The glaze on the cups look great. I use the celadons all the time on texture and thought I'd mention that the Celadon - Smoke turns out a smokey ( funny that ;) charcoal colour but pools nearly black in carving and texture ( on white clay) and you can really see the clay body through it. Love watching your reviews always interesting to see how other potters use the same glazes or get to see ones that I haven't tried yet :)
Your channel is one of the best pottery channels out there. I recently discovered you and have watched a lot of your videos. You explain stuff so well.
One that glaze got me wanting to go back to dating only glazes. And 2 the Crystal glaze cups are giving me a nausicaa valley of the wind underground forest vibes.
Amacos C-5 Charcoal is a great way to get a more "celedon-y" looking black (so... grey on white body, with deeper saturation in pooling) I have found. Loooove the range of celedons with PC's. It's everything I do right now. :D
I love big cups, my favourite mug is a pint size and I have an even bigger one in the kiln! I drink all of the tea in it and then fill it up with more tea. Really enjoying your glaze testing series, thank you for making them! I'm trying to decide between making my own or buying some glazes before I spend a ton of money on it.
I love obsidian with slashes of seaweed and Smokey merlot over it, then splatter the whole thing with running hot chowder. But your crystal glaze beats even that look! Are you willing to share the recipe?
Your glaze combo tests are always interesting to see. Thanks! It would be interesting (and helpful) if you added information about your firings as well, particularly the end point. ^5? ^6? ^x? Do you use visual cones?, kiln sitter?, computer? They are all different. Do you ramp up or more importantly, ramp down? Also, you should do a little research on reduction fired iron bearing glazes. Historic celadons are high fire (^10) feldspathic glazes. These glazes produce everything from very pale blue-green (~0 (because they get iron from the clay in the glaze itself or even the iron in the clay body) or 1% RIO) to deeper blue or blue-green ~1-3%) to olive greens (~4-7%) and eventually to dark ambers (~7-8%) and the so-called "temmokus", which appear black and are also called "saturated iron" glazes because they usually contain ~9+% iron oxide (AMACO Obsidian appears to be a saturated iron glaze, which is why it appears black and is not the transparent glaze you are expecting like your other AMACO "Celadons"). You can make all these with the same base glaze, just vary the iron oxide level and type. But true celadons are always iron bearing. You can also vary the type of iron oxide used: red IO, yellow IO, ochre, umber, sienna, crocus martis, etc. even iron bearing clays in the glaze (from kaolins and ball clays to stoneware clays and red clays (like Redart) will all produce those blues/greens/ambers/blacks of the celadon family. The crucial part, however is that a reduction atmosphere is required to produce these blue-greens from iron. Commercial glaze manufacturers have created transparent glazes containing natural or artificial ceramic stains (e.g. Mason stains) that produce transparent and [usually] pastel colored glazes. If they include iron oxide in their "Celadon" series, it will always be amber colored and never blue-green because, oxidation. The chemistry of the different oxidation levels of iron and their associated colors is what is responsible for these glaze colors. But no need to get into chemistry here. Commercial glaze manufacturers are unfortunately just creating misnamed glazes and not historical celadons, which is unfortunate and misleading for the user. Like shino glazes, celadons rely on the kiln atmosphere (reduction) to transform the yellow-orange (in oxidation) glazes to the blue-green, typical of celadons. This can also be demonstrated with copper, which is normally turquoise in oxidation, but can produce brilliant reds in reduction (the so called "copper red" family). True shinos develop no color in oxidation but anemic white and their ^6 oxidation analogs are glazes that look vaguely like true shinos (if you squint really hard!). I am not saying fake ^6 celadons and shinos are bad glazes. They can be quite lovely when skillfully applied and fired. They are just not real celadons and shinos. You seem to get some nice macro crystalline growth in some of your glazes, which is a product of the glaze chemistry AND the firing schedule (usually down ramping, since electric kilns typically cool very rapidly and crystal growth relies on the glaze staying fluid for some period). This is why I mention your including firing details in your test videos. Keep experimenting!
I appreciate your testing and feedback on glazes. Your energy is fun and entertaining. I wonder about the pin holing. Would a hold time make a difference? It's cone 5-6 glaze. I don't know... It looks like gassing off and not having enough time to reseal.
Nevermind my gold glaze on the black bowls comment. You should definitely just dip the black bowls rim (top 1/3 of the body) in your crystal glaze. That looks amazing. 🤩🥺😭
Interesting. Thought these amaco glazes were all brush on and dipping them was a no no but I see you have no issue with doing that. Thoughts on when you use each technique?
I have a question...do you have to put the pieces in the kiln first for fire bisque and then put it in again for the glazing coating?....or is it possible to get them bisque done already ...My question may sound silly but I am new by here and don't know anything much
No that's not a silly question at all. Technically speaking the only purpose to putting our pottery in the bisque after it's completely dry is for handleability and ease of use when we're glazing. Technically speaking, you can put it in just once and fire it to its fully fired glazed temperature, but, You need a special firing schedule and generally goes way slower in order to make sure the water in the clay bodies don't heat up too fast and break the pots or explode. Most people put them in the bisque first, take them out, glaze them, and then put them in again for the glaze but it is technically possible and I know a few people that do it.
Although there have been review of theirs that I have openly been displeased with the glaze. Money dosent effect my honesty with my community about a product. ;)
Happy birthday!
Ty
@@EarthNationCeramics cool when is your birthday? Mine is December 27th
ADD SMOKY MERLOT ON TOP OF THE OBSIDIAN, LET DRY AND THEN ADDA WAVY LINE OF SEAWEED AROUND THE BOWL. (ALL POTTERS CHOICE) IT IS BEAUTIFUL.
THANK YOU SO MUCH IM LITERALLY ABOUT TO USE THUS NOW I LOVE YOU
I added Oatmeal as a rim on Obsidian and got a beautiful blue rim. Thanks!
The glaze on the cups look great. I use the celadons all the time on texture and thought I'd mention that the Celadon - Smoke turns out a smokey
( funny that ;) charcoal colour but pools nearly black in carving and texture ( on white clay) and you can really see the clay body through it. Love watching your reviews always interesting to see how other potters use the same glazes or get to see ones that I haven't tried yet :)
One of the first glazes I used when I started making pottery again. So good.
Add indigo float and a band of seaweed for amazing results with obsidian. Its my favorite mix.
Your channel is one of the best pottery channels out there. I recently discovered you and have watched a lot of your videos. You explain stuff so well.
Love using Obsidian Celadon on white textured clay - it breaks beautifully!
One that glaze got me wanting to go back to dating only glazes. And 2 the Crystal glaze cups are giving me a nausicaa valley of the wind underground forest vibes.
Happy belated birthday!!!
Gonna have to add this to my glaze collection 🤩
Use a gold accent on the black bowls when you re-fire them.
Happy birthday. Love your reviews. You should give amaco oat meal a review. It is nice on rims as it runs well and dies some amazing stuff
That crystal glaze combo is awesome!!❤️❤️
Happy New Year to you! I always love to watch your glaze reviews, even if I already use that glaze😉
so beautiful! keep it going, so helpful:) happy new year
I am obsessed with obsidian! It is magic layered with everything that I have tried!
ditto!
And I've been using storm and weeping plum. all beautiful layered. :D
Amacos C-5 Charcoal is a great way to get a more "celedon-y" looking black (so... grey on white body, with deeper saturation in pooling) I have found.
Loooove the range of celedons with PC's. It's everything I do right now. :D
Seethroughidness also know as opacity. No worries, we love ya sunshine.🙃😁
Happy Birthday Donte! A Happy New Year too😊😊😊😊
I'd be curious to see the bowls reglazed with lumos on the inside
I love big cups, my favourite mug is a pint size and I have an even bigger one in the kiln! I drink all of the tea in it and then fill it up with more tea. Really enjoying your glaze testing series, thank you for making them! I'm trying to decide between making my own or buying some glazes before I spend a ton of money on it.
I love obsidian with slashes of seaweed and Smokey merlot over it, then splatter the whole thing with running hot chowder. But your crystal glaze beats even that look! Are you willing to share the recipe?
Lollll I love watching your vids 🤣🤣🤣 your excitement is gold 😂👌🏽
Your glaze combo tests are always interesting to see. Thanks! It would be interesting (and helpful) if you added information about your firings as well, particularly the end point. ^5? ^6? ^x? Do you use visual cones?, kiln sitter?, computer? They are all different. Do you ramp up or more importantly, ramp down? Also, you should do a little research on reduction fired iron bearing glazes. Historic celadons are high fire (^10) feldspathic glazes. These glazes produce everything from very pale blue-green (~0 (because they get iron from the clay in the glaze itself or even the iron in the clay body) or 1% RIO) to deeper blue or blue-green ~1-3%) to olive greens (~4-7%) and eventually to dark ambers (~7-8%) and the so-called "temmokus", which appear black and are also called "saturated iron" glazes because they usually contain ~9+% iron oxide (AMACO Obsidian appears to be a saturated iron glaze, which is why it appears black and is not the transparent glaze you are expecting like your other AMACO "Celadons"). You can make all these with the same base glaze, just vary the iron oxide level and type. But true celadons are always iron bearing. You can also vary the type of iron oxide used: red IO, yellow IO, ochre, umber, sienna, crocus martis, etc. even iron bearing clays in the glaze (from kaolins and ball clays to stoneware clays and red clays (like Redart) will all produce those blues/greens/ambers/blacks of the celadon family. The crucial part, however is that a reduction atmosphere is required to produce these blue-greens from iron. Commercial glaze manufacturers have created transparent glazes containing natural or artificial ceramic stains (e.g. Mason stains) that produce transparent and [usually] pastel colored glazes. If they include iron oxide in their "Celadon" series, it will always be amber colored and never blue-green because, oxidation. The chemistry of the different oxidation levels of iron and their associated colors is what is responsible for these glaze colors. But no need to get into chemistry here. Commercial glaze manufacturers are unfortunately just creating misnamed glazes and not historical celadons, which is unfortunate and misleading for the user. Like shino glazes, celadons rely on the kiln atmosphere (reduction) to transform the yellow-orange (in oxidation) glazes to the blue-green, typical of celadons. This can also be demonstrated with copper, which is normally turquoise in oxidation, but can produce brilliant reds in reduction (the so called "copper red" family). True shinos develop no color in oxidation but anemic white and their ^6 oxidation analogs are glazes that look vaguely like true shinos (if you squint really hard!). I am not saying fake ^6 celadons and shinos are bad glazes. They can be quite lovely when skillfully applied and fired. They are just not real celadons and shinos. You seem to get some nice macro crystalline growth in some of your glazes, which is a product of the glaze chemistry AND the firing schedule (usually down ramping, since electric kilns typically cool very rapidly and crystal growth relies on the glaze staying fluid for some period). This is why I mention your including firing details in your test videos. Keep experimenting!
See-thoughedness... transparency/translucence 😁
Obsidian is my favorite among my 200+ commercial glazes!
I appreciate your testing and feedback on glazes. Your energy is fun and entertaining. I wonder about the pin holing. Would a hold time make a difference? It's cone 5-6 glaze. I don't know... It looks like gassing off and not having enough time to reseal.
Nevermind my gold glaze on the black bowls comment. You should definitely just dip the black bowls rim (top 1/3 of the body) in your crystal glaze. That looks amazing. 🤩🥺😭
Happy birthday 🎉 and many more
Omg! Gorgeous!!
I love Obsidian. Can you try testing Amaco June Bug?
Love Amaco celadon glazes on porcelain
Completely random question. When you silk screen onto a piece of bisque and glaze over it. Is the silk screen a special kind of ink/paint?
Have the black love it great video
My cup!! I love it!!!!
is it stable enough to use it in carvings and not have it move?
So you can pour it straight out of the container??? No need to brush?!
Interesting. Thought these amaco glazes were all brush on and dipping them was a no no but I see you have no issue with doing that. Thoughts on when you use each technique?
Just found your channel, very interesting 👍
what would happen if you mixed c-11? (clear) thanks, vincent defatta
Beautiful!! 😍
What if you put cosmic tea dust over obsidian?
When/if you add water to an amaco celadon how much would you add? I find them to be pretty thick glazes and this looks a bit thinner.
A very little amount. About 1/4th cup at most usually. Then I mix
Is this just one layer of pouring glaze or did you do multiple pours?
Yes I would like to know also is this one layer of poured or more? Thank you
I have a question...do you have to put the pieces in the kiln first for fire bisque and then put it in again for the glazing coating?....or is it possible to get them bisque done already ...My question may sound silly but I am new by here and don't know anything much
No that's not a silly question at all.
Technically speaking the only purpose to putting our pottery in the bisque after it's completely dry is for handleability and ease of use when we're glazing.
Technically speaking, you can put it in just once and fire it to its fully fired glazed temperature, but, You need a special firing schedule and generally goes way slower in order to make sure the water in the clay bodies don't heat up too fast and break the pots or explode.
Most people put them in the bisque first, take them out, glaze them, and then put them in again for the glaze but it is technically possible and I know a few people that do it.
If it’s cladone why can’t we see through to clay body
Be safe down there dude
It's designed as a brush on glaze. This doesn't really test it as designed.
Needs more texture.
Why do you pour in this brush on glaze? No one does this... It needs to be brushed on for this to be a real test... Please do this?
I'm just going to leave this here for you.
ruclips.net/video/IeG4Awcait4/видео.html
Sponsored review I see.
More to come I guess since they got a 17 minute all out positive ad.
Most of the Amaco glazes videos are sponsored but this is the last sponsored one from them. The contract ends after 10 episodes.
Although there have been review of theirs that I have openly been displeased with the glaze. Money dosent effect my honesty with my community about a product. ;)
@@EarthNationCeramics I am glad to hear that.
Thanks for replying to explain further.
Happy birthday 🎉 and many more
Happy birthday!