thank you. Rang a plumber quoted £60 then he didnt turn up. Bought the valve and ball and watched you. Job done. Hardest part was getting into the loft.
That's an absolutely BRILLIANT video !! Clear, concise and short. Delivered and presented in a warm and friendly manner. Fabulous ! Thanks friend for posting this.
Thanks mate, not done the job yet but ill get on it next week. Been watching your vids for years since becoming a home owner and whenever the need arises, your vid will always pop up. Youve probably saved me a fair few quid over the years so cheers!
@@dereton33 I might add for my own situation I live in a high limescale area. As a result the fittings were corroded and seized. A huge amount of WD-40 and a decent helping of elbow grease got us moving. All the videos on RUclips made this part look easy 😂
Thanks Al. You're a lifesaver. My Mum's part 1 Portsmouth on her F&E tank has started dripping and overflowing. I've got a ball valve repair kit with new washers, plastic seats, etc. This vid will help get the valve out, and when you do the part 1 overhaul vid, I will know how to service the valve. Many thanks for your excellent and enjoyable vids. Good to have the knowledge of a pro. Keep up the hard work and thanks again.
Thank you so much for such a clear video which saved the day - we had had a week of leaking water and we worried to call for a plumber as we are shielding .My son watched your video and was able to go up and changed the part successfully such a relief ! Thank you again .
Thank You so much for this. I managed to follow your video (after watching it a few times) and got the parts and fixed the new ball valve. No more pouring water from the back pipes. You, Sir, are a Gem.
DIY newbie here! Clear instruction here was super helpful and has saved me £85 which I was quoted from a plumber. Also saved us going nuts with the constant overflow dripping noise 24/7!
Big thank you to the gentleman who made this video. From me not even knowing what the overflow pipe was for to following this instruction and completing the job in 10 mins deserves thanks. Same spec on mine - old part 1 valve now replaced with part 2 valve. And job all done in 10 mins! This video will tell you all you need to know. Excellent! Thank you dereton33.
This has been really useful, if I hadn't found this video I'd still be trying to remove the valve right now instead of going out to get a new one. Thanks for showing everyone how to do it.
Very useful and saved me a call out fee...notice the water coming out from the overflow pipe at midnight...search for solution then found you. Thanks a lot man.
I’m not one for commenting on posts/videos but 👏👏👏 . Moved into a new house - the water hammer when running the shower was awful (a flick of the cold water tap would sometimes fix it). I replaced the header tank float valve assembly and it went away. One month on and Durrrrr. Noise back. Replaced the float valve in the cold water tank and silence has been restored.
Thank you, replaced mine today (water jetting from the overflow) and only had to make one trip into the loft thanks to your video... As they say knowledge is power, thanks once again.
Al, thanks for great video, I was thinking I had to replace all the lot that is the pipe entering the tank but you showed just refit the new valve to the existing inlet. Saved a lot of time and hey now I'm a plumber! !!! Thanks again. Eric
You, Sir, are a STAR! Every tradesman I've ever employed, without exception, has either done a terrible job or tried to rip me off - or both (usually both!). How I wish you were my plumber..... you know what you're doing and obviously not afraid to share it without it costing me a penny! I did exactly as you said and the leak is fixed. The only problem now is the numpty who installed the cistern in the loft has routed the overflow pipe over the top of the tank, which means the tank must be brimming over before any dribbles into the overflow. He probably thought 'This ballcock will last 10 years before it starts to leak, by which time I'll have ripped off enough people to have retired.....' I despair.
Hi Deretan, just done mime, boosted by the simplicity shown in the video and confidence from some of the previous posters who have managed to also do this for themselves. I replaced the whole thing, going out of the tank into the feeder pipe connecting into it. It took me a few hours as my tank is one with a small hatch and only a limited amount of space to get at the parts. Don't forget the PTFE tape or you will get a dribble coming out. As was tightening up first time round I inadvertently undid a 2" existing 'junction?'. Anyway all's well and good and the job cost the princely sum of £5 !!!!!!
Hello Al, just to say a big thanks for posting this tutorial, had an overflow leak for a few weeks and wasn't looking forward to plumbers fees! anyhow after watching this, went out and brought a new ballcock and valve and fitted it myself today, the old one was submerged under the water (plastic float somehow full of water) a lot easier than i thought it would be to replace and so far all is working well!!
Many thanks for this video, gave me hope - in my house expansion tank was obviously suspended from a crane and the house built round it - seriously thought I was going to have to cut the pipe work to slide the thing out to replace the valve. You video showing the coupling allowed me to check with phone camera and sure enough there it was - really pain getting step ladder in loft but managed to do the job semi by feel alone. Overflow stopped but German Shepherd upset - don’t ask ..... Thank you Sir, you are a gentleman Davy
Cheers mate, brilliant video. As a hamfisted groundworker I usually avoid anything that can't be solved without a 25 ton machine but following your video I successfully changed the whole ball valve. Took less than ten minutes. Thanks a lot, I'll be trying a lot more fiddly stuff in future.
Cheers Derek, our valve wasn't overflowing but was going off like a foghorn everytime we had a shower ! Just replaced the whole ballcock valve only £5 from the local plumber.
Thank you, finally sorted an overflow that’s been dripping for a while! I got the part 2 from screwfix for £7 with no problems, but I’m in a hard water area so the old one was incredible scaled up and couldn’t remove it inside the tank, instead I took it off from the outside like in your video - how to renew a tank valve that is overflowing It was very helpful and useful. Elizabeth
Great video in a apprentice about to do this today on my own but supervised and my nerves get me but this video has helped me drill it into my head and show myself it's not complicated and can be done by anyone
Hey Al, just a thought. You should edit this video to say at the start to turn the water off (for the sake of any smart phone users already in the loft) Cheers!
As per usual great video with worthwhile information..Both Dereton 33 and Tom Plumb on youtube have greatly helped me with my confidence as a newly qualified plumber and gas engineer...Thanks
My wife has just done this. Took a while to free off the threads as all limescaled up. But she did it. (I can't fit through the loft hatch!) very clear video. Many thanks.
Thanx V.Much! I had a problem + the hot water tap, making terrible noises! But your easy Vid. has shown me how to rectify the problem, thus have saved myself £200, having not having to get a Plumber out! Yippee! :) Keep up + the Vids., you've got me hooked.
This guys has a video for everything!!! I have to say a thank you to him because he's helped me out a good few times. My water tank is constantly trickling, I hear it at night and throughout the day but I can't see any water leaking from the over flow pipes and I don't have a leak anywhere... I don't figure out what's going on.
Also if the heating tank is full and overflowing but the valve isn't letting bye or you have replaced it recently the cylinder could have a hole in the coil and be leaking though had this happen once
Many thanks for the instructions ...top video for a DIY simpleton like me :-)... got a new type 2 (as shown on video) from Screwfix for less than £8 ... needed to wire brush old valve and spray it with penetrating oil because it is about 40 years old. It was a tight fit scrambling in the loft but eventually got it sorted after following the video. Thanks again pal.
Hi, great video, only wish the top came of like that, we have a plastic tank but a small inspection opening, seems in possibility to access the ball cock, any advice would be very appreciated, thanks
dereton33 hi thanks for the reply, we have a cut off valve on the outside with a nut which holds the ball cock, so i undo the outside side nut and replace the hole of the ball and tighten the outer nut on the tank, thanks
dereton33, thanks so much for your great advice, just one more question, do i need to turn off the water supply or would the just cut off valve be fine, thanks
Those covers if you have a round or square plastic tank do just pull off , it`s just that they feel as if they are suctioned on , give em a good pull. Kind regards al.
I have a big galvanised steel cold storage tank in my attic. I'm trying to find out it if it ever had a lid, It has a similar vent pipe like yours above it which leads me to believe it probably never had one. Did your tank come with a lid?
Okay so watched your video over the weekend after enough of a old leaky seals and bad overflow to the point it was splashing over, but wouldn't overflow. However after I fixed it, I have noticed the last couple of days after running the taps for dishes, washing hands etc, a noise comes through the pipes, like a drill into a wall, it's not hammering I'd say, but for 10-20 seconds a sound can be heard. It may continuously fill up before but never hear that sound, what should or can I do, may I have done something wrong? 😊
@@dereton33 okay, so I have replaced the 1/2" Part 1 High Pressure Brass Ball Valve with another brass one, And noW I get a really loud, pro longed hum sound with no knocking down the pipes while it fills up, but didn't get that before fixing the leaky unit 😅 May I have done something wrong, even indirectly? *for extra information this is my cold water tank I have replaced it in, I live in a old house where cold fire is how I have hot water in my radiators and taps and immersion for just taps*
Hi mate your videos are very helpful. My header tank is not filling and I have no hot water but cold taps are all fine. Will replacing the ballcock do it? It's not going up and down as it should.
Hi Al, great videos! Quick question. I’m going to replace the ball valve in the tank in the loft as the water level cuts off above the overflow level. The thing I don’t understand is that there is no water coming out of the overflow outside the building! So my question is, do these overflows get blocked? As you know, the water shouldn’t get to the overflow level but as it does, my problem is I’m getting a little drip from the overflow fitting leaving the tank which over time has brought the bathroom ceiling down! 🤦🏻♂️ Any answer much appreciated. Cheers
@@dereton33 Thanks for the reply, Al. I have checked and there is nothing coming out where it leaves the building which is why I thought it may be blocked. The diameter just seemed quite wide for a blockage, but whoever was up there tampering last left the lid off of the tank so god knows what’s gotten down there! Will just poke some clean rods down there and see what happens! Cheers
Hi, I am trying to remove an old domestic cold water storage tank valve. Very worried as it is leaking bad and covered in limescale also a galvanised rusty tank, I would really appreciate any advice. Thank you.
I thought water would still come out. When the balls not on is it closed by default. As I need to change the isolation valve that's on that same pipe. As its a plastic one and the slot s mashed up so would i need to drain system to swap it. Would water gush out when I take out the plastic push fit valve off?
I'm comfused. If I'm side on to tank and the valve is adjacent to me on the left side when i put the wrench on what direction loosens it . Towards me or away from me. Thanks
A Part 1 is very old and can be noisy for sure but its hardly horrible, it's a tried and tested design and they are very reliable. Certainly much more reliable than the more expensive plastic "tat" you find in todays cistern's.
I've two cold water tanks in the loft each 70 gallons and a cold water feed to the ball cock valve that has to be turned off via the house mains stop cock in the kitchen. I've now fitted a lever full bore 15mm isolation valve just outside of the tank to isolate the ball valve. When replacing a ball cock you must switch water off to isolate the ball valve water because it'sfull mains pressure.
Hi dere thank you for your simple down to earth steps to what's usually a scary confusing thing, we have a plastic ball valve the arm is plastic like a jointed arm, we are trying to figure out is it the same steps 🤔🙋♀️
Thanks for the video. Followed the instructions, as my water bill had more than doubled overnight some time ago and I eventually found that water had been continually flowing into the tank. Had to turn the water off in the street, as I couldn't turn the tap to the tank (nor the other internal stopcock). Replaced the valve and ballcock with a new one. It seems screwed on ok and is in position, but when I turned the water back on, the tank isn't filling up as I use the water. Not a drop is coming through, even if I move the ballcock up and down. I'm not sure what is wrong, but I may have to call a plumber out after all if no water comes through and the tank empties without being refilled.
+dereton33 Thanks. I'm waiting to try and get hold of the water company now, as the outside stop valve is a total nightmare to turn and I have been trying to turn it since yesterday afternoon. Even my next door neighbour, who is a strong guy, was having trouble turning it. It feels crunchy and not smooth when it turns. I currently have no water coming into the house and am just using up what was in the tank.
+dereton33 I've just averted a mini disaster! Thames Water came, due to my having no water. The guy said, on trying to turn the external stop valve: “It’s broken; someone’s broken it. That’s chargeable”. I think he took pity on me after asking who it was who turned it and looking at my face, as he then messed about with it for a few minutes and said: “I’ve fixed it. It would have cost you £400”. After the water was turned back on, I then had a flooding in the loft, with water coming through two floors and into the living room on the ground floor. The water was flooding out of a pipe that leads into the tank - even though I went outside and turned off the supply once again. I put a container underneath, but this kept overflowing and I couldn't keep up with emptying the buckets. It's still coming through the ceiling now. Somehow, I must have loosened a nut on the pipe going into the tank when screwing on the new valve, but I couldn't see where the water was coming from, as it was running along the pipe. To cut a long story short, I phoned my usual plumber, who wasn't available, unsurprisingly. I then ran next door and my neighbour was able to trace the source of the leak and tighten the nut that I must have loosened when putting on the new valve. So, he seems to have saved me the cost of an emergency callout fee. I must have just saved over £500 in the space of a couple of hours! Part of the problem was that all the nuts and bolts were ancient and incredibly corroded, silted up and hard to budge - just like the stop cocks. Moral of the story: It's best to have some idea of what you're doing first - and to learn well from your mistakes. Also, be incredibly gentle with the stop valve outside, as it's extremely fragile (and expensive). It's helpful if you can get a second person to hold one of the spanners with extremely stiff and corroded nuts, so you can turn with both hands - and to hold the torch. The guy from the water company said it's a good idea to turn all stopcocks on and off twice a year to prevent them from seizing up.
Yes, it's been a good learning process. Another tip is a) to make sure you get the right size ball. I thought I measured mine correctly, but got the smaller one by mistake. b) Bend the metal arm before fitting. (I saw someone do it by bending around his bent knee). I've found it impossible to bend it once in place - and can't face taking it off again to bend, in case I get more problems. These two things have meant that the level is too high and water is now coming out of my overflow pipe. I've ordered a larger ball and hope that this brings the level down just enough.
Quick question Al, when you unscrewed the arm, it seemed as though you were going in the direction to tighten it up and when you put the new one on, it seemed as you were unscrewing it? Are they opposite threads? cheers
Hi Dereton, most of these regular household ones usually give a range of a usable float ball as being 'a choice' between 4½, 5 and 6in. My question is - in what way do these size differences of the actual ball - affect the operation of the mechanism? Thanks in advance.
Thanks for this. Successfully replaced my ball valve and is working okay. I have noticed that the pipes running from downstairs to the tank are a lot noisier when the water is flowing into the tank. I cannot see any other reason for it other than it is a new fitting as I have done nothing else. Any ideas please. Cheers????
FredClobber Your pressure may be too high try turning the stopcock down and slowing the pressure to the valve. Other than that you could fit a ballafix valve on the inlet to the tank and just crack it open so it fills slower. I have a video on how to fit one of those. Al.
dereton33 That makes sense as there is no other reason for it to suddenly do it. I will give it a go. If not I will try the other suggestion. Thank you very much for all your help.
Try turning your main stopcock down so that your water flows slower, the stopcock is usually under the sink , so turn your stopcock right off, then open your kitchen tap , turn the stopcock gradually on until you have a flow that is not too fast.
Hi man wonder could you help the smaller tank in the Attic I think it's the hot water tank for the heating. It was constantly over flowing out of the over pipe outside. So i put a new ballcock on the tank yet after a few hours it stills over flow outside . No leaks from the new ballcock . How can it still fill up it's driving me nuts no matter what I do it still overflows. Any ideas why Thanks
dereton33 I went on the roof and no buckets up there or under the house.Only overflow pipe going outside the roof.Its a old electric Rheem Alfa low pressure hot water cylinder.Please help
I love your video's. Very informative for a novice like myself. I don't do DIY but I'm going to try this myself as it looks easy enough (famous last words!) LOL :D
Great video as always. I brought a replacement but doesn’t seem to fit into the existing as in vid - just kept turning .. is there a reason for this ? Had to put the old one back on. Stupid question but as it’s gravity fed system are these High pressure valves correct ones ? Sorry another one - I swear I watched a vid which you mentioned how to install the isolator valve for the header tank - or did I make that one up. Thanks in advance
I did make a video for fitting an isolation valve it is on my channel. High pressure valves are the correct ones for roof tanks. The threads are sometimes different, so do not fit, in which case you will have to change the complete valve.
Ahh I just seen the end of vid that's how you stopped the water lol. I'm guessing I would need to stop the water to change the valve. I'll watch your other vid!
Thanks for sharing this I have changed ours with your help :) The copper pipe that bent towards the top of tank I have knocked should that be above or below water level please ?
As mentioned on another video firstly familiarise yourself with matters before venturing into the loft. Go through everything and in the process you won't leave anything behind spanners or whatever when you venture into the loft. , and if your going to keep the old float and reuse then clean it up first, remove the limescale on it, especially important for heavy limescale areas. Mike
What is that pipe in the middle to do with @4:06 in between his hands? Our pipe in the middle won't stop pouring water at times and the overflow keeps going.
Great advice on how to replace the valve, but you really need to replace the whole tank! Those black spots are biofilm. The gel coat on the inside of your GRP tank has started to fail, and each spot contains microbes, legionella or other, which could give you problems. If you clean and disinfect the tank then you're good for a short while, but the spots will come back, maybe in a few years, maybe in a few months.
What are the chances of that? I put a search in for changing cold water float valve, chose your vid, and then realised that you are the people with the Actifry XL video recipe's that I use. I think that makes you the epitome of diverse. By the way your plumbing video's are as good as your cookery ones. Thanks.
Al, when I've looked online to buy the part it's says 'Part 1' or'Part 3' or 'Part 1 1/2' How do I know which one I need for a normal household tank in my loft?
Hi Al, I'm looking to do this in my loft, as it looks exactly the same as yours! When it comes to turning the water off, all I have is the stopcock out by my water meter in the pavement outside. Will this be sufficient? Or would it be worth turning a cold tap on after turning off the supply, just to drain some of the water away from the supply to the loft tank? Thanks in advance!
I've just replaced the (Part 1 ?) ball valve Like for like. I was a little confused because it said on the box "Suitable for gravity fed systems" but the water tank is fed from the mains,. Also the float arm is Straight and t non adjustable and now the water level is only about 1/2 inch from the overflow. I've tried bending it a little bit but I don't want to over do it
dereton33 Thanks for the helpful video. I was wondering about the thread size too. Mine has a slow drip. There are some advertised as 1/2" or 3/4". Possibly best I check before going to plumber merchant ?
hi. I have a MEGAflo tank but started to make noise whenever I use the hot water? what do I need to do? change the ballcock valve (if it has one) or is to do with pressure. Please help
I bought a 1/2 inch part 2 bal valve to replace my old part 1. However on attempting to fit it the diameter of the the ball valve connecter was too small to fit the tank coupling. Does this mean i need a 3/4 inch ball valve. Have refitted the old Part 1 and still leaking.
I wish I understand. Just a simple seaman here. My tank side coupling fits my old ball valve which is diameter 30mm. My part 2 is only 25 mm diameter.......Help
Hi, the ballcock was replaced in the tank , But now when the toilet is flushed the pipes rumble throughout the house. This only started since the ballcock was replaced. Any idea please?
A part 1 fitted instead of a part 2. If it is a part two model making the noise, you can get a silent fill valve for the roof tank. As a cheap fix you may try turning the flow rate down vis the main stopcock.
Hi. I like to know if i can remove the water tank roof and connect the cold water to cobert tank is that possible? Why we need the big cold water tank in the roof?
Hi, I'm from Dublin, Ireland. Grinding sound coming from the cold water tank while filling it. Can I ask, Is that the problem with bad ballcock? Now connected part-1 ballcock. Can replace this with Part-2? Thank You...
Hi Dereton33, Can I ask, Is this OK to replace the ball cock from the outer side of the tank? I meant by using full of the new ball valve, becuase our tank has shades at the inner sides, so difficult to unscrew from the inner side. Thank You
Thanks for sharing this video - it's really useful. Is there any device that can be attached to the spout to reduce the noise it makes when the tank is refilling? Maybe a flexible tube that goes from the spout into the water. If so, is there a technical name for this?
+Paul Dowsett There used to be a plastic tube on them years ago to sort out the noise but now they are illegal, in case water gets sucked back down from the roof tank to a cold tap. EU strikes again.
thank you. Rang a plumber quoted £60 then he didnt turn up. Bought the valve and ball and watched you. Job done. Hardest part was getting into the loft.
Yes a bit hot today.
6 years later I can assure you getting any plumber out to do this is just as difficult.
That's an absolutely BRILLIANT video !! Clear, concise and short. Delivered and presented in a warm and friendly manner.
Fabulous ! Thanks friend for posting this.
No problem.
dereton33 I would feel very confident having you in my home doing work you seem like a nice man 👍🏼
Thanks mate, not done the job yet but ill get on it next week. Been watching your vids for years since becoming a home owner and whenever the need arises, your vid will always pop up. Youve probably saved me a fair few quid over the years so cheers!
No problem please to have helped you out.
U saved me €250...10 years after u posted this, thank you very much!
Glad I could help! Never too late. As they say. Plumbing never changes much.
@@dereton33 I might add for my own situation I live in a high limescale area. As a result the fittings were corroded and seized. A huge amount of WD-40 and a decent helping of elbow grease got us moving. All the videos on RUclips made this part look easy 😂
Thanks Al. You're a lifesaver. My Mum's part 1 Portsmouth on her F&E tank has started dripping and overflowing. I've got a ball valve repair kit with new washers, plastic seats, etc.
This vid will help get the valve out, and when you do the part 1 overhaul vid, I will know how to service the valve.
Many thanks for your excellent and enjoyable vids. Good to have the knowledge of a pro. Keep up the hard work and thanks again.
Thank you so much for such a clear video which saved the day - we had had a week of leaking water and we worried to call for a plumber as we are shielding .My son watched your video and was able to go up and changed the part successfully such a relief ! Thank you again .
No problem Wren.
Thank You so much for this. I managed to follow your video (after watching it a few times) and got the parts and fixed the new ball valve. No more pouring water from the back pipes.
You, Sir, are a Gem.
No problem Janet.
DIY newbie here! Clear instruction here was super helpful and has saved me £85 which I was quoted from a plumber. Also saved us going nuts with the constant overflow dripping noise 24/7!
Glad it helped!
Big thank you to the gentleman who made this video. From me not even knowing what the overflow pipe was for to following this instruction and completing the job in 10 mins deserves thanks. Same spec on mine - old part 1 valve now replaced with part 2 valve. And job all done in 10 mins! This video will tell you all you need to know. Excellent! Thank you dereton33.
No problem. Al.
This has been really useful, if I hadn't found this video I'd still be trying to remove the valve right now instead of going out to get a new one.
Thanks for showing everyone how to do it.
No problem Ash.
Very useful and saved me a call out fee...notice the water coming out from the overflow pipe at midnight...search for solution then found you. Thanks a lot man.
Chun Song Lee No problem Chun.
I’m not one for commenting on posts/videos but 👏👏👏 . Moved into a new house - the water hammer when running the shower was awful (a flick of the cold water tap would sometimes fix it). I replaced the header tank float valve assembly and it went away. One month on and Durrrrr. Noise back. Replaced the float valve in the cold water tank and silence has been restored.
Thank you, replaced mine today (water jetting from the overflow) and only had to make one trip into the loft thanks to your video... As they say knowledge is power, thanks once again.
No problem.
Al, thanks for great video, I was thinking I had to replace all the lot that is the pipe entering the tank but you showed just refit the new valve to the existing inlet. Saved a lot of time and hey now I'm a plumber! !!! Thanks again. Eric
efoster494 The more plumbers the better. ha ha.
You, Sir, are a STAR! Every tradesman I've ever employed, without exception, has either done a terrible job or tried to rip me off - or both (usually both!). How I wish you were my plumber..... you know what you're doing and obviously not afraid to share it without it costing me a penny! I did exactly as you said and the leak is fixed. The only problem now is the numpty who installed the cistern in the loft has routed the overflow pipe over the top of the tank, which means the tank must be brimming over before any dribbles into the overflow. He probably thought 'This ballcock will last 10 years before it starts to leak, by which time I'll have ripped off enough people to have retired.....' I despair.
The bad tradesmen are out there along with the good.
Hi Deretan, just done mime, boosted by the simplicity shown in the video and confidence from some of the previous posters who have managed to also do this for themselves.
I replaced the whole thing, going out of the tank into the feeder pipe connecting into it. It took me a few hours as my tank is one with a small hatch and only a limited amount of space to get at the parts. Don't forget the PTFE tape or you will get a dribble coming out. As was tightening up first time round I inadvertently undid a 2" existing 'junction?'. Anyway all's well and good and the job cost the princely sum of £5 !!!!!!
***** Well thats a good £50.00 at least you have saved on calling out a plumber, well done.
Hello Al, just to say a big thanks for posting this tutorial, had an overflow leak for a few weeks and wasn't looking forward to plumbers fees! anyhow after watching this, went out and brought a new ballcock and valve and fitted it myself today, the old one was submerged under the water (plastic float somehow full of water) a lot easier than i thought it would be to replace and so far all is working well!!
That`s great to hear, saved yourself a few bob.
Many thanks for this video, gave me hope - in my house expansion tank was obviously suspended from a crane and the house built round it - seriously thought I was going to have to cut the pipe work to slide the thing out to replace the valve.
You video showing the coupling allowed me to check with phone camera and sure enough there it was - really pain getting step ladder in loft but managed to do the job semi by feel alone.
Overflow stopped but German Shepherd upset - don’t ask .....
Thank you Sir, you are a gentleman
Davy
No problem Davy.
Cheers mate, brilliant video. As a hamfisted groundworker I usually avoid anything that can't be solved without a 25 ton machine but following your video I successfully changed the whole ball valve. Took less than ten minutes. Thanks a lot, I'll be trying a lot more fiddly stuff in future.
Thank-you sir, saved me a small fortune on a plumber call out over a bank holiday weekend!
That's great have a beer on me.Al.
Cheers Derek, our valve wasn't overflowing but was going off like a foghorn everytime we had a shower ! Just replaced the whole ballcock valve only £5 from the local plumber.
That`s great.
Quality video. i was going to dismantal half the pipe work. Pays to watch a video to save yourself 3 hours work and a flooded loft. Cheers Al
Thank you, finally sorted an overflow that’s been dripping for a while!
I got the part 2 from screwfix for £7 with no problems, but I’m in a hard water area so the old one was incredible scaled up and couldn’t remove it inside the tank, instead I took it off from the outside like in your video - how to renew a tank valve that is overflowing
It was very helpful and useful.
Elizabeth
No problem pleased you sorted it Elizabeth.
Great video in a apprentice about to do this today on my own but supervised and my nerves get me but this video has helped me drill it into my head and show myself it's not complicated and can be done by anyone
+Joshua Collingwood good for you. Keep st it you will be fine
Hey Al, just a thought.
You should edit this video to say at the start to turn the water off (for the sake of any smart phone users already in the loft)
Cheers!
Yes a good idea , I always just presume .Regards,Al.
Brilliant piece of advice
As per usual great video with worthwhile information..Both Dereton 33 and Tom Plumb on youtube have greatly helped me with my confidence as a newly qualified plumber and gas engineer...Thanks
jimbob jimbob No problems and good luck with it. Al.
My wife has just done this. Took a while to free off the threads as all limescaled up. But she did it. (I can't fit through the loft hatch!) very clear video. Many thanks.
No problem Mark.
Thank you. This may be the first DIY job I have undertaken that went down without any fuss!
No problem.
Thanx V.Much! I had a problem + the hot water tap, making terrible noises! But your easy Vid. has shown me how to rectify the problem, thus have saved myself £200, having not having to get a Plumber out! Yippee! :) Keep up + the Vids., you've got me hooked.
Thanks Rob, pleased you sorted it OK.
Thanks to this man i have now saved on a plummer and done it my self. Thanks for putting this video on .
This guys has a video for everything!!! I have to say a thank you to him because he's helped me out a good few times. My water tank is constantly trickling, I hear it at night and throughout the day but I can't see any water leaking from the over flow pipes and I don't have a leak anywhere... I don't figure out what's going on.
Change the roof tank valve.
Maybe it's not the fill valve but the vent pipe pumping over in the loft?
Also if the heating tank is full and overflowing but the valve isn't letting bye or you have replaced it recently the cylinder could have a hole in the coil and be leaking though had this happen once
Many thanks for the instructions ...top video for a DIY simpleton like me :-)... got a new type 2 (as shown on video) from Screwfix for less than £8 ... needed to wire brush old valve and spray it with penetrating oil because it is about 40 years old. It was a tight fit scrambling in the loft but eventually got it sorted after following the video. Thanks again pal.
Pete Moxon No problem. Al.
Thanks, just called into screwfix on the way home and bought the valve shown. Turned the water off swapped them over and no more overflowing :)
PS is the water in that tank going to any taps as I sure hope I am not washing my teeth everyday in that crud ?
If your cold feed is going to the bathroom basin tap then you may be brushing your teeth in it.
Another excellent video. Straightforward and easy to follow instructions. Thanks
Glad you enjoyed it
Hi, great video, only wish the top came of like that, we have a plastic tank but a small inspection opening, seems in possibility to access the ball cock, any advice would be very appreciated, thanks
Remove the whole valve by undoing the swivel connector and undoing the back nut on the valve.
dereton33 hi thanks for the reply, we have a cut off valve on the outside with a nut which holds the ball cock, so i undo the outside side nut and replace the hole of the ball and tighten the outer nut on the tank, thanks
Yes it is the easiest way when you cannot get access through the lid on top.
dereton33, thanks so much for your great advice, just one more question, do i need to turn off the water supply or would the just cut off valve be fine, thanks
The cut off valve will be fine to cut the water off.
Those covers if you have a round or square plastic tank do just pull off , it`s just that they feel as if they are suctioned on , give em a good pull.
Kind regards
al.
I have a big galvanised steel cold storage tank in my attic. I'm trying to find out it if it ever had a lid, It has a similar vent pipe like yours above it which leads me to believe it probably never had one. Did your tank come with a lid?
The old iron tanks never did. New plastic ones do.
The tank is filling to replace the water that your cistern used when you flushed it. If the tank valve is noisy then replace it.
Great video. I'm getting lots of noise from the pipes. I have a combo boiler and hot water tank. Does hot water tank need ball valve changed?
You can get a quiet fill valve.
@@dereton33 any link to where to get it from
Great video - very useful and saved us a call out fee. (And thanks for confirming the fitting size as well!)
Hi Paula, yes those plumbers losing work because of me, are not very happy but I know you are. He he.
It’s great watching a true tradesmen doing a job and sharing things his learnt - much appreciated.
P B Wright - Handyman
No problem.
would this cause the overflow pipe outside at roof level to constant leak?
Yes.
@@dereton33 It's just stopped leaking since yday 6pm. 10am ish now. I called a plumber but shall i wait or just get it all looked at. Thanks for reply
Okay so watched your video over the weekend after enough of a old leaky seals and bad overflow to the point it was splashing over, but wouldn't overflow.
However after I fixed it, I have noticed the last couple of days after running the taps for dishes, washing hands etc, a noise comes through the pipes, like a drill into a wall, it's not hammering I'd say, but for 10-20 seconds a sound can be heard.
It may continuously fill up before but never hear that sound, what should or can I do, may I have done something wrong? 😊
Change the ballcock or try reducing the flow but closing down the stopcock.
@@dereton33 okay, so I have replaced the 1/2" Part 1 High Pressure Brass Ball Valve with another brass one,
And noW I get a really loud, pro longed hum sound with no knocking down the pipes while it fills up, but didn't get that before fixing the leaky unit 😅
May I have done something wrong, even indirectly?
*for extra information this is my cold water tank I have replaced it in, I live in a old house where cold fire is how I have hot water in my radiators and taps and immersion for just taps*
Excellent - you explain things very well and have a great style.
Thank you for sharing your expertise!
No problem.
Thanks for this fella. Leaking float valve changed as well as installing a new Ballofix valve to isolate it next time....cheers for the tip.
No problem.
Great vid. Thanks for being a genuine bloke.
No worries
Good video, simple for women who have no man to do things. And I love the watch..,,😀
That`s great thanks for watching. Watch has long gone now, shame.
Hi mate your videos are very helpful. My header tank is not filling and I have no hot water but cold taps are all fine. Will replacing the ballcock do it? It's not going up and down as it should.
+chefsuprise . Yes renewing the valve will fix it.
Hi Al, great videos!
Quick question. I’m going to replace the ball valve in the tank in the loft as the water level cuts off above the overflow level. The thing I don’t understand is that there is no water coming out of the overflow outside the building! So my question is, do these overflows get blocked? As you know, the water shouldn’t get to the overflow level but as it does, my problem is I’m getting a little drip from the overflow fitting leaving the tank which over time has brought the bathroom ceiling down! 🤦🏻♂️ Any answer much appreciated. Cheers
They can get blocked. Check where it exits the house.
@@dereton33 Thanks for the reply, Al. I have checked and there is nothing coming out where it leaves the building which is why I thought it may be blocked. The diameter just seemed quite wide for a blockage, but whoever was up there tampering last left the lid off of the tank so god knows what’s gotten down there! Will just poke some clean rods down there and see what happens! Cheers
Hi, I am trying to remove an old domestic cold water storage tank valve. Very worried as it is leaking bad and covered in limescale also a galvanised rusty tank, I would really appreciate any advice. Thank you.
Renew the tank. Never thought any of those old galvanised tanks were still going. Most have all rusted through by now.
Thank you very much for this video saved a few Bob on a plumber
You're welcome!
Thank you for making this video as it made the job very easy & all for £4.60
+blackvrs No problem.
Thanks for your help bend the brass arm on plumbing tank and i think the problem is fixed
Great Mark.
Quick question. Should the pipe that’s hovering over the tank be submerged or not or is it a return? Great video thanks
No it should never be under the water.
I thought water would still come out. When the balls not on is it closed by default. As I need to change the isolation valve that's on that same pipe. As its a plastic one and the slot s mashed up so would i need to drain system to swap it. Would water gush out when I take out the plastic push fit valve off?
Can you use a torbeck or silencer non siphon valve on cold water tanks. Can you recommend best one.
Thanks.
There is lots of quiet fill valves you can use Jim. (Check my Amazon plumbing shop) I would not recommend a Torbeck though.
Thanks...
I'm comfused.
If I'm side on to tank and the valve is adjacent to me on the left side when i put the wrench on what direction loosens it .
Towards me or away from me.
Thanks
Towards you.
A Part 1 is very old and can be noisy for sure but its hardly horrible, it's a tried and tested design and they are very reliable. Certainly much more reliable than the more expensive plastic "tat" you find in todays cistern's.
good clear informative videos though
Whilst changing the ballcock, is there a product we can use to clean the tank? Thank you
Just plain old elbow grease.
I've two cold water tanks in the loft each 70 gallons and a cold water feed to the ball cock valve that has to be turned off via the house mains stop cock in the kitchen. I've now fitted a lever full bore 15mm isolation valve just outside of the tank to isolate the ball valve. When replacing a ball cock you must switch water off to isolate the ball valve water because it'sfull mains pressure.
Great video will be fitting it tonight so will let you know how it goes
Good luck with it Keith.
Thanks, I was trying to undo the old one and it was going around and around and... anyhow, this showed me the error of my ways!
That`s great.
Hi pal, do u have any tips or a video of how to clean the tank ?
No, sorry
Hi dere thank you for your simple down to earth steps to what's usually a scary confusing thing, we have a plastic ball valve the arm is plastic like a jointed arm, we are trying to figure out is it the same steps 🤔🙋♀️
Best to remove those completely and replace with a brass part 2 valve.
Thanks for the video. Followed the instructions, as my water bill had more than doubled overnight some time ago and I eventually found that water had been continually flowing into the tank. Had to turn the water off in the street, as I couldn't turn the tap to the tank (nor the other internal stopcock). Replaced the valve and ballcock with a new one. It seems screwed on ok and is in position, but when I turned the water back on, the tank isn't filling up as I use the water. Not a drop is coming through, even if I move the ballcock up and down. I'm not sure what is wrong, but I may have to call a plumber out after all if no water comes through and the tank empties without being refilled.
+dereton33 Thanks. I'm waiting to try and get hold of the water company now, as the outside stop valve is a total nightmare to turn and I have been trying to turn it since yesterday afternoon. Even my next door neighbour, who is a strong guy, was having trouble turning it. It feels crunchy and not smooth when it turns. I currently have no water coming into the house and am just using up what was in the tank.
+dereton33 I've just averted a mini disaster! Thames Water came, due to my having no water. The guy said, on trying to turn the external stop valve: “It’s broken; someone’s broken it. That’s chargeable”.
I think he took pity on me after asking who it was who turned it and looking at my face, as he then messed about with it for a few minutes and said: “I’ve fixed it. It would have cost you £400”.
After the water was turned back on, I then had a flooding in the loft, with water coming through two floors and into the living room on the ground floor. The water was flooding out of a pipe that leads into the tank - even though I went outside and turned off the supply once again. I put a container underneath, but this kept overflowing and I couldn't keep up with emptying the buckets. It's still coming through the ceiling now. Somehow, I must have loosened a nut on the pipe going into the tank when screwing on the new valve, but I couldn't see where the water was coming from, as it was running along the pipe. To cut a long story short, I phoned my usual plumber, who wasn't available, unsurprisingly. I then ran next door and my neighbour was able to trace the source of the leak and tighten the nut that I must have loosened when putting on the new valve. So, he seems to have saved me the cost of an emergency callout fee. I must have just saved over £500 in the space of a couple of hours!
Part of the problem was that all the nuts and bolts were ancient and incredibly corroded, silted up and hard to budge - just like the stop cocks.
Moral of the story: It's best to have some idea of what you're doing first - and to learn well from your mistakes. Also, be incredibly gentle with the stop valve outside, as it's extremely fragile (and expensive). It's helpful if you can get a second person to hold one of the spanners with extremely stiff and corroded nuts, so you can turn with both hands - and to hold the torch.
The guy from the water company said it's a good idea to turn all stopcocks on and off twice a year to prevent them from seizing up.
Yes that is good advice. Sorry you had so much trouble. Still we all learn from our mistakes.
Yes, it's been a good learning process. Another tip is a) to make sure you get the right size ball. I thought I measured mine correctly, but got the smaller one by mistake. b) Bend the metal arm before fitting. (I saw someone do it by bending around his bent knee). I've found it impossible to bend it once in place - and can't face taking it off again to bend, in case I get more problems. These two things have meant that the level is too high and water is now coming out of my overflow pipe. I've ordered a larger ball and hope that this brings the level down just enough.
If you use a pair of small stillsons or a wrench around the arm you can bend it in place.
Quick question Al, when you unscrewed the arm, it seemed as though you were going in the direction to tighten it up and when you put the new one on, it seemed as you were unscrewing it? Are they opposite threads? cheers
No it just looks that way it is a right hand thread.
Hi Dereton, most of these regular household ones usually give a range of a usable float ball as being 'a choice' between 4½, 5 and 6in.
My question is - in what way do these size differences of the actual ball - affect the operation of the mechanism?
Thanks in advance.
The bigger the ball the more pressure is exerted on the valve piston.
Thanks for this. Successfully replaced my ball valve and is working okay. I have noticed that the pipes running from downstairs to the tank are a lot noisier when the water is flowing into the tank. I cannot see any other reason for it other than it is a new fitting as I have done nothing else. Any ideas please. Cheers????
FredClobber Your pressure may be too high try turning the stopcock down and slowing the pressure to the valve. Other than that you could fit a ballafix valve on the inlet to the tank and just crack it open so it fills slower. I have a video on how to fit one of those. Al.
dereton33
That makes sense as there is no other reason for it to suddenly do it. I will give it a go. If not I will try the other suggestion. Thank you very much for all your help.
Try turning your main stopcock down so that your water flows slower, the stopcock is usually under the sink , so turn your stopcock right off, then open your kitchen tap , turn the stopcock gradually on until you have a flow that is not too fast.
dereton33 Sorry I should have replied 2 weeks ago. Did as you suggested and it worked a treat! Thanks again.
Dick King
Hi there. Did as Al suggested 2 weeks ago and it worked a treat. Cheers anyway!
Hi man wonder could you help the smaller tank in the Attic I think it's the hot water tank for the heating. It was constantly over flowing out of the over pipe outside. So i put a new ballcock on the tank yet after a few hours it stills over flow outside . No leaks from the new ballcock . How can it still fill up it's driving me nuts no matter what I do it still overflows. Any ideas why Thanks
It is a pinhole in the inner coil of the hot water tank. Only way of fixing it is to renew the tank.
Good helpful video, you cannot always fit the spout sfter replacing the float valve.
Is marine plywood suitable for a tank lid?
Yes that would be fine.
Hi there warm water coming out of the pipe on roof for few months now I hope changing the arm ball and valve solves my problem?
If not you have a inner coil cylinder problem.
dereton33 I went on the roof and no buckets up there or under the house.Only overflow pipe going outside the roof.Its a old electric Rheem Alfa low pressure hot water cylinder.Please help
Hi my ballcock and fitting are entirely under the water do I need to replace the complete fitting it overflows almost daily thank you .
It is easier to just replace the whole thing as in the video. They are very cheap.
@@dereton33 thank u mine is pouring out quicker than a tap how do I turn off the water to stop it going into the tank ...so I can remove it
I love your video's. Very informative for a novice like myself. I don't do DIY but I'm going to try this myself as it looks easy enough (famous last words!) LOL :D
Good luck.
Great video as always.
I brought a replacement but doesn’t seem to fit into the existing as in vid - just kept turning .. is there a reason for this ? Had to put the old one back on. Stupid question but as it’s gravity fed system are these High pressure valves correct ones ?
Sorry another one - I swear I watched a vid which you mentioned how to install the isolator valve for the header tank - or did I make that one up. Thanks in advance
I did make a video for fitting an isolation valve it is on my channel. High pressure valves are the correct ones for roof tanks. The threads are sometimes different, so do not fit, in which case you will have to change the complete valve.
Ahh I just seen the end of vid that's how you stopped the water lol. I'm guessing I would need to stop the water to change the valve. I'll watch your other vid!
Thanks for sharing this I have changed ours with your help :) The copper pipe that bent towards the top of tank I have knocked should that be above or below water level please ?
It should be above.
Regards,
Al.
Thats great :) Many thanks
As mentioned on another video firstly familiarise yourself with matters before venturing into the loft. Go through everything and in the process you won't leave anything behind spanners or whatever when you venture into the loft. , and if your going to keep the old float and reuse then clean it up first, remove the limescale on it, especially important for heavy limescale areas. Mike
Thanks Mike.
Dereton I have a very noisy hot water system any suggestions on problem
Johnathon Andrew If it when you have run the hot tap, then it is the roof tank ballcock. Just change it, as in the video. Al.
dereton33 I have and as you say it seems to have sorted it. Previous home owner had almost bent old one in half. Thanks for the video and the advice
No problem.
A big thank you for your kind help. I really appreciate your expert knowledge
You are very welcome
What is that pipe in the middle to do with @4:06 in between his hands? Our pipe in the middle won't stop pouring water at times and the overflow keeps going.
The expansion pipe. If that is running you have problems with your heating system.
@@dereton33 Thanks for your reply, We have warm air heating so we only have an immersion heater. Could it be something to do with that?
do you have to turn the water off at the mains ??
Yes
Can I ask a stupid question but did you turn off the water going to loft or how is it done ?
I turned the water off first.
Great advice on how to replace the valve, but you really need to replace the whole tank! Those black spots are biofilm. The gel coat on the inside of your GRP tank has started to fail, and each spot contains microbes, legionella or other, which could give you problems. If you clean and disinfect the tank then you're good for a short while, but the spots will come back, maybe in a few years, maybe in a few months.
Got rid of this old tank went for a combi.
What are the chances of that? I put a search in for changing cold water float valve, chose your vid, and then realised that you are the people with the Actifry XL video recipe's that I use. I think that makes you the epitome of diverse. By the way your plumbing video's are as good as your cookery ones. Thanks.
Thanks david.
Al, when I've looked online to buy the part it's says 'Part 1' or'Part 3' or 'Part 1 1/2'
How do I know which one I need for a normal household tank in my loft?
+Nelson Muntz Hi Nelson. It is either the
part one. Which can be noisy or the more expensive part two. They both fit a normal house.
Hi Al,
I'm looking to do this in my loft, as it looks exactly the same as yours! When it comes to turning the water off, all I have is the stopcock out by my water meter in the pavement outside. Will this be sufficient? Or would it be worth turning a cold tap on after turning off the supply, just to drain some of the water away from the supply to the loft tank?
Thanks in advance!
Oli Barton That stopcock will be fine. Opening the down stairs tap will remove any water left in the pipe, so it is a good idea. Al.
What is the purpose of having a water storage tank in the attic? I've never heard of this before.
It`s a long story a plumbing DIY book would be your best bet.
I've just replaced the (Part 1 ?) ball valve Like for like. I was a little confused because it said on the box "Suitable for gravity fed systems" but the water tank is fed from the mains,. Also the float arm is Straight and t non adjustable and now the water level is only about 1/2 inch from the overflow. I've tried bending it a little bit but I don't want to over do it
It is ok for mains as well it will have a h p seating in it. Bend the arm further they do not break.
Great video, just one thought, what size ballvavle fitting do i need ?, are they all the same
will it be 1/2 or 3/4inch
Hi martyn, it will be standard 1/2 inch. They are all the same.
dereton33 Thanks for the helpful video. I was wondering about the thread size too. Mine has a slow drip. There are some advertised as 1/2" or 3/4". Possibly best I check before going to plumber merchant ?
hi. I have a MEGAflo tank but started to make noise whenever I use the hot water? what do I need to do? change the ballcock valve (if it has one) or is to do with pressure. Please help
It is to do with pressure. Try turning your main stopcock down to a slower flow of water.
I bought a 1/2 inch part 2 bal valve to replace my old part 1. However on attempting to fit it the diameter of the the ball valve connecter was too small to fit the tank coupling. Does this mean i need a 3/4 inch ball valve. Have refitted the old Part 1 and still leaking.
+Tug Wilson . No change the tank coupling for a 15 mm one.
I wish I understand. Just a simple seaman here. My tank side coupling fits my old ball valve which is diameter 30mm. My part 2 is only 25 mm diameter.......Help
You could always fit a 22 mm to 15 mm flexi connector and jus cut back the copper feed
Hi, the ballcock was replaced in the tank , But now when the toilet is flushed the pipes rumble throughout the house. This only started since the ballcock was replaced. Any idea please?
A part 1 fitted instead of a part 2. If it is a part two model making the noise, you can get a silent fill valve for the roof tank. As a cheap fix you may try turning the flow rate down vis the main stopcock.
Hi there boss, listen, I’m wondering why is my roof tank filling up with water but never storage it.
No idea
Hi. I like to know if i can remove the water tank roof and connect the cold water to cobert tank is that possible? Why we need the big cold water tank in the roof?
No not possible.
Guessing turn the water off to the house first? or is that not needed
Err yes.
May I know, Which size adjustable wrench needed for the nut? Thank You
7 inch
Hi, I'm from Dublin, Ireland. Grinding sound coming from the cold water tank while filling it. Can I ask, Is that the problem with bad ballcock? Now connected part-1 ballcock. Can replace this with Part-2? Thank You...
Replace the valve with the part 2 and all will be well again.
Hi Dereton33, Can I ask, Is this OK to replace the ball cock from the outer side of the tank? I meant by using full of the new ball valve, becuase our tank has shades at the inner sides, so difficult to unscrew from the inner side. Thank You
Thanks for sharing this video - it's really useful. Is there any device that can be attached to the spout to reduce the noise it makes when the tank is refilling? Maybe a flexible tube that goes from the spout into the water. If so, is there a technical name for this?
+Paul Dowsett There used to be a plastic tube on them years ago to sort out the noise but now they are illegal, in case water gets sucked back down from the roof tank to a cold tap. EU strikes again.
Any suggestions on an easy way to undo a heavy lime scaled valve? Great video by the way!!
Tap the nut with a hammer and use bigger spannerrs
I just did the job and that was one of the techniques I used! Thanks fior the reply, really good of you
Do part 2 valves hammer less than part 1s, as they close? EDIT: A tennis ball might have done the trick , upsetting the resonance
Yes.