Takes me back. I built the ‘63 or ‘64 as a kid, as well as several of the Universal monster kits. They never turned out as beautifully as your Superman. The quality of the work transforms a toy into a statue. Well done. It’s also nice to see these models are still around in some form
He almost unconsciously captured the 40’s comic book style of the mold. The bricks show different tones depending on the viewing direction. I am deeply impressed. Yes, the vintage head made all the difference.
Mr Fraley, what a superb video, lots of interesting info, techniques and a great build...Superman is my least favourite hero, but you held my interest throughout. Top job and I learned a few things...Cheers I.S.M for sharing
I had the Monogram 1978 reissue when I was a kid. I was pretty small so my mom did the detailed painting. We didn't glue in Superman to the base so I could use him more as a toy and to use the broken wall with other action figures. It's a very dynamic scene for a model kit!
Ian, glazing is really just applying translucent layers of paint over your base color. I mix my paint with liquitex glazing medium to achieve the level of transparency I desire. The amount of glazing medium you add to the paint will impact your overall color. You can also use plain water as a medium to create glazes, or anything that will sufficiently dilute the paint into a translucent tint. By adding layers of glazed colors to your base color, you create a richer dimension, or depth with your figures (in this case). There are several tutorials on You Tube on this very subject. There are a lot of different techniques, but all are essentially creating the same effect.
I have two of these kits. I made a Sculpey polymer clay head for one and turned him into Bizarro Superman. I even made Bizarro Krypto from a dollar store toy Dalmation and Dracula toy cape.
Wonderfully inspirational. I have a original Aurora Superman kit (stamped 1964 underneath the base) that my father and I built when I was about 6 yrs old. I would love to restore it - strip the testors enamel and gently take it apart. Way back then, of course, we used testors plastic cement in the tube. Any suggestions of how to gently take apart the model - especially the cape, brick wall and steel girders?
Hi....this is such a late reply. Looks like Marc never saw it. My suggestion, if you havent done this already, is to try sticking it into the freezer. The cold breaks the bonds fairly easily. To strip the paint, try Purple Power degreaser. Soaking it in there over night then scrubbing everything the next day with a toothbrush works well. Make sure you wear eye protection and gloves when doing so. Hope that helps and thanks for watching
I’m sorry if this question has been answered. I see you inside almost all the time. How do you keep the paint smell in check or does the paint brand you use not have an odor? Thank you in advance
I'll provide an answer and he will probably follow up with his own. He uses, as do I, acrylics which are all water based and have very little to no odor. Cleaning is also easier as much is done with water and water based solutions. Thanks for watching
I apologize for the late response! As Oggie stated, I paint almost exclusively with acrylic paints, such as Vallejo. There really isn't any odor at all and when I do airbrush, I use a spray booth to vent the over spray outside. Acrylic paints are well suited for figure models, but not always the most durable. I strongly recommend sealing the finished paint with a clear fixative (Vallejo makes their own), to help protect the paint. Thank you for your interest!
@@InterstellarModeler Thanks, thats much appreciated. Do you have any videos on how to highlight muscles or clothing folds? I'm finding this the trickiest aspect of model making.
Phil Lister at the time I asked if he’d provide a video the piece was nearly completed. I felt that fans of this particle model would benefit from at least an overview of his process. Thanks for watching
Excellent work
Eric, Thank you!
Excellent work on the build!
Thank you very much!
Takes me back. I built the ‘63 or ‘64 as a kid, as well as several of the Universal monster kits. They never turned out as beautifully as your Superman. The quality of the work transforms a toy into a statue. Well done. It’s also nice to see these models are still around in some form
Marc is an incredible artist for sure
Awesome work on this kit, and thank you Oggie for bringing it to us. :)
Thank you Richard!!
Very nice model and great video from start to end.
You sure called it with switching out the heads🙂
Stay well Guys.
Thank you Tim!
@@MarcFraley
You are welcome Marc.
I like when you and Oggie team up.
Marc again beautiful work and a faithful reproduction of the George Reeves Superman
Thanks so much Christopher!
Fantastic build.
Thank you Marc!
He almost unconsciously captured the 40’s comic book style of the mold. The bricks show different tones depending on the viewing direction. I am deeply impressed. Yes, the vintage head made all the difference.
Thank you Timothy, very much!
Kirk Allyn has an "§" that looked like the George Reeves one. ( He was in the late 40's Superman serials.) Nice build of Superman !!!.
Mr Fraley, what a superb video, lots of interesting info, techniques and a great build...Superman is my least favourite hero, but you held my interest throughout. Top job and I learned a few things...Cheers I.S.M for sharing
Thank you Martin! I am pleased you enjoyed our video!
Amazing paint job! Very retro and much more in keeping of what I recognise as the true superman. Thanks for sharing.
Marc is an excellent modeler for sure, thanks for watching
Great build, it inspires me to do better. Thank you
totally agree, thx for the comment
I had the Monogram 1978 reissue when I was a kid. I was pretty small so my mom did the detailed painting. We didn't glue in Superman to the base so I could use him more as a toy and to use the broken wall with other action figures. It's a very dynamic scene for a model kit!
I actually debated on gluing mine to the base, or not! I have to admit, I did fly him around (in my hand) before attaching him to the base! LOL
Excellent Job my friend! 🎉
Hi Peter...thank you very much
This is such a wild coincidence, I was literally just looking for a superman figure model kit to build yesterday :p
Look at the horizon kit too it also is a nice kit
Stupid question ..... how is glazing done.
Time has not been kind to this kit, but it great that something good can be done with such a vintage kit
Ian, glazing is really just applying translucent layers of paint over your base color. I mix my paint with liquitex glazing medium to achieve the level of transparency I desire. The amount of glazing medium you add to the paint will impact your overall color. You can also use plain water as a medium to create glazes, or anything that will sufficiently dilute the paint into a translucent tint. By adding layers of glazed colors to your base color, you create a richer dimension, or depth with your figures (in this case). There are several tutorials on You Tube on this very subject. There are a lot of different techniques, but all are essentially creating the same effect.
Really liked the head you used looks more like George Reeves
I have two of these kits. I made a Sculpey polymer clay head for one and turned him into Bizarro Superman. I even made Bizarro Krypto from a dollar store toy Dalmation and Dracula toy cape.
Sounds really cool! I have not tried sculpting a head yet, but maybe one of these days!
Now, I need to redo my redo on the bricks and I-beams! I shoulda looked on RUclips sooner.
Marc did such an outstanding job
Wonderfully inspirational. I have a original Aurora Superman kit (stamped 1964 underneath the base) that my father and I built when I was about 6 yrs old. I would love to restore it - strip the testors enamel and gently take it apart. Way back then, of course, we used testors plastic cement in the tube. Any suggestions of how to gently take apart the model - especially the cape, brick wall and steel girders?
Hi....this is such a late reply. Looks like Marc never saw it. My suggestion, if you havent done this already, is to try sticking it into the freezer. The cold breaks the bonds fairly easily. To strip the paint, try Purple Power degreaser. Soaking it in there over night then scrubbing everything the next day with a toothbrush works well. Make sure you wear eye protection and gloves when doing so. Hope that helps and thanks for watching
I’m sorry if this question has been answered. I see you inside almost all the time. How do you keep the paint smell in check or does the paint brand you use not have an odor?
Thank you in advance
I'll provide an answer and he will probably follow up with his own. He uses, as do I, acrylics which are all water based and have very little to no odor. Cleaning is also easier as much is done with water and water based solutions. Thanks for watching
I apologize for the late response! As Oggie stated, I paint almost exclusively with acrylic paints, such as Vallejo. There really isn't any odor at all and when I do airbrush, I use a spray booth to vent the over spray outside. Acrylic paints are well suited for figure models, but not always the most durable. I strongly recommend sealing the finished paint with a clear fixative (Vallejo makes their own), to help protect the paint. Thank you for your interest!
Can you please post all the colored paints you used for this model. I'm about to embark on my own attempt! Thanks.
You can also find him on Facebook. I will let him know you left a message here
@@InterstellarModeler Thanks, thats much appreciated.
Do you have any videos on how to highlight muscles or clothing folds? I'm finding this the trickiest aspect of model making.
Show !!!!
Great build, but not showing the actual work being done, leaves something to be desired.
Phil Lister at the time I asked if he’d provide a video the piece was nearly completed. I felt that fans of this particle model would benefit from at least an overview of his process. Thanks for watching
@@InterstellarModeler I get it.