I just "Blasted" my brand new 2024 4Runner with Blaster Surface Shield yesterday. I've used Fluid Film on various things for years and it's great. The surface shield is also lanolin based and seems to last longer because doesn't wash off as easy. I bought a 5 gallon pail and the woolwax brand spray gun set. I bought a few rattle cans of Fluid Film with the little 360 degree spray tube to get in the door weep holes and areas like that. Beyond my 4Runner, the 5 gallon was enough to do my Jeep Wrangler TJ, our Honda Odyssey, as well as my brothers Infiniti Q40. Still have about a gallon left for touch ups in later years. The Surface Shield doesn't smell very much compared to the Fluid Film. A few tips: Take off all those rubber plugs you find under the body and send an extension wand down them as far as they'll go. Spray in there good cause you should only have to do it once. Then replace the plugs. Use a 360 degree tipped spray wand to shoot product on the top of the frame rails and things like that. Just spraying from the bottom won't hit those areas directly. After doing 4 vehicles I found the 36" wand with the 360 degree top was the thing to use first in every frame hole, body plug, tight space, and frame rail top before every using the standard spray nozzle to wide spray all the rest. You'll get misted with the standard nozzle so save that for last and keep it at arms length to keep it away from you. There's really no need to buy any extension length other than the 36". You can choke up on it for closer areas and use the full length to send down the inside of frames. I had a few shorter ones, but never bothered with them. It was one go through with the 36" and a final over spray with the standard spray nozzle. Take the wheels off and wrap kitchen trash bags over the brakes so you don't have to be so careful around them. Makes it much faster and no chance of lubing up your rotors.
@@counterbalancelife4305I usually check every time I do an oil change. I bought another spray gun from Amazon, think it was $44, bigger mouth for going straight from a gallon container. TCP air rust proofing and undercoating gun!
yes indeed. I was doing speaker swaps in all the doors so carefully minimally slit the plastic sheet and shot the bottoms from above inside the doors. then used good tape and repaired the slits.
May I add that the top of the gas tank is an important place to spray. These trucks can run for many years and a rotted gas tank and fuel lines on top of the tank can cause some major headaches with a truck that is otherwise just fine.🙂
@@JohnnyReno71 You apply it every year, 1x a year. Surface shield you apply, according to their statements on website and on cans/gallons, U apply it every 2 years.
I had waxyol treatment done by the dealer when we purchased our 2023 4runner-they did an awesom job and waxyol is recommended by every auto maker which is a plus.
The best product is called CRC Marine Heavy Duty Corrosion Inhibitor. Used by the Canadian military to rustproof their vehicles. It goes on like a runny liquid to soak in areas but dries into a hard waxy film that is very hard to remove. Cheers.
I have a 2021 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited, I started using Fluid Film the first year after buying the Jeep. I live in NY and they salt the roads during the winter, I don't have any surface rust under the vehicle. Product works great.
I’ve been undercoating my 2017 tundra since I bought it with fluid film, I also live in upstate New York where they love the road salt lol, stuff work’s amazing!!! I definitely recommend buying a set of ramps as it makes it much easier to get around underneath when using a creeper… also dude 3 cans??? I use ten under my truck, there’s no way you got everything with using only 3
Here in Canada, Krown rust protection is quite popular and I can vouch for its effectiveness. I have a 2020 Tacoma and a 2004 4Runner, both with rust free frames. 20 years without rust on a 4Runner that did not go through the frame recall is quite the miracle
Im buying a brand new 4Runner and im glad i found this video. I live in Nevada where we have heavy snow and salt is definitely used. So this video came at a perfect time im glad i found it. Good stuff thanks
Coming from a snowbelt, I can tell you the best time to rustproof is in the spring when the salted roads are no longer and the temps heat up. And an oil based spray that drips and get EVERYWHERE is the best(krown or rust check). Any dripless formula is only useful for where it hits, but it doesn't hit everywhere.
Project Farm has an great comparison, but from a couple of years ago, so doesn't include some of the highly rated products in the comments here. Maybe we can get him to re-test with those.
I used FluidFilm inside the rockers and door bottoms because a very thin extension 360 degree wand is available for the cans and it wont wash off in there...but i used Blaster Surface Shield on the frame and crossmember and all underneath..it is a product similar but doesnt wash off as easily with road spray, so longer lasting, and does not smell as much for sure. I think it was a great combo ! Edit: I second the tarp recommendation !!
I'm going to be doing this myself for the first time, is there certain parts or ares that you would avoid? Do you recommend taking off the black skid plate and hitting that whole area as well, and the plate? Thank you!
. @ChezTJ Yes do all crossmembers and frame above the skid plates, get into the inside of the frame thru the plastic removable plugs and any holes you can, and remover the spare.. to access above/around. i did my spare rim too. avoid obviously the brakes area , and exhaust
@@g.fortin3228 Great! Also, I just took a look at a few other videos, they mentioned the fenders are problem areas as well. I went to take a look at the area in and around the tires, I noticed that the back "well", by the shocks (both rear and front) have the what I believe to be the frame as well as some metal/steel parts that create the shape of the tire well. Should I spray behind my tires (avoiding brakes/rotors) and hit that whole fender area? Do I want to avoid hitting the springs and shocks and UCA's? Thank you again!
I'd recommend Fluid Film Black over the clear stuff. The reason is that I've noticed that if there is a spot where surface rust is present, the color of the rust is pretty noticeable making touch up spots in need of attention much more apparent. I swear by this stuff, as my daily driver is a 2009 Honda Fit Sport, and it has some areas where there is rust, and I'm of the opinion that it's stopped the spread by my spraying those areas. I only wish I would have known about doing it from the day I bought that car. The last thing I'll add is this: I'm going to put the Black Film on my 4Runner two years in a row to make sure I'm thorough on the frame. With the rust history these things have, a couple hours a year and $50-$75 for a few cans to prevent the rust is well worth it in my opinion.
I’m the weirdo who goes through the car wash when it’s cold and snowing often. My 2021 has been rust free, last month I painted frame, axles, all of it with rattle can. Always did the same on my 1997 F-350, she still looks great.
I love woolwax. It’s full lanolin and has no solvents at all. It’s the best of the best! You just have to heat it up a little before spraying on. It’s thick as hell.
Thanks for another great video! Is there certain areas or parts to avoid? How about taking off the OEM black skid plate and hitting everything under there? How about the skid plate itself? I'm afraid of overdoing it and then something mechanical being compromised later. Thank you!
You can basically spray it anywhere water would hit. All the electrical and mechanical parts will have their own seals. Avoid your brakes and exhaust though for obvious reasons
Nice job! It's a crime though that these manufacturer's don't take care of this at the factory especially with today's prices. Instead, they give us gimmicky things on the vehicles. I'd rather have my frame protected.
Most people don't even think about the frame; it is the last thing on their mind when buying a vehicle. Like you said they are thrown lots of gimmicks and that is what the look for.
Best protection is "don't live in the north/winter regions that use salt on the roads". Or also you will be surprised there will be no rust when you will live in a north region with snow but no salt on the roads, can't image where, but I know some countries don't use it. Salt is actually bad for the soil around the roads and not only.
Great REALISTIC answer! Why don't you move to Guam so you stop polluting the non snow state you live with your breath. Realistic enough for you bear breath?
I just put the Fluid Film Black on my 2012 in the fall. The thing I'm noting is that if there's a spot where surface rust is present, the color of the rust is pretty noticeable making touch up spots much more apparent.
One thing about oil is that its fluid, meaning it won't crack like paint does. Also you can literally POUR this thing into holes and unreachable areas of frame.
Yes CRC actually works the best. I watched a you tube video where a person tested like 5 or six of these rust products over a year. He sprayed a piece of metal with each product and left them outside in the northeast weather for a year and CRC was the best.
Krown is known to be one of the worst though ? Videos testing it on channels like “repair geek” and “the zoom guys” and others channels show it performs badly compared to other products.
next time you wash the frame wash and get a wire wheel and hit all the frame spots with it to bare metal then rinse and wipe all the residue to dry, then acid etch the bare metal, maybe rinse it off after dry again then apply a 1K or 2K acid etch metal primer whatever you want and then small layers 2 or 3 tops then let dry and then top coat metal primer or whatever to actually protect the frame external then when all dry across entire frame ( take wheels off for better access) apply fluid film onto the entire frame and internals for Much longer longevity and value added to vehicle for rust proofing
Better, when the truck is new, use a red scotch brite on all of the black painted surfaces (especially welds) then apply two coats of KBS Rust Seal paint. Use Cavity wax in all cavities. Your truck will never rust even if you never apply Fluid Film and live in the rust belt.
Being that this is an oil based product I am thinking it will just attract the dirt and when you go to power wash it probably most of the product will be taken off. Personal myself I prefer rockguard over this product or an undercoating product. The rockguard will not crack like a tar based undercoatings or go gooey from oil drips. I have even used it on the back side of my chrome bumpers to prevent them from rusting inside out. Before applying the rockguard you have to attend to the existing rust. This means spending some time grinding off the rust to bare metal, degreasing and painting it with a urethane or epoxy paint. Using any of the store bought spray cans is a waist of time as they will never stand up to beating your frame takes from rocks or salt. To date I have had no rust on my frame since I sprayed it 22 years ago with the rockguard. As to painting or coating the inside of your frame you are not going to get the protection if it is not cleaned first. This means firstly it needs to be vacuumed out. You would not believe how much sand and dirt works in through the side holes especially if you do alot of gravel road driving. After that if you can get access to the inner parts of the frame it would be recommended to use a cable with attached chains to rotary beat off the flakes of rust. Repeat cleaning it out with the vacuum and when you have that done then your ready to paint it. Again I would prefer a paint designed for spraying inside the frame. I think the oil based product is just going to collect the dirt and sand.
@@T4Rgarage hey there, sorry to bother you but I m going to do it this weekend and I would like ask you if is ok to spray the entire exhaust pipe ? Thank you
This looks likes a good product, but what happens I you must drive in a very silt type duxt that also turns into a gloppy mud when wet? Does the dust adhere to it? If you have to wash the mud off are you going to have to respray? Or is this product primarily for city streets?
I personally wouldn’t do any washing until the end of winter. Dust/dirt adhering to it can be a good things as it will protect it and won’t allow it to wash off as easily.
Unless you’re planning to sandblast, clean, primer and recoat, I wouldn’t bother. This product will actually absorb into the rust and should help prevent any further rust from occurring
Yes I have used a rust converter. There's several brands. POR 15 is highly rated but sticks to everything permanently. Rust-Oleum has a really good one. They convert rust (iron oxide) to iron phosphate which can be coated easily with what he used.
I wonder if anyone can answer my question. If I have rust existing in my frame, should I get rid of the rust first (maybe with rust conversion) or just use spray film straight away?
It doesn't HAVE to be down to bare metal, but use a stripping tool off a drill to eliminate any LOOSE rust. Fluid film will weep into rust & hard to reach parts.
Wow I’m surprised how rusty you’re 4runner than my .2011 4runner limited. I just started spraying the underneath of my 4runner this winter with wd40 but planning to used the surface shield next time
I,v used fluid film it works good and i,v also used nhou it,s tinted black so your undercarriage looks new it also works good. I found mastercoat which i read they use on bridges and is suppose to be really good. thanx
Agreed. I’ve never owned a vehicle where I need to worry about this. I live in the northeast and it is necessary to spray the frame every 12 months? This is lunacy.
I just "Blasted" my brand new 2024 4Runner with Blaster Surface Shield yesterday. I've used Fluid Film on various things for years and it's great. The surface shield is also lanolin based and seems to last longer because doesn't wash off as easy. I bought a 5 gallon pail and the woolwax brand spray gun set. I bought a few rattle cans of Fluid Film with the little 360 degree spray tube to get in the door weep holes and areas like that. Beyond my 4Runner, the 5 gallon was enough to do my Jeep Wrangler TJ, our Honda Odyssey, as well as my brothers Infiniti Q40. Still have about a gallon left for touch ups in later years. The Surface Shield doesn't smell very much compared to the Fluid Film. A few tips: Take off all those rubber plugs you find under the body and send an extension wand down them as far as they'll go. Spray in there good cause you should only have to do it once. Then replace the plugs. Use a 360 degree tipped spray wand to shoot product on the top of the frame rails and things like that. Just spraying from the bottom won't hit those areas directly. After doing 4 vehicles I found the 36" wand with the 360 degree top was the thing to use first in every frame hole, body plug, tight space, and frame rail top before every using the standard spray nozzle to wide spray all the rest. You'll get misted with the standard nozzle so save that for last and keep it at arms length to keep it away from you. There's really no need to buy any extension length other than the 36". You can choke up on it for closer areas and use the full length to send down the inside of frames. I had a few shorter ones, but never bothered with them. It was one go through with the 36" and a final over spray with the standard spray nozzle. Take the wheels off and wrap kitchen trash bags over the brakes so you don't have to be so careful around them. Makes it much faster and no chance of lubing up your rotors.
Drive through rain and it is all gone, what do you do, apply it every time it rains ?
@@lx4118 Yes. Every time, but it only takes a few hours so you get used to it... Actually, it doesn't wash off like that. Touch it up every 2 years.
@@counterbalancelife4305I usually check every time I do an oil change. I bought another spray gun from Amazon, think it was $44, bigger mouth for going straight from a gallon container.
TCP air rust proofing and undercoating gun!
Surface Shield doesn't wash off genius @@lx4118
@@counterbalancelife4305 that's a confusing response. does it wash or not when it rains?
I spray inside drain holes on bottom of doors too. Salt and snow drips down and sits in door seams. Great product.
yes indeed. I was doing speaker swaps in all the doors so carefully minimally slit the plastic sheet and shot the bottoms from above inside the doors. then used good tape and repaired the slits.
May I add that the top of the gas tank is an important place to spray. These trucks can run for many years and a rotted gas tank and fuel lines on top of the tank can cause some major headaches with a truck that is otherwise just fine.🙂
How often should you use this?
@@JohnnyReno71 You apply it every year, 1x a year. Surface shield you apply, according to their statements on website and on cans/gallons, U apply it every 2 years.
At home depot and other hardware stores you can get disposable plastic drop cloths. They're quite large and you can get a 3 pack for under $10-$15
I had waxyol treatment done by the dealer when we purchased our 2023 4runner-they did an awesom job and waxyol is recommended by every auto maker which is a plus.
The best product is called CRC Marine Heavy Duty Corrosion Inhibitor. Used by the Canadian military to rustproof their vehicles. It goes on like a runny liquid to soak in areas but dries into a hard waxy film that is very hard to remove. Cheers.
I have a 2021 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited, I started using Fluid Film the first year after buying the Jeep. I live in NY and they salt the roads during the winter, I don't have any surface rust under the vehicle. Product works great.
I’ve been undercoating my 2017 tundra since I bought it with fluid film, I also live in upstate New York where they love the road salt lol, stuff work’s amazing!!! I definitely recommend buying a set of ramps as it makes it much easier to get around underneath when using a creeper… also dude 3 cans??? I use ten under my truck, there’s no way you got everything with using only 3
I thought the same thing.
Here in Canada, Krown rust protection is quite popular and I can vouch for its effectiveness. I have a 2020 Tacoma and a 2004 4Runner, both with rust free frames. 20 years without rust on a 4Runner that did not go through the frame recall is quite the miracle
I use Corrosion Free on the under body. dosent drip and very effective.
You can order right from the company
I use Krown on the upper body
Fluid Film is ok, but B’Laster Surface Shield is the new kid on the block with bragging rights. Good stuff.
Not for sale in europe
Im buying a brand new 4Runner and im glad i found this video. I live in Nevada where we have heavy snow and salt is definitely used. So this video came at a perfect time im glad i found it. Good stuff thanks
Coming from a snowbelt, I can tell you the best time to rustproof is in the spring when the salted roads are no longer and the temps heat up. And an oil based spray that drips and get EVERYWHERE is the best(krown or rust check). Any dripless formula is only useful for where it hits, but it doesn't hit everywhere.
Project Farm has an great comparison, but from a couple of years ago, so doesn't include some of the highly rated products in the comments here. Maybe we can get him to re-test with those.
I used FluidFilm inside the rockers and door bottoms because a very thin extension 360 degree wand is available for the cans and it wont wash off in there...but i used Blaster Surface Shield on the frame and crossmember and all underneath..it is a product similar but doesnt wash off as easily with road spray, so longer lasting, and does not smell as much for sure. I think it was a great combo ! Edit: I second the tarp recommendation !!
Sounds like the perfect combo, I’ll have to check it out. Cheers!
I'm going to be doing this myself for the first time, is there certain parts or ares that you would avoid? Do you recommend taking off the black skid plate and hitting that whole area as well, and the plate? Thank you!
. @ChezTJ Yes do all crossmembers and frame above the skid plates, get into the inside of the frame thru the plastic removable plugs and any holes you can, and remover the spare.. to access above/around. i did my spare rim too. avoid obviously the brakes area , and exhaust
@@g.fortin3228 Great! Also, I just took a look at a few other videos, they mentioned the fenders are problem areas as well. I went to take a look at the area in and around the tires, I noticed that the back "well", by the shocks (both rear and front) have the what I believe to be the frame as well as some metal/steel parts that create the shape of the tire well. Should I spray behind my tires (avoiding brakes/rotors) and hit that whole fender area? Do I want to avoid hitting the springs and shocks and UCA's? Thank you again!
I'd recommend Fluid Film Black over the clear stuff. The reason is that I've noticed that if there is a spot where surface rust is present, the color of the rust is pretty noticeable making touch up spots in need of attention much more apparent. I swear by this stuff, as my daily driver is a 2009 Honda Fit Sport, and it has some areas where there is rust, and I'm of the opinion that it's stopped the spread by my spraying those areas. I only wish I would have known about doing it from the day I bought that car. The last thing I'll add is this: I'm going to put the Black Film on my 4Runner two years in a row to make sure I'm thorough on the frame. With the rust history these things have, a couple hours a year and $50-$75 for a few cans to prevent the rust is well worth it in my opinion.
I used PB Blaster Surface Shield….took six cans. Still hanging tough after two years, just a bit of touch up before the snow and salt flies.
Awesome! I’ll check them out next, only heard good things about PB Blaster
Thanks for your great video. Love the looks of your Toyota 4Runner TRD Pro. Appreciate what you do. 🇨🇦
I love living in the desert. I have a 88 4Runner that I’ve owned since 1992 and it has zero rust.
I’m the weirdo who goes through the car wash when it’s cold and snowing often. My 2021 has been rust free, last month I painted frame, axles, all of it with rattle can. Always did the same on my 1997 F-350, she still looks great.
Excellent, was looking for something for my 4Runner, lots of rust, 8 years now. Thanks.
I love woolwax. It’s full lanolin and has no solvents at all. It’s the best of the best! You just have to heat it up a little before spraying on. It’s thick as hell.
Thanks for posting! That 360 nozzle looks great. Can you use this inside the rear hatch panel that we all know is notorious for rust?
So, this was a while ago. How will did it hold up? How often do you have to do this? It's there a better way now?
Thanks for another great video! Is there certain areas or parts to avoid? How about taking off the OEM black skid plate and hitting everything under there? How about the skid plate itself? I'm afraid of overdoing it and then something mechanical being compromised later. Thank you!
You can basically spray it anywhere water would hit. All the electrical and mechanical parts will have their own seals. Avoid your brakes and exhaust though for obvious reasons
Nice job! It's a crime though that these manufacturer's don't take care of this at the factory especially with today's prices. Instead, they give us gimmicky things on the vehicles. I'd rather have my frame protected.
Most people don't even think about the frame; it is the last thing on their mind when buying a vehicle. Like you said they are thrown lots of gimmicks and that is what the look for.
Best protection is "don't live in the north/winter regions that use salt on the roads". Or also you will be surprised there will be no rust when you will live in a north region with snow but no salt on the roads, can't image where, but I know some countries don't use it. Salt is actually bad for the soil around the roads and not only.
Some of the stuff is horrible for sure. Killed our hedges and ate chunks out of our concrete
Great REALISTIC answer! Why don't you move to Guam so you stop polluting the non snow state you live with your breath. Realistic enough for you bear breath?
Я купил свой 4Runner в таком регионе и в свои 20 лет он был просто в идеале!
I wish the wand didn’t leak so badly. Always a mess but worth it.
I need to do this to my 21 Pro in the spring, great informative video. Call me crazy but I actually kind of like the smell of Fluid Film LOL
Great product, I use the black stuff , I find it holds up better
Cheers
I just put the Fluid Film Black on my 2012 in the fall. The thing I'm noting is that if there's a spot where surface rust is present, the color of the rust is pretty noticeable making touch up spots much more apparent.
Solid video. I’ll try this out on my T4R
I have a question.. what about Marine coating to the frame?
Marine type stuff often is made to handle protecting from salt water 24/7.
One thing about oil is that its fluid, meaning it won't crack like paint does. Also you can literally POUR this thing into holes and unreachable areas of frame.
CRC tends to stay on and last longer. Fluid film may creep better inside the frame
Yes CRC actually works the best. I watched a you tube video where a person tested like 5 or six of these rust products over a year. He sprayed a piece of metal with each product and left them outside in the northeast weather for a year and CRC was the best.
Before I picked up my 2022 Limited I had dealer spray waxoyl inside and outside the frame, and inside doors.
Smart call, wish I had
We use Krown Rust Protection in Calgary and it's amazing! Oil-based products for the win for sure
Noxudol is supposed to be the best in terms of resisting rust and not washing away. It's what Toyota specifies when doing a truck frame replacement.
Krown rustproofing is by far the best and Fluid Film is second best in my opinion.
Krown is known to be one of the worst though ? Videos testing it on channels like “repair geek” and “the zoom guys” and others channels show it performs badly compared to other products.
How does this hold up to running through the car wash?
fj cruiser guys that came to 4runners have known this for years
its basically sprayable cosmoline
Yo the thumbnail looks badass
Thank you! Took it a couple nights ago during a snow storm
Nice video, thanks for this. Did you apply any to the exhaust pipe etc?
Thanks. Avoid the exhaust and brakes
next time you wash the frame wash and get a wire wheel and hit all the frame spots with it to bare metal then rinse and wipe all the residue to dry, then acid etch the bare metal, maybe rinse it off after dry again then apply a 1K or 2K acid etch metal primer whatever you want and then small layers 2 or 3 tops then let dry and then top coat metal primer or whatever to actually protect the frame external then when all dry across entire frame ( take wheels off for better access) apply fluid film onto the entire frame and internals for Much longer longevity and value added to vehicle for rust proofing
Better, when the truck is new, use a red scotch brite on all of the black painted surfaces (especially welds) then apply two coats of KBS Rust Seal paint. Use Cavity wax in all cavities. Your truck will never rust even if you never apply Fluid Film and live in the rust belt.
It’s good stuff
But I did LineX my brand new 4Runner before the first winter
Being that this is an oil based product I am thinking it will just attract the dirt and when you go to power wash it probably most of the product will be taken off. Personal myself I prefer rockguard over this product or an undercoating product. The rockguard will not crack like a tar based undercoatings or go gooey from oil drips. I have even used it on the back side of my chrome bumpers to prevent them from rusting inside out. Before applying the rockguard you have to attend to the existing rust. This means spending some time grinding off the rust to bare metal, degreasing and painting it with a urethane or epoxy paint. Using any of the store bought spray cans is a waist of time as they will never stand up to beating your frame takes from rocks or salt. To date I have had no rust on my frame since I sprayed it 22 years ago with the rockguard.
As to painting or coating the inside of your frame you are not going to get the protection if it is not cleaned first. This means firstly it needs to be vacuumed out. You would not believe how much sand and dirt works in through the side holes especially if you do alot of gravel road driving. After that if you can get access to the inner parts of the frame it would be recommended to use a cable with attached chains to rotary beat off the flakes of rust. Repeat cleaning it out with the vacuum and when you have that done then your ready to paint it. Again I would prefer a paint designed for spraying inside the frame. I think the oil based product is just going to collect the dirt and sand.
Very good video thank you. Can the extension wand be cleaned to use it later?
Yes it can. The product doesn’t harden
@@T4Rgarage excellent thank you
@@T4Rgarage hey there, sorry to bother you but I m going to do it this weekend and I would like ask you if is ok to spray the entire exhaust pipe ? Thank you
@@GG-un5wk I would avoid spraying the exhaust pipe but if you do it won’t harm anything, it will just smell bad when it burns off
I love fluid film but its expensive for bulk spraying. I use vaseline spray on the large areas. fluid film in seams and inside areas
Will this product no simply be washed away by salty snow and spray from the road? They should only use aluminum under cars to avoid rust.
How often do you have to spray? Every two years? 3 years etc
@@idesignspaces 1-2 Years
This looks likes a good product, but what happens I you must drive in a very silt type duxt that also turns into a gloppy mud when wet? Does the dust adhere to it? If you have to wash the mud off are you going to have to respray? Or is this product primarily for city streets?
I personally wouldn’t do any washing until the end of winter. Dust/dirt adhering to it can be a good things as it will protect it and won’t allow it to wash off as easily.
@@T4Rgarage thanks for your response
The best solution is simple rust reforming rustoleum. Cheap, effective, and no mess. All of these other products are messy and ineffective over time.
I have used fluid film and still do at times on internal cavities. Woolwax is what I use mostly now since it's much harder to wash off.
Where did you pick up Woolwax? Amazon?
Does this have to be applied at a certain temperature? Also, how long after the application before you can drive?
You could apply this at almost any temperature above freezing and drive 20min later
@@T4Rgarage awesome, thank you, I will check this out!!
Where did you get that TRD off road banner on your wall?
Informative video!
Would there be any benefit to removing the surface rust that's accesible first?
Unless you’re planning to sandblast, clean, primer and recoat, I wouldn’t bother. This product will actually absorb into the rust and should help prevent any further rust from occurring
Yes I have used a rust converter. There's several brands. POR 15 is highly rated but sticks to everything permanently. Rust-Oleum has a really good one. They convert rust (iron oxide) to iron phosphate which can be coated easily with what he used.
@@T4Rgarage you should try a rust converter. It's a worthwhile step in preservation of the vehicle.
So have you been doing this from the beginning or this was the first time?
First time on this 4Runner
if my car wash includes an undercarriage spray. Will that wash off the fluid film?
I have this question as well
If it remains oily and doesn't dry, it seems like it would eventually create solid layer of gunk. Is it hard to keep clean after application?
The gunk is a drawback but it adds extra protection and you don’t really see it
Did you use fluid film from the time it was new?
No, I bought it preowned
Do I need to brush off the rust first (not power washing it but with metal brush) before applying? I have an 07 FJ Cruiser with rusts.
No it’s not necessary, this will absorb into the rust and stop it just as long as you apply it regularly and especially before winter
@@T4Rgarage thank you
Please add a 6 month, 1 year vide follow up
Besides exhaust, what are parts to avoid spraying? Going from -26 to +1 this coming week so I plan to spray under mine.
I avoided my engine, brakes (rotor area), and universal joints/spider joints (they get their own grease). Basically sprayed everywhere else though.
SEM Cavity wax 👍👍
I did rubberized sealing on my new Tacoma. Rather not do fluid film as you have to do it every year
So should you be spraying that the moment you buy a 4Runner?
I wish I had. I drove up to the ski hill a lot over the last 3 years and it has definitely taken a toll on my undercarriage
@@T4Rgarage hmmm good to know. Thanks
Exactly what I did and it had 11 miles on it. I used WoolWax which is more of an improved version of Fluid Film.
What undercoating would be good none rubberized
Try Kleen Flo Honey Goo
take it to next level
Wait you dont clean the rust first?
Is that flammable?
In aerosol form yes, but once it’s applied it’s fine. Similar to say wd40
I wonder if anyone can answer my question. If I have rust existing in my frame, should I get rid of the rust first (maybe with rust conversion) or just use spray film straight away?
Ideally yes. You want to expose the raw metal to coat it. There is no point in coating the rusted surface.
It doesn't HAVE to be down to bare metal, but use a stripping tool off a drill to eliminate any LOOSE rust. Fluid film will weep into rust & hard to reach parts.
Get the loose rust off and use KBS rust converter and KBS Rust Seal paint. Once you use it, no other explanation will be needed.
Much appreciate the input. I ended up stripping the really bad ones and some rust converter. It seems to hold up so far.
are in rustbelt?
I do a lot of mountain driving to go skiing so I see a lot of salt
Is a can enough to spray the underside of the car and maybe some engine bay elements ?
What about silicone lubricant
Not sure, never heard of anyone using that with success
I get my car rust protected at Krown rustproofing once a year.
He feels it's better protected I guess we'll see
PB Blaster
If you drive to heavy rain driving fast all they fluid film is gone
RP-342 is an insanely superior product.
Military grade! I love that stuff. First I recommend using a rust converter then the RP-342!
The clothes that you really care about look beautiful and the floor in your garage you can eat off it😅
How long does stuff last thank you very much
Applies sheep smelling Fluid Film to underframe. Goes camping. Wonders why the bears won't leave the 4Runner alone...
😂😂😂
😅 surface shield is way better!
Corroseal
Fluid film is Lanolin based, not oil or petroleum based. Contains no solvents.
Wow I’m surprised how rusty you’re 4runner than my .2011 4runner limited. I just started spraying the underneath of my 4runner this winter with wd40 but planning to used the surface shield next time
Respectfully, this is not the best product, even though it is toted as so.
CRC marine corrosion inhibitor is far superior.
Fluid Film is made from Lanolin? sheep fat?
Sheeps wool grease lol
@@T4Rgarage LOL, ok thanks!
Sheep sweat
DO NOT spray your exhaust. The smell will follow you for months afterwards if you do. It's not a terrible smell but I wouldn't recommend it
Nhou undercoating
Why do Toyotas rust so badly. Both I owned had more rust than any other car I have owned.
Because they last long enough to rust
I’ll give ya $5 if you do mine.
Can't stand the way fluidfilm smells.
I,v used fluid film it works good and i,v also used nhou it,s tinted black so your undercarriage looks new it also works good. I found mastercoat which i read they use on bridges and is suppose to be really good. thanx
If the 4Runner is so great…..why is rusting a problem?
Agreed. I’ve never owned a vehicle where I need to worry about this. I live in the northeast and it is necessary to spray the frame every 12 months? This is lunacy.