I saw one on eBay, after a few weeks of hunting, I ordered it and it arrived a couple of days ago. It's in totally mint condition and has barely been used - no spec of dust inside and out. Even got it for a reasonable price considering the hike of prices during this pandemic. Can't wait to take it on a trip to capture some spring waterfalls and bloom in the mountains.
My first camera was a used OM20, later I bought a used OM2SP, it’s a great looking camera but mine had a problem, I would put a roll of film through it and maybe only one or two shots would expose, the rest of the film was unexposed. I think I had a problem with the shutter curtain? I took it a camera repair shop who had the thing for like a month and couldn’t find anything wrong with it. I later traded it I for a used Canon EOS 600 as I wanted a AF camera, which, although plastic turned out to be a another great camera, this was more than 30 years now. Also, compared to my brothers OM2n, I found the winder mechanism on the SP not as smooth, but your right about the ergonomics of Olympus cameras then and it’s what I liked about them, if I were to buy a film camera today, I’d get a black OM2n.
Great rundown! I didn't know the program mode required to set at the smallest aperture - can't wait to try this with OFF-THE-FILM METERING! Woohoo! Cheerst for the excellent video.
I am a happy owner of an Olympus Om2 Spot Program. I use that since 2010 with color slides film. I also own an Olympus Om2n, an Olympus Om1n, and the first Olympus Om1. Glad to see that even now there are people who use SLR manual cameras.
Nice looking camera the OM2SP. Shutter on mine is noisier than the OM2N and the batteries seem to drain very quickly on the 2SP compared to the OM2/OM2N. Just such beautiful cameras though.
One thing about the OM2SP OM3 OM4 & OM4Ti, the motor drive cover is same size as the battery cover (it's smaller on OM1 & OM2) and the cover doesn't fit into the slot on the OM winder 2 that was put there so you don't leave the cover and lose it. I tried so many times before I realised only the old style ones fit in that slot so it's easy to lose that MD cover. So you need a baggie to store it in.
That’s a real shame! To be honest, I don’t do the sort of photography that requires a winder. It’s a lovely camera, but sometimes I think they hurried aspects of the design. Originally the OM series was the most compatible system - even filter threads were standardised across their lenses.
One thing, you don't have to set the minimum aperture. If you set a larger one it'll only stop down to that then only increase the shutter speed. I've got an OM40 which works the same way and the manual has a diagram of what happens.
Paul Queripel That’s a good point! I followed the manual’s advice as it would give the greatest exposure range, which seemed most useful for a Program mode. I don’t actually use that mode myself very often.
A significant number of 2s's develop a problem with the ASA input which will cause the display, and ultimately the Auto/Program exposure, to jump erratically. This should be corrected with a routine repair, but periodically rotating the ASA knob should temporarily correct it. Give the knob a twist back and forth before every use, and you should be fine.
Jai Pantling I’ve been told various things. One article said to leave it set to the mechanical 1/60 shutter speed. Other articles recommend removing them altogether. Personally, I just leave them in and replace the batteries every 4 months.
Remove batteries when not using. The mechanical 1/60 will stop accidental pressing the shutter release while camera is in bag or similar, thus prevemtive active metering. There is a low constant battery drain when batteries are installed that can not be turned off.
It's best to take the batteries out on the OM2SP, OM3, OM4 and OM4Ti because there is a constant battery drain that someone measured and posted on a forum way back in the 1990s. 4Ti battery drain is a bit less than the others - but batteries in OM1 and OM2 last way longer because they have a physical off switch. Times I have picked up the OM4Ti and swore loudly because batteries had gone after not much use and I missed a shot. I think this was a major design flaw because a physical OFF switch is absent. Also, the battery cover is fiddly so you need a coin and a few minutes to install new batteries. For this reason, once I had OM2s second hand I would use them in preference to the OM4Ti or 2SP. Batteries last almost forever in OM2 and especially the OM1, which has fully mechanical shutter anyway. Battery is just for the meter on OM1.
@@davebellamy4867 The drain of an OM-Ti is 1/9 of the original OM-4. Some OM-4 had updated circuits and draw about 1/7 of the original OM-4. I would think OM-2sp is about the same as OM-4. Most OM-2sp also draw current from the internal batteries when flash light is on in viewfinder, thus drain even worse. Silver oxide batteries should be used for OM-4, OM-4Ti etc since others drain faster. I agree with removing batteries when not shooting, allthough my OM-4Ti does last about a year with silveroxide batteries. Also tape som spare batteries on the neck strap so you always carry spares. Ironically this feature of the camera always beeing on is ment for the photographer to never miss a shot by fiddling with an On switch or shutter lock switch (none existent on Olympus cameras). For casual users who leave camera unused for several months it has "the opposite" effect. Now I just accept the "battery drain" and work around it. The OM-2 also is always on but draws very little current. The OM-1 meter battery can be shut off. If you can live with this they are sweet gems all of the one series Olympus cameras!
Regarding "battery drain": one requirement of Mr. Maitani's design parameters was that his cameras had to be instantly available to operate at any time -- no shutter release lock, no "on/off" that would render the camera inoperative, etc. (You will note that even when "off", OM's are all functional, a truly "professional" feature.) In order to accomplish this with later model OM's such as the 2s, 4, 3, etc, with LCD displays in the finder, it is necessary that portions of the circuit are always active. Thus, even when "off" (no display) or set on the mechanical "60" setting, there will be a slight battery drain at all times. As a result, silver oxide batteries WILL go dead within 6 to 12 months. If this is intolerable to you, the ONLY option is to remove the batteries. No substitute batteries are recommended -- alkaline or lithium battery life is significantly shorter than silver oxides.
I went back to the OM1. You need the prism foam wiped off (easy diy job) and the meter calibrated for 1.55v silver oxide batteries (a job I left to a professional) but then you have a nice to use, reliable and long-term-serviceable manual camera.
Check out ebay. Pay to get a decent one. If you skimp and buy a cheapo, and then find it doesn’t work, the OM2SP is very expensive for repairs compared to the older OM2
The Glad Guy Nope, It only came in black. You may want to look at the OM4Ti if you want that sort of finish? It has an even more advanced spot meter, but is a little expensive. Lovely camera, though
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I saw one on eBay, after a few weeks of hunting, I ordered it and it arrived a couple of days ago. It's in totally mint condition and has barely been used - no spec of dust inside and out. Even got it for a reasonable price considering the hike of prices during this pandemic. Can't wait to take it on a trip to capture some spring waterfalls and bloom in the mountains.
It’s a real beauty. I love the spot meter
My first camera was a used OM20, later I bought a used OM2SP, it’s a great looking camera but mine had a problem, I would put a roll of film through it and maybe only one or two shots would expose, the rest of the film was unexposed. I think I had a problem with the shutter curtain? I took it a camera repair shop who had the thing for like a month and couldn’t find anything wrong with it. I later traded it I for a used Canon EOS 600 as I wanted a AF camera, which, although plastic turned out to be a another great camera, this was more than 30 years now.
Also, compared to my brothers OM2n, I found the winder mechanism on the SP not as smooth, but your right about the ergonomics of Olympus cameras then and it’s what I liked about them, if I were to buy a film camera today, I’d get a black OM2n.
Sadly the case for older cameras. The more modern ‘plastic fantastic’ AF SLRs from the 1990s are going to be more reliable.
The OM2/OM2n is definitely the best looking camera, and when functioning 'as new', is gorgeous to use.
Yes, it’s an iconic design.
Great rundown! I didn't know the program mode required to set at the smallest aperture - can't wait to try this with OFF-THE-FILM METERING! Woohoo! Cheerst for the excellent video.
Happy shooting! Yes, this camera is a real gem.
excellent video. I have this camera since 1986 and still working as the first day I used.
Thank you
OM4 is wonderful as well. My favorite.
It really is! :-)
I am a happy owner of an Olympus Om2 Spot Program.
I use that since 2010 with color slides film.
I also own an Olympus Om2n, an Olympus Om1n, and the first Olympus Om1.
Glad to see that even now there are people who use SLR manual cameras.
I’ve played with several different film cameras, but I always end up preferring the OM2SP. It’s perfect for slides with that spot meter
Hello there.
Which Olympus Om you would say you like the most?
I used one for over 20 years - absolutely my favorite SLR! Beat to crap but still works. I also own OM-1, OM-2N, and an OM-PC.
They’re all great! I love the OM2 😀
Just got one, absolutely amazing 😎
It’s my favourite piece of kit
I have the OM2SP in excellent working order and I love it! I think it’s a great competitor to my Nikon FA.
It’s a great camera
Nice looking camera the OM2SP. Shutter on mine is noisier than the OM2N and the batteries seem to drain very quickly on the 2SP compared to the OM2/OM2N. Just such beautiful cameras though.
Yes, they have great lines. I replace the OM2SP battery every 6 months anyway
One thing about the OM2SP OM3 OM4 & OM4Ti, the motor drive cover is same size as the battery cover (it's smaller on OM1 & OM2) and the cover doesn't fit into the slot on the OM winder 2 that was put there so you don't leave the cover and lose it. I tried so many times before I realised only the old style ones fit in that slot so it's easy to lose that MD cover. So you need a baggie to store it in.
That’s a real shame! To be honest, I don’t do the sort of photography that requires a winder. It’s a lovely camera, but sometimes I think they hurried aspects of the design. Originally the OM series was the most compatible system - even filter threads were standardised across their lenses.
One thing, you don't have to set the minimum aperture. If you set a larger one it'll only stop down to that then only increase the shutter speed. I've got an OM40 which works the same way and the manual has a diagram of what happens.
Paul Queripel That’s a good point! I followed the manual’s advice as it would give the greatest exposure range, which seemed most useful for a Program mode. I don’t actually use that mode myself very often.
A significant number of 2s's develop a problem with the ASA input which will cause the display, and ultimately the Auto/Program exposure, to jump erratically. This should be corrected with a routine repair, but periodically rotating the ASA knob should temporarily correct it. Give the knob a twist back and forth before every use, and you should be fine.
I didn’t know this. Thank you
Hey, love the video and love this camera, I have one myself. What’s the best mode to leave it in when you’re not using it to conserve battery? Thanks.
Jai Pantling I’ve been told various things. One article said to leave it set to the mechanical 1/60 shutter speed. Other articles recommend removing them altogether.
Personally, I just leave them in and replace the batteries every 4 months.
Remove batteries when not using. The mechanical 1/60 will stop accidental pressing the shutter release while camera is in bag or similar, thus prevemtive active metering. There is a low constant battery drain when batteries are installed that can not be turned off.
It's best to take the batteries out on the OM2SP, OM3, OM4 and OM4Ti because there is a constant battery drain that someone measured and posted on a forum way back in the 1990s. 4Ti battery drain is a bit less than the others - but batteries in OM1 and OM2 last way longer because they have a physical off switch. Times I have picked up the OM4Ti and swore loudly because batteries had gone after not much use and I missed a shot. I think this was a major design flaw because a physical OFF switch is absent. Also, the battery cover is fiddly so you need a coin and a few minutes to install new batteries. For this reason, once I had OM2s second hand I would use them in preference to the OM4Ti or 2SP. Batteries last almost forever in OM2 and especially the OM1, which has fully mechanical shutter anyway. Battery is just for the meter on OM1.
@@davebellamy4867 The drain of an OM-Ti is 1/9 of the original OM-4. Some OM-4 had updated circuits and draw about 1/7 of the original OM-4. I would think OM-2sp is about the same as OM-4. Most OM-2sp also draw current from the internal batteries when flash light is on in viewfinder, thus drain even worse. Silver oxide batteries should be used for OM-4, OM-4Ti etc since others drain faster. I agree with removing batteries when not shooting, allthough my OM-4Ti does last about a year with silveroxide batteries. Also tape som spare batteries on the neck strap so you always carry spares. Ironically this feature of the camera always beeing on is ment for the photographer to never miss a shot by fiddling with an On switch or shutter lock switch (none existent on Olympus cameras). For casual users who leave camera unused for several months it has "the opposite" effect. Now I just accept the "battery drain" and work around it. The OM-2 also is always on but draws very little current. The OM-1 meter battery can be shut off. If you can live with this they are sweet gems all of the one series Olympus cameras!
hey mate! i'm looking forward into buying an olympus om. would you still say that the om2sp is a good option? thanks!
I’d recommend it highly
Regarding "battery drain": one requirement of Mr. Maitani's design parameters was that his cameras had to be instantly available to operate at any time -- no shutter release lock, no "on/off" that would render the camera inoperative, etc. (You will note that even when "off", OM's are all functional, a truly "professional" feature.)
In order to accomplish this with later model OM's such as the 2s, 4, 3, etc, with LCD displays in the finder, it is necessary that portions of the circuit are always active. Thus, even when "off" (no display) or set on the mechanical "60" setting, there will be a slight battery drain at all times. As a result, silver oxide batteries WILL go dead within 6 to 12 months. If this is intolerable to you, the ONLY option is to remove the batteries. No substitute batteries are recommended -- alkaline or lithium battery life is significantly shorter than silver oxides.
Yes, this is unfortunate. If the batteries were rechargeable it would have been more palatable to users.
I went back to the OM1. You need the prism foam wiped off (easy diy job) and the meter calibrated for 1.55v silver oxide batteries (a job I left to a professional) but then you have a nice to use, reliable and long-term-serviceable manual camera.
Where can I buy this? I want to have the spot program edition.
Check out ebay. Pay to get a decent one. If you skimp and buy a cheapo, and then find it doesn’t work, the OM2SP is very expensive for repairs compared to the older OM2
Thanks for replying, is there any silver color for the spot program?
The Glad Guy Nope, It only came in black. You may want to look at the OM4Ti if you want that sort of finish? It has an even more advanced spot meter, but is a little expensive. Lovely camera, though
Min stopped working. The crank just keeps cranking
Shame! It’scsuch a great camera
How much can I sell a broken one with 5 lenses?
I’d sell the lenses separately. OM2SP is very expensive to repair