Rust Removal on a 1932 FORD
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- The Tudor was being a little terd haha. What was suppose to be a simple video replacing the shackles was not much on the Tudor and back to the 32 3 window!
Shackles ended up being all set, but still have to fix the issues. I have started to get the rust off the 32 while we wait for doors, chassis and everything in between!
Thank you so much for being here I appreciate you all so much! I'm still new at all this so hopefully as the year progresses I get better!
You Guys are the real deal...the work is sometimes hard and ten minute jobs turn into hours...nice to see how You Guys interact with each other [ maybe there's a few choice words off camera but that's also part of it..😝]...Hope all Your dreams come true...Keep up the good work
Thank you so much!! Such a nice comment! We’re trying for sure 🙌🏻🏁
Great stuff Kelly !! Thank you for sharing your journey !! Just take your time and please be very careful!! So easy to get hurt. The best step to learning is to be willing to learn !! I believe you have that step for sure . Be careful and God bless you and your family !!!! Eddy
Aww thank you so much!! I definitely ask a lot of questions haha. I’d rather ask and be safe lol. Thank you so much for your support! Means so much!
Thank you for wearing the safety glasses!!!!!! :):):)
Anytime 😎
Good job working together but that seemed sketch. Glad you got it done and no one died.
Haha it definitely was a bit sketchy
You should get the frame powder coated and the inside of the body primed and painted. 1:03
great job!!!! She looks beautlful!!! please us updated. ❤
Making good progress, keep it up Kelly!
Thank you!!
very cool , your doing awesome , see you on the next one , im on the way there now ,
I am at an age “84” that I like to make myself comfortable when doing car work. My best friend
is an old throw rug and an old bath towel. They are great when doing work under car, an old
towel when working under hood. This makes things so much more comfortable. I keep these
In my trunk for storage..never know when I have to change out a flat tire or even help someone
in trouble. Also a handy tow rope too. So simple to think ahead.😊
Good idea!
Kelly, your really into it! Once Upon a time... Built a 32 window in High School 63' still have and still Runs Great Mighty Olds Power. It's great they make so much stuff today to restore. Had junk yards and some speed shops back then. Your tools are only as good as the person using them. The Best of luck with your 32 and I will be watching, Frank
Looking much better already. U.K. really enjoying your great down to earth channel. 🇬🇧
Thanks for keeping the hobby going ! Pretty soon those boys will be out there grinding and making sparks fly too. Great family fun !
Haha they come out often and absolutely love it!! Thanks for watching!
Travis asked for suggestions for doing the shackle switch with the reverse eye spring and "in the car". I watched Iron Trap Garage do a reverse eye spring install on a 39 Convert this morning and they did it with the entire assembly OUT OF THE CAR. More to the point, they put the bottom leaf ONLY on the shackles first than finished assembling the spring. Don't know if that would work in the car but it certainly would make flattening that spring easier !!! You might be able to drop the entire assembly from the front crossmember, take the spring apart, install the shackles, and re-assemble the spring. ????
That’s what he was thinking of doing!
great job. small victory's gets the job done.
That’s exactly it!
Hi Trav and Kelly , great job on the '32 . You can make an adjustable spreader bar for the transverse spring stretching to meet the shackle with tubing treaded rod , some nuts and steel plate . There has gotta be plans out there for making them . My '47 Ford shop manuel explains the how to of their way of doing it . The '40 looks wonderful . Back in the day my big brother had a '41 Ford business coupe . He needed someone to start it for him one day when he was working on it . He showed me and I started it for him . I was no more than 4 years old , remember it like yesterday ,and yes he's the one I bought my '32 from . To me it will always be his '32 I'm just in charge of taking care of it !
The standard Ford spring spreader works wonders with a standard-eye spring & should be a 'must have' tool in any Ford Hot Rodder's tool kit, but has nowhere to mount on a reverse eye spring. That renders this essential tool essentially useless in such applications.
@@KB10GL Great point forgot about the reverse eye spring . Could the eye end be raised up with a jack under it safely enough ?
@@homespuntools2115 Yeah, that's what I was thinking.
The old sedans like the 32 is a little out of my wheel house more of a truck guy my self but could not resist all that old iron you guys have Keep it up you have some content
I love trucks too. We have a roadster pickup, not sure if you’ve seen it? It’s like my favorite thing lol. Thank you so much for watching & supporting!
Just an idea, take the spring out and off the axle, leave the axle in the car, put the original main leaf back in taking out the reverse eye, and put back the longer shackles.
Long shackles with the original spring may be the right combination..
@02:31 Yes, for sure you do!, my thoughts from a while back. (There are working trousers with them built in! Handy!)👴👌😉
Team work
Only way to make it work!
The 1932 Ford three window coupe was, as far as I know, sold only as a DeLuxe model. & quite possibly only as a model 18 [V8] as well. As a DeLuxe, it would have had cowl lights & the round lead patches near the corner of the windscreen are likely to be filling the cowl light holes.
Personally, I regard lead as the best material for filling wherever a filler material is needed.
As for rust removal in unreachable places, I suggest the RediStrip process. I had my grossly crud encrusted 1957 engine block hot tanked to remove the crud/sludge, then a 110 mile trip to my nearest RediStrip shop [Sydney, Australia] for coolant passage rust removal & final cleaning. It came out almost sterile clean & was well worth it.
Their chemical dip tanks can handle Caddy sized bodies, so early Fords are no problem. Abrasive blasting has no chance to reach & de-rust these places that are not visible with the naked eye.
Your '36 coupe would benefit from this once the body work is done to remove the ongoing corrosion that is eating the lower seams & crevices that would ultimately destroy all your work with rust-throughs years down the track.
Model B version of the 1932 3W coupe was a 4 cylinder engine. The V8 cars have a VIN that starts 18- and that’s how you can tell.
@@johnkelly6942 I accept that most [if not all] of what you say is true, but it's my understanding that the three window was a bit special. I believe that it was available as a De-Luxe only, hence the cowl lights. As for being a model 18 only, I don't really know. And yes, after I am quite familiar with the '32 models generally & many of its running production changes including chassis strengthening, the hood louver changes & two versions of the 4 cylinder engine [model B & C]
I don't have a car [I'm a '32 & '33 Dodge owner] but after sixty years as a Hot Rodder I have seen a few of these cars as they passed through my home garage when I helped fix them up for friends. [Australian models only] I have an original '32 Ford RHD owners manual & US parts book so I have at least a little research material, but not enough to be sure about all of the 1932 three window variations.
A little pedantic here. The international "VIN" is a 17 character long vehicle identification while the number stamped into the chassis of cars made prior to the introduction of this heavily encoded 'VIN' was commonly known quite simply as the 'Chassis Number' Sometimes some detail was encoded, such as point of manufacture by using blocks of serials allocated to different factories, but usually little else. Ford used a prefix for the model code [18 or B for 1932, or 40 for 1933 & 34, then 58 for 1935 etc.] Chrysler Corp cars used the car model code as a prefix in the engine number.
Kelly, Regarding stripping rust back to clean metal Wray from Proshaper ( just down the road from you) recommends to use muriatic acid. It works really well.
He has a video or two on it on his channel.
Thanks for the tip!
You need an axle spreader!
👍
😊
Your neighbors must hate you guys,I know mine dose when iam grinding or painting.keep it up.
They are thankfully really good to us! We’re friends with all of them
Ami en mi particular me encanta eso de andar entre fierros viejos muy interesante
It definitely is!
Safety third 😊JR🇨🇦
Chickens and a coupe ... ah chicken coupe ! Sorry but someone had to say it , Dad joke !
😂😂😂
Listen to your wife Travis....😄
😂😂