MK4 VW 1.8t PCV System Hose Replacement
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- Опубликовано: 25 июл 2024
- This Steve's Garage is a brief how-to on replacing the PCV hoses on a Volkswagen 1.8t engine. The engine in this video is an AWP in a 2002 Jetta. Other MK4 1.8t engine codes may differ slightly from this video, but it's still the same basic method to replacing your failed PCV hoses.
I installed the MK4 1.8t silicone PCV hose kit from 034 Motorsports. I highly recommend this kit for your 1.8t PCV hoses as the silicone will never break down like the OEM rubber, and the kit has the lower plastic elbow molded in, so you never have to worry about that breaking like the OEM VW PCV system. If you have any questions about replacing your MK4 VW 1.8t PCV hoses please feel free to ask, I will answer them as best I can!
This video does not include replacement of the PCV hose that runs from the intake manifold to the lower hose. I did make an additional video that you can find in the Instructional playlist. To view part two, click here • MK4 VW 1.8t PCV Hose a...
This video is meant as a guide and not an in depth instructional. This process is not difficult, but as with fixing anything on a car, it helps to have basic automotive knowledge. I'm not responsible for anything mistakes made during install.
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Chapters:
0:00 - Intro
0:17 - MK4 VW 1.8t PCV Hose Removal
1:17 - 034 Motorsports Silicone PCV Hose Installation 
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mk4 Content it's amazing!
Thank you! I've got more in the queue. Just need to make my way through editing it. Glad this old video is still helping people!
That hose elbow that connects to the oil filter housing loves to break when these cars get old. It is best to plan on replacing it when you replace the other rubber components down there.
Yea, all the PCV stuff should be done at once to avoid chasing hoses and problems. If you go with the silicone kit, the elbow is all one part with the lower hose.
I have an 05 gti 1.8 and my pcv system is different. I have 2 lines that come off the valve cover, one big and one small. The small leads to the 1 pc pcv T pipe
Great video. Did the billet adapter fit into the breather housing securely? I've seen comments that this is sometimes loose even with the retainer clip installed.
Had a difficult time getting that lower PCV hose out. C clip was a struggle and the hose was broken. Had to grab on to what little was left. Pulled metal inner ring out first, then the broken plastic end and O-ring. Vacuumed out the hole to capture broken bits of plastic and sludge. I think this will fix cold start sound I made a video of. Must have been little bits of broken plastic floating around in the PCV system.
***** Your video was a big help. Always nice to see the job first so you know what to expect. It's not my car, I'm helping a friend out. It started with the timing belt idler pulley going into self destruct mode. Had to change all the valves. Then you see what else is old and falling apart.
My partner has the 1.8t 20v octavia , same issue on hers. The bottom elbow just broke into pieces.. nightmare getting the new one to fit
There is a copper ring inside my crankcase breather. Is that part of the old hose?
does the fat hose that you connect with the c clamp / c clip gotta be a tight fit? bought a 034 kit and that hose is loose even when I back the clamp :(
Been a while but maybe this will help someone else. You have to push the fat end of the hose as far in as it can go sometimes using a flat blade screwdriver and hammer. once it's all the way in, install the c clip all the way in and it should hold and not be loose. Hope this helps.
What site did you order the kit from?
Where did your get that hose from?
Thank for the help bro
You got it. I'm glad this old video is still helpful!
On the replacement hose there is where it hooks up next to the valve cover then runs down to the part that uses the clip to go to the block but in the picture on the website there is another hole on the tube. where does that go?
Steve Valente nope think I figured it out. It goes to the section with the check valve to the bottom of the intake manifold
my upper hose is all melted ... I need to replace them and am thinking about going with this kit. what did it cost you in total to do this?
Sorry I missed this, the RUclips comments were messed up for a while, so I never saw this. I don't remember the price, but I know it was under $200.
Hey, is this the "BREATHER HOSE KIT, EARLY MKIV VOLKSWAGEN 1.8T AWV/AWW/AWP, REINFORCED SILICONE, because there's two of them from that website, do you know which specific one that is? Thanks.
+Steve Valente well mine is 2003 vw Jetta 1.8t AWP so is it the same?
I have a 03 audi TT -
Model 3007 did not fit. Do I need 3006?
You wouldn't happen to know what those 3 lines that go under the metal plate you remove are called/for? I broke the couplers for all three and need to replacement but not sure what they are
A stupid question but do you think a local garage would have these or generic couplers laying around? I can't find them anywhere or what they're called. Or a diagram of a 1.8t
Hey sorry I missed this comment, the RUclips notifications have been messed up so I missed this. The lines underneath the plate are the EGR lines, VW part number is 06A145691CB. I tried replacing them with generic couplers and hoses, but it didn't work. If possible, I would check with garages, or even a junk yard. If you can't find them there, I'd order the whole new bundle from ECS or UROTUNING. Let me know if you have any other questions, my apologies for the late reply!
bought a 34motosports kit but I was just wondering something, hopefully you can reply. when you put the c clamp back does it have to hold the hose tight? cause I have a little wiggle on that hose and the c clamp is a bit loose. let me know pls
Sorry I missed this, the RUclips comments have been messed up, so I never noticed this. My C-Clamp is tight, but the hose it a bit lose. One thing to make sure is that the hose did seat properly so the clamp is holding it in. I thought mine was seated, placed the c-clamp in, and it was actually underneath the hose. Let me know if you have any other questions, my apologies for missing this comment!
Make sure to push the c clip is pushed in all the way
Hey whats the hose on the right routed to next to the dip stick
+ brandon belfield The one with the elbow that goes into the block? That's the lower PCV line. If you mean the ribbed plastic hose, that's for the secondary air intake. Let me know if helped or you have more questions!
I have a 2003 golf and one of these hoses is all cracked up and broken but I don’t know what the hose is called in order to replace it I think it’s this hose but mine looks a little different
If anyone wants to help me out let me know
@@absolutryhard4115 So if one is cracked, chances are they're all cracked, or all almost in need of repair. If it were me, I'd replace all of them at the same time. The year, and engine matter when buying the hoses. If you have your year, and the correct engine code, it should be easy to find the hoses. Do you know what engine your car has in it?
It seems very different from AWM 1.8T passat. Can you help to provide any information on that one? also the pcv valve.
Thank you.
+Ruijie Zhou Mine is AWM 1.8T. It's not hard to remove the PCV valve. You will need to unscrew coolant reservoir, leave hose attached, and remove wire connector on the bottom of the reservoir. Flip it out of way, you can now reach PCV. Use a long Philip screwdriver and loose the clamp. Reach the PCV hose and pull it out. Be careful not let clamp drop and you may need to wiggle it or use a flat head screwdriver to help loose it. Mine was full of gunk and hard tar.
I late bought whole set of hoses and replaced them.
Wear strong gloves.
Tom Wang Thank you！
My AWM 1.8T looks completely different that this. Most of my vacuum hoses are fucked lol I took them off to replace them, now I'm fucked again bc I can remember which go where. It's on a 02 Passat 1.8T
The PCV valve you refer to at the beginning of the video is actually the Pressure Relief Valve aka. hocky puck valve. THAT IS NOT THE PCV VALVE. The PCV valve in under the intake manifold.
Some engines refer to them as Pressure Control Valves, Pressure Relief Valves, or Pressure Regulator Vales. At the end of the day it's still a valve on your Positive Crankcase Ventilation system, and on a 1.8t, it's nicknamed the hockey puck valve.
Steve, we bought a 2011 vw jetta and had to replace ignition and key immediately. The part was ordered from vw in Germany. Then we started having issues with starting and dying and severe jerking. We've taken it to foreign car shop and they couldn't fix it, to a dealer who replaced computer and replaced many parts. It's still doing it. The code shown is vacuum leak. We cleaned MAF SENSOR, SHOULD WE REPLACE IT? HELP!!!
You can try a leakdown test to identify a vacuum leak. You can also spray carb cleaner around vacuum lines while the car is running to see if the idle changes. If it changes, you know that hose is leaking. I would start with looking for a vacuum leak in the rubber hoses. The car is old enough that it could have developed some cracks in the hoses. I would personally hold of on replacing the MAF until you've ruled out other possibilities.
im getting a p0010 code camshaft positin actuator circuit bank 1 i tested the sensor its seems fine also getting misfire cylinder 1 and 2 sometimes 3 and 4 i checked spark all good checked injectors all good can the Crankcase Breather Hose Pipes make all those problems if theres a leak
Circuit bank sounds like it could be an electrical problem, unless you just replaced the timing belt, or it needs to to be replaced. You could be a tooth off, or the belt could be stretched to the point that you're throwing a code. Also, how did you test the sensor?
If you're getting misfires and the plugs look fine, what about the coil packs? When was the last time those were replaced? Also, the ignition coil harness can fail, especially with how old these cars are getting. Check your coils and the wiring leading to them.
You can check the PCV system for leaks by going over the hoses and checking for cracks in hoses. You can also see if the idle changes when you pull the dipstick out. If it begins to run poorly, your PCV is most likely good. If it stays the same, you probably have a leak somewhere.
In my experience a failing PCV typically shows itself with reduced performance or oil consumption, not a CEL for the cam position sensor.
@Steve's Garage I seen a video on RUclips how you can test a sensor without a special tool basically you connect one lead to the negative of the battery and a positive lead of the multimeter to the Signal wire that comes from the camshaft sensor if you get 6 7 8 volts it's good and if it's at 0v or 12v it's bad I don't know if it true tho also I did a test again It's 1st and 2nd cylinder with the miss fire. 3 and 4 run fine if I disconnect the 3 and 4 Weirdly 1 and 2 keeps the engine going with the miss fire. Camshaft position sensor stays on no matter what even after clearing codes switched coils around same issues
@@asaflores43 If you haven't done coil packs I'd probably do those. The standard 1.8t coil packs are known to not last.
As far as the cam position sensor, if your belt is correct and you're not a tooth off or something, I think I'd probably replace that too.
It's hard to diagnose over a comment section, and I don't like throwing parts without true diagnostics, but that's what it seems like to me.
@@StevesGarage so i replaced the hoses no more misfire engine runs nice now but im still getting camshaft positin actuator circuit bank 1 engine takes a couple of cranks then starts so now i have to figure that one out thanks for your tips and info really helping
@@asaflores43 No problem, happy to help. Glad changing the hoses got rid of the misfire.
@ 1:44 those 2 twin hoses, what are they? one of them snapped on me. Cant find out what the hose is called
I just searched for about an hour, including googling the part numbers on the hose themselves. I cannot find the name of the part either! I know it's part of the brake booster vacuum lines. Did the Y connection crack, or the hoses after it?
@@StevesGarage I think after the hoses, cause its good all the way through except the under part of the metal plate, the left one is just loose looks snapped off & my best bet it to just unscrew that plate & look from under cause even after looking with my phone cam checking the part number too, searched for while online & i just cannot seem to find it either. But brake booster vacuum lines, thats a clue so thanks lol!
i appreciate the reply btw
@@06GCoupe If it's some of the hoses under the plate it could be the EGR hoses, part number 06A145691CB. That one number encompasses the entire mess of hoses under that metal plate on the front of the intake manifold. It's expensive, but easier to just replace the whole thing than trying to piece it all together, especially with the location it's in.
Having issues getting the C clamp off any advice?
It really is a pain. My best method was a long screw driver to get down there and be able to slip it out.
What part number is it for the hose that connects directly to the underneath of the manifold?
Depends on which engine you have, but I think the part you're talking about is 06A 103 221BM on AWP engines.
Thanks. AWP. Will have to take some pics. I do have that hose but seems too short. Last dumb question...for the life of me cannot get the new OEM secondary pump hoses that go directly into pump to secure/clip. The air intake side clips right in, cannot get the other 2 to properly secure. Very hard to get hands around anything down there. Any suggestions?
@@seanrobinson1780 No dumb questions here! Honestly, that line is PITA. I had disconnected it once and when I went to connect the lower side I didn't realize I had failed to connect it until I went back in for another repair. Have you tried going in from the bottom? You'd have to remove the belly pan, but the pump is right there once you do, it might be easier to access it that way.
I installed that hose but at the time the car does not run when trying to run it has like pulls and loses strength you know what the problem is
You could have a vacuum or boost leak somewhere else, or a different problem all together. Unless the PCV system is clogged, it shouldn't pose a problem to the car running.
Where do you put the little 'one direction air valve' that came with the kit? Do I not use it?
Kurt Mankenberg that's for the small hose that runs under the intake manifold. If you look at my other video for installing that hose, you'll see where it goes. It's a simple install, just a 1 for 1 replacement.
Hmm that's exactly what I did...but after I did the install and drove for an hour, the engine idle drops every 15 seconds or so...the idle was perfect before the install even though the stock pcv was busted all over the place. I wonder what I could've fucked up
Kurt Mankenberg could it be a different issue that's now popped up because of the new PCV system? If it was a problem with the check valve or lines, it would probably run poorly all the time.
Not sure it could be.... I'm trying to figure it out. Maybe the computer hasn't adapted to having no air leaks for the first time in years...it could need a tuning
Kurt Mankenberg That's possible. If you wanted to, you could disconnect and reconnect the battery to "reset" the ECU. Are your plugs and coils good? That could cause the engine to hiccup.
could you post a link to where you purchased those hose kit?
The kit is purchased from 034 motorsports, it isn't hard to find on their website, it's very popular.
Anyone have any suggestions for putting the c clip back in?
If you have a long pair of needle nose it can help!
Thanks for the advise. I ended up using some grease on the top of the hose fitting which helped me get the clip back in.
Great video man! ------ PLEASE let me know what the trick is to remove the hose connection type like the one at the 1:25 mark of this video? (It is plastic and has grooves on 2 sides of it). I wrestle with these on my VW everytime, and just finally broke one of the frikn things!
Can i just put it back on and tape it securely with some duct tape or will i have to replace the entire hose now or do they sell the connectors?
Anyway-------I would like to kick the German that come up with that type of connector right in his frikn keester! :-)
Hey sorry I missed your comment, RUclips was messed up and I just noticed this! I assume you're taking about the hard plastic hose that goes to the SAI pump? If thats the case you have to pinch the ends to let it release. It can be a real pain, but I've disconnected it a few times without issue. If you break it, I think the whole hose would have to be replaced. Let me know if you have any other questions!
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