I have been using 0.25% tretinoin since my early 20’s. Originally it was for PCOS-caused acne. It sorted out the lesions and clogging pretty damn quick and I stuck with it - AND sunscreen of course. I’m in my 50’s now and apart from my pregnancies, I have used it every day. My complexion is much firmer and clearer than most women my age and basically, they’re going to have to tear it from my cold, dead claws when I’m dead.
@@Nurse_Lucy sorry just saw this! I was just using dermaticas compound formula which I actually loved for the enhanced azelaic acid but I was curious if the tret was doing anything since (1 the treatments expired within like 2 months and (2 I was able to use quite a bit without dryness / flakiness (even tho my skin is super dry normally and esp dry with generic tret). I’ve since switched to generic tret and I feel like my skins making use of it better than it did w dermatica (tho that could definitely just be in my head).
@@SamFerro Hi, thank you for sharing this! I have started the Skin + Me compounded formula, and I feel like the added azelaic acid and niacinamide could be irritating my skin + making the tret less effective. I'm thinking to switch to pure tret, where did you get yours from? And what strength are you using? Thanks!
@melissatranfield4054 I have nothing to do with this comment, but I found it interesting. I get mine from nurx it's about the same amount of money but straight from the pharmacy.
you are one of my favorite creators. translating this scientific information into easily understood content is no small feat and you seem to do it effortlessly.
@@LabMuffinBeautySciencethat is why I love watching your content as well. Having been in the field, Micro and Genetics background, I know full well that knowing content and delivering it in a digestible way, to those without the same background (people are often so specialized that going even a step outside of their field can feel like foreign language acquisition) while delivering a conclusion that appeals to common sense, rather than manipulation and fear mongering, is rarer than anyone realizes. Plus, the hilarious cutaways, I watch for the hilarious cutaways too!😂
I live in a place where 0.025% tret is over-the-counter and my skin is very tolerant to It... Using Tretinoin this past year has been great for the appearance and health of my skin. Never dealt with problems related to irritation... And my acne is 99% gone 😺
I switched from a compounded tretinoin from Curology to a generic prescription tretinoin cream. There definitely is a difference. My dark spots are fading quicker with the generic tretinoin cream, even without the added tranexamic acid and niacinamide that was contained in the compounded formula from Curology.
I use a similar service from Australia called Software. I used compounded 20% azelaic acid, and another formula with 0.0185% tretinoin. Both products contained niacinamide in a hyaluronic acid base. I’ve since moved on to generic brands (OTC 20% AA and prescription 0.05% tret) and there’s a lot less redness, warming of the skin, and irritation. My tret is 0.05 now which is almost 3x the concentration of my compounding formula and there’s no irritation for me.
I’ve had the same experience with Curology vs generic tretinoin, since switching to the generic tretinoin my skin is so much calmer and I’ve actually been able to increase the concentration of tret with no irritation. My skin was constantly irritated and sensitive while using curology.
Michelle: "Guys, *STOP* bullying hyaluronic acid 😡😡😡 they are a *good* little active ingredient and they're trying their best and I am *proud* of them 😡😡😡😡"
On the subject of hyaluronic acid, it would be very useful to know if, in a dry climate, it takes moisture from your skin. Would you be able to advise on that?
I started with tretinoin at the age of 16 due to acne. After 5 years I took a break but then returned to tretinoin until I was about 30 when I used oral isotretinoin for 10 months. After my acne was done I had read so much about retinoids that I chose to use them as anti aging. I tried different types of retinoids but went back to using prescription tretinoin five times a week, just a pea size and I moisturise to high heaven. You are absolutely right, the package is extremely important, I store them in the right temperature and follow the instructions on the package. I am 49 and I look like a porcelain doll. Of course SPS 50+ at least 2-3 daily. I am no doctor but i have been reading about retinoids for 30 years and I know you are giving the best and most relevant information. Michelle you are an SPF angel sent to us. Thank you.
😂😂 I had the same response and posted the exact same comment as you! Since you beat me by 22 hours, I deleted my post and gave your comment a thumbs up.
Crazy good video Michelle. I often "feel" like medical professionals and researchers aren't always on the same page, and this was an excellent explanation without going into "doctors don't know what they're talking about" territory.
I used Curology's "custom" formula for about 6 months and then switched to the regular tube of tretinion. My Curology formula had 0.035% tretinion, and the regular tube was only 0.025%. I have to say that my experience made me feel that the tretinoin on its own was more powerful despite being a lower percentage, because I was getting the initial purge and sensitivity all over again when I made the switch! This does explain it, thanks. Curology also presents a 25g container as a "2 month supply", when my doctor prescribes me a 20g tube of tretinoin as a one month supply...no wonder I always ran out of the Curology formula weeks before I was supposed to despite using the amount recommended! They do this on purpose, surely, because you can request your shipment early. More money for them.
@@miss_jessTretinoin typically comes in either a 20g or 45g tube. I'm willing to bet that yours is 45g. If yours really is 25g I'd be wondering how on earth you could stretch that to a year. I can't imagine it being enough to be effective or applied evenly. I use a 20g one in about 6 weeks, but it's the amount I'm "allowed" to get per month. I have it in a low-ish percentage that I tolerate well and I put it on my neck as well as my face. Not a huge amount, but not the "pea sized" amount recommended for beginners.
Well, this video gave some clarity for my experience with Tret for a year. I tried all the tricks recommended to ease in and prevent irritation. For months, my skin was just very inflamed, irritated and dry. My skin never got used to Tret. I felt like a wasted a whole year. I have carefully tried the Cerave retinol and so far so good. I do have East Asian skin and often have reactions to things I try in addition to that. Tret is just too harsh for me no matter what I try.
That was me w/ Adapalene... I'm considering trying it again, since I started Testosterone & my skin is more oily/congested than it was before. But it's definitely a gamble.
yes, physicians often don't even know what pharmaceutical technology and biopharmacy are. pharmacists are the people that learn every little detail about it over years at the university.
I just finished my MSc in biochemistry and I have always loved all things makeup & skincare… your channel is a mix of my two favorite things to geek out about! 💕
You are amazing, tysm for the thoroughness and honesty here 🙏 I used tret for 4 years and it ended up leading to an outbreak of perioral dermatitis. Now my skin is so sensitive and reactive that almost any product can trigger the PD again (as well as other conditions now too) and it's SO hard to manage and treat, even with antibiotics. I wish people were better informed about the pros and cons of different actives, there's so much mystification in this industry.
I sympathise with you. I didn't use tret for as long as you but I tried it (0.05% once a week for 4 weeks) and I now have rosacea and the skin on my face is extremely sensitive. I regret it so much. My poor skin barrier 😔
@@sheridanbeverley9173Tretinoin obliterated and aged tf out of my skin, I even got a dry/raw patch that left a terrible scar. This all went away slowly once I stopped using it. If you live in a super dry climate and don’t have great water quality, please do not use tret. If you can’t provide the hydration that your skin needs, tret will make your lines and wrinkles WORSE.
As a pharmacist who worked next to a dermatology clinic, I really love your videos! And you're 100% right. Pharmacists here have the right to choose and adjust the base and vehicles. Unfortunately since parabens fell out of favor and most bases (other than very hydrophilic ones) don't have them, the microbial stability is very limited to 3-4 months like you've said. We used an unguator for compounding, but even then you have to manually homogenize the powders and there is no chance you can get them to a fine enough particle size by hand for the best effect, especially with ingredients that require it (most formulations here are suspensions). A few times we've had salicylic acid creams where the crystals didn't dissolve properly and it was a nightmare to deal with.
I am Scandinavian and very pale. I always thought I had a bit sensitive skin but when I started with retinol and then switched to adapalene a few months later, I never felt any irritation, nor got any redness. I didn't really read much about "and I more or less slapped it on like moisturizer" (avoiding eyes) and then added another layer of moisturizer cocktails from hadalabo and cerva (two of my favourite brands) and at the end sealed it all in with a good layer of vaseline to make it penetrate deeply and went to bed. Still no irritation ever and my skin became 10 years younger within a year. I have now dialed down on the adapalene, mainly because it seems a bit of a waste to use that much, but honestly never had as much as an itch or a red spot.
Adapalene is so good! My skin reacted badly to tretinoin then I tried Differin (I had acne so I needed something). Differin changed the game! 3 months later, not much acne anymore, no irritation or redness and glowy skin!! I once couldn't believe my skin texture after I had washed it and hadn't applied my moisturiser yet. I looked at it and it seemed to have a "shiny" film and I was so weirded out because I thought I hadn't washed my face well. It turned out that was the texture of my skin LOL, very smooth and glowy even without products on. It's wild. I don't ever plan on giving up Differin especially since it's easily available here in the UK through a pharmacist.
I started with tretinoin, but had too much irritation. Used adapalene for about two years with no irritation. Simple skincare routine. Switched to tretinoin about two months ago with zero irritation too minimal irritation and purging. The greatest part about adapalene - you can pick it up at any drug store.
Thank you for this scientific deep dive. I use a prescription service (Agency}. I have used prescription tretinoin for years and constantly battled irritation. My formula has Tretinoin, Niacinimide, tranexamic acid and Panthenol. If there are formulas out there that are separate for the $30 a month I payI would love to hear about it. Also I got so tired of layering all these different products on every night and many times would quit before completing the seven steps needed. With the Agency I use a moisturizer and their formula and it simplifies things. Love your scientific take on everything
Hi Michelle, have you ever looked into any of the data/research around the question of tretinoin and/or retinol being harmful to meibomium gland cells in the eyelid? I realize you are not an eye doctor but your ability to understand research and translate it to the general public is so appreciated. ❤ I understand MB glands do wither with age on their own, and theres a body of thought that only oral isotretinoin has been shown to damage MB glands, but theres still the question/uncertainty around the possibility of topical reintoids doing the same, even if not directly applied to the eye area, and theres one video ive seen on yt from an eye doc that advises extreme caution and some eye docs recommend not applying to the face at all. A review of what literature we do have on the topic would be an epic video if you ask me! Especially since retinoids are becoming soo popular .
I have really sensitive skin, so it was hard to find an acne solution that worked for me. Tretinoin was surprisingly much more tolerable and effective for me than Duac and BHAs.
That explains perfectly why my Saint Derm (healed my acne with isotretinoine and supervised the long scar removal process) is so strict when it comes to the treti brand. It' s OTC in my country so he always insists: "IT MUST BE FERRER LABS. MUST MEANS MUST, I KNOW WHAT I' M TALKING ABOUT". I' m gonna share your vid with him so he can nod in peace for 17 mins😉. Thank you for your hard work. Happy Whateveryoucelebrate🧛🏻♀️🖤
I’ve been using all types of retinol for over 10 years. I started with pharmacy brands then moved very slowly through all the Australian retail products getting stronger and more expensive. I’ve used retrieve trentinoin 0.05% for every second day for two years, it’s aud $65 for 9-10 months supply. I was looking for anti aging (negligible improvement) but for me the skin smoothing, reduced pigmentation, less single pimples and reduced sensitivity to lots of other things keeps me using it. ( I had very reactive skin, now I don’t, something I hadn’t heard about in retinol journeys) I never buffer, I apply every second day and used tiny tiny amounts until I was used to a product but still can’t retinol everyday without a light flake. I used Paula’s choice 1% retinol happily for a long time until they reformulated with dimethicone which blocked my pores gradually causing pimples. I should have gone to trentinoin sooner, it has saved me a lot of money.
I started the same way as you 9 years ago, and second to the experience that my skin is far less reactive now and just generally happier. Actually, it IS talked about - quite a few specialists say that tret or any retinol really is making your skin over time thicker so-to-say, and this results with much less problematic skin. Thats why also tret is suggested for rosacea, but of course only introduces slowly over time from light concentration to stronger. I started with 0.3 over the counter retinol, now using 0.05% tret every 3rd day and retinal in between.
I have just started on Retrieve 0.5% . Am now using three times a week and so far, no issues. Really anticipating the journey. Costs me a lot less than the retinaldehyde serum I was using, too!
I LOVE hyaluronic acid, and I say this as someone in my late 30s with acne-prone, oily skin who is VERY picky with my moisturizers because everything seems to either make me greasy or break me out. I also LOVE Tretinoin. Both are a must in my very basic skincare routine. In the evening, I cleanse my face with a gentle 2% AHA face wash, then I apply pure Hyaluronic acid serum on damp skin (even around my eyes ), and after that, I apply Tretinoin 0.05% cream (obviously not around my eyes). That’s it. I don’t even use eye cream because I’m prone to milia. If I need extra moisture around my eyes, around my mouth or anywhere else, I use Cetaphil’s lightweight face and body moisturizer for sensitive skin, as the last step, it’s the only budget-friendly yet effective moisturizer that’s worked for me since I was in college. In the morning, I wash my face with water, and the only product I apply is a broad-spectrum SPF30 oil-control sunscreen (Cetaphil or Differin brand). I rarely use make up other than lipstick and pencil eyeliner…full face make-up with concealer, foundation, eyeshadow, mascara and blush are reserved for special occasions, and I make sure to take them off with micellar water before cleansing. It’s been that way for almost a year now and my skin looks fantastic, I rarely break out unless it’s PMS time, and I have even skin tone, my pores look tight, no blackheads, no whiteheads, no fine lines. I only use Tretinoin every other night now. My skin doesn’t tolerate vitamin C, so I make sure to just get plenty of it through my diet. Side-note: cleaning up my diet, daily exercise, drinking enough water, eating plenty of fruits, veges, enough protein and healthy fats, along with completely cutting out sugar and processed fats like vegetable oil has worked wonders as well, both inside and out.
omg this is just what I needed! Using 0,05% tretinoin rn but it‘s just waay too irritating. I can‘t find 0,025% either here in Germany but I wasn‘t too sure about the cosmetic retinoid. Can you maybe make a compilation of which cosmetic products (actual product) you find effective? thankyou!
I have dry eyes and feel scared of worsening my meibomian gland shrinkage with retinols. You should do a video about the best bang for your buck skincare that isn’t retinol based! Thank you!!!
also had worsening dry eyes from using retinoids! Now I use tretinoin as short contact therapy (basically put it on for an hour in the evening then wash off with cleanser, do regular skincare after). that way I don't risk it getting anywhere near my eyes when sleeping. My dry eye hasn't been triggered since!
I’ve been on retinol for about 5 years now, and absolutely nothing I’ve used has come close to the results I’ve gotten. I definitely had a purging phase, but I’ll never go back.
Thank you to yourself and all experts who helped. I'm going to try starting on Retinols this year and I have dry skin so I figure I need to go in easy! Meanwhile my Derm just rx me a prescription Trentinoin cream from a compounding pharmacy that's like $60 a month - so I'm glad I saw this video first!
That was really interesting about the custom formulas! I've been wanting to try them to reduce my skincare routine, but it makes sense that it might not be as effective
Thanks for this gem of information! I used curology and apostrophe for years and never had the "tretinoin glow" and just had tons of irritation, dryness, and peeling. I was on 0.1% for about 5 years. In the last couple of months, I switched to Altreno (0.05% tretinoin) and it has made the most difference in my skin. I'm never going back to compounding with my skin looking this good!
Michelle, I *love* your crocheted top! Such a vintage look. It reminds me of a similar top that my grand mom hand crocheted for me which I wore in the 1970’s.
I have both the tretinoin Rx and also use retinal cosmetic products. I find the script to be more cost effective given I have insurance and how little needs to be used. A single $20 tube lasts me 6 months, so that's only $40/yr. With the retinals from good brands I trust, it's more like $25/2 months, so 6x25=$300/yr. Big difference! I don't mind having to apply my favorite moisturizer over the tret. I also can get it from just 3 blocks from my house rather than having to mail order. So for me the tretinoin is the easy choice. I won't reup on the retinal product most likely once it's out.
Exactly. Biggest misconception about tretinoin is that it's very expensive. I didn't even look into it because I'd heard so many times it costs $100+. No it doesn't. Not with either insurance or GoodRx.
You are doing WORK. I completely agree with your observation vis-a-vis formula flexibility. I've tried prescription azelaic acid, hydroquinone, and tretinoin and ALL of them were in a white cream base that refused to absorb well (i.e., to my liking) and didn't layer nicely with anything else I use. So I dropped them. Life's too short for that mess.
I should've also mentioned, I personally mix a too-high conc of tretinoin with excess moisturiser - I don't mind the reduced efficacy because my skin is so retinoid sensitive. You can also use it like a mask, and wash it off after 10 minutes (short contact therapy). Just in case you wanted to give it another try!
I have horrible cystic acne on my chin and use tretinoin but it’s not enough so my doctor prescribed me with azelic acid cream Lanette. Can you also use azelic acid cream 20% as a mask? I live in the Netherlands and azelic acid is only available in a Lanette cream, I’m afraid it will clog my pores, or do you think Lanette creme is save to use?
@@manoninamsterdam The Ordinary and Paula's Choice do sell 10% azelaic acid in the Netherlands. Is your acne hormonal by the way? I used to have the same issue, but it was purely hormonal for me, and taking probiotics (platinum by vitaminesperpost specifically) somehow solved my issue.
I loved this video! I was using Agency and after learning all formulas have 4% niacinamide, with no option to remove it I realized it was not truly a custom formula. I told my provider I can’t use niacinamide she told me good luck and to go elsewhere.
Thank you. Always had a feeling the compound formulas were much less effective than the generics. Used a subscription service for a couple of years and it just gave me irritated skin. The generic just worked as intended, and with no side effects.
good lordie you're ACE. Thanks - I 've tried explaining the difference betwixt the OTC and prescription , to my friends and 9 times outta 10 - just give up. Hence forth this vid shall be my go to. Cheers
I really love curology because they educated me and informed me to use sunscreen (I know, I know). I started using over the counter products used from the formula they gave me and my skin has already improved sooo much.! My texture and hyperpigmentation improved…. But I ditched them for Dermatica. Curology’s face wash they gave me seems to have the shards or crystals mentioned, and I wanted tret so I made the switch. When I feel comfortable I’ll change to just tret and not the formula. Nice video and thank you for the information 🤗
In Australia we need a script for tret. Your information that it can help with pre cancerous spots on the face is so useful. I’ve had a couple of iec’s and a bcc removed and I’m sure I could make a case to my GP for a Retrieve script to help prevent future skin cancers. The cosmetic improvements would also be a plus.
I really appreciate the work that you put into producing this insightful video. I was on the verge of trying out a compounded retinoid.. now I will just stick to the OTC brand name retinols I currently use 🙂. You just saved me a bunch of money and aggravation!
Perfect timing!!! I was considering whether or not to try to get a tretinoin prescription since using OTC adapalene daily hasn’t helped enough (been using it for over a year)
I'm intrigued by the science behind skincare. I appreciate how you make it palatable and easier to understand! I've been using OTC Adaplane for over a year now with no pronounced irritation. I considered trying out a compound formula from Dermatica or Apostrophe since cosmetic derms are sparse in my area, but now I'm reconsidering. Adapalene has been working for me and I have enjoyed the results, though my acne isn't completely gone. Maybe I should just stick to Adapalene while I search for a cosmetic dermatologist who can advise if trying a stronger, prescription-strength Adaplene or a low percentage of Tret would be the best next step for me. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and hard work with us!
I'd say stick to what works, I was on tret before and it wrecked my skin. Adapalene gave me glowy and smooth skin after, something that tret never could. Plus no irritation 🤷🏻♀️ I don't want to discourage you but if something works for you, stick with it long-term unless it's damaging your skin in some way obviously. You can try and trial some tretinoin to see for a few months maybe
I can't tell you how much I love this, I'm a molecular biology postdoc who loves skincare but I don't have the pure chemistry background to grasp all of this myself. I have found it very strange how my skin reacts to retinols though. I have really bad painful cystic acne, and I tried over the counter cosmetic formulas first and they burned my face off, the cerave gives me war flashbacks to feeling my skin melting off. Couldn't tolerate Adapaline, also just made my face melt off. Some how though compounded formula works a treat, skin cleared up in about a 8 weeks, no burning, no face melting off, skin has never been happier. I have no idea why, guess it likes to be a diva.
yeah when i used plain old tretinoin gel, it made my skin crazy dry. i tried out curology and it worked without the pain. but curology is soooo expensive 😬
Lucky you, I was on Dermatica’s tretinoin for over six months and I had roughly the same amount of acne, though my skin was slightly drier and more sensitive. I flicked through a few different options, then settled on trying tazorotene but the only one I could get was a 0.1% cream, which is quite strong; that plus stress and being unable to wash my face one time due to travel gave me the worst skin I’ve had in ages this week. At least I’m on holiday so no one has to see me lol. Hoping it settles down soon. Also, I’m a biochemistry MSc student- I love how many biochemists there are in this thread and watching Michelle’s channel, it makes a lot of sense :)
I've been using Her's compounded tretinoin for about a year and half and my skin has never looked better. I used an over the counter retinal for about ten years before that and it helped, but I love tret! I'd switch to a non-compounded tret, but my insurance won't cover it (and won't cover a dermatologist for anything cosmetic) so I'm going to stick with Her's for now. I just turned 46 and have just a few fine lines around my eyes, it's all retinal.
Would you consider a video in a similar fashion but for cosmetic and pharmaceutical sunscreens? It's weird because, in India, skincare addicts usually think K-Beauty sunscreens are better than Indian pharamaceutical sunscreens, and a part of me thinks that pharma = good and cosmetic = bad Great work as usual!
I'm sure the pharmaceutical ones are more reliable when it comes to sun protection, but the issue is often consistency. I don't know how it is in India, but in most cultures sunscreen is seen as something you use occasionally at the beach to prevent skin burning, so the formulas are often very thick with a heavy white cast. I think Korean and Japanese brands were the first to really change this with sunscreens that were meant to be worn daily for anti-aging etc., with the same consistency as a regular moisturizer.
@@Mimi-jy6zp You're so right! Here, people don't use sunscreen at all, to be honest. I think it is probably a mix of how expensive good quality sunscreens are and how crappy the cheap ones are. Most of India has a pretty warm climate so it being light-weight and water resistant is important, can't find that in an affordable sunscreen 😵😵
Thank you for this video, I’ve been using tretinoin for 3 years now, a very low percentage didn’t help with my problems of acne, so my curology doctor prescribed me a more stronger one, my skin has never stopped peeling and is very dry to the point that I need very occlusive creams, but the heavy oils in them make my skin break out even more, I have stopped tretinoin for 4 days, the peeling has stopped, but I’m getting back the redness and little bumps that I had before using tretinoin, I’m just a mess, thinking on using adapalene to see if that works better. Thank you for your videos as they are very educative!!
Really great, understandable video with a high scientific standard. Tank you so much ❤. We really need more of those type of vids wehen it comes to skincare.
I have used 0.05 Tretinoin (prescription here in the US) for four years now. It took me a long time (7 months) to work up to six nights a week, I still need one night a week off, just moisturizer. I only cleanse, moisturize, let it dry, and then apply Tretinoin right before bed. I don’t try to use any other actives with Tretinoin, I’m sure my face would rebel if I did. My morning routine is pretty basic too.
Michelle, you are JUST FABULOUS! Thank you for sharing your wealth of knowledge with us! My 2 cents from someone who's 50 and only started to use retinoids 2 years ago: Go for it. I didn't do it in my 20s because I lived in Miami and ALL sunscreens I tried from childhood, until my 40s burned on application, plus the formulas were too heavy and greasy. I finally found comfortable sunscreens thanks to the Korean market. So, here's my advice: If you're not a sunscreen user, make that your priority. If you are, start on a retinol ASAP, graduate to retinal, then graduate to Adapolene, and graduate on to Tretinoin. I promise, You won't regret it as long as you • are consistent • use conservative amounts • make veeeeery slooow increments. I have very sensitive skin, and I did it. You can do it too. Don't be afraid, just be cognizant to be careful and meticulous with the strengths and application. I wish I had done this 35 years ago.
Wow, thank you for this informative video! i appreciated the section on compounded drug retinoids. Differin is so much cheaper and accessible than a tret prescription. How effective do you think Differin is for fighting wrinkles? I know Differin has research for fighting acne and less research for fighting wrinkles, while there's a lot of research for tret for fighting wrinkles. But Differin and tret are similar, so how much overlap is there for Differin to be anti-wrinkle? Thanks for your help and educational videos!
.05 Tretinoin makes my skin flake. Always, even after using it for 2 years. I tried to change to .25 but was told I have "SO many wrinkles" that I need the stronger formulation. I was concocting my own formulas, layering, etc. I have started using a retinaldehyde for the time being. I do already have major wrinkles but want to enjoy the skin I have left without it flaking 24/7 365. I haven't tried Agency or others because I question the amount of tretinoin in their formulations. Sounds like my instincts are on par. I am learning to accept my wrinkles. I earned them!
Just use baby muslin washcloths to gently exfoliate the flakes off the skin. That’s what I use and it works like a charm. Just make sure skin & cloth are wet before exfoliating, and do it daily. I actually apply the La Roche Posay Hydrating Cleanser with the exfoliation. Do it twice a week, max, and hydrate + moisturize your skin well.
If you’re flaking, your skin is more sensitive to tret and you should go with the weaker formulation. 0.025 works, it just takes longer, but irritation is not good for your skin and the inflammation itself can cause more aging. I can’t use 0.05 either, and only use 0.025 about 3 days a week. I use a cosmetic retinoid the other days, and that seems to be working for me.
When I started treating my melasma, the doctor prescribed a drug containing tretinoin at 0.05, hydroquinone and fluocinolone acetonide. My skin didn't like it very much, but I could handle it by reducing the frequency (to a 3 day interval) and using a good moisturizer for sensitive skin. Now I use only tretinoin at 0.025 every day and my skin tolerates it really well. I still use the same moisturizer tho, which might help a bit.
Tretinion and similar drug products are so hard to come by where I'm from. I have been struggling with acne my whole life and never once was this even suggested to me. I wish it was easier to get,since it would greatly help my skin for all the numerous conditions listed in your video.
Hi I found out about you & your channel from a NY mag article about where Purito went wrong. The more I read about what’s actually in products, the more concerned I am that we may not be getting what we’re paying for SPF-wise, whether purchased here in the US ot sunscreens imported from Europe or Asia. Appreciate the knowledge you bring to YT! (High time for a cosmetic chemist, to debunk some of the misinfo. these influencers are putting out there!) I’m considering purchasing Japanese sunscreen as I use 0.25% Tretinoin (without issue for four months now) & had a BAD allergic reaction to the first mineral sunscreen I patch tested indoors last week (Summer Fridays Shade Drops mineral sunscreen SPF 30.) I don’t know what ingredient I was allergic to in it but I am no longer sure they’re any gentler than “chemical” ones given my experience. I think I might be better off with a chemical sunscreen from Europe or Japan with ingredients not avail in US brands. I wish there was a way to consult with you on this or find a video addressing it. (I just don’t trust Purito after the spf “50” that turned out to be 15). scandal.) Loved your video on sunscreen. I hope you can do a video on whether some of the sunscreens available overseas are superior to those here, and if there might be a good option for someone on Tretinoin who’s had a BAD experiences with a US mineral sunscreens. Would you recommend I get a patch test to determine what ingredient i was allergic to? Appreciate it you were able to get through this missive. 😂Thanks.
I personally will go with the prescription route 9 times out of 10. Cosmetics have the chance of working and you’re purchasing a product in good faith that it’s doing something, but you’ll never really know if it is because you’re not going to get skin biopsies after using a cosmetic. Prescription medication is a guarantee that this has been tested and approved for this reason so you’re not throwing your money and hoping for results.
Prescription tretinoin completely changed my skin within weeks. I have spent decades struggling with acne and texture. I spent so much money and time on otc retinols. They just don't compare.
A related thing I worry about with regard to the efficacy of retinol - what about shipping conditions? It's like -10°C where I am in Canada right now, and I expect in Australia it's super hot in most places. How do we know shipments containing retinol products weren't exposed to excessive heat or freezing before they reach the consumer?
If it’s a prescription retinoid, it’s shipped with medication, which requires climate controlled transport and storage to maintain drug viability. We record and report temps multiple times a day with the minimum being AM and PM. It’s actually a fairly narrow range of temps, well within the storage requirements. We are required to damage drugs when they become too hot or cold. Similarly, drugs received from shipment outside of the required temp are automatically voided as a total loss against the distributor. I’ve seen a pharmacy lose almost their entire inventory over a broken AC in the summer. I would go into a pharmacy to purchase.
@@LabMuffinBeautySciencedrug products are subject to GDP (good distribution practice) throughout the entire supply chain (ie until it reaches the patient). So it is less likely to be a problem compared to cosmetics Edit: this depends on the country of course, eg in Germany/EU online pharmacies are not (yet) affected by GDP when shipping to patients, so you are right, in person would be the best choice
Awesome video ❤ I always wondered if this custom formulas are actually tested for efficacy as a whole, or if they just assume it is, based in the tretinoin percentage. I am using now a custom one just because is easier for the adaptation period. I can use it every day with small percentage and increase it gradually, and I don't need to measure the ideal amount. But, my idea is to switch to prescription once I have reached a percentage that is available as a drug (I think minimum is 0.025). On this topic, I would love to see next a guide on how to choose the best retinoid prescription 😊 There are so many options and brands, not sure yet what is best for me. Thanks ❤
Another great video, thank you so much Michelle. Personally I use tretinoin 0.05% during the night but in the winter I skip a day to avoid too dry skin. I've considered adapalene but I haven't found a good product that is available in my area. Enjoy the holidays and the New Year
The biggest take away I got was what you said about Eastern Asians being sensitive to these products. This answers A LOT for me! I'm Southeast Asian. I have struggled with a compound of 0.025% trentinoin and 4% niacinimide for over a year. Maybe this just isn't the active for me?? I'm going to see what you have to say about adapalene and estrogen cream next...
i have acne prone skin. currently mixing adapalene and CeraVe pm lotion, and it works beautifully, my skin does not flake and goes crazy. i am so glad that it works, my skin cleared up alot and i cant wait to see how my skin turns after a year
I stopped Curology because the actives they gave me were full of flaky white residue and teeny little indissolved particles. I contacted their customer service and they didn’t care.
Would love to see a video on ectoin. I have sjogrens, and have found this ingredient to be a miracle for dry eye and super dry skin. I currently acquire ectoin products from other countries, as it’s not approved in the US (at therapeutic doses), but it’s finally starting to get noticed. You’re the perfect content creator to bring this ingredient to life.
Curology did wonders for my skin when I first started. After a year or so, the dermatologist increased the tret in the formula and I seriously damaged my skin. I tried all the tricks like the sandwiching, using once a week, we lowered the tret % twice, cutting out all other actives and exfoliation completely. It’s taken a year to get my skin barrier repaired and now I’m trying to slowly incorporate a retinol product. I’m scared to try tret ever again.
I’ve never had any results from retinol. I tried Curology, and had no results from it either, but didn’t realize why. Thanks for the info! Fortunately, tretinoin works well for me, my skin is smoother and I’ve been told I look much younger than my age. I use .05% three times a week with no issue. I buy it from India and it’s always been effective.
yes, where did you buy it from? I bought from Bubba Skincare and started 1.5 months ago. I’m just hoping that it is working, but it’s hard to know when tretinoin takes several months to work haha.
i use over the counter (.1%) adapalene and gifted my friend some who was really trying to rush a skin glow up (which you can’t do with a retinoid😭🤦🏻♀️). i told him i use azelaic acid with mine but only because i’ve used a lot of actives before including azelaic acid and that he should not rush into it, use it once and week and only start using azelaic acid once your skin tolerates it. ofc he did not listen and was like “my skin is sooo dry and flaky 😢”. fortunately his skin has improved but like the process would’ve been much better if he didn’t add another active right away??!😭
I used prescription tretinoin for two years- and after finally giving it up (my poor face was just always always peeling, believe me I tried everything to acclimatise my skin and nothing worked!) my skin improved dramatically. I was using it for aging but tbh my skin is now smoother and fresher than it was on tretinoin. It really doesn’t suit everyone….
I have been using 0.25% tretinoin since my early 20’s. Originally it was for PCOS-caused acne. It sorted out the lesions and clogging pretty damn quick and I stuck with it - AND sunscreen of course. I’m in my 50’s now and apart from my pregnancies, I have used it every day. My complexion is much firmer and clearer than most women my age and basically, they’re going to have to tear it from my cold, dead claws when I’m dead.
😂
Do you get compliments for your skin?
I love this comment so much 😂
🎉🎉 Do you mean .025 or .25?
Did you notice a difference in wrinkles?
This has nothing to do with skincare, but your crochet top is just.... *chef's kiss*
Thank you!
@@LabMuffinBeautyScienceYes! The cute granny square sleeves had me at hello! Heart❤
The first thing I did was look for this comment! 😁 The crochet is stunning and the colors look great on her 💙
Ma’am I’ve been SCOURING Reddit for this information - specifically around the compound formulas. This video is everything and more thank you SO much
Any good brands you've found since this video? I don't have my computer with me on my current contract so looking up the papers she mentioned is hard
Buena chama!
@@Nurse_Lucy sorry just saw this! I was just using dermaticas compound formula which I actually loved for the enhanced azelaic acid but I was curious if the tret was doing anything since (1 the treatments expired within like 2 months and (2 I was able to use quite a bit without dryness / flakiness (even tho my skin is super dry normally and esp dry with generic tret). I’ve since switched to generic tret and I feel like my skins making use of it better than it did w dermatica (tho that could definitely just be in my head).
@@SamFerro Hi, thank you for sharing this! I have started the Skin + Me compounded formula, and I feel like the added azelaic acid and niacinamide could be irritating my skin + making the tret less effective. I'm thinking to switch to pure tret, where did you get yours from? And what strength are you using? Thanks!
@melissatranfield4054 I have nothing to do with this comment, but I found it interesting. I get mine from nurx it's about the same amount of money but straight from the pharmacy.
you are one of my favorite creators. translating this scientific information into easily understood content is no small feat and you seem to do it effortlessly.
Thank you! I've worked really hard at it 😊
@@LabMuffinBeautySciencethat is why I love watching your content as well. Having been in the field, Micro and Genetics background, I know full well that knowing content and delivering it in a digestible way, to those without the same background (people are often so specialized that going even a step outside of their field can feel like foreign language acquisition) while delivering a conclusion that appeals to common sense, rather than manipulation and fear mongering, is rarer than anyone realizes. Plus, the hilarious cutaways, I watch for the hilarious cutaways too!😂
Yesss. Nt a big nerd bt I love anything & everything skincare esp tret n ss so having all these digestible info is sooo helpful ❤
@@LabMuffinBeautySciencewe love u!!! 🥰🥰
I live in a place where 0.025% tret is over-the-counter and my skin is very tolerant to It... Using Tretinoin this past year has been great for the appearance and health of my skin. Never dealt with problems related to irritation... And my acne is 99% gone 😺
Ah, yes. How does it feel to be God’s favorite?
And which country is that?
@@noimnotakpoppfpsheacy2526most Latin American countries
Can it help dry skin?
Oh my gah I wish the US would allow that!
I switched from a compounded tretinoin from Curology to a generic prescription tretinoin cream. There definitely is a difference. My dark spots are fading quicker with the generic tretinoin cream, even without the added tranexamic acid and niacinamide that was contained in the compounded formula from Curology.
The Curology formula wrecked my face. Things are much better with just plain tretinoin from the pharmacy.
I use a similar service from Australia called Software. I used compounded 20% azelaic acid, and another formula with 0.0185% tretinoin. Both products contained niacinamide in a hyaluronic acid base. I’ve since moved on to generic brands (OTC 20% AA and prescription 0.05% tret) and there’s a lot less redness, warming of the skin, and irritation. My tret is 0.05 now which is almost 3x the concentration of my compounding formula and there’s no irritation for me.
@@ALT-vz3jn same I thought I was the only one. Used it for about two months and I could not stop purging. Purging should only last a couple of weeks
Same. Curology wrecked my face. Gave me PIE and after just stopping 1 day my skin is MUCH better. Never again will I use curology.
I’ve had the same experience with Curology vs generic tretinoin, since switching to the generic tretinoin my skin is so much calmer and I’ve actually been able to increase the concentration of tret with no irritation. My skin was constantly irritated and sensitive while using curology.
Michelle: "Guys, *STOP* bullying hyaluronic acid 😡😡😡 they are a *good* little active ingredient and they're trying their best and I am *proud* of them 😡😡😡😡"
Justice for Hyaluronic Acid! 😡😡😡
On the subject of hyaluronic acid, it would be very useful to know if, in a dry climate, it takes moisture from your skin. Would you be able to advise on that?
😂😂
Please I have the same question aboit glycerin @@leannepllpplplpbenn363
My skin doesn’t like it
how am I supposed to focus on the topic of video with this georgous crochet work fighting for my attention, it's just too good
I started with tretinoin at the age of 16 due to acne. After 5 years I took a break but then returned to tretinoin until I was about 30 when I used oral isotretinoin for 10 months. After my acne was done I had read so much about retinoids that I chose to use them as anti aging. I tried different types of retinoids but went back to using prescription tretinoin five times a week, just a pea size and I moisturise to high heaven. You are absolutely right, the package is extremely important, I store them in the right temperature and follow the instructions on the package. I am 49 and I look like a porcelain doll. Of course SPS 50+ at least 2-3 daily.
I am no doctor but i have been reading about retinoids for 30 years and I know you are giving the best and most relevant information. Michelle you are an SPF angel sent to us. Thank you.
I’ve been storing my prescription tretinoin in the fridge. Is that ok???
Might be tretinoin or just genetics
@@katkatkat5 I think so although the instructions say: store and a cool and dry place.
How long does 20g of tret usually last?
"It's a bit like hazing, but for molecules."
Genuinely laughed out loud at that one. Love your work Michelle.
😂😂 I had the same response and posted the exact same comment as you! Since you beat me by 22 hours, I deleted my post and gave your comment a thumbs up.
I just found her and love her video with poor Kenny and the fire!🔥 😂🤣. Then the hazy statement! Creative! Love it
Crazy good video Michelle. I often "feel" like medical professionals and researchers aren't always on the same page, and this was an excellent explanation without going into "doctors don't know what they're talking about" territory.
I used Curology's "custom" formula for about 6 months and then switched to the regular tube of tretinion. My Curology formula had 0.035% tretinion, and the regular tube was only 0.025%. I have to say that my experience made me feel that the tretinoin on its own was more powerful despite being a lower percentage, because I was getting the initial purge and sensitivity all over again when I made the switch! This does explain it, thanks.
Curology also presents a 25g container as a "2 month supply", when my doctor prescribes me a 20g tube of tretinoin as a one month supply...no wonder I always ran out of the Curology formula weeks before I was supposed to despite using the amount recommended! They do this on purpose, surely, because you can request your shipment early. More money for them.
what are you doing to use 20g in 1 month?! my prescription is a 25g tube and it lasts me almost a year
@@miss_jessTretinoin typically comes in either a 20g or 45g tube. I'm willing to bet that yours is 45g. If yours really is 25g I'd be wondering how on earth you could stretch that to a year. I can't imagine it being enough to be effective or applied evenly. I use a 20g one in about 6 weeks, but it's the amount I'm "allowed" to get per month. I have it in a low-ish percentage that I tolerate well and I put it on my neck as well as my face. Not a huge amount, but not the "pea sized" amount recommended for beginners.
i seriously can’t get over how amazingly informative and helpful your videos are. They are so thorough yet easy to understand.
Brilliant mention of the “buffering” process around 12min. Super important distinction!
Well, this video gave some clarity for my experience with Tret for a year. I tried all the tricks recommended to ease in and prevent irritation. For months, my skin was just very inflamed, irritated and dry. My skin never got used to Tret. I felt like a wasted a whole year. I have carefully tried the Cerave retinol and so far so good. I do have East Asian skin and often have reactions to things I try in addition to that. Tret is just too harsh for me no matter what I try.
omg someone else!! Every time I’ve tried tret my skin flips out no matter how long I try it
That was me w/ Adapalene... I'm considering trying it again, since I started Testosterone & my skin is more oily/congested than it was before. But it's definitely a gamble.
@@ZijnShayatanicaI've failed at rx retinoids a bunch of times. Using the ordinary pink serum as part of my routine has kept me going on
Have you tried Altreno? My skin is very sensitive and it’s the only retinoid I’ve been able to use without irritation.
yes, physicians often don't even know what pharmaceutical technology and biopharmacy are.
pharmacists are the people that learn every little detail about it over years at the university.
I just finished my MSc in biochemistry and I have always loved all things makeup & skincare… your channel is a mix of my two favorite things to geek out about! 💕
I love your comment and your profile picture, so that means I adore you! Same here!
You are amazing, tysm for the thoroughness and honesty here 🙏 I used tret for 4 years and it ended up leading to an outbreak of perioral dermatitis. Now my skin is so sensitive and reactive that almost any product can trigger the PD again (as well as other conditions now too) and it's SO hard to manage and treat, even with antibiotics. I wish people were better informed about the pros and cons of different actives, there's so much mystification in this industry.
I sympathise with you. I didn't use tret for as long as you but I tried it (0.05% once a week for 4 weeks) and I now have rosacea and the skin on my face is extremely sensitive. I regret it so much. My poor skin barrier 😔
@@sheridanbeverley9173I’m so sorry you went through that :( but yeah 0.05 is pretty strong as a starter
@@sheridanbeverley9173you are going through that***
@@sheridanbeverley9173Tretinoin obliterated and aged tf out of my skin, I even got a dry/raw patch that left a terrible scar. This all went away slowly once I stopped using it. If you live in a super dry climate and don’t have great water quality, please do not use tret. If you can’t provide the hydration that your skin needs, tret will make your lines and wrinkles WORSE.
Hi im sorry for you, did your skin healed?@@sheridanbeverley9173
As a pharmacist who worked next to a dermatology clinic, I really love your videos! And you're 100% right. Pharmacists here have the right to choose and adjust the base and vehicles. Unfortunately since parabens fell out of favor and most bases (other than very hydrophilic ones) don't have them, the microbial stability is very limited to 3-4 months like you've said. We used an unguator for compounding, but even then you have to manually homogenize the powders and there is no chance you can get them to a fine enough particle size by hand for the best effect, especially with ingredients that require it (most formulations here are suspensions). A few times we've had salicylic acid creams where the crystals didn't dissolve properly and it was a nightmare to deal with.
I am Scandinavian and very pale. I always thought I had a bit sensitive skin but when I started with retinol and then switched to adapalene a few months later, I never felt any irritation, nor got any redness. I didn't really read much about "and I more or less slapped it on like moisturizer" (avoiding eyes) and then added another layer of moisturizer cocktails from hadalabo and cerva (two of my favourite brands) and at the end sealed it all in with a good layer of vaseline to make it penetrate deeply and went to bed. Still no irritation ever and my skin became 10 years younger within a year. I have now dialed down on the adapalene, mainly because it seems a bit of a waste to use that much, but honestly never had as much as an itch or a red spot.
Adapalene is so good! My skin reacted badly to tretinoin then I tried Differin (I had acne so I needed something). Differin changed the game! 3 months later, not much acne anymore, no irritation or redness and glowy skin!! I once couldn't believe my skin texture after I had washed it and hadn't applied my moisturiser yet. I looked at it and it seemed to have a "shiny" film and I was so weirded out because I thought I hadn't washed my face well. It turned out that was the texture of my skin LOL, very smooth and glowy even without products on. It's wild. I don't ever plan on giving up Differin especially since it's easily available here in the UK through a pharmacist.
I get zero irritation from tretinoin either, but I did with over the counter retinol. So odd haha
I started with tretinoin, but had too much irritation. Used adapalene for about two years with no irritation. Simple skincare routine. Switched to tretinoin about two months ago with zero irritation too minimal irritation and purging. The greatest part about adapalene - you can pick it up at any drug store.
@@Alex-dj9qjwhat brand do you use?
I think we only have Differin brand adapalene in the UK. At least, that's what I see everywhere. @LivMeadowvalley
Thank you for this scientific deep dive. I use a prescription service (Agency}. I have used prescription tretinoin for years and constantly battled irritation. My formula has Tretinoin, Niacinimide, tranexamic acid and Panthenol. If there are formulas out there that are separate for the $30 a month I payI would love to hear about it. Also I got so tired of layering all these different products on every night and many times would quit before completing the seven steps needed. With the Agency I use a moisturizer and their formula and it simplifies things. Love your scientific take on everything
Hi Michelle, have you ever looked into any of the data/research around the question of tretinoin and/or retinol being harmful to meibomium gland cells in the eyelid? I realize you are not an eye doctor but your ability to understand research and translate it to the general public is so appreciated. ❤
I understand MB glands do wither with age on their own, and theres a body of thought that only oral isotretinoin has been shown to damage MB glands, but theres still the question/uncertainty around the possibility of topical reintoids doing the same, even if not directly applied to the eye area, and theres one video ive seen on yt from an eye doc that advises extreme caution and some eye docs recommend not applying to the face at all. A review of what literature we do have on the topic would be an epic video if you ask me! Especially since retinoids are becoming soo popular .
Don’t put it as close to your eye if you’re worried about your my bone and glands/tear and dry eye
really informative without being confusing! being able to simplify info like this without dumbing it down is the mark of a great teacher.
This whole video is why I rely on experts like you 💜 also - sweater is SWEATERING 💜
It is isn’t it!❤
I have really sensitive skin, so it was hard to find an acne solution that worked for me. Tretinoin was surprisingly much more tolerable and effective for me than Duac and BHAs.
As a formulator, I really appreciated the depth you go into with this topic! 👍🏻
That explains perfectly why my Saint Derm (healed my acne with isotretinoine and supervised the long scar removal process) is so strict when it comes to the treti brand. It' s OTC in my country so he always insists: "IT MUST BE FERRER LABS. MUST MEANS MUST, I KNOW WHAT I' M TALKING ABOUT". I' m gonna share your vid with him so he can nod in peace for 17 mins😉. Thank you for your hard work. Happy Whateveryoucelebrate🧛🏻♀️🖤
You are such a blessing to this community! Thank you for your hard work! ❤
Thank you so much!
I’ve been using all types of retinol for over 10 years. I started with pharmacy brands then moved very slowly through all the Australian retail products getting stronger and more expensive. I’ve used retrieve trentinoin 0.05% for every second day for two years, it’s aud $65 for 9-10 months supply.
I was looking for anti aging (negligible improvement) but for me the skin smoothing, reduced pigmentation, less single pimples and reduced sensitivity to lots of other things keeps me using it. ( I had very reactive skin, now I don’t, something I hadn’t heard about in retinol journeys)
I never buffer, I apply every second day and used tiny tiny amounts until I was used to a product but still can’t retinol everyday without a light flake.
I used Paula’s choice 1% retinol happily for a long time until they reformulated with dimethicone which blocked my pores gradually causing pimples.
I should have gone to trentinoin sooner, it has saved me a lot of money.
$65 for a 9-10 month supply seems like a very reasonable price
I started the same way as you 9 years ago, and second to the experience that my skin is far less reactive now and just generally happier. Actually, it IS talked about - quite a few specialists say that tret or any retinol really is making your skin over time thicker so-to-say, and this results with much less problematic skin. Thats why also tret is suggested for rosacea, but of course only introduces slowly over time from light concentration to stronger. I started with 0.3 over the counter retinol, now using 0.05% tret every 3rd day and retinal in between.
Does Retrieve also come in a 0.025% strength?
I have just started on Retrieve 0.5% . Am now using three times a week and so far, no issues. Really anticipating the journey. Costs me a lot less than the retinaldehyde serum I was using, too!
Would you be able to recommend a good sunscreen for Australian sun
I LOVE hyaluronic acid, and I say this as someone in my late 30s with acne-prone, oily skin who is VERY picky with my moisturizers because everything seems to either make me greasy or break me out. I also LOVE Tretinoin. Both are a must in my very basic skincare routine. In the evening, I cleanse my face with a gentle 2% AHA face wash, then I apply pure Hyaluronic acid serum on damp skin (even around my eyes ), and after that, I apply Tretinoin 0.05% cream (obviously not around my eyes). That’s it. I don’t even use eye cream because I’m prone to milia. If I need extra moisture around my eyes, around my mouth or anywhere else, I use Cetaphil’s lightweight face and body moisturizer for sensitive skin, as the last step, it’s the only budget-friendly yet effective moisturizer that’s worked for me since I was in college. In the morning, I wash my face with water, and the only product I apply is a broad-spectrum SPF30 oil-control sunscreen (Cetaphil or Differin brand). I rarely use make up other than lipstick and pencil eyeliner…full face make-up with concealer, foundation, eyeshadow, mascara and blush are reserved for special occasions, and I make sure to take them off with micellar water before cleansing. It’s been that way for almost a year now and my skin looks fantastic, I rarely break out unless it’s PMS time, and I have even skin tone, my pores look tight, no blackheads, no whiteheads, no fine lines. I only use Tretinoin every other night now. My skin doesn’t tolerate vitamin C, so I make sure to just get plenty of it through my diet. Side-note: cleaning up my diet, daily exercise, drinking enough water, eating plenty of fruits, veges, enough protein and healthy fats, along with completely cutting out sugar and processed fats like vegetable oil has worked wonders as well, both inside and out.
omg this is just what I needed! Using 0,05% tretinoin rn but it‘s just waay too irritating. I can‘t find 0,025% either here in Germany but I wasn‘t too sure about the cosmetic retinoid. Can you maybe make a compilation of which cosmetic products (actual product) you find effective? thankyou!
Geek & gorgeous has a retinal and they do ship to Germany
You can buffer with a thin layer of moisturiser before, then use a tiny amount of tret with the dotting method
@@BlaublahblueMichelle mentioned in a different comment that she personally mixes hers with moisturiser so that is definitely an option
Paula’s choice is good.
Have you tried tret micro?
I have dry eyes and feel scared of worsening my meibomian gland shrinkage with retinols. You should do a video about the best bang for your buck skincare that isn’t retinol based! Thank you!!!
I’d like to know more about this dry eye thing you mentioned! -a fellow dry eyer
also had worsening dry eyes from using retinoids! Now I use tretinoin as short contact therapy (basically put it on for an hour in the evening then wash off with cleanser, do regular skincare after). that way I don't risk it getting anywhere near my eyes when sleeping. My dry eye hasn't been triggered since!
Me too. Too much meds going into my eyes now..
I used differin about a month ago. My eyes were so dry and hurting so bad it triggered a migraine. F*** retinol and tret..🤣
This was SO good!! The bioequivalence regulation explanation was fascinating 💡
Love Tretinoin! I am 52 and started with .5% 2 years ago and now I am on 1% and have seen a magnificent improvement in my skin with no irritation. ❤
What Brenda do you use?
@@mila_girl3005 I have used both Taro and Perrigo
What brand are you using?
@@mila_girl3005 whatever the pharmacy gives me which is usually Taro or PERRIGO
@@USmomma4 Taro or Perrigo
this channel is a gem for dermatologists. thanks for scientific approach! i've subscribed.
I’ve been on retinol for about 5 years now, and absolutely nothing I’ve used has come close to the results I’ve gotten. I definitely had a purging phase, but I’ll never go back.
Thank you to yourself and all experts who helped. I'm going to try starting on Retinols this year and I have dry skin so I figure I need to go in easy! Meanwhile my Derm just rx me a prescription Trentinoin cream from a compounding pharmacy that's like $60 a month - so I'm glad I saw this video first!
That was really interesting about the custom formulas! I've been wanting to try them to reduce my skincare routine, but it makes sense that it might not be as effective
Thanks for this gem of information! I used curology and apostrophe for years and never had the "tretinoin glow" and just had tons of irritation, dryness, and peeling. I was on 0.1% for about 5 years. In the last couple of months, I switched to Altreno (0.05% tretinoin) and it has made the most difference in my skin. I'm never going back to compounding with my skin looking this good!
I had the same exact experience, and came to the same conclusion!
This is my new favorite channel!!
Michelle, I *love* your crocheted top! Such a vintage look. It reminds me of a similar top that my grand mom hand crocheted for me which I wore in the 1970’s.
I just started using CeraVe Retinol a couple of months ago and my skin has never been this good ever. ❤
Michelle posts, I stop whatever I'm doing and get to learnin'!
Your videos are always super helpful, and this one has to be one of the most helpful ones you've made. THANK YOU.
Michelle is doing the lord’s work
I have both the tretinoin Rx and also use retinal cosmetic products. I find the script to be more cost effective given I have insurance and how little needs to be used. A single $20 tube lasts me 6 months, so that's only $40/yr. With the retinals from good brands I trust, it's more like $25/2 months, so 6x25=$300/yr. Big difference! I don't mind having to apply my favorite moisturizer over the tret. I also can get it from just 3 blocks from my house rather than having to mail order. So for me the tretinoin is the easy choice. I won't reup on the retinal product most likely once it's out.
Exactly. Biggest misconception about tretinoin is that it's very expensive. I didn't even look into it because I'd heard so many times it costs $100+. No it doesn't. Not with either insurance or GoodRx.
I paid $95 for my tube WITH my insurance approval. Ugh. Wish I could find it for less.
@@PilatesbyGina it can be cheaper to use GoodRx instead of insurance if you're in the USA.
Lab muffin is the best.
You are doing WORK. I completely agree with your observation vis-a-vis formula flexibility. I've tried prescription azelaic acid, hydroquinone, and tretinoin and ALL of them were in a white cream base that refused to absorb well (i.e., to my liking) and didn't layer nicely with anything else I use. So I dropped them. Life's too short for that mess.
I use a gel tretinoin, it's been great!
I should've also mentioned, I personally mix a too-high conc of tretinoin with excess moisturiser - I don't mind the reduced efficacy because my skin is so retinoid sensitive. You can also use it like a mask, and wash it off after 10 minutes (short contact therapy). Just in case you wanted to give it another try!
I have horrible cystic acne on my chin and use tretinoin but it’s not enough so my doctor prescribed me with azelic acid cream Lanette. Can you also use azelic acid cream 20% as a mask? I live in the Netherlands and azelic acid is only available in a Lanette cream, I’m afraid it will clog my pores, or do you think Lanette creme is save to use?
@@manoninamsterdam The Ordinary and Paula's Choice do sell 10% azelaic acid in the Netherlands. Is your acne hormonal by the way? I used to have the same issue, but it was purely hormonal for me, and taking probiotics (platinum by vitaminesperpost specifically) somehow solved my issue.
@@LabMuffinBeautyScience I did this once by accident and was surprised by how great my skin looked😂
I loved this video! I was using Agency and after learning all formulas have 4% niacinamide, with no option to remove it I realized it was not truly a custom formula. I told my provider I can’t use niacinamide she told me good luck and to go elsewhere.
Thank you. Always had a feeling the compound formulas were much less effective than the generics. Used a subscription service for a couple of years and it just gave me irritated skin. The generic just worked as intended, and with no side effects.
On an unrelated matter- I adore your top!
Thank you!!
good lordie you're ACE. Thanks - I 've tried explaining the difference betwixt the OTC and prescription , to my friends and 9 times outta 10 - just give up. Hence forth this vid shall be my go to. Cheers
I really love curology because they educated me and informed me to use sunscreen (I know, I know). I started using over the counter products used from the formula they gave me and my skin has already improved sooo much.! My texture and hyperpigmentation improved…. But I ditched them for Dermatica. Curology’s face wash they gave me seems to have the shards or crystals mentioned, and I wanted tret so I made the switch. When I feel comfortable I’ll change to just tret and not the formula. Nice video and thank you for the information 🤗
In Australia we need a script for tret. Your information that it can help with pre cancerous spots on the face is so useful. I’ve had a couple of iec’s and a bcc removed and I’m sure I could make a case to my GP for a Retrieve script to help prevent future skin cancers. The cosmetic improvements would also be a plus.
I really appreciate the work that you put into producing this insightful video. I was on the verge of trying out a compounded retinoid.. now I will just stick to the OTC brand name retinols I currently use 🙂. You just saved me a bunch of money and aggravation!
Another great video. Looking forward to the next two follow up videos. Especially the cosmetic retinoids. Always watch you !!
Perfect timing!!! I was considering whether or not to try to get a tretinoin prescription since using OTC adapalene daily hasn’t helped enough (been using it for over a year)
What about trifarotene?
@@lilivd4359what’s the upside?
I'm intrigued by the science behind skincare. I appreciate how you make it palatable and easier to understand! I've been using OTC Adaplane for over a year now with no pronounced irritation. I considered trying out a compound formula from Dermatica or Apostrophe since cosmetic derms are sparse in my area, but now I'm reconsidering. Adapalene has been working for me and I have enjoyed the results, though my acne isn't completely gone. Maybe I should just stick to Adapalene while I search for a cosmetic dermatologist who can advise if trying a stronger, prescription-strength Adaplene or a low percentage of Tret would be the best next step for me.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and hard work with us!
I'd say stick to what works, I was on tret before and it wrecked my skin. Adapalene gave me glowy and smooth skin after, something that tret never could. Plus no irritation 🤷🏻♀️ I don't want to discourage you but if something works for you, stick with it long-term unless it's damaging your skin in some way obviously. You can try and trial some tretinoin to see for a few months maybe
I can't tell you how much I love this, I'm a molecular biology postdoc who loves skincare but I don't have the pure chemistry background to grasp all of this myself. I have found it very strange how my skin reacts to retinols though. I have really bad painful cystic acne, and I tried over the counter cosmetic formulas first and they burned my face off, the cerave gives me war flashbacks to feeling my skin melting off. Couldn't tolerate Adapaline, also just made my face melt off. Some how though compounded formula works a treat, skin cleared up in about a 8 weeks, no burning, no face melting off, skin has never been happier. I have no idea why, guess it likes to be a diva.
yeah when i used plain old tretinoin gel, it made my skin crazy dry. i tried out curology and it worked without the pain. but curology is soooo expensive 😬
Lucky you, I was on Dermatica’s tretinoin for over six months and I had roughly the same amount of acne, though my skin was slightly drier and more sensitive. I flicked through a few different options, then settled on trying tazorotene but the only one I could get was a 0.1% cream, which is quite strong; that plus stress and being unable to wash my face one time due to travel gave me the worst skin I’ve had in ages this week. At least I’m on holiday so no one has to see me lol. Hoping it settles down soon.
Also, I’m a biochemistry MSc student- I love how many biochemists there are in this thread and watching Michelle’s channel, it makes a lot of sense :)
Ive been using Tretinoin .1 for 20 years for melasma. It is the most precious possession of mine.
Third!!! Love you, Michelle! You're irreplaceable.
hype! literally been on a lab muffin binge watch this week as a new sub
I've been using Her's compounded tretinoin for about a year and half and my skin has never looked better. I used an over the counter retinal for about ten years before that and it helped, but I love tret! I'd switch to a non-compounded tret, but my insurance won't cover it (and won't cover a dermatologist for anything cosmetic) so I'm going to stick with Her's for now. I just turned 46 and have just a few fine lines around my eyes, it's all retinal.
Wow. This is by far the most informative retinol video I have ever seen. Thank you!
Would you consider a video in a similar fashion but for cosmetic and pharmaceutical sunscreens? It's weird because, in India, skincare addicts usually think K-Beauty sunscreens are better than Indian pharamaceutical sunscreens, and a part of me thinks that pharma = good and cosmetic = bad
Great work as usual!
I'm sure the pharmaceutical ones are more reliable when it comes to sun protection, but the issue is often consistency. I don't know how it is in India, but in most cultures sunscreen is seen as something you use occasionally at the beach to prevent skin burning, so the formulas are often very thick with a heavy white cast. I think Korean and Japanese brands were the first to really change this with sunscreens that were meant to be worn daily for anti-aging etc., with the same consistency as a regular moisturizer.
@@Mimi-jy6zp You're so right! Here, people don't use sunscreen at all, to be honest. I think it is probably a mix of how expensive good quality sunscreens are and how crappy the cheap ones are. Most of India has a pretty warm climate so it being light-weight and water resistant is important, can't find that in an affordable sunscreen 😵😵
Altreno tretinoin lotion allowed me to use a prescription retinoid without irritation. I was truly impressed.
Its just such a hassle to try and get a script. So I don't think I'll ever have access to it. Looking forward to your future videos in retinoids 😊
I just asked my regular Doctor, worth a try.
iherb has 0.1% differin adapalene gel.. I haven't ordered it myself yet but I'm planning to.
Thank you for this video, I’ve been using tretinoin for 3 years now, a very low percentage didn’t help with my problems of acne, so my curology doctor prescribed me a more stronger one, my skin has never stopped peeling and is very dry to the point that I need very occlusive creams, but the heavy oils in them make my skin break out even more, I have stopped tretinoin for 4 days, the peeling has stopped, but I’m getting back the redness and little bumps that I had before using tretinoin, I’m just a mess, thinking on using adapalene to see if that works better. Thank you for your videos as they are very educative!!
I would try chemical peels i.e. ordinary aha bha peel. Much more success using that compared to tretinoin
Love your videos! I always learn a ton and come away from it feeling empowered to make better skin care choices!
Really great, understandable video with a high scientific standard. Tank you so much ❤. We really need more of those type of vids wehen it comes to skincare.
I have used 0.05 Tretinoin (prescription here in the US) for four years now. It took me a long time (7 months) to work up to six nights a week, I still need one night a week off, just moisturizer. I only cleanse, moisturize, let it dry, and then apply Tretinoin right before bed. I don’t try to use any other actives with Tretinoin, I’m sure my face would rebel if I did. My morning routine is pretty basic too.
Michelle, you are JUST FABULOUS! Thank you for sharing your wealth of knowledge with us!
My 2 cents from someone who's 50 and only started to use retinoids 2 years ago:
Go for it. I didn't do it in my 20s because I lived in Miami and ALL sunscreens I tried from childhood, until my 40s burned on application, plus the formulas were too heavy and greasy.
I finally found comfortable sunscreens thanks to the Korean market. So, here's my advice:
If you're not a sunscreen user, make that your priority.
If you are, start on a retinol ASAP, graduate to retinal, then graduate to Adapolene, and graduate on to Tretinoin. I promise, You won't regret it as long as you
• are consistent
• use conservative amounts
• make veeeeery slooow increments.
I have very sensitive skin, and I did it. You can do it too. Don't be afraid, just be cognizant to be careful and meticulous with the strengths and application.
I wish I had done this 35 years ago.
Wow, thank you for this informative video! i appreciated the section on compounded drug retinoids. Differin is so much cheaper and accessible than a tret prescription. How effective do you think Differin is for fighting wrinkles? I know Differin has research for fighting acne and less research for fighting wrinkles, while there's a lot of research for tret for fighting wrinkles. But Differin and tret are similar, so how much overlap is there for Differin to be anti-wrinkle? Thanks for your help and educational videos!
That's actually going to be the next video, tretinoin vs adapalene vs tazarotene vs trifarotene!
@@LabMuffinBeautySciencecan't wait!
Your video quality has improved so much! 🎉❤
.05 Tretinoin makes my skin flake. Always, even after using it for 2 years. I tried to change to .25 but was told I have "SO many wrinkles" that I need the stronger formulation. I was concocting my own formulas, layering, etc. I have started using a retinaldehyde for the time being. I do already have major wrinkles but want to enjoy the skin I have left without it flaking 24/7 365. I haven't tried Agency or others because I question the amount of tretinoin in their formulations. Sounds like my instincts are on par. I am learning to accept my wrinkles. I earned them!
Just use baby muslin washcloths to gently exfoliate the flakes off the skin. That’s what I use and it works like a charm.
Just make sure skin & cloth are wet before exfoliating, and do it daily. I actually apply the La Roche Posay Hydrating Cleanser with the exfoliation.
Do it twice a week, max, and hydrate + moisturize your skin well.
I’ve been using it 2 years too. I can’t use every day and still use a small amount. Doesn’t make the wrinkles go away, just nicer skin in general.
If you’re flaking, your skin is more sensitive to tret and you should go with the weaker formulation. 0.025 works, it just takes longer, but irritation is not good for your skin and the inflammation itself can cause more aging. I can’t use 0.05 either, and only use 0.025 about 3 days a week. I use a cosmetic retinoid the other days, and that seems to be working for me.
Great for texture just not worth it so far. Have not given up!@@samnicol9388
@@heidilongman8128 I will try to insist next time.
This is the continuing education I need and can get on.
When I started treating my melasma, the doctor prescribed a drug containing tretinoin at 0.05, hydroquinone and fluocinolone acetonide. My skin didn't like it very much, but I could handle it by reducing the frequency (to a 3 day interval) and using a good moisturizer for sensitive skin. Now I use only tretinoin at 0.025 every day and my skin tolerates it really well. I still use the same moisturizer tho, which might help a bit.
Tretinion and similar drug products are so hard to come by where I'm from. I have been struggling with acne my whole life and never once was this even suggested to me. I wish it was easier to get,since it would greatly help my skin for all the numerous conditions listed in your video.
I’m looking at my retinol bottle wondering if it has ‘fallen apart’ 😮
2 days ago I found out that the retinol I've been using for a year, "expired" (over the PAO date) 6 months ago 💀. In the same boat as you
Thank you Michelle for all the information, your hard work and time! 🧡🧡🧡
Incredible video as always ❤
Hi I found out about you & your channel from a NY mag article about where Purito went wrong. The more I read about what’s actually in products, the more concerned I am that we may not be getting what we’re paying for SPF-wise, whether purchased here in the US ot sunscreens imported from Europe or Asia. Appreciate the knowledge you bring to YT! (High time for a cosmetic chemist, to debunk some of the misinfo. these influencers are putting out there!) I’m considering purchasing Japanese sunscreen as I use 0.25% Tretinoin (without issue for four months now) & had a BAD allergic reaction to the first mineral sunscreen I patch tested indoors last week (Summer Fridays Shade Drops mineral sunscreen SPF 30.) I don’t know what ingredient I was allergic to in it but I am no longer sure they’re any gentler than “chemical” ones given my experience. I think I might be better off with a chemical sunscreen from Europe or Japan with ingredients not avail in US brands. I wish there was a way to consult with you on this or find a video addressing it. (I just don’t trust Purito after the spf “50” that turned out to be 15). scandal.) Loved your video on sunscreen. I hope you can do a video on whether some of the sunscreens available overseas are superior to those here, and if there might be a good option for someone on Tretinoin who’s had a BAD experiences with a US mineral sunscreens. Would you recommend I get a patch test to determine what ingredient i was allergic to? Appreciate it you were able to get through this missive. 😂Thanks.
I personally will go with the prescription route 9 times out of 10. Cosmetics have the chance of working and you’re purchasing a product in good faith that it’s doing something, but you’ll never really know if it is because you’re not going to get skin biopsies after using a cosmetic. Prescription medication is a guarantee that this has been tested and approved for this reason so you’re not throwing your money and hoping for results.
Which ones exactly? The generic ones you get from the dermatologist?
Prescription tretinoin completely changed my skin within weeks. I have spent decades struggling with acne and texture. I spent so much money and time on otc retinols. They just don't compare.
@aoutsky was that the only thing you changed? What else did you have on your prescription based skincare routine? Any irritation or scarsm
Best affordable serum for oily skin 😢...
A related thing I worry about with regard to the efficacy of retinol - what about shipping conditions? It's like -10°C where I am in Canada right now, and I expect in Australia it's super hot in most places. How do we know shipments containing retinol products weren't exposed to excessive heat or freezing before they reach the consumer?
It's hard to know - same applies to drug products too. IMO in person is safest for unstable products.
If it’s a prescription retinoid, it’s shipped with medication, which requires climate controlled transport and storage to maintain drug viability. We record and report temps multiple times a day with the minimum being AM and PM. It’s actually a fairly narrow range of temps, well within the storage requirements. We are required to damage drugs when they become too hot or cold. Similarly, drugs received from shipment outside of the required temp are automatically voided as a total loss against the distributor. I’ve seen a pharmacy lose almost their entire inventory over a broken AC in the summer. I would go into a pharmacy to purchase.
@@LabMuffinBeautySciencedrug products are subject to GDP (good distribution practice) throughout the entire supply chain (ie until it reaches the patient). So it is less likely to be a problem compared to cosmetics
Edit: this depends on the country of course, eg in Germany/EU online pharmacies are not (yet) affected by GDP when shipping to patients, so you are right, in person would be the best choice
I was handling .025 tret just fine for 3 years but my skin looked noticeably better as soon as I stopped using it.
Awesome video ❤ I always wondered if this custom formulas are actually tested for efficacy as a whole, or if they just assume it is, based in the tretinoin percentage.
I am using now a custom one just because is easier for the adaptation period. I can use it every day with small percentage and increase it gradually, and I don't need to measure the ideal amount.
But, my idea is to switch to prescription once I have reached a percentage that is available as a drug (I think minimum is 0.025).
On this topic, I would love to see next a guide on how to choose the best retinoid prescription 😊 There are so many options and brands, not sure yet what is best for me.
Thanks ❤
Unrelated to the video, but the color of your top looks so good on you!!
Another great video, thank you so much Michelle. Personally I use tretinoin 0.05% during the night but in the winter I skip a day to avoid too dry skin. I've considered adapalene but I haven't found a good product that is available in my area. Enjoy the holidays and the New Year
Where do you live?
La Roche-Posay is sold globally and their adapalene gel is one of the most popular here in the US. You may be able to find that one where you live
@@Cara-39 Oh yes we do have La Roche Posay ofcourse but I didn't know they had one! Thank you so much :)
@@ccap3211 I live in Belgium
The biggest take away I got was what you said about Eastern Asians being sensitive to these products. This answers A LOT for me! I'm Southeast Asian. I have struggled with a compound of 0.025% trentinoin and 4% niacinimide for over a year. Maybe this just isn't the active for me?? I'm going to see what you have to say about adapalene and estrogen cream next...
i have acne prone skin. currently mixing adapalene and CeraVe pm lotion, and it works beautifully, my skin does not flake and goes crazy. i am so glad that it works, my skin cleared up alot and i cant wait to see how my skin turns after a year
I do this for my teenager. Differin and La Roche-Posay moisturizer. 🎉
@@hopeless_wanderer502you're winning 🎉
Pretty and smart and honest and funny helped redeem my skin. Thank you for all you do! ❤
I stopped Curology because the actives they gave me were full of flaky white residue and teeny little indissolved particles. I contacted their customer service and they didn’t care.
hahaha we did it, Joe! Thank you, excellent work, Michelle!
Would love to see a video on ectoin. I have sjogrens, and have found this ingredient to be a miracle for dry eye and super dry skin. I currently acquire ectoin products from other countries, as it’s not approved in the US (at therapeutic doses), but it’s finally starting to get noticed. You’re the perfect content creator to bring this ingredient to life.
I would like info on this as well. Between my Sjogrens and my Ehlers my corneas are not focusing and the drops are not enough
Curology did wonders for my skin when I first started. After a year or so, the dermatologist increased the tret in the formula and I seriously damaged my skin. I tried all the tricks like the sandwiching, using once a week, we lowered the tret % twice, cutting out all other actives and exfoliation completely. It’s taken a year to get my skin barrier repaired and now I’m trying to slowly incorporate a retinol product. I’m scared to try tret ever again.
I’ve never had any results from retinol. I tried Curology, and had no results from it either, but didn’t realize why. Thanks for the info! Fortunately, tretinoin works well for me, my skin is smoother and I’ve been told I look much younger than my age. I use .05% three times a week with no issue. I buy it from India and it’s always been effective.
where do you buy it from?
@@tyleryoungofficial ReliableRX
yes, where did you buy it from? I bought from Bubba Skincare and started 1.5 months ago. I’m just hoping that it is working, but it’s hard to know when tretinoin takes several months to work haha.
@@nataliegundersen9673 I bought it online from ReliableRX.
My sister and I love your videos! 🩷
i use over the counter (.1%) adapalene and gifted my friend some who was really trying to rush a skin glow up (which you can’t do with a retinoid😭🤦🏻♀️). i told him i use azelaic acid with mine but only because i’ve used a lot of actives before including azelaic acid and that he should not rush into it, use it once and week and only start using azelaic acid once your skin tolerates it. ofc he did not listen and was like “my skin is sooo dry and flaky 😢”. fortunately his skin has improved but like the process would’ve been much better if he didn’t add another active right away??!😭
I used prescription tretinoin for two years- and after finally giving it up (my poor face was just always always peeling, believe me I tried everything to acclimatise my skin and nothing worked!) my skin improved dramatically. I was using it for aging but tbh my skin is now smoother and fresher than it was on tretinoin. It really doesn’t suit everyone….
True! Try Adapalene.