I run tubeless with Stan's sealant and bring along a small tube of superglue and self-adhesive patches. Sealant solves 95% of any punctures., although I never notice until I get home and find a little sealant on my frame. If the hole is larger than the sealant can handle (only happened once in 9,000 miles) I'll apply superglue to the hole from outside and use one of the patches (yes outside). Glue sets, rotate wheel to get sealant on hole, then inflate. After a few miles the patch wears away leaving glue/patch material in hole or small cut. I don't carry tubes.
@@benNo1989 yes it works great. not high tech so almost any combination will work. I had Park Tool glue-less Super Patches so I used those. Anything relatively thick and rubber would work, I guess even electrical tape as mentioned above. Also I imagine that self-amalgamating rubber tape would be great. NOT silicone tape, nothing sticks to that except itself! I like Locktite super gel glue the squeeze dispenser never clogs up and the gel is easier to work with on a tire hole. good luck!
This might be THE BEST video on not only tubeless set up, but putting on a tire, period. Ive been battling levers and breaking them on stiff tires for years…. I knew about putti the lip on the center dip of the rim, but the squeezing the tire down as you move your hands??!! BRILLIANT. None of my ridding buddies knew of this, we al always fought these damn tires and ruined tubes etc. I just went out to my garage to do it your way and BAM! Didn’t even need a lever…. Years of pain just faded away. thank you! There are SO MANY small little tips here that no other instructional video mentions…down to the syringe pull back to avoid spill everywhere, which if you’re ever done this, this sealant ends up on everything! This video needs to be the first and only one that pops up for anyone learning to out tire son and seating up tubeless, is that perfect.
I gave up on it and have gone back to tubes: I had front and rear punctures second ride which did not seal and ended up having to walk home. Totally agree with the mess, sealant sprayed all over the frame every time I had a puncture, which, by the way, occurred more often than with tubes. Further downside is that, because of higher pressures involved with a road system, a puncture, if sealed, loses much more air than with an MTB set up - rolling resistance and further puncture likelihood both go up.. Almost impossible to remove and refit a tyre by the roadside without more tools than I normally carry i.e. adding weight to your emergency toolkit. You still need to carry a spare tube and a tyre boot. You might have to carry both a pump and a gas canister with spare cartridges to get a tyre to seal if it comes off the bead. One very expensive tyre had to be thrown away after only 60 miles; the reduced pressure after a puncture allowed the wheel rim to wear through the sidewall which I discovered when I got home. Final straw was not getting a tyre to seat in my own workshop trying first with a track pump, then with a gas cartridge and also with my air compressor. I tried three different wheelsets, an Ultegra, HED, and Pacenti, all tubeless or tubeless ready and a couple of different tyres. Admittedly some combinations were easier to fit than others. They all lost pressure between rides to some degree. I had a better experience with tubs despite having to learn how to glue them, replace them by the roadside and then sew them back together after a puncture repair I've still got the wheels, the tyres have all been consigned to the bin because I just can't be bothered with the expense, the mess, the risk of being stuck and (see bicyclerollingresistance) no significant performance improvement. Bah.
On a recent sportive, I went through a very rough patch of road and had to replace an inner tube, no problem; I also had five sidewall rips that needed tyre boots (I always carry a couple). I limped home but at least I got back. this would not have been possible with road tubeless. I dread to think how much damage I would have done to the tyre without a tube or the absolute nightmare that would have been trying to fix it at the roadside. Emperors new clothes.
sounds like a sealant related issue, which brand did you use? did you shake it up well before putting it in the tire? the particles might have coagulated in the container before you used it. this video shows a comparison between a bunch of sealants in case anyone wondered ruclips.net/video/a3tb8L5o1OU/видео.html
Same with me. Mountain bikes seem to be ideal. Road bikes are still iffy. Too high a pressure. Not everyone has the time to find the right combo of tire, wheel, and sealant. There should be no thought to what brands work together.. they should all work 100prct (like tubes do lol). Until then… RideNow TPUs and clinchers. Just as light
Running road tubeless myself. One year, zero punctures that the sealant hasn't sealed instantly. I run all the way down to 50psi for super bumpy roads on 25mm tires, 65kg rider weight. Never going back to tubes. Tubeless really is the future.
Funny, just yesterday I was out with someone who was on his brand new Mavic UST wheels/tyres - the very ones in this video. About 40km in he punctured (a tiny hole, perhaps a mm long). Sealant sprayed everywhere and utterly failed to close anything.
@@ChrisCowley Working in a bike shop my experience with road tubeless has been less than stellar. I've seen everything from a tire that has been seated and inflated for several days spontaneously blowing off the rim, but as the tire/rim systems have gotten better we don't see this too much anymore. The biggest issue is it just doesn't work as it does on MTB, road tires have too much pressure and not enough volume. Just recently set up a set of Bontrager Aeolus Pro 5 TLR's with the matching tires and factory tubeless rim strips went together fine seated without issue, but the guy had gotten a flat from a small piece of wire the day before with tubes in, the sealant did its job at first after setup sealing the small hole but even after letting it sit sealed for several days the hole with not stay sealed at 80psi which is was is needed for the weight of the rider. Maybe road tubeless is like super lightweight wheels and should only be used for riders under 150 lbs that can run 60psi or less.
Great video - thank you! By the way: When you suffer puncture which the sealant does not fix itself, the solution is not to use a tube. The solution is to use a tubeless tyre repair kit like Sahmurai Sword. Quick and easy. No need to go back to tube once you've gone tubeless! And if you want to install the tyre even quicker with less worries, invest in a Bontrager Flash Charger, Topeak Joeblow Booster or similar. Went tubeless a few years back and have never looked back.
David - must admit I have never actually suffered a puncture the two years I've used various tubeless tyres from the Schwalbe One and G-One series on daily trips on road and gravel. One of the reasons why I love tubeless. But friends recommend Sahmurai and I've seen it done. There is also Dynaplug and similar repair kits.
Torkel Thorsen Thanks. I've grab the Dynaplug for my TT bike and Sahmurai for my road bike. Sort of want a puncture now haha. I've been running tubeless for about a year now. I have had 2-3 punctures that the No Stans Race Sealant couldn't deal with. Slices really, about 6-8 mm long. I'm not sure if any of these plugs could fill a slice that big. We'll see. Thanks.
Great Video - I was new to tubeless when i bought a UST system 4 months ago. My experience is as you describe, a cinch, i was thinking what was all the tubeless fuss about. Just this morning i had a front puncture, sealant spraying up on the bars couple of minutes down the road no more gunk, carry on riding. Put it on the pump when i got home, just 4psi down. As it was cold and persisting it down i rode home with a smile on my face!
I’ve been running campagnolo zondas with 28mm schwable pro 1s and Stan’s sealant. 4,000 miles on Chicago and Philadelphia roads and only one puncture that didn’t seal (a shard of glass that sliced the tire open...) light, fast (at 70psi), comfortable and durable. Totally worth the afternoon-long it took to set them up. Once through the learning curve, it takes 10min per tire to set up if you have an air compressor. No going back to getting jarred on 110psi tubes. I only carry a spare tube and pump on centuries now.
Cool! Thanks Mike. I bought a set of these wheels this winter and I haven't ridden them yet, but I can't wait. I just got home from riding the Paris Roubaix Sportif and it was epic. I ran Ultegra tubeless with Schwalbe tires 28mm (60ml of sealant). They were brilliant! I ran 45psi on the front and 60 on the back. Six hours of suffering later and I was actually feeling pretty damn good and I didn't feel that jostled on the rough stuff. I've been running tubeless road tires for four years on and off. I think we have finally graduated to where this is an amazing way to go, especially for bumpy roads.
I think the real question in everyone's mind is what are the names of the cats. Also are they any good at climbing or are they more focused on sprinting.
This could easily have been edited down ten minutes and you would have reached a much larger audience and gotten a lot more likes. Thank you for providing the time stamps. Big help.
I am running the exact same setup (bike and wheelset) and can confirm that the Yksion Pro UST are indeed very good tyres. About 2,500Km on the clock so far, the rear tyre looks like new, no punctures, good grip and seemingly low rolling resistance. Recommended!
Thanks a mil for making this video it's the best I've ever seen , only wish I saw it before I took my mew tubless bike out of the bikeshop ! Great work !
Great video. I've seated quite a few tubless tyres for the road, and they've never been as easy as you demonstrated here :D Looking forward to the new muc-off sealant being released - their stuff always works well and smells nice.
I can totally relate. I tried a set of HED Ardennes II which were tubeless compatible. A complete total bitch to install tires (Continental GPs). They are without a doubt 1 or 2 mm too big in diameter for Continental and Schwalbe tires (the only ones I tried). Had to purchase a tire jack to just barely get them on with enormous and bead damaging effort. Tried EVERY trick to mount them including putting tires in the drier to warm them up. Forget plastic tire levers. No way in hell that I could have inserted a tube roadside in the event of an unsealable puncture. When Mavic came out with their UST Ksyriums I decided to give them a try a year ago. They have been fantastic so far. I could actually run them without sealant they hold air that well. I hope other manufacturers adopt their bead specifications and wheel diameter tolerances. Oh, I'm 62 Kgs, pumped to 4.5 bar/70psi.
I´m not in Mavic Wheels/Tyres now (I've been in Ksyrium for years), but tubeless is the way to go IMHO. Running Roval CLX wheels with Specialized s-works tubeless tyres. Perfect match.
I love the concept of standardization between tyres and wheels that Mavic is doing. Although this has great promise, from what I have read, the trouble is in execution. Specifically, in order to gain the benefits promised, you must use Mavic tyres. If you read the reviews of these tyres, they are awful (premature wear, poor construction, etc). If Mavic can partner with a world class tyre maker, like Continental, then I would probably jump at this.
Excellent Video, and while I was on the fence for going tubeless on my road, after watching your video ,I decided to dive straight in with the Mavic UST system. Running the Mavic Comete 64mm UST system...thanks.
the original system of tubeless, for sure, was difficult to mount and remove the tire. they've fixed a lot of those issues, as you've discovered. I've been on tubeless for many years now, through the improvements, and have enjoyed very few flats, and maintain my sets at home with a hand pump. one trick, add sealant, spin it around for a minute or two, and then begin filling it with air. nice to see you rediscover the beauty of tubeless on the road.
Hi. I so that in this video you ride disk brake version of this wheels. How do you think is rim brake version will be ok for amateur rider in big mountain? Thanks
To seat recalcitrant tubeless beads just spray a LITTLE starting ether into tire then light. The expanding gasses will pop the beads into place. Disclaimer: used on large truck tires many times, never bicycles.
I'm using Mavic UST, first time tubeless, starting the second season now. I don't ride in the winter so the sealant dries out in pools inside the tire. My idea was to take the tire off, scrap out the worst of the dry sealant and then remount. New tires are more difficult to get on the rim, but can be hand-pumped without any sealant to seat it, and then I add sealant in a second step. When refitting the old tire I don't get it to seal around the rim like a new. So what's the deal here? Never remove a tubeless tire and don't care about last seasons dried out sealant, just add more? Or always use sealant directly when fitting an old tire? Any tips are welcome.
Ok, I'll answer to myself now when I have experimented some :-). Getting a used tire refitted and seated is considerably harder and less reliable than with a new. Peel away the worst sealant residues along the bead, fit the tire normally. If it won't become seated when pumping up normally, spray the tire and rim with soapy water (forms a temporary seal and makes the tire seat more easily). If still hard to seat remove a valve core and use a compressor (or air canister) to fill the tire faster. Once seated, let the air out, remove the valve core and insert fresh sealant with a syringe.
Don't over inflate with road setups even with with tubeless ready rims and tyres because they can and do blow off. I learned my lesson very early on by inflating above 90 psi, i think close to 100 psi one let go. I wish i had earplugs in because my ears rang for a couple of hours, the percussive sound was incredible inside my garage..
Over inflating is when you go over the max recommended pressure for the tyres you are using. Inflating above 90 or 100 or more PSI doesn't mean anything by itself. My previous Continental tyres had a min PSI of 80 and max PSI of 120. My current Pirelli have a min PSI of 87 and max of 110 PSI. The pressure I use depends on the tyres specs and the road and weather conditions. I use closer to the min PSI when I run my bike on bad roads/bad weather or when just commuting, and somewhere in the middle for more sportive rides. Also I go for a slightly lower pressure for the front tyre to absorb some of the impact.
Ștefan Roșu yes max pressure is the sidewall number, but from my experience running at these pressures is putting the tyre under the max stress, i have found by keep a 25% margin under these pressures the tyres are generally more reliable. I am a heavier rider so the lightweight argument is mute. I agree be conservative with the “max” pressure.
glenny oc I've done it several times! Once, my neighbour thought I'd fired a gun! I have ruined clothes with a shower of gunk (it cannot be washed off clothes so wear overalls!). I once had a mountain bike tyre blow off during inflation and it flew into the air. Thankfully I wasn't near it. I've had an injured thumb once when a bead flew off. That was all years ago though. Mountain bike and road tyres and rims are all better for tubeless inflation. I use CO2 and a reservoir with a track pump. Zero punctures for the last 10 years!
Hi Johan, the tyres should be mounted so that on the front the pattern looks like it's forming a V if you look down on it from above. On the rear it's the opposite so the tyre is mounted with the pattern making an arrow. Hope that makes sense! Cheers, Mike
Does it make sense to have it done at the local shop since it needs to be done only once the life span of the tire? How much would it cost to have them done if I buy the tire at the same time?
I’ve yet to have a puncture seal.. I don’t think the pressures are low enough in a 25mm tire to help with sealing. I end up with sealant all over the bike, then have to plug the hole (dynaplugs are amazing). I’m back to tubes on my new bike (RideNow TPUs). TPUs are cheap now .. getting mine for well under 10 usd each. Under 30 grams a tube. No issues
Hi Mike I know I am pretty late to this video. I have just bought a set of Roval SLX 24 tubeless ready wheels and Schwalbe Pro One EVO tubeless tyres. They will not seat, took them to my bike shop they tried a compressor still no luck. From watching loads of RUclips videos it’s seems to be a complete lottery as to whether your wheel/tyre combo is going to work. Roval provide no info as to what tyre will work. Are you aware of any info on the Internet that can tell me which tyres are going to work? Thanks for any help.
Great Video!!! answers some of my questions. But i struggle with one thing: The mavic app suggests 6.8 bar for rear tire. for the rim 7bar max is allowed wherass for the tire only 6 bar. how come? ( I use ksyrium Elite UST and went ca 500km with 7bar without issues)
Hi! I have some questions for my first time riding a col. I've ridden some 5km climbs but never a proper col. End June I'm going to the south of France for 3 weeks to train (region st tropez). With the car it's a 2h30 drive to col de la bonette but also a 2u30 drive to the mont ventoux. Which climb do you recommend in terms of scenery, roads, hardness, traffic, epicness... ? I'm have currently a 36x28 on my bike, is it necessary to put a 34 on? (I'm a sprinter (79kg)) Do you recommend taking extra clothes for the decent end June/begin July? Love the videos, it gives me inspiration to cycle even more!
These looked so good I bought a set. Decided to replace the valves with Milkit but... can't get the tyres off! I just cannot break the bead. Watched the video at 06:40 numerous times with no joy. Even the local bike shop can't get them to budge.
@RollinRat Interesting. I've thought I would throw the tyre, with a plug in it, once I get home; the plug was just to get me home. But I've kept riding a few tyres for months after plugging them (one a 23mm with a side wall plug). No problems. I certainly trust a plug more than I trust an inner tube with it's ultra thin material, yet thousands of people are riding on inner tubes.
@RollinRat Sure. Skinny tyres suck, so ANYTHING IMO. It is rare to find tarmax smooth enough that a skinny tyre, like 19mm or 23mm, would be faster anyway. I've been trying to ride off road more, but with Brown Snakes who's venom can kill you in 2 hours and lack of phone reception, I am thinking cars are safer 🤷🏻♂️
in my case dont, at 100psi the sealant doesnt work, and when i put a plug with the pression insidecant stay making a mess of sealant everywhere, and isnt a joke
I'm about to go tubeless, and would like to know what I need to bring for flat repair. Do I still need to bring a tube? Or will a tire repair kit with CO2 cartridges suffice?
From my experience so far the sealant has always repaired the tyre while riding. That said, I still carry a spare tube and pump just in case. It's always better to be safe and self sufficient in my opinion. Hope that helps Harry. Enjoy! Mike
From a mtb background i always add sealant through the valve stem. I dont even touch the tire anymore. I remove the core and drop in 3 oz and I'm good. I would like to be able to remove the core without a wrench tho. That would be a nice improvement.
Never run tubeless as everyone has said you need the compressor to seat them, so this looks great. But when you do puncture and it seals then what? Can you just keep letting the sealant keeping, puncture after puncture, do it's job and run the tyres till they wear out?
Yes, that's exactly right. Assuming the hole isn't too big and the sealant does its job, there's nothing more to do and you can keep on using the tyre until it wears out.
Yes if the repair holds it is good for the life of the tyre, but sometimes it holds for a few rides and blows out and then reseals at a lot lower pressure. You pump it up again and the cycle repeats. Sealant is not as good at sealing at higher pressures, why it is not as reliable as the MTB world. Sealant does reduce punctures but not all of them.
Are there going to be more videos of climbs up cols? There seem to be a lot of non-col videos on this channel recently, but I enjoy watching the col climb ones.
evictorr Definitely. I’m working on the next climb video at this very moment. Actually we have many, many, on the way so you’ll have a lot of climbing and ride videos coming up to enjoy. Stay tuned. Mike
Question for everyone: 1. Swap the Roval carbon tube tire wheels from current tarmac, or 2. Use DT Swiss R470 aluminum tubeless rim that comes standard on new bike? Love my existing carbon wheels but they’re not tubeless...
I'm certain at least some of it dries on the inside but the general principle is moisture can't escape/enter allowing the sealant to remain as a liquid
Haha, I had exact the same experience with my old Mavic CrossMax Enduro UST rim brake version. Impossible to mount or dismount the tire and even if the UST worked nice and it actually allowed you to run at much lower tire pressure my rear end started to leak after a year and after 8h(at work) it was flat. But back then UST was advertised as sealant less system. Having to use it now makes it no different than any other ghetto ust or tubeless system.
All I'm asking here is how much of a pain in the neck is it to get conti tyres on this rim. In the past I've felt like I needed hulk hands to get contis on Mavic rims.
I've broken tire levers on Hutchinson tires set up tubeless on Dura Ace wheels. Frustrating. Hopefully this Mavic set up is more evolved and user friendly.
These tires are excellent in winter 0 puncture ... But as soon as temperature goes up the rubber softens and gets multiple cut ... The mavic sealant is useless and you can't use any sealant with these tires... I ruined the rear one with Giant sealant. It started sweating then blistering after a couple of weeks. the first blister was in the thread I still could use the tire... The second was partly in the sidewall, it burst and the casing became visible. I am using the Hutchinson sealant with the front tire it seems to be working fine. Hutchinson manufactures the tires for Mavic
Dear Mike Cotti, like your videos very much, but could you please talk a little bit slower? There are a lot of viewers w. English not as a first language. Большое спасибо! Keep on producing such good and informative content.
Good point. You can, however, go to the "gear icon" in the RUclips video (bottom right corner) and change (slow down) the playback speed. I imagine this should help you out a great deal
Road tubeless is OK until you get puncture that wont seal, then you get to deal with sealant all over your hands and bike. Plus road tubeless wont let you run more than 100 psi more than that creates a chance you will blow the tire off the rim. (some say over 90 psi).
Schwalbe Pro 1 Tubeless can be inflated to 120PSI. Not sure I would ever go back to running over 100PSI in a tyre again as the comfort and speed of lower tyre pressures is well proven. A 25mm tubeless setup at 80 Front & 85 Rear (80kg rider) is faster and more comfortable over any surface rougher than a velodrome, in my opinion.
Yes schwalbe have done the most r&d in to Road tubeless, 120 psi can be achieved ( if your doing a 10 mile TT ) but 90 feels same as aproxx 110 on a conti 4000 II but with better road holding, cornering, comfort, etc. Had great results with the schwalbe Pro one tubeless - should you have a Big slash or cut and the sealant cannot hold pressure, let me tell you, a normal inter tube tyre - say a conti 4000 would be knackered as a hole this size will mean the inner tube will hearneate Out from the inside, at the roadside with a tyre and a tube set up and with a hole this Big you will be lucky for either an inner tube patch ( if you have a puncture kit with you ) or a spare piece of inner tube inside the tyre to get you home and stop the inner tube Bulging Out when your replace it, Again your in a difficult spot either with tubeless or with a tyre and tube at this point, Tubeless offer so many benefits when riding, far less punctures, a lack of pinch flats, and feel more confident of going downhill fast with far more confidence, also there far superior on Strada bianchi / gravel and anything that could be considered off road or shitty rough roads. Also thorns, flint, glass, shards sharp stuff that puts holes in Tyres - tubeless deals with this in its stride. Cannot speak for the other road tubeless offerings on the market, such as Hutchinson, vittoria, etc... this post starts off a bit negative about tubeless but ends up being very positive - once you’ve ridden tubeless YOU WILL NOT GO BACK 😂
Andrew Podmore I have read many people have tried it, then the sealant doesn’t work and they are stuck with trying to fix a mess. So go back to tubes. The only reason a clincher doesn’t work that well with a tube and sealant in, is the butyl tubes don’t seal well with sealant whilst latex tubes do. I run tubulars (latex tubes in) with 30mls of sealant and get incredible reliability. Yes it doesn’t fix every puncture. But using tubular, no burping, no risk of blowing a tyre of the rim, the tyre rim combination is lighter, you can ride on a flat tubular tyre (slowly), you can ride them at a low or high pressure, if you get a blow out the tyre doesn’t leave the rim and the failing overheating brake track with 80 psi behind is a non issue as there is no pressure on the rim!. Tubulars maybe old school, but I still see manufacturers fluffing around trying to make other systems work. Tubeless is very good for MTB as the sealant works better at lower pressures, but for road tyres it is not as reliable. I will stick to my tubulars thanks Mavic.
It completely depends on two things. Sealant brand and where you live. Aka geography. Mostly sealant brand. Wtb sealant can dry up much faster than stans.
Hi Mike. Suppose you don't want to ride with sealant. Can you put in an ordinary patch from the inside of the tire? This would seem to provide a much more durable seal than sealant, and allow you to use the tire for a longer period of time. I am aware of the mountain bike repair kits mentioned below by Torkel, but I don't think there is enough thickness in a road tire for those plugs to work properly. Second, unrelated question: How is it that when you record your videos and you are talking whilst riding, there is absolutely no noise from the wind? You sound exactly like you do in this video, but I know from riding outside that at high speeds the wind can be loud enough not to be able to hear someone behind you.
I have the same setup as Mike. The Mavic tires are 'Tubeless ready' and not 'Tubeless'... if you are not familiar with this distinction in mountain bike tires, the difference is that a tubeless tire has specially shaped beads that lock onto the rim but the tire's casing has an additional built-in layer that seals the air in, usually a layer of butyl, same material as standard tubes. In those, sealant just serves the purpose of fixing eventual punctures and is optional. Tubeless Ready tires like the Yksion Pro UST have the same beads that lock securely onto the rims but not a 100% sealed casing so while you can install them without sealant and they will inflate, they rely on sealant to keep the air in, without sealant, they lose their pressure too quickly. I first installed mine without sealant just to test but in my experience, they lose pressure too fast to go on anything but a very short ride. Why would they not add the sealed layer then? It makes tires heavier but perhaps more importantly, also much stiffer so the ride quality, confort, grip and rolling resistance all suffer... and given that most people use sealant even with fully sealed tubeless tires, I think the ride quality and weight saving makes sense so it's no surprise that fully sealed tubless tires have almost vanished from the market. But punctures that are fixed with sealant are usually a permanent fix anyway. For many, you don't even notice you flatted by the time your tires wear out.
I have the Mavic Allroad 30mm and just repaired a puncture with a Velox internal patch (and glue) that the mavic sealant would not permanently seal as it normally would with a smaller cut in the tyre. Easy to do. I have had less success with the external plugs but they at least got me home. I did feel that the plug applicator was putting a bigger hole in the tyre than that made by the glass shard. Maybe some practice is required to get that right but it does work.
Major K Kong I have been running road tubeless for over 5 years in many combinations of rims and tires. I have gotten sealant in the valve. It is not a big problem until you change a tire. Then with a clogged valve you can’t get air in fast enough to inflate the tire. Make sure you have valves with a removable core. Just remove the core and clean out the valve, the tiniest bit of grease on the valve core will help it not get stuck if sealant gets on it. Almost a non-issue.
Always loved your COL Videos, very professionally done and you have a great voice. But my only small complaint. This is 2018 and could you please shoot them in 4K . Again love your work.. I like how mavic has taken the lead on the tubeless tire / wheel problem, and fixed it..
Ted lastname Hi Ted, I’ve shot all the latest Col videos in 4K so there are some online now and more to come. I’ve got a huge library I’m working through editing so still have many videos in 1080 still to put out. The main issue with 4K is how big the raw files are and how long it takes to work with the footage. It can easily take me 3 times longer to produce a video so I try to find the best compromise between quality and efficiency. Thanks for watching. Mike
Mavic have done some great work in mating the tyre to their rims. But it means you are locked into their combination, at least currently, and it still doesn’t solve all the problems with tubeless.
It depends on the sealant. There are new ones that never dry out which I will be moving to once I use up all my Stan's: reviews.mtbr.com/frostbike-2018-finish-lines-new-sealant-that-never-dries-out
I just don’t get this tubeless thing. It is still a clincher with clincher problems. A tubular with sealant in (like a tubeless) is super reliable. It gets rid of all the clincher problems. You still need to carry a tube and a boot with a tubeless. With a tubular you carry a spare tyre. So what is the benefit?? If tubeless didn’t mean you needed a spare then it would be good. But sealant doesn’t always work and good luck putting a tube in with all that messy sealant.
As you dont need to glue the tyre on to your wheel. Tubeless will seal the vast majority of punctures you get, the wider ones you can use patches. If it doesn't work you can still just stick an inner tube in. There are other tubeless tyres that are easier to fit on. The benefit is that any small puncture will seal itself without you even noticing.
Anders Torger Thanks yes totally agree, but just two things; 1. I use tape (gave up glue years ago) and is easy with no mess. 2. Rolling resistance is in the realms of marginal gains, which in the industry is somewhat exaggerated. It also depends a lot on pressures and the roughness of the road, they are many variables in this equation of calculating rolling resistance, in my opinion ( i use to be a laboratory tester in the past) the differences are so small they are in the realms of the uncertainty of the measurement. Also I just had a Vittoria corsa speed graphene tubular tyre on the rear of my bike with 30mls of stans in, run it to the carcass, no cuts, no punctures 1000km. Google this tyre, it is a strictly lightweight tubular recommended for racing only due to it being rated as fragile. I did general group rides and mostly commuting with it. A tubular has all the other benefits of a tubeless and more as it is lighter tyre rim combination and doesn’t have the heat brake track issue as with clincher designs, why the pros still use them. Yes tubulars can work out slightly more expensive.. agreed, but when your buying carbon mavic rims and tyres I don’t think this is an issue. I still argue nothing new that has come along which is ground breaking and the trusty old tubular (including tube and clincher) will still be around for a while yet.
No they dont work! What happens if the sealant will seal the hole and stop the air coming out but will also allow tiny little air bubbles overtime to seep out so you'll end up just with a tyre with a lot of slow punches and you'll be pumping it up quite a lot.
no, but I rode three different mavic wheelsets and the mavic tires they came with, they all picked up pebbles and nicked quite easily. And come on, you're no doubt selling product here and I bet you don't have to pay for any mavic product, soo.... I just wanted to warn paying customers. after all mavic just want to sell us their tires which will sure be more expensive than Conti 4000S
I am thinking of changing to Mavic Ksyrium Elite UST tubeless but am worried about the fact that at 69 years old I tend to cycle very little in the depth of winter. Does the sealant solidify with lack of use? Do you just add more sealant without the necessity of cleaning out the old sealant ? I get my bike serviced once a year? I also do a lot of long distance cycling and am planning to ride London to Valencia. The thought of dealing with a puncture on a remote road in the Pyrenees is worrying me. Any advice would be appreciated.
Peter Phillips Ask col collective With my mountain bike yes . Sealant drys and in hot weather more so . All ways need to top up and on mountain bike I can be more lazy because of low pressure . Lots off work .
I havent run mine long enough to find out if they do that yet. Although I was in a bad accident during a race and broke my collarbone and some ribs, so I was off the bike for 3 months. My bike was on the work stand and I was riding the smart trainer, so I did spin the tires around every couple of days. Recently got back on the road and had a puncture, sealant did it's job fine. There is a new Finish line product that is suppose to last the life of the tire and not dry up, I think it's non latex based. www.finishlineusa.com/products/tubeless-tire-sealant/sealant Haven't tried this yet, but looks interesting. Overall, I'm extremely happy with the Mavic UST system. I've only been running it for about 6 months, but have had Zero flats. With my GP4000SII tires I would have had at least 3-4. (usually it's about 1 a month) I do ride about 5-6 days a week though.
Tubeless hmm, beware DO NOT run them close to the max allowed inflation. There is not enough warning about this. I had a tyre explode off the rim which ended up in a traumatic dislocation of the knee (broken tibia, ACL, PCL and MCL) - still on crutches 3 months later. Stick with tubes.
The Trouble with ‘Road Tubeless’ by Jan Heine Posted on May 29, 2017 "There are more and more reports of tires blowing off the rims." janheine.wordpress.com/2017/05/29/the-trouble-with-road-tubeless/
Tubeless is a nice idea that doesn't really work, mainly because of what is said in this video: if you have a small tear your tire (which does happen), you're in big trouble!! Messy and you have to carry a tube anyways. So stick with tube.
Of course it works. Yes, it's a good idea to carry a tube, but the whole point is that the chances of having to stop and use that tube are greatly reduced.
I get you point, but if I have to carry a tube, well, it is no longer a tubeless system, is it? Plus, tubeless tires, with the sealant, are heavier (plus extra weight of aback up tube). And if you have to use that tube, it gets messy my friend. Cheers
If there's no tube in the tyre, of course it's tubeless! Plus it's lighter, not heavier. Schwalbe Pro One tubeless at 255g plus sealant will weigh less than Schwalbe One at 225g plus tube. As for mess, have you ever changed a tube and still had clean hands?
specialized s works tubeless is 240g i ve had zero punctures. i still take a tube with me and a tubeless patch kit as if i get a bad tear with tyre will not reseat without a track pump. only issue is these are very expensive
Doesn't really work?? After a year of steady riding on DuraAce C24s with Schwalbe Pro Ones and nary a puncture (at least none I was aware of) and the added benefit of riding at 80-85 psi on 25's for more comfort I find out I've got it all wrong! I was flatting about once a week prior to going tubeless on the crappy roads I have to ride.
Talks way too long just to show us a simple thing. I still don’t believe you of what to do after you have a flat. You have to carry an extra tire, really?!?!
I run tubeless with Stan's sealant and bring along a small tube of superglue and self-adhesive patches. Sealant solves 95% of any punctures., although I never notice until I get home and find a little sealant on my frame.
If the hole is larger than the sealant can handle (only happened once in 9,000 miles) I'll apply superglue to the hole from outside and use one of the patches (yes outside).
Glue sets, rotate wheel to get sealant on hole, then inflate. After a few miles the patch wears away leaving glue/patch material in hole or small cut.
I don't carry tubes.
Interesting. Any particular brand of superglue and or patch that you can recommend?
I do exactly the same with my tubulars running 30mls of sealant.
I read this after 2 years, but still: what patches and what glue are you using? thats possibly the best method i heard of until now!!
@@benNo1989 yes it works great. not high tech so almost any combination will work. I had Park Tool glue-less Super Patches so I used those. Anything relatively thick and rubber would work, I guess even electrical tape as mentioned above. Also I imagine that self-amalgamating rubber tape would be great. NOT silicone tape, nothing sticks to that except itself! I like Locktite super gel glue the squeeze dispenser never clogs up and the gel is easier to work with on a tire hole. good luck!
This might be THE BEST video on not only tubeless set up, but putting on a tire, period. Ive been battling levers and breaking them on stiff tires for years…. I knew about putti the lip on the center dip of the rim, but the squeezing the tire down as you move your hands??!! BRILLIANT. None of my ridding buddies knew of this, we al always fought these damn tires and ruined tubes etc.
I just went out to my garage to do it your way and BAM! Didn’t even need a lever…. Years of pain just faded away. thank you!
There are SO MANY small little tips here that no other instructional video mentions…down to the syringe pull back to avoid spill everywhere, which if you’re ever done this, this sealant ends up on everything!
This video needs to be the first and only one that pops up for anyone learning to out tire son and seating up tubeless, is that perfect.
I gave up on it and have gone back to tubes: I had front and rear punctures second ride which did not seal and ended up having to walk home. Totally agree with the mess, sealant sprayed all over the frame every time I had a puncture, which, by the way, occurred more often than with tubes. Further downside is that, because of higher pressures involved with a road system, a puncture, if sealed, loses much more air than with an MTB set up - rolling resistance and further puncture likelihood both go up.. Almost impossible to remove and refit a tyre by the roadside without more tools than I normally carry i.e. adding weight to your emergency toolkit. You still need to carry a spare tube and a tyre boot. You might have to carry both a pump and a gas canister with spare cartridges to get a tyre to seal if it comes off the bead. One very expensive tyre had to be thrown away after only 60 miles; the reduced pressure after a puncture allowed the wheel rim to wear through the sidewall which I discovered when I got home. Final straw was not getting a tyre to seat in my own workshop trying first with a track pump, then with a gas cartridge and also with my air compressor. I tried three different wheelsets, an Ultegra, HED, and Pacenti, all tubeless or tubeless ready and a couple of different tyres. Admittedly some combinations were easier to fit than others. They all lost pressure between rides to some degree. I had a better experience with tubs despite having to learn how to glue them, replace them by the roadside and then sew them back together after a puncture repair I've still got the wheels, the tyres have all been consigned to the bin because I just can't be bothered with the expense, the mess, the risk of being stuck and (see bicyclerollingresistance) no significant performance improvement. Bah.
Andrew Langshanks Yep agree
On a recent sportive, I went through a very rough patch of road and had to replace an inner tube, no problem; I also had five sidewall rips that needed tyre boots (I always carry a couple). I limped home but at least I got back. this would not have been possible with road tubeless. I dread to think how much damage I would have done to the tyre without a tube or the absolute nightmare that would have been trying to fix it at the roadside. Emperors new clothes.
What rim/tube combinations where you using? Could help explain the difficulties you had.
sounds like a sealant related issue, which brand did you use? did you shake it up well before putting it in the tire? the particles might have coagulated in the container before you used it. this video shows a comparison between a bunch of sealants in case anyone wondered ruclips.net/video/a3tb8L5o1OU/видео.html
Same with me. Mountain bikes seem to be ideal. Road bikes are still iffy. Too high a pressure. Not everyone has the time to find the right combo of tire, wheel, and sealant. There should be no thought to what brands work together.. they should all work 100prct (like tubes do lol). Until then… RideNow TPUs and clinchers. Just as light
Running road tubeless myself. One year, zero punctures that the sealant hasn't sealed instantly. I run all the way down to 50psi for super bumpy roads on 25mm tires, 65kg rider weight. Never going back to tubes. Tubeless really is the future.
Ketzal Sterling, Which sealant/tires do you use?
Oh to be 65kg...
Funny, just yesterday I was out with someone who was on his brand new Mavic UST wheels/tyres - the very ones in this video. About 40km in he punctured (a tiny hole, perhaps a mm long). Sealant sprayed everywhere and utterly failed to close anything.
I belief the future will be airless tires. For now, use whatever suits you best. Cheers!
@@ChrisCowley Working in a bike shop my experience with road tubeless has been less than stellar. I've seen everything from a tire that has been seated and inflated for several days spontaneously blowing off the rim, but as the tire/rim systems have gotten better we don't see this too much anymore. The biggest issue is it just doesn't work as it does on MTB, road tires have too much pressure and not enough volume. Just recently set up a set of Bontrager Aeolus Pro 5 TLR's with the matching tires and factory tubeless rim strips went together fine seated without issue, but the guy had gotten a flat from a small piece of wire the day before with tubes in, the sealant did its job at first after setup sealing the small hole but even after letting it sit sealed for several days the hole with not stay sealed at 80psi which is was is needed for the weight of the rider. Maybe road tubeless is like super lightweight wheels and should only be used for riders under 150 lbs that can run 60psi or less.
Great video - thank you! By the way: When you suffer puncture which the sealant does not fix itself, the solution is not to use a tube. The solution is to use a tubeless tyre repair kit like Sahmurai Sword. Quick and easy. No need to go back to tube once you've gone tubeless! And if you want to install the tyre even quicker with less worries, invest in a Bontrager Flash Charger, Topeak Joeblow Booster or similar. Went tubeless a few years back and have never looked back.
Torkel Thorsen Results with the Sahmurai?
David - must admit I have never actually suffered a puncture the two years I've used various tubeless tyres from the Schwalbe One and G-One series on daily trips on road and gravel. One of the reasons why I love tubeless. But friends recommend Sahmurai and I've seen it done. There is also Dynaplug and similar repair kits.
Kinda hard to recommend a patch kit over tubes if you’ve never had to fix a flat, eh?
Torkel Thorsen Thanks. I've grab the Dynaplug for my TT bike and Sahmurai for my road bike. Sort of want a puncture now haha. I've been running tubeless for about a year now. I have had 2-3 punctures that the No Stans Race Sealant couldn't deal with. Slices really, about 6-8 mm long. I'm not sure if any of these plugs could fill a slice that big. We'll see. Thanks.
Worth carrying a tube in case all else fails.
Great Video - I was new to tubeless when i bought a UST system 4 months ago. My experience is as you describe, a cinch, i was thinking what was all the tubeless fuss about.
Just this morning i had a front puncture, sealant spraying up on the bars couple of minutes down the road no more gunk, carry on riding. Put it on the pump when i got home, just 4psi down. As it was cold and persisting it down i rode home with a smile on my face!
I’ve been running campagnolo zondas with 28mm schwable pro 1s and Stan’s sealant. 4,000 miles on Chicago and Philadelphia roads and only one puncture that didn’t seal (a shard of glass that sliced the tire open...) light, fast (at 70psi), comfortable and durable. Totally worth the afternoon-long it took to set them up. Once through the learning curve, it takes 10min per tire to set up if you have an air compressor. No going back to getting jarred on 110psi tubes. I only carry a spare tube and pump on centuries now.
How you liking them now? I too have Zondas and While I have a few tires to burn through before I can go tubeless, I am looking at them as an option.
Cool! Thanks Mike. I bought a set of these wheels this winter and I haven't ridden them yet, but I can't wait. I just got home from riding the Paris Roubaix Sportif and it was epic. I ran Ultegra tubeless with Schwalbe tires 28mm (60ml of sealant). They were brilliant! I ran 45psi on the front and 60 on the back. Six hours of suffering later and I was actually feeling pretty damn good and I didn't feel that jostled on the rough stuff. I've been running tubeless road tires for four years on and off. I think we have finally graduated to where this is an amazing way to go, especially for bumpy roads.
I think the real question in everyone's mind is what are the names of the cats.
Also are they any good at climbing or are they more focused on sprinting.
Best video I"be seen on this subject !
Thankyou ! 😜
This could easily have been edited down ten minutes and you would have reached a much larger audience and gotten a lot more likes. Thank you for providing the time stamps. Big help.
I am running the exact same setup (bike and wheelset) and can confirm that the Yksion Pro UST are indeed very good tyres. About 2,500Km on the clock so far, the rear tyre looks like new, no punctures, good grip and seemingly low rolling resistance. Recommended!
Thanks Mike, this video help me a lot! I had a lot of doubts about Mavic ust, and this video solve everything.
Thanks a mil for making this video it's the best I've ever seen , only wish I saw it before I took my mew tubless bike out of the bikeshop !
Great work !
Mike, great video! I love the detailed descriptions and explanations. You seem like a happy human being. Cats are cool.
Very honest and transparent video. Thanks Nike!
Great video. I've seated quite a few tubless tyres for the road, and they've never been as easy as you demonstrated here :D Looking forward to the new muc-off sealant being released - their stuff always works well and smells nice.
Awesome video, great knowledge. Cheers Mike!
I can totally relate. I tried a set of HED Ardennes II which were tubeless compatible. A complete total bitch to install tires (Continental GPs). They are without a doubt 1 or 2 mm too big in diameter for Continental and Schwalbe tires (the only ones I tried). Had to purchase a tire jack to just barely get them on with enormous and bead damaging effort. Tried EVERY trick to mount them including putting tires in the drier to warm them up. Forget plastic tire levers. No way in hell that I could have inserted a tube roadside in the event of an unsealable puncture. When Mavic came out with their UST Ksyriums I decided to give them a try a year ago. They have been fantastic so far. I could actually run them without sealant they hold air that well. I hope other manufacturers adopt their bead specifications and wheel diameter tolerances. Oh, I'm 62 Kgs, pumped to 4.5 bar/70psi.
I´m not in Mavic Wheels/Tyres now (I've been in Ksyrium for years), but tubeless is the way to go IMHO. Running Roval CLX wheels with Specialized s-works tubeless tyres. Perfect match.
I love the concept of standardization between tyres and wheels that Mavic is doing. Although this has great promise, from what I have read, the trouble is in execution. Specifically, in order to gain the benefits promised, you must use Mavic tyres. If you read the reviews of these tyres, they are awful (premature wear, poor construction, etc). If Mavic can partner with a world class tyre maker, like Continental, then I would probably jump at this.
SPOT ON
Thanks so much for doing this video.
Excellent Video, and while I was on the fence for going tubeless on my road, after watching your video ,I decided to dive straight in with the Mavic UST system. Running the Mavic Comete 64mm UST system...thanks.
Welcome to the team!! :-)
the original system of tubeless, for sure, was difficult to mount and remove the tire. they've fixed a lot of those issues, as you've discovered. I've been on tubeless for many years now, through the improvements, and have enjoyed very few flats, and maintain my sets at home with a hand pump. one trick, add sealant, spin it around for a minute or two, and then begin filling it with air. nice to see you rediscover the beauty of tubeless on the road.
really nice video Notice after the Cow Collective we have the Cat Collective !
Covering all bases.....Col, Cow and Cat Collective :-)
Hi. I so that in this video you ride disk brake version of this wheels. How do you think is rim brake version will be ok for amateur rider in big mountain? Thanks
I have mavic cosmic carbon pro sl ust its impossible to get mavic ust tyres on, given up £1400 wheels:-(
To seat recalcitrant tubeless beads just spray a LITTLE starting ether into tire then light. The expanding gasses will pop the beads into place. Disclaimer: used on large truck tires many times, never bicycles.
I'm using Mavic UST, first time tubeless, starting the second season now. I don't ride in the winter so the sealant dries out in pools inside the tire. My idea was to take the tire off, scrap out the worst of the dry sealant and then remount. New tires are more difficult to get on the rim, but can be hand-pumped without any sealant to seat it, and then I add sealant in a second step. When refitting the old tire I don't get it to seal around the rim like a new. So what's the deal here? Never remove a tubeless tire and don't care about last seasons dried out sealant, just add more? Or always use sealant directly when fitting an old tire? Any tips are welcome.
Ok, I'll answer to myself now when I have experimented some :-). Getting a used tire refitted and seated is considerably harder and less reliable than with a new. Peel away the worst sealant residues along the bead, fit the tire normally. If it won't become seated when pumping up normally, spray the tire and rim with soapy water (forms a temporary seal and makes the tire seat more easily). If still hard to seat remove a valve core and use a compressor (or air canister) to fill the tire faster. Once seated, let the air out, remove the valve core and insert fresh sealant with a syringe.
Will these tires work as easily on other wheels such as Enve 4.5 disc are is it the combo of the tire and rim that make them much easier to set-up?
Don't over inflate with road setups even with with tubeless ready rims and tyres because they can and do blow off. I learned my lesson very early on by inflating above 90 psi, i think close to 100 psi one let go. I wish i had earplugs in because my ears rang for a couple of hours, the percussive sound was incredible inside my garage..
glenny oc Interesting, wouldn’t want that happening when descending
Over inflating is when you go over the max recommended pressure for the tyres you are using. Inflating above 90 or 100 or more PSI doesn't mean anything by itself.
My previous Continental tyres had a min PSI of 80 and max PSI of 120. My current Pirelli have a min PSI of 87 and max of 110 PSI. The pressure I use depends on the tyres specs and the road and weather conditions. I use closer to the min PSI when I run my bike on bad roads/bad weather or when just commuting, and somewhere in the middle for more sportive rides. Also I go for a slightly lower pressure for the front tyre to absorb some of the impact.
Ștefan Roșu yes max pressure is the sidewall number, but from my experience running at these pressures is putting the tyre under the max stress, i have found by keep a 25% margin under these pressures the tyres are generally more reliable. I am a heavier rider so the lightweight argument is mute. I agree be conservative with the “max” pressure.
glenny oc I've done it several times! Once, my neighbour thought I'd fired a gun! I have ruined clothes with a shower of gunk (it cannot be washed off clothes so wear overalls!). I once had a mountain bike tyre blow off during inflation and it flew into the air. Thankfully I wasn't near it. I've had an injured thumb once when a bead flew off. That was all years ago though. Mountain bike and road tyres and rims are all better for tubeless inflation. I use CO2 and a reservoir with a track pump. Zero punctures for the last 10 years!
If i look close to the video i think that the tires are mounted the wrong way front and rear if i follow the arrows on mine. Can you confirm that?
Hi Johan, the tyres should be mounted so that on the front the pattern looks like it's forming a V if you look down on it from above. On the rear it's the opposite so the tyre is mounted with the pattern making an arrow. Hope that makes sense! Cheers, Mike
Does it make sense to have it done at the local shop since it needs to be done only once the life span of the tire?
How much would it cost to have them done if I buy the tire at the same time?
I’ve yet to have a puncture seal.. I don’t think the pressures are low enough in a 25mm tire to help with sealing. I end up with sealant all over the bike, then have to plug the hole (dynaplugs are amazing).
I’m back to tubes on my new bike (RideNow TPUs). TPUs are cheap now .. getting mine for well under 10 usd each. Under 30 grams a tube. No issues
Thanks for the video it explains a lot
Thanks, lots of good info.
Can you use the Mavic UST tires on the latest Bontregar tubeless ready wheelsets?
Hi Mike I know I am pretty late to this video. I have just bought a set of Roval SLX 24 tubeless ready wheels and Schwalbe Pro One EVO tubeless tyres. They will not seat, took them to my bike shop they tried a compressor still no luck. From watching loads of RUclips videos it’s seems to be a complete lottery as to whether your wheel/tyre combo is going to work. Roval provide no info as to what tyre will work. Are you aware of any info on the Internet that can tell me which tyres are going to work? Thanks for any help.
Thanks Mike great video
Great Video!!!
answers some of my questions.
But i struggle with one thing:
The mavic app suggests 6.8 bar for rear tire. for the rim 7bar max is allowed wherass for the tire only 6 bar. how come?
( I use ksyrium Elite UST and went ca 500km with 7bar without issues)
Hi!
I have some questions for my first time riding a col. I've ridden some 5km climbs but never a proper col. End June I'm going to the south of France for 3 weeks to train (region st tropez). With the car it's a 2h30 drive to col de la bonette but also a 2u30 drive to the mont ventoux.
Which climb do you recommend in terms of scenery, roads, hardness, traffic, epicness... ?
I'm have currently a 36x28 on my bike, is it necessary to put a 34 on? (I'm a sprinter (79kg))
Do you recommend taking extra clothes for the decent end June/begin July?
Love the videos, it gives me inspiration to cycle even more!
These looked so good I bought a set. Decided to replace the valves with Milkit but... can't get the tyres off! I just cannot break the bead. Watched the video at 06:40 numerous times with no joy. Even the local bike shop can't get them to budge.
In no way an expert, but if you re hydrate the sealant it should come loose-such as deflate and introduce some soapy water and partially re inflate
Most people have used Stans and had a bad experience. I have used Orange Seal for the past 3 years and I have never had to use my emergency tube
Tried the Dynaplug for when you get those big punctures?
I have one but haven't used it yet.
@RollinRat Interesting. I've thought I would throw the tyre, with a plug in it, once I get home; the plug was just to get me home. But I've kept riding a few tyres for months after plugging them (one a 23mm with a side wall plug). No problems. I certainly trust a plug more than I trust an inner tube with it's ultra thin material, yet thousands of people are riding on inner tubes.
@RollinRat Sure. Skinny tyres suck, so ANYTHING IMO. It is rare to find tarmax smooth enough that a skinny tyre, like 19mm or 23mm, would be faster anyway.
I've been trying to ride off road more, but with Brown Snakes who's venom can kill you in 2 hours and lack of phone reception, I am thinking cars are safer 🤷🏻♂️
in my case dont, at 100psi the sealant doesnt work, and when i put a plug with the pression insidecant stay making a mess of sealant everywhere, and isnt a joke
What if you puncture your tubular tire? Glue it on, on the Side of the road? In the winter?
I'm about to go tubeless, and would like to know what I need to bring for flat repair. Do I still need to bring a tube? Or will a tire repair kit with CO2 cartridges suffice?
From my experience so far the sealant has always repaired the tyre while riding. That said, I still carry a spare tube and pump just in case. It's always better to be safe and self sufficient in my opinion. Hope that helps Harry. Enjoy! Mike
very helpful. thank you.
From a mtb background i always add sealant through the valve stem. I dont even touch the tire anymore. I remove the core and drop in 3 oz and I'm good.
I would like to be able to remove the core without a wrench tho. That would be a nice improvement.
You can get the core out with a spoke wrench on a multi tool. Easy enough.
I love to use my dusty tubless wheelset I have! But still confusing the balance between sealant & air pressure...!
So a puncture that would have killed a tubed tyre anyway has put you off tubeless? Glad you tried again, tubeless is so much better.
watch the whole video
The story is enough to put anyone off using road tubeless. Winter time tire changes suck. But it has gotten better recently.
@12:30 doesn't work like that at all on mine. It worked like that when they came out of the box... but reinstalling the tire... nope.
can you make another video on tubular tires
They're obsolete garbage
Never run tubeless as everyone has said you need the compressor to seat them, so this looks great. But when you do puncture and it seals then what? Can you just keep letting the sealant keeping, puncture after puncture, do it's job and run the tyres till they wear out?
Yes, that's exactly right. Assuming the hole isn't too big and the sealant does its job, there's nothing more to do and you can keep on using the tyre until it wears out.
Yes if the repair holds it is good for the life of the tyre, but sometimes it holds for a few rides and blows out and then reseals at a lot lower pressure. You pump it up again and the cycle repeats. Sealant is not as good at sealing at higher pressures, why it is not as reliable as the MTB world. Sealant does reduce punctures but not all of them.
Are there going to be more videos of climbs up cols? There seem to be a lot of non-col videos on this channel recently, but I enjoy watching the col climb ones.
evictorr Definitely. I’m working on the next climb video at this very moment. Actually we have many, many, on the way so you’ll have a lot of climbing and ride videos coming up to enjoy. Stay tuned. Mike
Question for everyone: 1. Swap the Roval carbon tube tire wheels from current tarmac, or 2. Use DT Swiss R470 aluminum tubeless rim that comes standard on new bike? Love my existing carbon wheels but they’re not tubeless...
Can someone explain to me like I'm 5 why and how this sealant stuff exactly works? Why isn't it drying up on the inside of the tires?
I'm certain at least some of it dries on the inside but the general principle is moisture can't escape/enter allowing the sealant to remain as a liquid
The latex has a certain amount of ammonia added. This prevents it from drying out.
Haha, I had exact the same experience with my old Mavic CrossMax Enduro UST rim brake version. Impossible to mount or dismount the tire and even if the UST worked nice and it actually allowed you to run at much lower tire pressure my rear end started to leak after a year and after 8h(at work) it was flat. But back then UST was advertised as sealant less system. Having to use it now makes it no different than any other ghetto ust or tubeless system.
What about conti tyres going on and off with this rim?
GP4000IIs work but with a tube.
The Mavic UST system is specificity built to work with Mavic tires.. ruclips.net/video/ALVtgcY1YeM/видео.html
Jérôme well of course
All I'm asking here is how much of a pain in the neck is it to get conti tyres on this rim. In the past I've felt like I needed hulk hands to get contis on Mavic rims.
Its conti. You need hulk hands for all the rims if it is conti. Conti mtb tyres tho can be install and removed with only hands with ease.
I've broken tire levers on Hutchinson tires set up tubeless on Dura Ace wheels. Frustrating. Hopefully this Mavic set up is more evolved and user friendly.
These tires are excellent in winter 0 puncture ... But as soon as temperature goes up the rubber softens and gets multiple cut ... The mavic sealant is useless and you can't use any sealant with these tires... I ruined the rear one with Giant sealant. It started sweating then blistering after a couple of weeks. the first blister was in the thread I still could use the tire... The second was partly in the sidewall, it burst and the casing became visible.
I am using the Hutchinson sealant with the front tire it seems to be working fine. Hutchinson manufactures the tires for Mavic
Update: the tire sweated the sealant out and the latex dried up in the tire + two blisters
I went back to clinchers
Will Mavic make these in 28's ?? Thanks!
They already do.
And they are very nice tires. I have Mavic Open Pro UST rims with the Mavic Yksion tires and love 'em
Pirelli Cinturato Velo TLR on the rear Wheel 👌
Nice review. Would you race crits on em?
Dear Mike Cotti, like your videos very much, but could you please talk a little bit slower? There are a lot of viewers w. English not as a first language. Большое спасибо! Keep on producing such good and informative content.
Good point. You can, however, go to the "gear icon" in the RUclips video (bottom right corner) and change (slow down) the playback speed. I imagine this should help you out a great deal
Thank you for your help!
Road tubeless is OK until you get puncture that wont seal, then you get to deal with sealant all over your hands and bike. Plus road tubeless wont let you run more than 100 psi more than that creates a chance you will blow the tire off the rim. (some say over 90 psi).
Schwalbe Pro 1 Tubeless can be inflated to 120PSI. Not sure I would ever go back to running over 100PSI in a tyre again as the comfort and speed of lower tyre pressures is well proven. A 25mm tubeless setup at 80 Front & 85 Rear (80kg rider) is faster and more comfortable over any surface rougher than a velodrome, in my opinion.
Yes schwalbe have done the most r&d in to Road tubeless, 120 psi can be achieved ( if your doing a 10 mile TT ) but 90 feels same as aproxx 110 on a conti 4000 II but with better road holding, cornering, comfort, etc. Had great results with the schwalbe Pro one tubeless - should you have a Big slash or cut and the sealant cannot hold pressure, let me tell you, a normal inter tube tyre - say a conti 4000 would be knackered as a hole this size will mean the inner tube will hearneate Out from the inside, at the roadside with a tyre and a tube set up and with a hole this Big you will be lucky for either an inner tube patch ( if you have a puncture kit with you ) or a spare piece of inner tube inside the tyre to get you home and stop the inner tube Bulging Out when your replace it, Again your in a difficult spot either with tubeless or with a tyre and tube at this point, Tubeless offer so many benefits when riding, far less punctures, a lack of pinch flats, and feel more confident of going downhill fast with far more confidence, also there far superior on Strada bianchi / gravel and anything that could be considered off road or shitty rough roads. Also thorns, flint, glass, shards sharp stuff that puts holes in Tyres - tubeless deals with this in its stride. Cannot speak for the other road tubeless offerings on the market, such as Hutchinson, vittoria, etc...
this post starts off a bit negative about tubeless but ends up being very positive - once you’ve ridden tubeless YOU WILL NOT GO BACK 😂
80-90 on a Schwalb is perfect
Why would you want more than 100psi? Thinner harder tyres offer no performance gain over softer wider tyres.
Andrew Podmore I have read many people have tried it, then the sealant doesn’t work and they are stuck with trying to fix a mess. So go back to tubes. The only reason a clincher doesn’t work that well with a tube and sealant in, is the butyl tubes don’t seal well with sealant whilst latex tubes do. I run tubulars (latex tubes in) with 30mls of sealant and get incredible reliability. Yes it doesn’t fix every puncture. But using tubular, no burping, no risk of blowing a tyre of the rim, the tyre rim combination is lighter, you can ride on a flat tubular tyre (slowly), you can ride them at a low or high pressure, if you get a blow out the tyre doesn’t leave the rim and the failing overheating brake track with 80 psi behind is a non issue as there is no pressure on the rim!. Tubulars maybe old school, but I still see manufacturers fluffing around trying to make other systems work. Tubeless is very good for MTB as the sealant works better at lower pressures, but for road tyres it is not as reliable. I will stick to my tubulars thanks Mavic.
Enjoyed watching. *What is the life of the sealant?*
about 3-6 months if you just leave it. I always replace a little bit every time I puncture because you lose some when you get one.
Rick Harker wut?
It completely depends on two things. Sealant brand and where you live. Aka geography. Mostly sealant brand. Wtb sealant can dry up much faster than stans.
Hi Mike. Suppose you don't want to ride with sealant. Can you put in an ordinary patch from the inside of the tire? This would seem to provide a much more durable seal than sealant, and allow you to use the tire for a longer period of time. I am aware of the mountain bike repair kits mentioned below by Torkel, but I don't think there is enough thickness in a road tire for those plugs to work properly.
Second, unrelated question: How is it that when you record your videos and you are talking whilst riding, there is absolutely no noise from the wind? You sound exactly like you do in this video, but I know from riding outside that at high speeds the wind can be loud enough not to be able to hear someone behind you.
I have the same setup as Mike. The Mavic tires are 'Tubeless ready' and not 'Tubeless'... if you are not familiar with this distinction in mountain bike tires, the difference is that a tubeless tire has specially shaped beads that lock onto the rim but the tire's casing has an additional built-in layer that seals the air in, usually a layer of butyl, same material as standard tubes. In those, sealant just serves the purpose of fixing eventual punctures and is optional. Tubeless Ready tires like the Yksion Pro UST have the same beads that lock securely onto the rims but not a 100% sealed casing so while you can install them without sealant and they will inflate, they rely on sealant to keep the air in, without sealant, they lose their pressure too quickly. I first installed mine without sealant just to test but in my experience, they lose pressure too fast to go on anything but a very short ride. Why would they not add the sealed layer then? It makes tires heavier but perhaps more importantly, also much stiffer so the ride quality, confort, grip and rolling resistance all suffer... and given that most people use sealant even with fully sealed tubeless tires, I think the ride quality and weight saving makes sense so it's no surprise that fully sealed tubless tires have almost vanished from the market. But punctures that are fixed with sealant are usually a permanent fix anyway. For many, you don't even notice you flatted by the time your tires wear out.
I have the Mavic Allroad 30mm and just repaired a puncture with a Velox internal patch (and glue) that the mavic sealant would not permanently seal as it normally would with a smaller cut in the tyre. Easy to do. I have had less success with the external plugs but they at least got me home. I did feel that the plug applicator was putting a bigger hole in the tyre than that made by the glass shard. Maybe some practice is required to get that right but it does work.
Mavic claim the tyres can be run tubeless without sealant. Obviously if you get a puncture you will need to repair the tyre somehow or put a tube in.
How about sealant clogging the valve ?
Major K Kong I have been running road tubeless for over 5 years in many combinations of rims and tires. I have gotten sealant in the valve. It is not a big problem until you change a tire. Then with a clogged valve you can’t get air in fast enough to inflate the tire. Make sure you have valves with a removable core. Just remove the core and clean out the valve, the tiniest bit of grease on the valve core will help it not get stuck if sealant gets on it. Almost a non-issue.
Always loved your COL Videos, very professionally done and you have a great voice. But my only small complaint. This is 2018 and could you please shoot them in 4K . Again love your work.. I like how mavic has taken the lead on the tubeless tire / wheel problem, and fixed it..
Ted lastname Hi Ted, I’ve shot all the latest Col videos in 4K so there are some online now and more to come. I’ve got a huge library I’m working through editing so still have many videos in 1080 still to put out. The main issue with 4K is how big the raw files are and how long it takes to work with the footage. It can easily take me 3 times longer to produce a video so I try to find the best compromise between quality and efficiency. Thanks for watching. Mike
Mavic have done some great work in mating the tyre to their rims. But it means you are locked into their combination, at least currently, and it still doesn’t solve all the problems with tubeless.
wayne proud very true. BUT they are leading the way. Hopefully other companys will follow..
How often do you need to refill with more sealant? With my mountain bike, I do it about once every other month... curious about road tubeless.
lifeline has recently launched a new sealant claiming it lasts the life of the tyre. the ingredients in it do not lump up.
It depends on the sealant. There are new ones that never dry out which I will be moving to once I use up all my Stan's: reviews.mtbr.com/frostbike-2018-finish-lines-new-sealant-that-never-dries-out
Thanks guys, didn't realize this new sealant was out there.
I just don’t get this tubeless thing. It is still a clincher with clincher problems. A tubular with sealant in (like a tubeless) is super reliable. It gets rid of all the clincher problems. You still need to carry a tube and a boot with a tubeless. With a tubular you carry a spare tyre. So what is the benefit?? If tubeless didn’t mean you needed a spare then it would be good. But sealant doesn’t always work and good luck putting a tube in with all that messy sealant.
As you dont need to glue the tyre on to your wheel. Tubeless will seal the vast majority of punctures you get, the wider ones you can use patches. If it doesn't work you can still just stick an inner tube in. There are other tubeless tyres that are easier to fit on. The benefit is that any small puncture will seal itself without you even noticing.
Anders Torger Thanks yes totally agree, but just two things;
1. I use tape (gave up glue years ago) and is easy with no mess.
2. Rolling resistance is in the realms of marginal gains, which in the industry is somewhat exaggerated. It also depends a lot on pressures and the roughness of the road, they are many variables in this equation of calculating rolling resistance, in my opinion ( i use to be a laboratory tester in the past) the differences are so small they are in the realms of the uncertainty of the measurement.
Also I just had a Vittoria corsa speed graphene tubular tyre on the rear of my bike with 30mls of stans in, run it to the carcass, no cuts, no punctures 1000km. Google this tyre, it is a strictly lightweight tubular recommended for racing only due to it being rated as fragile. I did general group rides and mostly commuting with it.
A tubular has all the other benefits of a tubeless and more as it is lighter tyre rim combination and doesn’t have the heat brake track issue as with clincher designs, why the pros still use them. Yes tubulars can work out slightly more expensive.. agreed, but when your buying carbon mavic rims and tyres I don’t think this is an issue. I still argue nothing new that has come along which is ground breaking and the trusty old tubular (including tube and clincher) will still be around for a while yet.
@@waynosfotos tubular tires are obsolete garbage
@@waynosfotos case in point: ruclips.net/video/LjUgz5FHR90/видео.html
Ten thousand words when 1000 might have done nicely.
No they dont work! What happens if the sealant will seal the hole and stop the air coming out but will also allow tiny little air bubbles overtime to seep out so you'll end up just with a tyre with a lot of slow punches and you'll be pumping it up quite a lot.
the mavic tires I rode so far weren't very durable and tended to pick up pebbles
Tom Holden Are you on the Yksion Pro UST Tom? So far I’ve found these to be super durable.
no, but I rode three different mavic wheelsets and the mavic tires they came with, they all picked up pebbles and nicked quite easily. And come on, you're no doubt selling product here and I bet you don't have to pay for any mavic product, soo.... I just wanted to warn paying customers. after all mavic just want to sell us their tires which will sure be more expensive than Conti 4000S
A very faded grading. Works well on high-contrast photos, not in videos.
Lose air over a week ?
I am thinking of changing to Mavic Ksyrium Elite UST tubeless but am worried about the fact that at 69 years old I tend to cycle very little in the depth of winter. Does the sealant solidify with lack of use? Do you just add more sealant without the necessity of cleaning out the old sealant ? I get my bike serviced once a year?
I also do a lot of long distance cycling and am planning to ride London to Valencia. The thought of dealing with a puncture on a remote road in the Pyrenees is worrying me. Any advice would be appreciated.
Peter Phillips
Ask col collective
With my mountain bike yes . Sealant drys and in hot weather more so . All ways need to top up and on mountain bike I can be more lazy because of low pressure .
Lots off work .
I havent run mine long enough to find out if they do that yet. Although I was in a bad accident during a race and broke my collarbone and some ribs, so I was off the bike for 3 months. My bike was on the work stand and I was riding the smart trainer, so I did spin the tires around every couple of days. Recently got back on the road and had a puncture, sealant did it's job fine. There is a new Finish line product that is suppose to last the life of the tire and not dry up, I think it's non latex based. www.finishlineusa.com/products/tubeless-tire-sealant/sealant Haven't tried this yet, but looks interesting. Overall, I'm extremely happy with the Mavic UST system. I've only been running it for about 6 months, but have had Zero flats. With my GP4000SII tires I would have had at least 3-4. (usually it's about 1 a month) I do ride about 5-6 days a week though.
Brady Poirier
yes sealants are getting better even newer STANS and MUCKOFF have new products coming out
Tubeless hmm, beware DO NOT run them close to the max allowed inflation. There is not enough warning about this.
I had a tyre explode off the rim which ended up in a traumatic dislocation of the knee (broken tibia, ACL, PCL and MCL) - still on crutches 3 months later. Stick with tubes.
The Trouble with ‘Road Tubeless’
by Jan Heine
Posted on May 29, 2017
"There are more and more reports of tires blowing off the rims."
janheine.wordpress.com/2017/05/29/the-trouble-with-road-tubeless/
It's a bloody mess. The "improvements" on the bike are minimal in comparison. Mtb sure. Gravel maybe. Road? Next!
Tubeless is a nice idea that doesn't really work, mainly because of what is said in this video: if you have a small tear your tire (which does happen), you're in big trouble!! Messy and you have to carry a tube anyways. So stick with tube.
Of course it works. Yes, it's a good idea to carry a tube, but the whole point is that the chances of having to stop and use that tube are greatly reduced.
I get you point, but if I have to carry a tube, well, it is no longer a tubeless system, is it? Plus, tubeless tires, with the sealant, are heavier (plus extra weight of aback up tube). And if you have to use that tube, it gets messy my friend. Cheers
If there's no tube in the tyre, of course it's tubeless! Plus it's lighter, not heavier. Schwalbe Pro One tubeless at 255g plus sealant will weigh less than Schwalbe One at 225g plus tube. As for mess, have you ever changed a tube and still had clean hands?
specialized s works tubeless is 240g i ve had zero punctures. i still take a tube with me and a tubeless patch kit as if i get a bad tear with tyre will not reseat without a track pump. only issue is these are very expensive
Doesn't really work?? After a year of steady riding on DuraAce C24s with Schwalbe Pro Ones and nary a puncture (at least none I was aware of) and the added benefit of riding at 80-85 psi on 25's for more comfort I find out I've got it all wrong! I was flatting about once a week prior to going tubeless on the crappy roads I have to ride.
Can you please color grade your video? I find it really tyring to watch such a flat video. Cool video though.
What on earth was this guy doing with his early day setting up?
Less talkie, more showie.
Answer: it doesn't
Talks way too long just to show us a simple thing. I still don’t believe you of what to do after you have a flat. You have to carry an extra tire, really?!?!
ffs lose the head attire your not a gangster are you