You can ALSO use a "Dry Brush" of acrylic paints in darker and lighter tones to simulate "Wood Grain" effects. These techniques can ALSO be applied to ANY "WOOD" parts! Seats, Side Panels, Struts, Etc.
If you want to simulate MORE "Layers" just add more lines! But YES THIS is SPOT ON! WELL DONE! I LOVE Your Vidz Dave! I build WWI in 1/72 but the same effects all apply! :D
Nice vid Dave. Reminds me of your , how to wood effects. Very nice Eindecker. Will look great above your helmets. If you need some steel effects, raid the pencil sharpener. The graphite is very convincing if you use it like Mig pigments. Cheers mate.
I found your tutorial interesting, and very much enjoyed your commentary, educative/instructive as well as entertaining/down to earth. Regarding your mentioning application of gloss for the purists, I would have thought that your leaving the satin/semi-gloss finish; rather than applying gloss afterward; would have a truer to scale gloss look about it. Wouldn't the application of glossy finish coats appear out of scale? In any case, in my opinion, I think your finish, on that scale, does look glossy and true to scale, I am so impressed with your work, and Thank You for your inspiring, entertaining videos, Have Fun, Carlos.
HI Carlos, thank you for your kind words. In hindsight (I did this video a couple of years ago) I think a semi-gloss or satin finish would look better - agreed. Dave
@@DavesModelWorkshop I didn't realise how many of your postings I've been enjoying over the past three or four years. Will you be having any exhibitions; or engaging in any upcoming competitions in Melbourne, or Yarraville? I've noticed your love of local buildings, and would love the opportunity to see your handiwork first hand, Carlos.
@@carlosallende2595 Thanks so much :) I had an exhibition earlier this year (June 2022) - hopefully I'll have another mid-2023? If you follow me on Instagram (just search for David Hourigan Miniature Artist) it's the best source for news of upcoming shows. Cheers, Dave
Fantasic job Dave,outstanding look,some great tips & ideas here,I have 4 WNW kits in my stash,including the twin engined Gotha bomber,so i will definately be giving these techniques a try for sure when the time comes for sure,cheers
The Gotha,now out of production of course,I picked up mine second hand through a guy on ebay for just under $200,I was the third bidder,the shipping was the killer though but,got a set of white metal landing gear from the UK for it as well,seeing as it's such a large,fragile aircraft once built,also got a manual called building the wingnut wings Gotha G.IV. from France that is also now out of print,so it's kinda an all round the world aircraft My Gotha you might say?,lol,also heard a whisper on RUclips somewhere awhile back that WNW maybe going to release the later war,last version of the Gotha at some stage as well?,cheers
Ha ha,hope to get started on it early in the new year sometime man?,too many other things on my bench ATM on the go,I have cars,planes,tanks & amoured vehicles,figures & a couple of ships,getting the time to do them all is the killer I'm afraid?,I have many kits in my stash,sold a lot of my car stuff off a few years back when I got back into military modelling after about a 30 break?,but this year I got back into doing cars again as I love doing cars most of all,closely followed by aircraft,I wouldn't mind doing the lozenge pattern camouflage on the Gotha if I could eh?,cheers
Heh heh, Hanley, you have caught me out as the lazy bugger I am. It was the closest clean mixing surface, I was too lazy to get up and walk a metre and a half to get a proper pallette! ;)
Hi Dave, having watched your how to paint realistic wooden propellers I tried to replicate your method for my Fokker DR1 prop. All was going really well until I applied the oil wash which just stripped the base acrylic paints off 😮. I used Liquitex heavy body acrylic Burnt Sienna for the dark wood and a 60:40 mix of white Pebeo acrylic with the burnt sienna for the light wood. Then I mixed some Windsor and Newton Burnt Unber oil with Tamiya 400 levelling thinner and applied the wash. After the first coat the base acrylics lifted and bubbled and in some areas completely lifted leaving the red plastic showing through. Should I use a different thinner with the oil for the wash?
Hmm, that's a tricky one. Did you apply a primer? I'd try applying a solid coat of primer first, so you can't get back down to bare plastic. Maybe a slightly thicker acrylic layer, if you won't lose too much detail? You're doing everything right, it might just be a little too much for those foundation layers if they're a bit thin? Good luck.
@@DavesModelWorkshop thanks Dave, as you mentioned that enamel paints wouldn’t work with the oil wash I’ve given the prop a single coat of Humbrol Matt Brown as a “primer” and now in the process of applying the acrylic light snd dark wood coats. A friend also suggested not to use the Mr Hobby 400 thinner but to use a straight “white Spirit” to thin the oil burnt umber oil paint so will try that and let you know. Cheers Paul B
Brill stuff Dave ! I always struggle to paint wood. I got it perfect on my tiger build for the wooden block but I forgot what I used !! Lol !! Anyway him going to try some of these bits on my bits of wood I'll no doubt have in a project ! Hope you are all well matey
Ahhh, Chris, I have a strong love for the Lanc - it's one of my top 3 favourite aircraft of WW2. But I have neither the display space nor budget for one of them in 1/32 scale!
your last comment struck me... Yesterday I watched your video "When do Scale Models Become Art?" and you had me convinced they are indeed art... and yet in this video you say the opportunities to be "artistic" are few and far between. (PS I think the way you apply glue is artistic! LOL)
The Fokker reminds me story about the RAF hero Douglas Bader when was giving a talk at an upmarket girl’s school about his time as a pilot in the Second World War.“So there were two of the f***ers behind me, three f***ers to my right, another f***er on the left,’ he told the audience. The headmistress went pale and interjected: ‘Ladies, the Fokker was a German aircraft.’ Sir Douglas replied: ‘That may be madam, but these f***ers were in Messerschmitts’.”
Dave's Model Workshop I ended up just brushing thinner into the propeller and that made it better but the results did not truly shine until I sprayed a gloss coat over it. Really looks great now. That oil paint was totally different from the paints I normally use.
My god, a model maker who remembers how to use a PAINT BRUSH!!!! I salute you.
Heh heh, thank you Carfilliot! :)
That’s wood, Dave!!!!! Absolutely convincing, mate. Ian
Thanks mate, I'm humbled!
That Scale-a-ton method looks even better!
Wow! It does look like the real thing Dave! Great tip and great job on that prop! Thanks man!
Thanks Hensley.
that was a big help,thanks friend...I am working on a Fokker DR.I and the prop was quite worrisome until now...
I've watched this like three times this year. Totally meditative.
Excellent! I've had some people suggest I should do ASMR videos, but there are too many people already doing that! :D
Haha no way! Just keep up the good work. No other channel has your vibe💯
Absolutely awesome result and superb tutorial, Thank a lot!
Thank you, I’m glad you like it!
I find airbrushing the colors seems to work best!
Not sure if you can do this Dave... But I would LOVE to see a Tutorial on "Spun Aluminum" like how they had on the cowls of Eindeckers back then?!
Beautifull model. Can´t wait for your aluminium texture tutorial.
It's definitely in the pipeline Soeren, I promise.
Cracking video, Dave. This tutorial is really going to help with my build. Thank you.
Thank you! I hope it comes out well for you :)
That looks fantastic, Dave.
Thank you sir. How've you been lately? What are you building at the moment?
Gorgeous, Dave. Very convincing.
Thanks, Triruns :)
Excellent video sir! Thanks sooooo much for sharing!
My pleasure!
"That's wood, Dave!" Great work!
Looks really nice
Thank you!
Great wood Dave. It looks so realistic.
Thanks Bilko. Cheers mate :)
You can ALSO use a "Dry Brush" of acrylic paints in darker and lighter tones to simulate "Wood Grain" effects.
These techniques can ALSO be applied to ANY "WOOD" parts! Seats, Side Panels, Struts, Etc.
Very true. I love dry brushing, one of my favourite techniques.
If you want to simulate MORE "Layers" just add more lines! But YES THIS is SPOT ON!
WELL DONE! I LOVE Your Vidz Dave! I build WWI in 1/72 but the same effects all apply! :D
Thank you sir!
Absolutely brilliant many thanks this will make my DR1 a lot easier
Thanks for this. Do you not find the white spirit removes the acrylic?
Not if I use it sparingly. If I slosh it on it does affect the base acrylic, but with a subtle touch it is safe.
Awesome tutorial Dave !!!!
very well done good technique
Thanks Patrick :)
Nice vid Dave. Reminds me of your , how to wood effects. Very nice Eindecker. Will look great above your helmets. If you need some steel effects, raid the pencil sharpener. The graphite is very convincing if you use it like Mig pigments. Cheers mate.
Ahh, that's a good suggestion Lance. I feel the metal hub could look a little better - I might give that a try. Cheers mate, D
Fantastic job!
But…how long do I have to wait before making oil washing? Otherwise the oil thinner will wash away the previous layer of oil color…
I left mine 30 minutes or so, the oil thinner shouldn't affect the bottom acrylic layer.
thanks Dave. Can't wait to try this next time I do crates for my 1/35 scale mods.
It should work just as well for any wooden surfaces.
Beautiful
Thank you :)
Might try your wood effect on a ship's deck. Trying to do teak deck.
Excellent video man got some talent awesome tips I'll put them to use
Thanks JP! Hope it's of use.
Cool, i cannot wait to do my Dornier Do X 😁
Awesome Dave m8!
I must ask,did you rig the EIV??
Yes I did - you can see the video here:
ruclips.net/video/FY-moPlWxbo/видео.html
Beautiful. Fantastic tutorial. Thanks so much.
Impressive. Very nicely done.
Well done Sir, well done indeed.
Thank you.
Thanks EvilScience. (Great name, btw) Dave
I found your tutorial interesting, and very much enjoyed your commentary, educative/instructive as well as entertaining/down to earth.
Regarding your mentioning application of gloss for the purists, I would have thought that your leaving the satin/semi-gloss finish; rather than applying gloss afterward; would have a truer to scale gloss look about it. Wouldn't the application of glossy finish coats appear out of scale?
In any case, in my opinion, I think your finish, on that scale, does look glossy and true to scale, I am so impressed with your work, and Thank You for your inspiring, entertaining videos,
Have Fun,
Carlos.
HI Carlos, thank you for your kind words. In hindsight (I did this video a couple of years ago) I think a semi-gloss or satin finish would look better - agreed. Dave
@@DavesModelWorkshop I didn't realise how many of your postings I've been enjoying over the past three or four years. Will you be having any exhibitions; or engaging in any upcoming competitions in Melbourne, or Yarraville?
I've noticed your love of local buildings, and would love the opportunity to see your handiwork first hand,
Carlos.
@@carlosallende2595 Thanks so much :) I had an exhibition earlier this year (June 2022) - hopefully I'll have another mid-2023? If you follow me on Instagram (just search for David Hourigan Miniature Artist) it's the best source for news of upcoming shows. Cheers, Dave
@@DavesModelWorkshop Thank You, it will be fantastic
excellent guide and end result!
Cheers, thanks for the feedback.
Yep ! Great vid, great info. Nice one Dave.
Thanks mate :)
Cheers, Dave
Thanks Dave - its a great help - keep 'er lit
Thanks Simon!
Brilliant! Thanks - makes such a difference!
Fantasic job Dave,outstanding look,some great tips & ideas here,I have 4 WNW kits in my stash,including the twin engined Gotha bomber,so i will definately be giving these techniques a try for sure when the time comes for sure,cheers
Oooh, I'd love to try the Gotha - it would be massive, but such a damn fine looking plane!
The Gotha,now out of production of course,I picked up mine second hand through a guy on ebay for just under $200,I was the third bidder,the shipping was the killer though but,got a set of white metal landing gear from the UK for it as well,seeing as it's such a large,fragile aircraft once built,also got a manual called building the wingnut wings Gotha G.IV. from France that is also now out of print,so it's kinda an all round the world aircraft My Gotha you might say?,lol,also heard a whisper on RUclips somewhere awhile back that WNW maybe going to release the later war,last version of the Gotha at some stage as well?,cheers
Wow, that sounds like a magnificent project! I'm well impressed.
Ha ha,hope to get started on it early in the new year sometime man?,too many other things on my bench ATM on the go,I have cars,planes,tanks & amoured vehicles,figures & a couple of ships,getting the time to do them all is the killer I'm afraid?,I have many kits in my stash,sold a lot of my car stuff off a few years back when I got back into military modelling after about a 30 break?,but this year I got back into doing cars again as I love doing cars most of all,closely followed by aircraft,I wouldn't mind doing the lozenge pattern camouflage on the Gotha if I could eh?,cheers
Thank you Dave, enjoyed this video. A great job!
Thanks Geoff, glad you found it useful :)
Awesome tip looking good
Thanks Mike.
ah you're great Dave, but the inside of a plastic cup as a paint pallette?
Heh heh, Hanley, you have caught me out as the lazy bugger I am. It was the closest clean mixing surface, I was too lazy to get up and walk a metre and a half to get a proper pallette! ;)
excellent results, thanks for sharing. just a quick question: how long did you wait between the oil filter/wash coats? thanks again!
Not long - about ten minutes between each.
Hi Dave, having watched your how to paint realistic wooden propellers I tried to replicate your method for my Fokker DR1 prop. All was going really well until I applied the oil wash which just stripped the base acrylic paints off 😮. I used Liquitex heavy body acrylic Burnt Sienna for the dark wood and a 60:40 mix of white Pebeo acrylic with the burnt sienna for the light wood. Then I mixed some Windsor and Newton Burnt Unber oil with Tamiya 400 levelling thinner and applied the wash. After the first coat the base acrylics lifted and bubbled and in some areas completely lifted leaving the red plastic showing through. Should I use a different thinner with the oil for the wash?
Hmm, that's a tricky one. Did you apply a primer? I'd try applying a solid coat of primer first, so you can't get back down to bare plastic. Maybe a slightly thicker acrylic layer, if you won't lose too much detail? You're doing everything right, it might just be a little too much for those foundation layers if they're a bit thin? Good luck.
@@DavesModelWorkshop ok thanks; I’ll try a primer base coat (although the video didn’t mention this part of the process) thanks again 👍
@@paulbentham1721 Hi Paul, I didn't bother with a primer in this video, it usually isn't necessary, but in your case it might help (I hope!)
@@DavesModelWorkshop thanks Dave, as you mentioned that enamel paints wouldn’t work with the oil wash I’ve given the prop a single coat of Humbrol Matt Brown as a “primer” and now in the process of applying the acrylic light snd dark wood coats. A friend also suggested not to use the Mr Hobby 400 thinner but to use a straight “white Spirit” to thin the oil burnt umber oil paint so will try that and let you know. Cheers Paul B
How long to let the acrylics dry before doing the washes?
Acrylics dry pretty fast - you could try an hour if you're in a rush, but I would recommend overnight if you have the time.
Brill stuff Dave ! I always struggle to paint wood. I got it perfect on my tiger build for the wooden block but I forgot what I used !! Lol !! Anyway him going to try some of these bits on my bits of wood I'll no doubt have in a project ! Hope you are all well matey
Thanks Motty - good luck with it, chat soon, Dave
Great video. Can I ask what type of thinners do you use
he mentioned plain old mineral turpentine, cheap as, some ppl use zippo lighter fluid also ive heard
Nice ! Thx you. What do you use to wash your oil paint ?
I use mineral turpentine. It's a little harsh compared to some other thinners, but it's cheap and it works for me :)
@@DavesModelWorkshop thank you. Im oil painter and I made ship with acrilic because I was scared to use essence de térébenthine with plastic.
thanks!!!
Great video, Dave!!!! Speaking of WnW...How u feel about that new Lancaster? Looks like theres a new era ahead with that stressed surface it has!!!!!!
Those surfaces look, quite simply, amazeballs. I love it. I'm never going to buy it, but it's a game changer, agreed.
Looks great. Yes I forgot to ask you, how long before we see a Lancaster on that work bench?
Ahhh, Chris, I have a strong love for the Lanc - it's one of my top 3 favourite aircraft of WW2. But I have neither the display space nor budget for one of them in 1/32 scale!
That's 😲😲😲😲😲😲😲 Awesome Work Brother, Thank You for Sharing Your Skills n Knowledge with us. God Bless All
Cheers Gary. Hope you're well mate. Dave
nice!
Just what I was looking for! For my dads fokker dr1
Cool! Let me know how you go! Cheers, Dave
Genius
you can buy xf-59 in acrylic ;)
I know, but I'm too cheap to buy it if I can make it myself using what I already have! I'm such a cheapskate Ethan... ;)
Wow fantastic, that is wood
Thanks Lance.
your last comment struck me... Yesterday I watched your video "When do Scale Models Become Art?" and you had me convinced they are indeed art... and yet in this video you say the opportunities to be "artistic" are few and far between. (PS I think the way you apply glue is artistic! LOL)
The Fokker reminds me story about the RAF hero Douglas Bader when was giving a talk at an upmarket girl’s school about his time as a pilot in the Second World War.“So there were two of the f***ers behind me, three f***ers to my right, another f***er on the left,’ he told the audience. The headmistress went pale and interjected: ‘Ladies, the Fokker was a German aircraft.’ Sir Douglas replied: ‘That may be madam, but these f***ers were in Messerschmitts’.”
The oil wash does not work at all. I tried all the exact same colors and the results were awful the oil paint is way to thick
Can you apply the oil thinner? - Dave
Dave's Model Workshop I ended up just brushing thinner into the propeller and that made it better but the results did not truly shine until I sprayed a gloss coat over it. Really looks great now. That oil paint was totally different from the paints I normally use.
@@TalosLordOfNight Cool, I'm so glad it worked for you mate! Nice one :)