Glad that it should run well and once condensed steam cleared should be OK. Yes they use all drawings and CAD and been silver soldering for 30 years and making boilers for about 20 years. So am confident in their ability. Thanks for your info
Thanks for the long summary of advice. Very useful. So you suggest keeping the blower on constantly a little and even when driving along to keep up steam and keep stoking fire little and ofyen?
Thanks for the info. I have got a company to make me a boiler for a 4f 3.5 inch loco but because of my lack of engineering skills I have gone for a standard boiler with no superheater flues. Without a superheater would the performance be ok and it go well and fast?
Speed is dependent on the volume of steam produced by the boiler, the super heater does play a big part in this equation. When starting the wet steam causes condensation and that water has to be expelled. the moment this is cleared the engine starts running quite well. Does the boiler manufacturer uses the proper boiler drawings and materials, besides steam generation also safety regulations has to be followed.
Thanks for the advice. Beans it is then. Most people say the same. So by breaking my coal up to this size around 20mm is OK? Is mixing anthracite with bitumous coal good too?
Thank you for such a detailed idea of firing. Will try this method. At what psi do you take the fan blower off ? Do you want to aim for fire level just under firehole when running?
I have to use the blower the moment 10 psi boiler pressure is reached. The reason for that is I use a suction fan normally used for firing up gauge one engines (Aster). For each lab I try yo start with a full firebox and let the coal burn away during the ride. For longer circuits you can ad coal while under way but only if the top layer is burning. Otherwise the heat will be absorbed and obstructed by the fresh coal. Driving an engine like this needs a lot of practice and even then you get into "trouble" sometimes due to pressure loss after injecting cold water, or standing idle for long periods and the fire dies out and never to revive. then its back to the firing bay and build a new fire. Have fun!
Hi Josh, what do you mean by an engineers car? Perhaps the truck hooked to the locomotive to sit on and control it? If so I have made a truck myself and it runs on 5" track because were I live all tracks are double gauged (3.5 and 5"). look at www.htilmans.demon.nl/twee%20assige%205%20inch%20bedienwagen.html.
Standard this boiler is fitted with a super heater, so yes to both questions. I had to replace the super heater elements once because they were burned through, they lasted 20 years. In order to protect the new ones I plugged the three top flues (here the super heater elements are located). The difference in handling was good noticeable, with super heater the engine was more responsive and lively. Without the engine was more relaxed, more white steam from the stack, starting with cold cylinders more difficult due to the condensation. Now I run with super heaters on just for the more lively character of the engine, I did not noticed lesser consumption of water or coal. Hope this helps.
Beans is my favourite coal size, large air channels between the coal on top for proper air flow. When these larger coal lumps are burning hot they disintegrate to smaller sizes and forming a hot bed without chocking the fire-bed. If you use smaller beans the layer below will consist of even smaller particles and hinder the fresh air flow from the underside and choke the fire.
Yes Matt, a thick layer of fresh coal blocks the heat transfer to the boiler water because it has to heat up and ignite. During that period the hot gasses are mainly used to ignite the fresh coal and not for generating steam. Also when opening the firebox door cold air is drawn in and again cools the boiler internals. So open the fire box door, get one "shovel" of coal in and close the door. After let say 30 seconds check if the fresh coal is lit and put the next one in. Specially the small fireboxes need careful coaling. The larger the engines the easier it gets, they are much less sensitive in that respect. Cheers, Bertie
Hi Matt, I just fill the firebox to the level of the fire door underside. The moment this is burned away to say half this level I start adding real coal one layer. Mostly the blower can be used to replace the fan, then things go really fast. Just ad coal one later the moment the previous layer is shining bright. This can be done until the lower edge of the fire door is reached. When you start driving you notice the coal pile is shrinking rapidly. You have to ad coal to remain the correct level. This sudden collapse of the coal is caused by the fully burning of the remaining charcoal and the disintegration of the large coal lumps into small parts. I hope this helps, if not let me know.
This helped thanks. I tried this method and worked well. however the psi dropped a bit and went down to 20psi constantly. How can i keep pressure better?
Firing a Virginia in this scale is quite challenging. You start the lap with a fully loaded firebox with well lit coal. The moment you start riding steam is used and perhaps fresh water is pumped into the boiler, this all causes the boiler pressure to drop. I use the blower very often, sometimes full open, but mostly just cracked open to support the exhaust in maintaining the partial vacuum in the smoke-box. It is a delicate balance between steam usage and maintaining boiler pressure. The tools for this is the blower to increase the fire and or open the bypass valve to stop the fresh water supply to the boiler. The moment the safety valve blows close the blower and close the bypass valve, if that doesn't suffice open the fire-door a bit to draw cold air. You have to train yourself to recognise the engines' response to your activity and adapt accordingly. To be honest I also get surprised by a lack of steam, mostly due to lack of attention on my part (when talking to long with other enthusiasts). I hope this helps, and good luck.
@@Stomepage I find when running on a rolling road or running the loco the pressure goes down quite dramatically from 80psi to as low as 20psi. Why is this ?
Indefinitely Josh, that is until the lower flues are blocked or my back starts to hurt (which ever comes first). The engine can pump water into the boiler by a mechanical pump or by its injector. As long there is water in the tender and coal available it goes on and on.
Авто/Мото
![Young Nudy - John Wayne (feat. Metro Boomin) [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/NY8HnYYo2fo/mqdefault.jpg)
Don't know what I like more, the locomotive or the soundtrack...
Glad that it should run well and once condensed steam cleared should be OK. Yes they use all drawings and CAD and been silver soldering for 30 years and making boilers for about 20 years. So am confident in their ability. Thanks for your info
Ah, the Standart American locomotives, nice!
yelants summers: if you wanna buy a kit, search for Aster kits, you will be choise in many options.
Thanks for the long summary of advice. Very useful.
So you suggest keeping the blower on constantly a little and even when driving along to keep up steam and keep stoking fire little and ofyen?
Thanks for the info. I have got a company to make me a boiler for a 4f 3.5 inch loco but because of my lack of engineering skills I have gone for a standard boiler with no superheater flues. Without a superheater would the performance be ok and it go well and fast?
Speed is dependent on the volume of steam produced by the boiler, the super heater does play a big part in this equation. When starting the wet steam causes condensation and that water has to be expelled. the moment this is cleared the engine starts running quite well.
Does the boiler manufacturer uses the proper boiler drawings and materials, besides steam generation also safety regulations has to be followed.
Thanks for the advice. Beans it is then. Most people say the same. So by breaking my coal up to this size around 20mm is OK? Is mixing anthracite with bitumous coal good too?
thanks but was looking for 3.5"gauge do you know of a dealer or drawing I can use ?
I'll bet you wish the opening for the fire doors was just a little bit bigger don't you?
Thank you for such a detailed idea of firing. Will try this method.
At what psi do you take the fan blower off ?
Do you want to aim for fire level just under firehole when running?
I have to use the blower the moment 10 psi boiler pressure is reached. The reason for that is I use a suction fan normally used for firing up gauge one engines (Aster). For each lab I try yo start with a full firebox and let the coal burn away during the ride. For longer circuits you can ad coal while under way but only if the top layer is burning. Otherwise the heat will be absorbed and obstructed by the fresh coal. Driving an engine like this needs a lot of practice and even then you get into "trouble" sometimes due to pressure loss after injecting cold water, or standing idle for long periods and the fire dies out and never to revive. then its back to the firing bay and build a new fire. Have fun!
Will try this method. Guessing little and often is best with firing. Do you find steaming for longer periods effects steaming?
How do you find using house coal ?
@@Stomepage What coal do you use and suggest i use?
So basically little and often and small amounts at a time and let it burn?
Do you find the smoke is of blue colour?
Do you use beans or nuts for coal?
hi do u have any trains ther for sale
we're do you get a engineers car for a 3.5"gauge locomotive like this ?
Hi Josh, what do you mean by an engineers car? Perhaps the truck hooked to the locomotive to sit on and control it? If so I have made a truck myself and it runs on 5" track because were I live all tracks are double gauged (3.5 and 5"). look at www.htilmans.demon.nl/twee%20assige%205%20inch%20bedienwagen.html.
Does she have a standard boiler or superheated?
Standard this boiler is fitted with a super heater, so yes to both questions. I had to replace the super heater elements once because they were burned through, they lasted 20 years. In order to protect the new ones I plugged the three top flues (here the super heater elements are located). The difference in handling was good noticeable, with super heater the engine was more responsive and lively. Without the engine was more relaxed, more white steam from the stack, starting with cold cylinders more difficult due to the condensation.
Now I run with super heaters on just for the more lively character of the engine, I did not noticed lesser consumption of water or coal.
Hope this helps.
Do you recommend using grains or beans for 3.5 inch locos?
Beans is my favourite coal size, large air channels between the coal on top for proper air flow. When these larger coal lumps are burning hot they disintegrate to smaller sizes and forming a hot bed without chocking the fire-bed. If you use smaller beans the layer below will consist of even smaller particles and hinder the fresh air flow from the underside and choke the fire.
I find this works as now use beans as grains seemed to kill the fire like you say
I've recently tried using a mix of grains and beans .seems to keep steam well with that. If this works do you recommend doing that ?
Have tried that and seems to work well. What coal is your favourite?
@@Stomepage as my loco is only a small 0-4-0 I find the beans are too big. Do you think grains would be better?
Do you suggest little and often with the coal?
Yes Matt, a thick layer of fresh coal blocks the heat transfer to the boiler water because it has to heat up and ignite. During that period the hot gasses are mainly used to ignite the fresh coal and not for generating steam.
Also when opening the firebox door cold air is drawn in and again cools the boiler internals. So open the fire box door, get one "shovel" of coal in and close the door. After let say 30 seconds check if the fresh coal is lit and put the next one in.
Specially the small fireboxes need careful coaling. The larger the engines the easier it gets, they are much less sensitive in that respect.
Cheers,
Bertie
Thanks will try the 1 shovel of coal idea. Must say I get carried away putting top much in at a time
@@Stomepage Another question, have you ever used the soft Welsh dry steam coal?
How deep should the charcoal be before lighting?
Hi Matt, I just fill the firebox to the level of the fire door underside. The moment this is burned away to say half this level I start adding real coal one layer. Mostly the blower can be used to replace the fan, then things go really fast. Just ad coal one later the moment the previous layer is shining bright. This can be done until the lower edge of the fire door is reached. When you start driving you notice the coal pile is shrinking rapidly. You have to ad coal to remain the correct level. This sudden collapse of the coal is caused by the fully burning of the remaining charcoal and the disintegration of the large coal lumps into small parts. I hope this helps, if not let me know.
This helped thanks. I tried this method and worked well. however the psi dropped a bit and went down to 20psi constantly. How can i keep pressure better?
Firing a Virginia in this scale is quite challenging. You start the lap with a fully loaded firebox with well lit coal. The moment you start riding steam is used and perhaps fresh water is pumped into the boiler, this all causes the boiler pressure to drop. I use the blower very often, sometimes full open, but mostly just cracked open to support the exhaust in maintaining the partial vacuum in the smoke-box. It is a delicate balance between steam usage and maintaining boiler pressure. The tools for this is the blower to increase the fire and or open the bypass valve to stop the fresh water supply to the boiler. The moment the safety valve blows close the blower and close the bypass valve, if that doesn't suffice open the fire-door a bit to draw cold air.
You have to train yourself to recognise the engines' response to your activity and adapt accordingly.
To be honest I also get surprised by a lack of steam, mostly due to lack of attention on my part (when talking to long with other enthusiasts).
I hope this helps, and good luck.
@@Stomepage I find when running on a rolling road or running the loco the pressure goes down quite dramatically from 80psi to as low as 20psi. Why is this ?
What speed is it designed to run at ?
I think something around 5 km/h.
Stomepage thanks
Too loud music.
How long will it run ?
Indefinitely Josh, that is until the lower flues are blocked or my back starts to hurt (which ever comes first). The engine can pump water into the boiler by a mechanical pump or by its injector. As long there is water in the tender and coal available it goes on and on.
How many hours can you manage without noticing effect on steaming and blocking up tubes?
that is literally a tiny train