I noticed the original ballast was a 175w type M152 pulse start ballast and you replaced it with a 175w type M57 ballast. Was the bulb a probe start or pulse start? I've found ANSI matched pulse start bulbs and ballast last longer than ANSI match probe start.
I don't remember if it was a probe or pulse. Whichever type doesn't need an ignitor, it was that type. I got the bulb that went with the new ballast from batteries plus bulbs. Thanks for watching Frank & help support the channel by subscribing 🛠️👍
Thanks for posting this video. I have a RAB 175 watt Metal Halide Floodlight and the bulb would not light, only flicker. I tried a new bulb first and it glows green but fails to light. I will look into a replacement Ballast. Are these Ballast pretty much the same? I see the prices vary significantly online.
Just pulled my Rab light apart. The Ballast does not appear burned and looks good. The same could not be said about the start-up Capacitor, it is bulged out and leaked some kind of gray "bondo-like" hardness out it's side. I might try replacing that Cap first.
You will need to get the correct ballast for your metal halide light fixture. Whether it's a pulse start or probe start metal halide lamp. Pulse start lamps use an igniter & probe start lamps do not. Of course you would need to match up the wattage as well. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching Jeffreycaban5107 & Subscribe to the channel 👍
@@jeffreycaban5107 You might have gotten lucky then if it's just the capacitor. You may have to change the bulb as well cuz once a ballast or capacitor goes bad it usually takes out the bulb. Thanks for watching 👍
Yep the common wire is the neutral wire (white wire). In the wiring diagram for the ballast they call it a common wire as well. But yes it's just the neutral wire. Thanks for watching Ianmartinez6274 & subscribe to the channel 👍
The ballast I bought was around $50 & of course no labor since I did it myself. But if you were paying an electrician to do this job you would be between $200-$250 for ballast & labor. Thanks for watching Keith & subscribe to the channel bro 👍
Your new ballast should of came with some instructions on wiring it up for different applications depending on what setup you have. From my video you can see on the ballast the couple wires I didn't use which are for different voltage. If you have a 240 volt power supply you would use whatever wire is labeled for 240 volts unlike mine which is a 120 volts setup & the orange wire is for 120 volts. Good luck on your project. Thanks for watching Justin & Subscribe to the channel 🔧👍
@@ApartmentMaintenance ur welcome man I got it figured out now thanks man for the help and the video! Hope u have a good year and wish you alot of luck with your electrian job
That was a thought, & I will probably do that in the future but wanted to keep the lights uniform. Once I get a cost of LED bulbs for how many lights I have at each section of the property I will do each section at once to keep everything the same. There's nothing worse than seeing a property at night with different types of bulbs in the fixtures. Thanks for watching Bruce & Subscribe to the channel 👍
Nice! I usually see these decorative fixtures in High Pressure Sodium never saw one in Metal Halide before. Also good job keeping it HID and not converting it some LED CRAP. I don't mind LED for some stuff but I don't like the fact that they are basically the only option for new lighting now . Also I dislike the fact that they fail before they are supposed to and the unneeded waste of scrapping the good stuff and then doing it again when that LED JUNK fails before it is supposed to! Nice job there!
Appreciate that! The LED replacement for this fixture is around 8,000 lumens, the metal halide HID bulb is 13,600 lumens. Big difference at night! Thanks for watching Peter & Subscribe to the channel 👍
@@ApartmentMaintenance I got some of the Metal Halide 100W/M90 fixtures when the apartment complex I live in was "upgraded" to LEDS all of them have failed and some more then once! what JUNK they are the company that made the LED retrofits they used are no longer in business anymore (what a surprise, NOT LoL!) Anyway I got some of the Philips Elite 4K ceramic Metal Halide lamps they are about 9,000 mean lumens and feature excellent CRI and lumen maintenance. It is a shame they never really took off as the LED replacements came around the same time and they gimped the Metal Halide stuff to make the LEDS look better then they are. I do use LEDS for some stuff mostly stuff that does not need the higher light levels as security and/or parking lots need.
@@ApartmentMaintenance I use them for lamps and stuff but I stay far away from the integrated ones (they usually "praise" as saying "No Bulbs to replace") They also did the porch lights as well but with the integrated JUNK well it had a replacement parts sheet included but they were NLA (No Longer Available) after 6 months As they fail they just slap a new one in which leads to different styles the whole purpose of this project was to have all of the same style as the apartments were done in stages so not all matched so this happened again! I only use fixtures that have a standard medium Edison screw (E-26) if the lamp fails you simply screw another one in instead of replacing the whole fixture.
We had those same style lamp posts on our property and we converted all to LED and it’s been 3+yrs and haven’t had to deal with anymore ballast replacements. Cost of the ballast alone is expensive.
Yeah they can be expensive. I get these ballasts for a good price. $35 for the 8 foot light posts (50W) & $45 for the 12 foot light posts (175W). The HIDS are so much brighter than the LEDs as I've looked into changing them over before. Either way if I have to some day I will. I use the LEDs inside all my apartments & they are great. Thanks for watching Vic & Subscribe to the channel 👍
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I didnt know these types of lamps had a ballast in them. Good to know for the future. Thank you Rich
Yep no problem Sean! Hope your staying hydrated out there, it's been a rough start to the AC season. Thanks for watching as always! 👍
I noticed the original ballast was a 175w type M152 pulse start ballast and you replaced it with a 175w type M57 ballast.
Was the bulb a probe start or pulse start?
I've found ANSI matched pulse start bulbs and ballast last longer than ANSI match probe start.
I don't remember if it was a probe or pulse. Whichever type doesn't need an ignitor, it was that type. I got the bulb that went with the new ballast from batteries plus bulbs. Thanks for watching Frank & help support the channel by subscribing 🛠️👍
Thanks for posting this video. I have a RAB 175 watt Metal Halide Floodlight and the bulb would not light, only flicker. I tried a new bulb first and it glows green but fails to light. I will look into a replacement Ballast. Are these Ballast pretty much the same? I see the prices vary significantly online.
Just pulled my Rab light apart. The Ballast does not appear burned and looks good. The same could not be said about the start-up Capacitor, it is bulged out and leaked some kind of gray "bondo-like" hardness out it's side. I might try replacing that Cap first.
You will need to get the correct ballast for your metal halide light fixture. Whether it's a pulse start or probe start metal halide lamp. Pulse start lamps use an igniter & probe start lamps do not. Of course you would need to match up the wattage as well. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching Jeffreycaban5107 & Subscribe to the channel 👍
@@jeffreycaban5107 You might have gotten lucky then if it's just the capacitor. You may have to change the bulb as well cuz once a ballast or capacitor goes bad it usually takes out the bulb. Thanks for watching 👍
When you say common wire , are you referring to the neutral wire ?
Yep the common wire is the neutral wire (white wire). In the wiring diagram for the ballast they call it a common wire as well. But yes it's just the neutral wire. Thanks for watching Ianmartinez6274 & subscribe to the channel 👍
Great job!
Thanks for watching Speed Run Noob & Subscribe to the channel 👍
This rubber gloves protect u against the power ?
No not at all! Thanks for watching Tactical 👍
How much does a job like this cost?
The ballast I bought was around $50 & of course no labor since I did it myself. But if you were paying an electrician to do this job you would be between $200-$250 for ballast & labor. Thanks for watching Keith & subscribe to the channel bro 👍
Is that golf cart your transportation
Yep sure is! Gets great mileage lol Thanks for watching Scott 👍
@ChristovTech Yep, Club Car Precedent
@ChristovTech haha nice, I wanna make my club car faster!
Does anyone know how to wire up a 250 watt metal halide ballast?
Your new ballast should of came with some instructions on wiring it up for different applications depending on what setup you have. From my video you can see on the ballast the couple wires I didn't use which are for different voltage. If you have a 240 volt power supply you would use whatever wire is labeled for 240 volts unlike mine which is a 120 volts setup & the orange wire is for 120 volts. Good luck on your project. Thanks for watching Justin & Subscribe to the channel 🔧👍
@@ApartmentMaintenance ur welcome man I got it figured out now thanks man for the help and the video! Hope u have a good year and wish you alot of luck with your electrian job
@@justinmedley2580 Good deal. Thanks for watching & make sure your subscribed to the channel 👍
Why not covert to led and eliminate ballest
That was a thought, & I will probably do that in the future but wanted to keep the lights uniform. Once I get a cost of LED bulbs for how many lights I have at each section of the property I will do each section at once to keep everything the same. There's nothing worse than seeing a property at night with different types of bulbs in the fixtures. Thanks for watching Bruce & Subscribe to the channel 👍
led is bullshit long live halide
Nice!
I usually see these decorative fixtures in High Pressure Sodium never saw one in Metal Halide before.
Also good job keeping it HID and not converting it some LED CRAP.
I don't mind LED for some stuff but I don't like the fact that they are basically the only option for new lighting now .
Also I dislike the fact that they fail before they are supposed to and the unneeded waste of scrapping the good stuff and then doing it again when that LED JUNK fails before it is supposed to!
Nice job there!
Appreciate that! The LED replacement for this fixture is around 8,000 lumens, the metal halide HID bulb is 13,600 lumens. Big difference at night! Thanks for watching Peter & Subscribe to the channel 👍
@@ApartmentMaintenance I got some of the Metal Halide 100W/M90 fixtures when the apartment complex I live in was "upgraded" to LEDS all of them have failed and some more then once! what JUNK they are the company that made the LED retrofits they used are no longer in business anymore (what a surprise, NOT LoL!)
Anyway I got some of the Philips Elite 4K ceramic Metal Halide lamps they are about 9,000 mean lumens and feature excellent CRI and lumen maintenance.
It is a shame they never really took off as the LED replacements came around the same time and they gimped the Metal Halide stuff to make the LEDS look better then they are.
I do use LEDS for some stuff mostly stuff that does not need the higher light levels as security and/or parking lots need.
@@Peter_Yachymczyk Niceeee, yeah I use LEDs inside the apartments but prefer the Metal Halide for the parking lots.
@@ApartmentMaintenance I use them for lamps and stuff but I stay far away from the integrated ones (they usually "praise" as saying "No Bulbs to replace")
They also did the porch lights as well but with the integrated JUNK well it had a replacement parts sheet included but they were NLA (No Longer Available) after 6 months
As they fail they just slap a new one in which leads to different styles the whole purpose of this project was to have all of the same style as the apartments were done in stages so not all matched so this happened again!
I only use fixtures that have a standard medium Edison screw (E-26) if the lamp fails you simply screw another one in instead of replacing the whole fixture.
We had those same style lamp posts on our property and we converted all to LED and it’s been 3+yrs and haven’t had to deal with anymore ballast replacements. Cost of the ballast alone is expensive.
Yeah they can be expensive. I get these ballasts for a good price. $35 for the 8 foot light posts (50W) & $45 for the 12 foot light posts (175W). The HIDS are so much brighter than the LEDs as I've looked into changing them over before. Either way if I have to some day I will. I use the LEDs inside all my apartments & they are great. Thanks for watching Vic & Subscribe to the channel 👍