Bin total begeistert von Deinem Projekt! Ich verfolge es von Woche 1 und hab besonders die Schweißarbeiten gerne beobachtet. Jetzt kommen langsam Sachen, wo Du Rat von jemanden brauchst, der sich auskennt. (Bin auch kein Profi, aber ich kann Dir ein paar Ratschläge geben) Erstens, besorg Dir eine Bilgenpumpe. Sobald hier ein Wassereintritt passiert (und der ist immer unerwartet) und Du hast keine Pumpe, dann ist das schöne Projekt am Seegrund. Bedecke unbedingt die Batteriebank, ein Metallteil/Stahlkabel kann auf die Bank fallen, und es fliegen die Funken. Isoliere die Bodenbretter von unten, wenn es kalt wird, hast Du in jedem warmen Raum Kondensat an den Aussenwänden, auch unten im Maschinenraum. Eigentlich ist Schaum die beste Methode, weil er alle Lücken schließt, das bekommt man mit Isoliermatten nie perfekt hin, und die Matten können auch wieder abgehen, wenn der Kleber alt wird. Die Plastikteile über der Maschine (Kabelschacht, Kabelbinder, geklebte Halterungen) werden bei Stauhitze weich und fallen herunter, ein Kabelbrand im Maschinenraum ist schnell und heftig. Ich denke Du wirst den Generator im Maschinenraum thermisch beobachten müssen, normalerweise sind marine Generatoren gekapselt und wassergekühlt (wie der Hauptmotor). Zum Anschrauben der Bodenbretter kannst Du auf den Stahlrahmen Muttern anschweissen, in die Du dann die Schrauben hineindrehst. Zum Abdichten von Gewinden verwendet man Hanf mit einer Paste. Immer lieber mehr Hanf nehmen, als zu wenig.. ruclips.net/video/HMubWe1L27g/видео.html LG Jürgen
I really like your approach on the cable management. It's the first time I see someone use these cable channels on a boat. They will do a great job to keep things tidy and safe. Also adding or removing cables in the future will be very easy. Most boats I've seen on RUclips have wires running everywhere. Having a tidy and well organized engine room to me is very important, for safety and easy of maintenance. I'm pretty confident you'll nail this part :-)
Maybe a Germanic thing, there is a very high attention to detail in most things done in this series. Even joining the two sections of cable tray, I think most would have left separate.
@@TheHsan22 the level of detail is not that high to European standards, but it's pretty good for a German amateur (no offense). Generally speaking in Europe there is a higher level of detail for jobs like wiring then in North America. Several countries in Europe have strict rules when it comes to electricity. The UK is known for their "procedures" in general. Germany is known for their high standards (Deutsche Gründlichkeit). I work for a big Swedish transport constructor and we have high standards to. All of these high standards trickle down to the DIY level, which is good. When I look at some North American wiring in general, I see stuff you wouldn't got away with in Europe 40 years ago.
@@reinouddelporte911 I'd dare to say that the rat's nest that was in the engine bay when the boat was purchased would never have passed inspection anyway.
should've put some epoxy in those screw holes before mounting it in. For the generator platform you built. Looking good though young man your doing a great job.
I would recommend purchasing a tap set for the common screws, that way you only need to apply locktite onto the screw and mount directly into the steel.
@@ronburns6865 Provided the steel is thick enough to get a good bite.. Most of the time it's not thick enough to get good torque on bolts, screws. 1/8" steel will strip out if you try to tighten the bolts, and over time the few threads tend to get sloppy and finally strip if it doesn't happen on the first tightening. Rivnuts cost a little bit, but they're a good solid fast solution.
fred flintstone agree you are ment to have the thickness of the bolt / setscrew as a minimum. If you want to be precise then the material of the thread hole and bolt come in to play. If you tap a M10 in to 6mm thick angle iron to secure down wood boards OK, but if you were securing a generator or a cleat then no, you would need 12mm thick material to tap for M10
As already said, epoxy the holes, isolate the screws, + use some anti seize on the screws, your doing great, you have the right attitude, it will be something you can truly be proud of, All the best, Al
I have watched every video since finding the channel a couple days ago. The video production is pretty good. The boat has come a long way and I am not a boat guy, but the value has to have really went up.
For hard to reach bolts, have you considered cutting threads into the steel brackets. A little locktite on the bolt and it should hold without a nut. Using a manual hand threader is pretty easy. Just a smaller hole to drill. Worth a try considering how often you are working alone.
Week 32 omg where has the time gone. You have made the Covid-19 more bare able. I’m still working all through lockdown and you have made me relax totally watching your videos. The resin totally finished the edges looked so better it was a good effect also. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
It's nice seeing someone take the time to run wiring and piping the proper way, I see so many people with a rats nest of wires running all over the boat.
It looked quite a bit shorter to me to run the cables under the engine than up to the ceiling and over it. I bet it also would have been shorter to go in front of the engine or over the transmission.
the cable's routing channels is greatest idea. Super clean engine bay. Maybe a blast into the future will end up with e-motor instead of diesel engine.
There is one thing you should think of buying. A taping set. You could tap several holes (f.e. those under the generator board), to make it easier screwing and unscrewing. 4-5mm bars are thick enough for a few cuts, and they will easily hold a quite heavy load. And you can still add nuts to those screws making it perfectly safe even without a chemical locker.
Great video! Here in the U.S.A. we call those bolts instead of screws. Interesting how the methods are similar, but the language/ vocabulary differs. I admire your methodical style and perseverance.
I would suggest captive rivet nuts attached to the frame so you don’t need to hold the traditional ones. Also you may wish to biscuit joint the 2 halves of the boards to maintain a smooth flat surface.
You are making excellent progress and the boat is really starting to take shape! When you get to building the aft deck cover, consider using large solar panels as the roofing. Dangar Marine did it in one of his video and it turned out great.
As a long time boat builder I would suggest you use spray foam insulation between the hull and the finished boards you are putting in. Spray foam will protect the outside cold or heat from getting in or engine noise from getting out. It dampens vibrations and makes cruising down the rivers and oceans much quieter for you and your guests. You are doing a great job already, thank you for the time and energy in making the videos. I love watching people fall in love with boating and living on the water.
habe dein Boot oft in der Rummelsburger Bucht gesehen.. und jetzt aus Zufall auf dein Kanal gestoßen.. die Welt ist klein .. Ich hoffe es kommen noch mehr Videos
Hi you should run the steering cables thru PVC pipes near the battery and electrical board if they sag / swing / break you could have a big problem . Nice work
I'm petty impressed with your multitude of different skills. You're taking your time and doing it right. When finished, this boat will be an extension of yourself. BTW - I was in Berlin two years ago and was impressed with the people I met. Berlin is such a beautiful city with a large swath of young people. You're also developing a sense of humor as you're moving forward!
Ya Work Is Worth it Bro Think of the satisfaction you will get out of it and the New Skills your leart , In the Long Run It will save you heaps of Money Cos for as long as you Own your First boat you will be able to fix anything on it With out farming the Work out
Nice to see the cables will be run neat and tidy! Just a query, when you attached the angle brackets to the cable trunking, it may be better to have the bolt head inside the trunking so it’s smooth and won’t chaff the cables. I think your nut and bolt shank are poking into the cable area. With the vibrations of the engine running they may rub through the cables over time. Excellent job, good to see it moving under its own power 😎
Your project is absolutely awesome. Beautiful boat and very much deserving a full refit. My only criticism is the use of wood in in the engine room. Wherever possible flammable materials should be excluded from machinery spaces.
To isolate the boards under the generator you need rubber washers under the nuts as well, otherwise there is a mechanical link from the board via the bolt to the frame.
I would've flipped the screws for the electrical conduits around. As to have the sharpest edges on the outside, to keep chafing on the electrical wires to a minimum.
I recommend that you also epoxy the screw holes you made in the plywood floor. Water will definitely end up in the screw holes and ruin your great work
The boat is looking good! I’ll just suggest that when dealing with anything that on a boat, over build. If it looks good enough, think of how it can be built stronger and more secure. Boats flex, and vibrate. Overbuild now, to avoid a failure in the future. Keep up the good work!
Suggested title format chang, “My1stBoat (Week 32B)”. Almost did not watch the video based on the Title Shot being the same as your first video for the week. Love your series BTW!!!
On the cable runs, put the dome head on the inside. Having the screw threads and a nut on the inside means that at some point, a wire will rub through and short to the hull. The dome head is a lot smoother, but if you want to be extra careful, put a piece of tape over the screw head as well.
Hi. nice video, congratulations. I like suggest you to fix the wood flor, the platform, by a screw but in holes tapped. In case you have to remove one part in the middle don't need to remove all. same situation in all the parts in the sky, you drill, tap by drilling machine and it's done. Sorry for my Inglish not well I am Italian.. regards.
I am worried about the same thing. How about using 3or 4 inch PVC pipe to make a shroud for the cables? They can move inside the pipe without touching.
@@oualie705 yes i thought of that but i don't know how much slack there is on these cables or if they have anything on them that will make them bind in a tube or if the cables will finally ''eat'' the pvc or metal pipe that is why a said a cover the way it is right now is a fire risk !
It`s always best to coat any bare wood edges and drill hols with Epoxy Resin. to protect the wood from water ingress especially were the wood covers the Bilge
Ich liebe diese Videos. Obwohl mein Englisch grottenschlecht ist verstehe ich erstaunlich viel. I love these videos. Although my English is awfully bad do i understand an amazing amount( Google Übersetzung) ;)
I can't say about using cable channels in marine applications, but I wouldn't leave one of them unsupported in the air. They are not designed for that and will flex and pop open, which you don't want. Just add a steel backplate and you should be fine.
Bin total begeistert von Deinem Projekt! Ich verfolge es von Woche 1 und hab besonders die Schweißarbeiten gerne beobachtet.
Jetzt kommen langsam Sachen, wo Du Rat von jemanden brauchst, der sich auskennt. (Bin auch kein Profi, aber ich kann Dir ein paar Ratschläge geben)
Erstens, besorg Dir eine Bilgenpumpe. Sobald hier ein Wassereintritt passiert (und der ist immer unerwartet) und Du hast keine Pumpe, dann ist das schöne Projekt am Seegrund.
Bedecke unbedingt die Batteriebank, ein Metallteil/Stahlkabel kann auf die Bank fallen, und es fliegen die Funken.
Isoliere die Bodenbretter von unten, wenn es kalt wird, hast Du in jedem warmen Raum Kondensat an den Aussenwänden, auch unten im Maschinenraum. Eigentlich ist Schaum die beste Methode, weil er alle Lücken schließt, das bekommt man mit Isoliermatten nie perfekt hin, und die Matten können auch wieder abgehen, wenn der Kleber alt wird.
Die Plastikteile über der Maschine (Kabelschacht, Kabelbinder, geklebte Halterungen) werden bei Stauhitze weich und fallen herunter, ein Kabelbrand im Maschinenraum ist schnell und heftig.
Ich denke Du wirst den Generator im Maschinenraum thermisch beobachten müssen, normalerweise sind marine Generatoren gekapselt und wassergekühlt (wie der Hauptmotor).
Zum Anschrauben der Bodenbretter kannst Du auf den Stahlrahmen Muttern anschweissen, in die Du dann die Schrauben hineindrehst.
Zum Abdichten von Gewinden verwendet man Hanf mit einer Paste. Immer lieber mehr Hanf nehmen, als zu wenig..
ruclips.net/video/HMubWe1L27g/видео.html
LG Jürgen
Looking better each week!
Hello buddy, another great video. Thank`s for inviting us. Coming along nicely, hat off to you. Well done, stay safe.
I really like your approach on the cable management. It's the first time I see someone use these cable channels on a boat. They will do a great job to keep things tidy and safe. Also adding or removing cables in the future will be very easy. Most boats I've seen on RUclips have wires running everywhere. Having a tidy and well organized engine room to me is very important, for safety and easy of maintenance. I'm pretty confident you'll nail this part :-)
Might be a good idea to put drain holes in those covers in the bilge but.
Maybe a Germanic thing, there is a very high attention to detail in most things done in this series. Even joining the two sections of cable tray, I think most would have left separate.
@@TheHsan22 the level of detail is not that high to European standards, but it's pretty good for a German amateur (no offense). Generally speaking in Europe there is a higher level of detail for jobs like wiring then in North America. Several countries in Europe have strict rules when it comes to electricity. The UK is known for their "procedures" in general. Germany is known for their high standards (Deutsche Gründlichkeit). I work for a big Swedish transport constructor and we have high standards to.
All of these high standards trickle down to the DIY level, which is good. When I look at some North American wiring in general, I see stuff you wouldn't got away with in Europe 40 years ago.
@@reinouddelporte911 I'd dare to say that the rat's nest that was in the engine bay when the boat was purchased would never have passed inspection anyway.
Those cable ducts might go brittle and break from the heat in the engine room though
should've put some epoxy in those screw holes before mounting it in. For the generator platform you built. Looking good though young man your doing a great job.
Also he could probably weld a nut underneath the steel frame so that he won't need help from someone else
I would recommend purchasing a tap set for the common screws, that way you only need to apply locktite onto the screw and mount directly into the steel.
@@ronburns6865 Was going to say the same. You can get drill bits and taps in one so that you don't have to buy a set of taps.
@@ronburns6865 Provided the steel is thick enough to get a good bite.. Most of the time it's not thick enough to get good torque on bolts, screws. 1/8" steel will strip out if you try to tighten the bolts, and over time the few threads tend to get sloppy and finally strip if it doesn't happen on the first tightening. Rivnuts cost a little bit, but they're a good solid fast solution.
fred flintstone agree you are ment to have the thickness of the bolt / setscrew as a minimum. If you want to be precise then the material of the thread hole and bolt come in to play. If you tap a M10 in to 6mm thick angle iron to secure down wood boards OK, but if you were securing a generator or a cleat then no, you would need 12mm thick material to tap for M10
Great work.....👍🚢
As already said, epoxy the holes, isolate the screws, + use some anti seize on the screws, your doing great, you have the right attitude, it will be something you can truly be proud of, All the best, Al
Took a brake from my own project just to watch yours lol. Engine room looks 100% Nice work!
To be able to work is such a blessing
great video again ur so good!
I have watched every video since finding the channel a couple days ago.
The video production is pretty good. The boat has come a long way and I am not a boat guy, but the value has to have really went up.
Great work. Inside is going to look better and better. But outside a lot of of work still has to be done.
For hard to reach bolts, have you considered cutting threads into the steel brackets. A little locktite on the bolt and it should hold without a nut. Using a manual hand threader is pretty easy. Just a smaller hole to drill. Worth a try considering how often you are working alone.
You can get drills and taps in one. Much easier and quicker.
@@tonycamplin8607 you should find one on Amazon Germany for him to order
Gute Arbeit 👍
1:50 - Clever! 👍👍👍
I enjoy your narration almost as much as the work. Thank you for the entertainment and education.
here we go..Thank you friend for your vlog..
Nice job, thanks for sharing🇦🇺
Week 32 omg where has the time gone. You have made the Covid-19 more bare able. I’m still working all through lockdown and you have made me relax totally watching your videos. The resin totally finished the edges looked so better it was a good effect also. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
the intro is perfect
Watching from Tokyo, Japan. Enjoying seeing your boat take shape. Thanks!
Good idea on those cable ties that you can open it up for future use👍
Bravo i see all your videos in one night .. continu ✌️🇩🇿
It's nice seeing someone take the time to run wiring and piping the proper way, I see so many people with a rats nest of wires running all over the boat.
It looked quite a bit shorter to me to run the cables under the engine than up to the ceiling and over it. I bet it also would have been shorter to go in front of the engine or over the transmission.
the cable's routing channels is greatest idea. Super clean engine bay. Maybe a blast into the future will end up with e-motor instead of diesel engine.
Look at you, making progress, and with this, I wish you well and Blessings!
Love the progress and process! Great work!
Coming together nicely!
Excelent progress again
Great job man .. im watching u from Saudi Arabia
Excellent content!!
There is one thing you should think of buying. A taping set. You could tap several holes (f.e. those under the generator board), to make it easier screwing and unscrewing. 4-5mm bars are thick enough for a few cuts, and they will easily hold a quite heavy load. And you can still add nuts to those screws making it perfectly safe even without a chemical locker.
Looking great. Best wishes from Texas.
looking real good...great videos well done as always
Splendid as usual thanks !
Great work. Making progress. Sometimes the smallest jobs are the most satisfying!
I like the Volkswagen expansion tank. Nice touch.👍
Good job !
I love your attention to detail! and I can't for the next video and the final product. Cheers from Canada!
Very clean setup 👍
Nice job. Keep up the good work !
Love your videos and your job !
Great video! Here in the U.S.A. we call those bolts instead of screws. Interesting how the methods are similar, but the language/ vocabulary differs. I admire your methodical style and perseverance.
very good idea to protect the plywood field with resin ... !! well done, meticulous work as usual, done within the rules, a pleasure to watch ... !!
I would suggest captive rivet nuts attached to the frame so you don’t need to hold the traditional ones. Also you may wish to biscuit joint the 2 halves of the boards to maintain a smooth flat surface.
Automotive J nuts are quick and simple.
Just tap the steel and bolt in.
All of these are great ideas
You are making excellent progress and the boat is really starting to take shape! When you get to building the aft deck cover, consider using large solar panels as the roofing. Dangar Marine did it in one of his video and it turned out great.
Ich gratuliere zu dieser wirklich hervorragenden Arbeit. Gratuliere und wünsche viel Glück mit dem Boot. 👍👍👍
As a long time boat builder I would suggest you use spray foam insulation between the hull and the finished boards you are putting in. Spray foam will protect the outside cold or heat from getting in or engine noise from getting out. It dampens vibrations and makes cruising down the rivers and oceans much quieter for you and your guests. You are doing a great job already, thank you for the time and energy in making the videos. I love watching people fall in love with boating and living on the water.
Wouldn't that create a nightmare if you ever have to weld on the hull in the future? That stuff gives off seriously nasty fumes when it burns.
Another excellent breakdown of your work so far.
:)
Looking great !
All starting to come together now. Nice!
Wow your boat is very cool i can wait is repainted is must good i hope i can have boat like your boat old but is vintage
habe dein Boot oft in der Rummelsburger Bucht gesehen.. und jetzt aus Zufall auf dein Kanal gestoßen.. die Welt ist klein .. Ich hoffe es kommen noch mehr Videos
Nice job done! Keep it up.
As always, strong work!
Coming together!!
Great job!
Nice job!
Looking great
Great video as always, your progress is amazing, can’t wait for the next one!!
Your measuring is a clever way of doing it, I will use that technique in the future, like it 👍
love ur videos man
Hi you should run the steering cables thru PVC pipes near the battery and electrical board if they sag / swing / break you could have a big problem . Nice work
The cable trays give it a nice clean look, I gotta get some for my project. Thanks for sharing, David and Tammy from Florida.
Hi
Hilti make a self drilling and self tapping screws which speed up the fixing of wood to steel.
Good progress!
This project is really coming along. Keep up the good work!
I'm petty impressed with your multitude of different skills. You're taking your time and doing it right. When finished, this boat will be an extension of yourself. BTW - I was in Berlin two years ago and was impressed with the people I met. Berlin is such a beautiful city with a large swath of young people. You're also developing a sense of humor as you're moving forward!
Awesome work again this week, I really love your attention to details, and your brush strokes. A true artisan that's considerate of the fishies 😁🖒💛👍🛥
keep up the good work I discovered your channel last week and have watched all the videos and am now subbed
Ya Work Is Worth it Bro Think of the satisfaction you will get out of it and the New Skills your leart , In the Long Run It will save you heaps of Money Cos for as long as you Own your First boat you will be able to fix anything on it With out farming the Work out
You should seal the screw holes you put in the wood.
Omg a enviro nut off the charts
Nice to see the cables will be run neat and tidy!
Just a query, when you attached the angle brackets to the cable trunking, it may be better to have the bolt head inside the trunking so it’s smooth and won’t chaff the cables. I think your nut and bolt shank are poking into the cable area. With the vibrations of the engine running they may rub through the cables over time.
Excellent job, good to see it moving under its own power 😎
Du machst super Videos! Du hast viele Arveitstunden in dein erstes Boat. Viele Grüsse aus Ungarn! Mach so weiter!😉
Cheers from Brazil 🇧🇷
Your project is absolutely awesome. Beautiful boat and very much deserving a full refit. My only criticism is the use of wood in in the engine room. Wherever possible flammable materials should be excluded from machinery spaces.
To isolate the boards under the generator you need rubber washers under the nuts as well, otherwise there is a mechanical link from the board via the bolt to the frame.
hi! im really enjoying your videos! keep it up! grusse aus BW!
New subscriber thanks for the amazing content. Just watched all your videos amazing project
I would've flipped the screws for the electrical conduits around. As to have the sharpest edges on the outside, to keep chafing on the electrical wires to a minimum.
and I would have flipped some of the conduits around... easier to load them from the side, then from underneath
@@theorganguy Definately!
Great work! I also use Danboline bilge paint and it works really well.
I recommend that you also epoxy the screw holes you made in the plywood floor. Water will definitely end up in the screw holes and ruin your great work
Great insulation
The boat is looking good!
I’ll just suggest that when dealing with anything that on a boat, over build.
If it looks good enough, think of how it can be built stronger and more secure.
Boats flex, and vibrate. Overbuild now, to avoid a failure in the future.
Keep up the good work!
Okay professor ...
You forgot to seal the screw holes before you bolted them down. Very nice job. Regards Billy from S A.
You might need to run your steering cables through a piece of pvc piping so it won’t damage the wood you just installed. 👍
Ya, that does seem a bit sketchy. Those cables will easily gouge the heck out of the wood.
Wirklich klasse Arbeit :) ich freu mich auf weitere Videos :D
Suggested title format chang, “My1stBoat (Week 32B)”. Almost did not watch the video based on the Title Shot being the same as your first video for the week. Love your series BTW!!!
On the cable runs, put the dome head on the inside. Having the screw threads and a nut on the inside means that at some point, a wire will rub through and short to the hull. The dome head is a lot smoother, but if you want to be extra careful, put a piece of tape over the screw head as well.
Hi. nice video, congratulations. I like suggest you to fix the wood flor, the platform, by a screw but in holes tapped. In case you have to remove one part in the middle don't need to remove all. same situation in all the parts in the sky, you drill, tap by drilling machine and it's done. Sorry for my Inglish not well I am Italian.. regards.
Shelf for the generator looks good. But shouldn't you add resin to the bolt holes to prevent water intrusion there too?
Yeah pretty sure you're right. What would you do if you didn't want to go back and do that though? Maybe some butyl?
The main issue is to keep the inside of the boat dry.
Looking great. Thats a serious rust hole in the end. Cut it out weld it up.
hello i am really troubled about the steel cables (for the steering i suppose ) near the batteries so maybe a cover for the batteries is a must !!!
I am worried about the same thing. How about using 3or 4 inch PVC pipe to make a shroud for the cables? They can move inside the pipe without touching.
@@oualie705 yes i thought of that but i don't know how much slack there is on these cables or if they have anything on them that will make them bind in a tube or if the cables will finally ''eat'' the pvc or metal pipe that is why a said a cover the way it is right now is a fire risk !
It`s always best to coat any bare wood edges and drill hols with Epoxy Resin. to protect the wood from water ingress especially were the wood covers the Bilge
Ich liebe diese Videos. Obwohl mein Englisch grottenschlecht ist verstehe ich erstaunlich viel.
I love these videos. Although my English is awfully bad do i understand an amazing amount( Google Übersetzung) ;)
On the bottom of the boards maybe some sound insulation to absorb engine/generator noise?
If you upload on Saturday next week could I have a shout out cos it's my birthday also the boat is looking great compared to when it started
I can't say about using cable channels in marine applications, but I wouldn't leave one of them unsupported in the air. They are not designed for that and will flex and pop open, which you don't want. Just add a steel backplate and you should be fine.
I would have recommended insulation on the hull before you placed the wood.