. The power was low and sounded like the valves were tapping. Now, it runs awesome. For those thinking about this doing this work, I used genuine Toyota parts. Watch the video several times--it's right on. The Toyota timing belt has arrows for lining up the cam and crankshafts. Just know the timing belt will shift a couple of teeth when you rotate the engine a couple of times. You can see the timing belt shift in the video. Don't stress if this happens. Just make sure the cams and crank shafts are ALL lined up after cycling through it. As mentioned in the video, the crankshaft washer is slightly curved and should face outward away from the timing belt. BIG thank you to SafetyDang for making this video.
Watching all these videos on replacing the timing belt and water pump assures me I made the right decision to pay someone else to do it. : )
This is one of the better videos I've seen. You actually explain and show everything you are doing. Thanks for this. It will be super helpful in the near future. I have 310k miles right now and we haven't done the pump and belt since 210k. (the first time we did it)
Me and my brother changed the timing belt on my 1999 3.4L 4runner at 150k miles several years ago. I'm approaching 300k miles so I'm overdue for another timing belt change. I will be replacing valve cover gaskets and front oil seal also. Thanks for refreshing my memory with a good video.
Thanks!
Dexter Christian 150k on a timing belt? lol. That is one awesome belt. Toyota recommends the timing belt on the 1st gen to be changed at 60k. The newer models at 90k.
Im at 120k on the belt. I am doing that change soon as it looks like mine broke. Gonna be pulling the belt cover off tonight to confirm.
I am going to do this on my 96 Toyota t100 with 270 000 miles. local shops want $$ 650-850$$, you guy's gives me the confidence to do it myself, thanks a million!!
Sorry, Google changed notifications for some reason. You are very welcome. Good luck and take your time.
Thanks guys, very helpful . Your thorough videos eliminate the apprehension for moderate DIY week end mechanics , who would otherwise spend a fortune at a dealership shop.
Thanks for the motivation and confidence building video.
A tip, when you go this far, check all tensioners and pulleys for wear, I found my AC tensioner tight and rough rotation, and a flat spot in the pulley groove, and replaced it, no more sporadic belt squeal.
Awesome glad the video helped
Quick tip for a slightly easier way to remove the radiator: instead of removing the 4 front facing bolts that hold mount the radiator to the frame (can be difficult to access with grill / bumper) you can also just unbolt the radiator from its sub-frame mount.
To do this, just remove 4 bolts on each corner of the radiator sub-frame. They are much easier to access, and face towards the sides of the car. One of them can be seen at 2:33. Pull these 4 bolts, and the radiator will slide right out!
Dude YOU ROCK. Very easy job. Thank You. saved me 900.00 in labor. Took me 4 hrs. the 700 lb. impact wrench worked on the crank bolt. Took 2 seconds
Used your video as my number one source for doing this job on my 2002 4Runner. The Hayes manual I had was worthless. Thanks guys. Job completed successfully.
Thank you! I know my video is still missing a lot of information. And some people would do other steps differently. However, making this video took a lot of time and I appreciate all the positive comments.
Great video! Did my timing belt and water pump this weekend. I made a crankshaft pulley holder but it broke the harmonic balancer off from the inside of the crankshaft pulley. My bolts didn't go all the way through the pulley. So I tapped the existing metric holes for 5/16-18. Threaded the bolts all the way through and it worked perfect. Just wanted to point that out.
Oh Dang that sucks! Glad it all worked out for you though!
Nice relaxed video. "Don't Panic or freak out" is a good thing to keep in mind when things don't go picture perfectly right away. ALSO... Factory torque specs for the main Damper pulley bolt is 250 lbs ft/lbs. Your engine sounds great. Many more miles to go. Toyota manual likes it if we replace the Damper/pulley bolt with a brand new one. Makes some sense if you consider that, properly cared for, this job may be done at least 3 or 4 more times. We do not want to mess up those threads for sure. Thanks for doing this video.
Factor in the tensioner. My older mechanic cousin taught me this. As long as the lines on the OEM belt line up you should be good. Remember there is slack in the belt. When you release the tensioner all the slack is removed. Go to 8:46 should help .
I just changed my timing belt after 17 years of used. My old timing belt still look good. I love Toyota products. For those of you the Toyota owner don't forget to pick up original Toyota Part. I am a living proof.
Thank you for this video. I replaced the timing belt, water pump, radiator, hoses, belts, and fan clutch following this video. I just rolled 209,000 miles on my 1999 4Runner Limitied.
You're very welcome
I did mine without pulling the radiator, but I have a manual transmission. Did not have a tool for the crankshaft bolt, so to get it off I just set my breaker bar against the frame and bumped the starter. The bolt loosened right up. To reinstall I had to use two small chains bolted into the pully and wrapped around the frame, one pulling from the top and one from the bottom. That prevented the pully from moving so I was able to apply correct torque. Worked perfectly.
Dont freak out if you rotate the engine after installing the belt and see the white line has moved from the mark on the cams, like in the video. Mine did that and I almost lost it till I realized that is normal.
Thank you
I'm very happy I was able to help you.
Awesome. Had to come back the next morning because we couldn't find/fabricate the damn crankshaft bolt remover but... We did it. Used this video as reference the whole time too - I have a 2000 4runner that needed this exact fix - same engine and all. Thanks for the upload!
The trick we used to get the thing off - We cut the timing belt, wrapped it around the center pully and used a few vice grips on it. When we went to pull the crankshaft bolt - didn't even budge.
Nice Job on the project and the video! I agree with mkrp4. Very methodical and organized. I hate learning from people that jump all over the place. I don't post comments on here often but was extremely impressed with you guys.
+hamstersampson Thank you.
As a professional youtube video viewer, i can say with out a doubt that this is a great video. Thanks for making it.
This is video is perfect ! The only thing I would change is the screen shot and title for searching . It took me watching three time wasting videos to get here .
Good job guys! Here's a Tip: You don't have to remove the A/C Compressor/Bracket if you have this tool. (Schley SCH97300 Toyota Timing Belt Tensioner Compressor) You can get it on Amazon for around $30 shipped. It'll save you time if you're not going to replace the tensioner. :)
Yep, good tip. If I had it to do again I'd do it this way. Saves about 3 hours by using the special tool.
@Andrew K
Or you can use 1/4" ratchet with long extension to get to the tensioner bolts without removing the compressor and bracket--takes 5 minutes. You do have to loosen the plastic bracket at the bottom front of the engine even with the top of the oil pan(2 small machine screws) so you can access the rear tensioner bolt
Hey Thanks for the reply. The truck Toyota T100 DX 1995 3.4 Liter / V6 / 5VZFE was running good when the water pump started leaking. I decided to replace the water pump & timing belt along with the front main seal, fan belts, Hydraulic Tensioner, timing belt, Tensioner Roller. It all went very hard as it was my first time. Needless to say the engine would not start. It would chug for a minute and the engine light came on. I dis assembled the the covers on the timing belt and all the marks are lined up (both cams TDC, camshaft gear mark lined up with the water pump, and the crankshaft pulley mark on 0. So I replaced the Camshaft Position Sensor 19300-62010 and put it all back together. It will only chug for a minute and just grind. Wait about 15 minutes and it will do the same thing. I checked the fuel filter on the engine side and it is getting fuel through the filter. I also smelled the exhaust pipe after its done chugging and it smells like fuel. Now I noticed that the crankshaft gear is smaller than the camshaft gears? In my strugel to remove the crankshaft bolt I know I turned the crank shaft a few turns more than the camshafts. My questions is as long as all the marks line up shouldn't I be good on the timing? Any help or guidance you could give me would be much appreciated.
Your timing was set wrong,
See my reply to Sam Sores above. Sorry it wouldn't let me copy and paste it here. Basically make sure #1 piston is coming up on compression stroke and when it is at the top of its travel on compression stroke all timing Mark's should line up. If not, then your timing will be off. Possibly 180 out.
Thumbs up video. Note the purpose of the removable section of the fan shroud is so you can remove and install the radiator with the shroud bolted to it. The lower piece easily clips in from the bottom once the radiator is mounted to the core support. Also, removal of the (PITA) AC compressor and bracket can be eliminated by using a screw jack special tool to compress the tensioner with the AC junk in place. (Schley Products SP97300)
A crank holding tool is also a worthwhile purchase. (Schley Products SL64400)
Search Ebay for the best prices on the special tools.
Tater PS Thank you! Tool noted on the description already. Using the tool has a risk of breaking the pulley though.
It is virtually impossible to break the tensioner pulley or the water pump pulley if you stop cranking on the tool when the capture pin hole aligns with the hole in the tensioner piston. I understand some folks may have more time than cash and it is good that there is an alternative way of compressing the tensioner, albeit, more difficult and time consuming. I have changed more 3.4l timing belts and water pumps than I can count, all using an in situ compression tool and have never damaged a pulley or pump.. Some wrongly believe that a tensioner compression tool exerts enormous force on the pulleys, when in fact, there is only slightly more force than what the tensioner is already exerting on the timing belt and thereby back at the pulleys. Anyway, just tossing my two cents into the Internet knowledge gumbo. Sometimes that is not a good thing. LOL. Keep up the good work.
Tater PS Unlikely to happen but can happen. Yes I agree cheaper alternative methods are always welcome.
The intake tube cleaned up my engine bay. It also changed the sound of my motor, other than that it has been on so long I don't even notice.
Glad to see that the power steering doesn't have to be completely removed. The A/C looks like a pain, though. I guess I need to get that tool.
I watched your video then changed out my timing belt and water pump today. Thanks for all the great tips. It made the job a lot more hassle-free.
Your very welcome.
You are welcome
Just got done doing mine. I was able to leave my AC/AC mount, I just used a long swivel extension to get to the tensioner to remove it. Installing the tensioner was just as easy. I used a vice to compress the tensioner then inserted a 1.5mm allen before installing.
Is this the best instructional video ever???
Matt Wagner simply put. no there’s more instructional
All except using torque wrench to break bolts loose!
Jiggle valve points 🔽🔽. You notice your temp is higher?
Very nice video. Thanks for your time.
If I may be permitted I would like to add;
1) a torque wrench should NEVER be used as a breaker bar. Only for TORQUING of the fasteners. 2) A 1.50” tip of a machinist scratch awl bent 90 degrees (or buying a one made as such) can be a great tool to get under rubber hose and between the hose and the neck to break the seal and make removal much easier. 3) The battery should be disconnected also to prevent any possibility of cranking the engine by mistake.
Great video. Thanks for the tip on the turn the crank a little to line the marks on the belt up with the dot. I tried and tried until I came across this. Thank man. Keep turning the wrenches and showing us how it’s done. Great video.
Best video on the topic!!
You guys should be teaching Automotive technology! I am serious!!
My bother is working towards it. I just know how to make videos. :)
Great video. Watched it several times before attempting to change my belt and pump etc. Definitely worth the watch. Felt like I had already done it. My only tip is unbolt the power steering pump and set it to the side to get to the AC bracket. Made my life much easier after trying for 2 hours to get it off w/o removing PS pump. Once removed only took 10 minutes to get bracket off. Anyways.., thanks SafteyDang!!
This video helped alot. I just bought a 94 4runner with the 3.0. Still have to get off the bracket connecting the power steering to the water pump and a few pulleys.
+volcom137z I got one too... You can get there...
+Doug Fairweather yeah got even just off now just waiting on parts T Ordered a timing belt kit for $140 shipped. Comes with everything .
Nice video. For the tbelt tensioner closest to the engine, use a 1/4 extension connected to a universal connected to a short 12mm. You can definitely sneak your way around the annoying bracket. I am actually doing that right now and was using this video as a guide. That'll save at least 30 min
I''ll pin your comment @Yuepeng. Lots of great tips for this video from many viewers. Should I do a follow up video?
This guy is awesome!
Did you try it in 3/8th? Or should i just go buy a 1/4 set?
3/8th will not work. I did try it because i felt like I was going to break my 1/4 set lol Luckily owning a high quality snap-on set actually comes in handy now and then :)
Thanks for the tip and the quick responds!
Thank you for taking the time to do this video. You are helping a lot of people.
Sorry, Google changed notifications for some reason. You are very welcome.
Convenience. Just changed timing belt on my 2001 Tacoma 3.4L for the second time and didn't remove radiator either time. Good idea to cut piece or cardboard or similar and place over inside of radiator for protection, though.
Excellent video!!!! Thanks for actually showing the work and not an "after" video. I will definitely use this video when it comes to the taco! Great job!
Awesome video. I've done this job twice and fumbled through it each time.
Thank you for the video. I just finished my 1996 4runner with your help. I would like to ad one thing though. make sure bottom line for crank shaft is opposite of top mark on crank shaft. As I unfortunately learned .
you're very welcome
Good job guys, excellent video, thank you for making this video. If you could add a short video on working with the timing belt tensioner, that would be fantastic. I haven't worked on this Tacoma previously. I bought it new in 2001 and had all the scheduled mainenance and repairs done at the local Toyota delaership. Big mistake! They do the work, but they don't go out of their way to clean up after themselves and use some degreaser. I've had 3 scheculed timing belt/water pump replacements done at the dealership, but the last timing belt change resulted in an issue at 20,000 miles into the new timing belt. My truck overheated because of a leaking water pump at the water pump gasket due to poor work habits by the toyota technician, He did not clean the engine block where the water pump bolts in. I spent the next several hours removing old gasket materails left behind by prevoius toyota techs who simply didn't notice, didn't care, I don't know. They also did not take the time to clean away some of the grease buildup. This truck timing belt/water pump area was absolutely caked in a petroleum residue, not good! I'm good in all areas of this except what to do to replace the timing belt tensioner. Will keep looking, thanks for you videos, you guys rock!
Thanks for watching MIchael. The main issue with making these videos is that the truck never needs service that often. :D A toyota problem I guess. If I ever get a chance I will try to make the video.
Thanks for your courteous response. We all learn from each other and if it helps doing the work better and safer, then it is all good.
What a great video! I just got a 4Runner yesterday and your video makes this less intimidating. Thanks!!!
You are welcome
great video ! air compressor bracket was the toughest part ,maybe enhance this on your instruction ,for people wondering the special tool that holds the flywheel ,the spacing on the bolts that go into the balancer were spaced at 2-7/8" on center and I used 5/16 x 2-1/2" grade 8 bolts drilled through and welded to 1/2" x 3" x 18" and with a torch I burned a hole for the socket . ratchet wrenches are a must ! thanks again SafetyDang
Thanks a million for this! I just did this job today with a buddy and it went super smooth thanks to your video! I did end up buying that Schley pulley holder tool which made taking the main crank pulley off a non issue, as well as putting it back on. I'm definitely not a fan of that dang AC bracket though.
I also think whoever changed the belt before me (If it was changed?) installed the Timing Belt guide backwards, cupped side towards the engine. It looked like it did scrape up the belt or something. I have 205,000 miles on the taco, but no idea when the belt was ever changed. Good to go now!
SafetyDang... thanks for the great vid... It is helping me do my job! True.. the worst part is getting the PITA bolt off (Hydraulic tensioner). I've just re-installed the Aircon pump and the rest should be a piece of cake.
Thanks for the vid...
Cheers,
Doug. (Australia)
Thank you
You just saved me $600 bucks. Thank you.
You're welcome
What should I charge for labor time on this job?
I would not be as fast as Mr dang so add on a couple more hours to whatever time it takes him to do it.
I want a realistic time for a experienced but doesn't do this job every day type mechanic, not just the Factory book time which would probably be way fewer hours than I would take. Thanks for any help
I'm an experienced mechanic but I don't do these everyday so it would be somewhere between the slowest and the fastest time for me to do it. Mr. Dang is very quick and knows exactly which tools and what he's doing through the entire job.
Very impressed with this video
Thanks for any help.
Thanks for the video. I did this and timing belt/water pump in the same weekend and everything went well.
Nice video! I have a 2000 tacoma and was thinking of taking this on. Removing compressor seems a little daunting. Is it necessary to disconnect refrigerant lines from the compressor as well? That means draining/refilling refrigerant, yuck.
Unfortunately I ended up disconnecting and letting the crap leak out since there was no other way to get my socket wrench in there. (Regular Wrench was looking like it would strip it since it's so damn tight) I just replaced the thermostat and waterpump looking to finish it up tomorrow. Gonna have to refill the compressor. Sure good time to clean up the bolts and engine with everything out.
Great job explaining this timing belt, it looks a bit difficult but doable if you follow SD's instructions.
@modestmoose83 Hm... Between work and school 2 weeks. Keep in mind I had to record everything. If you have 2 people who know what they are doing around 5 hours is correct.
Easy to follow, avoided mistakes and saved time.THANKS!
If an impact tool is used to remove the crankshaft bolt…is the special tool still required to remove the bolt?
I've seen people use an impact to get it off. I have also seen people use an impact and it not get it off. If your impact can do it then great. Just know it needs a special torque value around 200 something in the FSM.
Thanks for the feed back!! My 99 4runner is fixing to undergo this. I have watched the video about a dozen times. I feel like I have already done the job. Great video!! Seems like making the tool is better. Keep up the good work!! Trying to do it this week. I got all the parts in a kit on ebay. Many thank's to you for videos like this!! Your the man!!
24" chain wrench (www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000TDGHGY/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) with a piece of the old timing belt to protect the harmonic balancer works great--but does take 2 people and a lot of force to torque to the FSM 217 ft/lbs. Just did the belt, water pump, tensioner, pulleys, seals and thermostat with 218,000 original miles--no wonder 4Runners have a bulletproof reputation!
How do you know whether or not you're at TDC on the compression or exhaust stroke? Does it not matter when you're doing the timing belt?
Yes it matters. Look at the CAM Gear, there is a line. If you use the toyota belt the line should match up with that cam gear line during installation. On the CRANK shaft there is also a line. Line that mark up with the Belt line.
Noticed your valve cover on the passenger side looks extremely clean. Keep an eye on that b/c the gaskets are notorious for leaking. I say keep an eye on it b/c I just did mine and cleaning off that old grime and oil is a pain!!!
I have the parts, just need a case of beer and some friends to film.
+SafetyDang For sure, it's not so fun and company would've been helpful haha. Swap out your rear cam plug seals (mine had a bit of a leak), spark plug tube seals, and re seal those half moons. I got a pretty sweet kit on amazon for $70. Had everything and more, hopefully I never need to use exhaust manifold and head gaskets!!!!!
I appreciate the simple details and to the point.
thanks for the video. i've been told to test your new thermostat before installing. its not that uncommon to get a new one that does not open
Any idea why that would be?
@@stephenbenedetto988 Poor manufacturing.
Milwaukee ratchet, 12in. 1/4" drive extension and 12mm uniwiggle socket and some good fishing skills and the ac bracket can stay put. Yeah I know, everyone mentioned that already haha
Im replacing mine right now and this video is a great reference ! Thanks for going out of your way ! I laugh every time I hear that guy grunt trying to get the crank shaft bolt out ! LMAO :-)
You have to loosen the bolt in the center of the idler pulley in order to tighten the belt. Screw in idler pulley adjustment screw to tighten belt then re-tighten pulley center bolt.
Thanks for the video! Very helpful. In the process of changing head gaskets, timing and water-pump.
Toyota es TOYOTA! the best.
Hi,
Thanks for the helpful video. I did not see in the video the use of a harmonic balancer installer tool. I thought that tool is necessary to seat the balancer fully in place.
L
Oh wow! Very nicely detailed information. I still wouldn’t try it. I know I’m gonna mess up at one point. Thanks
My friend has the 2004 Tacoma with the 3.4 and locking diff. He is getting vibration when stopping 15-0 MPH and same vibration accelerating from 0-15MPH. Went through all suspension components and they are mint. (today we flushing both diffs, transfer case, transmission, coolant, did shocks and brakes.) coupler bearing going to driveshaft? This issue is very common in the forums. He does off road a lot.
BassManBobBassCovers Are you referring to the center carrier bearing. Yes they do go bad quite often. OEM is the only way to go on these.
I think that is what I am referring to lol. Thank you! I will check it out. OEM is 100% the way to go.
Spark plugs, fuel filter and carrier bearing tonight. Still same vibration 10-0 and 0-10. But better. Driveshaft perfectly marked, exact same spline on the adapter plate, securing nut torqued to exact same location. Thinking spline damage, transfer case damage or driveshaft damage. or clutch only in 1st gear.
The carrier bearing was totally trashed though lol...
No problem! Glad I'm able to help other owners out there with there engine work.
If you take out some spark plugs it'll be easier to rotate the engine by hand.
I really like this video! Thanks for being very thorough!!!
Great video!! Quick question if when installing the timing belt the right camshaft move a little to the left should I turn it two time resetting to tDC
If it comes off the cam you can spin it around again to center it
Thanks so much! I'm only @ 77K on my '02, But I have been thinking about doing the timing belt/water pump a little early, just to be on the safe side.
OE parts ✔. Green coolant though? Isn't Pentosin Red recommend?
Yes red is recommended. I was a poor college student, still am.
@emmanuel mata if your talking about the head valve cover gasket I just replace mine I will be posting my video soon.
it appears we have the same truck. are you having any problem when you hit the brake, the truck sometimes shake or vibrates. i tried replacing all my brakes (front rotors including calipers/pads and the back drums), front suspension with no avail
I didn't have any problems before but I swapped to Tundra rotors and pads and never had a problem.
Excellent video.. The only suggestion is to review the coolant requirement since you used prestone green.. The truck looks newer in video and Toyota recommends the red or pink coolant. I personally use Zerex G-05 for all cars I own with no issues
I need to tighten the 3rd belt you took off. Not the Alternator or fan belt. But the "Middle" one. Can I just tighten the tensioner or do I have to loosen that pully as well like you did?
Did you have to discharge your AC system in order to remove the AC compressor? According to the Haynes manual, the AC compressor needs to be removed in order to remove the bracket in the way of loosening the belt tensioner.
No keep the line on.
Is necessary to change the tbelt tensioner. I have 211K miles and I don't know if it's been done. It looks pretty rusty...
I would while you are in there. Really depends on inspection.
Pin can be a small allen or screw driver anything that is strong enough and small enough to fit the pin hole. The Cam tool was made. If you read the description there is a link to the page.
Well it's a known issues with the tacomas and 4runner that the trans cooler in side the rad fails and mixes coolant with the transmission fluid. So alot of guys bypass the rad to a external transmission cooler. Its a pretty easy mod to do. I think most guys use the B&M cooler. The TRD one is pretty expensive.
I am on the same timing belt and water pump for the last 11 yrs. I have about 185k on them, truck has 285k and will think about changing them out at about 350k. this thing just last forever and runs forever, only changed 4 sets of tires, two batteries, one set of starter contacts and that's it, plus the usual fluid changes.
Amazing rigs!
Wow! What a great video! I have been trying to find an in depth video for my install. I am pretty sure i will use this video as a guide. Way to go dang.
Question, How do I make sure that the pistons are TDC before I put the timing belt on? Do I just align the pulley with the marks on the engine by rotating the cams clockwise until they are aligned?
Yes! that is correct. Best not to try to go counter clock wise more than 1 tooth. So if you go past it once its ok. Also watch for your Crank shaft pulley on the bottom. It also has a line. Best to adjust it with the old belt before removing it.
Not sure on this engine, but if you remove the #1 spark plug on a Chevrolet or engine with similar valve train, on compression strike all valves are closed and if you place your finger or a compression guage where the #1 spark plug was you will feel/see pressure build u as the piston comes toward TDC. Then you can insert a long plastic or wooden stick in the sparkplug hole and slowly turn the crank watching the stick move up and out until it starts to change direction of movement. Then you are just passed TDC. Also watch the timing mark alignment on the crank pulley or gear as it lines up. Not sure if rotating it backwards if you barely go past will matter, but it seems it's not recommended to do counterclockwise rotation of the engine. Get video. Though I have seen a couple where the radiator was not removed. I guess it depends on the space available in different model engine compartments or preference. FYI! I will say a new crank bolt and correct torquing of said bolt seems imperative to prevent loosening and potential computer timing adjustment issues and possible failure. Saw one video where the crank gear key way was worn to twice its normal width and the owners had replaced several other parts trying to track down a loss of power problem due to timing constantly shifting.
awesome brother i have a question where can i get the tool to remove de fan bolt and the big pulley because im trying to buy but i do not where than you
Welded some light tabs on the bumper. I need to do the same for my Trail Gear bumper now. :)
Fantastic video, thank you for documenting in such great detail. Going to be tackling this soon.
Sorry Google changed notifications for some reason. Thanks for your comment.
great video. can't believe how involved this process is!
Sorry for the late reply, Thank you!
great vid - my valve seals are leaking oil and I'm looking at pulling the heads for a complete valve job at a machine shop. If I'm not mistaken, I would do everything you've done here but obviously continue on with actually pulling the heads off right? Of course the exhaust and intake systems would be removed too, but I would also be replacing my timing belt and water pump as part of the job.
Correct its an easy job. Just make sure to take your time and remember every little thing.
Thanks a lot for your video, it helps me a lot putting my 4runner back to run.
Got my 98 Tacoma took apart and went ahead and put the water pump on. Looks like the piece below the water pump I think it's the oil pump seal is also leaking oil. Going to fix that oil leak while I've got everything else off. What all goes into replacing that gasket or seal?Ps the video for the water pump has been awesome! Very helpful
You're welcome John. I'm not sure I know which seal you're talking about. Can you email me with more info?
Yeah what's your email? Couldn't find it on here
john coop It is at the end of the video. I don't post it due to spammers.
Thanks for the video, it seems very helpful. do I have to buy a timing belt kit.
it will save you money
subscribed!
Nice job! Will follow it again doing mine Prado 1998 at 300000KM
Please send pictures of your Prado to my email Steve!
One of the best informative videos I've seen. Sorry for the noob question, but why are the belt lines off when your turned the pulley to adjust the belt?
Like how you did the video step by step and what to look for not just filming after differant stages
I realize this video is a few yrs old, hopefully this question gets answered. After installing the belt & you manually rotate the assembly, how many times did you have to rotate the assembly back to TDC to get the cam pulleys & crank pulley back to TDC? Odd question, but I'm getting multiple answers that don't add up. I'm having a no start issue since doing mine & have cranked it via starter multiple times, after a couple attempts to manually set it to TDC the passenger side cam pulley & crank are at TDC, but the driver side cam pulley is 180° out at BDC. Which makes me think the belt wasn't properly aligned. Hence the no start.
wes yount I think he forgot.
hi great video I did my t belt before I watch this how come after u set TDC and install toyota belt with marks when u bring it back around the belt marts a a little off but everything still seems to be at TDC ?
+Garen Watts I just did my belt and had the same result I also noticed the same result in this video the belt seams to move one notch but the cams and crank indicators indicate that everything is still at top dead center. upon further research I found an explanation from someone else here is what they said "DrWooPigSooie The belt marks are only for initial calibration, once tensioner is set watch only the notches on cam and crank pulleys for
alignment" in other words as long as the cams and crank continue to line up on TDC your good to go
+John Gubler marks on the belt are used to assure correct amount of teeth between timing marks to prevent slack ("extra teeth") and late timing. Having pre-printed marks makes installation a lot easier (you don't have to count the teeth or calculate number of them (dividing belt segment length by tooth pitch )
Hi,
Thanks for the video. I am sure I am overdue for timing belt replacement. My water pump seems ok (128,000miles), but I was thinking I should change it out as I will have everything off to do it easily then. How do I adjust the correct tension on the new belt?
Thanks,
Doug
You don't, the tensioner does that automatically for you
Thank you for the video. I just to replace my timing belt and water pump and belts on my 4runner 5vz-fe 3.4L V6. what kind of tools do I need and what happen when you timing belt is not line up? help please do this on my own.
Safety dang that pin that you pull out after you install the belt is that special tool time 6:30. Because you did not mention anything placing that pin. Regarding about that bar that you were using to turn the cam any chance you know the part number for that or what company might be selling it. Tnx