Water under the metal roof from wind blown or condensate will go down the felt under panels, get between the drip edge flashing and felt, get trapped and rot deck and fascia. That's why you are better to put felt OVER the drip edge flashing. In a perfect world, drip edge nailed to deck, bitumen flash tape over flashing/nails and deck...and felt over that. Then water running down deck even under the felt, will go over tape/flashing and out between flashing and felt and away from building materials. I know most folks just say, we've always done it this way and never had a problem....but these small details can make the difference between getting 10-20 years out of the metal roof, or as much as 50. Replacing deck and/or fascia areas due to water intrusion is major surgery, and usually avoidable.
SUPER helpful, thank you! I am homeowner, and the paucity of information from the manufacturers is terrible. Your alternative to squaring it up (measuring the distance from the edge and such) really helped me a lot.
Exposed fastener metal roofing is used on 95% of houses in the Philippines from low-end to high-end. This was really helpful especially in showing how you keep the sheets aligned straight at the bottom using chalkline and tick marks. As we are building our house the roofing team, a few months ago, had a hard time keeping things aligned as they did not have such a reliable method. I would have recommended your method to them.
@@miillersconstruction The potential problem I see with your method is you are relying the metal supplier to make perfectly square cuts. It their cut is skewed, you're screwed 😆 So, I'd bring along a framing square and check the stack before pre-drilling to verify squareness.
An awesome trick I learned when you are starting the panels... Instead of measuring and snapping a line, I just tack the first panel on the left side on top or bottom but before placing the second screw, I place another panel and do the same thing and put one screw as close to the seam and the screw from the first panel as I can because this allows you to adjust both panels together while keeping the seam nice and tight from top to bottom. Just a quick glance down the drip edge and up the rake and it always works out beautifully without having to step the panels at the bottom or having to "stretch" the metal to straighten it up as you run your panels out... Just be sure to screw the whole seam off on those first two panels before you try screwing the outside edges at all so that you don't end up with any unwanted bubbles or a seam that sticks out like a soar thumb...Because in case you didn't notice already, the metal doesn't like to "stretch" very easily.... Not without being pretty noticeable from the ground anyway... It just works much better to screw the panels off from the seam and working outward from there.... Great video though taking the time to explain all of those little important details that are crucial to doing it the right way. Attention to detail makes all the difference in the world if you ask me... It separates the skilled carpenters from the fly-by-nighters...
I have tried your method. It was actually our standard for years before we switched to the method we're using now. Not sure what gauge metal your using, we use 29ga and it stretches just fine, I've never seen it cause an issue so we continue to do it. The chalk line method is the only way to roll IN MY OPINION. If the other works for you, keep doing it. We found much more consistent results using the method shown in the video.
One of the videos I watched had the installer placing the Screws on the ribs. He said his reason for this was that the water will roll off of the ribs, onto the flat portions of the panels. Thus, if there are a lot of holes on the flat portion, it would increase the likelihood of leaks. His reasoning made plenty of sense to me.
His method is not approved by my manufacturer and I have personally witnessed failures when installed this way. The fasteners don't have any structure to rely on, a good portion of the fastener is just floating inside that rib. When the metal expands and contracts, I have seen the fasteners snap, back out, and even rub the washer dry. If you look at the design of the fastener you can even see that it's incorrect. Try installing that screw on top of the rib of the panels we use, a good portion of the rubber gasket won't make contact with the rib. Many folks unfortunately think like he does and failures are the result. If I had not been behind guys like him fixing these failures, I might not have known any better either.
Manufactures show installing the screws on the flats, one reason for that is the manufactures wind lift testing was done with the screws on the flats because that provides the best method of securing the panels to the roof deck. If you install the screws on the ridge then none of the wind lift data will be valid. Also as the post from millers construction stated is the screw is not as secure and it does not seal as well at the washer when it is installed on the rib.
In the past I used this type of drip-edge as well. It is pretty wide so that your panels don't need that 1" overhang but they can be flush with the drip edge.
RR Buildings uses a slightly alternative method. First step is to mark both top and bottom every 36 inches using the gable-end as a reference. After that he is first fastening the bottom of the panel on the 36" mark and flush with the edge, but that could of course also be the snap line. Next step is to shift the top of the panel so that it also lines up with the upper 36" mark. This way when the fascia-board is crooked it will get straightened. I really liked the idea of doubling the screws at the bottom.
Johnathan3982. Metabo has the best cordless nails Guns Hands down no question.. built the best not some bullshit plástico fell like dewalt akward and stupid looking. I have all metabo Guns now and there badass
@@matthewb3415 I agree. All mine are Metabo and 2 Bostitch pneumatic. 2 Metabo framing nailer's, 2 Metabo finish nailer's, and 2 Bostitch pneumatic finish nailer's. Circular saw is Metabo, Impact driver's are Metabo, just Quality tools at a reasonable price. I work for a General Contractor.
@@jonathan3982 yeah bro all my tools are mainly Dewalt but nails Guns I have 4 of each cordless nails Guns. I'm a contractor so each enclosed trailer I have 4 of them have atleast 1 set of each nails Guns just so there's 1 of each suite so no excuse but normally my guys have there own but if not there's 1 to use. I have each trailer loaded with everything needed to build houses from ground up. Of course it took over a decade to be able to have what I have but at the shop and garage I'm a took fanatic kinda a addict u can say with tools I just love to buy new tools idk why I just cant help myself if I see something cool it's going in the cart. But honestly I'm a big kobalt fan as well. I have the comercial line kobalt at my house just to use around the house or my other properties so I don't have to través and get things out of trailer. But if I was to restart no joke id go all kobalt besides of course the nails guns... I used to have milwaukee which are badass as well but the batteries are way over priced.
So i understand putting more holes raises the chance of a leak but and I’m not sure if ill get this answered but I’d really like to know. Will there be any issues with warranty if you dont follow manufactures screw recommendations.
I would suspect you would get flagged. Alot of people are really worried about all the exposed fasteners. The roof were working on right now was peppered with them and it was installed in 2006. The washers on the screws still look perfectly fine. Don't be worried about the amount of fasteners. The one thing I will tell you though, it's ok to space them greater than 24"on long sheets. We do it all the time regardless of warranty. It's just not necessary to have that many in it.
Yep - just voided the warranty. Whether a contractor likes to do it a certain way or not, if you don't follow their guidelines and you have a problem, they won't honour it.
other videos show the underlayment under the drip edge, but then ziptape over the drip edge. I'm wondering about the closure neoprene that is supposed to keep critters out of the holes created by the ridges at the bottom.
Put the small ribs of the full sheets towards the valley then slide the big rib of the next sheet under. This makes it so you don’t see the lap of each sheet
Hey, high wind area here. What is to prevent the wind from getting under the panels and tearing off the drip edge thus taking the whole roof with it? Do you face nail the drip edge to the eve 2x6?
@@snurb48 not only is the drip edge nailed on, our first row of panel fasteners are typically going right through the drip. The only way that roof is coming off is if the decking its attached to goes with it!
I like the chalk line, but why not use it for the drip edge, instead of eye-balling it? The reason for 1.5" long screws is because purlins should be used. There's not as much holding power going into plywood vs a 1x4 or 2x4 purlin. For the added cost vs benefits it's a no brainer.
I'm guessing by how wrinkled the felt is they probably left a few nails and debris. They make us use ice shield where I live and run it at least two feet past the wall but it's really not necessary if the attic has enough insulation. That looks like standing seam eave trim for folding the edge over with no exposed fasters. A three inch or bigger face on the eave will have to be clipped in or face screwed or it might blow off in high wind. You want a big enough screw for the panels to penetrate through the metal and decking so the cone-shaped portion of screw is sticking through the bottom of decking. I use the 3-4-5 method to make a perfectly square line perpendicular to the eave with no sawtoothing. The screws are usually the first thing to leak so knowing how to drive a screw is probably the most important thing: push down hard when driving to sandwich the panel to the decking, if you suck up the metal then reverse until the threads push the metal back down and re tighten the screw, the washers want to be firm but not crushed, try to drive every screw perpendicular to the plane.
Put the small rib of the full sheets towards the valley. Put the big rib of the next sheet under the small rib. The makes it so the laps can’t be seen from the ground
I wish cameras showed things straight, watching the roof get screwed down it looked like everything is crooked. I used that same metal roofing this past summer, when you mention that plastic rap of the drip-edge and rake pieces, I almost had a melt down trying to get that stuff off!!!!!!! I placed screws 28"-ish on my 16' panels, roof is addition off my house, used transition panels to slide up under existing asphalt shingles. Addition is only 16'x30' and only goes down 1" in 14", so I used that sticky weather shield underlayment, it has some sort of thin blue fabric on top, so far the it's not leaking but winter isn't here yet. Also I left about 2" of my drip-edge exposed and use the the sticky foam pieces under the edge of roof panels, just so wind wont get up under there making wind noise, and or bats.........
@@JasonStewartsStreak nope. My manufacturer approves of the panels being installed directly over an approved decking substrate. It's actually our preferred installation method.
The reason for the longer screws not everybody is starting with a clean slate sometimes people put this roofing down on top of two layers of shingles....
Yes. I've done it. That's not what we're talking about in this circumstance though. We're installing over a single layer of decking. Many roofers will go ahead and use the longer screws unnecessarily.
I've seen some roofers put down butyl tape on the overlap joint to better seal that joint. How come 'They' don't make a drip edge for the gable end of the roof, it's going to get hammered with rain and wind as well..
How can you lift a panel like that? I’ve got 14’ x3’ lengths and it weighs more than 4’X12’ sheet of drywall! Maybe it’s heavier gauge? Takes forever to predrill thru 1 panel and a screw won’t go through at all without predrilling.
@@miillersconstruction Thanks, looking to replace a pump house roof, wondering why some install furring strips and some don't. Saw one where they ran diagonally up the roof and another where they went vehicle up the take then horizontal across them and then put metal on.
@@madman432000 some guys do it because it's code in their jurisdiction. We will do it occasionally if we're going over a shingle roof. Our metal manufacturer not only warranties the steel fastened directly to the deck, but they also give us step-by-step instructions on how to do so. Here's my thoughts on furring strips - The only time I've ever seen exposed Fastener metal roofing blown off of a house, was when it was attached to strips. The metal is ALWAYS still attached to the furring strips so what failed? The connection between the furring strips and the decking. I also don't like the thought of allowing additional airflow underneath the steel panels. If an abundance of air can move under the panels, during a high wind storm or tornado, You've got a lot more potential for that roof to be ripped off. I want my roofs tight to the deck. There is no advantage of installing furring strips in MOST circumstances. Sometimes you have to, there are various situations where it is required. We avoided if we can. We also don't have roofing failures ever when we installed directly to the deck.
Hi, Your electric roof cutter works like magic. Where can I buy one? Does Home Depot or Lowes carry it? I’m about to install about 7000 sq ft of metal roof for my ducks. Your video is quite informative. Thank you for sharing your professional skills.
@@bigal25938 so that strong winds can get underneath and potentially lift the panels off the roof? I'm not a fan. The manufacturer allows us to install the metal tight to an appropriately prepared deck. That's what we prefer.
@@bigal25938 disagree. Install it however you like. I've never seen a metal roof blow off when installed directly to the deck. I've seen plenty blow off when installed over purlins and it's the same every time, the purlins are still attached to the steel. That's the failure point. The purlin connection to the decking. I will continue to install it as our manufacturer approves. I haven't had any issues doing it this way, so I'm not changing. Really don't see the benefit of installing it differently.
Panel you dont run it past drip edge with that type of edge. Waters gonna shoot over gutter better use a k6 commercial gutter if not... all the foundation troubles will happen have a nice leak into basement do to water over run.... this is how you install when you throw away the install directions yes i know who uses those right... well if you want the warranty do it right... fast installs are fast but all the corners are cut... this is an example...
I like venting my metal roofs, it’s not expensive and easy and metal will last lifetime and make hvac bills cheaper. It’ll make attic 15-20 degrees cooler. I’ll make air gap between metal and underpayment
@miillersconstruction, The air gap and firring strips might not be needed for the manufacturer's warranty but it makes the installation look much better when you can eliminate any sags or humps and straighten out the imperfections when you fasten the furring strips down... It also allows you to tighten up any of the roof decking that has started to loosen up like it always does near the gutters and gable ends. But that air pocket that gets created really does add R-value between the warm house and the cold metal (& vice-versa).. Just like you're supposed to install baffles if you insulate the attic ceiling to vent the roof and prevent the shingles from getting burnt and falling apart in 10yrs. Plus the added R-value significantly reduces your heating and cooling expenses. The air pocket acts as the dampener between the two, reducing condensation and extending the life of your material... Especially the rubber gaskets which are usually the first thing that fails on a metal roof.
@TargetedPatton yes, and help prevent ice damming, i have bad damming and adding 1 inch gap for extra ventilation and r value, thinking about radiant barrier too.
They do. But it is so much easier to predrill, and it also prevents us from having to chalk a line or other methods to keep the rows of fasteners straight.
My roofer took off the old shingles and felt , then put a new moisture barrier down and then furring strips down and screwed to those , because he said in the past 10 years installing metal straight to the one layer of shingles was over time causing the screws to back out a little because the roof has to have a small amount of play to slightly move as the metal heats up and cools . He also said he had seen video's of standing seam roofs being totally torn off in high winds because the entire panels are hooked to each other as where tuff ribbed panels with exposed fasteners were not . Any thoughts anyone ?
I've got a lot of thoughts on that. Great comment. So I personally have not seen any indication that the panels would have an issue being fastened directly to the deck. Even the metal manufacturers will warranty and recommend that installation technique. I love the thought of air being able to move under the panels to dissipate heat if you're using furring strips like you mentioned. However I'm not a fan of air/wind movement under the panels in a storm like condition. If wind can pass underneath it, the panels can be ripped off. What he's saying about the standing seam panels makes sense, but it sounds like he's trying to sell you on exposed fastener. I'm also a huge fan of exposed fastener, but anyone who discredits the durability of standing seam either is ignorant or has an agenda. It sounds like the latter. Installed properly a standing seam will outlast ANY roof in a storm.
Water under the metal roof from wind blown or condensate will go down the felt under panels, get between the drip edge flashing and felt, get trapped and rot deck and fascia. That's why you are better to put felt OVER the drip edge flashing. In a perfect world, drip edge nailed to deck, bitumen flash tape over flashing/nails and deck...and felt over that. Then water running down deck even under the felt, will go over tape/flashing and out between flashing and felt and away from building materials. I know most folks just say, we've always done it this way and never had a problem....but these small details can make the difference between getting 10-20 years out of the metal roof, or as much as 50. Replacing deck and/or fascia areas due to water intrusion is major surgery, and usually avoidable.
Sound logic.
ruclips.net/video/kqq8YvTxkL0/видео.html A lot of contractors would disagree with you....everyone has a opinion
RARE combination of excellent camera work, awesome editorial content, and great audio! Thanks guys! I appreciate you sharing your wisdom.
Thanks man!
SUPER helpful, thank you! I am homeowner, and the paucity of information from the manufacturers is terrible. Your alternative to squaring it up (measuring the distance from the edge and such) really helped me a lot.
@@LolaHouston so glad it helped! Hope your project goes well!
Exposed fastener metal roofing is used on 95% of houses in the Philippines from low-end to high-end. This was really helpful especially in showing how you keep the sheets aligned straight at the bottom using chalkline and tick marks. As we are building our house the roofing team, a few months ago, had a hard time keeping things aligned as they did not have such a reliable method. I would have recommended your method to them.
We struggled for years before we implemented that method. It keeps things very straight.
@@miillersconstruction The potential problem I see with your method is you are relying the metal supplier to make perfectly square cuts. It their cut is skewed, you're screwed 😆 So, I'd bring along a framing square and check the stack before pre-drilling to verify squareness.
An awesome trick I learned when you are starting the panels... Instead of measuring and snapping a line, I just tack the first panel on the left side on top or bottom but before placing the second screw, I place another panel and do the same thing and put one screw as close to the seam and the screw from the first panel as I can because this allows you to adjust both panels together while keeping the seam nice and tight from top to bottom. Just a quick glance down the drip edge and up the rake and it always works out beautifully without having to step the panels at the bottom or having to "stretch" the metal to straighten it up as you run your panels out... Just be sure to screw the whole seam off on those first two panels before you try screwing the outside edges at all so that you don't end up with any unwanted bubbles or a seam that sticks out like a soar thumb...Because in case you didn't notice already, the metal doesn't like to "stretch" very easily.... Not without being pretty noticeable from the ground anyway... It just works much better to screw the panels off from the seam and working outward from there.... Great video though taking the time to explain all of those little important details that are crucial to doing it the right way. Attention to detail makes all the difference in the world if you ask me... It separates the skilled carpenters from the fly-by-nighters...
I have tried your method. It was actually our standard for years before we switched to the method we're using now. Not sure what gauge metal your using, we use 29ga and it stretches just fine, I've never seen it cause an issue so we continue to do it. The chalk line method is the only way to roll IN MY OPINION. If the other works for you, keep doing it. We found much more consistent results using the method shown in the video.
Man I wish I would have seen your video before I put my metal roof on - very well explained and done. Thanks for the video
This is the best explanation for installing a metal roof that I’ve ever seen. Now I can get started on my roof thank you.
Really glad it helped! I try to break things down and show detailed work. Thanks for checking out the video.
Thanks for the helpful tips, wish me luck on my first time trying to do this.
@@christaylor2332 you can do it! Take your time and be patient.
Love your chalk line tick mark method of setting the panels.
It works very well
One of the videos I watched had the installer placing the Screws on the ribs. He said his reason for this was that the water will roll off of the ribs, onto the flat portions of the panels. Thus, if there are a lot of holes on the flat portion, it would increase the likelihood of leaks. His reasoning made plenty of sense to me.
His method is not approved by my manufacturer and I have personally witnessed failures when installed this way. The fasteners don't have any structure to rely on, a good portion of the fastener is just floating inside that rib. When the metal expands and contracts, I have seen the fasteners snap, back out, and even rub the washer dry. If you look at the design of the fastener you can even see that it's incorrect. Try installing that screw on top of the rib of the panels we use, a good portion of the rubber gasket won't make contact with the rib. Many folks unfortunately think like he does and failures are the result. If I had not been behind guys like him fixing these failures, I might not have known any better either.
Manufactures show installing the screws on the flats, one reason for that is the manufactures wind lift testing was done with the screws on the flats because that provides the best method of securing the panels to the roof deck. If you install the screws on the ridge then none of the wind lift data will be valid. Also as the post from millers construction stated is the screw is not as secure and it does not seal as well at the washer when it is installed on the rib.
In the past I used this type of drip-edge as well. It is pretty wide so that your panels don't need that 1" overhang but they can be flush with the drip edge.
Appreciate the video great info we’re About to do our first metal roof and you put it simple thanks
@@ARTTLife glad it helped! Thanks for tuning in.
I bought some metal roofing for a small 12 x 12 shop and my drip edge was just too small. I like that stuff you got a LOT better.
Yeah most metal roofing manufacturers will sell you whatever size trims you want. Its really nice.
RR Buildings uses a slightly alternative method. First step is to mark both top and bottom every 36 inches using the gable-end as a reference. After that he is first fastening the bottom of the panel on the 36" mark and flush with the edge, but that could of course also be the snap line. Next step is to shift the top of the panel so that it also lines up with the upper 36" mark. This way when the fascia-board is crooked it will get straightened. I really liked the idea of doubling the screws at the bottom.
Makita rocks! So does Metabo Excellent tools. Nice video guy's 👍
Thank you!
Johnathan3982. Metabo has the best cordless nails Guns Hands down no question.. built the best not some bullshit plástico fell like dewalt akward and stupid looking. I have all metabo Guns now and there badass
@@matthewb3415 I agree. All mine are Metabo and 2 Bostitch pneumatic. 2 Metabo framing nailer's, 2 Metabo finish nailer's, and 2 Bostitch pneumatic finish nailer's. Circular saw is Metabo, Impact driver's are Metabo, just Quality tools at a reasonable price. I work for a General Contractor.
@@jonathan3982 yeah bro all my tools are mainly Dewalt but nails Guns I have 4 of each cordless nails Guns. I'm a contractor so each enclosed trailer I have 4 of them have atleast 1 set of each nails Guns just so there's 1 of each suite so no excuse but normally my guys have there own but if not there's 1 to use. I have each trailer loaded with everything needed to build houses from ground up. Of course it took over a decade to be able to have what I have but at the shop and garage I'm a took fanatic kinda a addict u can say with tools I just love to buy new tools idk why I just cant help myself if I see something cool it's going in the cart. But honestly I'm a big kobalt fan as well. I have the comercial line kobalt at my house just to use around the house or my other properties so I don't have to través and get things out of trailer. But if I was to restart no joke id go all kobalt besides of course the nails guns... I used to have milwaukee which are badass as well but the batteries are way over priced.
Ha Ha measuring your lunch sandwich . Always going through drill bits . Thanks for sharing the project with us .
I had to spice it up somehow 🤣
Where I live it's code to go up 3" from eave drip 16" OC from that,no more than 24" OC .
So i understand putting more holes raises the chance of a leak but and I’m not sure if ill get this answered but I’d really like to know. Will there be any issues with warranty if you dont follow manufactures screw recommendations.
I would suspect you would get flagged. Alot of people are really worried about all the exposed fasteners. The roof were working on right now was peppered with them and it was installed in 2006. The washers on the screws still look perfectly fine. Don't be worried about the amount of fasteners. The one thing I will tell you though, it's ok to space them greater than 24"on long sheets. We do it all the time regardless of warranty. It's just not necessary to have that many in it.
Yep - just voided the warranty. Whether a contractor likes to do it a certain way or not, if you don't follow their guidelines and you have a problem, they won't honour it.
Interesting that the deck underlayment is not over the drip edge.
other videos show the underlayment under the drip edge, but then ziptape over the drip edge. I'm wondering about the closure neoprene that is supposed to keep critters out of the holes created by the ridges at the bottom.
Put the small ribs of the full sheets towards the valley then slide the big rib of the next sheet under. This makes it so you don’t see the lap of each sheet
Hey, high wind area here. What is to prevent the wind from getting under the panels and tearing off the drip edge thus taking the whole roof with it? Do you face nail the drip edge to the eve 2x6?
@@snurb48 not only is the drip edge nailed on, our first row of panel fasteners are typically going right through the drip. The only way that roof is coming off is if the decking its attached to goes with it!
I like the chalk line, but why not use it for the drip edge, instead of eye-balling it?
The reason for 1.5" long screws is because purlins should be used. There's not as much holding power going into plywood vs a 1x4 or 2x4 purlin. For the added cost vs benefits it's a no brainer.
That’s exactly what I was about to say. There’s a few other things that he could’ve done better too but overall not bad
I like that drip edge a lot.
Is it ever recommended, or even possible to use butyl tape where the panels overlap in order to prevent water intrusion.
Yes they sell it in a roll and it works very well. But we only use it on lower slopes. Anything under 3/12 we use the butyl.
I'm guessing by how wrinkled the felt is they probably left a few nails and debris. They make us use ice shield where I live and run it at least two feet past the wall but it's really not necessary if the attic has enough insulation. That looks like standing seam eave trim for folding the edge over with no exposed fasters. A three inch or bigger face on the eave will have to be clipped in or face screwed or it might blow off in high wind. You want a big enough screw for the panels to penetrate through the metal and decking so the cone-shaped portion of screw is sticking through the bottom of decking. I use the 3-4-5 method to make a perfectly square line perpendicular to the eave with no sawtoothing. The screws are usually the first thing to leak so knowing how to drive a screw is probably the most important thing: push down hard when driving to sandwich the panel to the decking, if you suck up the metal then reverse until the threads push the metal back down and re tighten the screw, the washers want to be firm but not crushed, try to drive every screw perpendicular to the plane.
Put the small rib of the full sheets towards the valley. Put the big rib of the next sheet under the small rib. The makes it so the laps can’t be seen from the ground
I wish cameras showed things straight, watching the roof get screwed down it looked like everything is crooked.
I used that same metal roofing this past summer, when you mention that plastic rap of the drip-edge and rake pieces, I almost had a melt down trying to get that stuff off!!!!!!!
I placed screws 28"-ish on my 16' panels, roof is addition off my house, used transition panels to slide up under existing asphalt shingles. Addition is only 16'x30' and only goes down 1" in 14", so I used that sticky weather shield underlayment, it has some sort of thin blue fabric on top, so far the it's not leaking but winter isn't here yet.
Also I left about 2" of my drip-edge exposed and use the the sticky foam pieces under the edge of roof panels, just so wind wont get up under there making wind noise, and or bats.........
Nice job , ruber gloves will be ok just to protect your hands
Don't need them. You probably do though.
Do you have to use firing strips on a new truss roof with 5/8" OSB decking?
@@JasonStewartsStreak nope. My manufacturer approves of the panels being installed directly over an approved decking substrate. It's actually our preferred installation method.
That’s right. Gotta have that 1¨sandwhich. Haha
The reason for the longer screws not everybody is starting with a clean slate sometimes people put this roofing down on top of two layers of shingles....
Yes. I've done it. That's not what we're talking about in this circumstance though. We're installing over a single layer of decking. Many roofers will go ahead and use the longer screws unnecessarily.
Why small rib over lap on big rib? Thanks!
That's the way the our metal manufacturer designs it. The metal seam would be incredibly visible if it were put on incorrectly.
Sir, I have question?
how far your put the screws on the panels from the first screws to up ?
Really depends on the application. Manufacturers instructions will most likely tell you 24". We have done 36" without any issues on longer panels.
Thank you sir I appreciate that ..
You can install in the ribs sucks the sheet together way better and it’s never water running around the screw
Using a drill with a clutch is the way to drive those screws and never over drive them.
Yeah I just used the DeWalt versaclutch or the Makita version, you should check into those sometime....
I've seen some roofers put down butyl tape on the overlap joint to better seal that joint.
How come 'They' don't make a drip edge for the gable end of the roof, it's going to get hammered with rain and wind as well..
We use rake trims on the gable end. The butyl tape is required below a 3/12 pitch.
How can you lift a panel like that? I’ve got 14’ x3’ lengths and it weighs more than 4’X12’ sheet of drywall! Maybe it’s heavier gauge? Takes forever to predrill thru 1 panel and a screw won’t go through at all without predrilling.
Yours absolutely has to be much heavier gauge steel. Ours is 29 gauge.
What gage do you install on the roofs??? When do you rescrew the metal roofs???
I prefer 29 gauge.
Is this a galvalume product?
This is painted steel.
No foam on the drip edge ?
We have never had a problem without it. In fact never once installed it that i can recall.
Do you mind me asking how much that exact roof was? Great work!
Know people do it but I'm sorry I could have close half those sheets down while your pre drilling for self tapping screws 😮
Those almost 17 ft panels what's the price per ?
Before the pandemic, under $2 a linear foot. Last I checked it's around $3.40 now.
No furring strips?
Only when absolutely necessary. Our manufacturer doesn't require them.
@@miillersconstruction Thanks, looking to replace a pump house roof, wondering why some install furring strips and some don't. Saw one where they ran diagonally up the roof and another where they went vehicle up the take then horizontal across them and then put metal on.
@@madman432000 some guys do it because it's code in their jurisdiction. We will do it occasionally if we're going over a shingle roof. Our metal manufacturer not only warranties the steel fastened directly to the deck, but they also give us step-by-step instructions on how to do so. Here's my thoughts on furring strips - The only time I've ever seen exposed Fastener metal roofing blown off of a house, was when it was attached to strips. The metal is ALWAYS still attached to the furring strips so what failed? The connection between the furring strips and the decking. I also don't like the thought of allowing additional airflow underneath the steel panels. If an abundance of air can move under the panels, during a high wind storm or tornado, You've got a lot more potential for that roof to be ripped off. I want my roofs tight to the deck. There is no advantage of installing furring strips in MOST circumstances. Sometimes you have to, there are various situations where it is required. We avoided if we can. We also don't have roofing failures ever when we installed directly to the deck.
Hi,
Your electric roof cutter works like magic. Where can I buy one? Does Home Depot or Lowes carry it? I’m about to install about 7000 sq ft of metal roof for my ducks. Your video is quite informative. Thank you for sharing your professional skills.
Search for "metal nibbler"
@@miillersconstruction
Thank you sir.
Gloves?
No purlins?
Not required
@@miillersconstruction but wouldn’t purlins be better?
@@bigal25938 so that strong winds can get underneath and potentially lift the panels off the roof? I'm not a fan. The manufacturer allows us to install the metal tight to an appropriately prepared deck. That's what we prefer.
@@miillersconstruction strong winds can not get under with properly installed purlins. It is just faster to install without purlins.
@@bigal25938 disagree. Install it however you like. I've never seen a metal roof blow off when installed directly to the deck. I've seen plenty blow off when installed over purlins and it's the same every time, the purlins are still attached to the steel. That's the failure point. The purlin connection to the decking. I will continue to install it as our manufacturer approves. I haven't had any issues doing it this way, so I'm not changing. Really don't see the benefit of installing it differently.
Drip goes first then ice and water shield
Some roofs don't extend as yours that much over drip edge
@@anthonyzarcone8696 yeah I don't like those roofs.
Where's the Versa Shield fire protection.
Panel you dont run it past drip edge with that type of edge. Waters gonna shoot over gutter better use a k6 commercial gutter if not... all the foundation troubles will happen have a nice leak into basement do to water over run.... this is how you install when you throw away the install directions yes i know who uses those right... well if you want the warranty do it right... fast installs are fast but all the corners are cut... this is an example...
I like venting my metal roofs, it’s not expensive and easy and metal will last lifetime and make hvac bills cheaper. It’ll make attic 15-20 degrees cooler. I’ll make air gap between metal and underpayment
No need for air gap between metal and underlayment. Manufacturer approved in the instructions.
@miillersconstruction, The air gap and firring strips might not be needed for the manufacturer's warranty but it makes the installation look much better when you can eliminate any sags or humps and straighten out the imperfections when you fasten the furring strips down... It also allows you to tighten up any of the roof decking that has started to loosen up like it always does near the gutters and gable ends. But that air pocket that gets created really does add R-value between the warm house and the cold metal (& vice-versa).. Just like you're supposed to install baffles if you insulate the attic ceiling to vent the roof and prevent the shingles from getting burnt and falling apart in 10yrs. Plus the added R-value significantly reduces your heating and cooling expenses. The air pocket acts as the dampener between the two, reducing condensation and extending the life of your material... Especially the rubber gaskets which are usually the first thing that fails on a metal roof.
@TargetedPatton yes, and help prevent ice damming, i have bad damming and adding 1 inch gap for extra ventilation and r value, thinking about radiant barrier too.
Standing seam drip edge
Thats work but its ugly on that kind of roof panel!!!!!
Dont the screws cut their own holes when screwing down the panels
They do. But it is so much easier to predrill, and it also prevents us from having to chalk a line or other methods to keep the rows of fasteners straight.
My roofer took off the old shingles and felt , then put a new moisture barrier down and then furring strips down and screwed to those , because he said in the past 10 years installing metal straight to the one layer of shingles was over time causing the screws to back out a little because the roof has to have a small amount of play to slightly move as the metal heats up and cools . He also said he had seen video's of standing seam roofs being totally torn off in high winds because the entire panels are hooked to each other as where tuff ribbed panels with exposed fasteners were not . Any thoughts anyone ?
I've got a lot of thoughts on that. Great comment. So I personally have not seen any indication that the panels would have an issue being fastened directly to the deck. Even the metal manufacturers will warranty and recommend that installation technique. I love the thought of air being able to move under the panels to dissipate heat if you're using furring strips like you mentioned. However I'm not a fan of air/wind movement under the panels in a storm like condition. If wind can pass underneath it, the panels can be ripped off. What he's saying about the standing seam panels makes sense, but it sounds like he's trying to sell you on exposed fastener. I'm also a huge fan of exposed fastener, but anyone who discredits the durability of standing seam either is ignorant or has an agenda. It sounds like the latter. Installed properly a standing seam will outlast ANY roof in a storm.
The grit from shingles can also scratch the underside of the metal panels as well which can start corrosion.
No putty tape on the seems 🤔
Not required and unnecessary for 4/12 pitch
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I domt need to watch you make lunch i wanna see how to build the roof stop wasting my time
Most people are able to fast forward. Maybe you need a new phone or computer. ...or maybe you need to chill and make your own videos, Brandon.