You're a busy man Steve, don't know how you find the time to video this stuff, but I'm sure glad you do. I'm looking forward to the return of the better, badder wagon. Thanks for sharing your work with us!
goes hand in hand with the amount of work he has put in in the last what 10+ years of engineering/building/breaking/repeating lol his business deserves to thrive and the effort he puts into the videos really bring in eyes from all over the world, im from Australia so i hit the roof when i seen the billet barra main cap and the ford head being ported by sm lol we need steve morris cloned and 1 sent to Australia😂😂
I'm getting really hooked on this channel! There are perfectionists and then there is Steve! True master of his craft! Hope to be lucky enough one day to get my hands on one of your beast engines! Great stuff, keep it up! Cheers from Hungary
Every time I show my father your videos he giggles, shakes his head and says, "We would hope for numbers like that in the front engine on nitro - (head shake) here they are driving it on the street with a/c and interior. Amazing."
1. WANT! 2. I feel a little dumber each time I watch your stuff. 15 years ago I wouldn't have ever believed where this stuff has gotten this far. Just awesome.
I see that i am late to the party but to everyone who ignored the rest of the video and the priceless knowledge he's giving us for free, simply because he made simple a math error. You all need a big hug cuz u clearly had a dad u could never impressed because he always pointed out the one little mistake u made. Even if that mistake dont really matter at the end of the day n has no negative impact on the task at hand. Great video steve n never forget how many ppl u inspire to learn something new and give proof to the saying (as long as you dont give up you will never truly fail) i wish i had ur work ethic,pride,kindness,n so much more but im just a guy who cant stand ppl that hate on others just to feel important for a few seconds, im also disabled so i could never even afford a paymen plan for something like this but my dream is to have a 67 camaro with a 427 n twin 63mm turbos, a transmission, driveshaft and rear end that can handle the max power it would make,drag n drive car. That would make me truly happy if i could say something like that was mine.
Steve, I turned one of the other racers onto you and your products and sense of duty to your customers. He’s having all of the problems you have fixed. He’s running somebody’s CBB and having the the oil shortage problems you solved in the SMX. I pointed out with all the stuff he was having trouble with (oil staying in the top of the motor, spun bearings an needing new rod {thinking about aluminum} lifters getting too much oil and heads also that they realized they had around 3qts in the pan fo the run which caused bent forged rods an also the crank balance weights were drilled down straight in the crank a came out! The dad asked what the mullet was running and I said SMX BY STEVE MORRIS!! Gave them you RUclips and told them to look around and see the whole operation you’ve built on meticulous tuning and craftsmanship!!!❤️💜😎
I'm late to the party but I'm sure Steve really appreciated u doing that so great job n to the ppl being a hater, go play in highway traffic blindfolded n wait for me to show up.
I know you just stumbled on live recording: base is 14# atmosphere, you double base (minus losses) at 14.7 boost , you triple BASE minus losses at 30#. Your probably going to laugh when you look back at this. Love your builds and glad to have some of your parts on my current build!
Go back and watch his twin supercharged video about a month or so ago he takes you though the whole process it's an hour long video and one of the best I think
Go back and watch his twin supercharged video about a month or so ago he takes you though the whole process it's an hour long video and one of the best I think
A lot of people forget about the first atmosphere, zero boost. 15 psi is the second atmosphere and 30psi is thrird atmospheres. The engine makes about a 1000hp per bar. Running boost in PSIA rather than PSIG would straighten that out.
Technically, one atmosphere is 14.7 psi. Every engine has 14.7 psi of pressure pushing into it. 2 atmospheres would be 29 psi. 3 would be 44 psi. 15 psi of air from your power adder is just on top on the 14.7 psi already pushing into it. You're also increasing air density. I get that you're strictly speaking about what the power adder is producing, but just in case there's someone out there who doesn't understand, all engines run on 14.7 psi of "boost". Or, as close to 14.7 psi as engine vacuum will allow.
Can’t wait to see follow ups tm? Great vids. Super pumped your on utube doin this stuff. We really needed somone like you on here. Wish you’d get the recognition you deserve on this.
I dont think its double every atmosphere its every atmosphere is equal to the na power. 1000hp na would roughly be 2000 at 15psi then 3000 at 30psi bumping to 45 would get you 4k and 60psi 5000hp at that math you are perfectly inline with power. Obviously pushing the turbos will raise back pressure and drop efficiency so it might stop gaining at some point
Steve can you go over turbos and how they can be angled, I’ve always heard that they need to be level to ensure proper oiling to the journal. Or if there is another video you have explaining that already.
Different types of turbos have different oil needs. Ball bearing vs journal bearing is totally different. Too much oil can be a bad thing for ball bearing turbos as it actually slows down the ball bearings having to push fluid rather than just roll. Part of why they restrict oil on ball bearing turbos. Journal bearings require they float on the oil so a lot more oil flow is needed. lower oil flow and odd angle can lead to odd wear on a journal bearing turbo but not on a ball bearing turbo.
Most manufacturers ask for 30* or less for the drain. This is fairly common knowledge. And you can find the information by simply doing a google search.
In addition to your question, how long should the engine idle after a hard run to allow the turbo bearing to cool off. Though completely different animals, I have a friend that put on a big turbo on his Cummins truck motor and the turbo seized. I'm not sure if all turbos benefit or require 30 seconds, or even a minute or more to idle and allow the bearings to cool.
I built a 468 and bought a fiTec 1200 hp. I broke in the cam with an old 750 and can't wait to hear it run with the FiTec. Put a 2 inch spacer in it love your tec videos
Thanks for taking some time to explain your ignition timing settings. I recall most stock V8’s running above 30 degrees at higher RPM’s. Do understand with your power adders, factoring in fuel type, being conservative.
I use to be a N/A guy but the first boosted car i rode in changed my whole mindset. Use to wanna break windows when i hit the gas but now i hit the gas to hear the blow offs. I wanted my car to be as loud as it was fast but now i like how its much less painful and or annoying to ppl n other cars i pass n the women dont mind it a bit quieter as well so its an all around win for my soul. Dont think ill ever chang to a different setup other then turbo/twin turbos.
Do you think that the 12 magnet dampener could be what's causing Garrett's problems with Ruby? It has that front mounted crank trigger setup with a holly, and ever since they've switched it to that type of cps it has broken up and looses rpm/crank signal. It's been like 2 years, and they still haven't gotten it right.
Question is there any truth to the rod angle on a sbc 400 loading the skirt area making it a low rpm motor ? And if you don't mind what is your SMX motor rod angle . Or are those tales ? Thanks . Keith
regarding power doubling... if adding an atmosphere added NA engine power, and you're at 2100 at 15psi (1atm boost), I'd expect 1.5x that at 30psi (2atm boost), 3000 and change, and a little over 1000 NA. Not saying it does, but nobody is suggesting going from 15psi to 30psi doubles your power - it increases it by 50%.
The rule of thumb is for every one bar of boost you add you double your naturally aspirated horsepower. So if your engine is a 1000 horsepower naturally aspirated you add one bar of boost you are at 2000 horsepower. If you add two bars of boost you will be at 3,000 horsepower. Two bars of boost is almost 30 PSI
Let’s say you where commanding 30 psi boost from 5000 rpm and 30 psi at 8000. How early (rpm wise) would the turbos be able to deliver 30 psi ? And how would the hp/tq graph be looking? Awesome channel! One day I’ll own a SMX engine 🤩 #lifegoal
Hi Steve, my name is Kenny, I live in Michigan. I am building a twin turbo stage II Buick V6, looking for some advice for building the hot side. What tubing size, gage, and alloy do you recommend?
I’m late watching this video, so maybe someone else has commented, but you said doubling boost from 15 psi to 30 would not double horsepower. The answer is you left out the first 15-ish pounds of boost from the atmosphere. If you think of that 2100 hp run as somewhere over 2 atmospheres, then go to 3, the math works out almost exactly. In fact you showed the NA engine must be close to 1000 hp, then 2000 at around 15 and 3000 at 30. The old reference 1 or reference 0 error… Regardless, an interesting display of “effortless” horsepower! Thanks!
Hp vs boost is roughly right, but it starts with 0, not atmosphere…. So that thing makes ~2000hp at 15 psi, which means it’s probably ~1000 naturally aspirated. So then 30psi would be in the order of 3000hp, 45 psi around 4000, 60psi around 5000, 75psi in the 6000 class. Love your videos and education.
That ignition map is interesting. I tune 4v/cyl BMW turbo engines (and others) for street performance and we tend to ramp the timing up after the torque peak/etc. Looks like you run just linear timing against kPA regardless of RPM. I mean that 5000 RPM @ PSI is 23.1 deg Adv but so is 7500 RPM. Is this an ignition map you run on the street/drag week or just track?
It's a dyno map, and nothing more for multiple reasons. Consistency, ease of making a base fuel map, seating the rings at different boost levels, and issues will be far more obvious when doing things the same way every time. That style timing map is the best way I know of doing it as well. Bore dia. versus boost, to a good spread of cells to set up the base fuel map easily. Ignition maps at the track are based on time and traction control for the most part, there are a few ways to do it based on the cars setup. On the street it is for cruising, temp, efficiency, and limiting power output so it is safe to drive. Those maps wont look anything like the dyno map, or yours for that matter. One is limiting power and running on 91 octane gasoline. The other is to get from a to b as quickly as possible without overpowering the available traction. Both are a bit different than tuning for performance on the street. You detune these engines on the street, massively. And the track/air quality/elevation/etc determines the tune at the track. Then you run timing based on what you know will survive...
You running methanol in those BMW's? Also have to consider the engine hard parts and configuration. I have a feeling your engines won't tolerate bringing in the timing sooner for very long. He talked at length about the timing. Short answer it is not for the street, nor the track.
@@ShainAndrews Yes but that doesn't change much. Still ramp fuel up after torque peak. I didn't say I bring timing in sooner - we just do not typically modify timing only by RPM. I can throw a significant amount of timing at a 30+ psi E85/methanol car after 5300 rpm and it picks up big time power.
@@shvrdavid That's what I'd like to know. I mean I can set a timing map relative static with pulling per psi but was curious what Steve does for like drag week cars.
@@JKGarageBMW Steve is known for mild tuning. His SMX engines don't need to be run near the edge and can still crank out serious hp leaving power on the table. And unless you are timing one of his engines, his timing setup is useless on another setup unless it is very similar engine. The way he does it, is not useless, and comes from experience. I know where you are coming from on wanting to know how he does it, but at the same time know how he got to where he is tuning them to live at 4000 hp. Reading the plugs, egt's, etc, is how you get a good, safe and reliable setup. Think of it as tuning for the street, then backing the timing off to lower cylinder pressure and heat. I know, that sounds counter productive, but it is not.. The small percentage of HP you might loose to make it live is a moot point... Customers come to you to get more power in a tune. Steve's base tunes are so it will survive 4000 hp for a certain number of runs before needing gone thru... How many cars do you tune that need to be gone thru every 1000 miles?
if you say go watch a different video please link it in the description. Thanks Steve, As I go find/watch piston delete video after starting the 3000hp video after starting the 4000hp video
Steve can I make a suggestion, just a small one for your videos in the shop can you get a wireless lapel mic because your fading in and out and your plosives in your speech are causing audio issues on me end, I know you do this for educational purposes so let me give back a little. It'll help having your audio consistent instead of fading in and out and making my speakers fart and clip.
Just a joke, but would love to see the HP numbers on it with the Cleeter eater NITROUS SPRAYER through the turbos for Denver 5,000 ft elevation power adder system, a horrible idea that actually worked, getting him the number one spot with Mullet for that drag and drive event. Only a guy with more dollars than sense would do that with a Steve Morris already twin turbo boosted engine. But, it did almost work to perfection, wound those babies right up to get them up to speed fast. Massive altitude, matched by a nearly instant wind up. Got him right up on the chip. Ziiiiiiiing.
If there was no parasitic draw from the exhaust side of the turbo, it would double every 14.7 psi. Unfortunately, the back pressure of the turbo goes up as boost goes up. That's where the turbo compressor map comes into play... With some math and pressure sensors, you could figure it out. Or just throw it on a Dyno!
In your opening run down you mentioned trying to run a 4 magnet crank wheel but it didn't work to your satisfaction. I have a twin turbo 555 bbc with a FT600, coil near plug, 4 magnet crank wheel. At 6300 rpm acts like it hits limiter. 15 psi boost limiter is 7000. Could this be a 4 magnet symptom? Plugs gapped at .016, msd coils 5ms dwell. A/F 10.8 on E 85.. Probably the wrong place to ask.. But thought I'd try anyway. thanks
Have you been around racing long or do you not know the bigger it is the more power you make that is how it was for years to go faster more cubic inch now we have turbos and a 900 cubic inch motor won't last long on boost so you question is really dumb why would someone want a 900 cubic inch engine maybe power ...... stupid
Love the fact that Steve is always trying to learn us something. What a great channel.
learn us lmao
He commitacate not English good
You're a busy man Steve, don't know how you find the time to video this stuff, but I'm sure glad you do. I'm looking forward to the return of the better, badder wagon. Thanks for sharing your work with us!
goes hand in hand with the amount of work he has put in in the last what 10+ years of engineering/building/breaking/repeating lol his business deserves to thrive and the effort he puts into the videos really bring in eyes from all over the world, im from Australia so i hit the roof when i seen the billet barra main cap and the ford head being ported by sm lol we need steve morris cloned and 1 sent to Australia😂😂
I'm getting really hooked on this channel!
There are perfectionists and then there is Steve! True master of his craft!
Hope to be lucky enough one day to get my hands on one of your beast engines!
Great stuff, keep it up!
Cheers from Hungary
Lol the “how dare you” sticker 😂😂😂
Wealth of knowledge being shared as always. It's on par with being in a classroom setting. 👍👍
Every time I show my father your videos he giggles, shakes his head and says, "We would hope for numbers like that in the front engine on nitro - (head shake) here they are driving it on the street with a/c and interior. Amazing."
How dare you on the picture, love it, LOL
1. WANT!
2. I feel a little dumber each time I watch your stuff. 15 years ago I wouldn't have ever believed where this stuff has gotten this far. Just awesome.
Those curves are SO smooth, as are those turbos. Awesome stuff!
I see that i am late to the party but to everyone who ignored the rest of the video and the priceless knowledge he's giving us for free, simply because he made simple a math error. You all need a big hug cuz u clearly had a dad u could never impressed because he always pointed out the one little mistake u made. Even if that mistake dont really matter at the end of the day n has no negative impact on the task at hand. Great video steve n never forget how many ppl u inspire to learn something new and give proof to the saying (as long as you dont give up you will never truly fail) i wish i had ur work ethic,pride,kindness,n so much more but im just a guy who cant stand ppl that hate on others just to feel important for a few seconds, im also disabled so i could never even afford a paymen plan for something like this but my dream is to have a 67 camaro with a 427 n twin 63mm turbos, a transmission, driveshaft and rear end that can handle the max power it would make,drag n drive car. That would make me truly happy if i could say something like that was mine.
Greta sticker on window is perfect!!
Another thoroughly entertaining technical video by someone who knows his stuff!
Thanks for taking the time to show how to smooth the fueling!
Boy do I WISH.....WOW! Awesome stuff and info Steve. Thanks for all you do for the industry.
Awesome information , love seeing how you go through the tuning .
I love the how dare you sticker
First thing I said is this better be a 20+min video!!!,thanks Steve,teaching all of us so much !!!!!!
Always enjoy listening Steve. While working...
Steve, I turned one of the other racers onto you and your products and sense of duty to your customers. He’s having all of the problems you have fixed. He’s running somebody’s CBB and having the the oil shortage problems you solved in the SMX. I pointed out with all the stuff he was having trouble with (oil staying in the top of the motor, spun bearings an needing new rod {thinking about aluminum} lifters getting too much oil and heads also that they realized they had around 3qts in the pan fo the run which caused bent forged rods an also the crank balance weights were drilled down straight in the crank a came out! The dad asked what the mullet was running and I said SMX BY STEVE MORRIS!! Gave them you RUclips and told them to look around and see the whole operation you’ve built on meticulous tuning and craftsmanship!!!❤️💜😎
Cletus is not running an SMX motor he's running a Dart block motor. Built by Steve Morris
@@TainterRacing ya this kid has no idea he prolly showed his buddy and now he thinks he did something wtf
I'm late to the party but I'm sure Steve really appreciated u doing that so great job n to the ppl being a hater, go play in highway traffic blindfolded n wait for me to show up.
660👍's up Steve Morris thank you for sharing your Graeter service and engine building and experience with us all
Nice pulls and tuning info, thank you SM for allowing us to watch over your shoulder in your office at work! Great engine build!
I know you just stumbled on live recording: base is 14# atmosphere, you double base (minus losses) at 14.7 boost , you triple BASE minus losses at 30#. Your probably going to laugh when you look back at this. Love your builds and glad to have some of your parts on my current build!
Man that thing is like jewellery, stunning looking motor
What a beautiful engine ! Another awesome video Steve have a great weekend. Keith
Wow! That’s a ton of horsepower’s!! How different is Holley and fuel techs O2 readings? I didn’t realize they were far off.
Great video Steve, thnx for step by step tuning. Very helpful for us old school guys trying to play catch-up with today's technology.✌️😎
Amen!
Go back and watch his twin supercharged video about a month or so ago he takes you though the whole process it's an hour long video and one of the best I think
Go back and watch his twin supercharged video about a month or so ago he takes you though the whole process it's an hour long video and one of the best I think
@@charlestorruella8591 thnx for the heads up
Nothing to say. Just here to support the channel. Love this stuff!
thank you for taking your time to share
Awesome really like the technical side great video thanks 👍
Good show Steve
Thank you for sharing.
Love it! The fuel table graph is interesting… so is that how it should look for most engine applications??
Yes
Boosted stuff
The pipe adjusted itself for more optimal flow. Awesome. Might be a new trick to use before welding a system up?
I just love the look of them Head's on this beast Godspeed
Really enjoy these videos mate.
FULL PUUULLLL!
There are Engine Builders and then there is Steve Morris, BadAss, A cut above the Rest, Getcha some !!
A lot of people forget about the first atmosphere, zero boost. 15 psi is the second atmosphere and 30psi is thrird atmospheres. The engine makes about a 1000hp per bar. Running boost in PSIA rather than PSIG would straighten that out.
I was getting ready to comment the same thing. It’s gaining right according to plan.
Technically, one atmosphere is 14.7 psi. Every engine has 14.7 psi of pressure pushing into it. 2 atmospheres would be 29 psi. 3 would be 44 psi.
15 psi of air from your power adder is just on top on the 14.7 psi already pushing into it. You're also increasing air density. I get that you're strictly speaking about what the power adder is producing, but just in case there's someone out there who doesn't understand, all engines run on 14.7 psi of "boost". Or, as close to 14.7 psi as engine vacuum will allow.
Can’t wait to see follow ups tm? Great vids. Super pumped your on utube doin this stuff. We really needed somone like you on here. Wish you’d get the recognition you deserve on this.
Great video my guy! Love the techie vids about tuning!
Hell yeah watching ya build n tune them big inch motors .. Gonna watch the 4000 HP one here In a few
That wiggle of the waste gate dump was it for me thoe 😍😍😍😂😂😂
He's the only man that can put 3000 hp and beginners in 1 sentece and also This is the only man in the country that blew every rod out of an engine
Love the schooling! Can’t wait to meet you someday.
Great video.Thank you for this one.ps, love the Greta logo.
That front belt strumming is driving me NUTS.
Looks great with the motion breathers
Thats crazy horse power, great info, thank you sir!
I dont think its double every atmosphere its every atmosphere is equal to the na power. 1000hp na would roughly be 2000 at 15psi then 3000 at 30psi bumping to 45 would get you 4k and 60psi 5000hp at that math you are perfectly inline with power. Obviously pushing the turbos will raise back pressure and drop efficiency so it might stop gaining at some point
Thats what I remember!
that is right, look at the new video at 4000hp and 45 psi
It’s like being a fabricator
there’s a picture in your head and you have to make it reality
Nice 👍 👍👍👍👍👍👍
Steve have you ever used or thought of using electronic wastegates since they integrate with FuelTech really well?
Yes, go back to the Piston Delete video
I have them on my car
👍 magic! Thank You for Sharing!
The wagon with a woody 😁
That engine is a beast!!
Steve can you go over turbos and how they can be angled, I’ve always heard that they need to be level to ensure proper oiling to the journal. Or if there is another video you have explaining that already.
I'd be interested to learn this as well
Different types of turbos have different oil needs. Ball bearing vs journal bearing is totally different. Too much oil can be a bad thing for ball bearing turbos as it actually slows down the ball bearings having to push fluid rather than just roll. Part of why they restrict oil on ball bearing turbos. Journal bearings require they float on the oil so a lot more oil flow is needed. lower oil flow and odd angle can lead to odd wear on a journal bearing turbo but not on a ball bearing turbo.
Most manufacturers ask for 30* or less for the drain. This is fairly common knowledge. And you can find the information by simply doing a google search.
Running Turbos on a dry sump motor are different, only because you can use the oil pump as a scavenge pump for the turbo's.
In addition to your question, how long should the engine idle after a hard run to allow the turbo bearing to cool off.
Though completely different animals, I have a friend that put on a big turbo on his Cummins truck motor and the turbo seized. I'm not sure if all turbos benefit or require 30 seconds, or even a minute or more to idle and allow the bearings to cool.
I built a 468 and bought a fiTec 1200 hp. I broke in the cam with an old 750 and can't wait to hear it run with the FiTec. Put a 2 inch spacer in it love your tec videos
Them are some Billy Bad Boi Turbos👌🏻🤘🏻🇺🇸
Thanks for taking some time to explain your ignition timing settings. I recall most stock V8’s running above 30 degrees at higher RPM’s. Do understand with your power adders, factoring in fuel type, being conservative.
Turbos Always sound amazing!!! And use wasted energy to boot!!👌🏻😍
I use to be a N/A guy but the first boosted car i rode in changed my whole mindset. Use to wanna break windows when i hit the gas but now i hit the gas to hear the blow offs. I wanted my car to be as loud as it was fast but now i like how its much less painful and or annoying to ppl n other cars i pass n the women dont mind it a bit quieter as well so its an all around win for my soul. Dont think ill ever chang to a different setup other then turbo/twin turbos.
Steve rustles the jimmies
Hope you get the chance to test the new Hart’s supercharger soon. Thanks for your time and knowledge.
Great content thanks for sharing
Dude is a freakin legend 💪 and he shows us amazing content.
Serious serious unit that's what you call let's get down brother
Wow those turbos seem nice!
Fantastic stuff…as usual
Do you think that the 12 magnet dampener could be what's causing Garrett's problems with Ruby? It has that front mounted crank trigger setup with a holly, and ever since they've switched it to that type of cps it has broken up and looses rpm/crank signal. It's been like 2 years, and they still haven't gotten it right.
Question is there any truth to the rod angle on a sbc 400 loading the skirt area making it a low rpm motor ? And if you don't mind what is your SMX motor rod angle . Or are those tales ? Thanks . Keith
You are the man Steve !
Lovin your wrk Steve!
baby boost,,,wt. love it,,,mega cool video s ,thanks Steve
regarding power doubling... if adding an atmosphere added NA engine power, and you're at 2100 at 15psi (1atm boost), I'd expect 1.5x that at 30psi (2atm boost), 3000 and change, and a little over 1000 NA.
Not saying it does, but nobody is suggesting going from 15psi to 30psi doubles your power - it increases it by 50%.
The rule of thumb is for every one bar of boost you add you double your naturally aspirated horsepower. So if your engine is a 1000 horsepower naturally aspirated you add one bar of boost you are at 2000 horsepower. If you add two bars of boost you will be at 3,000 horsepower. Two bars of boost is almost 30 PSI
Let’s say you where commanding 30 psi boost from 5000 rpm and 30 psi at 8000.
How early (rpm wise) would the turbos be able to deliver 30 psi ? And how would the hp/tq graph be looking?
Awesome channel! One day I’ll own a SMX engine 🤩 #lifegoal
Hi Steve, my name is Kenny, I live in Michigan.
I am building a twin turbo stage II Buick V6, looking for some advice for building the hot side. What tubing size, gage, and alloy do you recommend?
Wow i love these vids. I wish i could have you take a look at my 350, and balance and blueprint and finish tune it. : (
He could if you cough up some bread
I’m late watching this video, so maybe someone else has commented, but you said doubling boost from 15 psi to 30 would not double horsepower. The answer is you left out the first 15-ish pounds of boost from the atmosphere. If you think of that 2100 hp run as somewhere over 2 atmospheres, then go to 3, the math works out almost exactly. In fact you showed the NA engine must be close to 1000 hp, then 2000 at around 15 and 3000 at 30. The old reference 1 or reference 0 error… Regardless, an interesting display of “effortless” horsepower! Thanks!
So i got to ask if when you say corrections are you runing closed loop so like 0 2
Hot Keys, "V" vertical interpolation, "H" horizontal interpolation. I'd love to hear your thoughts on the e-gates. Thanks for sharing.
The power of 3 Atmospheres ! lol
Hp vs boost is roughly right, but it starts with 0, not atmosphere…. So that thing makes ~2000hp at 15 psi, which means it’s probably ~1000 naturally aspirated. So then 30psi would be in the order of 3000hp, 45 psi around 4000, 60psi around 5000, 75psi in the 6000 class.
Love your videos and education.
Do you have to remove one magnet on the trigger wheel to make it work with the Fueltech system? Ty.
Awesome video !!
That ignition map is interesting. I tune 4v/cyl BMW turbo engines (and others) for street performance and we tend to ramp the timing up after the torque peak/etc. Looks like you run just linear timing against kPA regardless of RPM. I mean that 5000 RPM @ PSI is 23.1 deg Adv but so is 7500 RPM. Is this an ignition map you run on the street/drag week or just track?
It's a dyno map, and nothing more for multiple reasons. Consistency, ease of making a base fuel map, seating the rings at different boost levels, and issues will be far more obvious when doing things the same way every time. That style timing map is the best way I know of doing it as well. Bore dia. versus boost, to a good spread of cells to set up the base fuel map easily. Ignition maps at the track are based on time and traction control for the most part, there are a few ways to do it based on the cars setup. On the street it is for cruising, temp, efficiency, and limiting power output so it is safe to drive. Those maps wont look anything like the dyno map, or yours for that matter. One is limiting power and running on 91 octane gasoline. The other is to get from a to b as quickly as possible without overpowering the available traction. Both are a bit different than tuning for performance on the street. You detune these engines on the street, massively. And the track/air quality/elevation/etc determines the tune at the track. Then you run timing based on what you know will survive...
You running methanol in those BMW's? Also have to consider the engine hard parts and configuration. I have a feeling your engines won't tolerate bringing in the timing sooner for very long. He talked at length about the timing. Short answer it is not for the street, nor the track.
@@ShainAndrews Yes but that doesn't change much. Still ramp fuel up after torque peak. I didn't say I bring timing in sooner - we just do not typically modify timing only by RPM. I can throw a significant amount of timing at a 30+ psi E85/methanol car after 5300 rpm and it picks up big time power.
@@shvrdavid That's what I'd like to know. I mean I can set a timing map relative static with pulling per psi but was curious what Steve does for like drag week cars.
@@JKGarageBMW Steve is known for mild tuning. His SMX engines don't need to be run near the edge and can still crank out serious hp leaving power on the table. And unless you are timing one of his engines, his timing setup is useless on another setup unless it is very similar engine. The way he does it, is not useless, and comes from experience. I know where you are coming from on wanting to know how he does it, but at the same time know how he got to where he is tuning them to live at 4000 hp. Reading the plugs, egt's, etc, is how you get a good, safe and reliable setup. Think of it as tuning for the street, then backing the timing off to lower cylinder pressure and heat. I know, that sounds counter productive, but it is not.. The small percentage of HP you might loose to make it live is a moot point... Customers come to you to get more power in a tune. Steve's base tunes are so it will survive 4000 hp for a certain number of runs before needing gone thru... How many cars do you tune that need to be gone thru every 1000 miles?
if you say go watch a different video please link it in the description.
Thanks Steve,
As I go find/watch piston delete video after starting the 3000hp video after starting the 4000hp video
Steve can you do a video on the history of Steve morris engine, how you got your start any schooling you did
Is there a specific brand laptop that you have had the best luck with for tunning?
Looks like Windows 11. Brand of laptop probably doesn't matter as long as it is one of the major brands.
Love the videos
Steve can I make a suggestion, just a small one for your videos in the shop can you get a wireless lapel mic because your fading in and out and your plosives in your speech are causing audio issues on me end, I know you do this for educational purposes so let me give back a little. It'll help having your audio consistent instead of fading in and out and making my speakers fart and clip.
Do you build these with hydraulic lifters for street driving?
the "old" rule of thumb for the boost to back pressure ratio was no more then 40% Does this still apply to a "modern" engine, like this one?
You mean drive pressure? The pressure on the hot side of the turbo?
Wow did you Google that just now
@@ShainAndrews yes, did not know that is the "modern term"
Just a joke, but would love to see the HP numbers on it with the Cleeter eater NITROUS SPRAYER through the turbos for Denver 5,000 ft elevation power adder system, a horrible idea that actually worked, getting him the number one spot with Mullet for that drag and drive event.
Only a guy with more dollars than sense would do that with a Steve Morris already twin turbo boosted engine. But, it did almost work to perfection, wound those babies right up to get them up to speed fast. Massive altitude, matched by a nearly instant wind up. Got him right up on the chip. Ziiiiiiiing.
What brand turbos are your preference Mr Morris?!?!
If there was no parasitic draw from the exhaust side of the turbo, it would double every 14.7 psi. Unfortunately, the back pressure of the turbo goes up as boost goes up. That's where the turbo compressor map comes into play... With some math and pressure sensors, you could figure it out. Or just throw it on a Dyno!
Hey Steve you built my dads motor
In your opening run down you mentioned trying to run a 4 magnet crank wheel but it didn't work to your satisfaction. I have a twin turbo 555 bbc with a FT600, coil near plug, 4 magnet crank wheel. At 6300 rpm acts like it hits limiter. 15 psi boost limiter is 7000. Could this be a 4 magnet symptom? Plugs gapped at .016, msd coils 5ms dwell. A/F 10.8 on E 85.. Probably the wrong place to ask.. But thought I'd try anyway. thanks
i would ask Fueltech, normally you cant get them to start. Use the cam sync to start only too.
Yes it does .
can you give an indication of how many litres or gallongs of methonol you go through in an engine dyno session?
So the gate moved. Is that a boost leak???
Steve; you said your putting 110mm turbos on wagon when it’s back together. What size turbos are on wagon right now???
98
So, why would someone want a 900+cubic inch engine on nitrous for drag racing? Does an engine with that many cubic inches just cause problems?
As far as I know, the big inch will have instant torque where as the turbo engine will have to spool up.
Have you been around racing long or do you not know the bigger it is the more power you make that is how it was for years to go faster more cubic inch now we have turbos and a 900 cubic inch motor won't last long on boost so you question is really dumb why would someone want a 900 cubic inch engine maybe power ...... stupid