Really good to see a tip from an "oldtimer". I am 40 and I feel I need to learn a lot! 20yrs old don't even care anymore. It's easier to buy a new car instead of repairing an old one. Keep passing the knowledge.
Another great video I have changed my thoughts around sand blasting especially like the idea of discovering the history of the panel I am working on a MKII Jag so also relevant thanks again Wray
Nice to see practical resto videos Wray. Keep them coming. Congrats on hitting 26K subscribers also! Have you looked into any of the new adhesive/spot welding practices used in present day collision repair? I have a 1967 E Type we are currently beginning and am considering using some of the 3M system in conjunction with spot welding in all factory locations to permanently ban the tin worm. It's going to be an ugly one, collision damage with overlapped repairs, yet still nice to see them coming back from the dead.
Those stubborn spot welds are a curse - I have to deal with a lot of them here in rusty salty Wales. I found this method to be fast and easy. I grind the flange with an angle grinder with a standard grinding disk slightly back a forth and don’t press too hard and very quickly the spot welds heat up like little red head lamps. I concentrate on grinding that until it pops then move onto the next one. The flange can them be lightly prized away with an old chisel and it leaves the spot welds standing proud like little columns - always amazes me how un round the welds always are! Anyway hope this of use to anyone.
Greta video, thanks. I highly recommend the spot weld drill air tools with a self centring cobalt hss end mill type spot weld cutter and a micrometer adjustable depth stop. I picked up a used Clarke one on ebay in the UK, and it's an absolutely brilliant bit of kit. I'd tried various other typed before, but having the depth stop makes all the difference. No damage to the bottom panel. Cereal box card is perfect for bodywork templates!
Morning Wray, I have found that using molasses for rust removal is a very good method though slow. Formula is 1 gallon of molasses and 9 of water in a container and for example with your Scout project I'd take 2x6 or 8 and build a frame and lay in a heavy plastic and add the molasses and lay the hood in for a couple of weeks. It will most likely take all the paint off as well. It will come out black and I pressure wash and when done will be gray iron colored. I'm surprised that this isn't used more often. Only drawback is that some don't appreciate the smell though it's not too offensive to most people. I put a station in the back of the shop outside. I buy the molasses by the gallon in from a local feed store is and usually under 10 bucks.
Don't kid him! Tell him how bad it and the mold really smell. And how every deer in a hundred miles will show up. Where ever you dump it will smell for days! But it does a good job.
Nice job, thanks for these videos. Spot welds are a pain to remove, I think grinding them down with a round die grinder or belt grinder is the best approach. Every time you said “pattern” I thought you were saying “patent’. I was thinking “why do we have to make a patent?”, lol
Find a "Blair" spot weld cutter. They work great, we have probably removed at least a hundred from our Porsche 914 rustout project. I have found creating a divot with a 1/8 drill about 1/16 deep centers the spot weld remover good
I've always used the edge of a cut off wheel to erode spot welds. I've seen some collision channels use the tiny belt sanders like you have. I might have to pick one up. It looks like they are not too expensive.
Old school at its best. Very interesting. I'm learning heaps about the right way of doing things. One way we used to remove edging about 40 years ago was to grind through the overlap. It's rough but it works if you don't get too carried away.
The difference between a beginner and a master is the knowledge of what to do when the worlkpiece refuses to behave reasonably as intended. (Like this one.)
Hi Wray . Did you get rid of that Bee at 29 mins ! ( air saw ) . I have been doing exactly this on my 'e'type ! I thought l'd found the spot welds on the rear number plate panel . Trying to find and drill them overhead .... what a nightmare ! I missed them all ! Sometimes these restorations can drive you bonkers ! Thanks Wray !
Great work! Right at the beginning, you say "dipped the door in rust killer". Is that a phosphoric acid type of bath - Rust-911? I'd like to know more about that, I think I found the correct website - it did a beautiful prep job. Thanks.
It is not a phosphoric acid. It is a non toxic non hazardous solution you just add water and let it remove the rust. One quart of Rust 911 makes 5 gallons of solution. You can dip parts into it or continuous spray them ( with a small pump). Usually most rust dissolves in 24 hours, really deep rust can take 48 hrs. The process is passive other than scrubbing with a wire brush and flushing with water after you remove it from the dip. Blow off with air and dry well, I use a heat gun. I have Rust 911 one gallon concentrate for sale in my amazon store. www.amazon.com/shop/proshaper
@@proshaper -- Thanks. I saw the Paint and Rust Remover video which answers all my questions. The two videos together show how well the Rust 911 works. I appreciate your answer and I'll order the Rust 911 soon. Apologies for asking when I could have gotten the info by digging a bit. Your series is great -- your work is top-line professional work and your explanations are clear and easy to understand. Just a few videos in and I've learned a lot (and I used to work for a motorcycle manufacturing company).
Is that brace that reinforces the front panel, the one with the full length bead, spot welded to the front? Will you be removing it to deal with any rust between it and the main front panel? Real interesting series. It’s interesting to see how those old cars were built.
So how do you bid on a job like this.? A timed breakdown would be nice down. I know with all your experience and tooling you would be much faster, but it would give me an idea. I'm not fast and slow just half assed but getting better
Greetings. Love the vids. Have a question. I'm looking to make some copper bowls. One is about 2 feet long, 14 inches deep 8 inches wide nd a rolled edge around it. Would the English wheel be appropriate for this? Thanks in advance.
How you make them would depend on their end use. You could weld the ends on and planish the welds out on a planishing hammer. What is the end use and thickness?
@@devildogdad100 .040" copper will bend really easy into a U shape then weld the ends on . The welds can be hammered into a radius. Copper tig welds easy.
Lowe’s and Home Depot sell 3ft wide rolls of heavy brown paper for floor protection, almost as good as the cereal box cardboard for making patterns with
I based my 150 value remarks on what a friend who exclusively restored XKs for about 40 years told me. He said that his customers would pay more and sought out the 150S models more than any other. The exception would be the first 240 alloy coachbuilt 120s. He frequently upgraded the 150 brakes and transmission to make them more drivable.
@@proshaper I don't want to get into an argument over that, but Hagerty valuation data are more in tune with my perception (granted, from the other side of the pond), that is for comparable condition XK140 are about 25% more than XK150, and XK120 about 20% more than XK140 give or take (alloy body XK120 are a different car, several times more than any of the others no matter the condition) - if you only take them from a design view point, the 150s are not as distinctive as the previous two, and the extra HP (when available) is far from making up the heaviness of a pontoon bodyline...
Thanks for all your videos! How long do you estimate an inch of weld takes from beginning to finish? The last ”patch” I welded in it may have took less time to reproduce the whole panel. Thanks!
I am planning to try electrolysis to remove the rust from my Alfa Romeo Giulia Coupe doors. They are generally in better condition than this Jag door of yours, but I do see myself doing a partial reskin too, like you are. For some reason the doors have both picked up some bad rust at their bottom corners even though the drainage slots are wide open - I don't quite get that, tbh.
I might just use this here opportunity to make a correction - after further investigation, I discovered my Alfa Romeo doors are not at all in better condition than the Jag door, my goodness. In fact, the one is much worse. So, a full reskin for both!
I use a super thin slapper and slide it under the support. Once the slapper is in place with another slapper slap the outside of the skin against the inside slapper.
I like use disc with small grit paper gess we all work with tools we like the way i use it if you get it down sofar it will blue the use the drill bit on it im only a weekend warrior by the way 🤟
I didn't want to spend too much video time taking out blind spot welds. If they weren't all rusted and visible It would have taken me a few minutes per spot weld.
You didn't try the tools as you spoke of before you went straight to the saw. Being a teacher, wouldn't it be better take the time to try different ways to remove the spot welds than getting in a hurry and start cutting. Ronnie.
I didn't want to spend a couple hours looking for blind spot welds ( you couldn't see them because of the heavy rust. I didn't think anyone would find searching for spotwelds would interesting. I cut one side loose yesterday and it took me well over an hour.
@@proshaper Yea, but your talking to people that may not have another part. So there fore it would help to do it like someone would do it in their garage (the real world).. Ronnie.
Endmills with a centering nib are the absolute best spot weld cutters.
One guy like you taught me shop in high school. Game changer for my life.
Really good to see a tip from an "oldtimer". I am 40 and I feel I need to learn a lot! 20yrs old don't even care anymore. It's easier to buy a new car instead of repairing an old one. Keep passing the knowledge.
He said 30's car, and I was saying yes to the screen. Rust, wood falling apart...the worst of both worlds. Love the videos.
I'm enjoying this. Thanks Wray.
Very educational nice to see how someone else aproachs these issues thanks
Another great video I have changed my thoughts around sand blasting especially like the idea of discovering the history of the panel I am working on a MKII Jag so also relevant thanks again Wray
really enjoying this set , its more like the things I get talked into , great to see some one elses approach to repairs.
Thanks Wray very helpful.
Looking forward to seeing how to make a replacement skin with a bend that has a different radius on each end.
Wray, I was so looking forward to the replacement skin going on and how you would keep distortion down on the long lightly crowned panel.
I'll get to it. I have been tied up with a job that had to get finished. I'll be back soon.
Great stuff Wray!
Another great vid really enjoy see the process you keep making these vids I’ll keep watching
Nice to see practical resto videos Wray. Keep them coming. Congrats on hitting 26K subscribers also! Have you looked into any of the new adhesive/spot welding practices used in present day collision repair? I have a 1967 E Type we are currently beginning and am considering using some of the 3M system in conjunction with spot welding in all factory locations to permanently ban the tin worm. It's going to be an ugly one, collision damage with overlapped repairs, yet still nice to see them coming back from the dead.
Those stubborn spot welds are a curse - I have to deal with a lot of them here in rusty salty Wales. I found this method to be fast and easy.
I grind the flange with an angle grinder with a standard grinding disk slightly back a forth and don’t press too hard and very quickly the spot welds heat up like little red head lamps. I concentrate on grinding that until it pops then move onto the next one. The flange can them be lightly prized away with an old chisel and it leaves the spot welds standing proud like little columns - always amazes me how un round the welds always are! Anyway hope this of use to anyone.
Greta video, thanks. I highly recommend the spot weld drill air tools with a self centring cobalt hss end mill type spot weld cutter and a micrometer adjustable depth stop. I picked up a used Clarke one on ebay in the UK, and it's an absolutely brilliant bit of kit. I'd tried various other typed before, but having the depth stop makes all the difference. No damage to the bottom panel. Cereal box card is perfect for bodywork templates!
Morning Wray, I have found that using molasses for rust removal is a very good method though slow. Formula is 1 gallon of molasses and 9 of water in a container and for example with your Scout project I'd take 2x6 or 8 and build a frame and lay in a heavy plastic and add the molasses and lay the hood in for a couple of weeks. It will most likely take all the paint off as well. It will come out black and I pressure wash and when done will be gray iron colored.
I'm surprised that this isn't used more often. Only drawback is that some don't appreciate the smell though it's not too offensive to most people. I put a station in the back of the shop outside.
I buy the molasses by the gallon in from a local feed store is and usually under 10 bucks.
Don't kid him! Tell him how bad it and the mold really smell. And how every deer in a hundred miles will show up. Where ever you dump it will smell for days! But it does a good job.
Nice job, thanks for these videos. Spot welds are a pain to remove, I think grinding them down with a round die grinder or belt grinder is the best approach. Every time you said “pattern” I thought you were saying “patent’. I was thinking “why do we have to make a patent?”, lol
Find a "Blair" spot weld cutter. They work great, we have probably removed at least a hundred from our Porsche 914 rustout project. I have found creating a divot with a 1/8 drill about 1/16 deep centers the spot weld remover good
Looking forward to the rest of this series!
I've always used the edge of a cut off wheel to erode spot welds. I've seen some collision channels use the tiny belt sanders like you have. I might have to pick one up. It looks like they are not too expensive.
More awesome content, thanks as always for taking the time to make these video's and for continuing to share, really appreciated.
Old school at its best. Very interesting. I'm learning heaps about the right way of doing things.
One way we used to remove edging about 40 years ago was to grind through the overlap. It's rough but it works if you don't get too carried away.
This so cool.
The difference between a beginner and a master is the knowledge of what to do when the worlkpiece refuses to behave reasonably as intended. (Like this one.)
Hi Wray . Did you get rid of that Bee at 29 mins ! ( air saw ) . I have been doing exactly this on my 'e'type ! I thought l'd found the spot welds on the rear number plate panel . Trying to find and drill them overhead .... what a nightmare ! I missed them all ! Sometimes these restorations can drive you bonkers ! Thanks Wray !
Great work! Right at the beginning, you say "dipped the door in rust killer". Is that a phosphoric acid type of bath - Rust-911? I'd like to know more about that, I think I found the correct website - it did a beautiful prep job. Thanks.
It is not a phosphoric acid. It is a non toxic non hazardous solution you just add water and let it remove the rust. One quart of Rust 911 makes 5 gallons of solution. You can dip parts into it or continuous spray them ( with a small pump). Usually most rust dissolves in 24 hours, really deep rust can take 48 hrs. The process is passive other than scrubbing with a wire brush and flushing with water after you remove it from the dip. Blow off with air and dry well, I use a heat gun. I have Rust 911 one gallon concentrate for sale in my amazon store. www.amazon.com/shop/proshaper
@@proshaper -- Thanks. I saw the Paint and Rust Remover video which answers all my questions. The two videos together show how well the Rust 911 works. I appreciate your answer and I'll order the Rust 911 soon. Apologies for asking when I could have gotten the info by digging a bit. Your series is great -- your work is top-line professional work and your explanations are clear and easy to understand. Just a few videos in and I've learned a lot (and I used to work for a motorcycle manufacturing company).
Is that brace that reinforces the front panel, the one with the full length bead, spot welded to the front? Will you be removing it to deal with any rust between it and the main front panel? Real interesting series. It’s interesting to see how those old cars were built.
I don't think I will have to remove the hinge panel reinforcing structure. I have to straighten the hinge panel first and see how it comes out.
So how do you bid on a job like this.? A timed breakdown would be nice down. I know with all your experience and tooling you would be much faster, but it would give me an idea. I'm not fast and slow just half assed but getting better
I'm only doing scratch-building now.
Greetings. Love the vids. Have a question. I'm looking to make some copper bowls. One is about 2 feet long, 14 inches deep 8 inches wide nd a rolled edge around it. Would the English wheel be appropriate for this? Thanks in advance.
How you make them would depend on their end use. You could weld the ends on and planish the welds out on a planishing hammer. What is the end use and thickness?
@@proshaper going to be using them as planters.
Thickness isn't very important.
@@devildogdad100 .040" copper will bend really easy into a U shape then weld the ends on . The welds can be hammered into a radius. Copper tig welds easy.
@@proshaper thanks for the help and quick response. Appreciated.
Lowe’s and Home Depot sell 3ft wide rolls of heavy brown paper for floor protection, almost as good as the cereal box cardboard for making patterns with
What's going on with door anymore updates in progress 👍
quite interesting practical case, thank you - though I respectfully disagree with the "generally most valuable" 150 over 120 or 140 models ...
I based my 150 value remarks on what a friend who exclusively restored XKs for about 40 years told me. He said that his customers would pay more and sought out the 150S models more than any other. The exception would be the first 240 alloy coachbuilt 120s. He frequently upgraded the 150 brakes and transmission to make them more drivable.
@@proshaper I don't want to get into an argument over that, but Hagerty valuation data are more in tune with my perception (granted, from the other side of the pond), that is for comparable condition XK140 are about 25% more than XK150, and XK120 about 20% more than XK140 give or take (alloy body XK120 are a different car, several times more than any of the others no matter the condition) - if you only take them from a design view point, the 150s are not as distinctive as the previous two, and the extra HP (when available) is far from making up the heaviness of a pontoon bodyline...
Thanks for all your videos! How long do you estimate an inch of weld takes from beginning to finish?
The last ”patch” I welded in it may have took less time to reproduce the whole panel. Thanks!
My general rule is it takes about an hour per foot to butt weld in a panel and metal finish it so only primer is needed.
I am planning to try electrolysis to remove the rust from my Alfa Romeo Giulia Coupe doors. They are generally in better condition than this Jag door of yours, but I do see myself doing a partial reskin too, like you are. For some reason the doors have both picked up some bad rust at their bottom corners even though the drainage slots are wide open - I don't quite get that, tbh.
I might just use this here opportunity to make a correction - after further investigation, I discovered my Alfa Romeo doors are not at all in better condition than the Jag door, my goodness. In fact, the one is much worse. So, a full reskin for both!
What is the brand of the cordless shears?
Bosch
Great video Wray, how would you remove a dent if you couldn't or didn't want to remove anti drum support from behind door skin ?
I use a super thin slapper and slide it under the support. Once the slapper is in place with another slapper slap the outside of the skin against the inside slapper.
What if drum panel support is glued on and you can't get behind with thin slapper?
lazy hacks use a belt sander, good panel beaters use spot weld drills, they are not expensive and make a nice neat job
I like use disc with small grit paper gess we all work with tools we like the way i use it if you get it down sofar it will blue the use the drill bit on it im only a weekend warrior by the way 🤟
Options available: 1/ Coachwork
2/ Restoration
3/ Repair
4/ BONDO!!!!!!
Yep, good one! It's easy to frost a cake and make it look good. It is what is inside that counts.
👍👏👏
In my "opinion" , you had given up on the belt sander to early? Doing collision repair the belt sander is king.😀
I didn't want to spend too much video time taking out blind spot welds. If they weren't all rusted and visible It would have taken me a few minutes per spot weld.
You didn't try the tools as you spoke of before you went straight to the saw. Being a teacher, wouldn't it be better take the time to try different ways to remove the spot welds than getting in a hurry and start cutting. Ronnie.
I didn't want to spend a couple hours looking for blind spot welds ( you couldn't see them because of the heavy rust. I didn't think anyone would find searching for spotwelds would interesting. I cut one side loose yesterday and it took me well over an hour.
@@proshaper Yea, but your talking to people that may not have another part. So there fore it would help to do it like someone would do it in their garage (the real world).. Ronnie.
Whati
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100 to 300 thousand is not worth it.😳