Yeah people are running their factory oil fill for 10k miles. All that new metal from the motor grinding itself around. I change my oil twice as often as recommended. 12 year old car and running perfect.
That 7.3 is a traditional v8 design from yrs gone.If you were to go back 20+yrs,we'd run 10w30 and change it out @3000 miles/5000kms in an engine like this.Thats what I'd do personally. I have watched a few tests on MotorCraft oil and the results were good,better than I expected. Again ,if it were me,I would switch to 10w30, change it 3k miles and use Ford oil and filter.
Most of it is, this engine still has a variable cam phaser and a stupid variable oil pump, which I believe is the reason for the lifter issues due to low oil flow at idle. Thanks Ford for ruining what could have been a great engine.
I have 2 2020's. one with 136k and used by 3 different of my guys and my personal truck at 62k. Not one mechanical issue, but other than a few battery's. I change the oil every 5k miles. Full synthetic. We pull heavy and long. great trucks, and my employee will buy the one when it hits 150-175k and then Ill order another one.
Amsoil 100% synthetic all the way and change frequently! Great vid and great info! Keep in mind that “full synthetic” doesn’t mean 100% synthetic. It only has to be 25% synthetic by volume to be labeled “full synthetic.” Amsoil is 100% synthetic. 👍🏻
I’ve run amsoil in every single truck I have owned and never had a single engine problem so either I’m lucky or amsoil works. 12’ 6.7 ps 15’ 6.7 ps 17’ 6.7 ps 19’ 6.6 dm 20’ 6.6 dm Now two 22’ 7.3 gas fords All trucks traded with 65k-100k miles
ASE master tech and I agree 100% with using Amsoil. I 13:54 have 340k miles and no failures using Amsoil. In addition to low oil quality, I believe cheap China built lifters are cause of many failures. The needle bearing fails causing roller to move up and lifter drops down.
@@TimTheCarMaster I work several guys with GM trucks with AFM engines. Most of them have over 200k miles on their trucks, no lifter failures. I assumed that they turned AFM off. Not a single one knew that you could even do that and they weren't particularly worried about it. I know for a fact that three of them with over 200k miles are the type that change their oil every 3000 miles no matter what. Clean oil seems to be the biggest factor, not high priced boutique oil. Perhaps in a turbocharged engine where the oil is pushed a lot harder, I could see spending tons of money on the top of the line oil. I don't see that value with a standard pushrod V8. Avoid extended idle time, change the oil often, avoid short trips in cold weather, etc.
With the availability of synthetic oils nowadays it's an absolute disservice from Ford to recommend synthetic blends and these high output and their turbo engines
@@amiliosanchez I’m sure they do. Not my fault Ford over charges for their oils. The actual price difference is negligible when comparing to other brands of full synthetic. The comment stands with the fact that blend oils do not stand up to the recommended oil change intervals for turbo engines. 2 things can be true at the same time. The blend oils are inadequate and people will complain.
Run 5w40 amsoil. Do a test a 5k miles. We run 15w40 in everything and never had any issues. Gas and diesel. They run the thinner oil l for fuel mileage.
Yeah Ford should have already had full synthetic oil to start with like the other manufactures, instead of being cheap with a blend. You should try Mobil 1 5w30 which a little heavier and shouldn't hurt anything, unless you start the day out in lows of 20 degrees and highs of 40 degrees. I have sent off many samples of Mobil 1 5w30 whether it be extended performance, or just the Regular synthetic with good results even at the 7000 mile oil change intervals. Black Stone Laboratories has been pretty consistent with all the samples that I have sent them. I have a GM 5.3 with 216,000 miles with minimal wear from each of results showing normal, I don't think that it should be any different in the 7.3 , as it's a push rod engine to and it's a pretty stout engine. I believe that the Motorcraft synthetic blend doesn't have the additive package that Mobil 1, Pennzoil , or any of the other brands have, and that may be half of the problem that's happening with the lifter and camshaft problems. As a matter of fact, I'd run Shell Rottella if they made lower multi viscosity oil for tighter tolerance engines, that's a very good oil.
Ford gasoline engines seem to do good by changing the oil no later than 5000 miles or every 6 months with the Motorcraft 5w-20 or 5w-30. Thats worked well for me for the last 30 years.
I wanted to buy one. 7.3 lifted big BFG's............ Then I learned about he adjustable oil pressure pump. How could ford F it up that bad... not an accident....... Sucks almost a great motor. Guess I need to build a 460
Ford recommends 7500 mile between oil change , best bet if you going to stay with ford, change every 3-4k miles. No need to go to amsoil , but amsoil is a good option
That's what I'm saying. I work with a lot of guys with newer (2014 or newer) GM trucks with AFM lifters. Some of them have over 200k miles. They change their oil really often like older timers always did and none of them have had an AFM lifter problem surprisingly. It's about clean oil, not how fancy of a full synthetic you use. Get the contaminants, carbon soot, combustion byproducts, etc out of the engine. The filter isn't cleaning that stuff out of the oil. Only an oil change accomplishes that.
Use it for what you consider "normal". This is the trick automakers use to get you into another vehicle sooner. Short trips don't help either. 10k miles will hurt the engine and if you're towing 7-10k (weight of the truck) good luck with that. Steep hills are going to accelerate the lifter issue.
Have a 2022 F350 with the 7.3, check engine light came on with misfire in cylinder #3. Just heard from the dealership they have to put a whole new engine in it (lifter issues). Only 25k miles on it with almost zero towing and primarily highway miles.
I tow. Payload of 2k plus daily. City drive. Synthetic with 5k intervals engine. Trans and rear diff every 30k. Grease all zerks with oil changes. If you use your truck daily for work then have a regular maintenance interval.
Thin oil is the problem. Thin oil is used only because of the epa/government involvement. Don’t believe me? Look at what every race car runs. None except for maybe Indy cars. Idk what they run. Better quality higher viscosity make all the difference in the world. More than one person brought me their cars that were having lifter issues and rough running. I had them come back regularly to learn the pattern. I went from 5-20 to 10-30 1040 depending on mileage and time of year and all their problems stop.
I've been wanting to buy one of these trucks for awhile. I love running a powerstroke or a Cummins, but i just can't justify spending the $$ maintaining them anymore. Gone are the days of a true, reliable diesel. However, have you thought of running lucas in it or marvel mystery oil? Might give your oil an added boost that it needs.
When your oil life monitor reaches 50% change it. Oil is cheap compared to engines, even using Amsoil every 5,000 miles you’d have to do over 100 oil changes to equal the cost of ONE new engine. I’m quite sure by 500,000 miles that engine will have had it no matter what oil you use.
It's not about using the fanciest oil, it's about changing it often and getting the contaminants out of the engine! None of these high priced boutique oils can magically remove combustion byproducts, carbon soot, etc. The filter can't do that either.
Try Amsoil from a lot of research, Motorcraft oil is terrible. I’ve seen so many problems when people use nothing but Motorcraft it’s like the 3.5 ecoboost with people having cam phasers and timing chain problems. I have a friend who has a 2015 3.5 ecoboost and he’s ran Amsoil since day one and that truck runs flawlessly it has 150,000 miles on it at the moment. And he also has a 2018 Mustang with a 5.0 that is known for having the coyote tick. We ran Amsoil since the day he bought it and that is as quiet as can be and it currently has 50,000 miles on it.
The roller lifters and cams run in these newer engine should have much less tendency for wear than the old flat tappet lifters used for almost 100 years prior. I use Valvoline Full Synthetic 5w-30 and change it every 5000 miles in all my trucks and cars. The manufacturers seem to think thinner oil equals higher MPG.
From New information it seems like a lot of the failures were from the 300hp version and the variable oil pump wasn't creating enough pressure. Ford just discontinued that version
When you run your truck hard everyday you should use a quality oil and change it every 3 thousand miles. It will take care of you if you take care of it.
Sorry the problem is this. We have a whole fleet of these engines in the fleet side or the customer side idle oil pressure 5 to 7 pounds too low. We just got the new software to bring it up to 30 psi at idle for the oil pressure and we brought the oil from 5:30 to 10:30 regular oil not synthetic.
My son has a 2017 Silverado with a 5.3 engine, it specifies a 0w-20 engine oil. Sure seems light to my thinking. He runs a full synthetic Castrol and it holds 8 quarts.
Changing the oil more often is the most important thing with the AFM engines. 5k mile oil changes is pushing it. 3k mile oil changes is best, particularly if it sees a lot of short trips in cold weather. That kind of driving causing more fuel and moisture to get into the oil and form deposits in the tiny oil passages of the AFM system.
I agree. The solution is to get something more reasonable, like valvoline or penzoil, and change every 3-5k miles. But if somebody has the dough to pay for 3k service with amsoil, more power to them.
How are those rear leaf springs since they now use less leafs due to better spring steel? My 2001 7.3 has 5 plus an overload and rides pretty smooth and the truck only drops an inch with a 6200 lbs bobcat on a short steel trailer. Anyone else here have the same approx. 1" drop with the newer springs or do more leafs need to be added to the newer trucks?
I own a 6.7 deleted and a 7.3 has both in F250’s. The 7.3 at 97,000 miles is definitely less expensive to own and operate compared to the 6.7. Both pull trailers most of the time.
6.0 was extremely hard on oil. 4000psi oil system that has to lube the injectors and run through a cooler buried in the valley so the oil easily gets too hot.
All boils down to frequent oil change intervals. No more than 5K. No excessive idling. All the oil change intervals in the owner manuals are way too far apart. And it's listed for normal driving.
7.3 Godzilla is an absolute dud of an engine. Makes less power than the 5.0 and gets way worse gas mileage. Ford fooled people into thinking that more displacement = more power. If the 7.3 made over 500HP stock, I wouldn't be shitting on it. It makes 430HP/475TQ. A Ram 2500 with a 6.4 has it outclassed in power AND reliability. All Ford had to do is make a Coyote based V8 for the F250/F350 that made more power and torque and it would have been way better. Instead they made a pushrod engine in a failed attempt to appeal to the aftermarket, and they can't even GIVE these things away. They need the truck transmission, smaller oil pan, different intake manifold, etc to fit in a car. Then you have to bash the shit out of the transmission tunnel and possibly cut the engine bay for it to fit. Not worth the effort. All for what? To say you've got a 7.3L big block V8? No thanks.
I’ve been towing an 8,000 lb trailer back and forth across the rockies with the 5.0 Coyote for the last 4 years. I recently bought the 7.3 and its no contest. The 5.0 was working to the limit, and with the 7.3 its effortless. This guy is clueless, and has zero actual experience with either engine - just another spec reading keyboard warrior.
I run valvoline full synthetic 5w30 and I change it every 3k miles. Oil is cheap, engines are not. It’s that simple.
Yeah people are running their factory oil fill for 10k miles. All that new metal from the motor grinding itself around. I change my oil twice as often as recommended. 12 year old car and running perfect.
If you have to change the oil that often then the engine is a POS
That 7.3 is a traditional v8 design from yrs gone.If you were to go back 20+yrs,we'd run 10w30 and change it out @3000 miles/5000kms in an engine like this.Thats what I'd do personally. I have watched a few tests on MotorCraft oil and the results were good,better than I expected. Again ,if it were me,I would switch to 10w30, change it 3k miles and use Ford oil and filter.
I can dig it
Most of it is, this engine still has a variable cam phaser and a stupid variable oil pump, which I believe is the reason for the lifter issues due to low oil flow at idle. Thanks Ford for ruining what could have been a great engine.
I have 2 2020's. one with 136k and used by 3 different of my guys and my personal truck at 62k. Not one mechanical issue, but other than a few battery's. I change the oil every 5k miles. Full synthetic. We pull heavy and long. great trucks, and my employee will buy the one when it hits 150-175k and then Ill order another one.
Amsoil 100% synthetic all the way and change frequently! Great vid and great info! Keep in mind that “full synthetic” doesn’t mean 100% synthetic. It only has to be 25% synthetic by volume to be labeled “full synthetic.” Amsoil is 100% synthetic. 👍🏻
This guy gets it! Not enough people are aware of this with modern oils.
I’ve run amsoil in every single truck I have owned and never had a single engine problem so either I’m lucky or amsoil works.
12’ 6.7 ps
15’ 6.7 ps
17’ 6.7 ps
19’ 6.6 dm
20’ 6.6 dm
Now two 22’ 7.3 gas fords
All trucks traded with 65k-100k miles
ASE master tech and I agree 100% with using Amsoil. I 13:54 have 340k miles and no failures using Amsoil. In addition to low oil quality, I believe cheap China built lifters are cause of many failures. The needle bearing fails causing roller to move up and lifter drops down.
@@TimTheCarMaster I work several guys with GM trucks with AFM engines. Most of them have over 200k miles on their trucks, no lifter failures. I assumed that they turned AFM off. Not a single one knew that you could even do that and they weren't particularly worried about it. I know for a fact that three of them with over 200k miles are the type that change their oil every 3000 miles no matter what. Clean oil seems to be the biggest factor, not high priced boutique oil. Perhaps in a turbocharged engine where the oil is pushed a lot harder, I could see spending tons of money on the top of the line oil. I don't see that value with a standard pushrod V8. Avoid extended idle time, change the oil often, avoid short trips in cold weather, etc.
Gotta watch out for the Fool Synthetic.
With the availability of synthetic oils nowadays it's an absolute disservice from Ford to recommend synthetic blends and these high output and their turbo engines
After seeing these results I have to say I agree.
I'm a ford tech and people complain synthetic blends prices. You're funny if you think they'll pay for FS oil change
@@amiliosanchez I’m sure they do. Not my fault Ford over charges for their oils. The actual price difference is negligible when comparing to other brands of full synthetic. The comment stands with the fact that blend oils do not stand up to the recommended oil change intervals for turbo engines. 2 things can be true at the same time. The blend oils are inadequate and people will complain.
Rotella T6 in all the things!
Run 5w40 amsoil. Do a test a 5k miles. We run 15w40 in everything and never had any issues. Gas and diesel. They run the thinner oil l for fuel mileage.
Yes thin oil is for fuel mileage, we run 15-40 diesel oil and put 160,000 miles on our 7.3.
Yeah Ford should have already had full synthetic oil to start with like the other manufactures, instead of being cheap with a blend. You should try Mobil 1 5w30 which a little heavier and shouldn't hurt anything, unless you start the day out in lows of 20 degrees and highs of 40 degrees. I have sent off many samples of Mobil 1 5w30 whether it be extended performance, or just the Regular synthetic with good results even at the 7000 mile oil change intervals. Black Stone Laboratories has been pretty consistent with all the samples that I have sent them. I have a GM 5.3 with 216,000 miles with minimal wear from each of results showing normal, I don't think that it should be any different in the 7.3 , as it's a push rod engine to and it's a pretty stout engine. I believe that the Motorcraft synthetic blend doesn't have the additive package that Mobil 1, Pennzoil , or any of the other brands have, and that may be half of the problem that's happening with the lifter and camshaft problems. As a matter of fact, I'd run Shell Rottella if they made lower multi viscosity oil for tighter tolerance engines, that's a very good oil.
Ford gasoline engines seem to do good by changing the oil no later than 5000 miles or every 6 months with the Motorcraft 5w-20 or 5w-30. Thats worked well for me for the last 30 years.
I wanted to buy one. 7.3 lifted big BFG's............ Then I learned about he adjustable oil pressure pump. How could ford F it up that bad... not an accident....... Sucks almost a great motor. Guess I need to build a 460
Ford recommends 7500 mile between oil change , best bet if you going to stay with ford, change every 3-4k miles. No need to go to amsoil , but amsoil is a good option
7500 is too much for me
That's what I'm saying. I work with a lot of guys with newer (2014 or newer) GM trucks with AFM lifters. Some of them have over 200k miles. They change their oil really often like older timers always did and none of them have had an AFM lifter problem surprisingly. It's about clean oil, not how fancy of a full synthetic you use. Get the contaminants, carbon soot, combustion byproducts, etc out of the engine. The filter isn't cleaning that stuff out of the oil. Only an oil change accomplishes that.
You should use the heavy use schedule for towing,excessive idling,hot temps, etc for all scheduled maintenance. It’s in the owners manual.
Use it for what you consider "normal". This is the trick automakers use to get you into another vehicle sooner. Short trips don't help either.
10k miles will hurt the engine and if you're towing 7-10k (weight of the truck) good luck with that.
Steep hills are going to accelerate the lifter issue.
Have a 2022 F350 with the 7.3, check engine light came on with misfire in cylinder #3. Just heard from the dealership they have to put a whole new engine in it (lifter issues). Only 25k miles on it with almost zero towing and primarily highway miles.
Bummer, I'm sure it's in my future. Stupid Ford!
I tow. Payload of 2k plus daily. City drive. Synthetic with 5k intervals engine. Trans and rear diff every 30k. Grease all zerks with oil changes. If you use your truck daily for work then have a regular maintenance interval.
What part of country you live? Interested how often you drive/tow on steep hills.
Thin oil is the problem. Thin oil is used only because of the epa/government involvement. Don’t believe me? Look at what every race car runs. None except for maybe Indy cars. Idk what they run. Better quality higher viscosity make all the difference in the world. More than one person brought me their cars that were having lifter issues and rough running. I had them come back regularly to learn the pattern. I went from 5-20 to 10-30 1040 depending on mileage and time of year and all their problems stop.
I've been wanting to buy one of these trucks for awhile. I love running a powerstroke or a Cummins, but i just can't justify spending the $$ maintaining them anymore. Gone are the days of a true, reliable diesel. However, have you thought of running lucas in it or marvel mystery oil? Might give your oil an added boost that it needs.
When your oil life monitor reaches 50% change it. Oil is cheap compared to engines, even using Amsoil every 5,000 miles you’d have to do over 100 oil changes to equal the cost of ONE new engine. I’m quite sure by 500,000 miles that engine will have had it no matter what oil you use.
It's not about using the fanciest oil, it's about changing it often and getting the contaminants out of the engine! None of these high priced boutique oils can magically remove combustion byproducts, carbon soot, etc. The filter can't do that either.
I run Redline 5w30 synthetic. Costs more but a fantastic oil. No problems.
Try Amsoil from a lot of research, Motorcraft oil is terrible. I’ve seen so many problems when people use nothing but Motorcraft it’s like the 3.5 ecoboost with people having cam phasers and timing chain problems. I have a friend who has a 2015 3.5 ecoboost and he’s ran Amsoil since day one and that truck runs flawlessly it has 150,000 miles on it at the moment. And he also has a 2018 Mustang with a 5.0 that is known for having the coyote tick. We ran Amsoil since the day he bought it and that is as quiet as can be and it currently has 50,000 miles on it.
all three brands have dry lifter vally's. VS older designs which were wet getting extra oil spray from crank.
The roller lifters and cams run in these newer engine should have much less tendency for wear than the old flat tappet lifters used for almost 100 years prior. I use Valvoline Full Synthetic 5w-30 and change it every 5000 miles in all my trucks and cars. The manufacturers seem to think thinner oil equals higher MPG.
From New information it seems like a lot of the failures were from the 300hp version and the variable oil pump wasn't creating enough pressure. Ford just discontinued that version
Crazy I know but I do my oil changes every 3, 000 to 3,500 miles
same here
When you run your truck hard everyday you should use a quality oil and change it every 3 thousand miles. It will take care of you if you take care of it.
Sorry the problem is this. We have a whole fleet of these engines in the fleet side or the customer side idle oil pressure 5 to 7 pounds too low. We just got the new software to bring it up to 30 psi at idle for the oil pressure and we brought the oil from 5:30 to 10:30 regular oil not synthetic.
What software are you talking about, Forscan?
My son has a 2017 Silverado with a 5.3 engine, it specifies a 0w-20 engine oil. Sure seems light to my thinking. He runs a full synthetic Castrol and it holds 8 quarts.
Not a bad move. Thinn oil so running high quality.
Changing the oil more often is the most important thing with the AFM engines. 5k mile oil changes is pushing it. 3k mile oil changes is best, particularly if it sees a lot of short trips in cold weather. That kind of driving causing more fuel and moisture to get into the oil and form deposits in the tiny oil passages of the AFM system.
In my opinion, it would be a complete waste of money to use a top of the line oil like Amsoil only to change it at 3000miles/5000kms
I agree. The solution is to get something more reasonable, like valvoline or penzoil, and change every 3-5k miles. But if somebody has the dough to pay for 3k service with amsoil, more power to them.
I've heard all kinds of things about the Ford gas engines they don't lubricate properly at low rpms or idle
How are those rear leaf springs since they now use less leafs due to better spring steel? My 2001 7.3 has 5 plus an overload and rides pretty smooth and the truck only drops an inch with a 6200 lbs bobcat on a short steel trailer. Anyone else here have the same approx. 1" drop with the newer springs or do more leafs need to be added to the newer trucks?
This truck squats pretty good with the bobcat
The real question Is the 7.3 better than a 6.7 diesel
I own a 6.7 deleted and a 7.3 has both in F250’s. The 7.3 at 97,000 miles is definitely less expensive to own and operate compared to the 6.7. Both pull trailers most of the time.
@@tractorben Great info, thank you.
It just depends on what you need. I got a 7.3. More people will laugh at you with the gas engine though. And you won’t get as many girls.
Bad ides to admit you towed over max weight if you ever have a claim and they see this you're screwed
The 6.0 PSD also suffered similar issues as well
6.0 was extremely hard on oil. 4000psi oil system that has to lube the injectors and run through a cooler buried in the valley so the oil easily gets too hot.
Your right!!
@fordbossme recommends Valvoline 5w30 High Mileage Full Synthetic. Really good add pack
Is that an Atlas trailer?
rotella t5 10w30 in my ford 6.8l v8
When you said over 5000 that's the problem. Change it 3,000 Oil is cheap engine is not.
True
2000 miles is the best! 3000 to 4000 is the next best and really no longer than 5000! I use Pennzoil Ultra Platnum!
I think the 6.8 Ford motor is much better because of the traditional design of a pushrod V8
6.8 is the same design as the 7.3.
All boils down to frequent oil change intervals. No more than 5K. No excessive idling. All the oil change intervals in the owner manuals are way too far apart. And it's listed for normal driving.
So you can't idle a gas engine now? Wrong buddy. Don't make excuses for Ford being retarded and cheap.
It doesn't
Amsoil and change it every 3000 miles.
You're engines must last forever!
Junk. Bring back the 6.2
Amsoil!!
Get to the point!
Run amsoil and get back to us.
Motorcraft oil filters are a poor choice also .
OEM filter is fine
@@BT62240Motorcraft filters have about the worst efficiency there is . For $4.00 what do you expect.
Really 🤔
@@kenj.8897you haven't actually compared them to anything else.
@@wakeupamerica2024they are 80% efficient at 20 microns . I can name 15 filters that are above 95 % . Like I said it's a 4 buck filter
7.3 Godzilla is an absolute dud of an engine. Makes less power than the 5.0 and gets way worse gas mileage. Ford fooled people into thinking that more displacement = more power.
If the 7.3 made over 500HP stock, I wouldn't be shitting on it. It makes 430HP/475TQ. A Ram 2500 with a 6.4 has it outclassed in power AND reliability.
All Ford had to do is make a Coyote based V8 for the F250/F350 that made more power and torque and it would have been way better.
Instead they made a pushrod engine in a failed attempt to appeal to the aftermarket, and they can't even GIVE these things away. They need the truck transmission, smaller oil pan, different intake manifold, etc to fit in a car. Then you have to bash the shit out of the transmission tunnel and possibly cut the engine bay for it to fit. Not worth the effort. All for what? To say you've got a 7.3L big block V8? No thanks.
🤔 5.0.would be better?
Lmao 🤣
Does this guy get paid by Dodge Ram?
Right it's only got 410hp and 429tq....yeah I'm shittin on that shitbox. That 7.3 will outlast the hemi 3x and I'm not even a Ford guy.
I’ve been towing an 8,000 lb trailer back and forth across the rockies with the 5.0 Coyote for the last 4 years. I recently bought the 7.3 and its no contest. The 5.0 was working to the limit, and with the 7.3 its effortless. This guy is clueless, and has zero actual experience with either engine - just another spec reading keyboard warrior.
If it doesn't require synthetic, don't use it you're looking for problems