What do you guys think, can the UglyTruck run 8s in the 1/4 with this suspension? I know the guys from OnDGas have put a single cab in the 7s on stock leaf springs, but that was a single cab, not an extended cab. I feel like the big block we're assembling will make enough steam to do it, but it's just a question if we can put down the power properly.
I don’t think it will be easy to run 8s but it’s not impossible. Power shouldn’t be an issue. One thing I want to mention. Don’t weld the shock brackets in the middle of the ride height. Calvert recommends 1-2” of compression at ride height and the rest of the travel extension since the truck will lift after it plants the tires. You don’t want to run out of extension because then it will blow the tires off. Make sure to set the pinion angle where he recommends too. I did -4 on my truck. Caltracs, Calvert leafs, cheap rancho 9000 shocks, 4000lbs and I’ve been 1.27 60ft.
I don’t think you will go 8s as is… definitely need rear end and different suspension minimum. And you should just leave that bumper off, it’s never going to need it again and it would save a bit of weight
Much respect Lawrence. I have never c-notched a frame, and probably never will, but it is good to see someone identify a possible mistake that they made and present a better solution going forward
LT you're a great guy...the internet is full of professionals who know it all. With the top rail left & 1" vertical rail at 90° on the the upper frame rail that you cut and the opposite side fully intact, it would have taken atleast 2000lbs hanging off the bumpers to compromise the frame at its fulcrum after you cut it. You did the cuts the right way, remove bed, remove suspension & cut one side then FULLY weld and rinse/repeat other side.
I agree with you 100%! Though you just made me realize I’m getting kinda old - if you consider the ugly truck an older used vehicle. I’ve have my GMC since it came off a lease. I’ve had it 19 years. I guess that at 22 years old my truck is “an older used vehicle” Keep an eye on LT here. His work is definitely cool 😉👍
Hi LT, The frame looks great! You are fortunate to not live in the rust belt. Once I get around to removing the bed on my 1999, all the crossmembers need to be replaced, as well as the rear spring hangers and probably more things that I don't know about yet. It is definitely a project. As far as the 8's go, I don't know. That is pretty quick for a full-size truck but if you do achieve ~1500 HP, it might be possible. Back in the day when I was growing up, the fastest drag cars running on gasoline (as opposed to nitro) were running 9's. Of course, they were NA and technology has come a long way since then. Thanks for the video! -mike
I use rustoleum tractor implement paint. Thin it with acetone and a splash of hardener, then a harbor freight spray gun. Stuff is super strong and really cheap.
Am loving the series so far! That is shiny chassis!! I like it so far! It makes the job worthwhile and clean! Can't wait to see how it turns out!! Great job, LT! Many thumbs up! 👍
When using rattlecan paint and you want to reduce the gloss, back the can off to about 12 inches for the final coat. The gloss stays in the aerosol mist and doesnt apply as heavy.
@donald watson If it were me, I’d buy a semi gloss, or a matte, instead of moving back further and misting a pattern on further than you usually would, because that far away that mist you’re talking about isn’t capable of atomizing the way it is supposed on whatever you’re painting. The way you’d usually paint the coats are going to level themselves out and look smooth as glass. The way you’re talking about is going to be far from smooth as glass, it’s going to actually have a texture to it because the majority of the paint is dry before even sticking to part because of the atomizing statement I made earlier. Y’all can do it however you’d like this is just my 2 cents worth, hopefully it will help someone.
I have always welded the C-Channel reinforcements prior to cutting out the bottom of the frame, and had never seen it done the way you did it until your last video, but your reinforcements seemed to leave more frame at the top than I am used to, and I think your idea of supporting the rear next time would be fine. I use Krylon or Ace (which is the same thing with a different label) in satin black if I am using small cans, or Speedokote's hotrod black if I am doing enough to justify a spray gun. I hate the rustoleum spray tips. I totally agree that the flat is too flat and the semigloss seems to be too shiny. Im so glad you spent the time cleaning up that frame, that should make you happy any time you look at it for years to come.
Just a couple of things make sure you get really good penetration when you weld your spring perches to differential, you also have to be careful while using a rear end like that where you have the axle tubes pressed into the center section, this center section will turn on the axle tubes all the sudden your pinion angle be pointed up, with the Dana sixties we weld the perimeter of the center section to the axle tubes, and finally if you watch engine Masters they did a test with Mufflers on turbos they made substantially more horsepower with no Muffler the muffler killed tons of power, you might want to take and make a test pipe to take the muffler out when racing and reinstall it when you are Street driving
The work you did on the c-notch is fine. People forget that metal is actually quite a strong material. lol. Even if you would have cut both sides at the same time, you still would have had to try reeeeeealllly hard to bend it.
Make sure you clear some paint off before you put that ground back on by the spare tire or your lights will not work properly happened to me once lol. Great content keep it up
Nice work on painting the frame and I think the semi gloss looks good! Once the bed is back on as you know you won't really see much of it anyway. Can't wait to see it all done!! :)
For popping those rivets off, I’ve used a good air hammer like snap on or even IR with a sharp chisel bit to pop the heads off one side and pop it through with a punch. It’ll take less time, no cutting or welding involved
I don't have 1500 rwhp but I do put down above 500 rwhp on the same rear end you have ( with truetrak) with no problems. I use racemaster drag radials and I'm a stock nv 3500 5 speed. My best 60 ft is a 1.81 with no cal tracks ( coming soon). So you should be at least 1.8 in the 60 ft... Maybe 1.7 if she hooks perfect .
Don't forget to install drive line hoops so when you twist the pinion shaft apart the rest of the drive line don't come out and or detonite hopefully ?
@@lazyhoundracing9621 thanks for the info I'm not up on a lot of rules used to do some illegal racing some time ago had a 1971 Cutlass that was really fast thank God I'm still alive man it was a lot of fun ah the good times
it's a big truck but I'm sure with enough work you can get the ugly truck down the quarter in the mid 8's with this suspension setup. Thanks for all your hardwork staying up to get another great video out for us to watch. The truck is looking great and while I may not be as excited as you are for that new engine I'm definitely super excited to see how the build progresses.
Like you say - little bit on the 'shiny side'. But the other issue is that non catalyzed enamel just chips too easily! If you're looking for a killer paint, grab a can of VHT chassis and rollbar paint. It's got a great finish look (not too shiny, not too flat!) but the big thing is it's an epoxy paint. SUPER tough stuff. Reasonably priced as well. #notsponsored ;)
LT, you know way more than I do about trucks even though I'm old enough to be you dad. But, more than the suspension, that 8.6 axle and D/S better go away as you'll be oiling down the starting line/creating shrapnel before you lift the front wheels... :)
Funny thing about welding on frames. Overkill to avoid things breaking can cause things to break. You will often see stitch welds instead of full length welds and where a weld ends there might be a hole drilled. This is because frames flex and welds don’t, at least not at the same rate. So fractures will appear in the area around welds especially when they cross flex lines.
I know someone who is adamant that you're not supposed to drill or weld on frames. I've always been curious as to why. You see a lot of custom vehicles where they C-notch frames for lowing purposes or doing a Z cut to shorten frames and then weld them. Belltech even sells a "bolt in" C-notch which I assume means drilling holes in the frame. I honestly don't see a problem. But you're argument about frames flexing at different rates than welds really has me thinking.
@@TyNeePen15 . It was one of the things I learned doing a mechanical engineering degree. Z notches and fish plates and diamond plates are attempts to avoid creating fracture points.
In theory that sounds logical to me, but in practice, I do know GM welds these frames together in many places, and they’re all full length welds. If they trust welds on their frame, so do I.
@@LawrenceTolman It seems that sometimes it's just that. Theory. I don't think there's any issue welding a frame. So long as it's done properly. (I can't weld worth a damn, so I can't judge anyone else).
Man that 10 bolt is already holding on for dear life, a 12 bolt or 9" is a must. The only gripe I have of gm 1/2 tons is the use of car parts on trucks. My friends and I have eaten more rearends than 4l60's.
Something to consider for weight placement if you redo the fuel system in the future. You could do a mid 90s ford truck (or bronco if you want more capacity) aft axle fuel tank. It would take some fab work to mount, but you have that covered... and nothing says traction like weight closer to the rear and in the middle not off to one side.
Great video, Sir! Going with an 8.8 in my ‘81 stepside build, but we have a 9” just in case. Looking forward to the Caltracs installation, LT, have a great week.
it looks pretty straight from the camera point of view on your frame anyways looks nice I usually take and weld the side plate on at least before I make a cut that way I have a brace of some sort and it can't go anywhere that way but good job it looks great
Great work LT if you have to worry about the frame sagging a bit which I don’t think it is you would not make any progress. Looks awesome keep rolling on.
If you don’t like the shine of the semi-gloss, try the satin black. I prefer it. Also look into the VHT chassis and rollbar paint. It also comes in satin.
Digging the content. Why not try maxing out the current setup and the 8.1 by adding ring gap and going to a much larger cam and shift the power and torque higher up in the rev range so it has a chance to survive before going to your new setup? It will be interesting and provides more content 👍
Killing it sir. I've only run my truck once. It's all stock 4.8 except for the turbo fuel system on 8lbs 10° street tuned 3200 yank triple disk and level 6 RPM trans never been on a Dyno don't really know what it makes but ran a 8.9 in the 1/8th my first time out hopefully getting a full Dyno tune next month so I can get that number lower. I can't imagine getting 8s in a 1/4 especially on springs spins quite a bit now. Plan on a 3 link with coil overs when I buy a new daily and this goes full toy 🤪
It would be interesting to see how the "Not So Ugly Truck" sticks now with the old tires... Then maybe get 2 sets of stickier tires? Some sticky street tires and some drag radials or slicks.
I did a bumper in that exact Rustoleum product. It is 6 months out and the floor still has the shadow. Ain’t no thing. I guess it really means that the product has staying power.
watch your video when you jacked it up and when you let the axel drop of jack and watch how much your frame drooped. and when you dropped onto stands in front of axel, scary flex!!!😉
well when I let the jack down at that moment you're describing, that wasn't frame flex because nothing was cut yet. Because I put the jack stands toward the center of the frame, the front was raising slightly which causes the back to go down.
Too bad they sold our drag strip to build warehouses. Back in the 90's we used redwood and the backroad pioneer crossing now occupies for our Friday night shenanigans. 😁🤙🏻big block farm trucks with lots of spray.
Yep. Jealous of your rust free-ish gmt800. I need to rockers, bed sides, one out wheel well on the bed and the cross members in the back. Keep up with the great videos 🤘🤘
Love your show! I am doing a flip kit on my 2003 Silverado. I like the way you did your rear shocks. I think you said Viking Shocks? Do you have the part # for the shocks and the shock bracket kit holder that you used, please? You should try using Eastwood Satin black chassis paint. You brush it on. No overspray and it looks great. Thanks, Todd
It should go 8s with the engine that's in it. 200hp/liter is safe on the stock bottom ( for a few passes ) on alcohol if the LS can be used as a comparison. Run 8s on the 8100 then go 7s on the stroker.
I don't see any trouble getting into the 8's. 1500 HP will twist that rear end up like a pretzel. On my 53 Chevy 1/2 ton I'm running leaf springs with a quick change and Bicknel torque arm. The magic is in the shocks. Those springs have no idea if they are straight or round. I'm putting in a Chevy I6 282 dependably at 1000 HP. 2-650DP, 6-71, NOS, Falconer V-12 head, Electromotive direct fire ignition, 5 stage dry sump. My target is the 8:50 class. Watch your weight distribution. I think the general thought seems to be about 54% front and 46% rear. Keep in mind running 8"s is really really fast. That truck was not designed to go 160mph. Be safe. Thank you for your time.
I'm surprised you dont twist that quick change up off the line drag racing. I've seen em get tore up on less forgiving dirt with only 900 hp. You sir must have some special quick change . Sounds like you 2 are going to be shooting for the same class
@@chadalac1977 Yes you are correct. Frankland custom made it for me. It cost $7k. They don't like the shock in the beginning so the Bicknel torque arm with a triple biscuit and carbon fiber driveshaft have enough flex to help mitigate that. It is designed to break the lower input shaft first that isn't a big deal to change. Having a clutch instead of a button helps too.
I think the 9" with 31 or 35 spline axles is a good idea. Just my 2 cents. Although, I'm not too sure how you would get your ABS light to stay out (I guess you just remove the bulb from the cluster?) and function, assuming you care.
on this year of truck there is no ABS or wheel speed sensor in the rear (it uses the transmission outspeed sensor to compare against the front) so for me, I could do a 9" swap and cause no problems with the ABS
The Silverado 1500HD used a 9.5” ring gear 14 bolt rear diff that should have no problem handling your power goals and has plenty of locker and gears options.
I agree. Satin is perfect and Rustoleum makes that sheen in the enamel. I painted a drawer system I made for the rear of my extended cab truck and it looks perfect. Not too flat, not too shiny.
LT, regarding your mask comment and wire wheeling the rust: I'd suggest if you truly want to ensure clean air you need to shave that face! I have used full & half face respirators with P100 cartridges for welding and working around organic acids. The 3M Reusable Respirator, Half Face Piece 7502 is a good solid one with the appropriate filters and is not overpriced. You should fit-test it though and again you need to have a clean shaven face otherwise you will experience leak-by.
awesome build if you run that axle do you think you should weld the axle tubes to the carrier 1500HP is a hell of a lot to put on that thing .and if you build a th400 transmission i hope you show the build for it i just bought a old one that was in a 71 3/4 ton truck i want to build myself
Nice job, I wish I was your neighbor so we could do some work on my truck. I would love to do some of the stuff you’ve done to your trucks. But unfortunately my level of expertise is much lower. 😅
If you welded the brackets to the bottom of that crossmember would that move the mount holes down enough that the bracket could be flat and the axle bracket could be rotated down flat also?
Ive been watching the ugly truck build from pretty near the beginning, and im not sure how I feel about running 8's. I know its your own truck and you can do what you want, but by the time you add all the saftey gear to go 8's, I feel like the truck may loose its identity as an ugly street truck (which as it sits is pretty badass) and turn into a proper prepped drag car... Edit: also to add to that, if youre trying to go fast, why dont you start with a single cab 2wd short bed. Less weight and just commit to a drag truck from day 1.
Nice work man. I'm curious what size is you Mig welder? Mine is a Hobart 160 or somewhere around that. If that isn't string enough I may just Tig it. My tig is a 212.
What do you guys think, can the UglyTruck run 8s in the 1/4 with this suspension? I know the guys from OnDGas have put a single cab in the 7s on stock leaf springs, but that was a single cab, not an extended cab. I feel like the big block we're assembling will make enough steam to do it, but it's just a question if we can put down the power properly.
At this rate you are gonna have to find a new name for Ugly Truck.
Don't know if you'll hit 8s, but I guarantee you will see a big difference.
Set that engine as far back as possible. Just order a 9" now for when you snap that 10bolt. Sticky tires will reveal your weaknesses
Not 8's with your current motor and drivetrain... But if she hooks and doesn't break you should see 10 ' s
I don’t think it will be easy to run 8s but it’s not impossible. Power shouldn’t be an issue.
One thing I want to mention. Don’t weld the shock brackets in the middle of the ride height. Calvert recommends 1-2” of compression at ride height and the rest of the travel extension since the truck will lift after it plants the tires. You don’t want to run out of extension because then it will blow the tires off. Make sure to set the pinion angle where he recommends too. I did -4 on my truck. Caltracs, Calvert leafs, cheap rancho 9000 shocks, 4000lbs and I’ve been 1.27 60ft.
I don’t think you will go 8s as is… definitely need rear end and different suspension minimum. And you should just leave that bumper off, it’s never going to need it again and it would save a bit of weight
Much respect Lawrence. I have never c-notched a frame, and probably never will, but it is good to see someone identify a possible mistake that they made and present a better solution going forward
LT you're a great guy...the internet is full of professionals who know it all. With the top rail left & 1" vertical rail at 90° on the the upper frame rail that you cut and the opposite side fully intact, it would have taken atleast 2000lbs hanging off the bumpers to compromise the frame at its fulcrum after you cut it. You did the cuts the right way, remove bed, remove suspension & cut one side then FULLY weld and rinse/repeat other side.
How dare you use math and science to form an educated comment on the internet
Frame looks great! I always like the look of an older used vehicle on-top with everything detailed and modified underneath.
I agree with you 100%!
Though you just made me realize I’m getting kinda old - if you consider the ugly truck an older used vehicle. I’ve have my GMC since it came off a lease. I’ve had it 19 years. I guess that at 22 years old my truck is “an older used vehicle”
Keep an eye on LT here. His work is definitely cool 😉👍
Hi LT,
The frame looks great! You are fortunate to not live in the rust belt. Once I get around to removing the bed on my 1999, all the crossmembers need to be replaced, as well as the rear spring hangers and probably more things that I don't know about yet. It is definitely a project. As far as the 8's go, I don't know. That is pretty quick for a full-size truck but if you do achieve ~1500 HP, it might be possible. Back in the day when I was growing up, the fastest drag cars running on gasoline (as opposed to nitro) were running 9's. Of course, they were NA and technology has come a long way since then. Thanks for the video!
-mike
I use rustoleum tractor implement paint. Thin it with acetone and a splash of hardener, then a harbor freight spray gun. Stuff is super strong and really cheap.
Am loving the series so far! That is shiny chassis!! I like it so far! It makes the job worthwhile and clean! Can't wait to see how it turns out!! Great job, LT! Many thumbs up! 👍
When using rattlecan paint and you want to reduce the gloss, back the can off to about 12 inches for the final coat. The gloss stays in the aerosol mist and doesnt apply as heavy.
@donald watson If it were me, I’d buy a semi gloss, or a matte, instead of moving back further and misting a pattern on further than you usually would, because that far away that mist you’re talking about isn’t capable of atomizing the way it is supposed on whatever you’re painting. The way you’d usually paint the coats are going to level themselves out and look smooth as glass. The way you’re talking about is going to be far from smooth as glass, it’s going to actually have a texture to it because the majority of the paint is dry before even sticking to part because of the atomizing statement I made earlier. Y’all can do it however you’d like this is just my 2 cents worth, hopefully it will help someone.
LT, always of a fan of your time lapsing and music choices! Keep up the great work! Been following you since the days of truck tech!
I have always welded the C-Channel reinforcements prior to cutting out the bottom of the frame, and had never seen it done the way you did it until your last video, but your reinforcements seemed to leave more frame at the top than I am used to, and I think your idea of supporting the rear next time would be fine. I use Krylon or Ace (which is the same thing with a different label) in satin black if I am using small cans, or Speedokote's hotrod black if I am doing enough to justify a spray gun. I hate the rustoleum spray tips. I totally agree that the flat is too flat and the semigloss seems to be too shiny. Im so glad you spent the time cleaning up that frame, that should make you happy any time you look at it for years to come.
Wow this channel is underrated. Content is super honest and educational
Just a couple of things make sure you get really good penetration when you weld your spring perches to differential, you also have to be careful while using a rear end like that where you have the axle tubes pressed into the center section, this center section will turn on the axle tubes all the sudden your pinion angle be pointed up, with the Dana sixties we weld the perimeter of the center section to the axle tubes, and finally if you watch engine Masters they did a test with Mufflers on turbos they made substantially more horsepower with no Muffler the muffler killed tons of power, you might want to take and make a test pipe to take the muffler out when racing and reinstall it when you are Street driving
I like how u welded the shock mountts to the pipe that goes across seams perfect
The work you did on the c-notch is fine. People forget that metal is actually quite a strong material. lol. Even if you would have cut both sides at the same time, you still would have had to try reeeeeealllly hard to bend it.
Make sure you clear some paint off before you put that ground back on by the spare tire or your lights will not work properly happened to me once lol. Great content keep it up
Nice work on painting the frame and I think the semi gloss looks good! Once the bed is back on as you know you won't really see much of it anyway. Can't wait to see it all done!! :)
POR15 only requires you to knock the loose stuff down during prep so might be a better option in an enclosed space
For popping those rivets off, I’ve used a good air hammer like snap on or even IR with a sharp chisel bit to pop the heads off one side and pop it through with a punch. It’ll take less time, no cutting or welding involved
I'm glad you painted that frame. Looks good.
I don't have 1500 rwhp but I do put down above 500 rwhp on the same rear end you have ( with truetrak) with no problems. I use racemaster drag radials and I'm a stock nv 3500 5 speed. My best 60 ft is a 1.81 with no cal tracks ( coming soon). So you should be at least 1.8 in the 60 ft... Maybe 1.7 if she hooks perfect .
Don't forget to install drive line hoops so when you twist the pinion shaft apart the rest of the drive line don't come out and or detonite hopefully ?
Running in the 8's will require driveshaft loops for tech.
Yup, it will get driveshaft loops at some point
@@lazyhoundracing9621 thanks for the info I'm not up on a lot of rules used to do some illegal racing some time ago had a 1971 Cutlass that was really fast thank God I'm still alive man it was a lot of fun ah the good times
it's a big truck but I'm sure with enough work you can get the ugly truck down the quarter in the mid 8's with this suspension setup. Thanks for all your hardwork staying up to get another great video out for us to watch. The truck is looking great and while I may not be as excited as you are for that new engine I'm definitely super excited to see how the build progresses.
Like you say - little bit on the 'shiny side'. But the other issue is that non catalyzed enamel just chips too easily! If you're looking for a killer paint, grab a can of VHT chassis and rollbar paint. It's got a great finish look (not too shiny, not too flat!) but the big thing is it's an epoxy paint. SUPER tough stuff. Reasonably priced as well. #notsponsored ;)
I love working my butt off vicariously through you, step by step, enjoying the process and results. Always want to see more!
LT, you know way more than I do about trucks even though I'm old enough to be you dad. But, more than the suspension, that 8.6 axle and D/S better go away as you'll be oiling down the starting line/creating shrapnel before you lift the front wheels... :)
Bro you could easily weld the whole notch kit in before cutting the frame. The last piece to weld in would be the bottom plate
I thought that was what he was going to do but then he didn't. I would have done it as you described.
good job Lawrence! coming along nicely!
Funny thing about welding on frames.
Overkill to avoid things breaking can cause things to break.
You will often see stitch welds instead of full length welds and where a weld ends there might be a hole drilled.
This is because frames flex and welds don’t, at least not at the same rate. So fractures will appear in the area around welds especially when they cross flex lines.
I know someone who is adamant that you're not supposed to drill or weld on frames. I've always been curious as to why. You see a lot of custom vehicles where they C-notch frames for lowing purposes or doing a Z cut to shorten frames and then weld them. Belltech even sells a "bolt in" C-notch which I assume means drilling holes in the frame. I honestly don't see a problem. But you're argument about frames flexing at different rates than welds really has me thinking.
@@TyNeePen15 . It was one of the things I learned doing a mechanical engineering degree.
Z notches and fish plates and diamond plates are attempts to avoid creating fracture points.
In theory that sounds logical to me, but in practice, I do know GM welds these frames together in many places, and they’re all full length welds. If they trust welds on their frame, so do I.
@@LawrenceTolman It seems that sometimes it's just that. Theory. I don't think there's any issue welding a frame. So long as it's done properly. (I can't weld worth a damn, so I can't judge anyone else).
@@LawrenceTolman if you look at where they don’t weld when they could that’s the reason why.
Wow LT doing the hard work at home no lift. I like it!!! Git ir dun! Can’t wait to see what it does at the track
You and me both!
the truck might run 8s but not with that rear axle. It will need a serious upgrade, especially with the TQ from a turbo BB.
Man that 10 bolt is already holding on for dear life, a 12 bolt or 9" is a must. The only gripe I have of gm 1/2 tons is the use of car parts on trucks. My friends and I have eaten more rearends than 4l60's.
It's cool coming back and watching the progress love it
Dude you are kicking out solid content left and right. Not only is it impressive but also appreciated!!!
well thanks for the compliment, and thanks for watching the content!
I was glad to see that frame get some paint... u won't regret that...
Nice to see the truck moving along nicely. Awesome work LT
i know you said you didnt want to paint it, but i think it was good you did. you just extended the life of the frame and it does look better.
Something to consider for weight placement if you redo the fuel system in the future. You could do a mid 90s ford truck (or bronco if you want more capacity) aft axle fuel tank. It would take some fab work to mount, but you have that covered... and nothing says traction like weight closer to the rear and in the middle not off to one side.
Good job LT Glad to see you paint the frame 👍
Great video, Sir! Going with an 8.8 in my ‘81 stepside build, but we have a 9” just in case. Looking forward to the Caltracs installation, LT, have a great week.
it looks pretty straight from the camera point of view on your frame anyways looks nice I usually take and weld the side plate on at least before I make a cut that way I have a brace of some sort and it can't go anywhere that way but good job it looks great
Great work LT if you have to worry about the frame sagging a bit which I don’t think it is you would not make any progress. Looks awesome keep rolling on.
If you don’t like the shine of the semi-gloss, try the satin black. I prefer it. Also look into the VHT chassis and rollbar paint. It also comes in satin.
The frame finish looks great.
Wheels up aspirations on an 8.6 rear! Guaranteed internet drama. Wishing you the best in channel growth!
Glad u decided to paint it looks awesome
Me too!
Digging the content. Why not try maxing out the current setup and the 8.1 by adding ring gap and going to a much larger cam and shift the power and torque higher up in the rev range so it has a chance to survive before going to your new setup? It will be interesting and provides more content 👍
Killing it sir. I've only run my truck once. It's all stock 4.8 except for the turbo fuel system on 8lbs 10° street tuned 3200 yank triple disk and level 6 RPM trans never been on a Dyno don't really know what it makes but ran a 8.9 in the 1/8th my first time out hopefully getting a full Dyno tune next month so I can get that number lower. I can't imagine getting 8s in a 1/4 especially on springs spins quite a bit now. Plan on a 3 link with coil overs when I buy a new daily and this goes full toy 🤪
Coming along nice.
It would be interesting to see how the "Not So Ugly Truck" sticks now with the old tires... Then maybe get 2 sets of stickier tires? Some sticky street tires and some drag radials or slicks.
I did a bumper in that exact Rustoleum product. It is 6 months out and the floor still has the shadow. Ain’t no thing. I guess it really means that the product has staying power.
watch your video when you jacked it up and when you let the axel drop of jack and watch how much your frame drooped. and when you dropped onto stands in front of axel, scary flex!!!😉
well when I let the jack down at that moment you're describing, that wasn't frame flex because nothing was cut yet. Because I put the jack stands toward the center of the frame, the front was raising slightly which causes the back to go down.
Man has to have goals. And one who never fails is doing nothing.
So full speed ahead
Painting the frame a good choice.
When it comes time for a cage, get your hands on a Rogue fab tube bender.
I have a RF bender and it's the best investment I have made with a lathe and mill a close second.
I’ll check em out!
Too bad they sold our drag strip to build warehouses. Back in the 90's we used redwood and the backroad pioneer crossing now occupies for our Friday night shenanigans. 😁🤙🏻big block farm trucks with lots of spray.
I don't blame you,the frame looks great. Ifyour like me, I would have been so mad if I didn't paint it. Love the videos. Thanks
I think it looks amazing, maybe a little glossy, but I'm sure one trip down the road this time of year and it will be perfect!
yeah, I wish it were a little less shiny, but in time and with some dirt and dust on it, things should sort themselves out
Much respect with retaining leaf springs and if u get the shocks and track bars adjusted it should go but tbats about a 4500 pound truck right
Yep. Jealous of your rust free-ish gmt800. I need to rockers, bed sides, one out wheel well on the bed and the cross members in the back.
Keep up with the great videos 🤘🤘
Love your show! I am doing a flip kit on my 2003 Silverado. I like the way you did your rear shocks. I think you said Viking Shocks? Do you have the part # for the shocks and the shock bracket kit holder that you used, please? You should try using Eastwood Satin black chassis paint. You brush it on. No overspray and it looks great. Thanks, Todd
Yes, they are Viking shocks, I got them and the brackets from Atomic. atomicfabandperformance.com/product/rear-shock-kit/
Nice looking welds
It should go 8s with the engine that's in it. 200hp/liter is safe on the stock bottom ( for a few passes ) on alcohol if the LS can be used as a comparison. Run 8s on the 8100 then go 7s on the stroker.
Check out extreme automatics for a 4l80e with a brake. Mitch Stapleton has an awd escalade esv running as fast as you wish with that trans set up.
I don't see any trouble getting into the 8's. 1500 HP will twist that rear end up like a pretzel. On my 53 Chevy 1/2 ton I'm running leaf springs with a quick change and Bicknel torque arm. The magic is in the shocks. Those springs have no idea if they are straight or round. I'm putting in a Chevy I6 282 dependably at 1000 HP. 2-650DP, 6-71, NOS, Falconer V-12 head, Electromotive direct fire ignition, 5 stage dry sump. My target is the 8:50 class. Watch your weight distribution. I think the general thought seems to be about 54% front and 46% rear. Keep in mind running 8"s is really really fast. That truck was not designed to go 160mph. Be safe. Thank you for your time.
I'm surprised you dont twist that quick change up off the line drag racing. I've seen em get tore up on less forgiving dirt with only 900 hp. You sir must have some special quick change . Sounds like you 2 are going to be shooting for the same class
@@chadalac1977 Yes you are correct. Frankland custom made it for me. It cost $7k. They don't like the shock in the beginning so the Bicknel torque arm with a triple biscuit and carbon fiber driveshaft have enough flex to help mitigate that. It is designed to break the lower input shaft first that isn't a big deal to change. Having a clutch instead of a button helps too.
Hell yes! You going to fab your own cage?
Once you had the outside plate welded in it was safe to cut. Don’t worry so much about negative comments about your work. It’s all top notch.
frame looks great, very satisfying 🤠
Love the video brother keep up the work the details are coming into factor keep them videos up
You should try to put a lens on the camera so we can see what you see when you weld. Worth a shot for a cool shot.
I just wish we'd get a new dragstrip near Salt Lake City since Rocky Mountain Raceway closed a few years ago.
I know, that was a bummer for sure. I think vegas is the closest 1/4, or maybe grand junction. they're about the same distance away if I remember.
I think the 9" with 31 or 35 spline axles is a good idea. Just my 2 cents. Although, I'm not too sure how you would get your ABS light to stay out (I guess you just remove the bulb from the cluster?) and function, assuming you care.
on this year of truck there is no ABS or wheel speed sensor in the rear (it uses the transmission outspeed sensor to compare against the front) so for me, I could do a 9" swap and cause no problems with the ABS
I think you’ll have a better chance of getting in the 8s with the step side with the AWD to hook. Check out Stapleton Escalade
Looks so much better!!
well every time i've had a cnotch done, they always weld the cnotch on first and then cut out the frame.
It looks good Lawrence LT Tolman!!
thanks for keeping it real, I like the nut-sert for the mock up on the suspension: you gotta use what you have right?
The Silverado 1500HD used a 9.5” ring gear 14 bolt rear diff that should have no problem handling your power goals and has plenty of locker and gears options.
Rattle can restoration. My favorite... awesome work lt🤙
A bit of droop would not be much of a problem but a twist or uneven droop would.
In my experience, the semi gloss black has too much shine. Satin finish seems to be perfect
I agree. Satin is perfect and Rustoleum makes that sheen in the enamel. I painted a drawer system I made for the rear of my extended cab truck and it looks perfect. Not too flat, not too shiny.
Wish you would’ve moved to Colorado instead so you can do all this to mine 😂 looks badass
Clean and detailed as always, keep the content coming
LT, regarding your mask comment and wire wheeling the rust: I'd suggest if you truly want to ensure clean air you need to shave that face! I have used full & half face respirators with P100 cartridges for welding and working around organic acids. The 3M Reusable Respirator, Half Face Piece 7502 is a good solid one with the appropriate filters and is not overpriced. You should fit-test it though and again you need to have a clean shaven face otherwise you will experience leak-by.
Looks great! Making me want to work on my 95 K1500!
Sure it's an annoying thing to do to clean up the frame but there are really no downsides and just looks better
Frame looks so much better LT 👍
I think so too!
awesome build if you run that axle do you think you should weld the axle tubes to the carrier 1500HP is a hell of a lot to put on that thing .and if you build a th400 transmission i hope you show the build for it i just bought a old one that was in a 71 3/4 ton truck i want to build myself
Do a small steel it coated weld without "Cleaning" the edge. Just painted surface to painted surface.
POR-15 is a good product to stop rust, can be painted over too.
Nice job, I wish I was your neighbor so we could do some work on my truck. I would love to do some of the stuff you’ve done to your trucks. But unfortunately my level of expertise is much lower. 😅
If you welded the brackets to the bottom of that crossmember would that move the mount holes down enough that the bracket could be flat and the axle bracket could be rotated down flat also?
Are you planning to move the new big block further back in the frame? Major curiosity how 4” back will effect overall weight balance.
🤣 front wheels up😂 hope you make me eat those emoji's😯. best of luck Sir😎
crazier things have happened!
Awesome work as always! 🍻
Thank you! Cheers!
Ive been watching the ugly truck build from pretty near the beginning, and im not sure how I feel about running 8's. I know its your own truck and you can do what you want, but by the time you add all the saftey gear to go 8's, I feel like the truck may loose its identity as an ugly street truck (which as it sits is pretty badass) and turn into a proper prepped drag car...
Edit: also to add to that, if youre trying to go fast, why dont you start with a single cab 2wd short bed. Less weight and just commit to a drag truck from day 1.
Nice work man. I'm curious what size is you Mig welder? Mine is a Hobart 160 or somewhere around that. If that isn't string enough I may just Tig it. My tig is a 212.
Might have to change the name to "The Vehicle Formally Known as Ugly Truck" that's looks good dude, worth the extra effort no doubt. Keep em comin'!
Nice paint indeed. I think it could make 8s.
Anything is possible just takes time and patience
Are you planning on just cutting the bed under side where the notches are and the center pumpkin, or are you taking the whole support out?
I'll start with the outer parts, and see how close it gets to the center of the diff.