What an epic, iconic design. Plus the lenses are the most gorgeous ever. Just my view. Mr. Maitani was a genius of a designer - plus his team. When I was 16 I wanted to work for a company that produced products like these - but in the UK we produce more or less nothing; utterly shameful.
I saw the camera on my feed and it's so gorgeous that I clicked on it immediately. I note that the 28mm/3.8 and f/2.8 lenses both have a flat front with the lens name giving that really cool reflection. Many others have sloping fronts with the lens name. Just the aesthetics of these lenses are a source of fascination to me.
My First camera 📷 was an OM-10... I was 12. Long pause - and at 50 I'm on a very similar version (* Fuji X30) which mimics the OM series. My niece is just gotten into 🎞 - buying her an OM-2N
My first SLR camera was an OM10 in 1981. I was 15. I bought it with my savings. Now I have Olympus OMD EM10 mark iis. I did eventually buy OM2Ns secondhand because that's what I'd wanted back in 1981. OM10 was great value for money though because you could spend the difference on a zoom lens and go to airshows and get cool pictures of flying F15s and A10s.
OM2 and OM4 are the best small slr's w interchangeable lenses for film. Pentax MX might be small, but small and regular apperture and shtterspeed layout is a hassle. But small camera and shutter and speed control with the rings acessible with your left hand is brilliant. That is why Olympus is/were the king of the small footprint slr film camera marker
I have the 28/3.5, 28/2.8, and the 24/2.8. (A dozen others too). But I do feel the 24mm is amazingly sharp. I love them all but the 24 and the 85/2.0 are probably the most outstanding. The most character comes from the silver nosed 50/1.4. So much fun, these OM’s
The sr44 batteries are the ones that are recommended because the voltage is stable until they die. The voltage of the lr44 starts to drop and may cause trouble with the shutter that may lock up.
22:16 I should make a video of my Olympus Zuiko lenses just for the excuse to handle these fabulous pieces of design and craftsmanship. I agree that the quality feel of these lenses and the compactness were second to none. Just the focusing ring action and its pyramidal rubber design oozed quality.
The Shoe1 is specifically for use on the original OM-1 (not N) and cannot be mounted on the later model cameras because the attachment screw turns in the opposite direction. The Shoe 2 is for regular auto flash on the OM-2 and Shoe 3 for camera regulated flash on the OM-2 . The Shoe 4 is for both OM-1n and OM-2n.
I am a fan of Olympus camera, I have olympus RC 35, inbrand new condition, Olympus pen D2, Olympus pen EE2, Olympus OM1 but all are roll film Camera, and now film is not available in market. Now the time is of digital camera, and every day Olympus is changing its digital cameras.
22:16 Yay! The 21mm f/3.5 is a wonderful lens! Tiny. Plus the 16mm f/3.5 fisheye which is similarly tiny. The 50mm f/1.8 is a jewel of a lens. I love the 85mm f/2 that will even fit in the standard camera case (just) and your 28mm lens looks gorgeous. I have a 28mm f/2.8. I haven't got the expensive lenses, except thez180mm f/2.8. I love the 35mm f/2 and the 35mm f/2.8. The 35/2.8 and the 180/2.8 were the only ones I bought new, apart from the standard lens too.
Did you notice that the 50mm f/1.8 standard lens was the only one to have a plastic aperture ring? All the other lenses I've seen were metal. However the print on the plastic aperture ring was the best because the numbers were engraved more deeply and the paint stays pristine for longer. Ironic! I'm referring to the later Zuiko MC version but I assume it was probably the same on the older F. Zuiko model.
My Olympus cameras have held up better then my small Nikons. However I usually grab the Nikon for a couple of reasons the battery is dead on my OM because I forgot to turn the meter off the last time I used it. Also I love the Matrix metering of my FA.
Another curiosity about the lenses. The 50mm f/1.8 and 28mm f/2.8 both have an extra metal ring on the back containing the bayonet, behind the ring with the more matt finish. Every other lens I've seen has the mount ring actually as part of that matt finish ring. It's a curious feature. I don't know if somehow that saved money in manufacture of those two perhaps slightly more common lenses. I wondered if your 28mm f/3.5 was the same.
Bro thank you! your videos are very helpful but, you could tell in more detail and in detail about the work of individual functions in such cameras! + if you watch a video with subtitles, they translate your story in a very simple way, after watching the video, the question remains, how to take a normal picture on such a camera?
I'm just guessing but popularity of 24mm is more from adapting to digital mirrorless cameras with apsc it gaves nice 35mm or 50mm with m4/3 :) that's the reason of higher prices in Poland and Europe of wide vintage glass. And about om series, I have om1 till now and it's really like the jewel in slr world.
Well this is a bit of an 'eye-opener'. Twenty or so years ago I swapped my utterly awful, plasticky Canon EOS5 for an Olympus 0m2n with a 50mm f1.8 and a 135mm f4 lens which I still have but which I've almost never used. I'll have to dig it out.
I have 3 old Olympus SLR's which I picked up before film became cool again. My 2n is very nice, I bought it for the lenses it came with from a thrift store. The manual mode works great using the meter reading. The Automatic mode though holds the shutter open for 3 seconds plus almost always, including when you'd expect a 1/250th or faster shutter. Have you encountered this issue, is it something that may be reasonably fixed in your opinion? Thanks, I enjoy the videos, and love the Yashica I bought from you.
That's a little bit odd. Maybe there is a fault with the silicon cell in the base of the camera under the mirror. I think the manual exposure readings and indeed the estimates in auto mode come from a cadmium sulphide CdS cell somewhere in the viewfinder but the actual auto exposure is determined by the silicon cell based on light reflected from the shutter curtain or the film (on long exposures) when the mirror lifts after you press the shutter. That might explain why manual mode works and auto mode doesn't. If I'm correct, your viewfinder display would give sensible exposure indications even in auto mode, even though when you press the shutter the actual exposure will be wrong, as you describe.
If you take the lens off the camera, open the back and select B exposure and the press the shutter and hold ot down, you will see the silicon photo cell in the base of the camera interior. It should look like a kind of rectangular little glass bubble type lens from the back that presumably focuses the light from the shutter curtain that should have that weird random light and dark pixel type pattern on the front. Perhaps you could check to see if there is any dirt covering the lens on that cell or if it is missing or broken.
Remember that the OM-2n (and most other auto OM cameras) are Off-The-Film cameras. That means there must be film in the camera (and a lens attached) for proper operation in Auto and Off modes. Otherwise the Silicone Blue Cells on the main circuit only see the black pressure plate! (The needle in the finder is an indicator ONLY! It does NOT actually control the camera.) To check the camera's operation, you can either load a "dummy" roll of film, or cut a piece of paper to place inside the back where the film normally sits. Then the actual shutter speed provided should approximate the indication in the finder. If not, the contacts in the mode switch of the 2 and 2n are known to oxidize due to their age, resulting in longer and erratic exposures. This can be corrected during routine service by a properly trained and experienced Olympus tech. There are other possible causes to this sort of malfunction, but a good Olympus tech can diagnose and correct them.
I have an Olympus OM10, and I am looking to upgrade, I have 2 lenses for it ( a 50mm 1.8 and a 100mm 2.8). I have had my eyes on switching completely to a Nikon fm2 system but they can have quiet the price tag these days. This camera (the om2) recently came up for sale in my area. Does it make sense for me to stay with Olympus and grow my lese collection or is the FM2 really that much better? thanks!
The OM-2 is great, the closest Nikon camera would be the FE or FE2, the FM and FM2 are mechanical and manual only like the OM-1 ✌ I own an OM-1 and OM-2n, they are both a joy to use. The advance lever feels significantly smoother on the OM-2n, though, and I use the aperture priority a lot for low light photography where it's difficult to see the light meter needle in the viewfinder.
My OMG/OM20 is having issues loading the film. The take up spool wont rotate when i cock the shutter and spool the film on. Sometimes it works sometimes it doesn’t. I really like this small camera but that is a real headache. Not sure if I want to pick up another or just move on.
The take-up spool on virtually every 35mm camera is supposed to "slip" a little -- if it didn't, as more and more film wrapped around it, the spacing between frames would get larger and larger. But if the take-up spool slips freely, you've got a problem that an experienced Olympus tech needs to see. What drives the film a fixed amount with every frame is the sprocket. If it is the sprocket that is turning freely, sometimes the rewind release on the front of the camera (just below the release button) sticks horizontally -- it should spring to a vertical orientation as soon as the camera is next wound after rewinding a roll of film. That may be repaired, or you can simply be sure to turn it back vertically manually the next time you load film. Wind and make sure the sprocket doesn't slip before loading film. One other thing to watch out for is to note that when loading film, the film leader must be put INTO, BUT NOT THROUGH the take-up spool. If you push the leader through the take-up spool so that it sticks out the other side, the spool will get too large, too quickly, and may begin skipping over the sprocket teeth, resulting in overlapping frames after 12 exposures or so.
That's a tough question, but would have to be any of the models with the spot meter feature. I love the things I have been able to do with the OM4 Ti, it allows very creative and precise control of the the light which even the most modern digital cameras cannot.
My favourite camera of all-time
I own many 35mm cameras including Leica but when the time comes to sell up my OM2 is the only one I'll keep. I simply love it.
Same
I actually love having the aperture ring on the lens, I find it incredibly intuitive
I have this exquisite camera. It still amazes me that it can accurately meter a scene up to 120 seconds exposure.
The best review and presentation of this camera I’ve seen on RUclips! Thank you!
What an epic, iconic design.
Plus the lenses are the most gorgeous ever. Just my view. Mr. Maitani was a genius of a designer - plus his team. When I was 16 I wanted to work for a company that produced products like these - but in the UK we produce more or less nothing; utterly shameful.
I saw the camera on my feed and it's so gorgeous that I clicked on it immediately. I note that the 28mm/3.8 and f/2.8 lenses both have a flat front with the lens name giving that really cool reflection. Many others have sloping fronts with the lens name. Just the aesthetics of these lenses are a source of fascination to me.
Your videos are always very through and to the point. Thanks
My First camera 📷 was an OM-10... I was 12. Long pause - and at 50 I'm on a very similar version (* Fuji X30) which mimics the OM series. My niece is just gotten into 🎞 - buying her an OM-2N
My first SLR camera was an OM10 in 1981. I was 15. I bought it with my savings. Now I have Olympus OMD EM10 mark iis. I did eventually buy OM2Ns secondhand because that's what I'd wanted back in 1981. OM10 was great value for money though because you could spend the difference on a zoom lens and go to airshows and get cool pictures of flying F15s and A10s.
OM2 and OM4 are the best small slr's w interchangeable lenses for film. Pentax MX might be small, but small and regular apperture and shtterspeed layout is a hassle. But small camera and shutter and speed control with the rings acessible with your left hand is brilliant. That is why Olympus is/were the king of the small footprint slr film camera marker
I am a proud owner of an OM 2, the Camera is now 37 years old and fully functioning .
I have the 28/3.5, 28/2.8, and the 24/2.8. (A dozen others too). But I do feel the 24mm is amazingly sharp. I love them all but the 24 and the 85/2.0 are probably the most outstanding. The most character comes from the silver nosed 50/1.4. So much fun, these OM’s
The sr44 batteries are the ones that are recommended because the voltage is stable until they die. The voltage of the lr44 starts to drop and may cause trouble with the shutter that may lock up.
I miss mine so much!
I bought one with zero knowledge on how to use it and its so fun
22:16 I should make a video of my Olympus Zuiko lenses just for the excuse to handle these fabulous pieces of design and craftsmanship. I agree that the quality feel of these lenses and the compactness were second to none. Just the focusing ring action and its pyramidal rubber design oozed quality.
Insanely underrated glass! I have the 35mm f2 which is a glorious lens
The Shoe1 is specifically for use on the original OM-1 (not N) and cannot be mounted on the later model cameras because the attachment screw turns in the opposite direction. The Shoe 2 is for regular auto flash on the OM-2 and Shoe 3 for camera regulated flash on the OM-2 . The Shoe 4 is for both OM-1n and OM-2n.
I am a fan of Olympus camera, I have olympus RC 35, inbrand new condition, Olympus pen D2, Olympus pen EE2, Olympus OM1 but all are roll film Camera, and now film is not available in market. Now the time is of digital camera, and every day Olympus is changing its digital cameras.
22:16 Yay! The 21mm f/3.5 is a wonderful lens! Tiny. Plus the 16mm f/3.5 fisheye which is similarly tiny. The 50mm f/1.8 is a jewel of a lens. I love the 85mm f/2 that will even fit in the standard camera case (just) and your 28mm lens looks gorgeous. I have a 28mm f/2.8. I haven't got the expensive lenses, except thez180mm f/2.8. I love the 35mm f/2 and the 35mm f/2.8. The 35/2.8 and the 180/2.8 were the only ones I bought new, apart from the standard lens too.
Did you notice that the 50mm f/1.8 standard lens was the only one to have a plastic aperture ring? All the other lenses I've seen were metal. However the print on the plastic aperture ring was the best because the numbers were engraved more deeply and the paint stays pristine for longer. Ironic! I'm referring to the later Zuiko MC version but I assume it was probably the same on the older F. Zuiko model.
OM4 spot meter next please
My Olympus cameras have held up better then my small Nikons. However I usually grab the Nikon for a couple of reasons the battery is dead on my OM because I forgot to turn the meter off the last time I used it. Also I love the Matrix metering of my FA.
Really informative video, thank you
Another curiosity about the lenses. The 50mm f/1.8 and 28mm f/2.8 both have an extra metal ring on the back containing the bayonet, behind the ring with the more matt finish. Every other lens I've seen has the mount ring actually as part of that matt finish ring. It's a curious feature. I don't know if somehow that saved money in manufacture of those two perhaps slightly more common lenses. I wondered if your 28mm f/3.5 was the same.
Bro thank you!
your videos are very helpful
but, you could tell in more detail and in detail about the work of individual functions in such cameras! + if you watch a video with subtitles, they translate your story in a very simple way, after watching the video, the question remains, how to take a normal picture on such a camera?
I'm just guessing but popularity of 24mm is more from adapting to digital mirrorless cameras with apsc it gaves nice 35mm or 50mm with m4/3 :) that's the reason of higher prices in Poland and Europe of wide vintage glass.
And about om series, I have om1 till now and it's really like the jewel in slr world.
Anyone have any late model (Ser. # starting in 500) Black OM-2 bodies in ex. shape for sale ?
Well this is a bit of an 'eye-opener'. Twenty or so years ago I swapped my utterly awful, plasticky Canon EOS5 for an Olympus 0m2n with a 50mm f1.8 and a 135mm f4 lens which I still have but which I've almost never used. I'll have to dig it out.
How do you know when you need to change battery and how to do that?
I have 3 old Olympus SLR's which I picked up before film became cool again. My 2n is very nice, I bought it for the lenses it came with from a thrift store. The manual mode works great using the meter reading. The Automatic mode though holds the shutter open for 3 seconds plus almost always, including when you'd expect a 1/250th or faster shutter. Have you encountered this issue, is it something that may be reasonably fixed in your opinion? Thanks, I enjoy the videos, and love the Yashica I bought from you.
That's a little bit odd. Maybe there is a fault with the silicon cell in the base of the camera under the mirror. I think the manual exposure readings and indeed the estimates in auto mode come from a cadmium sulphide CdS cell somewhere in the viewfinder but the actual auto exposure is determined by the silicon cell based on light reflected from the shutter curtain or the film (on long exposures) when the mirror lifts after you press the shutter. That might explain why manual mode works and auto mode doesn't. If I'm correct, your viewfinder display would give sensible exposure indications even in auto mode, even though when you press the shutter the actual exposure will be wrong, as you describe.
If you take the lens off the camera, open the back and select B exposure and the press the shutter and hold ot down, you will see the silicon photo cell in the base of the camera interior. It should look like a kind of rectangular little glass bubble type lens from the back that presumably focuses the light from the shutter curtain that should have that weird random light and dark pixel type pattern on the front. Perhaps you could check to see if there is any dirt covering the lens on that cell or if it is missing or broken.
@@davebellamy4867 thanks!
Remember that the OM-2n (and most other auto OM cameras) are Off-The-Film cameras. That means there must be film in the camera (and a lens attached) for proper operation in Auto and Off modes. Otherwise the Silicone Blue Cells on the main circuit only see the black pressure plate! (The needle in the finder is an indicator ONLY! It does NOT actually control the camera.) To check the camera's operation, you can either load a "dummy" roll of film, or cut a piece of paper to place inside the back where the film normally sits. Then the actual shutter speed provided should approximate the indication in the finder.
If not, the contacts in the mode switch of the 2 and 2n are known to oxidize due to their age, resulting in longer and erratic exposures. This can be corrected during routine service by a properly trained and experienced Olympus tech. There are other possible causes to this sort of malfunction, but a good Olympus tech can diagnose and correct them.
Can you do the Horseman VH-R?
I have an Olympus OM10, and I am looking to upgrade, I have 2 lenses for it ( a 50mm 1.8 and a 100mm 2.8). I have had my eyes on switching completely to a Nikon fm2 system but they can have quiet the price tag these days. This camera (the om2) recently came up for sale in my area. Does it make sense for me to stay with Olympus and grow my lese collection or is the FM2 really that much better?
thanks!
The OM-2 is great, the closest Nikon camera would be the FE or FE2, the FM and FM2 are mechanical and manual only like the OM-1 ✌ I own an OM-1 and OM-2n, they are both a joy to use. The advance lever feels significantly smoother on the OM-2n, though, and I use the aperture priority a lot for low light photography where it's difficult to see the light meter needle in the viewfinder.
My OMG/OM20 is having issues loading the film. The take up spool wont rotate when i cock the shutter and spool the film on. Sometimes it works sometimes it doesn’t. I really like this small camera but that is a real headache. Not sure if I want to pick up another or just move on.
The take-up spool on virtually every 35mm camera is supposed to "slip" a little -- if it didn't, as more and more film wrapped around it, the spacing between frames would get larger and larger. But if the take-up spool slips freely, you've got a problem that an experienced Olympus tech needs to see. What drives the film a fixed amount with every frame is the sprocket. If it is the sprocket that is turning freely, sometimes the rewind release on the front of the camera (just below the release button) sticks horizontally -- it should spring to a vertical orientation as soon as the camera is next wound after rewinding a roll of film. That may be repaired, or you can simply be sure to turn it back vertically manually the next time you load film. Wind and make sure the sprocket doesn't slip before loading film.
One other thing to watch out for is to note that when loading film, the film leader must be put INTO, BUT NOT THROUGH the take-up spool. If you push the leader through the take-up spool so that it sticks out the other side, the spool will get too large, too quickly, and may begin skipping over the sprocket teeth, resulting in overlapping frames after 12 exposures or so.
Which Olympus camera would you say was the best one?
That's a tough question, but would have to be any of the models with the spot meter feature. I love the things I have been able to do with the OM4 Ti, it allows very creative and precise control of the the light which even the most modern digital cameras cannot.
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