Dave the amount of work and toil that has gone in to this build is really beginning to show results. I had no doubt it would look as good as it does. I have a Royal Aircraft Factory BE2c in 1/72 that needed rigging to complete it. Now I've seen this I'm not as scared to do it. However I can see my use of the word "bigger" increasing ten fold. Great video great work mate.
Thanks Dave for the heads up !! Just ordered some brass micro tubing from Burbank's Shop of Hobbies. With shipping about 12 bucks for 3 twelve inch pieces. Have a WW I craft waiting for rigging.... but you solved my problem. Thanks again.
G'day Dave, this video has become a true classic. I watch this regularly. It's an exercise in how to make a 'nightmare' job into one that is barely tolerable yet 'doable'. So, why do I watch this video when I specialise in WW2 and beyond aircraft? To remind me not to do this at all. No, wrong, I did have a go at this once. Last year (2021) a few mates and I were doing a multiple build of RAAF aircraft models to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the formation of the RAAF (BTW: the second oldest 'stand-alone' air force in the world, after the RAF). So, we decided we had to do a model of the very first aircraft type that the RAAF flew in its No.1 Squadron, in 1921. We drew straws and I 'won' the job of making this obscure biplane. It was a genuine nightmare for me. I tried and tried again. I must have gone through a couple of miles of that lovely stretchy rigging you used on your German WW1 kite in this video. I'm still vacuuming up your little tubular 'turnbuckles' out of my hobby room's 'carpet monster'. When I became way too stressed with the whole rigging caper, I carefully boxed up the model and posted it to one of my other mates in our little modelling group. I'm pleased to report that by the time it reached our third member, the model was rigged, in a fashion, and finished. So, this video is well known and popular among our group of 'non-riggers'. Thanks, Dave. Your 'easy' method worked for us..., eventually! Cheers, Bill H.
Hi Bill, thanks for getting in touch - that's a fantastic story! Heh heh :) I'm glad it finally got completed. Yeah, I have to say, good eyesight and a steady hand do make this task a little easier, it isn't an enjoyable chore but the results are worth it. Cheers mate, Dave
Looking forward to this. I'm just about to upload a review of the kit!! My version is kit number 32029. i have given this a shout out, so anyone who looks here will know I've done a review, if they look at my review they'll know to look here tonight.
Yip....thanks Nigel for the heads up! Now, time to look for more Wingnut Wings and Roden WWI birds....and you should get back to the Airfix 1/24 Hellcat! 😉😆😂
Hmmm, seems like this Premiere thing might not be the greatest invention ever. I thought I’d give it a try on this video, but so far it just seems to have annoyed you guys - that’s not ideal! Oh well, it was worth experimenting, but I don’t think I’ll bother with it again. Cheers guys, Dave
It's not that it was annoying, but as we are not used to it I felt like when I tell my kids they'll get a present, but only tomorrow. Meaning we are a bunch of spoiled brats. Keep the amazing job, Dave! Cheers from Brazil.
May I make a few suggestions? 1. Make your own tie-downs by creating a J shape hook about 2” long from 0.3mm (or whatever eye size you want) diameter wire. Make sure the short end of the J is rounded so the tie slips off. Mount the long end of J in in a pin vice. Loop a length of wire over the J, hold the wire in pliers, twiddle the pin vice and voila, a rigging tie. Trim to length. 2. Fishing line can be heat shrunk using soldering iron. 3. Fishing line can be coloured using a felt tip pin. 3. Use modified sewing needles to hold your cyano glue. Just grind off the end of the eye so you end up with two short prongs. Stick the pointy end in a short length of wooden BBQ skewer. Clean by holding over a flame. I love the prop!
Trevor Austin thanks very much, these are great tips. I’ve been meaning to make one of the glue applicators like you describe for a while, I think you just inspired me to. Cheers mate, Dave
I am just about to embark on some Roden 1/72nd scale WWI models. This video seems to be on a 1/32nd scale so will probably invest in the shrinking machine off the film 'Fantastic Voyage' because me thinks I will needs it!!!
Insert a needle or that very drill bit into the brass tube. Take a dap of superglue on the end of the needle and pickup the end of the line. Draw the line thru the tube by backing out the needle then snip the line!
Very good job showing both methods Dave. As you probably guessed by now everyone has an answer or opinion about the subject. My collection is 1/72 so you could imagine my grief to this subject. Being 200 Km. From nearest hobby store you need to be creative. Wire insulation from discarded electronic devices is handy. No need to waste brass. I also use a needle threader to pull a line through. Instead of paying outrageous prices for Ez line, I'm going to a sewing store to find elastic thread. Could be cheaper. On the subject of diheadral I believe the only remedie is opposite tension. Like torqueing down a cylinder head or mounting a tire. Do one side, then it's direct opposite. As you probably guessed makes the whole matter even more of a pain in the ass.
Mate, I wish I had been smart enough to do it methodically, doing one side and then its opposite. That would have made life easier in the long run, even though it would have been more painful in the short term...
@@DavesModelWorkshop I do mostly scratch builds and I'm very sensitive to this problem. My solution which, I admit, may not work for kits is to have wings very firmly attached to the fuselage. I use brass rods at appropriate locations into the sides of the fuselage at the wing root area. The wings I make are often hollow (see Harry Woodman method from old days of Scale Models). fine and dandy but what about a solid kit wing (some may be hollow too, i.e. two piece, upper, lower)? If solid maybe a hole may be drilled into end of wing and slid into/onto the rod. I's like a tab "A" into slot "B" assembly method that most kits have but more secure cuz the tab A is longer and stronger. Bonus is you can carefully adjust, by bending, sliding, this joint to ensure against anhedral or too much dihedral of the wing(s). I use CA to attach the wing to the rod BTW. When struts are added this wing assembly is strong and aligned, but like any modelling it is "fiddly", especially at first.
seeing this done for the first time ever I have 2 thoughts about threading the tubing on the line. 1. try putting both pieces of tubing on before attaching one end and just let them float in the middle until they are ready to attach, then you don't have to be as gentle. 2. instead of "threading a needle", try inserting the smallest wire possible through the tube, touch it to super glue and then the rigging filament until they barely join, and then gently pull the wire back out snaking the filament behind it. This could all be terribly impractical at that small scale, but it reminded me of pulling cable through conduit.
Very nice job, one comment though...wouldn't it be better to take the wing droop out by resting the wing tips on blocks and maybe even putting a temporary weight on fuselage to force wing tips up to neutral while rigging?
Great video Dave. I finally figure out how to rig an model aircraft (I think...) after watching videos like yours, doing research and experimenting. I believe the ez line works best as it will give when touched without breaking. I install rigging by gluing the eyelet to the model and running the ex line through a tube, then running the ex line through the eyelet and back through the tube and tension. I apply CA glue to the tube and cut the excess line. This looks very realistic. I was not sure how you did yours. It looks like you glued the ezline to the model and the inserted the tube. I would like to see a rigging of a 1/72 scale biplane. Now that is a challenge. I have rigged the airfix 1/ 72 Eiendecker with thin ezline. - but I can’t rig a 1/72 biplane. It is just too delicate.
I hear you David. I stay away from 1/72 aircraft, it's just too small a scale for me to enjoy building. And yes, I love the fact that EZ Line gives a little when touched, when I compare it to stretched sprue rigging which snaps off at the slightest touch there is no competition!
@@DavesModelWorkshop Not to brag, well maybe, I've done three Taubes!! Using the tips I've posted here. All to 1/72. but the real monoplane was surprisingly large about 50 foot wing span, so it's not that small in 1/72. It's not for the squeamish, but man it gets some looks on the model contest tables.
Really helpful, thank you! I’m new to rigging and I’m building a 1/400 Titanic model. Currently I’m working on rigging and I got my hands UNI-thread polyester. Would you recommend that as an alternative to what you used?
Well, as far as the content of the video it was very informative. As far as the premier part, was wondering if you were going to be live. After the opening countdown, kept waiting for the intermission to show up per Python.😆 Good job as always and remember, when you do the Lancaster you won’t have to worry about wing rigging.
Hey mate - yeah, I think that whole Premiere thing is a bit pointless now that I've experimented with it! Worth a try. Oh, the Lancaster... I guess no rigging is an entry on the PLUS side. On the CON side: cost, size, storage, etc etc etc!!! ;)
Just a couple of thoughts...ez line is great stuff and used to be my default, until I discovered some rigging material made by modelkasten...is isn’t quite as stretchy as ez line, but it does enough that you can create tension, but it’s a bit more like monofilament, which makes it easier to thread. Can’t find it here in the States, but I source mine thru BNA in Australia...so should be easy for you. Also, you might want to check out Bobs Buckles in the UK. He makes eyelets and precut brass tubing in various lengths. His prices are reasonable (I think) and is worth it to get consistent lengths and save the hassle of cutting them yourself.
I just got some EZ Line for a 1/48 Curtis Goshawk. If it goes well (I think it will) I'm getting a WNW kit. I've seen them at shows and love the detail but have been scared off by the rigging till a guy at a model show was demonstrating EZ Line. (Although he used it for aerials on a Corsair the concept is the same.) I'll probably get a monoplane like yours first just to avoid the rigging between the wings. (Already doing that on the Goshawk!) Do you have a tutorial on the painting method you used on the prop? It looks fantastic!
Hello Dave, I haven’t actually tried this myself, but I was watching a rigging video a few months ago where a modeller was demonstrating rigging, and they used a little trick you might like. He put a small dot of CA glue on the connection point just as you do, but he dipped the end of the rigging string in ‘kicker’ so that when he touched the string to the glue dot - it bonded instantly. Sorry I can’t remember who it was, so I can’t give them credit.
when doing ww1 aircraft even though rigging may be last thing, think early in the build to prepare for it, like preparing rigging attachments that will be tough to get to later, to save some frustration later.
There is a video of a guy taking q tips (ear swabs) made with plastic tubes. He heated the tube and stretched it making thin plastic tubes. Lot less heavy than the brass.
Thanks for the tutorial Dave, entertaining and informative as usual, worth the wait and gives me some hope that I can do rigging! How did you keep your temper? Lol!
You know I think that will take me at least two steps closer to building that Camel! Bobs Buckles though, Ron‘s right they do look amazing. Not that the brass tubing isn‘t effective Dave. Might use that approach first. Dave.
Hi Dave, good to hear from you mate. Yeah, Bob's Buckles are very effective, they are truer to scale, I can't deny. Sometimes my own cheapness gets the better of me... ;)
@@DavesModelWorkshop I use a cheap alternative for turnbuckles. Back to fishing, you gather I've done that a bit! I use long shank fly fishing hooks of many scale sizes. cut of hook, keep length of shank with eye end. Drill holes and insert in wing with super glue. some blobs of PVA can model the rest of the turnbuckle. But what ever you do guys never lose track of the tiny hook end; you don't want to find that in your pajamas one night! I immediately I cut it off, place on piece of tape, that to be folded upon itself later to safely discard the hook end!
Great video Dave, Thank You. I'm getting ready to rig 1/48 Eduard Albatros D.111 & Fokker Dr.1. I'm thinking of using EZ-Line Heavy at .006", and going with 0.6mm brass tubing. Do ya think that'll be OK? Thanks
did the brass tubes get glued in place? I dint see that bit and they appear to be staying in place on the underside so Im guessing they are. Also it might be easier to secure the rigging thread in the tube then push the tube into the wing slot. more contact surface.
I know, I need to fix that... I expected the tension to fix it, but the little tripod thing that the rigging mounted to wasn't strong enough to take all that tension.
@@DavesModelWorkshop I think stretchy rigging on a monoplane would be more of a problem than on a biplane, since those 2 wings are already set properly alignment, gap, stagger, dihedral, incidence-wise, most likely; but I'm a confirmed monofilament user as I've said above.
hi Dave thanks alot for sharing :-) i wonder if your tweezers is the 74004 from tamiya ? would help if you could find out, i need one just like that you use there , im gonna start on the wnw NINAK , first time for me .
Hi Tim, they are Tamiya tweezers, and they look exactly like the 74004, but they don't have the branding on the side, so I can't tell you if they are *exactly* that pair. But they are pretty damn close if they aren't. I hope that helps. Dave
What model plane that? I know the base of it is a eindecker monoplane but that had single machine gun, was there variant with 2 machine guns or it completely different plane?
The color is close to the wrapping on the real planes, very smooth so it's easy to thread the rigging through , takes ca glue very well, and it's easier to cut than brass. There's a wwI modeling site which has a lot of great tips, tutorials, and photos of the real planes as well as models. WWIaircraftmodels.com
@@DavesModelWorkshop well, fluoro and mono have good stretch, the reason why I didn't include braid is because it has 0 stretch, I recommend fluoro because it's clearer and a lot thinner compared to mono.
Wings are still bent a bit down. If you build great war biplane in 1/72 scale, rigging cannot be visible. So do it 1/72 and forget about rigging nightmares.
Now that I've tackled it on my Fokker, I plan to go back and re-do the rigging on all my other WW2 fighters. Stretched sprue just isn't as good as EZ Line.
For those with an interest in WW1 and WW2 aircraft. www.classicfighters.co.nz/classic-fighters-airshow.php. Last day to get an early bird ticket.31/10/2018. Should be on everyone's bucket list.
While I generally like Ammo products, their repack of Uschi Van Der Rosten rigging is way overpriced. Ammo - 4.50 EUR for 2 meters Uschi - 10.50 EUR for 45 meters
You've made a mistake with this mate. Premier kills video views. Best take it down and upload it normally. Check out the latest Strange Parts video where he explains what RUclips Premier just did to his. But otherwise I'll be watching 👍
Thanks bniall. Good to have that feedback. I don't think I'll bother with it again, it seems much better suited to social media wannabee star types! :D
@@DavesModelWorkshop Good tutorial mate. If my hands didnt shake from breaking them too many times id give it ago... I just finished the meng Panther ausf A with its billion piece tracks. I keep saying never again with the tiny fiddly parts but yet I keep buying them and one day I can see myself walking out of a model shop with a wingnuts plane along with all these rigging bits and as soon as I step outside the door I'll cry having realised what I just did to myself.
I know, I need to fix that... I expected the tension to fix it, but the little tripod thing that the rigging mounted to wasn't strong enough to take all that tension.
@@TheDemon190 it may only take a couple of strands but try to replace some of the stretchy line with some monofilament of similar diameter. I like fly fishing tippet.
@@DavesModelWorkshop I mostly do scratch builds but come to sites like yours to get tips. Some parts in model kits are a bit weak to take a lot of tension as you indicate, but could be replaced with at least a partial replacement of something like brass strip. Painting that can be a bit of a chore to get it to stick properly though. a product called Mister Metal Primer-R has helped me, then prime that, then paint. Another great substitute is carbon fiber strip and rod, which I use for wing struts. Extremely strong, but tricky to cut and work with, I'm afraid of the dust, so use a mask.
Dave the amount of work and toil that has gone in to this build is really beginning to show results. I had no doubt it would look as good as it does. I have a Royal Aircraft Factory BE2c in 1/72 that needed rigging to complete it. Now I've seen this I'm not as scared to do it. However I can see my use of the word "bigger" increasing ten fold.
Great video great work mate.
Thanks Bilko. I won't lie, it is intimidating to contemplate, but once you get a feel for it, it is just a process and you find a groove.
Just about making a 1/72 Albatros, hoping itll turn out nicely.
Yes Dave , keep it simple (kiss) . My 1/32 Sopwith rigging tested my patience . Went with EZ line all smiles after . Great Work 👍
KISS is always a good axiom to live by :) Cheers mate, Dave
Cheers Dave, I've been scared of WW1 rigging- I might give it a go after seeing your vid.
Subscribed!
Thanks Justin! Welcome aboard!
Thanks Dave for the heads up !! Just ordered some brass micro tubing from Burbank's Shop of Hobbies. With shipping about 12 bucks for 3 twelve inch pieces. Have a WW I craft waiting for rigging.... but you solved my problem. Thanks again.
Cheers Monty. i'm glad to be of assistance. Look, it's not perfect, but it's a good solution. Cheers, Dave
G'day Dave, this video has become a true classic. I watch this regularly. It's an exercise in how to make a 'nightmare' job into one that is barely tolerable yet 'doable'. So, why do I watch this video when I specialise in WW2 and beyond aircraft?
To remind me not to do this at all.
No, wrong, I did have a go at this once. Last year (2021) a few mates and I were doing a multiple build of RAAF aircraft models to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the formation of the RAAF (BTW: the second oldest 'stand-alone' air force in the world, after the RAF).
So, we decided we had to do a model of the very first aircraft type that the RAAF flew in its No.1 Squadron, in 1921.
We drew straws and I 'won' the job of making this obscure biplane. It was a genuine nightmare for me. I tried and tried again. I must have gone through a couple of miles of that lovely stretchy rigging you used on your German WW1 kite in this video.
I'm still vacuuming up your little tubular 'turnbuckles' out of my hobby room's 'carpet monster'.
When I became way too stressed with the whole rigging caper, I carefully boxed up the model and posted it to one of my other mates in our little modelling group.
I'm pleased to report that by the time it reached our third member, the model was rigged, in a fashion, and finished.
So, this video is well known and popular among our group of 'non-riggers'. Thanks, Dave. Your 'easy' method worked for us..., eventually! Cheers, Bill H.
Hi Bill, thanks for getting in touch - that's a fantastic story! Heh heh :) I'm glad it finally got completed. Yeah, I have to say, good eyesight and a steady hand do make this task a little easier, it isn't an enjoyable chore but the results are worth it. Cheers mate, Dave
Looking forward to this. I'm just about to upload a review of the kit!! My version is kit number 32029. i have given this a shout out, so anyone who looks here will know I've done a review, if they look at my review they'll know to look here tonight.
Yip....thanks Nigel for the heads up!
Now, time to look for more Wingnut Wings and Roden WWI birds....and you should get back to the Airfix 1/24 Hellcat! 😉😆😂
Very helpful. Thank you :)
Hmmm, seems like this Premiere thing might not be the greatest invention ever. I thought I’d give it a try on this video, but so far it just seems to have annoyed you guys - that’s not ideal! Oh well, it was worth experimenting, but I don’t think I’ll bother with it again. Cheers guys, Dave
The video was great, but the "coming soon" bit was annoying
It's not that it was annoying, but as we are not used to it I felt like when I tell my kids they'll get a present, but only tomorrow.
Meaning we are a bunch of spoiled brats.
Keep the amazing job, Dave!
Cheers from Brazil.
I don't understand the reference to 'Premiere'.
@@daveday5507 Take a look at this Dave ruclips.net/video/43o_pBtrIYw/видео.html
@@daveday5507 it was a way to supposedly generate interest with my audience, promoting the video as "coming soon" before it actually went live.
Very helpful video, and I will pull this up when I rig my next WWI aircraft! As an added bonus, you picked up a new subscriber.
Welcome aboard!
Thank you! I'm building my first biplane (Airfix 1/48 Hawker Fury I) for my Grandpa's birthday and had no idea how to go about doing the rigging.
good luck with it. hope it works out well and you're happy with it :)
May I make a few suggestions? 1. Make your own tie-downs by creating a J shape hook about 2” long from 0.3mm (or whatever eye size you want) diameter wire. Make sure the short end of the J is rounded so the tie slips off. Mount the long end of J in in a pin vice. Loop a length of wire over the J, hold the wire in pliers, twiddle the pin vice and voila, a rigging tie. Trim to length. 2. Fishing line can be heat shrunk using soldering iron. 3. Fishing line can be coloured using a felt tip pin. 3. Use modified sewing needles to hold your cyano glue. Just grind off the end of the eye so you end up with two short prongs. Stick the pointy end in a short length of wooden BBQ skewer. Clean by holding over a flame.
I love the prop!
Trevor Austin thanks very much, these are great tips. I’ve been meaning to make one of the glue applicators like you describe for a while, I think you just inspired me to. Cheers mate, Dave
I am just about to embark on some Roden 1/72nd scale WWI models. This video seems to be on a 1/32nd scale so will probably invest in the shrinking machine off the film 'Fantastic Voyage' because me thinks I will needs it!!!
Yes David, you are correct, this was 1/32 scale. You are a brave man tackling this in 1/72! Best of luck.
I agree that The on the Bench podcast rocks👍🏻
Great video, thank you so much! Trying to improve and your videos are a great help.
Thanks Ed!
Insert a needle or that very drill bit into the brass tube. Take a dap of superglue on the end of the needle and pickup the end of the line. Draw the line thru the tube by backing out the needle then snip the line!
Very good job showing both methods Dave. As you probably guessed by now everyone has an answer or opinion about the subject. My collection is 1/72 so you could imagine my grief to this subject. Being 200 Km. From nearest hobby store you need to be creative. Wire insulation from discarded electronic devices is handy. No need to waste brass. I also use a needle threader to pull a line through. Instead of paying outrageous prices for Ez line, I'm going to a sewing store to find elastic thread. Could be cheaper. On the subject of diheadral I believe the only remedie is opposite tension. Like torqueing down a cylinder head or mounting a tire. Do one side, then it's direct opposite. As you probably guessed makes the whole matter even more of a pain in the ass.
Mate, I wish I had been smart enough to do it methodically, doing one side and then its opposite. That would have made life easier in the long run, even though it would have been more painful in the short term...
@@DavesModelWorkshop there lies the paradox. Get it done, or take my time? "Sigh" lol...
@@DavesModelWorkshop I do mostly scratch builds and I'm very sensitive to this problem. My solution which, I admit, may not work for kits is to have wings very firmly attached to the fuselage. I use brass rods at appropriate locations into the sides of the fuselage at the wing root area. The wings I make are often hollow (see Harry Woodman method from old days of Scale Models). fine and dandy but what about a solid kit wing (some may be hollow too, i.e. two piece, upper, lower)? If solid maybe a hole may be drilled into end of wing and slid into/onto the rod. I's like a tab "A" into slot "B" assembly method that most kits have but more secure cuz the tab A is longer and stronger. Bonus is you can carefully adjust, by bending, sliding, this joint to ensure against anhedral or too much dihedral of the wing(s). I use CA to attach the wing to the rod BTW. When struts are added this wing assembly is strong and aligned, but like any modelling it is "fiddly", especially at first.
seeing this done for the first time ever I have 2 thoughts about threading the tubing on the line. 1. try putting both pieces of tubing on before attaching one end and just let them float in the middle until they are ready to attach, then you don't have to be as gentle. 2. instead of "threading a needle", try inserting the smallest wire possible through the tube, touch it to super glue and then the rigging filament until they barely join, and then gently pull the wire back out snaking the filament behind it.
This could all be terribly impractical at that small scale, but it reminded me of pulling cable through conduit.
Very good job!
Very nice job, one comment though...wouldn't it be better to take the wing droop out by resting the wing tips on blocks and maybe even putting a temporary weight on fuselage to force wing tips up to neutral while rigging?
Great video Dave. I finally figure out how to rig an model aircraft (I think...) after watching videos like yours, doing research and experimenting. I believe the ez line works best as it will give when touched without breaking. I install rigging by gluing the eyelet to the model and running the ex line through a tube, then running the ex line through the eyelet and back through the tube and tension. I apply CA glue to the tube and cut the excess line. This looks very realistic. I was not sure how you did yours. It looks like you glued the ezline to the model and the inserted the tube. I would like to see a rigging of a 1/72 scale biplane. Now that is a challenge. I have rigged the airfix 1/ 72 Eiendecker with thin ezline. - but I can’t rig a 1/72 biplane. It is just too delicate.
I hear you David. I stay away from 1/72 aircraft, it's just too small a scale for me to enjoy building. And yes, I love the fact that EZ Line gives a little when touched, when I compare it to stretched sprue rigging which snaps off at the slightest touch there is no competition!
Excellent Tutorial Dave, Thanks for Sharing n Your plane is even More Awesome than Before 😎😎,,God Bless All
Thanks Gary :)
Great timing on the video! I have an Eduard S.E.5a that I'm going to be rigging very soon :-)
Whoa, there is a LOT of rigging on an S.E.5a - you're going to be busy! ;)
@@DavesModelWorkshop Not to brag, well maybe, I've done three Taubes!! Using the tips I've posted here. All to 1/72. but the real monoplane was surprisingly large about 50 foot wing span, so it's not that small in 1/72. It's not for the squeamish, but man it gets some looks on the model contest tables.
Really helpful, thank you! I’m new to rigging and I’m building a 1/400 Titanic model. Currently I’m working on rigging and I got my hands UNI-thread polyester. Would you recommend that as an alternative to what you used?
Well, as far as the content of the video it was very informative. As far as the premier part, was wondering if you were going to be live. After the opening countdown, kept waiting for the intermission to show up per Python.😆 Good job as always and remember, when you do the Lancaster you won’t have to worry about wing rigging.
Hey mate - yeah, I think that whole Premiere thing is a bit pointless now that I've experimented with it! Worth a try. Oh, the Lancaster... I guess no rigging is an entry on the PLUS side. On the CON side: cost, size, storage, etc etc etc!!! ;)
Just a couple of thoughts...ez line is great stuff and used to be my default, until I discovered some rigging material made by modelkasten...is isn’t quite as stretchy as ez line, but it does enough that you can create tension, but it’s a bit more like monofilament, which makes it easier to thread. Can’t find it here in the States, but I source mine thru BNA in Australia...so should be easy for you. Also, you might want to check out Bobs Buckles in the UK. He makes eyelets and precut brass tubing in various lengths. His prices are reasonable (I think) and is worth it to get consistent lengths and save the hassle of cutting them yourself.
I;m going to have to look into that Ron. Thanks for the heads-up!
I too am using exclusively modelkasten's rigging material, it is way better than both EZ line and Monofilament!
@@ssasho0463 I'll check that out too!
I just got some EZ Line for a 1/48 Curtis Goshawk. If it goes well (I think it will) I'm getting a WNW kit. I've seen them at shows and love the detail but have been scared off by the rigging till a guy at a model show was demonstrating EZ Line. (Although he used it for aerials on a Corsair the concept is the same.) I'll probably get a monoplane like yours first just to avoid the rigging between the wings. (Already doing that on the Goshawk!) Do you have a tutorial on the painting method you used on the prop? It looks fantastic!
Amazing the superglue can grab onto something so thin? Thanks for the information and tips 😉
Hello Dave, I haven’t actually tried this myself, but I was watching a rigging video a few months ago where a modeller was demonstrating rigging, and they used a little trick you might like. He put a small dot of CA glue on the connection point just as you do, but he dipped the end of the rigging string in ‘kicker’ so that when he touched the string to the glue dot - it bonded instantly.
Sorry I can’t remember who it was, so I can’t give them credit.
Derek Downunder It was in Andy’s hobby HQ video starting around 26th minute
ruclips.net/video/PExLikAHc70/видео.html
That's a great idea. So much easier. I'll look into that for next time. Thanks Derek!
I have a Roden 1/32 Albatros d.iii that will need rigging soon. This should be helpful.
An Albatross D.III has about the same number of lines of rigging as my Fokker E.IV, so I hope so :)
when doing ww1 aircraft even though rigging may be last thing, think early in the build to prepare for it, like preparing rigging attachments that will be tough to get to later, to save some frustration later.
There is a video of a guy taking q tips (ear swabs) made with plastic tubes. He heated the tube and stretched it making thin plastic tubes. Lot less heavy than the brass.
That's exactly what I was thinking. I'm into building my 1/72 Airfix EIII right now. Probably I'm gonna use stretched sprue and stretched tube.
Nice idea. I guess what I like about the brass is I know it is a consistent internal diameter, but I can see the beauty of the stretched Q-tips
Beautiful model and thanks for sharing your technique.
Thank you!
Thanks for the tutorial Dave, entertaining and informative as usual, worth the wait and gives me some hope that I can do rigging! How did you keep your temper? Lol!
Mate, if I'm being honest, there were a couple of swear words I edited out...
You know I think that will take me at least two steps closer to building that Camel! Bobs Buckles though, Ron‘s right they do look amazing. Not that the brass tubing isn‘t effective Dave. Might use that approach first. Dave.
Hi Dave, good to hear from you mate. Yeah, Bob's Buckles are very effective, they are truer to scale, I can't deny. Sometimes my own cheapness gets the better of me... ;)
@@DavesModelWorkshop I use a cheap alternative for turnbuckles. Back to fishing, you gather I've done that a bit! I use long shank fly fishing hooks of many scale sizes. cut of hook, keep length of shank with eye end. Drill holes and insert in wing with super glue. some blobs of PVA can model the rest of the turnbuckle. But what ever you do guys never lose track of the tiny hook end; you don't want to find that in your pajamas one night! I immediately I cut it off, place on piece of tape, that to be folded upon itself later to safely discard the hook end!
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Fabulous video, clearest explanation I’ve yes seen, thank you
*yet
Nice! Looking forward!
My next build i will be installing the eyelets before painting the wings
Its a great video but can AK's rigging last the test of time or they become loose after a few years I wonder..
After 5 years, the rigging on this model is still as taut and tight as the day I completed it.
Great video Dave, Thank You. I'm getting ready to rig 1/48 Eduard Albatros D.111 & Fokker Dr.1. I'm thinking of using EZ-Line Heavy at .006", and going with 0.6mm brass tubing. Do ya think that'll be OK? Thanks
It sounds ok to me Slougo.
Thanks for replying. Hey, been awhile sense you made some Magic!
Great vid!
My only question is the tube setup size for a 1/48 scale. Same .7mm but shorter in length?
John Beckman I’d say so, maybe 2/3 the length that I used?
Nice tips.👍
Thanks Charlie :) Dave
did the brass tubes get glued in place? I dint see that bit and they appear to be staying in place on the underside so Im guessing they are. Also it might be easier to secure the rigging thread in the tube then push the tube into the wing slot. more contact surface.
They did end up glued in position, but only through a bit of the glue congealing around the contact point on the wings.
At our local model show Wingnut Wings scooped the pool in their class.
Same here, every time for the last ten years or so!
Great video, shame about the dihedral on those wings, didn't seem to improve after the top rigging.
I know, I need to fix that... I expected the tension to fix it, but the little tripod thing that the rigging mounted to wasn't strong enough to take all that tension.
@@DavesModelWorkshop I think stretchy rigging on a monoplane would be more of a problem than on a biplane, since those 2 wings are already set properly alignment, gap, stagger, dihedral, incidence-wise, most likely; but I'm a confirmed monofilament user as I've said above.
hi Dave thanks alot for sharing :-) i wonder if your tweezers is the 74004 from tamiya ? would help if you could find out, i need one just like that you use there , im gonna start on the wnw NINAK , first time for me .
Hi Tim, they are Tamiya tweezers, and they look exactly like the 74004, but they don't have the branding on the side, so I can't tell you if they are *exactly* that pair. But they are pretty damn close if they aren't. I hope that helps. Dave
Can’t wait!
Heh heh, I hope it lives up to your expectations Bugler ;)
Always does mate!
@@DavesModelWorkshop thanks for doing this, Dave; it takes some bravery and I salute you. Happy model building every one : ) Ron
What model plane that? I know the base of it is a eindecker monoplane but that had single machine gun, was there variant with 2 machine guns or it completely different plane?
It is the Wingnut Wings Fokker E.IV
Now that's a bummer.
I was like wow! Finally! And then the sadness...
Guess I'll wait.
Soon, Danilo, I promise! :)
Same here...I was all YAY...and then sadness.
@@JDsHouseofHobbies Yeah, I don't think I'll bother with the Premiere experiment again...
Lovely detail work, but the dihedral still needed fixing?
OMG - I think you're right! Aargh!
I forgot... Good looking model also
Heh heh, thanks Eeltje!
The turnbuckles were only of one end of teh wire - usually where it is easier to service for the mechanics. The other side had just an eylet ;)
Ah, thanks Aleksander. I may have to reassess that...
Instead of brass tubing try polymide tube. It's a little pricey but looks great, better than the brass.
Hi Robert, thanks for the tip. What makes it better?
The color is close to the wrapping on the real planes, very smooth so it's easy to thread the rigging through , takes ca glue very well, and it's easier to cut than brass. There's a wwI modeling site which has a lot of great tips, tutorials, and photos of the real planes as well as models. WWIaircraftmodels.com
Thanks Robert - i'm going to check it out. Cheers mate.
Dave can you send me the name of where you bought that brass tubing in the size you're using I would appreciate it
Sprue Brothers Models LLC. Has Albion Brass tubing. It's like $6-7 for like 3 tubes. I just ordered 0.6mm tubing for 1/48 biplane.
If you dab the ez line in a bit of superglue accelerator it stick instantly it touches the glue.
I found if I did that the EZ Line curled and twisted and kinked before I had a chance to then move it to where I wanted it.
Any fishing line under 4lbs that is monofiliment works or fluorocarbon that is under 8lbs works.
Does fishing line have that stretch effect though? The stretch is what makes the EZ Line a lot easier to work with, I find.
@@DavesModelWorkshop well, fluoro and mono have good stretch, the reason why I didn't include braid is because it has 0 stretch, I recommend fluoro because it's clearer and a lot thinner compared to mono.
A +1 on the premiere thingy but mostly for threading the tube
Threading the tube is a horror the first time you do it, but I did find it got easier with practice.
@@DavesModelWorkshop I'm building the 1/48 scale Ni-11 so smaller tubes ...
Very good, but I’m not convinced that this is any easier than making turnbuckles. Threading the brass tubes is more tedious than making a turnbuckle.
You know what, you might be right! It was a tedious process - Dave
Wings are still bent a bit down. If you build great war biplane in 1/72 scale, rigging cannot be visible. So do it 1/72 and forget about rigging nightmares.
i might doe this for my 1/72 i 15
Now that I've tackled it on my Fokker, I plan to go back and re-do the rigging on all my other WW2 fighters. Stretched sprue just isn't as good as EZ Line.
I'm sure this will be a great video - But i'll be asleep when it premieres :(
Didn't expect to see you here.
A and M why’s that?
For those with an interest in WW1 and WW2 aircraft. www.classicfighters.co.nz/classic-fighters-airshow.php. Last day to get an early bird ticket.31/10/2018. Should be on everyone's bucket list.
While I generally like Ammo products, their repack of Uschi Van Der Rosten rigging is way overpriced.
Ammo - 4.50 EUR for 2 meters
Uschi - 10.50 EUR for 45 meters
Oh c'mon. I have to wait for another 12 minutes
Assembling pyramids of BB's is nothing in comparison.. Mon Dieu!
Great job but me thinks the wiring is to thin. Just saying...
You've made a mistake with this mate. Premier kills video views. Best take it down and upload it normally. Check out the latest Strange Parts video where he explains what RUclips Premier just did to his. But otherwise I'll be watching 👍
Thanks bniall. Good to have that feedback. I don't think I'll bother with it again, it seems much better suited to social media wannabee star types! :D
@@DavesModelWorkshop Good tutorial mate. If my hands didnt shake from breaking them too many times id give it ago... I just finished the meng Panther ausf A with its billion piece tracks. I keep saying never again with the tiny fiddly parts but yet I keep buying them and one day I can see myself walking out of a model shop with a wingnuts plane along with all these rigging bits and as soon as I step outside the door I'll cry having realised what I just did to myself.
@@bniall Oh no! Don't do that! Buy it and take it as a challenge mate!
Aaah! Only watching this is nerve wrecking. I‘ll stick with the tanks. No beautiful planes for this guy.
But I will. :)
Heh heh, I'm glad you did :)
Thank you Dave for doing this video, it's very helpful.
Didn't pull out the anhedral I see
I know, I need to fix that... I expected the tension to fix it, but the little tripod thing that the rigging mounted to wasn't strong enough to take all that tension.
@@DavesModelWorkshop mine did the same not sure what to do unless I rerig the top with more tension 😣
@@TheDemon190 it may only take a couple of strands but try to replace some of the stretchy line with some monofilament of similar diameter. I like fly fishing tippet.
@@DavesModelWorkshop I mostly do scratch builds but come to sites like yours to get tips. Some parts in model kits are a bit weak to take a lot of tension as you indicate, but could be replaced with at least a partial replacement of something like brass strip. Painting that can be a bit of a chore to get it to stick properly though. a product called Mister Metal Primer-R has helped me, then prime that, then paint. Another great substitute is carbon fiber strip and rod, which I use for wing struts. Extremely strong, but tricky to cut and work with, I'm afraid of the dust, so use a mask.