What I think is neat is once these get figured out, all the manufacturers seemed to switch to them right away. In the 40s you see all sorts of combinations of positive displacement pumps, straight-up centrifugal pumps and propeller slipstream systems (which didn't work with gear shifters naturally.) Then these come out and everyone goes to them and no one tries anything else again ever. Little details get added like self-priming with driveshaft seals and... I can't think of anything else! Maybe the old slipstream intakes start disappearing for less drag.
Any else do a retrofit to add a telltale on a 70s motor that didnt have one? Holy fudge is that nerve wracking. Drilling a hole on the top of the powerhead...and dont slip.or drill too deep in to the cylinder wall. Dont tap it wrong. So happy with the results but feck that was stressful.
Hello. This is off-topic question, but can somebody tell me what is difference between top- and low carbs in my 70 hp VRO Evinrude? What will happen, if they go to wrong position?
Which brings me back to another question, what's up with that 115? You sell it already? How much with 2.75 year subscriber discount? Unless you want to use my motor for the channel and help me rebuild huh huh huh lol
Why OMC put the thermostats and poppets in a unmanageable location on the pre 98 V4's is only a question God could answer. People are lazy. People get really lazy when you have to remove a powerhead or from what I read, at the very least try and do the job with the lower cowling (pan) in place or unbolted and pulled down 3mm for "better access" which is to say, only marginally more access than you have if you did it in place. They obviously pulled their head out of their ass when they designed the loopers with the thermostats being on top of the powerhead. My motor that I acquired with boat has been on it's last leg for two years since purchase. I needed the boat hull and knew that the motor was likely going to need rebuilt eventually and just send it continually but I'm not an idiot. I knew her condition and continued to ride that bitch into submission. I said, "she gonna go until she blow". It's kind of insane though how these motors will have half of a top ring and still have compression. My numbers are decent but SCOPE says she's had a hard life. 3/4 cylinders have extensive ring damage to the piston. Rust present so obviously water intrusion. She's a beaut Clark. Let me tell you. Somehow still runs strong but this bitch is getting harder and harder to start and recently had another small piece of top ring smack the sparkplug ground strap and embed itself into the piston. About a 1 or 2mm piece of the tapered top ring. I ran 3 or 4 miles on 3 cylinders to get her back to the ramp. I finally decided that it was time to tackle the shittly looking head bolts and hope for the best. I did a pretty good job with penitrent and heat. Only broke one head off a bolt that has plenty of thread sticking out to get it out of the block. The other thing that was dually noted was my water deflectors in the head were in the TYPICAL STATE for 30 years young. Swollen like a cow titty. So that leads me back to my original point. O yea and I bought this boat in MEXICO so how much fucking maintenance went into this engine?! You can't fix the thermostats with BUD LIGHT.
I did not know the impeller would change in to a centrifugal pump in high RPM.
Same. Fascinating to know that design feature.
Yea, it makes sense for sure, but I never really knew it either. I have replaced a dozen impellers over the years too!
What I think is neat is once these get figured out, all the manufacturers seemed to switch to them right away. In the 40s you see all sorts of combinations of positive displacement pumps, straight-up centrifugal pumps and propeller slipstream systems (which didn't work with gear shifters naturally.) Then these come out and everyone goes to them and no one tries anything else again ever. Little details get added like self-priming with driveshaft seals and... I can't think of anything else! Maybe the old slipstream intakes start disappearing for less drag.
Good bare bones explanation.Thanks
Otimo video.
Huh, I always assumed the water pump turned the other direction - scooping water in. Only seen them on your bids rather than hands-on.
Any else do a retrofit to add a telltale on a 70s motor that didnt have one? Holy fudge is that nerve wracking. Drilling a hole on the top of the powerhead...and dont slip.or drill too deep in to the cylinder wall. Dont tap it wrong.
So happy with the results but feck that was stressful.
What year was S.L.O.W. first implemented?
Absolutely I've caught plastic bags from Ice bags on Lake Michigan on my outboard and inboard lower units😮
Piece of kelp once. RPMs mysteriously went up a bit and the exhaust note changed.
Hello. This is off-topic question, but can somebody tell me what is difference between top- and low carbs in my 70 hp VRO Evinrude? What will happen, if they go to wrong position?
Which brings me back to another question, what's up with that 115? You sell it already? How much with 2.75 year subscriber discount? Unless you want to use my motor for the channel and help me rebuild huh huh huh lol
Why OMC put the thermostats and poppets in a unmanageable location on the pre 98 V4's is only a question God could answer. People are lazy. People get really lazy when you have to remove a powerhead or from what I read, at the very least try and do the job with the lower cowling (pan) in place or unbolted and pulled down 3mm for "better access" which is to say, only marginally more access than you have if you did it in place. They obviously pulled their head out of their ass when they designed the loopers with the thermostats being on top of the powerhead. My motor that I acquired with boat has been on it's last leg for two years since purchase. I needed the boat hull and knew that the motor was likely going to need rebuilt eventually and just send it continually but I'm not an idiot. I knew her condition and continued to ride that bitch into submission. I said, "she gonna go until she blow". It's kind of insane though how these motors will have half of a top ring and still have compression. My numbers are decent but SCOPE says she's had a hard life. 3/4 cylinders have extensive ring damage to the piston. Rust present so obviously water intrusion. She's a beaut Clark. Let me tell you. Somehow still runs strong but this bitch is getting harder and harder to start and recently had another small piece of top ring smack the sparkplug ground strap and embed itself into the piston. About a 1 or 2mm piece of the tapered top ring. I ran 3 or 4 miles on 3 cylinders to get her back to the ramp. I finally decided that it was time to tackle the shittly looking head bolts and hope for the best. I did a pretty good job with penitrent and heat. Only broke one head off a bolt that has plenty of thread sticking out to get it out of the block. The other thing that was dually noted was my water deflectors in the head were in the TYPICAL STATE for 30 years young. Swollen like a cow titty. So that leads me back to my original point. O yea and I bought this boat in MEXICO so how much fucking maintenance went into this engine?! You can't fix the thermostats with BUD LIGHT.